How to cut a roof from a soft roof under a chimney. How to install a chimney penetration through roofing Roof penetration for a pipe without thermal insulation

Dear Konstantin!
I would never intervene in the dialogue if it were not for two (!) Burned down houses of my friends. One of them - burned to the ground before my eyes: the owner ran around in confusion with garden hose, pouring out a pathetic trickle of water, and red-hot drops of "non-combustible" foil rockwool fell on his hands. At the same time, a fire in the form of smoke from under the ceiling was noticed literally a minute later, and when firefighters arrived forty minutes later, they had to water the burned-out skeleton. In both cases, the clinical picture is the same: sandwich chimneys are to blame. Only in the first case they were mounted by the owner himself (although according to the instructions, but with exceptions), in the second - by professional artisans recommended in the store, who, however, merged somewhere. In both cases, I emphasize especially, everything was done according to the instructions of manufacturers and sellers.
So: in both cases, the fires did not occur at the time of the first "trial" heating, but after about a year of rather active operation. Moreover, in both cases, the fire occurred at the place where the sandwich passed through the ceiling. As it turned out, the material enveloping the inner tube tends to settle slightly. As a result, an unprotected cavity is formed at the junction of two sandwiches. And if the joint also burns out (in the first case, the owner managed to hide it in the ceiling, in the second it was a little higher), then the fire in the void between the ceilings cannot be extinguished. In the cavities of the frame with ventilated facades, the fire spreads rapidly.
In your case, I can assume that a similar problem is also possible. The burning of the inner tube, which is often (but not always) evidenced by the tint colors on the outer, is a dangerous thing. It can "go" not only along the joint, but also along the vertical seam. In addition, this may happen not in a month, but in a year, when you will already forget about all the questions asked today.
Dear Konstantin! Do you need it?

P.S. Rural firefighters then told us that almost 80% of fires are due to chimneys, and as a rule, because of sandwiches. Conclusion: you can do everything according to the instructions, but never relax.

Many thanks for the detailed answer. A few notes. In my version, not mineral wool is used, but expanded clay. And I do not see the possibility of the formation of voids, since these voids will instantly be filled from above.
The second - the passage between the floors is well insulated for me, the distance of the additional beams is about 50cm. I am interested in the passage through the roof, at a height of about 7m from the stove, where the Master Flash stands and there will be no ceilings. The design is such - Master flash, insulation and immediately sloping ceiling. Those. the thickness of the whole structure is 200mm.
And I saw the fires myself - the neighbors had three fires in 4 years. One because of the passage between the first and second floors, the other because short distance chimney outlet above the roof. None because of the passage through the roof.

A private house's own heating system usually requires the construction of a chimney. The passage of the chimney through the roof must be organized in accordance with current regulations in order to ensure the safe operation of the heating system and not impair the functionality of the roof structure.

The main difficulties of installing a chimney

The chimney is used to discharge the products of combustion of various types of fuel (gas, coal, firewood, oil products, etc.). Its laying through the roof of the house should be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, which are partially outdated. However, this document is guided by the supervisory authorities, therefore, it is necessary to follow the standards specified in it.

A chimney outlet through the roof may be required in the following cases:

• when building a new house;
• in the process of reconstruction of the roofing system in the presence of a heating unit;
• when installing an autonomous source of heat supply in an already operated building.

If the construction of a building or the reconstruction of the roof allows you to design a chimney outlet taking into account all the requirements, then installing a chimney through a finished roof will create many problems. Usually this situation arises when the owners of the house want to install a fireplace or stove in an already finished building. If we are talking about an automatic boiler, it is recommended to create a separate extension for the boiler room, or to lead the chimney through the wall of the building.

The main difficulty in installing a chimney is that the roofing cake through which the pipe passes is largely composed of materials that are not designed for close contact with very hot objects. The composition of the roofing pie includes:

• roofing;
• crate;
• counterlattice;
• waterproofing;
• rafters;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier layer;
• inner lining.

wood, bituminous and polymer materials sensitive to high temperatures, therefore, according to SNiP, the gap between the brick, concrete or ceramic chimney pipe in insulation and the elements of the roofing pie must be at least 130 mm. If the ceramic pipe is not provided with insulation, the clearance must be at least 250 mm. It should also be noted that at the point of passage through the roof, the pipe must have a special thickening - a retreat. Accordingly, in the roofing cake, it is required to make a hole of considerable size. The gap between the pipe and the roof after the installation of the flue must somehow be reliably thermally and waterproofed.

Negative consequences

A through hole in the roofing pie significantly reduces its performance and durability, because:

• violation of the integrity of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers leads to wetting of the insulation, while the thermal insulation characteristics of cotton materials deteriorate significantly;
• due to the rupture of the thermal insulation layer, the heat losses of the house increase;
• in the under-roof space, air exchange may be disturbed, which provokes the accumulation of moisture and further decay wooden elements roof structures;
• the resulting gap not only contributes to the penetration of rainwater into the building, but also the formation of snow pockets in winter;
• if the truss system is broken in the process of making the hole, then this largely affects the strength of the roof.

To avoid problems, the passage of the chimney through the roof should be equipped by building its own truss system (box) around it or by installing a standard modular chimney.

Choosing a location for the chimney

When deciding how to run the chimney through the roof, it is important to correctly determine the location of its installation. It is not recommended to run chimneys in valleys, since it is very difficult to create reliable waterproofing in these places. IN winter period snow is actively accumulating here, which can cause damage to the junction of the gas duct to the roofing and leaks. In addition, the construction of a pipe truss box at the junction of the roof slopes is very difficult.

It is not necessary to remove the chimney in the immediate vicinity of the roof windows, as carbon monoxide or smoke can be carried by a gust of wind through an open window into a residential attic room.

The optimal location for the chimney is the area near the ridge. You can mount the chimney truss box with some indentation from the ridge, or the ridge beam is sawn, and special supports are installed under its ends.

The height of the chimney pipe above the roof depends on its location. The lower the pipe is installed along the roof slope, the more it should rise relative to the roof surface. SNiP "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" contains information on the regulation of this parameter. At houses with flat roof the height of the chimney must be 500 mm. The parameters for pitched roofs vary: the height of the pipe installed within 1.5 meters from the ridge is 500 mm, if the chimney is installed at a distance of 1.5 - 3 meters from the ridge, then it should be flush with the ridge. For long distances, the height of the pipe is calculated as follows: its upper edge should be located 10 ° below the horizontal plane passing along the ridge.

According to SNiP, if a house with stove heating is attached (has a common wall) to a higher building, the chimney must be brought out of the roof of a tall building, regardless of its height and number of storeys.

When choosing a place for a chimney, it is recommended to take into account the angle of inclination of the roof slope and the climatic features of the region. A chimney located low on a slope can be destroyed when snow avalanches descend from the roof. If there is such a danger, it is advisable to mount separate snow retainers upstream of the chimney upstream of the chimney. In addition, the closer to the edge of the roof the chimney is located, the greater the likelihood of the formation of snow pockets behind it. Thus, installing the chimney closer to the ridge avoids a number of problems.

Chimney Features

For the manufacture of a chimney pipe can be used:

• metal pipe;
• asbestos-cement pipe;
• refractory brick.

For each type of pipe, a special system of passage through the roof is carried out; different kinds waterproofing, which is due to current building regulations. In addition, it is important to take into account the type of fuel used, as there is a difference in the combustion temperature of the fuel. different types.

Before developing a project on how to bring the chimney through the roof, the homeowner should decide on the type of fuel used. In accordance with SNiP, it is forbidden to install a metal chimney for stoves that are fired with wood, peat, coal. In addition, the chimneys of such furnaces must be equipped with spark arresters made of metal mesh.

Experts recommend making rectangular or square chimneys - when installing them, you can use ready-made abutment clamps that protect the junction of the roof with the pipe. Planks can be selected according to the roofing material used.

Chimney box

To properly bring the chimney through the roofing pie, you should equip your own truss system around the pipe. It must be separated from the chimney at a distance specified in SNiP. The design consists of lateral rafter legs and horizontal transverse beams from below and above, which are made of a bar of the same section as the rafters.

To insulate the structure, it is necessary to use non-combustible heat-insulating materials, such as glass wool or stone wool - it is stuffed between the pipe and the wooden structural elements.

When passing the chimney through the roofing pie of the operated roof, the vapor and waterproofing is cut crosswise, like an envelope, the edges should be tucked up and attached with nails or brackets to the rafter system.

Waterproofing the chimney on the roof requires special attention. When installing the chimney box pitched roof the vapor barrier and the waterproofing membrane are fastened as follows: the edges of the films are folded over and tightly fixed with brackets to the box, in addition, the attachment points should be additionally sealed with a sealing tape or some other adhesive material. From the outside, protective elements are mounted on top of the roofing that do not allow moisture to pass into the joints of the box with the roofing cake.

It is important to consider that the installation of the box can adversely affect the air exchange in the under-roof space. To avoid deterioration of moisture removal, additional ventilation systems can be installed, for example, ventilation tiles, roof aeration grilles, etc.

If the width of the chimney exceeds 800 mm (perpendicular to the rafters, according to the outer dimension), then a slope should be performed higher up the slope.

Razuklonka is a small private roof that drains water and snow from the pipe. Its installation is quite complicated, since all layers of insulation are part of the ramp, in addition, it should be qualitatively combined with the main roof using curly elements. To avoid mounting a slope, it is worth making a smaller pipe.

Using ready-made kits

Standard modular chimneys ("sandwich") can greatly simplify the process of passing the pipe through the roof. A wide range of materials are used for the manufacture of structures, including:

The choice of a modular chimney depends on the fuel used, as they differ significantly in their technical characteristics. The advantage of such systems is the ability to install the pipe not at a right angle. This is especially true when installing a chimney in an existing building and allows you to choose almost any place for installing a fireplace, stove or automatic boiler.

A modular chimney passes directly through the roof, consisting of such parts as:

• deflector (a device that enhances draft in the chimney by using a stream of hot air);
• clamp for stretch marks (allows you to additionally fix a high pipe on the roof);
• skirt (an element that protects the exit point of the pipe through the roof);
• roof passage (element with a fixed apron, which is directly mounted in the roofing pie).

Modular chimneys have an attractive appearance.

Steel chimneys can be installed if the temperature of the exhaust gases is not more than 500 °C. Prohibited for installation on coal-fired stoves. For asbestos-cement pipes, this parameter is 300 degrees; for coal-fired ovens, such chimneys are also unsuitable.

If the chimney is made of concrete or brick, or a prefabricated passage is installed, the structure should not be rigidly attached to the roof system. Under the influence of external factors, the roof may be deformed, and these forces will be transferred to the chimney, which may lead to its destruction. When the chimney exits through the roof, all connections between the chimney and the roof are made using flexible elements.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is an important node in the arrangement of the roof. This area is the most fire hazardous in the entire chimney system. Its design is regulated by the special requirements of SNiP. Only the unconditional fulfillment of all safety requirements will allow you to sleep peacefully or take bath procedures without worrying about the condition of the stove. The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof can be done by hand, but with full compliance with all norms and requirements.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is the most fire hazardous in the entire chimney system.

Features of the roof passage

The chimney in any building has an increased fire hazard due to the fact that it heats up to very high temperatures and, in direct contact with combustible materials, can cause them to ignite. This is especially dangerous in the presence of wooden elements. Based on this, the construction of the chimney is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 41-03-01-2003. This document should be looked at when building a new house, overhaul roof or heating system. Thus, the first requirement appears - the presence of a heat-resistant non-combustible barrier.

Tools for arranging the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof.

The second requirement is mutual temperature influence. The cold metal of the roof covering, in contact with the chimney, causes it to cool sharply, which renders the tall chimney useless and reduces draft. In turn, the heated chimney heats up the roofing material, causing its accelerated aging. To eliminate such mutual influence, it is necessary to have thermal insulation in the passage area.

Finally, when passing the pipe through the roof, the integrity of the coating is violated, where moisture will certainly rush during precipitation or snow melt. To prevent leakage, the joint must be waterproofed.

The arrangement of the chimney passage must take into account the type of pipe and the type of roof. The chimney can be of two types - a rectangular or round pipe of different sizes. This determines the transition design. When designing, it is necessary to take into account the presence of an attic, a wooden truss system and type roofing material. Passage through a metal tile or a covering from a professional flooring, differs from passage through a slate or other covering.

Choosing a place for a chimney

Figure 1. Scheme of different locations of the chimney along the roof slope.

How to properly make a chimney on the roof is schematically shown in Fig. 1. The recommended distances and heights for different pipe positions relative to the ridge are based on the following conditions: snow accumulation in winter, condensation, wind exposure. The height of the pipe increases as the exit point along the roof slope decreases. In addition, there are additional rules:

1. The pipe is not placed next to skylight and on the edge of the junction of two slopes, as a wooden beam passes under it.
2. If a higher structure is closely adjacent to the building, then the chimney must be higher than its roof. (Fig. 1. Scheme of different location of the chimney along the roof slope)

Required Tool

When arranging the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

Figure 2. The passage of a rectangular chimney.

• Bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• scissors;
• chisel;
• plane;
• putty knife;
• paint brush;
• hammer;
• mallet;
• metal ruler;
• construction level;
• roulette;
• furniture stapler.

Removing the chimney to the roof

The chimney through the roof is equipped with a roof cut with aprons made of metal (galvanized or stainless steel, copper or lead); and with the expectation of a different slope angle. The standard design of the adjacent element (groove) depends on the pipe material, pipe shape and roofing material. For rectangular pipes, ready-made parts can be purchased; and together with roofing material.

The place of passage of the pipe is also subject to heat, hydro and vapor barrier. All these layers must be separated by a non-combustible barrier from each other. To attach such a puff cake, a separate box is mounted around the chimney (Fig. 2) - rafters on the sides of the pipe and transverse beams attached to the rafters.

The connection of the vapor barrier and waterproofing film can be made by cutting them according to the “envelope” principle, while the edges are wound onto the crossbars and fixed with a stapler or nails.

Figure 3. Waterproofing the chimney passage.

Then the waterproofing is pressed by the elements of the crate, and the vapor barrier is closed with the facing material of the attic ceiling. The joints to increase the tightness are glued with adhesive tape or treated with an adhesive composition (Fig. 2. The passage of a rectangular chimney).

Additional waterproofing to protect and drain water flowing down the walls and slope is carried out for various chimneys using the same method. Figure 3 shows a diagram of the upper protective system. One edge of the waterproofing is glued to the roof, and the other to the surface of the pipe. The pipe part of the insulation is pressed against a standard metal profile, which is fixed with dowels. The upper end of the profile strip is treated with a sealant (Fig. 3. Waterproofing of the chimney passage).

Round chimney

In many buildings, most often in baths, round chimneys are widespread. Modern chimneys are produced using sandwich technology, that is, they have several layers, including insulation. The main task is to ensure the tightness of the passage through the roof. To conduct a chimney of this design is possible with standard ready-made metal penetrations, which are made of a steel sheet with a cap (apron) welded to it.

Figure 4. Passage through a metal roof.

The chimney pipe is guided through the apron, while the steel sheet is directed at an angle corresponding to the angle of the slope. A sealing "skirt" is put on over the penetration on the pipe. Additionally, you can use a heat-insulating gasket. The range of prefabricated penetrations also includes prefabricated penetrations based on rubber and silicone. The penetration should be chosen so that the inner diameter of the apron is smaller than the chimney pipe (by about 10-15%), which will allow it to be put on “in tightness”.

The penetration ring must be fully seated on the pipe until it fits snugly against the roof surface, for which you can lightly go around with a mallet. The edges of the greasy ring are processed with a sealing compound, and the sheet itself is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws in increments of 3.5-5 cm. Silicone passage parts and penetrations made of EPDM rubber have proven themselves to be the best; they have increased heat resistance and frost resistance, tolerate temperature extremes well. An important condition: the upper edge of the apron must be wound under the roofing, and the lower edge must overlap the roof.

Passage through hard roofing material

The arrangement of the passage of the chimney through a rigid corrugated roof covering - through a metal tile or a profiled sheet has its own specific features. Figure 4 shows a scheme for solving such a problem. To ensure reliable drainage of water, both flowing down the slope of the roof and rolling down the walls of the pipe, two types of aprons have to be used - lower and upper. The lower apron is installed on top of a dense draft roof, but a so-called tie is necessarily brought under it - a sheet of galvanized steel or roofing material that will ensure water drainage.

A hard roof covering (metal tile) is restored over the lower apron, and the profile elements of the upper apron (corner with bent edges) are attached on top. When laying it, one side is fixed on the tiles, and the other is attached to the chimney pipe. The upper edge of the apron is treated with a sealing compound (Fig. 4. Passage through the roof of a metal tile).

The passage of the chimney through the roof is a very important element of the arrangement of the roof. It must be carried out in full compliance with building and safety standards. In the manufacture of the passage, it is advisable to use standard ready-made passage elements that will provide the necessary reliability and safety.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof with your own hands: how to do it right (video)

How to independently arrange the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bath

In the process of building any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to bring a chimney or ventilation pipes through the roof, there is no way without it. Some owners do not attach much importance to this process, however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this article I will tell you how to independently bring pipes through the attic floor and different types of roofs.

Arrangement of the transition on the roof.

What can a bad installation lead to?

In most cases, stove makers and ventilation equipment specialists are engaged exclusively in the installation of their sector. Pipe passages through the wall, interfloor overlap and roof do not touch them. People do not want to hire a professional and take on the job themselves. As a result, after a short period of time, a whole bunch of problems can “emerge”.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately specify the moment of arranging transitions through structures.

Sometimes it’s easier to pay a little more to an experienced person than to puzzle over how it’s all right and beautiful to do with your own hands.

Transition on a soft roof.

• The materials from which chimneys are made are quite hardy, they can easily withstand temperature changes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, a brick or asbestos-cement pipe, having been saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look like it was eaten by mice;
• Again, due to high humidity, this sector from the inside will be intensively overgrown with soot. therefore, you will have to clean the chimney much more often;
• But this is not the worst. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool.. Once such a heater gets wet, it, firstly, becomes useless, and secondly, it sits down and is no longer restored. Drying cotton wool is pointless, it only needs to be changed;
• Do not forget that almost all roofs are made on the basis of wooden frame . Whatever you impregnate the wood with, but if the structures are constantly in a humid environment, then sooner or later they will begin to rot. Water sharpens a stone, what can we say about a tree;

Arrangement of a complex transition.

• There is one more moment I will explain it with an example. One of my acquaintances finished building a house in the fall and, since the weather had already begun to noticeably deteriorate, he patched up the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, in the hope that everything would be fixed in the spring.

Imagine his surprise when, on New Year's holidays, the chimney through the ceiling of which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, covered with red wet spots and the stucco molding began to fall off. And all this happened because the joint of the roof was not tight enough.

After the furnace was flooded, the snow around the pipe melted, water flowed through the pipe and completely spoiled luxurious interior, the cost of which was ten times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

It's called whatever.

Where is the best place to run pipes?

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are only repairing the roof, nothing can be changed. But at the design stage, you have the opportunity to choose the optimal location for the pipe outlet.

Any stove-maker will tell you that it is best to mount the pass-through node in the ridge. But this is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the pipe, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal traction. On the other hand, you will have to pretty tinker with the arrangement of the truss system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is a rather complicated matter.

Sandwich pipe on the roof.

The minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or load-bearing beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 should be 140 - 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to slightly move the chimney to either side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage node fluctuates around 1.5 - 3 m, then the height of the pipe can be made flush with the ridge;
• When the roof is shed or the distance from the ridge beam to the passage node is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line passing at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, below is a diagram.

Rules for the location of pipes on the roof.

The most undesirable place for installing chimney and ventilation pipes is their location in the "valley". For those who do not know, an enodic angle is called an internal corner, which is formed by connecting two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures, such an arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case where your chimney pipe passage through the roof is in the “valley”, then it is better to try to make an extra knee and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, from which most of the chimneys for boilers and bath stoves are now made, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, water will constantly attack your connecting node from three sides and sooner or later a leak will occur.

The device and scheme of docking sandwich chimneys.

Self-installation of passages through the roof or ceiling

If earlier the roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic transition block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is just under such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

Such an adapter is a multi-stage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each step on the funnel corresponds to one of the running diameters of the chimney. In order for the pipe to fit snugly, you only need to cut the adapter with scissors to the level you need.

Hermetic fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out with metal studs and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, so it easily bends around complex relief roof coverings.

Algorithm for mounting an elastic adapter for pipes.

The price for such a product is quite acceptable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, first you need to cut the cone to the desired diameter. After that, it is necessary to lubricate the place where the adapter joins the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange with a heat-resistant sealant. Then you just have to screw the flange with metal studs through the pre-drilled holes to the lower flange ring.

Bottom flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you do not like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made from the same stainless steel. They differ from the polymer counterpart in the large dimensions of the apron, a given angle of inclination of the roof and a well-defined chimney diameter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that, in addition to a heat-resistant sealant, a metal clamp is additionally used for the hermetic connection of the adapter and the pipe.

Arrangement of a passage through a metal tile

I want to immediately note that it’s quite difficult to correctly make the passage of a pipe through a metal tile without experience, therefore, after studying the instructions and viewing the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully about whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an internal main and an external decorative apron. Experienced roofers usually make the inner apron from tin or thin aluminum sheet. We have already mentioned round pipes, so further we will talk about sealing the junction of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

Location of structural elements.

The inner apron is installed directly on the crate even before laying the metal tile. The design consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts should go under the metal tile layer by at least 250 - 300 mm. It enters the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the elements of the apron along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level, parallel to the roof, a grinder cuts a strobe with a depth of 10 - 15 mm. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the elements of the apron into the strobe, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with a heat-resistant sealant. Only sealant should be filled right before installing the protective elements.

Internal apron after laying the roofing.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the side is bent at 90º to the depth of the strobe. Personally, I made it easier, I immediately inserted the sheets into the strobe and, tapping with a hammer, bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We finish the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that's not all, from below on the roof substrate under the apron, the so-called tie is wound up and fastened. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

Soft corrugated outer apron.

It should go down the substrate to the edge of the roof. The tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative lining starts to leak, water will flow down the tie under the metal tile. As a result, the roofing cake will remain dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally fixed to the pipe and roof sheathing, you can start laying the metal tile itself. At the end, a decorative apron is mounted. Each of the metal tile manufacturers produces its own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Sealing strap on the outer apron.

Such aprons, as a rule, are corrugated aluminum or lead sheet, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. From above, such an apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed on the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is desirable to additionally lubricate the joint with a heat-resistant sealant.

The upper bar of the decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron, after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped with a rubber mallet so that the corrugated sheet fits well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

The arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in approximately the same way, with the only difference being that they often do without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect the installation of the main lower apron and tie, the decorative upper apron holds, of course, well, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not very reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch that has fallen from a tree .

How to protect a wooden base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to the standards of SNiP 41-03-01-2003, the minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most “advanced” in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys when passing through structures wooden roof or wooden flooring needs to be protected.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of the bath is the most striking illustration of this topic, since the baths in our great power are usually made of wood. It is also worth adding that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to begin to char, it needs only 200ºС. And when the temperature reaches 300ºС, there is a real danger of self-ignition.

If we consider that birch firewood gives temperatures up to 500ºС, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700ºС, then the extent of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go in two ways, buy a special transition block or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling passage units (PPU). In expensive designs of this kind, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes with insulation, filler and other fittings. But as far as I have come across, our man does not want to pay money for such amenities, and in this, I agree with him.

Insulation of the box with basalt wool.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as is often the case with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instruction looks like for such an arrangement, and then I will tell you how I made the pipe pass through the ceiling of the bath with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market, you can now find special metal boxes with a hole already cut out for a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, mounting holes for self-tapping screws are made around the perimeter. But you can’t immediately mount the structure on a “bare” wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be overlaid with a non-combustible heat insulator. Most often, asbestos cloth is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in the same way so that an asbestos sheet can be fixed between them and the through hole;

Twin box made of metal and mineralite.

• From the inside, the vertical walls of the box are supposed to be lined with foil basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, of course it costs more than usual, but this is the instruction;
• Absolutely clearly, without the slightest gap, it is almost impossible to select holes in the box for the chimney, even if there is a small gap, but it will still be. Here it is supposed to be covered with heat-resistant sealant;
• Further, the space between the foiled basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and uncoated. This is enough for a non-residential attic floor, but if the bath is an attic type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the top box must be covered with a mineralite slab (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Making the passage through the attic.

Now, as I promised, I will tell you about my own experience in arranging such a transition. The bath was made a long time ago, and then these convenient devices simply did not exist. Sandwich designs at that time cost fabulous money, so an ownerless cast-iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

A square hole in the wooden ceiling was cut out so that there was at least 250 mm between the chimney and the wood in all directions. I immediately stuffed an asbestos sheet onto the vertical walls of the niche.

A three-millimeter sheet of stainless steel was hemmed from below. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although my neighbor hemmed it and is still standing.

Homemade protection option.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with an asbestos sheet and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And from above, all this economy was covered with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bath, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not have a second similar stainless steel sheet.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter screed reinforced with wire rod. Only the screed was not poured close to cast iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos cloth, otherwise, with temperature fluctuations, it would simply crack.

As you can see, you can make a passage through the roof of the chimney with your own hands. But still, if you decide to invest in a quality coating of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you carefully study the available methods first.

Chimney passage through the roof

Folding the stove is not an easy task, but properly arranging the passage of the chimney through the roof is an equally important procedure. Fire safety, as well as waterproofing of the furnace and attic floor, depend on how correctly the work is carried out.

Chimney passage through the roof

The consequences of a poorly done sealing of the chimney when it exits through the roof can be as follows:

• If the pipe is not protected from moisture, dampness will easily destroy the chimney masonry over time, penetrating into the seams and corroding the mortar, which can also lead to smoke in the attic, and in the worst case, to a fire.
• Moisture that has appeared in leaky sealed holes around the pipe, flowing down the masonry, penetrating inside the chimney, and can lead to the formation of fungus. We'll have to shift the pipe, and possibly even part of the furnace.
• Waterlogging of not only pipes, but also vapor barrier and insulation materials can lead to their rupture.
• As a result of the loss of tightness of thermal insulation, the heat loss of the building will increase.
• There may be a violation of air circulation in the attic, which will lead to a decrease in moisture exchange.
• The ingress of moisture into the cracks during temperature changes forms ice, which will expand the cracks, and destructive processes will become more active.
• Due to moisture, the entire roof structure can be broken - if it gets on the truss structure and starts to corrode it.

Dampness kills the chimney

Such a picture can occur in a pipe, with poorly sealed cracks around it. To avoid such a problem, the installation of the pipe outlet through the roof must be carried out carefully and competently.

Pipe exit through the roof

Before embarking on this process, you need to know and comply with established rules SNiP 41 - 03 - 01 - 2003. Chimney installation work will be needed in the following cases:

• during the construction of the roof;
• when repairing a roof;
• when installing a heater or building a stove.

Optimum location of the chimney on the roof

Experienced stove-makers advise placing the outlet of the pipe closer to the highest point of the roof-ridge, and it should rise above it by at least half a meter. This is convenient because less snow will accumulate in the area above the pipe, which reduces the risk of leakage when it melts.

If the pipe head is located below the roof slope, it must also be raised above the coating by at least half a meter.

It should be noted that the type of chimney and its finish is very important during this process, since there are several options for designing this node, which is important for the whole house. The removal of the head has different designs, and depends on the shape and material of which the chimney is made, the place of its exit and size. Chimney pipes can be made of metal, brick, asbestos cement or ceramics. For each type of pipe, the passage is arranged in a certain way.

The design of brick pipes output through the roof has its own type of installation. The plastered head of the pipe is sealed in a completely different way, and a ceramic or metal chimney has several methods for sealing the seams between it and the roof.

The material of the roof also plays an important role in the design of the seams around the chimney.

For different types of roofing materials, it is easy to find a special element that will help make the chimney waterproofing reliable. The main thing is to choose the right slope of this element. It is very important that the pipe be positioned in the roof opening so that the distance between it and the roof and the rafters is at least 5 - 7 cm. These gaps are filled with non-combustible insulating material, such as asbestos.

Elements for insulating round pipes

To bring out a round pipe, which can be made of metal or ceramic, you need to correctly make a hole in the roof. Around the hole, from inside the roof, it is recommended to fix, a metal sheet or a specially made metal panel with a pipe hole. If necessary, you need to add additional bars to the crate for their fastening.

Metal apron around the chimney

The roof can have different slopes, and it will depend on which insulating element, called a roof penetration, to choose for waterproofing. In construction stores, there is a large selection of various auxiliary elements designed specifically for this procedure, of different shapes and diameters.

A pipe leading through a roof with a slope will accordingly require a special sinking slope. Also, we can say that her choice will depend on the material that covers the roof. This is taken into account in order to achieve the best sealing effect.

Silicone seals for flexible penetration

Roof penetration is a pyramid, consisting of several steps. The pyramid is located on a flexible square or round flange. The entire element is made of silicone or resistant types of rubber, although sometimes one of its parts can also be made of aluminum. Due to the elasticity of these materials, the penetration is well combined with any roof, and does not react to the effects of wind or snow.

TO positive characteristics Similar products include:

• resistance to chemical and ultraviolet influences;
• resistance to temperature difference, from - 50 to + 130 degrees;
• flexibility;
• wide range of colors - they can be matched to any color of the roof;
• aesthetics, the possibility of giving completeness to the coating;
• thanks to a good fit to the roof, the penetration guarantees excellent tightness;
• the flexibility of the part makes it possible to install it on any roof slope.

Since penetrations are produced in different sizes, they must be correctly selected according to the diameter of the chimney and the slope of the roof. Dimensions are indicated on the body of the element itself.

• Direct penetration is used mainly on roofs with a slight slope, about 25 degrees, and on flat roofs.
• Corner penetration, the flange of which must be fixed at a certain angle, for example, 20 degrees, is used to seal pipes installed on roofs with a slope of more than 25 degrees.
• Universal penetration, which can be adjusted to any pipe diameter, looks like this: on each of the steps of the penetration pyramid, the diameter for which it is intended is indicated. The master only has to cut off the extra top and mount it on the pipe.

Installation of this waterproofing element is quite simple:

The installation process is simple and straightforward

After waterproofing - fastened to the roof with self-tapping screws

• if a universal version is purchased, the excess part is cut off from it;
• then the penetration is put on the pipe and pressed against the roof. If the roof is ribbed, the waterproofing should take the form of the ribs of the coating;
• then a sealant is used, with which the edges of the flange are smeared and firmly pressed against the roof;
• the last step is fixing the penetration along the flange to the roof using self-tapping screws or rivets.

In the presented photos, the process of installing waterproofing is clearly visible.

Another option for waterproofing a metal pipe can be a metal penetration, which is also sold ready-made. It has excellent characteristics, but can only be installed on a roof that does not have a relief pattern, for example, soft. Another condition necessary for a tight installation of the flange to the roof is the ideal angle of the element to the roof slope.

• Exist different models metal penetrations. On some of them, the pipe is fixed and soldered from the inside, and the upper head of the chimney is put on and welded on the outside.

Metal flange for round pipe

• There may be another option, when the pipe passes through the penetration through and a detachable metal part is fixed on top of it, which does not allow moisture to penetrate inside.
• The flange is glued to the roof with a sealant, and then screwed with self-tapping screws.

Square, rectangular tube

A brick chimney is almost always square or rectangular in shape. Passing through the attic, it is brought to the roof. Further, a hole is made in the roof, which must be framed from the inside with a metal sheet with a hole made in the middle in the shape of a pipe. Through this window, the head is also displayed on the surface of the roof. This option is convenient when removing the chimney through a frequent crate in the roof, for example, when a soft roof is being arranged.

If the crate is installed at a certain distance (for example, a slate roof), it is good if the pipe passes between the rafters. But it also happens that the pipe rests against one of the beams supporting the roof, or they are too far from the walls of the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to arrange additional details of the rafter-beam system, which will allow you to fix the heat-resistant insulation and waterproofing around the chimney.

When square tube is carried through the roof, the seams around it are sealed with non-combustible materials, and a penetration-casing made of metal cut in a special way is installed on top.

Collapsible apron for a brick chimney

The figure shows a four-piece apron, which is assembled in a simple way. Such a penetration is arranged under the roof covering, and the roofing material is laid on top of it. The cracks formed in the area where the metal adjoins the pipe and when connected to the roof are sealed with sealant.

If sealing is carried out on top of the roofing material, then it is made with a layer of soft waterproofing, consisting of a special tape, which is made on the basis of aluminum and lead. It is well fixed with a sealant on any flat surface or with a certain relief.

Rectangular pipe with finished penetration

On the pipe itself, soft waterproofing is also planted on the sealant, and fixed with special metal strips. The photo clearly shows the design of such protection.

Passing a pipe through a tile roof

Separately, I would like to say about the passage of the pipe through the tiled roof. Manufacturers have thought of a special element that repeats the relief pattern of the tiles, and has a hole arranged for the pipe. A pipe of the same material is also selected for it.

A convenient solution, but, alas, it will not work for a chimney

These elements of a tiled roof are made of highly resistant plastic. They are produced in the same colors as the tiles, and you can always choose the right shade suitable for a particular building. But such plastic roof parts are installed only for ventilation ducts, since they are unlikely to withstand the high temperatures that accompany the smoke emanating from any stove.

Security Criteria

It is impossible on the scale of one publication to cover all the options for running chimneys through the roof, and to tell about all the important tricks in these works. But, there are some things that you really need to know.

• In the construction of some roofs, there are layers of different materials that do not have pronounced fire-resistant properties. Therefore, it is very important to provide fire safety rules.

In order to secure wooden floors and other combustible materials, special boxes are built around the chimney of any shape.

The pipe is placed in a special refractory box

This option is very convenient for roofs covered with slate, tiles or other materials that have a three-dimensional pattern, as well as for soft roofs. The box is built flush with the crate, on which the roofing is laid. It must have a certain thickness in order to reliably protect the entire layer of the crate and the vapor barrier and insulation installed on it from possible overheating and fire. It is not bad if there is also a distance of about 5 - 7 cm between the chimney and fire-resistant materials.

• When purchasing a penetration, you must make sure that it is reliable and resistant to temperature changes and increased heat, and only then for waterproofing qualities.
• Very important correct installation pipes and its passage through the roof, since this is not only decorative element but also functional. We must not forget that the safety of your health and property will depend on the correct installation of this unit.
• The materials used in such work must meet the necessary requirements for this particular device. It is not possible, for example, to use ventilation pipes for exhausting smoke from heating appliances. Be sure to know the characteristics of the purchased materials, and it is better to consult a specialist if something is in doubt.

In any case, if you have never dealt with such types of work, it is not worth the risk. The best option will invite the master who performed this process more than once. It will quickly cope with the task and will not spoil the overall appearance of the roof.

Roof penetration for chimneys

One of the complex nodes in the arrangement of heating systems is the penetration of roofing for chimneys. The very process of passing the pipe through the rafter system and the roof is quite understandable, but the preparation of the opening and waterproofing works around the pipe walls require a careful approach.

Roof penetration for chimneys

Fire safety and protection of the under-roof space from moisture penetration, which can cause a lot of negative consequences, will depend on how reliably the penetration is carried out. Waterproofing of the butt joint of the chimney wall and roofing can be carried out using various materials- Elastic bands, metal aprons are used, or integrated approaches are used. Most often, masters practice precisely complex options, since in this case an extra precaution will never be superfluous.

Basic requirements of SNiP for the passage of the chimney through the roof

The basic requirements regarding the arrangement of heating systems in a private house can be found in SNiP 41-01-2003 "Ventilation, air conditioning and heating". Information on the rules for the construction of the furnace and chimney is available in the subsection " Stove heating» (6.6). Next, a small sample will be presented, relating specifically to the site of interest to us in this publication.

• Paragraph 6.6.14 says that the mouth (upper edge) of the chimneys must be protected from direct precipitation. Therefore, a deflector, an umbrella or other devices covering this hole from above are fixed on the head of the pipe, which, at the same time, should not create obstacles for the free exit of smoke.

Protective cap with mesh spark arrester

• Paragraph 6.6.15 - chimneys of solid fuel stoves (burning wood or peat), passing through roofs covered with combustible roofing material, must be equipped with spark arresters, with a metal mesh installed in them, having cells no more than 5 × 5 mm. (By the way, it is not recommended to set a grid that is too fine, less than 2 × 2 mm, as it will quickly become overgrown with soot).
• Paragraph 6.6.22 establishes the minimum distances between the outer surfaces of the walls of the chimney and elements of the truss and roof systems made of combustible materials. They must be:

For pipes made of brick (minimum thickness 120 mm) or refractory concrete (minimum thickness 60 mm), the distance must be at least 130 mm.

For ceramic pipes without external thermal insulation - 250 mm;

For ceramic chimneys with external thermal insulation made of materials with a thermal resistance of at least 0.3 m × ° C / W - 130 mm.

The space left between the pipe and combustible roofing should be covered with non-combustible material. Naturally, waterproofing of this clearance should also be provided there.

The need for high-quality penetration through the roofing

Most of the problems that may arise during the installation and operation of pipe penetration through the roofing are due to the very design of the roofing "pie", which consists of several layers.

Approximate design of the roofing "pie" of the roof.

Some insulation used for roof insulation, especially those that are most attractively priced, are made from synthetic materials (polystyrene type), and wind and vapor barriers are always films made from polymers. Add here all the wooden details of the truss system - and here you have food for an open fire. (By the way, this is a very weighty argument to use exclusively non-combustible materials for roof insulation, such as basalt mineral wool). In addition, even some roofing materials are combustible.

Obviously, it is better to follow all the established rules in order to exclude the possibility of a fire hazard. Neglecting the requirements can result in the loss of housing, and it will be even better if there is no more serious, irrevocable tragedy.

Neglect of the rules for installing chimney systems may well lead to tragic consequences.

An important condition for the safety of the roof structure is high-quality waterproofing of the junction of the coating to the pipes.

• Improperly installed waterproofing materials around the chimney can leak, which will inevitably lead to wetting of the roofing "pie" insulation. The thermal insulation characteristics of a moisture-saturated insulation are sharply reduced, and it simply ceases to perform its function. In addition, this is a direct path to the appearance of centers of debate, rot, fungus in the thickness of insulating materials and on wooden roof structures. Even a small hole formed in the roof can nullify all efforts to insulate the under-roof space.
• With poorly sealed gaps in the area where the waterproofing adjoins the walls of the chimney, moisture will definitely get into them, and when temperatures drop, ice often forms there, which will make these gaps even wider. If the leak is not eliminated in time, then damage to the attic floor is possible over time - and so on.

So, a violation of technology, poor-quality waterproofing in one area can lead to a decrease in the strength of the entire truss system, so it is difficult to overestimate the competent installation of the pipe penetration unit.

To avoid such unpleasant consequences, you must take the following steps:

• Arrange, in accordance with all requirements, the penetration of the chimney through the rafter system and roofing material.
• Carry out waterproofing work, providing protection from the penetration of atmospheric moisture.

To figure out how to carry out these activities correctly, we will consider the whole process in stages. And since the chimney pipe can be metal or brick, the arrangement of their waterproofing still has a difference. Therefore, the implementation of both options will be presented below.

Features of the implementation of the penetration of the chimney through the roof

Sealing of the junction of the roof and the chimney can be done different ways using materials that are most suitable for a particular roofing. However, it is necessary to take into account not only the type of coating, but also the shape of the chimney, the material from which it is made, as well as its location on the roof surface.

Chimney installation area

• It will be quite easy to waterproof the chimney that exits through the roof ridge, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits installation completely eliminates the risk of accumulation of snow masses over its structure. Rainwater will also not linger around its walls. This means that moisture will not actively destroy the sealing of the junction and penetrate into the layers of the roofing "pie".

Chimney located directly on the roof ridge line

• Another option for installing a chimney that does not require particularly reinforced waterproofing is the area just below the ridge. In this design, it will be most convenient to equip a protective casing from the ridge, lowering it below the chimney by 700 ÷ 800 mm and making it wider than the base by 300 ÷ 400 mm on each side.

The chimney is located in the area adjacent to the roof ridge

Having sealed the joints around the perimeter of the pipe in this way, you can be sure that water will not get under the roofing material, even if a small amount of snow collects on top of the pipe on the surface of the slope.

The protruding part of the pipe shown in the illustration, which has a jagged masonry at the bottom, is called an “otter”. It is it that is intended for additional protection of the junction area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pipe and the roofing. The upper part of the metal “apron” located on the wall is carefully cut out under each of the teeth. So the junction of the metal and the brick wall will be under the protruding bricks of the "otter", that is, under a kind of visor.

Such an additional roof element will protect the upper side of the brick chimney from rain and melt water.

• Particular reliability of the waterproofing of the joints of the pipe walls and the roof is necessary for a chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope. In this case, snow can accumulate above the chimney structure, the resulting melting of which water can penetrate under the roof at the junction. In addition, during heavy rain, streams of water will flow from the ridge, which will certainly find a weak point in poorly waterproofed joints to penetrate under the roofing material.

Therefore, quite often, protecting the chimney from melt and rainwater, roofers arrange an additional structure, shown in the illustration above. This element is fixed from the back of the chimney and has its own ridge, slopes, and forms two gutters at the joints with the main roof. This does not allow water flows to drain to the base of the pipe - they, bumping into its protruding corner, are separated, flowing down the formed gutters to the sides of the chimney walls.

With this arrangement of the chimney (right at the junction of two slopes), waterproofing will be the most difficult

• It is undesirable to allow a situation in which the chimney is located in the valley. The valley itself is a gutter, through which water flows from two adjacent slopes and from the roof ridge. If such a need arose, then you will have to work hard on the waterproofing layers. In this option, a groove will be simply necessary in order to organize the dilution of water flows from the base of the chimney pipe.

The method of waterproofing the penetration unit, depending on the roofing material

The second factor that directly affects the choice of pipe penetration waterproofing elements is the roofing material, so it is worth considering the most popular coatings today.

slate roof

Reliable waterproofing of the junction of the walls of the chimney and the slate roof is possible if the sheets of material are laid on a rigid structure of the crate, since the load from various external influences is evenly distributed on it.

It is very successful if the passing one is located between the rafter legs - it remains only to frame it with a bar at the right distance and fill this gap with non-combustible insulation

It is best if the chimney is led through the rafter system without violating the integrity of the crate, that is, into the opening between the rafters provided for and reinforced in advance along the perimeter with a beam. In any case, the rigidity of the roofing sheeting will make it possible to use a metal sheet, the so-called “tie”, for waterproofing the joints of the chimney, which can cover different-sized roof areas.

Metal "tie" going from the bottom wall of the pipe to the cornice overhang

In some cases, the sheet is laid on the crate under the roofing material from the ridge to the eaves. In other cases, from the back wall - the chimney to the cornice, and sometimes only around the pipe with entry to its walls, going down 500 ÷ 600 mm.

A special opening for the passage of the pipe, reinforced along the perimeter with a beam and made in compliance with the fire clearance provided for by SNiP.

However, the frequent installation step of the rafter legs often forces us to come up with special reinforced structures, approximately as shown in the illustration above.

This often happens in cases where the chimney penetration is formed in the finished roof. It is necessary to dismantle part of the crate, and possibly even cut out a fragment of the rafter leg. Therefore, so that the bearing capacity of the rafter system is not weakened, and the waterproofing of the pipe is reliable, an additional reinforced wooden frame is assembled around it, on which layers of the roofing “pie”, thermal insulation of the penetration, as well as waterproofing materials will be laid and fixed. At the same time, it should not be overlooked that the gaps between the walls of the chimney and the elements of the wooden frame must have dimensions determined by SNiP, which have already been mentioned.

The resulting space between these structures is filled with non-combustible material. Usually, basalt heat-resistant wool is chosen for this.

Most often, to close the junction, the so-called “apron” is used, made of metal with an anti-corrosion coating, which is fixed over the internal waterproofing of the roof and also helps to drain water from the joints. The height of the elements of the metal "apron" should be approximately 150 mm higher than the wave of the roofing. There are different designs of "aprons" specifically designed for specific roofing materials. They are sold in finished form and are a prefabricated structure. In addition, the "apron" can be made independently. But before taking on the production itself, it would be advisable to take measurements from the chimney and make a kind of paper or cardboard pattern. This will allow you to avoid mistakes (it will be easy to correct them on such a template), without damaging the material purchased for the manufacture of the “apron” parts.

tiled roof

It is convenient to waterproof the junctions to the walls of the chimney from cement-sand and ceramic tiles with special elastic self-adhesive tapes, which are made on a bitumen basis using additional layers of composite materials, sometimes with the addition of an aluminum foil layer.

In the process of waterproofing joints of square or rectangular brick pipe, the tape is mounted along the joints. At the same time, one half of it is glued to the roofing material, repeating its relief, and the second is fixed on the walls of the chimney. The upper part of the tape is fixed on the pipe with a special metal profile bar. The junction of the bar with the pipe and the places of its fastening must be treated with a heat- and moisture-resistant sealant.

Special waterproofing roofing tapes are very convenient in work.

The use of self-adhesive tapes for connections can be called the most in a simple way penetration waterproofing. They are easily cut with ordinary scissors and have excellent adhesion to roofing materials and pipe walls. Tapes are produced in a fairly wide range of sizes - their width can vary from 150 to 600 mm, so it is easy to choose the most suitable option for specific conditions for waterproofing.

The table below will step by step show the entire process of waterproofing the junction of the pipe around the perimeter - from cutting to mounting the tape on the surface.

The necessary dimensions are taken from it, which are transferred to a self-adhesive sheet.

It is necessary to take material with a margin of 50 ÷ 70 mm on each side - this allowance is necessary, since the tape will be wrapped on the side walls of the chimney.

All this can be done with ordinary large scissors.

The protective film is carefully removed from the tape, then the material is pressed against the wall and rolled with a roller.

Here it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the tape will be bent onto the back and front wall, so it is taken with a margin of 150 mm on the back side, and 40 ÷ 50 mm from the front.

The same is done with the protruding lower part of the tape.

Then, in the same way, the protruding part of the tape, laid horizontally, is cut off, that is, on the tiles.

This section of the tape should be 120 ÷ 150 mm more than the obtained parameter, they are also necessary for bending them onto the sides of the pipe.

Fixing the tape to the surfaces is carried out in the same way as when fixing the side panels.

The protruding parts of the tape are cut along the fold to the corner of the pipe and wrapped on the sides of the chimney, then pressed and rolled.

There should be a gap of about 10 mm between it and the wall.

Water, flowing down the slope of the roof, enters the formed gap, after which it separates and enters the side junctions, on which the waterproofing tape is fixed over the tiles, and then onto the roofing material laid below.

Its installation starts from the front side of the pipe.

The bar is applied to the front wall, and the desired length is marked on it. It should exceed the size of the side of the pipe by 100 mm, that is, by 50 mm on each side.

Depending on its relief, for its better adjoining to the wall, it can be slightly incised in the middle part.

The parts of the bar bent on the sides are also pressed against the walls of the pipe.

Here you need to take into account that their edges are cut at an angle, since they must match in the location of the front and rear strips.

The side profiles do not bend at the edges, their joints at the corners will be filled with sealant.

At the last stage, the fixing bar is fixed to the back wall of the pipe. It is measured and bent in the same way as the front profile, but its bent parts are superimposed on top of the side slats.

It is most convenient to work with a construction syringe.

In addition to self-adhesive tape, another method can be used to seal the junction of the tiles and the chimney, using a metal "apron". This work can also be done in different ways. One of the options for carrying out this process is presented in the instruction table below.

If it is laid under the crate waterproofing material, capable of withstanding exposure to a large amount of moisture, for example, roofing material, then the sealing of the adjunctions can be carried out in the following order.

This “surplus” is necessary for bending it onto the front and back walls.

A wooden crate is mounted on top of the waterproofing, the timber of which will press the roofing material against the wall and hold it until the next steps.

The step of the crate depends on the type of tiles chosen for laying.

For this, an additional beam is fixed in the front and rear of the chimney.

It is glued along the inner edge of the waterproofing material, in this case roofing material, and pressed tightly against the wall of the chimney.

The upper line of its fastening should be 150 mm above the relief of the roofing material.

Having determined this level, using it, using an angle grinder (“grinder”) with an installed circle on the stone, a streak is cut out to fill the upper curved shelf of the metal “apron” strips into it.

The depth of the streak should be at least 15 mm, and the width should be 3 ÷ 5 mm.

Having reached the chimney, if necessary, the tiles are trimmed and fixed around the chimney at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from the wall surface.

Fixing the parts starts from the front side of the chimney.

The front bar of the "apron" is installed in the top shelf, bent at a right angle, then fixed to the wall of the chimney with dowels.

This picture shows the design of this element, which clearly shows that the upper edge of the bar has a fold (shelf) designed for installation in a groove cut out on the pipe wall.

The lower horizontal part of the bar also has a fold along the outer edge. It is necessary to keep the collected water within the junction bar so that it does not splash onto the adjacent roofing on the sides.

The front and side strips can be connected to each other in different ways, depending on the fastening provided. In this case, these elements of the "apron", which have bends at the ends, are interconnected by rolling.

Sometimes additional riveting of metal strips is also used.

Pay attention to the extended rim between the back and side slats - from, as it were, it throws water flowing down from the ridge in the direction of the pipe to the “periphery” of the apron,

Naturally, its upper edge must also be sealed in a slotted streak - by analogy with other details of the apron.

Such a “bending” will reliably protect the pipe from the penetration of water flowing from the overlying section of the roof.

It should be noted that the waterproofing methods described in the presented tables can also be used in combination with other relief roofing.

Soft tiles

Self-adhesive roofing tape is a good choice for sealing the joints of a chimney and a soft roof.

When laying this material on the roof, its connection to the chimney is arranged in the same way as when using other types of tiles. But, instead of a self-adhesive tape, a special cloth is also provided for soft blood, called a valley carpet, with the help of which various joints of this coating are sealed. Such carpets are produced in various color schemes, which, if necessary, gives the junction nodes a proper decorative effect.

Valley carpets are produced in various colors.

Sometimes instead of this canvas, a cornice-ridge or ordinary flexible tile, the edges of which are brought into the masonry during the construction of the chimney.

An example of a pattern for cutting out details for a waterproofing apron from a valley carpet is shown in the illustration. In this case, L is the length and H is the width of the pipe. A similar template can be fitted to a chimney having any perimeter.

An example of a pattern for preparing details of an apron from a flexible valley waterproofing sheet

Some roofers prefer to fit the material in place, much like self-adhesive roofing tape does.

Gluing parts of the apron cut from the valley carpet

If a valley carpet is chosen for waterproofing the junction, then it is glued to the chimney wall on bituminous mastic, and then additionally fixed along the upper edge with a metal bar screwed to the surface with dowels.

Additional fastening of the waterproofing apron with metal profile strips

The profile is equipped with a small bend passing along its lower edge. This small gutter will further assist in draining rainwater away from the surface of the pipe wall.

Roofing from metal tiles and corrugated board

The roof, covered with profiled metal sheets, at the junction with the walls of the chimney is sealed with a metal "apron", consisting of two layers - inner and outer. They are mounted in a certain sequence, similar to the processes of waterproofing adjoinings already described above in the article when using other roofing coverings.

Schematic diagram of the sealing of the junction of a pipe on a roof made of corrugated board or metal tiles

The process of arranging penetration in a similar way is carried out in the following sequence:

• A steel sheet with a thickness of 0.5 ÷ 1.0 mm is laid and fixed on the reinforced frame of the crate around the chimney, with sides 8 ÷ 10 mm high at the edges - flanging. A sheet called a "tie" must necessarily have an anti-corrosion coating. The sheet is laid up to the eaves of the roof, so that the water, flowing down it, falls immediately into the gutter.

The “tie” in its part descending to the cornice can not be made for the entire width of the chimney - a kind of “channel” is made by flanging, through which the infiltrated water will drain into the gutter

In some cases, for arranging a “tie”, a structure is used that does not consist of a single sheet, but of two metal strips, with flanging on both sides. They are placed on the sides of the chimney (or even on only one side, as in the first illustration in this section) and are also directed to the eaves into the gutter.

• Further, according to the markup, a cut is made to install the internal wall profile of the “apron”. The size of the recess must be at least 15 mm. The wall profile should have a side bent at an angle of approximately 30 degrees along the lower edge of the horizontal part. This design is provided to direct the flow of water and the impossibility of its exit beyond the profile.

• The next step is to clear the dust and fill it with a sealing compound.
• Further, wall profiles are installed on top of the “tie” in the groove around the entire perimeter of the pipe. They should fit snugly against the walls of the chimney. Joints of individual parts are sealed. Sometimes, with a well-cut reamer, such a design may also have one joint located on the front wall of the pipe, and in this case the connection overlaps by 120 ÷ 150 mm.
• Having completed the installation of the inner part of the "apron", roofing is laid on the slopes. The corrugated board is laid around the pipe on top of the horizontal shelves of the inner "apron" and the "tie" fixed on the crate.
• Then, on top of the roofing sheets, the outer part of the decorative and waterproofing parts is mounted. They are fixed according to the same principle as the internal parts of the "apron".

The outer bar of the apron - in fact, this is an ordinary metal tint

The upper edge of the outer strips can be fixed to the sealant without the use of a chisel, but it is still safer for them to also cut the chisel. This point will depend on the design features of the adjoining parts. All joints of individual elements must be treated with sealant.

It is necessary to give a note that instead of the inner metal part of the "apron", an elastic band, which has already been discussed above, can be used. Mounting such an elastic "apron" is still much easier.

Waterproofing round chimney and ventilation pipes

Since the waterproofing technologies described above apply only to square or rectangular chimneys, you should also remember about the ways to seal the gaps left near round pipes.

It should be noted right away that sandwich pipes are selected for round chimneys, which are more reliable in terms of fire safety. But, despite this quality, they are still additionally thermally insulated when passing through the attic floor and the roofing "pie" of the truss system.

Despite the layer of insulation in the design of the sandwich pipe, additional thermal insulation is still performed when it passes through the ceilings.

To insulate combustible materials around the chimneys, the same basalt mineral wool is used, laid at least 130 mm thick in the gap left.

Turnkey solution - conical roof passage assembly made of stainless steel

To seal round chimneys and ventilation pipes, it is easiest to use ready-made penetrations, which can be made of metal or heat-resistant elastic material.

The steel version of the penetration consists of two sections - this is the junction with the roof and the “apron”-cap, through which the chimney goes out into the street.

The penetration, made of an elastic material, consists of a cap and a metal (aluminum or lead) hoop, which can take the form of a roofing relief. This option is convenient because it does not need to be selected according to the angle of the pipe relative to the roof slope, since its “apron” is elastic and can be adjusted to the steepness of the roof.

In contrast, steel penetration will have to be selected depending on the slope of the roof slope, but it looks more durable and reliable. Elastic types of cutting are most often used for ventilation pipes. Their apron tightly fits the pipe and is additionally pressed against it with a clamp with a heat-resistant elastic gasket.

Elastic "master flash" for sealing pipe penetration through the roof

A penetration with an elastic "apron" can be used to seal pipes installed on roofs with a coating that has a sufficiently deep relief, such as, for example, metal tiles. The penetration, before fixing it on the roof, at the points of contact with the roofing material is covered with a sealant, which will eliminate the risk of water seeping under it.

The illustrated instructions for installing the "master flash" are so simple and clear that they probably do not need any explanation.

Fixing the "apron" on the roof surface is usually carried out using roofing screws which are equipped with neoprene or rubber gaskets.

Similar nodes for sealing pipe penetration can be picked up in the store

Some flexible penetrations that have a flexible lead or aluminum ring for roof mounting already have an adhesive layer covered with a protective film that is removed before installation. This option is more effective, as it gives a high-quality adjoining penetration to the roofing.

By the way, elastic "aprons" - penetrations ("master flash") can be matched to any color of the roof, as they are produced in a wide range of shades.

In conclusion, it should be noted that it is necessary to know the technology of the process of waterproofing adjoining and thermal insulation of roofing parts from chimneys. But in the absence of practical experience in such work, in order to ensure fire safety at home, it is still recommended to entrust their implementation to specialists.

However, in some cases, you can use your own ingenuity, especially in situations where the use of ready-made solutions or special materials is impossible or inappropriate. Two such examples are placed in a separate section of the publication. Perhaps they look controversial - well, the author will only be happy to hear constructive criticism.

Sealing the junction of the roof to the pipe "folk methods"

A. Spied on the Internet

In this subsection, a video will simply be shown in which the master shows the old "grandfather" method of reliable and durable insulation (moreover, heat-resistant) of the gap between the metal pipe and the roofing. It does not pretend to be aesthetic, but for outbuildings it may well be used.

B. From personal experience- made by hand

The situation is the following. The boiler room was covered with slate, which for a long time (the house is already under 60 years old) fell into final disrepair - burst, crumbled. In a word, wet stains appeared on the ceiling in the boiler room. The ceiling is adobe, thick (almost 300 mm), supported by beams of logs. Below, in the boiler room, the surface of the ceiling is plastered and whitewashed. And on top of the barely peeking out beams, the very aged slate was laid (one wants to say - “thrown”, because there was no crate).

The solution is unequivocal - to change the roof. And so he did - he removed all the slate, built up the protruding parts of the beams with a beam (to also get an additional canopy), mounted the crate from the board and laid the roofing corrugated board.

It turned out something like this:

You can see the entrance to the boiler room with a visor, a new roof. In the background is a chimney.

From the same point, but a slightly different angle - the continuation of the roof of the boiler room to create a canopy for household needs

Well, now - the main thing: a view from the side of the garden, on which the location of the pipes is clearly visible. There are two of them - a chimney gas boiler(radical type, with a good rectangular section of the channel, which made it possible to simultaneously connect to it also geyser). And nearby, as expected, a round asbestos-concrete ventilation pipe of the boiler room.

View of the roof of the boiler house from the side of the site - the relative position of the pipes is clearly visible.

And now - attention, let's bring the node of the passage of pipes through the roof a little closer.

And so noticeable is the picture that "drew" after the new roof was laid

Once upon a time, the owners didn’t bother much - they simply poured concrete mortar over the slate with a hump around both pipes (it can be seen that the pipes are located very close, with a clearance of only 70 mm). The solution, I must say, turned out to be very solid - after breaking out the old slate around the pipes, everything remained intact, and something like a visor was even preserved on the left side. It turned out well - under it it was possible to launch one wave of corrugated board.

But from those other sides, the situation is more complicated: between the concrete "hump" and the new flooring, a gap of about 10-15 mm turned out. On the front side - the cliff turned out to be almost sheer, on the right - a smoother level transition. And on the back side, this concrete outgrowth borders on the old gable tide (made of roofing iron), but a gap of about 5-8 mm appeared between them.

In a word, all four sides are different. And how to approach their waterproofing so that it is effective in all areas? I don’t want to fill up with concrete mortar - I don’t want to use thin corrugated board, and such “waterproofing” will not hold on it, and a gap will definitely appear between the old and new concrete layer. Obviously, some kind of elastic "skirt" is needed, going from the walls of the pipes to the roof, which could also play the role of "patches" in the areas of a smooth transition (to the right and behind the pipe).

The idea, to be honest, was prompted to me, it seemed good. In the course of work, it was also supplemented already independently.

The point is the following - to make a “skirt” from fiberglass, and then, for starters, impregnate it with liquid glass.

Prior to the start of work, it was planned to conduct a “photo report” literally step by step. However, reality made its own adjustments - where I simply forgot in the heat of activity, and where the operations were so “dirty” that I didn’t want to pick up a smartphone once again. I will try to explain with those pictures that were nevertheless filmed.

The skirt was fixed to the vertical sections of the chimney pipe (on the left and along the front) with metal strips, with entry into the slotted grooves. For these strips, an old aluminum cover from a washing machine was cut.

Starting materials: an old cover for cutting pressure plates and a piece of fiberglass.

A good piece of fiberglass has been in my stash since the "Soviet times". In the picture - these are already the remains, after cutting pieces of the "skirt".

In total, three pressure strips were used: two of them - on the vertical walls of the chimney, and one - on the descent from the "hump" from the side of the ventilation pipe. The strips were wrapped around the edge of the fiberglass and fixed in place with dowel-nails. The “hem of the skirt” on the sides covered one whole wave of corrugated board, and from the front, lay 200 mm on it. From the back, a piece of fabric was simply covered - it lay down both on the ebb and on the wall of the pipe. All fragments are laid with a very good overlap - 100÷150 millimeters. The canvas “fitted into place” very well, but so far it has only “rinsed” in the wind.

The next step is to impregnate the resulting "skirt" with liquid glass. Here it is, shown in the photo. The tool is an ordinary wide brush.

For a full cycle of work, such a bucket was not enough - I had to buy another one

From the very first time, liquid glass impregnated the fiberglass well, and it lay perfectly - with an exact repetition of the entire relief on both concrete and metal surfaces. All overlaps of fabric are securely glued together. After such a primary treatment, I corrected where necessary the folds on the already adherent “skirt”, and left the whole thing to harden until tomorrow. The walls of the pipes also turned out to be primed with liquid glass above the "skirt" to a height of about 50 - 70 mm.

To be honest, I did not spare the silicate, so that even between the waves of the corrugated board, streaks ran. This does not bother me - the side is not front, the slope is small: if you want, you won’t see it from the ground, and the corrugated board is not painted, but simply galvanized.

The next day began with a revision - what happened. And it turned out well - the "skirt" turned into a hard "crust" of the desired shape. But this, of course, is very little.

Therefore, the next step was as follows - with one hand he again applied liquid glass abundantly with a brush, and with the second - he covered this matter with dry cement, even rubbing it a little into the surface. Then - again a day to dry.

The third day is an exact repetition of the previous one. According to the already formed dense crust (it was practically not pressed through with the force of a finger), for greater reliability, another layer of liquid glass. (The first jar was no longer enough - I had to buy another one). And on top - again dry cement. It seizes very quickly with silicate glue, turning into “armor”, and fiberglass has already turned into just a reinforcing frame.

Further, there was a two-day exposure (not for technological reasons, but simply for personal reasons). Well, then, making sure that the resulting overlap turned into stone, I decided to generously coat all surfaces from above with a thick layer of rubber-bitumen mastic.

Here it is - this mastic, especially for waterproofing work

Mastic is very thick, so I had to dilute it a little with white spirit. Even after that, it was a little hard to apply, but I didn’t make it any thinner.

The picture after two treatments "liquid glass + cement" turned out something like this:

Armored crust - but at first it was just fiberglass.

The arrows show the already almost invisible clamping bars that once held the fiberglass. Now they, for sure, no longer play any role - a monolithic shell has turned out, covering this entire block of pipes from all sides. Including - and behind: there was no gap between the ebb and the completed sealing.

There was a gap between the gable tide and the old roof. Now it is completely closed with a slope for free flow of water onto the corrugated board

He began to apply mastic - and it was not there. The surface is dusty (he poured a lot of cement), there are not many hard small “pebbles”, and this causes the brush to clog, and the mastic itself rolls into lumps. That's not how things will work.

The beginning of applying rubber-bitumen mastic is not very successful so far

The way out is simple - liquid glass is still left, diluted it with some water about 1: 1, and moistened all surfaces very abundantly. Left to dry. The days were hot, and the next day everything was ready.

Now we have got a real “armor”, not dusty, almost glassy structure. The mastic laid down on it superbly - in a thick dense layer, filling all the bumps. Mastic also did not spare.

The last phase of work is the application of mastic in a uniform thick thick layer

There was an idea - to let the mastic dry, and then sprinkle it with dust from above (just from the ground). I didn’t have time - the wind that rose the next day did it for me on its own. A lot of dry cement remained on the roof between the waves (at one time it was just too lazy to sweep), and it covered the bitumen from above with a “noble patina”.

Two days later, I tested it - I poured this waterproofing assembly from a hose. Moreover, he experimented with both pressure and jet - he “modeled” from “light rain” (at first) to “rainstorm”. And in the end - I took a chance, tried a pressure jet in general - everything is holding up perfectly, there are no changes on the surface of this “armored cap”, and not the slightest sign of a leak in the boiler room!

Since then, a month has passed, during which a week of uninterrupted autumn rains has fallen. So far, the rating is "excellent". I am waiting for the winter, and I hope for a successful completion of the experiment ...

Probably, it may seem to many that all this has been done for a very long time. In terms of time, the whole process, yes, stretched out for 5 days, but in reality the work took 15-20 minutes every day (not counting, of course, the first day when the “skirt” was installed - it took an hour and a half). So no excessive effort and labor-intensive operations. And at the cost of materials - you can see for yourself, everything is from the category of completely accessible to everyone.

Roof penetration for chimneys - for different types pipes and roofs

Roof penetration for chimneys is the most important unit that provides both fire safety and waterproofing. For different types of roofs - your approach

Most stove builders will surely agree that installing a chimney on a roof is one of the most difficult jobs. In addition to professionalism, the implementation of this process requires: the ability to correctly calculate and determine the place for installing the pipe, understanding how the roofing pie is arranged and knowledge of the basic requirements regulated by GOST and SNiP.

You will also need to take care that the installation and fastening of the chimney to the roof is done in such a way that it can withstand the wind load. This raises several important questions:

• How to bring a chimney through the roof?
• What should be considered when using a metal chimney?
• How is waterproofing and thermal insulation of a roofing pie performed?
• Do SNiP and GOST regulate what height of the chimney above the roof is required?
• How to make a cut, and with what materials can a chimney be lined?

How to bring a brick chimney through the roof

1. Planning - even with a “spontaneous” repair, there should still be a time when you should stop and think: where exactly the stove will be located, how the smoke exhaust system will be made. Where will the chimney go on the roof? The calculation will make it possible to calculate what height of the chimney above the roof will be sufficient to provide the necessary traction.
2. Pipe location- exists general rule, how better pipe blown by the wind, the stronger the draft in the furnace. The chimney, following this, they try to place as close as possible to the center of the roof - to the ridge. The height above the ridge depends on how far the pipe is from it.
3. Sealing and insulating the chimney on the roof- a single-layer metal chimney can become hot during intense combustion, the brick does not heat up so intensively, but it still requires the use of thermal insulation at the place where the roofing pie passes. The outlet through the roof of the chimney must be carefully insulated so that moisture does not pass through the opening.

There are certain norms that regulate what should be the gap between the chimney and the roof. According to SNiP, the distance to hot materials from the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

The passage of a metal chimney through the roof

1. After installing the chimney, the integrity of the roof must not be lost, in other words, it is necessary to avoid a situation in which, after the first rain, the roof will leak. Often the water runs straight down installed chimney. At the same time, the waterproofing of a chimney on a slate roof differs significantly from how the same operation is performed on a metal tile or soft bituminous roof.
2. A single-layer metal chimney gets very hot, so it is necessary to install a heat-insulating barrier or duct.

For chimneys made of different materials, there is a solution to this problem. Namely:

• Waterproofing a brick chimney - a special plate is used for it. For slate roof you will need to make a special pedestal around the chimney. A plate is laid on top of it on a sealant for sealing.
• Pipe box - used if the roof is made using a roofing cake. The fact is that violation of the integrity of the cake leads to the loss of waterproofing and heat-insulating properties. To avoid this, a special box is made. The design surrounds the chimney along the perimeter and a special heat-insulating composition is poured into it.
• Pipe protection on the roof can be done with a special insulating apron. The advantage of the apron is that it completely repeats the bends of the roofing material and fits snugly, protecting it from moisture. The apron is a rubber seal made of durable and weather-resistant material.
• Installing roofing around a round chimney is best solution. In this case, the laying of the material is carried out according to a completely finished structure. This allows you to narrow the required opening. For a roof made of metal tiles or corrugated board, the chimney hole can be made larger than the pipe diameter by only 0.5-1 cm.

The cutting of the roof must be carried out taking into account the material from which it is made, as well as specifications chimney.

What is the height of the chimney from the ridge

• Installation of the chimney at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge. The edge of the chimney must protrude above the top of the roof by at least 0.5 m.
• The remoteness of the pipe outlet is 1.5-3 m from the ridge - the elevation above the roof will be optimal so that the chimney is approximately flush with the ridge.
• More than 3 meters from the ridge - the chimney must be 10 degrees lower than the ridge.

To increase traction, pipe heads are used. The head splits the air flow, directing it in two directions (down and up the pipe), thus, the thrust increases by 15-20%. The distance from the chimney to the ridge is an important requirement related to the safe operation of furnace equipment.

It is not possible to fix the chimney on the roof, its stability depends on the fixation at the bottom when passing through the attic. Usually, brackets are used for these purposes, with which a metal chimney is rigidly screwed to wooden beams and rafters.

How to fix a chimney on a roof

In most cases, cutting the roof can be done using ready-made structures that can be purchased at any building supermarket.

How to cut a chimney on a roof

The operated roof should be handled by a professional construction team, the rest of the work can be done independently.

Practice has shown that driving for a chimney through metal roof from corrugated board is best done using a lead apron worn on the roof cutting. The advantage of this solution is that the lead is soft and pliable, which allows it to completely follow the shape of the roofing material.

The framing of the adjoining is done with a hammer. With gentle tapping, you can give the apron the desired shape. After that, the cutting is removed and abundantly smeared with special silicone. The upper part of the apron is laid under a sheet of roofing material.

The device of a soft roof around the chimney can also be carried out using a similar design or a special rubber insert.

It is possible to solve the problem of junction using other methods of laying a metal pipe, namely its lateral exit from the room.

The interface between the chimney and the metal roof also consists of an apron, but in this case the apron is made not of lead, but of galvanized metal, painted in the color of the roof.

Most metal tile manufacturers will also blow out chimney structures. The exit node through the roof from ondulin is also sold ready-made. The apron of the product completely repeats the bending of the wave of the material. After installation, the apron is covered with sheets and then insulated with self-adhesive tape.

Additionally, it is recommended to use the following materials for cutting:

The easiest way to carry out the output of a metal sandwich chimney chimney of circular cross section through the roof. The surface of the sandwich pipe practically does not heat up, and in the place where the floor slabs and the roof pass, you will need to install a conventional sleeve.

Roof chimney lining

is an extremely responsible task in itself, requiring special accuracy, sequence of actions, and strict adherence to the developed technological recommendations. Whatever material is used to cover the roof, it must ultimately provide one hundred percent protection of the building from the destructive effects of precipitation.

One of the most vulnerable in terms of possible water penetration and difficult to install nodes is the adjoining of the roof to the chimney or ventilation pipe. The durability of the truss system, the attic floor, and often even the finishes in the house itself, directly depends on how well such areas will be sealed. Therefore, it is very important to treat this stage of roofing work with special attention and accuracy.

Features of the arrangement of the passage of the chimney through the roof

A high-quality adjoining of the roofing material to the pipe can only be done if the roof has a reliable rigid crate corresponding to the type of roof and the steepness of the slopes, on which the load will be evenly distributed both from the mass of the roof system itself and from external influences.

• The best option is when the chimney is installed even before the arrangement of the crate. That is, in most construction of the rafter system, a passage is provided for it, reinforced with additional details. In such cases, it will be much easier to connect sheet or piece roofing material to the pipe than in those when it is necessary to organize a passage for the newly erected pipe in the finished crate.
• If the pipe is installed later, then in order to make room for the passage of the chimney, it will be necessary to dismantle some elements of the crate, which may well weaken the overall structure.
• It is also necessary to foresee in advance that the pipe does not fall on the rafter leg, since its partial or complete dismantling is a highly undesirable operation. If the pipe still falls on one of the rafters, and part of it has to be removed, then before carrying out this process, it is necessary to immediately install retaining posts under the remaining parts, which are fixed to the floor beams. In addition, most often you also have to connect parts of this leg with whole rafters, horizontal lintels.
• Whatever option neither considered, around the chimney, it is imperative to equip an additional reliable frame, which must be firmly connected to other elements of the rafter system and roof sheathing.

Prices for chimney pipes

flue pipe

• Gap between chimney and elements of the truss system is regulated by the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003, paragraph 6.6.22. It states that the distance from the surfaces of concrete and brick chimneys to any parts of the truss system and roofing "pie" made of combustible material should be no less than 130 mm. From ceramic pipes that do not have insulation, this clearance must be at least 250 mm, and in the presence of thermal insulation - also at least 130 mm.

Remaining not closed space between the pipe and combustible or even low-combustible roof coverings, only completely non-combustible materials (usually sheet metal is used for these purposes).

The design of the junctions of the roofing to the pipe

When a reliable basis for arranging the adjoining of the roofing material to the chimney is ready, you can proceed to the installation of the coating sealing elements.

The design of the system for adjoining the coating to the pipe may be different, depending on the selected roofing material. The functions that are assigned to the elements included in the junction design are sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as the removal and redirection of water flows flowing from the roof ridge to the pipe from above.

The scheme for arranging such an junction should ideally be determined even when drafting the truss system and roofing. The fact is that some options involve the installation of individual structural parts before laying the roofing.

In addition to the type of roof chosen to cover the roof, the location of the chimney, its shape, and the material from which it is made should also be taken into account when drafting the project.

Professional builders usually recommend that only ready-made structures, which are produced by roofing manufacturers, be used for arranging junctions. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these parts on their own.

It should be noted that the chimney pipe passing through the roof directly on the ridge line of the roof is the easiest to seal. With this arrangement, water during rain, as well as snow drifts in winter, are not able to accumulate above the back wall of the pipe, which minimizes the risk of roof leakage in this, perhaps, the most vulnerable junction.

It will not be difficult to equip a reliable connection of the roofing material to the chimney, which is located in close proximity to the ridge line, that is, almost immediately behind the ridge element. A very small space is also obtained above the pipe, which does not allow the accumulation of snow and water.

But to perform high-quality sealing of the chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope is much more difficult. In this case, waterproofing must be especially reliable. Therefore, quite often, and especially, for example, when the roof is covered with soft bituminous roofing, it is necessary to equip an additional pitched structure– as shown in the illustration above. Such a special break in the roof will dilute water flows, directing them along the side walls of the pipe. Such protective extensions to the pipe are usually called grooves.

And, of course, the most difficult thing is to qualitatively equip the junction around the chimney, which falls on the middle or lower part of the valley. The pipe in this case will be in the path of pronouncedly directed flows of water, which, during rain or snowmelt, will flow into the chute of the junction of the slopes. In this case, it is extremely important to reliably seal not only the back side of the pipe, but also its side lines. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to try very hard to avoid such a location of the pipe.

Now, in order to answer the most popular questions that arise in the process of arranging this roof assembly, it is necessary to consider several options for sealing pipe passages through the roof.

Sealing passages of round pipes

As you know, stoves and fireplaces in recent years are increasingly equipped with round chimneys of different diameters. Modern metal chimney pipes most often represent a "sandwich construction", that is, they consist of three layers - two metal cylinders, external and internal, and a layer of thermal insulation between them. As a thermal insulation, as a rule, basalt-based mineral wool is used.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Manufacturers have provided for sealing the adjoining of such round pipes to the roofing with special elements - penetrations. These parts can be made of metal or of an elastic, heat-resistant composite material, which is mounted in combination with metal elements.

In principle, according to the same principle, a hermetic adjoining of the roof is also arranged for ventilation pipes.

Metal penetration for round pipes

Variants of finished metal products for arranging the adjoining of the roof to round pipes usually consist of two parts. This is an apron cap and the so-called "sole", which is a rigid base and made of steel sheet, on which the cap is fixed by the manufacturer. Metal penetrations differ from each other in the angle of inclination of the lower plate of the structure with respect to the cap, therefore, are selected depending on the slope of the roof. As a rule, in specialized stores you can always find the right version of the products, since they are produced for roof slopes of various slope slopes.

The upper part of the hood, before mounting the structure on the roof, is cut off to the diameter of the chimney pipe, since it must pass freely through the opening of the hood. Then, the “sole” is rigidly fixed to the roof surface with the help of roofing screws, on which sealing elastic gaskets made of rubber or neoprene are put on.

Very often, when installing a metal penetration on a relief roofing, to enhance the sealing of the abutment, a metal sheet is fixed above the pipe, which is brought under the ridge element and fixed overlay on the upper side of the “sole” of the penetration.

After the sole is fixed on the roof surface, and the pipe is passed through the penetration, the upper edge of the cap is pressed against the chimney using a special clamp, in which a heat-resistant elastic gasket is installed. This element will protect the junction of two elements from moisture ingress into it.

Ready elastic penetrations

As mentioned above, in addition to metal penetrations, you can also find elastic ones on sale, equipped in the lower part with a sole made of soft flexible metal, such as lead or aluminum. Through this plastic, but retaining the gasket given to it, framing the "sole" of the penetration, it is fixed to the crate, through the surface of the roofing material. The cap itself is made of weather-resistant elastic rubber, and tightly covers the pipe around the circumference, especially since it is usually also “caught” with a metal clamp.

Slate prices

The advantage of elastic penetrations lies in their versatility, as they can be installed on slopes that are built at any slope. Due to the flexibility of the combined penetration base, the sole is easy to shape the relief of the roofing material.

Such flexible penetrations for round pipes are often referred to as "master flash". There is no shortage of such products in our time. And installation is very simple, and available to any owner of the house.

Video: installation of an elastic penetration for a master flash chimney

Sealing the junction of the roof to the round pipe using aluminum or lead tape

In cases where, for some reason, it is not possible to use ready-made penetrations for sealing pipe passages, a special self-adhesive aluminum or lead tape can be used to perform these works. Due to the flexibility, heat resistance and versatility of this material, you can use it to form a penetration yourself.

Pieces of tape are pasted over the vertical part of the pipe with the transition to the roofing. And then the tape is fixed around the chimney - in this way, sealed abutment joint.

This material is highly resistant to various external negative influences: high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, to moisture, ultraviolet radiation,

In order for the tape to provide high-quality waterproofing of the junction, and the sealing to last as long as possible, the tape must be glued to a clean, fat-free and dried surface of both pipes and roofs.

Options for sealing the junction of the roof to pipes of rectangular or square section

For arranging abutment around pipes having a rectangular or square cross section (most often brick), ready-made standard systems manufactured by roofing manufacturers are also used. In this regard, when purchasing this or that roofing material, you can immediately buy or order a set of penetration parts for a brick or concrete chimney for specific sizes.

This standard sheet metal version can be used for roofing materials such as, profiled sheet, as well as the familiar slate of the old and new modifications. For these coatings, the joint sealing scheme shown below is usually used.

So, before roofing sheets are fixed on the frame of the crate, preparatory work is carried out, which includes the following steps.

• Additional crate bars are fixed around the pipe, their cross-sectional size can be the same as that of other crate elements.
• Then, from the front wall of the pipe down to the eaves of the roof is fixed, so-called"tie", equipped flanging on both sides. The tie is usually made from galvanized sheet metal.
• Further, around the pipe, on top of the “tie”, a wall profile is laid and fixed. Its upper edge, which has a bend in the opposite direction with a size of 8 ÷ 10 mm, is inserted into a pre-cut groove on the chimney wall.
• Then, at this junction of the wall apron and the pipe wall, it is imperative to apply a weather-resistant sealant, that is, intended for external work.
• The next step is the installation of roofing material.
• The final stage is the installation and fixing of the external wall profile - an apron, consisting of four elements, installed on all sides of the pipe. These parts of the apron are screwed to the walls of the chimney, and are also fastened together at its corners.

One more, more modern version abutment sealing involves the use of self-adhesive waterproofing lead tape, which is convenient for use on both flat and any relief roofing.

When using such a tape, it must be fixed on the surfaces of the pipe walls with the help of special clamping metal strips, which can be made independently. The upper joint of the strips with the pipe walls must be additionally covered with a layer of weather-resistant sealant.

Flexible waterproofing self-adhesive tape is perfect for sealing the abutment of roofing coverings with high enough embossed pattern, as it easily takes its shape when pasted and retains it. Such a tape is very often used to close joints if the roof is covered ceramic tiles, slate or ondulin.

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Sealing the adjoining ondulin roof to a brick chimney - step by step

It has already been said above that many manufacturers of roofing materials tend to accompany their products with proprietary systems for sealing pipe passages. One example is the design system for adjoining the pipe to the wavy cellulose-bitumen roofing material ondulin, which is quite popular in our time.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	In this case, a variant of arranging the adjoining of a roof covered with ondulin to a rectangular chimney or chimney is presented. The sealing system will be mounted after the roofing material has been laid on the crate. The gap between the coating and the sides of the pipe, as well as below it, should be 20÷30 mm. On the rear side of the chimney, i.e. facing the ridge, the distance between the pipe wall and the batten can vary between 50 and 100 mm.
	In order to fix the sealing apron along the perimeter of the pipe, it is necessary to include additional elements of the crate in the roof structure in advance, which are fixed along the walls of the chimney pipe. For this additional crate, a beam with a section size of 40 × 40, 40 × 30 or 50 × 30 mm is suitable.
	The first step is to close the junction of the roof with the pipe from the front side of the pipe with a covering apron made specifically for ondulin. Usually, the manufacturer of roofing material also produces additional elements for the design of adjoining, ridge and other complex and vulnerable coating units. Therefore, when purchasing material, you must immediately ask about the range of additional elements, and, making preliminary calculations, they must be immediately included in the project.
	The covering apron is applied to the place of its future installation - along the lower edge of the pipe facing the eaves. Marking is made on the apron, according to which it will be necessary to make cuts. The upper, flat part of the apron should remain exactly the width of the pipe, and the wavy part should have one wave on each side. In this case, it is necessary to cut the wavy part along the lower crest of the wave. First, the marking is done with a pencil.
	And then the apron is cut according to the marked markings. It is most convenient to cut the part with a sharp construction knife.
	Further, the finished apron is pressed against the pipe and fixed to the roof surface using branded roofing nails. The nails must enter through the ondulin into the beam of the crate installed around the pipe.
	In this case, nails are driven into the top of each wave of the apron relief. Fastening is not carried out only on the extreme waves that go beyond the dimensions of the pipe on both sides. It is very important to drive in the nails correctly, strictly vertically to the roof surface. And measure the efforts so as not to deform the coating when the fasteners are clogged too much.
	Now you need to prepare a waterproofing self-adhesive tape "Onduflash-super". This material is excellent for sealing complex areas - the butyl rubber component has excellent waterproofing qualities, and the aluminum base allows you to give the tape very complex shapes. The standard tape width is 300 mm. The length of the first segment should be 250÷300 mm
	The cut off piece of tape is applied to the future installation site and preliminarily bent along the relief of the sealed corner. The function of this segment will be to seal the edges of the previously fixed apron.
	After fitting the tape to the installation site, a protective film is removed from its back, covering the adhesive layer.
	The tape is applied at the area where the roof adjoins the pipe at the front corners so that it can simultaneously close the upper and lower parts of the apron by 70 ÷ 80 mm. In order for the tape to bend into the required position and fit snugly against the material of the roof, apron and pipe, its corner is cut.
	Further, the tape must be pressed with a good effort to all surfaces. It is especially important that the tape fits as tightly as possible along the joint line. First, such sealing is carried out on one lower corner of the pipe, and then the same is done on the opposite side.
	The next step is to attach the side apron to the pipe. The part is pressed against the surface of the roof and against the side wall of the pipe and the cut lines are marked.
	Sections of the upper part of the apron must be made clearly along the vertical boundaries of the pipe, that is, the edges of the apron are cut at a certain angle. And the lower part of the part, located on the roofing, should extend beyond the pipe both in its lower and upper parts by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
	Cuts are made along the marked lines with a sharp knife. First, a metal ruler is applied to the markup and it is necessary to draw a knife along it with gentle pressure.
	That is, the material of the apron is cut through approximately ⅔ of its thickness. Then, from a slight bending force, the apron part breaks off neatly along the cut line.
	In the next step, the prepared side parts of the apron are nailed to the roofing surface, under which additional elements of the crate are fixed. It is enough to drive three nails into each of the side parts of the apron - one in the center and one at the top and bottom.
	Further, a piece is cut off from the waterproofing self-adhesive tape, along the length exceeding the width of the pipe by 200 mm. This segment will go to seal the back, the most vulnerable part of the chimney penetration.
	The cut off part of the waterproofing tape is applied to the place of its future installation and bent along the line where the roofing sheets adjoin the pipe. At the same time, they try to immediately give the maximum shape to its lower part, repeating the waves of ondulin sheets.
	Next, the protective film is carefully removed from the tape, and the waterproofing material is pressed tightly against the surface of the pipe and against the roofing. The sides of the tape are cut so that the top of the cut parts can be glued to the sides of the pipe, where the apron elements are already fixed. Thus, the tape isolates the junction of the side element of the apron with the pipe wall, preventing water drops from penetrating here during rain.
	The next task is to glue the waterproofing tape on the front side of the pipe. It is fixed on top of the front upper part of the apron, that is, the one that goes onto the pipe. The width of the tape should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and its length should exceed the width of the pipe by 200 ÷ 300 mm, since it will bend onto the sides of the pipe and hide under the side parts of the apron. The tape must also be pressed very well against the brick or plaster surface of the pipe.
	Further, the upper edge of the waterproofing tape from the front side of the chimney is pressed with a metal fixing strip. Its fastening is made on dowels.
	The same strips are screwed to the sides of the pipe, 15 ÷ 17 mm below the edge of the apron. The photo clearly shows how the fixing rail should be located, the ends of which are cut along the line of the pipe corners.
	Further, the edges of the apron, remaining on top of the screwed side clamping strips, must be slightly bent from the surface of the pipe.
	Now this formed corner between the pipe wall and the slightly bent edge of the apron is densely filled with a layer of polyurethane sealant. For this operation, you will need a special construction syringe gun.
	Now it remains only to cut and lay an additional piece of ondulin on the back of the pipe. Its width should be equal to the width of the location of the side elements of the apron. and the length is from the ridge to the pipe. An additional piece of ondulin is laid on top of the already laid coating, as well as on top of the waterproofing tape glued to it and the pipe.
	The laid additional fragment of ondulin is nailed to the crate directly through the coating that has cooled down below. Fixation is carried out with roofing nails driven into the top of each wave of the coating.
	When the arrangement of the junction of the roofing material with the pipe is completed, you can proceed to the further installation of the ridge elements. This ridge element will close the upper edge of the additional ondulin sheet on top of the pipe.

The information presented above quite convincingly indicates that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in sealing the area where the roof adjoins the chimney pipe. It is quite possible to carry out such work on your own. However, at the same time, one should not forget about compliance with all safety requirements, since the work will take place at high altitude. Performing any installation operations on roof slopes without safety devices is extremely frivolous!

At the end of the publication, we suggest watching a video that shows in detail the process of sealing the adjunction of a tiled roof.

Video: Sealing the junction with a ceramic tile roof pipe

Bringing the pipe to the roof - this task at first glance does not seem particularly difficult. But in practice, everything is much more complicated: the ventilation passage through the roof should be done very carefully and in compliance with all technical requirements. After all, it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the roofing pie and ensure tightness.

We will tell you how the roof penetration is equipped in accordance with building codes. In the article presented by us, two options are analyzed: for a hard and soft type of coating. With our advice, you will be able to do the job perfectly with my own hands.

Of course, in a place where a ventilation or any other pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to ensure sufficient tightness so that moisture does not get inside the building. At the same time, this knot should not interfere with the runoff of precipitation from the roof surface. Another important point is the presence of reliable thermal insulation.

From above, the pipe should be protected from moisture penetration using a deflector. Certain requirements are imposed on the length of the ventilation pipe, designed to ensure sufficient draft inside the structure, although they are not as strict as the norms for chimneys.

Often, air exchange through ventilation is provided forcibly, using an exhaust fan, which is also installed near the transition node. This mechanism should also be reliably protected from the effects of precipitation and other natural factors. In addition, it is imperative to ensure that the electrical appliance is grounded.

Improper installation of this unit often causes poor removal of precipitation from the surface, which can lead to rapid damage to the roofing material. A lot of trouble can cause a ventilation duct apartment building if it goes to the roof across the slope.

In addition to the assembly of the passage of the ventilation duct through the roof, additional elements may be needed that protect the structure from precipitation, improve moisture removal, etc.

It is much better if the knot is located along the slope, so it will create less obstacles for water to drain. The optimal position is the location of a large transition node along the ridge. This option eliminates the need to install additional elements that reduce the resistance of the ventilation pipe to the convergence of precipitation.

A serious installation error is the position in which the front apron is under the roofing sheet. An apron is a structure that ensures a hermetic fit of the roof to the pipe walls. If the lower part of the apron is brought under the roof, water will flow into the gap, falling into the roofing pie and then into the attic space.

The installation principles of the ventilation system transition point can also be used for the installation of other similar devices, for example, chimneys

The absence of a heat-insulating layer contributes to the appearance of a temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensate on the surface of the ventilation pipes. Over time, this situation can lead to damage to the material of construction, the formation of mold, oxides, rust deposits, etc.

The outer part of the ventilation pipe protruding above the roof must be protected with a deflector cap from the penetration of moisture and precipitation.

Old ventilation ducts usually have a so-called “otter” - a thickening that allows the heated air to cool down a bit before exiting to the roof. As a result, the temperature difference between air and roof communications will be less, which will reduce the likelihood of condensation.

In modern houses, aprons are used, with the help of which the gap between the pipe and the roof is completely sealed. In this case, cuts for installing aprons are formed using a grinder. Insulation of metal and plastic pipes can be made with mineral wool or other suitable material.

For a round ventilation duct, it is better to choose an industrial model of the transition node, since it will not be easy to make such a device on your own

Sometimes a wooden or metal box is used for these purposes. When designing, you should immediately consider the option of arranging a passage through the roof. Experts note that a pipe with a rectangular or square section is much easier to bring out than a round structure.

To ensure a sufficiently tight connection between the ventilation pipe and the roofing material, a square sleeve is usually used, which is put on top of the pipe. It is filled with non-flammable material, mainly sand or small expanded clay, which is why this design is called the “sandbox”.

It is necessary to bring ventilation above the roof to a height equal to the height. So you need to ensure stable traction. This value depends on the distance of the chimney from the ridge fin.

The node of the passage of ventilation and chimney through the roof is performed after installation ventilation system, but before the installation of the roofing cake and laying the coating

The passage assembly must be securely fastened to all roof elements. It is also worth paying attention to the distance between the edge of the pipe and fixed above it. It should be so large that the air masses passing through the ventilation duct can move freely.

Hard roof work

To equip the node for the passage of a ventilation duct through a roof covered with hard roofing materials (tiles, slate, corrugated board, etc.), a square sandbox-type structure is used, the gaps around which are filled with non-combustible heat-insulating material.

A small flanging should be made on it in order to protect the thermal insulation from contact with moisture that has fallen directly on the pipe. Around the metal rectangular sleeve, it is necessary to install four parts of the apron, which will eventually cover the line where the pipe joins the roof from all sides.

First, the lower part is installed, then the side parts are mounted, after which the apron element can be placed on top. The horizontal part of the apron part, located above the rest, should be brought under the roofing material. The rest, i.e. side and bottom elements, mounted on top of the roof.

Before starting the installation of an industrial ventilation transition unit through the roof, it is recommended to study the design of this element and take into account the manufacturer's recommendations

A tie is a long roof gutter that must be provided roof structure. Quite often, when installing a ventilation passage assembly, it is possible to do without such an element. To clarify this point, it is recommended to consult an experienced roofer.

The apron can be purchased ready-made, but it is easy to make such a design yourself. For this, galvanized roofing sheet 0.5 mm thick is used. It is undesirable to use a thicker roofing material, as it will be more difficult to bend to give the desired shape.

The difference in air temperatures inside and outside the ventilation can lead to condensation inside the structure, so it is recommended to insulate part of the ventilation duct

But thin tin for these purposes should not be taken, since it does not have sufficient reliability. The size of the apron must match the size of the wave of the material that is used for the roof.

To mount the transition node under the metal tile, the vertical part of the apron is made as long as two roofing waves, and the horizontal part is made as long as three times the wavelength.

These dimensions are designed to create a sufficiently large entry of the apron onto the horizontal plane of the pipe and the inclined plane of the coating in order to prevent even accidental splashes from getting under the roofing material. Aprons are also mounted with an overlap of the element installed on top of the part located below.

The overlap of elements equal to the width of one of them is considered optimal, but such a position is not always achievable. So, the overlap of the top and side elements of the apron will be hidden under the roofing material, it is difficult to install the parts in the correct position here.

But with the imposition of the lower and side parts of the apron, there is no such problem, it is recommended to accurately maintain the required dimensions. If necessary, the dimensions of the parts of the apron after installation can be adjusted using metal scissors.

Flanging should be performed only for the top and side elements. For the lower one, such an adjustment is not necessary, since moisture from it descends onto the roof slope and, possibly, onto the tie.

If the transition node for the ventilation duct is installed correctly, then the under-roof space will be reliably protected from precipitation and moisture

This element can be installed on top of the roof to optimize moisture removal. In such a situation, a slight bend should be made on the bottom of the apron towards the tie.

In addition, you will need a lower flanging. If the installation of a tie is not provided for by the design, then the lower flanging on the apron is not needed, however, the outlet for moisture should be made larger.

Arrangement of transition on a soft roof

Roof structures for soft roofing have some features that affect the installation of the ventilation passage. The slopes on such a roof are usually performed with a slope of 12º and above.

Piece roofing material is not suitable for arranging low-pitched structures, because. characterized by a large number of joints and seams. Arrangement of the passage node in pitched roof it is necessary to think over at the stage in order to choose the best option.

When installing the passage assembly, the part deployed to the roof ridge is led under a sheet of roofing material so that moisture does not get into the gaps and does not damage the insulation

Before starting work on the installation of the ventilation transition, you should find out in which direction the roof is tilted. If the passage assembly is installed on a rigid roof before the start of roofing work, then in this situation, you must first roll out the main area of ​​​​the roofing carpet.

After that, a thermal unit is made and thermal insulation materials are installed. Further actions depend on the shape of the roof penetration assembly. For an element with a circular section, only two parts will need to be installed, but a square configuration assembly is mounted using four components.

Instead of hard aprons, which were described above, pieces of welded roofing material will be needed here. They are fixed on the roof and on the passage node. The fixing process starts from the bottom, then from the middle to the edges, after which the upper part of the lining is attached.

The installation height of ventilation pipes above the roof level is subject to similar requirements as for the installation of chimney ducts. Simply put, the height of the ventilation risers is taken equal to the height of the chimneys. Often they are arranged nearby, in the same mine

Separate elements are installed in a similar way: first the bottom, then the side ones, complete the installation by fixing the top lining. Of course, all these parts must have some overlap, but the requirements for its dimensions are not as strict as when installing a passage under a hard roofing material.

From the pitched roof, atmospheric water flows are discharged quickly and regularly, so a significant overlap in this situation is not needed. But the low rate of winter precipitation on the roof can create another problem. At the junctions, the roofing material may delaminate upon prolonged contact with moisture.

Soft roofing materials are usually placed on slopes with a slight slope. In any case, the direction of inclination of the slopes should be taken into account.

To prevent such a situation, you should pay special attention to the quality of installation of the flexible roof, strictly comply with all the requirements of the laying technology. In simple terms, the roofing sheet should be properly heated and pressed firmly. In this case, you can use the slapping technique or use a special roller to roll the shingle.

The sheet is slammed with the help of a mitten in which a leather tab is inserted. The roller is more suitable for working on thin roofing materials. If a multi-layer material is used, the installation of a large assembly is usually carried out using two-layer overlays.

For a small element, only one layer can be used. A round passage of small diameter is made out by two large overlays with a horizontally bent “skirt”.

First, the lower element is mounted, then the upper one. During installation, the sheet of heated material must be slightly tightened to ensure reliable coverage of the ventilation communication and the necessary overlap.

Features of installation of a typical design

Penetration units for ventilation communications of industrial production are performed in accordance with the requirements of GOST-15150. It is believed that the air temperature inside the communication pipe should not exceed 80 degrees, and the flow humidity should be within 60%.

The place where the ventilation pipe passes through the roof usually has a square configuration, this must be taken into account when choosing the shape of the duct and the type of transition node

To calculate the passage node, one should take into account such indicators as the slope angle of the slope and the distance from the element to the roof ridge.

A typical transition node can be made in the following variations:

• with or without condensate ring;
• with insulated or conventional valve or without valve;
• with manual or mechanical control for the valve;
• with or without spark protection, etc.

The options listed may vary depending on the situation. For example, it is not necessary to install a mechanical valve if the system is stable and does not need constant adjustment. It is also possible to manufacture a penetration unit on order.

Typical units for penetration through the roof, made at industrial enterprises, are very diverse, they are selected depending on the size of the pipe and the characteristics of the roof

Structures of this type are made of polymers, stainless steel 0.5-0.8 mm thick and black steel 1.5-2 mm thick. The cross section of the finished transition node can be round, oval, square or rectangular. A specific model is chosen depending on the type of roofing material and the parameters of the ventilation pipe.

Although foreign-made passage assemblies are usually of high quality, they are not always adapted to local climatic conditions, so it does not hurt to carefully study the offers of domestic manufacturers.

They are usually labeled as follows:

• the letters UE with an index from 1 to 10 indicate a design without a condenser ring and a valve;
• indexes from 2 to 10 indicate devices with a manual valve, the ring is missing;
• the designation of the UPZ is assigned to devices with a special platform for the actuator for the valve, which is provided for by the design.

The complete set of ready-made models of transition nodes includes embedded bolts and nuts that are attached to wooden structures, reinforced concrete cups intended for installation. Mineral wool is successfully used for thermal insulation, which is recommended to be protected with a layer of fiberglass.

If it is necessary to install a ventilation unit with a safety valve, you should pay attention to the branch pipe intended for it. A valve must be attached to the bottom flange of this element. The upper flange is designed to fix the position of the air duct. Clamps and brackets are used as fasteners for braces.

To further protect ventilation riser from moisture, you need to use a skirt. The condensate collector is welded to the branch pipe.

It is designed to remove moisture from the air masses that move through the ventilation duct. To control the valve, a mechanical unit is used, which should be installed on the shelf intended for it.

This element should not be installed next to the condensate collection ring in order to maintain the integrity of all penetration elements. Typical node models are usually mounted before the start of roofing work: first, the ventilation system ducts are mounted, then the passage, and the roof is placed after that.

For this you should:

• clean the surfaces of the pipe and roof from contamination;
• seal the lower part of the duct and the adjacent section of the roof with foil paper;
• fill holes with sealant.

These measures will help protect the penetration from moisture and create additional thermal insulation of the structure.

The rules of installation of the ventilation system itself will be introduced by the one recommended by us, in which the nuances of design and organization are analyzed in detail.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

A video demonstrating the installation of the ventilation pipe passage assembly through the roofing system allows you to get an idea of ​​the features of this type of work:

Installing this important element not too hard to do. But it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of the installation technology in order to prevent moisture retention on the roof surface and its penetration under the coating.

Tell us about how you arranged the passage of the ventilation pipe through the attic and the roofing pie with your own hands. It is possible that you know the technological subtleties that will be useful to site visitors. Please write comments in the block below, post photos and ask questions on the topic.