DIY kitchen corner - the simplest and most affordable ideas. Do-it-yourself corner wardrobe: diagrams, important tips Do-it-yourself corner wardrobe for the bedroom (drawings)

Making a cabinet with your own hands is easier than a table or chair, but somewhat more difficult than a stool or bedside table. If you fully understand how these pieces of furniture are made, then you can take on the cabinet. There are 3 possible options for organizing work:

• A simple, unpretentious closet for utility rooms. It is preferable for beginners to start with it: there will be benefits, the flaws will not be visible, and the acquired skills will be useful in the future;
• A cabinet cabinet “like everyone else’s” for living rooms, but with significantly, 2-2.5 times, lower costs Money. At the cost of your own labor and skill, of course;
• At costs comparable or even lower than for a regular store-bought cabinet, it is possible to make a very high-quality and durable cabinet, which are sold as extra or luxury.

Sliding wardrobes are especially popular now: they allow you to save a lot of living space, and the fittings and door sliding mechanisms for them are affordable. Making a wardrobe with your own hands is more difficult than a hinged one, but it is still possible for a novice furniture maker. And, as will be discussed later, there is an opportunity to save a lot on fairly expensive door profiles.

The built-in wardrobe provides even greater savings in material, see fig. But it’s definitely worth taking on it only if the apartment has a ready-made niche or a solid floor has been laid using a leveler. Otherwise, work on leveling the floor will eat up all the savings. The ceiling may also have to be trimmed, but not as accurately and this work is easier.

In any home there is also a restless corner in which only garbage collects. It can be usefully filled with a corner cabinet. Structurally, it is more complex than usual, and saving money when making it yourself will be less. But this will pay off in convenience, especially in small apartments: standard “corners” in them do not add much to ergonomics, and a non-standard custom one will be expensive.

However, the main purpose of this article is not to snatch here and nibble there. There are plenty of manuals on the manufacture and self-assembly of cabinets in RuNet. Right down to instructions like: “Take the drill with your hand...”. If not with teeth, then it would be necessary to clarify: which one - right or left? Because a person’s hands are functionally different. However, the existing publications are written quite conscientiously - each about a separate specific product. There are also very general reviews. But something like a summary of how to design and make a cabinet according to your own conditions and needs is not visible. But a closet is not a table or a chair; it requires a lot of space and stays on it for a long time or forever. And besides, it is an aesthetically defining piece of furniture.

In this publication We will work on how to design and assemble a closet yourself specifically for your home; It is this approach that will provide the greatest savings in both money and labor. Where the closet should be, how much space there is and what will be in it, you decide for yourself; precise recommendations from outside are impossible. The rest, so to speak, of home cabinet building is carried out step by step as follows:

1. Determining cabinet dimensions;
2. Choosing the type of design based on your needs and available capabilities;
3. Choice of door type – hinged, sliding (wardrobe) or folding;
4. Selection of material and suitable assembly technology for it;
5. Selection of filling installation methods (shelves, drawers, hanger bars);
6. Cabinet design;
7. Preparing space for the cabinet, if it is built-in;
8. Preparation of body parts;
9. Housing assembly;
10. Manufacturing and hanging doors;
11. Manufacturing (purchase) of filling modules;
12. Filling the cabinet.

Dimensions and layout

The general diagram of a conventional cabinet cabinet is shown in Fig. on right. Some of the modules, based on the available floor area and ceiling height, may not exist, or it will be, say, not 2, but single-leaf. However, the dimensions of the cabinet within certain limits and the principles of its layout must be followed:

• Transverse depth (width) – 450-650 mm. Less - the product will be unstable; more – inconvenient.
• The height of the wardrobe (dress compartment, cabinet on the right in the figure) is 1550-1850 mm.
• Chest height – 700-750 mm.
• The width of drawers and shelves is 400-450 mm.
• The depth of the drawers is 250-300 mm.
• The distance between the shelves is 300-350 mm.
• Vertical layout: drawers below, shelves above them, and niches above all.

The dimensions of drawers and shelves should be kept within the specified limits. With smaller ones, the capacity of the cabinet drops sharply with the same overall dimensions, which complicates it and increases its cost. With large drawers, it is difficult to operate and keep them in order.

Do you need mezzanines?

Mezzanines add a lot to the labor intensity and cost of the cabinet. But to assemble a cabinet without mezzanines, you need at least 7 cm between its roof and the ceiling, if you use special tools, and from 12 cm with ordinary tools. Mezzanines can be assembled at the bottom and pushed up, for which there will be enough space under the ceiling of 2-3 cm, otherwise and 10-12 mm. Now let’s estimate: a small cabinet, 1.6x0.6 m in plan. Let's take 7 cm to the ceiling, this will come out to just over 67 cubic meters. dm. That is, the capacity for a pair of bedside tables or a children's playhouse, or a shoe cabinet, which are also needed in the house. In general, it’s better not to be lazy and make a closet with mezzanines.

Design

The general layout of the cabinet allows for many options for technical implementation; just look at trade catalogues. In living rooms, as you know, wall cabinets are most often installed, pos. 1 in Fig. A classic wardrobe with a mirror, pos. 2. In the nursery, office or bachelor’s one-room apartment - a pencil case, pos. 3. If the apartment has a shallow niche, there is a good place for a built-in wardrobe, pos. 4. It is especially useful for household items in common areas, pos. 5: there is always a technical area there, but the riser is not replaced or at least the inspection hatch in it is opened every year or even every decade.

About walk-through cabinets

About corner cabinets, pos. 6 and 7, we will talk in more detail below, but for now we will dwell on the walk-through cabinets, pos. 8. Actually, a real walk-through wardrobe is something like a walk-through dressing room: doors in front and back, and the contents are placed on the sides of the passage. Once upon a time, these were used in hallways to save space, but with the advent of reliable and affordable sliding doors, they began to consider a walk-in closet with a mezzanine above the door.

A walk-through cabinet will not only be appropriate in a long narrow room. It can be a key element in the overall layout of the home. Let's say you are sketching a sketch of a future new building. And remember that not only construction costs, but also property taxes and utility bills in the future depend on the size of the house in the plan. Accordingly, you plan rooms for purely personal use - a kitchen, a bedroom, an office - according to the residual principle, as a result of which they emerge as tunnels of extremely small width for living rooms. This is where a walk-in closet will help out: it will give the room(s) the necessary coziness, and it may also be possible to enclose a dressing room, closet or small workshop; A cabinet deeper than 65 cm is not needed.

About corner cabinets

Cabinet, fitting outer corner, pos. 1 in the figure is no different: these are 2 wall cabinets with a stand at the corner. The rack is designed and subsequently assembled last. It is not structurally connected to the side wing sections, nor are the wings connected to each other.

With cabinets in the inner corner the situation is different. If they are not single, then the corner section is designed and then assembled first, and then the wings are adjusted to it, and the last is the extension stand, if there is one.

Triangular (not necessarily equilateral) cabinet in the corner, pos. 2, this is most often a simple utility cabinet in that most restless corner, in the bathroom or on the balcony. We will look at a couple of constructions of this kind later.

In living rooms, L-shaped corner cabinets are most often installed, pos. 3, or five-wall cabinets, pos. 4. The L-shaped cabinet is a little more complicated than usual: there is no corner section as such, and the wings are also connected by an L-shaped stand in cross-section, pos. 4a. However, the G-cabinet is not very convenient and aesthetically pleasing, and the ratio of its capacity to occupied space is even less than that of a straight wall cabinet.

A five-wall cabinet is the most spacious of all, especially since the corner section can store very bulky things, practically without taking up any extra usable space. It is durable and stable because... its frame is a rigid spatial structure, pos. 4a. The wings of a corner cabinet can be different depths, therefore, both in front and in area, it can take up one and a half times less space than a wall cabinet of the same capacity, pos. 4b. And if there is a five-wall closet in the bedroom, then in just one corner there are 2 pencil cases with everything necessary in this case, pos. 4c.

However, a five-wall cabinet, firstly, is more labor-intensive and requires more precise cutting of parts, which is especially important when self-production. Secondly, when designing it (see below), you need to take into account some nuances regarding the doors of the central section.

Take a closer look at how the doors of any cabinet open hidden hinges. When the door is half open, its edge adjacent to the hinge extends a few mm beyond the clearance, and the plane of the fully open door again becomes flush with the side wall of the cabinet. If, instead of an empty space, there is a wing facade nearby, then the door may rest against it and not open completely. To avoid this, the angle between the facades of the central section and the wing adjacent to the hinges of its door must be at least 135 degrees. Therefore, if you are designing a five-wall with wings of unequal depth, the corner door should open towards the deeper wing. And if the depth of the wings is the same, or the corner has 2 doors, then the corner section should be equilateral.

Finally, cabinets that are trapezoidal in plan are occasionally made, pos. 5. They are complex, material- and labor-intensive, and their capacity relative to the occupied area is record-breakingly small. Trapezoidal cabinets are made only when the passage behind the cabinet turns out to be unacceptably narrow and needs to be somehow expanded.

Note: special case – radius cabinets, see fig. on right. They are not only original and modernly elegant, but also durable, spacious and less blocking of passages. But their design is not for everyone and not even for every mid-level salon.

Base or legs?

How to place the cabinet - directly on the floor, on a plinth or pads (legs)? The easiest way to do this is on the floor, but it must be perfectly flat and durable, for example, laid with a laminate over a flowing leveler on a backing without lags. The base is quite labor-intensive and requires extra boards, but it gives the cabinet strength. The bottom of the cabinet on thrust bearings, so that it does not sag, must be thick and durable, which can cost more than the material for the base. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cabinet with thrusters only in the kitchen, food pantry, etc. rooms where, as they used to say in the old days, worldly creatures such as cockroaches and mice can infest themselves. It is very difficult to get them out of the basement.

What kind of doors should they be?

If the room where the cabinet will go is spacious enough, then the best option its doors are hinged. They are simpler, cheaper and more reliable than sliding ones. There is only one subtlety here: hidden hinges take not mortise ones, as in factory cabinets, but overhead ones, see fig. In production, they are less technologically advanced and cost-effective, because a backing block is required, but it is much stronger than mortise ones and there is no need to cut out holes in the side walls with a milling cutter.

However, not everyone lives in mansions, so sliding closet doors are the most common. In general, they open less often than interior ones, they don’t slam against drafts, and the only people who walk through the closet into the wall are bigwigs who don’t care what kind of doors there are or whether there are any at all. Therefore, cabinet doors can be made lighter, and the presence of a threshold does not affect the ease of use of the cabinet.

There are dozens of manufacturers of sliding door mechanisms; each produces several systems and tries to bring something new to the product so that it can better push its elbows in the market. The assembly instructions tell you exactly why this product is good, and as a rule, they don’t lie. But comments like, well, our product is more suitable here, and if it’s over there, then it’s better to turn to competitors, of course, don’t wait. However, simple general rules It is possible to choose a cabinet door mechanism, especially since there are no fundamental differences in quality between them.

First of all, for a cabinet door you do not need to use expensive mechanisms with a free lower edge of the door sliding in a shoe or along a ridge, see fig. These suspension systems are designed for heavy interior doors and require ceiling leveling. In addition, the bottom door leaf in the first case it wears out; in the second it turns out to be prone to breakdowns. Protective linings/gutters are sold optionally and the prices are, to put it mildly, somewhat strange. Other mechanisms are suitable for the cabinet, and here the choice depends on the door.

Just doors

If the doors are solid wood or made of chipboard, and the cabinet is on a plinth, then a frameless sliding mechanism is more suitable, because It is cheaper and installing doors is easier with it. The cheapest of these is with top suspension (top travel, top rail) pos. And in Fig. Until recently, they were considered unreliable: when pushed, the doors on the top move would fall inward. But literally over the last 2-3 years, the top stroke has been seriously improved and the flimsiest of the current ones can withstand a blow to the facade of 45 kgf. This is stronger than the splash of a street hooligan or the kick of an overweight, tipsy guest.

For the same doors in a built-in closet, a system with a lower support (bottom rail), pos. B. Here, first, it is better to take a system with separate guides (tracks), pos. B1. Paired tracks require installation precision that is difficult to achieve at home and are designed for boards of a strictly defined thickness. Because of this, designing a cabinet becomes more difficult and the overspend on material may be greater than the savings due to paired tracks.

Further, frameless doors at 4 points of power (tight) contact with the tracks are prone to jamming, so the carriages of the upper rollers (rollers) must be installed as quad self-aligning ones, pos. B2. But not any for any door.

Threaded fasteners in wood sit tighter if they are wound along the grain rather than across it. In laminated chipboard, on the contrary, self-tapping screws/confirmations are more securely wrapped in the face rather than in the end. That's why wooden doors suspended on end rollers, as in pos. B2. If the doors are made of laminated chipboard, then the rollers must be mounted on axles, i.e. L- or U-shaped brackets, like the lower rollers on pos. A.

Note: For a door with end rollers, a decorative trim covering the rollers and the top track is desirable. But in the hallway it may be superfluous - the gap at the top will provide ventilation for the closet with wet outerwear.

And finally, the lower rollers must, firstly, be adjustable in height, taking into account not only the unevenness of the floor, but also the drying out of the door leaf. Secondly, the lower rollers, especially if the cabinet goes into the hallway, are needed with a 2-axis support-thrust surface, i.e. with a flange, like a railway wheel, pos. B3, and rubber-coated steel; in extreme cases - propylene. Why? The flanged rollers themselves push dirt out of the track groove.

Glass mirror

For a glass/mirror door, the only option well tested in practice is frame door with bottom rail made of special profiles, pos. Q. How to assemble it is described in detail in the company’s instructions and on the RuNet, but there are still some things you need to pay attention to.

First, make sure that the profile you like is one of those recommended in the mechanical specifications. As a rule, there are no problems here; the production of accessories for glass doors well developed.

Second, installation of mirror/glass, pos. IN 1. You should only use glass of the recommended thickness with the included seals. It fits into them quite tightly, but if it gets in easily, then it won’t be difficult for it to fall out later. To make it easier to frame the glass (profiles are put on it), you need:

• Work on a flat, smooth surface covered with a thick, clean cloth without scars/seams or several layers of newspaper. The pros frame the mirrors on foam boards.
• Order mirror/glass with rounded (licked) edges. You can “lick” the ribs yourself with a generously moistened emery block, after first running a wet cloth along the edge of the glass. There is no need to rub until a visible chamfer appears; It is enough to “shrink” it 2-3 times with light pressure so that the rib does not bite the seal.
• Before installing the profile, run along the edges of the glass with a clean rag, slightly moistened with any gel detergent for dishes. Soap solution somewhat worse, dries quickly.
• You need to push the profile onto the glass by tapping it evenly along its length with a rubber hammer. Shoving, as they say, while pushing your navel at an angle, is unacceptable.

Third, installation and fine-tuning of the upper rollers (“Asymmetrical roller” in the figure). It is clear that the asymmetry should be in one direction on the canvas, and in different directions for the outer and inner sashes. But, pay attention to the inset at the top right: the same screw holds both the frame sections and the roller. Moreover, the screw is self-tapping, it is screwed only once. Assembling a frame “from scratch” without a mirror, and reassembling it after adjustment is a gross mistake of amateurs. That's why:

1. The upper assembly screws are initially under-turned by 3-4 mm.
2. The installation whiskers of the rollers are inserted under the heads of the screws and the screws are screwed in tightly, but not tightly: if the roller is pulled outward with force, it should “crawl out” from under the screw.
3. They install the door, check the movement, and adjust the lower rollers.
4. In place, tighten the screws of the upper rollers to failure.

Glasswood

Look at what's on the left in the figure. And on the right is how it was made. Not bad, right? This door has not been tested hanging, but judging by what it has endured over more than 27 years of use, it will hold up. With acrylic glass, which was a rare, expensive curiosity back then, it will definitely hold up. The depth of the groove for glass is from 3 times its thickness.

The secret, firstly, is in aquarium silicone. It is much more expensive than the construction one, but 20 ml was more than enough for a couple of doors. But its strength is simply monstrous. Just take a look at a 200-liter aquarium and imagine what pressure there is from the inside. And the glass is simply glued end to end. Secondly, here the long edges of the glass are securely covered. Breaking glass with a direct blow is not so easy.

Note: Before installing the cabinet doors, you must, of course, check and set the squareness of the opening. It is inconvenient to use a tape measure, since it is not a cast-off foundation open on all sides. A pair of slats with pointed ends, fastened with rubber bands, will help out, see fig. At the first measurement, a mark is made on them with a pencil (pos. 1), and the divergence of its halves on the second will accurately show the difference in diagonals (pos. 2).

Finally, at pos. G – wardrobe with book doors. The bottom line is that the area taken up for swinging doors, based on a set of ergonomic indicators, depends nonlinearly on the distance of the open door. Therefore, a folding door will take up only 1/4 of the floor area compared to a swing door of the same width, and its fittings are cheaper than for sliding door, and never jams.

Material

What is the cabinet made of? There are 3 options here: laminated chipboard, solid wood (ready-made furniture panels) and measured lumber, i.e. just boards. Let's compare them by cost, complexity and work, strength, durability and aesthetics. Let's take into account that the overall strength of wood is less than laminated chipboard, so we take the thickness of wooden parts from 24 mm, not 16, and from 30 mm for unplaned blanks; 3 mm from each face will be spent on planing.

laminated chipboard

About edges

Cabinet parts made of laminated chipboard need to be edged. Since they cannot be crawled along their edges with elbows, the cabinets are edged with a flat melamine self-adhesive edge, 2 mm front edges and 0.4 mm invisible edges, see fig. on right. Melamine is a heat-resistant material, and you can edge it at home with a hot iron through a clean thin cloth or, better yet, fluoroplastic film. But first you need to find out what will cost less: edging together with cutting at a furniture company or doing it yourself using edging purchased at retail in small quantities.

Calculation

Laminated chipboard “lives” up to 25-30 years. Then the binder begins to break down, swell, and the ends of the parts take on the appearance of what is shown in Fig. left. A laminated chipboard sheet 2750x1850x16 mm (5 sq. m and 0.08 cubic m) of the 1st grade, glossy, will cost from 4,000 rubles; For a 2-door cabinet you need 2 sheets. Textured chipboard without gloss of the 2nd grade can be found from 1100 rubles / sheet, but its phenol emission class will be from E2, which is for residential premises unacceptable.

Cutting sheets according to the drawing will cost about 500 rubles, and about 1000 more for edging the parts. We don’t count the fittings; they are the same for every cabinet. Total for a laminated chipboard for a cabinet that is 20 years old, “the same as everyone else’s,” is about 9,500 rubles. Let's add another 200 (this is very divine) for confirmations with plugs, because... for laminated chipboard this is the only acceptable option for assemblies, see below. Total about 10 thousand.

Array

Ready-made furniture panels will need the same 5 square meters. m, because They are produced planed with a thickness of 18 mm. Approximate prices for a square panel 600 mm wide:

• Knotty pine 28 mm (after varnishing with tinted varnish, very beautiful furniture) - OK. 1850 rub./sq. m, i.e. OK. 9250 rub. on the closet.
• Straight-layer pine – 1950 rub./sq. m and 9750 rub. accordingly.
• Oak of the same size, 20 mm thick (acceptably, it is durable) - 7,500 rubles / sq. m. m and 37,500 rub. resp.

The fasteners will cost up to 200 rubles; they are made of wood, see below. Still ok. 1500 rub. - for varnish and glue. And the same amount as for laminated chipboard - for cutting, because The material is expensive and learning from it is expensive.

We can already conclude that you should only make a solid pine cabinet with your own hands: solid larch and birch are not much cheaper than oak, and beech, ash, walnut and maple are more expensive. However, solid pine cabinets also last 100-200 years or more.

Board

The edged board for the cabinet will use approximately (30/16) x 0.08 = 0.15 cubic meters. m. Let's give some extra reserve for amateur processing and take 0.25 cubic meters. m. Pine will cost approx. 5000 rub./cubic. m; oak and beech – approx. 24,000 rub./cubic. m. That is per cabinet - approx. 1250 and 6000 rub. respectively; for fasteners, varnish and glue - as in previous. case.

There is another argument in favor of natural wood. Take a look at fig. Such doors can be made from laminated chipboard and self-adhesive only in a thermal vacuum chamber, i.e. in production. But it’s difficult to make wood, but you can do it at home, using manual router with a shaped cutter, and there’s a stop there. The curves are drawn by attaching a template to the corresponding edge of the workpiece. You can also practice cutting/simple carving by buying an extra board, it won’t be ruinous. To practice working skills, cheap pine or any wooden scraps will do.

However, making a homemade cabinet from boards is long and difficult. First, purchased lumber must be kept outdoors under a canopy from autumn to summer. This will be a complete analogue of industrial preparation by steaming to 100% humidity followed by drying with superheated steam. Next, the boards will need to be dried in a warm, dry room again until autumn: the cabinet is not a stool, the wood moisture content needs to be up to 6%.

Then the boards will need to be pulled together from the boards, like the top of a dining table, using a homemade clamp. They are assembled onto a smooth fugue, but not plywood, but from the same wood, or on dowels, see below.

Note: Boards for furniture must be purchased of absolutely good quality, without the slightest trace of rot and mold. Boards bleached with wood restorers are not suitable.

Summary of the material

In general, if you want to make at least some kind of cabinet in a couple of weekends until you have some money for good purchased furniture, then the only option is laminated chipboard on confirmed materials. If you intend to pass on your memory to your children and grandchildren in the form of homemade furniture(which by that time may have become a valuable antique), then you should consider the option of a wooden cabinet. Moreover, a plank made of valuable wood will cost no more than a homemade one a quick fix from laminated chipboard.

Connections

How to connect cabinet parts? Eccentrics, pos. 1 in Fig., discard immediately. These are connections of inexpensive quick-assembled/disassembled furniture; simply - consumer goods: brought, molded/inserted, spun, took money, ran away.

Thread profile and head configuration of confirmats, pos. 2, specially designed for laminated chipboards; wood on confirmed mats holds up worse, and laminated chipboard on wood-to-wood joints, see below, is generally very bad. Just keep in mind that, in addition to furniture fittings with a hexagon head, there are plumbing fittings for plastic, with a Phillips head. They are not interchangeable!

For confirmations you need a special drill, below at pos. 2, for each standard size of these hardware there is one. Holes for confirmations must be drilled along the conductor, pos. 3, otherwise the probability of one of the boards splitting during assembly is very high. Road conductor, for one-time work it is better to rent it.

It is also advisable to drill holes in the dowel connection along the jig, pos. 4, this best way assemblies wooden furniture. The fact is that the lignin of dowels and boards is gradually welded into a single mass, and the connection on the dowels gains strength over time. Furniture restorers are well familiar with this phenomenon.

Note: if the furniture is of the kind that can immediately experience extreme loads (say, a bed), then the dowels are installed with wedging. But we will leave the description of this technology until the appropriate occasion.

Ready-made dowels and blanks for them of different sizes are available for sale and are inexpensive. They need to be of the same type as the boards being joined, but harder: for pine - larch dowels, for furniture made of deciduous wood - oak. Oak is collected on oak dowels.

Also, a wide range of dowels (lamellas) are sold for joining panels from boards, pos. 5. The rules for choosing dowels are the same as dowels. As for the box connection pos. 6, then you need to learn how to make it if you are planning a real wooden cabinet that will last forever. In other cases, you can do it simpler, see below about filling, especially since the drawers, like removable modules, can be remade later.

About drywall cabinets

Drywall (gypsum board) is widely used in construction. But this is a finishing material, not a structural one. Therefore, when thinking about a gypsum board cabinet, keep in mind:

• It will require a complex frame made of special C- and U-profiles, pos. 1 in Fig., and a lot of fasteners.
• This cabinet cannot be moved.
• To hang the doors you will have to do wooden frame on the facade, because the hinges in the profiles do not hold in place and the entire frame is immediately prevented from using the doors.
• Drywall scratches and crumbles easily, so you should not place heavy, hard or sharp objects on the shelves.

In fact, a plasterboard cabinet is used in 2 cases. The first is a radius rack in a room with curved walls, pos. 2, because It is quite possible to make parts bent in one plane from gypsum board at home. The same cannot be said, however, about radius doors, without which a closet is not a closet.

The second is a simple corner cabinet for household items, pos. 3. GCR scraps left over from suspended ceiling and so on. With the indicated dimensions, a complex frame is not needed, but if there are doors, then the facade frame is still required.

Filling

Boxes

A “real” cabinet drawer is designed like a nightstand, see picture, only the dimensions are different. But at first, in order not to delay the work, it is better to assemble the boxes on confirmed chipboards, simply sanded, without texture, and paint them. The decorative facade can then be rearranged onto the “correct” box of the same size. Or maybe leave it as is: a thick, durable bottom will allow you to use lower guides with a high load-bearing capacity.

Cabinet drawers are always used more intensively and are loaded more than in a bedside table; They often put something in them/look for something in the depths. Therefore, you should not place them on homemade wooden guides. By the way, the first attempts to make full extension guides for cabinet drawers date back neither more nor less... to the 15th century. This is how jamming and distortions plagued furniture makers even then.

Drawer guides are divided into bottom and side, depending on the method of attachment to the drawer. But this division is very arbitrary, because both ultimately hold onto the walls/partitions of the cabinet, which determines the strength of the suspension as a whole. When choosing guides, more attention should be paid to the technological gaps on the sides and between the drawers: the space “eaten up” by them significantly affects the capacity and cost of the product.

For kitchen cabinet drawers, which, however, needs a separate discussion, you need bottom guides like metaboxes or their equivalents. The weakest of them hold a full load of 20 kg, and there are models with 50-70 kg, even if you dump a sack of potatoes in a box. But metaboxes are by no means cheap, but by default they are equipped with closers, i.e. the pulled out drawer slides back completely on its own with a slight push by hand.

For ordinary drawers, ordinary lower roller guides will do, as, say, for the keyboard board of a computer desk, above in Fig. Their closer works rather roughly and a heavy box does not always close completely, but they are cheap and at full reach they hold up to 12-15 kg, including the weight of the box.

Boxes for books, tools, etc. It’s better to put it on Kulkov ball guides, down there. They are relatively inexpensive, practically eternal (no plastic parts), do not require technical clearances at the top and bottom, and can hold up to 20 kg at full reach. There is only one drawback: there is no closer.

Shelves

You can’t say much about the shelves: the board is just like a board. Thickness from 16 mm for chipboard, from 24 mm for pine, from 18 mm for oak. The laminated chipboard is closed “on the face” with a 2 mm edge, and on the sides and back - 0.4 mm, which must be taken into account when designing. There is no need to neglect edging so that the board does not crumble and collect dust. But, depending on the overall tone of the finish, instead of edging, you can take sanded chipboard, prime it and paint it.

There are also only 3 tricks in the shelf holders. First, do not take metal ones made of aluminum-magnesium alloy, but plastic ones made of PVC or polyethylene. The first are fragile, the second are weak. Second - take it with fastening with self-tapping screws. Plug-in ones with smooth pins will break out of their sockets over time. And the third - for an unpretentious utility cabinet, very durable and reliable shelf holders are made from scraps of plinth, see fig.

Barbell

Now in fashion is the so-called. end rods for hangers, see fig. But, frankly speaking, they are for avid tidyists: summer blouses here, shirts there, and pants-skirts here and nowhere else. The end rods do not increase the capacity of the cabinet; they just make it less clear where things hang. And take any ordinary longitudinal rods according to your taste and pocket, there are no unsuitable ones for sale.

Project

Independently designing a cabinet and furniture in general is not very difficult these days: there are convenient computer programs. Among the Russian-speaking ones, PRO100 and Basis-Mebelshchik are popular for free distribution. Both are quite powerful and functional, but the first is more suitable for the virtual arrangement of furniture in the interior, and the second for the detailed design of individual products.

Both software come with training videos, they are available in RuNet and separately. But, as with any new software, experienced users may also have some general confusion. Namely: where to start, where to go and where to arrive. No one has yet come up with a uniquely linear system of bookmarks with tools/options. And this is hardly possible for creatures with an intelligence higher than that of a fire pump. For Basis-Furniture Maker, the general instructions for designing a cabinet look like this:

1. We enter the overall dimensions of the cabinet according to on-site measurements, this is the most critical stage;
2. We set the dimensions of the base, bottom and roof;
3. We assemble the back wall (fibreboard by default) with stiffeners (drawbars, chipboard by default);
4. We arrange internal partitions, vertical and horizontal, according to the division of the cabinet into sections. Which ones and how many – you decide, not the program;
5. We fill boxes. Basis-Furniture Maker does not automatically install shelves, rods, baskets, because... they are mounted in a ready-made cabinet on site;
6. We enter the dimensions of the cabinet doors, but they need to be designed separately;
7. Optionally we add mezzanines and open side racks;
8. We place the edges and fittings in their places;
9. We send drawings and specifications for printing with the exact dimensions of the parts: these are exactly what we need to purchase, order, saw, drill, cut.

Assembly

The manufacture of individual modules was discussed above in the course of the presentation, so let’s move straight to how to put it all together. Assembling a cabinet made of laminated chipboard on confirmed mats is not technologically difficult and is carried out in the following order:

• They try on the bottom and sides locally: was there any mistake when measuring the dimensions, position. 1 in Fig.;
• They assemble the base box and install internal partitions, because they are attached through the bottom, pos. 2;
• Place the side panels in place (carry the workpiece carefully!) so that the base fits exactly on the floor, pos. 3;
• They put on the roof;
• They move the cabinet aside, it is already strong enough, and sew up the back wall;
• Slide the cabinet into place and install the filling;
• Take out drawers, shelves, a bar (if it is in your pockets and not tightly secured), baskets, etc.;
• Install doors;
• Assemble and install mezzanines with racks, if any.

Assembling a wooden cabinet on dowels is different in that the internal partitions are placed after the sides, because otherwise they may break when moving the workpiece. And also because there is enough technical reserve under the ceiling for a cabinet without mezzanines: protrusion of dowels + roof thickness + (10-12) mm.

Special cases

The first is the hallway. Firstly, it needs a wardrobe that is small in width; English halls are not in use here. It is advisable to combine it with a hanger, then you will need a sliding single-door wardrobe, see fig. on the right, because Sometimes damp clothes will be hung in it and they will dry out in a sealed box. We also need more shelves for gloves, hats, scarves, summer clothes, and, of course, shoes. But there may be no boxes at all.

Schemes of cabinets in the hallway, hinged and sliding, are shown in Fig. The first is designed for a family of 2-3 people; the second is bachelor. The depth of the first is determined based on the minimum permissible passage width of 900 mm. If you want to make it sliding, you need to add 170-220 mm to it, depending on the chosen door hanging system.

The second is a balcony. It’s not worth putting a closet there, arranged like a room: it will block a lot of light and dust collectors will form, see fig. For a balcony you need a cabinet made primarily of horizontal modules, or an unequal angled one.

A drawing of a cabinet, suitable for extremely narrow balconies of Khrushchev-era buildings, is shown on the left in the figure, and a corner one is shown on the right in the same place. The latter will not block the escape hatch yet, because... is placed in the gap between the fire escape and the wall, which otherwise wastes space.

Finally

Let's hope that this publication has at least a little clearer to you in detail on how to make a cabinet yourself. And as an example of the general progress of work on the manufacture of a wardrobe, we offer a video. For the rest - good luck, patience, ingenuity, accuracy!

Video: DIY wardrobe assembly

In an effort to save money, many people try to assemble furniture themselves. This also allows you to realize your plan without depending on anyone, and in addition, it increases self-esteem, like any mastery of a useful skill. There are certain rules for how corner cabinets are created.

Step-by-step instruction

Making furniture (the same corner cabinet) is not so difficult, you just need to know some key points and be able to use drawings.

Before you draw, you need to decide geometric shape future product:

• trapezium;
• letter G;
• triangle.

There is another option - with five walls.

If you decide to do it yourself, it means you need to think about all the dimensions, which wall, shelf or drawer will take how long.

Let's take the following values ​​as an example: length and width are 90 cm, height is 250 cm. Using the assembly diagram, they calculate how much material will be needed and for what purpose.

You cannot make a homemade cabinet without the following materials:

• self-tapping screws;
• glue;
• rollers;
• accessories;
• profile;
• mirrors (optional).

It is understandable to want to save money by working with your own hands rather than ordering a cabinet, but there are moments on which it is not advisable to save money. Big mistake committed by those who order bad rollers or refuse a steel profile due to its supposed high cost.

Be sure to prepare workplace, the corner cabinet can be assembled properly only in this case.

Tools needed:

• drill;
• building level;
• perforator;
• hand saw;
• hammer.

If you want to speed up the work and do it carefully, order cutting of boards in a professional workshop.

The size of the product should correspond to the area of ​​the room where the future cabinet will be installed. Basic principles are also taken into account. So, for outerwear there is no point in allocating a compartment already 80 centimeters and below 140 cm. This is where the diagram comes in handy; by drawing up and using it, you will not miss the dimensions, you will not find that there is not enough space inside for everything you need. The type of cabinet has very little effect on its assembly.

The first step is to attach the steel angles, which will hold the sides of the structure and will not allow it to deviate from the floor and ceiling. Finished parts are used to make a frame, rollers are attached to the door, guides are installed and the doors are worked on. At this last step, all actions must be controlled by the level in order to eliminate the slightest distortions.

The internal work is no less important than the formation of the shell.

Here are the steps:

• install brackets;
• secure the shelves in their proper places;
• install the fittings (partitions first, then shelves and hangers, mirrors, and leave the handles for later).

Be sure to select fasteners in accordance with the base material (for brick and concrete, a dowel-nail, for wood - a nail or self-tapping screw, special dowels with spacers and a transverse notch must be screwed into aerated concrete). Vertical posts, inserted into the guides, should be secured with hangers. Stiffening ribs cannot be neglected; you should try to make them as large as possible - primarily in the places where a drawer or shelf will be placed. Replacing a metal profile with slats is permissible in exceptional cases, and the wood must be completely dry, otherwise shrinkage will deform the entire cabinet.

Without any special changes, this scheme is also used when assembling plasterboard cabinets, but there are still certain differences.

The starting point in this case is not the installation of the frame, but the marking of the floor and ceiling in accordance with the diagram. It is most practical to mark with a rubber shock-absorbing tape, and only use it to attach metal profiles as accurately as possible. To make the cabinet structure last longer, be sure to use stiffening ribs by inserting them between the rack profiles.

If you don’t want to face a situation where something needs to be redone, perform the next step especially carefully. The blanks need to be placed at the points assigned to them and attached to the screws (screwing them in at a distance of 20 cm or so). Make sure that the caps go into the material by a millimeter, and install corners wherever you then attach the shelves.

Under no circumstances do it yourself or order doors for a homemade cabinet anywhere until the rest of the structure is assembled! Otherwise, you may find that the dimensions have changed somewhat, and you won’t be able to finish the job. After the doors comes the turn of the rods and (if any) lamps.

Then all that remains is to take care of decorating it (priming the internal and external surfaces, sealing the joints gypsum plaster, applying crescent tape, installing paint corners, filling, drying, sanding and re-puttying, priming and finishing). What exactly to decorate - with tiles, other materials or simply paint - you need to decide on your own.

Design Features

Complaints about lack of space in an apartment or house are very common; Upon closer acquaintance with the home, it often turns out that some corners are empty and there is no way to use them. Both problems can be solved at the same time if you make a corner cabinet - it is also much more economical than buying it in a store or ordering it from a furniture company.

Almost anyone can draw up a drawing, but professionals should cut out the parts in accordance with the idea, since this is too difficult and troublesome. The height of the section where fur coats, jackets and coats are to be stored should be flexibly adjusted to the height of those who will use the closet; everyone should be able to easily reach the crossbar. An important clarification: by placing the crossbar widthwise, you will achieve greater efficiency from the internal space.

A carefully thought-out diagram helps you finally get your bearings on the size; it’s better to pay attention to it than to take unnecessary risks.

It is advisable to draw up a diagram while being exactly where the cabinet will be installed - then do not lose sight of any details. Even the smallest components must be reflected in the drawing. Mark the location of roll-out drawers, doors and baskets; the thickness of the material is indicated precisely, and the specification of any element is given. Yes, it's quite difficult - but there's no other way to do the job well. The installation locations of the lamps (if provided) should be noted immediately, both when drawing up the plan and when starting the work itself.

Styles and placement options

In the bedrooms with traditional interior Furniture made of MDF or fiberboard, covered with film, plastic layer or veneer, looks ideal. With the help of a mirror cloth it is not only possible to expand the room, but also to correct some visual problems. Many designers like to use high-strength glass, which allows them to show their imagination and realize the most daring projects.

Country style helps you feel light and at ease, relieve the burden of ever-plaguing problems. It’s easy to follow - avoid flashy colors and designs; the less processed the wood looks, the more accurately it matches the style canon.

Regarding the installation location, the best solution Most experts consider the place where the walls touch each other. If desired, you can completely cover one of the walls and leave the other free from furniture.

One of the placement options is kitchen, where the cabinet for culinary needs is placed. The arrangement of cabinets in any room has its own characteristics, but even against this background the kitchen stands out. There is always not enough space, and therefore any way to at least slightly increase the efficiency of space use is beneficial. Please note that measuring surfaces and ordering blanks only makes sense when the floor, walls, and ceiling are level - otherwise the cabinet may not fit in the given location.

To correctly design a corner Kitchen Cabinet, you need to use only two types of connections (at a right angle it should be connected to the countertop, and at an angle of 45 degrees - to the sink). Unlike direct option, additional inserts should be provided (they perform two functions at once - mechanical connection of drawers and replacement of part of the facade). A ledge is made at the top and bottom.

It is impossible to correctly calculate the structure and estimate the consumption of materials for it, unless you take into account that the upper and lower elements are located in the gap separating the side lobes, otherwise it will not be possible to design the facade properly. The tabletop must have an identical geometric shape.

Models

It is very important to draw a good diagram, choose a decent material and tool, and connect all the parts as expected. But even before this work, you should decide what exactly you want, because the closet is different from the closet.

There are three main options:

• the simplest (for a pantry or other utility room);
• a full-fledged product (such as a wardrobe or linen option);
• exquisite top-class furniture.

If you don’t have sufficient experience and confidence in success, you should only try the first type of corner cabinets - even if the result is not impressive, but practice and the errors will not immediately be exposed to everyone. Remember that you can save money only if there is already a prepared niche or a solid and very level floor, otherwise leveling it will require too much effort and money.

Do not try to either excessively reduce or increase the size of drawers and shelves - this will equally make them impractical and inconvenient to use. When creating a model, you need to take care not only that the facade is beautiful and the frame is strong. A very important point is the presence of mezzanines, thanks to them a certain amount of usable space is added. Making a wall cabinet is no more difficult than usual; you just have to be careful to avoid mistakes.

Dimensions

A cabinet that will fit into an internal corner (except for a single one) begins to be designed and assembled from the corner section, and only after it comes the turn of the wings and the extension stand. Two sections 80x80 (one for outerwear) is the bare minimum, without which there is nothing to talk about at all.

Instead of struggling with the selection of furniture in small apartment, better learn how to make a corner wardrobe with your own hands. After all, no matter how little space there is, the corners in the hallway, kitchen, and rooms remain empty. A hand-made cabinet will not only solve the problem of placing things, it will elegantly decorate the interior.

Design

There is no exemplary standard design that a corner wardrobe must comply with. It can be built-in (when you only need to install doors) or cabinet-mounted, have different sizes, different numbers of sides (triangular, trapezoidal, L- or U-shaped).

IN last years The radius sliding wardrobe has become popular, which is a furniture structure devoid of sharp corners. Lovers of beauty will undoubtedly appreciate the curved doors that slide along the corresponding profiles. This layout allows you to save space and elegantly solve the problem of storing a large number of things.

In Fig.2. angular are diagram No. 1 (concave), No. 2 (convex), No. 5 (convex column of a massive furniture structure or a free-standing small wardrobe). All other options for radius sliding wardrobes can be obtained by combining the 6 initial types listed above.

Radius is beautiful and functional

The movement of the radius cabinet doors is smooth and almost silent. Similar characteristics are provided by the profile included in the sliding mechanism. Manufacturers offer it in steel or aluminum. We recommend choosing the second option for the following reasons:

• increased resistance to damage;
• minimizing noise when the door slides.

Price aluminum profile higher than steel. However, over the course of long-term use, you will appreciate your choice.

The wall thickness must be at least 0.12 cm. A thicker profile increases the reliability of fastening. High-quality components are produced by Komandor, Absolut, Raumplus, Aristo, and others. If the height of the radius cabinet is above 3 m, we recommend taking the Raumplus profile.

The doors of a radius sliding wardrobe can be with an upper sliding system or with a lower one. In the first case, the doors hang on rollers. Movement is carried out along the upper guide. The initial impression of the suspension system is excellent. However, the large load on the upper horizon causes its gradual sagging. The suspension system wears out quickly without regular Maintenance can suddenly lock the door at the most inopportune moment.

The second sliding system looks preferable for daily household use. The sash slides along the bottom guide, the door is attached and fixed along the top. Load distribution evenly, assembled structure will last longer.

Door elements

Assembling corner wardrobes with your own hands without a diagram showing the exact dimensions is impossible. Particular attention must be paid to the moving part of the structure - the doors. You cannot miss anything or take the wrong size; in such a case, the doors will not be able to be used normally.

Before assembling your closet, let's take a closer look at the elements of doors with a bottom sliding system:

• Vertical side profiles can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. During operation they are used as handles. Symmetrical profiles look the same on both sides, while asymmetrical ones create a difference between the outer and outer sides.
• The asymmetrical rollers located at the top are designed to fix the sashes in the opening.
• The upper door frame is necessary for attaching wheels to it, as well as for subsequent fixation of the structure.
• The lower door frame is used to install the lower wheels and ensure proper sliding of the doors.
• Internal door filler (wood, glass, mirror) performs decorative function, gives the entire interior a touch of individuality.
• The seal attached to the vertical side profiles, in addition to softening the impact of the door on the cabinet wall, protects the moving structure from dust.
• The door plug is used to secure the side vertical profiles.
• The assembly and adjustment screws allow you to change the sliding speed of the sashes.
• The stopper makes it possible to fix the door and avoid unintended opening of the doors.

Calculation of cabinet capacity

Any step-by-step instructions will give you confidence in the work you have started, but without a preliminary assessment of capacity, the result will be disappointing. Before drawing drawings and studying the assembly manual, decide what you will put on the shelves or hang. Then it will be difficult to move the functional sections; a beautiful-looking cabinet can become a source of bad mood.

• to arrange things according to the season, provide for outerwear at least 2 sections;
• when installing recessed lamps, the upper horizon of the cabinet is moved forward by 12-17 cm;
• not only convenient, but also functional when the depth of the shelves is at least 60 cm;
• shelf widths of more than 65 cm increase the risk of them sagging;
• the intershelf distance should be no more than 35 cm;
• accept a door width of 50 cm; smaller sizes may cause the guides to fall out;
• the number of functional compartments should be proportional to the number of sashes;
• When designing the dimensions of drawers, pay special attention to the location of the door frames; if they are too wide, it will be impossible to reach them;
• doors must be the same width;
• depends on the thickness of the chipboard appearance and cabinet strength;
• The material for the roof, side walls, and doors will be chipboard; the back wall can be made of fiberboard 3 mm thick.

The most practical option is the production of a built-in radius wardrobe. This design will easily blend with the walls, hide possible defects, and require less material consumption and time. Housewives will appreciate the absence of gaps between the wall and the cabinet, where dust constantly accumulates

Assembling the closet

To install the designed cabinet you will definitely need:

• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• square;
• drill;
• pencil.

Before you begin assembling the structure, also make sure you have:

• drawings;
• furniture board in 18 mm;
• doors and guides;
• “insides” of the cabinet (drawers, hangers, handles);
• door fittings, screws, dowels;
• side, bottom and top false panels.

Step-by-step assembly order:

1. Taking measurements and drawing “on the ground” where the cabinet will be installed (you will need a pencil and a level). Vertical posts are marked on the wall, profiles are marked on the floor and ceiling.
2. Determining the location for the shelves, drilling holes for the dowels, hammering them in with a hammer.
3. Fastening profiles for shelves to the wall, installing their lower holders.
4. Marking the mezzanine shelf and fastening it with self-tapping screws.
5. Adjusting the side wall to size and installing it.
6. Installation of internal “filling” (shelves, drawers, etc.).
7. Installation of pre-prepared false panels, attaching them to the floor, ceiling, side wall with a screwdriver.
8. Cutting and bending the upper and lower profiles (don’t forget to insert 1 stopper per door), attaching them with screws to the false panel.
9. Installation of the assembled door. The description of the actions is as follows:

• decorating with self-adhesive film (if necessary),
• installation of vertical profiles with screws,
• installing a door seal,
• securing the upper and lower door frames,
• attaching the bottom and top of the rollers,
• inserting the top guide, then the bottom,
• checking the correct sliding, adjusting it (if required) with a hexagon.

Corner cupboard You can do it yourself in one day or even in a few hours. It all depends on the skills of the performer and the quality of the instrument used. Even a beginner who has never dealt with creating furniture can do this task.

A corner cabinet is a convenient piece of furniture that allows you to store things and at the same time save space. The dimensions of the product depend on where it is planned to be installed. For example, for a small room they make narrow products with hinged doors, but if there is enough space, you can afford a full-fledged wardrobe.

Tools, materials and general operating principle

The work will require the following tools and consumables:

• carpentry boards (humidity no more than 15%), chipboard or plasterboard;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• sandpaper or angle grinder;
• paint and varnish products and tools for their application;
• furniture conductor;
• dowels;
• wood glue or PVA;
• hinges or guides, depending on the selected type of opening;
• door handles and other fittings;
• furniture edge (for chipboard);
• plywood or fiberboard (for the back wall);
• measuring instruments.

You can make a corner cabinet with your own hands from wood, chipboard or plasterboard. The principle of working with the first two materials is the same, the only difference is that chipboard does not require additional processing. A plasterboard cabinet will cost as little as possible, but it is necessary to create a clear drawing that will correspond to the specific installation location.

Cabinet made of wood or chipboard: step-by-step guides

The number, height and location of shelves can be changed at your own discretion. The presented drawings suggest the possibility of choosing doors - you can make both hinged and sliding ones.

Regardless of which drawing is selected, there is a general order of work. Step-by-step instruction:

1. Preparing parts.
   • Preparation of walls.
     • The canvases are cut out in accordance with the sizes suggested by the selected patterns.
     • Wooden materials if necessary, leveled, then sanded.
     • Holes are made on the canvases for subsequent fastening of the parts together with screws. For this purpose, a furniture jig is used - it will allow you to clearly observe the indentations and prevent the recesses from mismatching.
     • If there are shelves in the wall, then the easiest way to attach them is to put them on dowels. Blind holes are made in the walls for them. Depth – half the length of the dowel. Installation is done using glue.
     • Wooden walls are covered with paint and varnish. If the cabinet is made of chipboard, then you need to attach a furniture edge to the end - a special tape that will protect the material from moisture.
   • Making shelves and other cabinet parts. The work is done in the same order.
2. Cabinet assembly. If all the parts are made correctly, then assembly will not be difficult.

If you are making a cabinet out of wood, it is important to take your time and let the paintwork dry.

How to make a cabinet from plasterboard

Only a built-in wardrobe can be made from plasterboard. This material is not structural, but finishing; its sheets cannot be fastened together - any connection will be unreliable. Therefore, furniture made of gypsum board is created according to a different principle than furniture made of wood or chipboard. First of all, a frame is created onto which the material is subsequently sewn.

For work you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Metal corners. You can also use wooden slats, but this is a more labor-intensive option and less reliable.
• Jigsaw.
• Hardware.
• Fasteners for connecting metal corners.
• Measuring tools, level.
• Paint and tools for applying it.

Instructions:

1. Planning. It is necessary to create a drawing for a specific installation location. In this case, you can use existing drawings. Schemes should be as detailed and accurate as possible. If you can’t do them yourself, it’s better to ask a specialist.
2. Marking. The most important stage of work. It is necessary to note the location of all frame slats. The “evenness” of the future cabinet directly depends on the accuracy of the markings. Therefore, everything needs to be drawn, controlling the level. It should be remembered that measuring seven times is much easier and faster than assembling a crooked cabinet, and then dismantling it and doing all the work again.
3. Frame assembly. The corners are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws and fastened together using special fasteners. Everything needs to be controlled by level. At this stage, the curvature can still be corrected.
4. Carrying out lighting. If it is provided, then before creating the housing it is necessary to run all the wires and make conclusions for the light bulbs.

1. Creation of the corpus.
   • Drywall is cut to fit the ruler using a sharp knife.
   • Sewing plasterboard sheets. They are attached using special gypsum-metal or gypsum-wood self-tapping screws (depending on what the frame is made of).
2. Strengthening corners. They are the most vulnerable point of the structure. To prevent the cabinet from chipping at the edges and to prevent gypsum dust from appearing in the house, it is necessary to protect it with a corner metal profile. A layer of plaster is placed on top of it.
3. Doors are made of chipboard or wood. It is better to give preference to a sliding wardrobe, since attaching the hinges is more problematic. After the products are created, the guides are installed and the doors themselves are installed on them.
4. Painting the product in the desired color.

The most important thing in a home is comfort. And one of its main attributes is the sofa.

The corner sofa is very convenient due to its shape, as it can easily be placed in almost any room. You can store a variety of things in it, or use it instead of a closet or pantry. A sofa is a very necessary and useful thing in any home.

An important factor is that by making a sofa with your own hands, you can save a decent amount of money rather than buying it in a store.
When making a corner sofa for the first time, it would be better to make the most simplified version. You should choose simple shapes, without semicircles and ovals.

So, you need to start making a sofa with sketches of drawings of its expected shape and size.

To make the frame you will need:
- plywood
- wooden boards and beams
- chipboards (chipboards)
- fibreboards (fibreboard)
- and oriented strand boards (OSB)

For soft parts and upholstery, we will need:
- foam rubber
- padding polyester
- and batting

In general, the material can be replaced with any other available options.

The frame must be screwed from the back with self-tapping screws or corner metal plates. The width of the board should be approximately 20 to 25 cm.

Cover top part box, there are several options:
- Tightly twist the OSB sheets or fill the binding with rope straps, and then lay the foam cushion on top.
- Glue the foam rubber onto the OSB and make a one-piece seat cover, which will need to be attached to the frame using hinges. And then make it like a niche.
- Or a third option, in which you can use the previous two: one half needs to be hammered in, and the second one needs to be lifted.