Drawing of the manufacturing technology of a frame panel door. Manufacturing of paneled doors. We make a shield for the panel. Preparation of material

Elegant wooden paneled structures are a decoration for any home, especially if they are made soundly, with high quality, and with love. If you work well with wood, and you have a hand router and a lot of patience, then it will be quite possible to implement plans for producing a non-industrial version of a paneled structure at home with your own hands. In the photo you can see an approximate process technology.

Properly assembled structures are made up of special wooden planks, called panels, and a good-quality frame that forms the basis of the structure. One is inserted into the other according to the tenon-groove principle. In principle, structures of this type can be made from any materials, but wood is the most rewarding.

A paneled door is not the easiest option to make yourself. It would be much easier to take a monolithic shield. This is purely a matter of the owner's taste. If you feel strong enough to do such intricate work, then prepare your workplace accordingly. All necessary cutters should always be at hand.

In addition to a hand router (cutter diameter 12 mm, machine parameters, especially the collet, must correspond to this), when manufacturing a paneled structure you will need:

• two end mills for the production of strapping;
• The fig bevel of a high-quality panel is made with a special cutter;
• cutter connecting elements along its axis;

The following materials are also required:

1. Strapping bars. Approximate thickness - 19mm, length - 57mm. For each doorway these characteristics are calculated separately.
2. Furniture board. The basis of the whole idea. Its thickness is standard - 16 mm.
3. Wooden blocks are in abundance. This is necessary for a “margin of safety”. Mistakes happen to everyone.
4. Varnish. This element is optional. Perhaps you will varnish at another time.
5. Glue. Required material.

When making a paneled structure at home, there is a little trick: it is not necessary that all structural elements must be made of solid wood. For internal parts hidden under the skin, you can use chipboard.

Manufacturing stages

1. Strapping bars. A very important part is cutting the profile along the axis. A test cut is specially performed in order to ensure the quality and accuracy of the connection between the profile blocks and the counter-profile blocks.

Each of the bars is laid face down. Next, the longitudinal profiles are milled on all sides using a hand router, and the counter-profiles are milled with a special counter-profile cutter from the end part. You can watch this process in more detail in the video. To add individuality to the work, the front part can be processed on a milling machine.

1. Shield splicing. The number of panels in a paneled structure is thought out in advance. How they should be located and how much space they should take up. Will there be slabs, a fan-shaped window, etc. at the top?

Once the decision has been made, they proceed to the manufacture of individual panels. The thickness of each element, naturally, should be less than the thickness of the bars. In order to process the edges of the finished product, a hand router is centered on the thickness of the part and I process each surface separately. In this case, some need to be processed in a face down position, others - up. This will depend on which side of the structure the panel will be located on. When joining elements, their thickness is of paramount importance, since it is an indicator of how accurately the panel will sit in the desired groove. Good execution of each element is the key to success. There is no need to rush; if there is any uncertainty about the parameters, you should refer to the rough workpiece.

The milled tenon should fit into the groove of the strapping easily, without pressure. It would be a good idea to verify this using a rough part. With the above parameters of the edged bars, the tenon should have a size of about 8 mm.

When processing the edge of the panel, an edge called figaree is obtained. It is recommended to use a hand router to make two or three approaches, removing not very significant layers of wood, checking the groove each time. During factory production, at this stage, a selection of cylindrical scants with a special corrugated surface is made, which speeds up the process. This cannot be boasted at home, so the process of cutting grooves and tenons will take some time and must be perfected to the smallest detail.

1. Gluing and varnishing. The last steps: inserting all the panels into the required grooves of the bars, gluing the parts together and varnishing. It is important not to overdo it here. It is not necessary to grind paneled structures with this manufacturing technology.

Installation of panel doors

To install a paneled structure in a doorway, it is necessary to make a frame. If you have mastered the door, then making a box with your own hands will not be difficult for you. The box consists of four bars, pairs of the same length: two racks, the upper and lower bars of the box. It is made in accordance with the parameters of the doorway. It is more logical to make it with the same tongue-and-groove connection as the door itself.

When making a box, it is necessary to think over the overall design of the lower threshold and the upper part of the box. All decorative elements also need to be thought out in advance. Their manufacture at a later stage is a big risk, since after installation of the structure they may be damaged.

So, after the box is assembled, hinges are attached to the paneled panel structure (after all, every handyman has a drill and self-tapping screws hidden under the hollow). Wedges are driven into the grooves of the already manufactured and assembled structure for greater fixation.

Install in the right place the lock of the cylinder lock, the lock of the mortise lock with a escutcheon (usually both types of locks are used, but here everything is at your discretion). You can limit yourself to only a mortise lock. Next, the hinges of the structure are attached to the box and moved to the side. If the paneled door doesn't fall, it's a victory. If the weight of the structure is too large, then you need to change the hinges, make them more massive and durable.

At home, making and installing a paneled door is not as difficult as it seems. It is important to have a hand router on hand, bars of the required thickness and not be afraid to experiment with grooves. Always use a rough blank for trial work.

The basis of a paneled door is a frame made of smooth and dry boards 30-54 mm thick, assembled into a tenon. As a rule, piping with a thickness of 54 mm is used only for doors with a height of 2300 mm, entrance doors from the staircase to the apartment and external doors (Fig. 26, a). The width of the strapping boards is 90-150 mm. To facilitate the design, the harness can be assembled from two frames (external and internal), covered with fiberboard or plywood (Fig. 26, b). In this case, the elements of the outer and inner frames must be connected to each other using glue and dowels.

How to make paneled doors with your own hands - video

Rice. 26. Frame door trim design: a - solid, b - lightweight slatted

Panels are inserted and secured into the trim windows, which are made either flat or with figured decorative recesses (figares). A decorative overlay can be attached to the base of the flat panel, which can be additionally trimmed along the edges with slats. Panels of the so-called classic type are made from planed and press-glued boards of the same thickness as the trim. The panels are attached to the frame with wooden slats or corners, as well as in a tongue and groove. In the first case, a quarter can be selected in the binding, and then the panels are secured with a glazing bead on only one side; in the second, the edges of the panel are folded so that the narrow ridge fits into the groove of the binding. The frame can be smooth, then the edging slats are stuffed on both sides. In this case, a regular overhead fillet may move due to shrinkage of the canvas, and Unpainted stripes will appear on the painted surface. This can be avoided if you use a wide convex plinth, which is overlapped on the frame (Fig. 27).

Rice. 27. Installation of panels: a - fastening with a wide convex plinth overlapping
on the harness, b - fastening with a narrow plinth; c - fastening the glass with a square:
1 - door frame; 2 - glass; 3 - square; 4 - nail; 5 - hammer; 6 - gasket

Instead of wooden panels, glass can be installed in the doors. Installing glass in door windows is somewhat different from glazing conventional windows. Typically, glass in a door frame is secured not with glazing beads in the folds, but with the help of wooden (sometimes plastic) angles (Fig. 27, c). This method of fastening, among other things, allows you to hide the untreated surface of the inner frame. After making the squares of the required size, they are installed in place without glass. This is necessary to check that the gap width and glass thickness match.
First, attach the angles to one side of the door. Nails without heads are recessed into the body of the corners. You can lubricate the inner surface of the angles with glue. Then the door is turned over and glass is installed. The glass in the frame must be fixed using glued wood chips or putty. The putty is prepared from wood sawdust mixed with PVA glue. After fixing the glass, install the angles on the other side.

When driving nails into squares, special care must be taken. To protect the glass from scratches, a sheet of cardboard or veneer is placed between the glass and the hammer, along which the hammer is moved. Recess the nails into the body of the square by 0.5-1 mm using a flat-blade screwdriver. The door remains in a horizontal position for 2-3 hours until the glue dries completely.

Door with panel edging with glazing beads

First, calculate the dimensions of the door and make a drawing of it. They start by measuring the doorway: width - from one side trim to the other, height - from the top trim to the finished floor. The obtained values ​​determine the dimensions of the door parts. The assembled door is adjusted to the opening after manufacturing.

In the picture shown rice. 28 doors with four panels, the width of the upper crossbar should be 120mm, the lock - 200mm, the bottom - 250mm, the longitudinal links - 120mm, the mullions - 115mm. With these dimensions, a door handle can be installed on the longitudinal link at a distance of 70mm from its edge.

Rice. 28. Door with edged panels: a - general view; 6 - panel sealing;
c - top view; d - jig for dowels: 1 - upper cross member; 2 - stand;
3 - upper middle; 4 - lock cross member; 5 - lower cross member;
6 - dowels 12 x 100 mm; 7 - sockets for dowels; 8 - lower middle; 9 - panel;
10 - glazing bead; 11 - panel ridge; 12 - gap 3 mm; 13 - cord made of insulating foam;
14 - door frame; 15 - clamp; 16 - wall; 17 - platband; 18 - jamb;
19 - cheeks 12x40x250 mm; 20 - center line of hole

A good door requires good material. Any straight-grain, oven-dried wood will do. For crossbars, longitudinal connections and mullions you will need blanks 50mm thick, and for panels it is better to take MDF boards. This material is very stable and prevents panels from swelling or shrinking due to changes in humidity. If it was not possible to find wide enough boards for the bottom and lock crossbars, they can be glued together from 2-3 narrow parts. The same is done when making panels from solid wood.
On the cross members and longitudinal braces, use a jointer to remove all warped and damaged areas. These parts must be completely flat, with parallel faces along their entire length. Their thickness is adjusted by planing to 37mm. The remaining 1mm allowance per side is needed for final planing and sanding. Then plan the boards to the desired width and saw them to length. Boards for longitudinal connections are sawn off with an allowance of 25 mm per side. It will be useful for adjustment when hanging.
Cross members and mullions are laid out on a flat surface. At the top of the future door, a centerpiece is placed so that it lies in the middle of the crossbar. In order not to confuse the parts or their front sides later, the blanks are marked. The layout is finally checked with a square. One edge of the square is brought end to end to the middle, the end of the cross member is moved flush with the other edge and the cross member is pressed. The same operation is performed on the other side of the mullion. Having completed the alignment, marks are made on the internal edges of the cross member for the abutment points of the centerpiece. Similarly, mark the position of the mullions on the lock and bottom crossbars.

To work with dowels, use a conductor . Its use allows you to automatically align dowels and minimize the number of measurements and marking lines. To make the jig, a block 250 mm long is sawed off, the thickness matching the thickness of the frame, and at a distance of 30 mm from the end of the block and exactly in the middle of its longitudinal axis, a through hole with a diameter of 12 mm is drilled vertically with a feather drill (Fig. 28, d). After this, the cheeks are glued and nailed, on which the location of the hole axis is marked.
When drilling holes for dowels to a depth of 55 mm, the jig is placed on the end of the part and the sockets are drilled through the hole in the jig. To transfer the required distance from the edge of the workpiece or between the axes of the dowels, appropriate pencil marks are made on the jig.
To avoid mistakes when marking the joints of crossbars with longitudinal bracings, the mullions are clamped between the ends of the crossbars and this assembly is laid on a vertical strapping post. Then the position of the crossbars is marked on the edges of the rack. Now you need to mark the axes of the holes for the middle dowels on the lock and bottom crossbars. To do this, install a jig with a guide hole in the middle of the end of the lock crossbar. Mark on the jig where the top edge of the cross member coincides with the overhanging part of the jig, and make a mark “A”. Drill a hole. Install the jig along mark “A” to the corresponding mark on the vertical stand and also drill a hole
The same operations are performed with the lower cross member. But it is wider, so they make another mark on the conductor - “B”. Taking a mark from the bottom edge or face of the cross member, transfer it to the bottom mark on the rack.

To ensure the strength of the connections, homemade oak dowels with a diameter of 12 x 100 mm are needed. To remove excess glue and air from the joint, two longitudinal channels are sawn through each dowel, the edges of the dowels are chamfered and the fit to the holes is checked.
Glue is applied to all dowels and introduced into all holes of the crossbars and mullions. Press the parts together and place vertical posts under the ends of the crossbars. Install the ribs of the crossbars according to the marks on the racks. If all angles are right, the cross members will line up exactly with the marks on the uprights. If not, lightly press one end of the rack and watch how the crossbar moves relative to the mark. Adjust the position of the jumpers with clamps so that they align with the marks in all four corners.
After gluing the crossbars and mullions, you can connect the vertical posts on the dowels. Place one clamp above and below each cross member. Check the flatness of the assembly. To maintain horizontality, spacers are placed under the lower clamp of each cross member, controlling the flatness of all frame elements using a ruler or long level. All deflections are compensated with gaskets, aligning the parts.
While the frame is drying, you can work on the panels. They are cut 6 mm less in height and width than the frame openings, that is, a 3 mm gap is obtained around the perimeter. It is needed to compensate for changes in the size of the panel due to changes in humidity. A 10mm thick ridge is selected along the perimeter of the panel. If the panels are made of thin material, such as fiberboard or plywood, a comb is, of course, not needed. But in any case, the edges must be chamfered. It is best to do this with a shaped cutter, achieving minimal chipping of the material at the ends.

Before installing the panels, it is worth adjusting the door to the opening. One frame is lighter than the assembled door and is easier to work with. First, install the frame in the opening and wedge it evenly with wedges. Having noted all the defects on its edges, provide a 3mm gap between the frame and the floor. Remove the frame from the opening, carefully plan out the defective areas and check the fit again. If the necessary clearances are provided, remove the frame and cut a 5° bevel on the edges of the vertical posts (Fig. 28, c). These bevels will ensure the door opens and closes freely.
Now you can attach the panels to the frame. To do this, you will need 10 x 10mm glazing beads, cut from an oak edging strip. The glazing beads are trimmed “on the bevel” and the door is prepared for finishing. Intersecting parts are cleaned or planed flush. Sand all door parts (panels, frame and glazing beads) with 150-grit sandpaper and then 220-grit sandpaper. Varnish them before assembly.
After the varnish has dried, edging beads are nailed to the inner edges of the door frame flush with the outer plane using nails 15 mm long. To avoid splitting the wood, auxiliary holes are drilled for all nails. Turn the door over to the other side and lay the panels. Between the ridge of the latter and the door frame, pieces of cord with a diameter of 6 mm made of insulating foam are laid, which will fix the panel. After this, the panels are fixed with the remaining glazing beads. The final finishing coat is then applied. They hang the door and lock it.

This door also has four panels, but unlike the previous one, its frame is assembled on spikes (Fig. 29).

Rice. 29. Door with panels in grooves;
a - general view; b - d - tenon joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars:
1 - racks; 2 - upper cross member; 3 - lock cross member; 4 - bottom
crossbar; 5 - upper middle; 6 - lower middle; 7 - upper panel;
8 - lower panel; 9 - key 24 x 60 mm; 10 - groove 12 x 12 mm

Pine boards with a moisture content of approximately 7% are suitable for work. At such humidity, the subsequent change in frame dimensions will be minimal. Given in table. 5 The dimensions of the parts required for the manufacture of one door with dimensions of 750 x 2030 mm can be easily changed for a door with other dimensions.

First, all workpieces are roughly sawed out in length and width. Then, in the middle of the long ribs of the posts, mullions and cross members, you need to cut out 12x12mm grooves. The mullions and lock crossbar should have grooves on both sides, while the remaining parts should have grooves only on the inside. The grooves can be selected with a chisel, tongue and groove, milling cutter, or cut out on a circular saw with a package of 10mm thick discs placed 12mm above the table. Place the disk on the workpiece and cut a groove in one of the parts, pressing the workpiece tightly against the ruler. Unfold the workpiece at the other end and once again run the rack through the disk pack. As a result, in the middle of the part you will get a groove 12mm wide and 12mm deep. Before processing the rack, check the cut on the cutting board.
The grooves in the strapping can also be selected with a milling cutter of the required thickness or made manually. In the latter case, two grooves are planed out with a tongue and groove tool, then the middle between the cuts is removed with a chisel.

Now you need to mark and make tenons and grooves in the frame elements. The grooves must be parallel to the face of the workpiece and have a depth of 60 mm. The tenon should be of such a size that it fits tightly into the groove by hand without being forced into place with a hammer. To make it easier to insert the tenons into the rounded corners of the grooves, grind off their outer corners with cloth-based sandpaper. It is necessary to evenly round the ends of the tenon so that they match the shape of the groove in the rack. The strength of this connection depends on the fit of the tenon to the groove - the more closely they fit, the stronger the connection will be.
Having fitted the grooves and tenons tightly, the door frame can be assembled dry and checked for squareness. Measure the diagonals between opposite corners and if they are the same, the door will be rectangular. When assembling the frame, at the intersection of the mullions and the centers of the crossbars, to align them, insert four 24 x 60mm dowels.
Measure the distance in the windows between the frame elements and determine the dimensions of the panels. Cut the MDF panels to size and give them volume by hand or with a router, forming 12 x 12mm ridges around the perimeter.

Before gluing and clamping the finished door make the necessary adjustments to all parts and check its squareness again by measuring the diagonals. The door with glued tenons and inserted panels is placed in a wedge press or a set of clamps and tightened. At this time, when tightening the clamps, make sure that the door remains level. Leave the door clamped in the clamps for a day to prevent the parts from moving until the glue is guaranteed to cure.
Hang the finished door and nail it to the frame as described above. To prevent knots from showing through the paint, coat the door with two coats of shellac-based primer and finish with two coats of oil-based semi-gloss paint.

How to make a barbecue out of brick for your dacha with your own hands. Photo. Blueprints. Scheme. Vida

How to properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands. Video, photo

Do-it-yourself pile foundation. Device, video, technology

DIY sliding (sliding, retractable) interior doors

How to properly assemble and install a door frame with your own hands. Videos, tips

How to make a brick strip foundation with your own hands

Do-it-yourself attic design and arrangement. Video, photo, options

Do-it-yourself basement at home. Video, photo

Replacing, repairing, strengthening the old foundation of a house with your own hands

Laying laminate flooring with your own hands. Video, photo, instructions

Doors are made from boards, furniture panels or beams according to pre-prepared drawings. To understand what and how wooden doors are made of, let’s get acquainted with their varieties.

Types of doors by design

A solid wood box has the following advantages:

At the same time, wooden canvas has the following features:

• unprocessed raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
• presence of cracks and knots;
• flammability.

To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnations.

Massive doors

Before making wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the features of the production process. The dacha can be protected from robbers by a massive canvas, for the manufacture of which thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards are used. The resulting structure is strengthened with horizontal or inclined jumpers.

To make a massive entrance door, cedar, larch or oak are used. This type of wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.

If the project of a summer cottage includes a bathhouse, then linden and pine are used to arrange the opening. The bathhouse must be used after treating the wood with an antiseptic.

Paneled doors

To make paneled fabric, boards and beams obtained by gluing lamellas are used. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before constructing the canvas, a drawing is prepared. It indicates the configuration of the panels. It can be the same or different. Glass can be used instead of wooden elements.

To equip the vertical and transverse elements, you will need to glue the timber. To make the canvas, a floorboard of appropriate thickness is used. To fix individual elements, spikes are used.

If a panel is used to make the canvas, you need to consider:

• The reliability of the product is directly affected by the number of cross-sections;
• a homemade box is formed from timber, and a lath or plastic is used to make a panel;
• glazing bead is used to fix panels.

Since the paneled door is thin, it is considered the best option for arranging an interior doorway.

Panel doors

The panel box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. Fiberboard, MDF or chipboard sheets are used as a shield.

The canvases under consideration are classified into the following types:

• solid - filled with beams fastened together;
• hollow - made from side and transverse beams. Lining is used for cladding;
• small-hollow - have different fillings.

To create a high-quality canvas yourself, the frame is first covered with plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. Size of 1 layer – 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating.

Tools for work

Tools you will need:

• to create grooves and holes, you will need a router;
• hacksaw;
• to sand the ends of the doors, you will need a plane;
• chisels;
• hammer;
• screwdriver

To assemble the doors you will need the following materials:

• tongue and groove boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue.

The purchased wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Selection of lumber

Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan for the upcoming work is drawn up. Particular attention is paid to the selection of boards. The following criteria are taken into account:

• financial opportunities;
• acquisition of “industrial wood”;
• residual humidity – 15%;
• checking the evenness of the material;
• board thickness – 25-50 mm;
• the array is polished.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Any step-by-step plan for manufacturing a door involves assembling a shield. If the installation of the canvas in the bathhouse is planned, then a simple assembly of the shield is carried out. To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. A warm box for the home is made taking into account aesthetics. The assembled shield is polished.

Making a door from solid wood

The step-by-step plan for assembling the canvas includes the correct choice of consumables. To make a shield, you will need tongue and groove boards more than 25 mm thick. Then the consumable material is cut into pieces.

When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. To connect tongue and groove boards, a tongue-and-groove lock and wood glue are used. If the consumable material is non-grooved boards, then they are assembled using glue.

The work is carried out on a large surface area. The assembled coating is pressed with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is processed with a milling cutter. To ensure good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble a shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.

For tying, crossbars are used, installed at the top, middle and bottom of the covering. Markings for grooves are made on the canvas. The recesses made should be ½ the thickness of the consumable material.

Holes are cut using a router. It is more difficult to cut grooves by hand. For this you will need a chisel. A rubber hammer is used to insert the cross member. If you plan to apply a drawing to the resulting shield, first trace its outline using a pencil according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.

Then the canvas is painted with pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Markings are made on the canvas and the box for installing hinges. The markings for the handle and lock are done in the same way. The last stage is hanging the canvas into the opening.

Manufacturing of a panel door

The instructions for making a shield sheet allow you to use finely filled boards. Experts distinguish 3 methods for assembling such a design:

• preliminary assembly of the frame with subsequent filling of its internal space. Using this technology, you can create a solid or finely filled shield;
• separate production of the shield with its subsequent fixation into the frame. The last stage is covering with finishing material;
• The manufactured shield is mounted in a frame and lined.

To assemble the canvas using the first method, primary tying is carried out. It will determine the size of the future door. The structure uses timber with a cross section of 30×120 mm. Consumables are cut to fit the dimensions of the future structure.

The next step is choosing the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the “half-tree” method. Accurate marking of future grooves is an important stage in shield assembly.

All grooves are coated with glue. The connection of the timber is carried out on a flat but large area. If the glue has dried, the connections are fixed with dowels. To do this, make through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

Plywood or fiberboard is used to cover the frame. The markings are made and the frame is removed. The frame returns to its original place. It must be pressed against the facing material treated with glue.

MDF is used to fill the interior space. It is glued to the bottom sheet of finishing material. But first the glue must dry well. At the same time, it is recommended to prepare consumables for the outer lining of the canvas.

If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or SF. The resulting structure is sent under the press.

You can cover the door with natural wooden slats. They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface is dry, it is treated with sandpaper. All corners and ends are processed with a milling cutter. Into the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in a corresponding frame.

A frame door is made using a similar method - the interior space is additionally reinforced with beams. But before starting work, accurate calculations are carried out and a drawing is prepared.

Making a paneled door

To make a paneled door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. The components of the structure are made of plywood and solid boards. A drawing is pre-prepared, on which 4 panels are marked.

The frame is made of timber. It is pre-processed with a milling cutter. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Tenons are cut out on the crossbars, and the edges are processed with a router. Panels and mullions are inserted into the grooves.

The end part of the coating, which will extend to the end of the canvas, must be flat. Slots are made in the vertical elements to assemble the structure.

To make panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some panel elements are replaced with glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat plane are mounted and framed with glazing beads.

Otherwise, the panels are processed with a router. In this way a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used to make panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic and dried.

All parts are assembled into a single structure on a flat surface, and each spike is coated with special glue. Step-by-step door assembly:

• gluing crossbars into the grooves of vertical beams;
• installation of mullions;
• installation of the remaining panels;
• gluing vertical beams;
• fixing glazing beads for finishing.

To install the tenons into the grooves, use a rubberized hammer. The canvas is padded from the sides. A construction angle is used to check corners. The covering is compressed with clamps.

Markings are made on the canvas for installing hinges and a handle with a lock. Installation of fittings is carried out after completion of finishing work. For finishing, acrylic paint is used. To obtain a dark finish, stain is used.

Insulation and sound insulation

Painting

At the next stage, the finished structure is processed and decorated. It is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

• processing the coating with sandpaper or a grinding machine;
• impregnation of wood with antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. The processing is then repeated;
• the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each applied layer must dry well. This will take about 2 days;
• Paint, varnish, and stain are used to finish the coating. The stain must be applied over the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the appropriate number of layers of stain is applied. Each layer will take 4 hours to dry. To fix the result, the stain is coated with two layers of varnish.

Paneled canvases are becoming popular. Almost anyone can make them at home. To ensure that the material chosen for the job is not wasted, think through the subtleties that the door will have, including even minor details.

Product selection

Peculiarities

Before you start designing a door, thoroughly understand its structure. Find out what features it has. The main difference between such doors is the presence of inserts that make the product sophisticated and elegant.

Attention! Due to the fact that special technology is used in the production process, the door becomes not only reliable, but also elegant.

Installation and its varieties:

• A blank sheet made of plywood. It consists of elements made from sheets of plywood, fixed inside with self-tapping screws;

• With glass inserts. Glass inserts are used to fill the canvas. The canvas looks decorative and is light in weight.

• Made of wood. This design is considered durable and reliable. The insert in this case is made from thin wooden sheets, but it should be noted that this way the production costs a large sum of money.

The technological manufacturing process is that the frame and insert are connected to each other. This is done using special fastenings with glazing beads. Manufacturing also involves other types of fastenings.

Tools and materials needed during the work process

In order for the technological process of making a door to be carried out correctly, theoretical knowledge will be required, as well as materials for the work.

To work you need:

1. A hacksaw, which is used to work on wooden material;
2. Screwdrivers of different diameters;
3. A simple pencil and tape measure for measuring;
4. Fine to medium sandpaper.

Before you start work, you should clearly decide on the material from which the door will be made. For strength, you need high-quality wood species that have high resistance to any factors. Oak or ash are perfect for work. In addition, production can be made from pine. This material is also of high quality and low cost.

The panel is often made from plywood, due to which the final structure has insignificant mass and low cost. To achieve decorative qualities, use glass inserts.

Important! If you use frosted or additionally decorated glass to decorate your door, this will transform your home as a whole.

Materials for work:

• Initially, a frame is made, for which boards of sufficient thickness are used;
• Plywood for panels. During operation, this element can be replaced with glass. If you initially plan to use glass, consider having glazing beads;
• To make the initial preparation, glue and screws are used;
• Door fittings;
• Materials used for finishing painting.

Step-by-step instruction

First of all, measure the doorway. Build a box using a wooden beam. Currently, all blanks are sold on the construction market. This way you will save time and money.

Once the box is in place, fix it in the required position. To do this, the structure must be accurately measured.

Panel and its production

If the work is supposed to be done from an array, then you need to start preparing the sheets according to pre-made measurements. To make the assembly process easier, use the tongue-and-groove connection method.

Attention! If the workpieces are connected using glazing beads, then the assembly sequence will not matter at all.

If the door is equipped with glass inserts, then for a beautiful appearance many designers recommend using colored glass or one that is additionally decorated with film. In addition, if you use, for example, stained glass, the design can fit perfectly into absolutely any interior.

Benefits of DIY

If during the renovation process you and your whole family decided to install doors, this does not mean that you should go to the store to buy the finished product. For those who have at least some skills in home craftsmanship, it will not be difficult for them to build it themselves, without resorting to outside help.

Let's look at the advantages of making it yourself:

• Price. When you make it yourself, you will save a significant amount of money compared to the ready-made version presented in the store;
• When installing it yourself, you do not need to make additional adjustments, since the measurements taken will initially come to the rescue;
• The paneled version of the installation differs from its analogues mainly in that it is less exposed to external influences and is practically unaffected by various temperature indicators.

Help with decoration

After making the door, the last stage is decoration. Such manipulations are carried out not only for aesthetic reasons, but also in order to enhance the strength and reliability of the canvas. When using natural wood, the surface is covered with stain or varnish. With the help of such impregnation, a film is created that protects the material. The varnish also protects the finished product from high humidity.

In addition to these types of processing, you can use a paint coating, for example, in some neutral or, on the contrary, extraordinary color (if the interior requires it). If this option is not suitable, then it is possible to finish it with veneer or, for example, decorative film.

The option of creating a contrast between the door and the panel is often used. That is, you can paint the vertical and transverse planks, and decorate the existing inserts with an unusual pattern or paint them in a different color scheme.

If you pay attention to the presence of glass, you can also decorate it yourself. For this purpose, special decorative materials are used. You can create a unique design or an unusual stained glass window. If you wish, you can depict family photographs or other pictures you like that bring positive emotions every day.

Making beautiful doors yourself is easy and without the help of qualified specialists. They will have not only a functional character, but also a decorative one, as they will express the individuality of their owner. In addition, you will be able to show not only your true skills, but also please your entire family and friends.

And see how the manufacturing process takes place and all its details in our video. You can take more useful information from it.

Interior doors play a very important role: they not only separate one room from another, but also set a certain tone for the interior. These designs can either emphasize the style of the room or overshadow it, attracting special attention to themselves. Despite the fact that the modern market is replete with products, buyers are increasingly purchasing paneled doors.

The popularity of such designs is quite natural and understandable. They are durable and solid, and if desired, panel doors, for example, for a summer house, can be made with your own hands.

Paneled doors are unique in that they have a supporting frame, as well as panel inserts (GOST regulates the presence of these elements). It is simply impossible to confuse such designs with another type of door system.

As a rule, the frame is made of solid wood. At the same time, the lower part of the leaf is always much wider than the sides and the upper part: thanks to this feature, the sash becomes stronger. By the way, they also produce more expensive models reinforced with sheet metal (copper, brass, polished bronze plates): usually these are entrance blocks or door systems intended for installation in a country house.

As for panel inserts, they are produced from a variety of materials: plywood, glass, MDF, etc. GOST specifies that these fragments are attached to the frame in the following way: special grooves are created in the frame into which these elements are installed, or fixation occurs using decorative beads.

According to experts, the latter option is considered more practical: if the glass insert installed in the interior doors suddenly breaks, the home craftsman can replace it with a new one with his own hands. It will not be difficult to perform such an operation even for a beginner.

Variety of models

Paneled doors are made either from solid wood or from a combined material.

The current GOST regulates the following classification of these products according to the type of material used:

1. Block made of valuable wood.
   Typically, such interior structures are made from solid hornbeam, teak, oak or walnut. The panel inserts in such models are fastened together with tenon joints, so such door systems are distinguished by high strength and durability (GOST focuses on this point).
2. Coniferous wood construction.
   The production technology provides that such a block, after manufacturing, must be coated with a special chemical composition: thanks to this, paneled doors of this type acquire excellent fire-fighting and anti-corrosion properties. Such designs are ideal for a country house or cottage.
3. Block made of combined material.
   The main advantage of this design is its low cost. The production technology of this door system is as follows (GOST reflects this production feature): veneer made of valuable wood species is glued onto an MDF frame, and the product is coated with special impregnations and varnish on top. Of course, such interior doors are not as durable as products made from valuable wood, but with careful care they can last 4-5 decades.

The current GOST also regulates the finishing of paneled structures. The finishing of doors of this type is carried out using special water-based varnishes (acrylic). These finishing products are considered more environmentally friendly, and besides, they (unlike alkyd and nitro varnishes) do not change the color of wood fibers.

Please note that the block can have either a glossy or matte finish. The matte surface has a significant drawback: dust and other contaminants are very visible on it.

The downside of a glossy surface is the fact that it hides the luxurious structure of the wood. Therefore, when choosing panel doors, experts recommend choosing semi-matte or semi-gloss products.

Advantages of panel doors

What are the parts of a paneled door called?

As you know, each door block has its own strengths and weaknesses, and paneled interior doors are no exception. The main advantage of these structures is their durability and high strength.

The second advantage is excellent sound and heat insulation. Even if the block production technology involves the use of glass or stained glass inserts, such elements are attached to the door leaf using special frames, which impart structural integrity and provide the door with excellent insulating properties. And besides, such structures are not subject to drying out: they are not afraid of sudden temperature changes and high air humidity.

Moreover, the range of such products is also diverse. For example, you can purchase white paneled doors. In addition, those door systems, the production of which is carried out using glass inserts, can vary greatly from each other: one block may have colored glass, another block may have patterned or frosted glass, etc.

And, of course, the undeniable advantage of door systems of this type is the ability to make them yourself. Do-it-yourself interior structures will eliminate the need to adjust the product to the size of the opening. And besides, such canvases can have an original design.

Self-made design

Making paneled doors with your own hands first of all requires the desire of the master, as well as the presence of certain skills in working with wood.

The home craftsman will have to stock up on a small set of tools:

• construction meter;
• pencil;
• coarse and fine-grained sandpaper;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• wood hacksaw, etc.

In addition, you will need cutters for making paneled doors, as well as the entire necessary set of materials and fittings.

The first thing you need to do is measure the doorway correctly. Errors are unacceptable, because correcting them will be very difficult. After this, they make a box with their own hands and install it (under no circumstances should there be any distortions). Then they begin to design the paneled fabric.

What is a paneled door made of?

To do this, a sketch of the future sash is drawn and all its elements are detailed. Experts recommend that a beginner start by making a canvas with six panel inserts: the production technology of such a design is much easier than any other model.

Then the required length is measured on the timber and the excess part is sawed off. This operation is performed several times with your own hands. The result should be two main side posts, two cross members (the upper and lower parts of the sash), as well as slats and internal cross members. In order to ensure tight fastening of the individual elements, grooves and tenons are made, then these parts are lubricated with wood glue and connected. In places where panels will be fixed in the future, you need to make chamfers.

If the panels for interior doors made by yourself are made of wood, it is better to use solid wood for this (this will save the home craftsman from the additional headache of creating a prefabricated chamfer). The parts are cut out of solid wood, special cuts are made along their edges, after which these elements are secured with a chamfer.

If desired, the block can be decorated with carved wooden panels. But for this, the home craftsman must have the skills to work with the special equipment used to make such an artistic ornament.

Moreover, GOST specifies that inserts can also be glass. In this case, such elements are attached to the structure using special slats and jumpers (their length depends on the size of the inserts). The technology for manufacturing paneled structures also involves the use of glass inserts with painting, however, painting on such glass must be done before the insert is installed in the block.

At the final stage of manufacturing a panel door system, you do the tinting and varnishing of the surface with your own hands.

At home, varnishing can be as follows:

• transparent (only one layer of durable varnish is applied);
• tinted (the canvas is covered with colored dye);
• painted (apply several layers of glossy or matte varnish);
• painted with a shiny finish (this effect can be achieved by applying several layers of polyurethane-based varnish to the structure).

Then, when the varnish has dried, fittings are installed on the interior doors and their installation is carried out. This design will undoubtedly become the highlight of your interior!