Many people who want to lay paving slabs on their own residential property need to familiarize themselves with the step-by-step instructions for the technological process. Paving paths and parts of the territory creates an aesthetically pleasing landscape and makes it possible to move in any direction, regardless of weather conditions.
Introduction
The duration of operation of paved areas is affected by the quality of the material used and laying technology paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or summer cottage. It is interesting to do the work yourself, receiving satisfaction from the result of the work. Not every home owner will entrust the installation of purchased raw material to invited specialists without making sure of their professionalism. By following the step-by-step sequence of the process, and the advice of the specialist in this article, the final result will be achieved.
Material selection
They vary in thickness, color, shape and wear resistance. The construction market offers products for paving that are made according to different technological specifications; these are the casting or pressing method.
- Vibrocast. It loses brightness faster and can be erased. This material is economically priced. It is laid on sections of the track with low traffic.
- Vibropressed. The pressing method makes the structure dense and resistant to wear, which guarantees quality and abrasion resistance. Used for paving access roads to parking lots.
Use the following tile thickness in millimeters:
- Pedestrian paths, sidewalks and blind areas from 25 to 40.
- The access road to the car parking is from 40 to 60.
Large sizes of material are more difficult to install. The heavy slab has to be lifted frequently to level the level. When working with small and medium-sized products, it is easier to create ornaments.
Project
The new territory of land will require preliminary layout of paths. When making markings, take into account standing objects that require approach. The shortest lines of communication are not always direct. They study paths formed naturally, if they are absent, they lay new ones, leaving them unpaved for a while. Having made sure that the map of movement on the ground is correct, they begin work on cleaning the soil.
general information
Soil characteristics
The structure of the earth influences the choice of material for the base under the tiles. Soil is divided into the following types:
- Mobile. It requires additional concrete screed, ensuring the rigidity of the created sidewalk structure.
- Dense. Limited to bulk sand.
Reserve space for pipes or cables
It is advised to complete all work on laying communications before paving the paths. It is difficult to restore their level and pattern after dismantling. It is possible to pre-lay a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters for subsequent use.
Protection against vegetation germination
Geotextiles are laid on the ground for subsequent layer-by-layer embankment or concreting. It will prevent weeds emerging from the ground from destroying the seams of the joint.
Conditions are created for the drainage of rain, melt or irrigation water
The sand base absorbs excess moisture through the joints, which cannot be said about the concrete pad. In any of the selected options, the path is made at an elevation above ground level, inclined to one side, or oval. The size of the slope is 1 centimeter or 5 degrees per 1 meter of length. Water is absorbed by concrete slowly. The lack of drainage will lead to its stagnation and cause swelling of the layers. On the side of the curb, a hollow is laid - an aryk, to drain water and drain it to a specially designated place.
Note
Laying tile products is possible under the following conditions:
- The bulk cushion dries naturally after precipitation. Excess moisture has a bad effect on the quality of surface leveling.
- Sand is used in its pure form without clay impurities.
- The planned width of the path is adjusted to the size of the paving slabs. Before forming an embankment on the ground, a model of the ornament is created according to the developed design project.
- Geometric shape, laid out in a pattern. When paving, they create a semblance of a chessboard, rhombus, fan, coil, wedge sheet, honeycomb or sleeping butterflies.
- Tiles having 3DEffect, or an illusionary three-dimensional perception of a pattern laid out with flat material.
- Artistic mess. It is created using different colors, shapes and sizes.
Tool
- Rope or nylon thread.
- Wooden stakes.
- A hammer with a rubber head (mallet).
- Level.
- Tamping.
- Master OK.
- Broom.
- Grinder for cutting material or leveling concrete base.
- Knee pads for comfortable support of the legs while working.
Preparation
Using the design of the location of the tiles and the calculated width, adjusted to the size of the material, markings are made on the ground. The stakes are driven in along the contour. On straight sections their number is limited. For round and oval shapes of areas covered by flooring, more marks are required. Stretch the thread using a level.
Before filling the mound cushion, clear the separated area of weeds, plant roots, stones, and remove the top layer of turf. The loose soil is watered and compacted with a tamper.
It is allowed to use geotextiles that prevent weeds from growing through the joints.
Laying the limiters
The border is installed in a prepared trench along the contour of the proposed paving, fixed with supports, and filled with concrete mortar. After complete hardening, the excess parts are removed and the resulting monolithic frame is sprinkled with sand or earth. The border protects the structure from deformation of the contours, fixing the initially specified parameters, and makes the drawing complete.
The material for the contour limiter is tile, stone or plastic, installed at the level of the track, or slightly higher, with a reserve for shrinkage.
On the side of the slope (slope), lay a jug for water. It is effective when there is a natural slope of the path, providing drainage.
Substrate formation
Depending on the wishes and type of soil, it is made with different material compositions. It is proposed to consider each option in more detail.
Sandy
The artificially created bed in the ground is filled. The first layer is sand, 10 cm high, then drainage bulk material. They use gravel or crushed stone, raising the level to 20 for sidewalks, and 40 centimeters for the driveway and parking lot. Clean sand is poured onto the crushed stone, in a layer of 200 millimeters or higher, depending on the thickness of the paving blank, filling the existing voids in the mass of crushed stone, and creating a base for the tile.
The base, ready for laying, is leveled and water is sprayed on top. For the top layer, fine sand is used, which provides good fixation. After lightly moistening, allow the surface to dry, then level it and maintain the angle of inclination.
Sand-cement
Both components are combined into a single composition. Make a dry solution in the following parts:
- Sand – 3.
- Cement – 1.
The mixture poured into an intermediate layer on gravel is not moistened before placing paving slabs.
Concrete
Tile paving on a reinforced base, or an existing one, is not advisable. Water does not seep into the ground at the joints; the remaining moisture crystallizes in winter, increasing in volume. These properties of the formed ice destroy the created structure, leading to deformation of individual areas.
Laying tiles
By adhering to the direction away from you, you ensure that the selected level of inclination is maintained. The master moves along the laid surface without violating the integrity of the substrate. Begin installation in the following order:
- Drawing in a circle from the center.
- All others are from the edge of the object located in the paving area.
- From the lowest point.
Leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the joint seams, fixing each subsequent form with wedges made of plastic or wood. The technological process involves deepening the side planes by 50% of the material into the base mass of sand or its mixture. Therefore, when making a substrate, take into account the thickness of the paving slabs used for flooring.
The level of control over the angle of inclination is constantly close to the worker. A stretched transverse rope becomes a guide to the height. Having laid out three rows, make control measurements. Surface convexities are corrected with a rubber mallet or wooden block. Sand or dry mixture is poured under the sagging tiles.
Move carefully along an unsecured sidewalk until the surface is completely fixed. Correct protruding material by tapping from above or from the side.
Video recommendations for proper laying of paving slabs from experts
Sealing joints
It’s not difficult to finish the work you started with your own hands. Using clean sand for the first layer, for the second filling of the openings a dry mixture with cement in a 1:1 ratio.
By vigorously directing the composition with a brush into empty spaces, they ensure the density between the tiles specified by the technological conditions. A visual assessment of the surface after cleaning off any remaining solution will help you verify the quality of the work done.
The surface is thoroughly cleaned of residues and irrigated with water. Moisture, combining with a mixture of sand and cement, spontaneously concretes the seams. Without allowing it to harden completely, the spacers are removed. After some time, re-sprinkle the surface of the path with the dry solution, evenly distributing it over the remaining openings, clean off the residue, and water it with water without pressure, using the spray method until puddles form on the surface.
Paving slabs in the country house or in the yard country house capable of performing more than just one decorative function, but also utilitarian. In order for it to look beautiful and easily withstand the load placed on it, it must be laid correctly.
Many homeowners prefer to have hired specialists handle the process, believing that they will perform all the necessary operations in the best possible way. But some people do not trust hired workers and prefer to carry out all important manipulations themselves.
How possible is it to lay paving slabs with your own hands? It is quite possible to do this, the main thing is to have step-by-step instructions at hand. It describes in detail the sequence of all upcoming operations and the order in which they are performed.
Laying the yard with paving slabs: preparation
Before starting work, you need to think it through carefully and draw up a plan. This will guarantee a long and reliable service life of the manufactured coating. Tiling the entire yard is not very rational or cost-effective. 
But paths are necessary on any site - it can be quite difficult to do without them. Therefore you need to calculate required amount paths, their size and configuration, so that they connect the residential building with various utility and other buildings.
Then, in any weather, the homeowner and his household will move along neat, clean paths. And green spaces will suffer much less.
Why paving slabs? This material is increasingly used in both industrial and private construction.
The advantages of such a road surface are obvious. The installation work is not particularly difficult. The tiles do not “float” during hot weather and do not burst from severe frost.
It looks beautiful and is easy to care for. The tiled area allows moisture to pass through well, which is beneficial for both the soil and plants.
Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles
Important notes to help you lay tiles correctly
You should not start work immediately after rain, especially during it. The soil and pad must be well dry. To prevent the tiles from starting to creep after some time, humidity levels should be minimal.
Laying paving slabs: progress of work
To carry out the work you will need cement, curbing, sand and the tile itself. The required tools are pegs, usually a tamper, a broom, nylon thread, a rubber hammer, a trowel and a level.
We start by marking the site, or rather, by determining the contour of the future path. 
The site is marked with wooden pegs, which are connected with a nylon cord. It must be properly tensioned and level, as it will become a guide when laying the tiles.
To properly arrange the base, you will have to cut and remove the layer of turf, then level the resulting surface, moisten it and compact it with a special tamper.
- If the soil is dense enough, then often it does not need such manipulations. Plant roots and stones found in the soil must be removed.
- If the soil is not removed, the path will seem to be slightly raised above the surface of the site. The consequence of this may be its erosion by rain or melt water.
- The resulting compacted bed is covered with gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm high.
- If the path is intended for the movement of cars, then this figure should be increased to 40 cm. (Geotextiles can be laid under and on the gravel).
- To level, sand is poured on top - its thickness should be approximately 2 cm.
Border for paving slabs
What is a border for? Its purpose is to prevent the tiles from spreading and highlight the path. Is its use mandatory?
No, often when laying a path with tiles they do without additional finishing. The base for the curb must be carefully leveled. It is best to place it on a special concrete castle. For paving slabs in a private area, it is quite possible to use a plastic border.
Preparing the base: options for laying paving slabs
The bases for paving slabs can be different - there are three types in total. Depending on the type of base chosen, the method of laying the tiles also changes.
On the sand. The space between the stretched cords or curbs is filled with sand. The thickness of such a pillow should be 5-6 cm. The sand is well soaked and left to dry, after which it is leveled and compacted. The tiles are placed on slightly damp sand (never wet).
On concrete. There can be two options: when a concrete base is already available, and when it is installed specifically as a substrate for tiles. This method is considered not very rational. 
The point is that the cement monolith retains water (does not allow it to pass through). It accumulates between the tiles and the base - in severe frost it freezes, causing the path to deform.
On a cement-sand cushion. Another sand layer of 3-4 cm is poured onto the prepared base (with the soil removed, leveled and compacted), and a reinforcing mesh is placed on it. Next, a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of four to one is placed on it.
Technology for laying paving slabs
The tiles should begin to be placed from the lowest point in the upward direction. Competent masonry should be carried out “on your own”.
In other words, when doing work, the specialist moves along an already laid path so as not to endanger the prepared foundation. If a circular method of installing tiles is used, then the activities begin in the center of the picture.
Individual tile elements should be placed diagonally, and not in even stripes. This will make it easier to align them during the process. First, a rope is pulled along the width of the future path, along which the initial row of material will be aligned. Every two or three times the correctness of the horizontal is verified by a level. 
The tiled element is placed in the place prepared for it, and brought to the correct position by soft tapping with a hammer.
If necessary, you can add sand underneath it. A gap of 2-3 mm left between the tiles is usually enough for moisture to escape. To ensure that the gap has the same size over the entire distance, you can use special crosses. But in practice they usually do without them.
Turnkey tile laying: grouting
In order for a hand-made path to be beautiful and wear-resistant, you will have to take care of the correct processing of the seams. They are usually filled in two steps.
First, dry sifted sand is applied to the freshly prepared path. Using a brush or broom, it is leveled over the surface and swept into the seams.
The next layer that should be poured onto the path is a sand-cement mixture or sand. They treat him the same way as the first.
Then, using a spray or other available means, the path is moistened quite intensively - until puddles appear. If there is a border, then the distance between it and the tiles is also filled with the mixture. You can purchase a factory-made mixture for joints.
In order for a paving slab path to serve for a long time, you need to know how to properly care for it. This coating does not require any special procedures: it should be swept regularly and washed occasionally.
Then she will retain her original appearance and remain elegant for as long as possible. In winter, you should protect it from damage by not using rough metal products - shovels, ice picks and crowbars.
Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in a country house perform two functions - aesthetic and utilitarian. The key to high-quality implementation of both is correct styling paving slabs.
Many people trust this to professionals, trusting that they know their job. Is this so? Will a hired worker always perform the installation better than the owner himself?
The main thing is to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.
It will be a good help step-by-step instruction, in which, in addition to the order of work, all the nuances of this rather simple and fascinating process will be revealed. Where the result appears with the first tile laid.
Preparation for laying paving slabs
Planning is the key to ensuring that your homemade path will not fail for a long time.
- Site layout. Few people decide to lay out the entire space on the site with tiles, just as it is difficult to do without paths, at least from the gate to the cottage and outbuildings. Perfect option- think over the paths to the house and from it to the main buildings on the site. This way the lawn is preserved, and there is no need to knead the dirt when it rains. In addition, you will not have to uproot trees and other perennial plantings.
- Material selection. Paving slabs are gradually gaining ground over other types of paving. The main advantages: ease of operation, the ability to dismantle the coating, does not “float” like asphalt when heated, does not burst from the cold (frost-resistant), and does not require maintenance. A path lined with paving slabs allows moisture to pass through, thereby not harming the soil (environmentally friendly).
- Tile. When choosing a tile, you need to know that according to the manufacturing method, it can be vibrocast (possibly self-production) and vibration-pressed (made in industrial conditions). Varies in color, thickness and shape. Requires a base of different composition. All these factors determine the technology for laying paving slabs.
Tile covering of paths and platforms - parameters
A comparative analysis of tiled paving is provided in the table
The type of soil also influences the choice of base for paving slabs. Movable soil requires the construction of a concrete foundation even for a pedestrian path, while dense soil allows you to get by with a sand-cement cushion even under a car.
Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
General tips and rules on how to lay paving slabs correctly:
- provide drains for water drainage. If paving slabs are laid on sand, then water will go into the gaps between the tiles, and if on a concrete base, then a transverse, longitudinal or transverse-longitudinal slope is required. Thus, water, rain or melt, will not collect between the concrete and the tiles. Consequently, the possibility of swelling of sections of the track is eliminated. Optimal slope paving slabs 1 cm by 1 meter. Please note: the gap for water drainage should be located between the curb and the tile surface;
- correlate the size of the tiles with the dimensions allocated for the path. The wider the path, the larger the tiled elements should be (subjective opinion), or vice versa, from small tiles. It would seem that large tiles will make the layout quicker and simpler, but in reality, it may turn out differently. The large dimensions of the tiles are directly reflected in the weight; the weight of paving slabs 40x40 cm is 15-16 kg (depending on thickness). As a result, such slabs are difficult to lift, move, or level. While you adjust the height, you will have to lift the weight several times to add sand;
- lay (bring up) communications before laying paving slabs. Otherwise, it will need to be dismantled and reassembled. If there is no need for communications yet, then conditions can be created for their installation later. To do this, it is recommended to lay under the path in the most likely places where future communications will pass. plastic pipes diameter 50 mm;
- Installation of paving slabs is not carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation. The soil and the laid cushion must dry out. Optimal humidity of the base ensures that the tiles will not spread over time;
- the base for laying paving slabs must be perfectly level. The sand used for backfilling should not contain clay or other impurities;
- choose optimal size tracks. It is reasonable to select the width of the path based on the size of the paving slabs, plus a value equal to the sum of the gaps between them. In this way, it will be possible to avoid labor-intensive and not always beautiful cutting of tiles. The same applies to patterned layout. However, this approach is only possible when laying tiles with the correct geometry. Using Simulation natural stone, circular pattern, complex geometry does not always make it possible to do without cutting. In this case, you need to think about the exact location of individual whole and trimmed elements.
Stage 1 - Layout of paving slabs - diagrams, patterns, drawings
To create a beautiful tile path, you need to make the right sketch. A drawing or diagram of laying paving slabs will help not only to visualize the project, but also to calculate the required amount of material.
The choice of laying scheme is influenced by the shape (geometry) of the tiles (see photo) and the planned layout design.
Considerable room for maneuver is created by the use of rectangular paving slabs, with standard sizes 100x200 mm, “paving stones” or “brick” type. They provide the greatest number of styling options.
Traditional options for laying paving slabs:
1. Geometric styling. Can be represented by colored canvases or illusions.
By playing with colors and tile layout you can create a unique design garden paths. Examples in the photo (rhombus, square, circle, new and old city, parquet, checkerboard, fan, coil, butterfly, wedge leaf, hexagon or honeycomb).
2. 3D illusions - paving slabs with a 3D effect. Laying tiles with a pattern that creates a three-dimensional stereoscopic (three-dimensional) image is a clever technology for deceiving the eye.
An example of which is provided below, does not have a diagram in the classical sense. Involves laying out tiles in artistic disorder. If the tiles are monochromatic, then the size of the tiles varies during laying; if they are multi-colored, the colors vary.
4. Artistic laying of paving slabs, the photo of which is provided below, gives an idea of the diversity various options styling The complexity of the design is determined by the skill or perseverance of the artist.
Stage 2 - Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs
For work you will need: sand, cement, tiles, curb. The following tools will be useful: nylon thread, pegs, rubber hammer, long rule, level, tamper, trowel, broom. In case of trimming, you need a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. Knee pads are a handy thing, because work takes a lot of time focusing on these parts of the body.
Stage 3 - Marking for laying paving slabs
Marking the site consists of determining the contour of the future path. The area around the entire perimeter is marked with pegs, between which a nylon thread is stretched. Due to the fact that it serves as a guide for laying out the tiles, it must be pulled strictly according to the level.
Stage 4 - preparing the base for paving slabs
To install the base, you need to remove the top layer of turf, level the bed, pour water and compact it using a tamper. Dense soil does not require such work. There are stones, roots of trees and shrubs in the soil - all this should be removed.
Note. You can leave the soil, but then the path will be much higher than the rest of the cover on the site, which can lead to it being washed away by melt or rain water.
The resulting bed is covered with a drainage bearing layer, for example, crushed stone or gravel 150-200 mm high. For a car path (platform), the layer thickness increases to 400 mm. Many people place geotextiles under the gravel and on it to eliminate the possibility of the cushion being washed away by groundwater. 20 mm is poured on top of crushed stone. sand to level the base.
Stage 5 - Technology for laying paving slabs
Step-by-step instruction
1. Installing a curb for paving slabs or curbs
The purpose of the curb stone is to mark the path and protect the tiles from spreading. But there are examples of laying paving slabs without a border.
The curb is installed on a leveled base. For greater reliability, it is laid on a concrete base (concrete castle).
Can be installed plastic border for tiles
The border can be installed flush with the tiles or protrude by a few cm. It is recommended to lay the tiles just above the curb (curb) by 5 mm, this is a gap for shrinkage.
There are three types of base:
Laying paving slabs on sand.
In this case, the distance between the curbs (or the tensioned thread if they are absent) is filled with sand. The height of the sand layer is 50-60 mm. Before work, the sand is watered with water using a spray bottle and left to dry a little. Next, it is leveled and compacted. The laying is done on moist, but not wet sand.
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On the base prepared at the fifth stage, a second layer of sand (30-40 mm) is laid, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. The mesh is covered on top with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:4.
Laying paving slabs on a concrete base.
The composition of the “pie” is shown in the diagram.
Note. Laying tiles on concrete is not the best option. This is due to the fact that the concrete base does not allow moisture to pass through. Water gets trapped between concrete and tiles and at sub-zero temperatures leads to deformation of the path.
3. Laying tiles
Simple rules for high-quality and efficient work.
How to lay paving slabs correctly:
- the tiles are laid from the lowest point upward;
- The masonry is carried out using the manual method. That is, when performing work, the master moves along an already laid path so as not to damage the compacted and leveled base;
- Installation of tiles in a circular manner begins from the center of the pattern.
- the beginning of installation occurs at the optically visible boundary, i.e. to the place where the eye first falls: Entrance door, porch, veranda, gazebo, etc.
- The tiles are not laid out in even rows, but diagonally. This makes it easier to align horizontally.
When starting to lay, the first thing to do is pull the cord across the width of the path, and level the first row of tiles along it. The horizontal line should be checked with a level every 2-3 rows.
"Planting" paving slabs The tiles are placed in the intended place and installed accurately by lightly tapping them with a rubber hammer. If the tile falls under it, add sand or a mixture.
The gap between paving slabs is usually 2-3 mm (enough for water to escape). Exact gaps are maintained using crosses (but this is a theory, it does not occur in practice).
Some manufacturers have provided limiters (distance locks) on the tiles, allowing them to be laid at the same distance from each other without the use of additional devices.
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Appeared new technology- paving slabs that glow in the dark. Installing such tiles will mark the boundaries and make it safer to move along the path at night. Glowing paint is applied over the tiles and is absolutely safe for users and the soil.
Another option for decorative path lighting is LED paving slabs. In this case, during the laying process, brick blocks are installed - LED lights powered by electricity or solar panels.
Stage 6 - Grouting the joints of paving slabs
In addition to understanding how to lay paving slabs, you need to know how to seal the seams. Filling the seams between paving slabs is done in two approaches. To begin with, pour a thin layer of clean, sifted, dry sand onto the laid tiles. Using a broom or brush, the backfill is swept between the seams. Then a layer of sand (if the base is sandy) or a sand-cement mixture in a 1:1 ratio (for a cement-sand or concrete base) is poured onto the path and the seams are also filled (spilled) using a broom.
You can purchase a ready-made dry mixture for filling the joints of paving slabs: M150 (120 rubles/25 kg) and Quick-mix PFN (1650 rubles/25 kg).
At the end of the work, the path is watered with water using a sprayer. Watering is carried out until puddles form on the path.
Important. The distance between the curb and the tiles is not concreted, and is also filled with dry mixture.
Note. Professionals advise vibrating the seams with a special board, but users argue that in private construction this is unnecessary.
Caring for paving slabs
It is not enough to know how to lay paving slabs; you also need to provide them with constant care so that they last the estimated period. Simple maintenance consists of periodically sweeping and washing the paving slab path (to ensure that the colored tiles remain as beautiful). IN winter time Do not use metal shovels to clear snow, and do not use crowbars or ice axes to remove ice, and also sprinkle the path with anti-ice compounds containing salt.
Water repellent for paving slabs
The porous structure of concrete acts like a sponge - it absorbs water. Hygroscopicity plays its detrimental role precisely in winter, when water penetrates the pores of concrete, freezes, expands and destroys the structure of the concrete base. As a result, the appearance of microcracks, dents, cavities, and color changes.
To prevent this, use protective impregnations - water repellents for paving slabs
Water-repellent compounds (materials, additives, liquids) do not protect the tiles from fading in the sun and abrasion, but only saturate the surface of the concrete and thereby prevent “saturation” with water (provide water-repellent properties).
Laying paving slabs - a modern analogue of paving stones - on sand is advisable only if paths are made in the courtyard of a private house or cottage, because this technology is designed for objects with light loads.
Tiles look much more attractive than concrete or asphalt. The variety of shapes and the ability to paint this building material in different colors make it possible to create surfaces that not only fit organically into the design of any site, but also serve as its decoration.
How to properly lay paving slabs on sand and what material will you need for laying? We will answer these and many other questions in our article.
First of all, let's figure out whether it is possible to lay paving slabs on sand and how advisable it is.
In a short time, paths made of modern paving stones laid on sand have gained great popularity. Here are the main points that give this technology an advantage:
- the sand cushion provides effective drainage - when it rains, moisture goes into the seams between the paving stones, so there are no puddles on such paths;
- since the surface of the path and its internal structure are not monoliths, when the soil moves, it does not crack due to the fact that its elements are mobile relative to each other
- Since the paving stones are not attached to the base, the path is very easy to maintain - a deformed slab can easily be removed and replaced (provided that there is a product of the same shape and size in stock).
Such structures are also not without their drawbacks:
- if high-quality drainage is not provided, water flows poorly and accumulates; over time, a structure with a sand base may collapse, because water can wash away anything;
- the surface does not tolerate exceeding permissible loads - if you drive along a pedestrian path in a car, the result can be very disastrous;
- Owners of garden plots often complain that ants drag away sand in significant quantities from under the paving stones.
Consumables and tools
Before laying paving slabs on the sand, you need to collect the necessary equipment. So that there is no downtime and all work is carried out easily and efficiently, in advance You will need to stock up on the following tools and materials:
- pegs and durable cord for marking the boundaries of a path or area;
- building level;
- tamping (automatic or manual);
- Master OK;
- rubber mallet;
- plastic crosses or thin wooden wedges;
- irrigation hose with shower nozzle or watering can;
- broom;
- rake;
- sand of different fractions;
- cement M500.
Read about it on our website. We'll tell you what to look for when purchasing.
Calculation of the quantity of materials
Calculations begin with measuring the perimeters of future paths and calculating their surface area. If shaped elements are provided that are located around flower beds and other objects on the site, they need to be divided into simple parts and the surface area must also be calculated.
All subsequent calculations are made on the basis of the resulting figures, which are converted into meters.
- The amount of curb stone is the length of all perimeters minus the length of the places where the surface abuts the foundation of the building and other structures. In this part, the foundation itself will be the border.
- The area of the required paving slab is the area of all planned sites and paths plus 5% for undercuts. But this percentage can only be used by applying simple circuits laying and hoping that all delivered paving stones will be intact. In addition, during the work process, unaccounted for points may be discovered that increase its consumption. Taking into account such nuances, 10% should be added to the calculated area. Such a volume will not lead to excessive overpayment, but the purchased slabs will definitely be enough and there will be some left over in case of repairs in the future.
- How much sand is needed to lay paving slabs? The components of the sand cushion are calculated taking into account the expected thickness of the sand under the paving slabs. For example, to calculate the volume of crushed stone that will be laid in a layer of 5 cm, we multiply the area of all paths and platforms by 0.05 (this is 5 cm converted to meters). The resulting value will indicate how many cubic meters of crushed stone should be purchased. The amount of sand is calculated in the same way.
The volume of waste when laying paving stones greatly depends on the laying pattern (with the diagonal method, the amount of waste increases) and the size of the laid surface (the wider it is, the less there is).
Preparing for work
Preparation working area- an important stage. A high-quality foundation is the key to the success of all other work, so first you need to carry out work to prepare the soil:
- Remove the top layer and make a trench in the soil depth 20 cm. This indicator is conditional - universal solutions no and there won't be. The depth of the trench depends on many characteristics: soil composition and freezing depth, level groundwater, terrain. For hard soil, 20 cm is enough; for loose soils, increase the depth. The average for paths is 20 cm, and for a car area or driveway the trench needs to be deepened another 7–10 cm.
- Carefully remove the roots of grass and plants from the bottom of the trench, stones, soil, wet it with a watering can or hose and walk over it with a tamper, which will allow you to avoid subsidence of the soil in the future.
- Line the bottom of the trench with geotextile or agrofabric. They will not retain water, but they will also not allow the roots and seeds remaining in the soil to germinate and spoil the path. In addition, geotextiles will prevent the interpenetration of continental soil and sand.
Step-by-step instruction
All subsequent work consists of several stages, each of which should be carried out with the utmost care, because the quality and durability of the structure depends on this. Even if it was decided to save money on the slab, this should not be done on installation.
A high-quality base will not sag or deform, will allow moisture to pass through well and withstand expected loads.
Installation of curbs
Curbs are limiters that prevent the future sidewalk from moving away. To install them, grooves are dug along the prepared trench, the bottom of which is reinforced with crushed stone.
The voids in the crushed stone are filled with sand. Curbs are placed level on the crushed stone and secured with cement-sand mortar. You shouldn’t fill all the curbs with ready-made mortar at once.- each is individually reinforced with a concrete lock.
At the end of the work, the height of the curbs to ensure good drainage should be level or 10–20 mm below the top edge of the paving stones. The height is primarily regulated by the depth of the dug grooves. Concrete castles take about a day to dry, then the grooves with curbs are filled with soil to the general level of the bottom of the trench.
A gutter is laid along the inside of one of the curbs, towards which the path will need to be sloped.
Making a pillow
Coarse-grained material is poured onto the geotextile sand 5 cm layer. Its surface is leveled with a rake and abundantly moistened with water. Before the next stage of work, in cloudy weather you need to wait a day; in sunny weather, 2–4 hours is enough.
Then the surface is leveled with a profile or pipe and a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick is poured onto it. The crushed stone is compacted. You cannot lay crushed stone directly on geotextiles to avoid damaging the latter.
Another 5 cm of sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, which is distributed so as to fill all the voids. This layer is needed to loosen the crushed stone and bring the base to zero. The surface is again compacted, spilled with water (as a result of which the sand will partially go into the spaces between the gravel) and leveled.
The result will be a perfectly flat cushion on which the slabs will be laid.
On the pages of our website you will find out what types there are. Find descriptions and characteristics in our review.
DIY styling technique
So how to properly lay paving slabs on sand?
To avoid trampling on compacted sand, products are laid away from you. The master, being on the already laid surface, lays the paving stones in front of him, slightly pressing them into the sandy base, and moves forward along it.
A gap of 1–2 mm is left between the plates. For convenience, use matches, thin wooden pegs or crosses for ceramic products. Some manufacturers produce products with stops on the sides that allow you to maintain the required distance.
The horizontalness of each row is checked with a building level, using a rubber mallet, sand and a trowel, the surface is adjusted:
- if the slab protrudes above the others, you can deepen it by knocking with a mallet or removing a layer of sand underneath it;
- if the slab is recessed compared to the others, it should be raised and the layer of the cushion increased.
The pavers may need to be trimmed. To do this, apply it to the desired place in the track, make a mark, and only then cut off the excess part.
A grinder is used to cut tiles, but if you cut through the tiles completely, cracks may appear in the future. Therefore, only an incision is made with a “grinder”, and then the product is carefully split.
Sealing seams
To prevent the tiles from moving relative to each other, they are fixed by sprinkling the surface with sand so that all the gaps are filled. The sand is distributed evenly with a brush or broom, and then the surface is spilled with water - this will compact the backfill. The procedure may have to be repeated 2-3 times, and subsequently carried out after heavy rainfall.
Sometimes the gaps are sealed using a mixture of sand and cement, which is then spilled with water so that the cement “sets” and the tiles adhere better to each other.
But such a technique impairs the penetration of moisture into the drainage, and therefore it is not practical to use it in private areas and paths with low traffic.
Important nuances and measures to prevent errors
The quality of work is affected by the shape and size of the tiles. If you have to make frames around objects already located on the ground or the paths are winding, small paving stones will do, but using large tiles will result in too much waste.
Ideally, you should choose a material that contains elements to create curves. For a platform under a car, the paving stones must be wide and thick (at least 6 cm), then the wheels will not push through the coating. The thickness of the sand cushion is made at least 30 cm.
Since the technology of laying paving slabs on sand involves the use of water as one of the sealing agents, It is better to carry out work only in warm or hot seasons when wetted building materials dry quickly. When it rains, work is stopped because it disrupts production technology.
How to lay paving slabs on sand, watch this video:
Safety precautions when working
The basic requirements for safety measures remain the same as for general construction work. As for laying tiles directly, then general measures should be supplemented with the following requirements:
- It is prohibited to cut and trim tiles on your knees;
- when using a grinder or sandpaper, you should wear safety glasses and a respirator;
- work that does not require contact with water is carried out wearing protective cloth gloves.
Laying paving slabs on a sand bed yourself is not at all difficult, especially considering that there is no need to bring specialized equipment.
The main thing is not to neglect the little things in the process of work, because it is from them that the overall quality is formed, which will allow the product to serve for many years.
If you want to give your yard a more civilized look, laying paving slabs will come in handy. The advantage of this material is that it is quite beautiful, and the quality is expressed in strength and long service life.
In the construction market, you can choose a universal option, but it would be wise to select tiles for the facade of the house. The range is so large that you will definitely find material to suit your taste.
The technology for laying paving slabs with your own hands is quite simple if you stick to a certain plan. For an ordinary patio, a week is enough to lay tiles.
But if we take, for example, a large yard where a car can enter, it will take more time (about two weeks), and even extra hands(you may have to hire a helper).
Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of paving slab. For example, there is stamped and vibration-cast material. Best choice there will be a second option. Perhaps the cost will be higher than other options, but it is compensated by its decent appearance and long service life.
Paving slabs are distinguished not only by appearance, but also thick. The standard thickness of the slab can range from 20 millimeters to 40. For small areas that are intended for walking only, 20mm thick tiles are suitable.
In the courtyard itself, the thickness of the tiles is estimated at 45 millimeters. But when the road is intended for cars, then the material is laid at 60 mm.
If you pay attention to the photo of laying paving slabs, you will be able to notice the variety of styles. For beginners, it is not recommended to install in the diamond, brick or pavers style. The point is that this kind of work is not easy.
But professionals will willingly take on the most complex drawings, because they will be paid well for it. Also, paving slabs vary in color. Certainly, grey colour not as expensive as colored ones, but as they say, beauty requires sacrifice.
To save money and at the same time beautifully arrange a place where people walk or transport travels, step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs are just for you.
What do you need for work?
What do you need to lay paving slabs with your own hands? First of all, you will need special materials and tools. As for materials, work will not begin without sand. But its quantity directly depends on the area of the covered territory and the landscape itself.
The next material is the tile itself. How much will it take? The manufacturer himself carries out quadrature calculations. This is followed by cement and curbing. Next you will need a thread of good elasticity and strength, thanks to which it will be possible to lay the tiles evenly.
But an elastic thread cannot do without metal pegs and two narrow steel pipes. Well, then everything goes according to the standard: a regular and rubber hammer, a shovel, a broom, buckets and a wheelbarrow. To go in the right direction you will have to use the level.
A construction rule will be used to impart planeness. Also, a tamping tool and a grinder are used for cutting concrete. The work ahead will be a little dirty, which means you should prepare your work clothes and shoes in advance.
In addition, you can use knee pads to avoid rubbing your knees.
The working process
The area covered with paving slabs must have a slope. What is it for? When it rains, water will form puddles on your driveway. But when the tiles are laid on a slope, the remaining water after rain will flow outside the home area.
As you already understand, the slope will be towards the street, which means it can be taken as the zero point. Just in this place you need to drive in two pegs and stretch the thread along the zero line. During the tensioning process, you need to check the horizontal position with a level (the level is applied to the thread from below).
Following the example of the first thread, you need to pull the second one perpendicularly. It is worth noting that the second end must be higher than the first, which is located in the zero level area. Another thread is tied to the last peg.
It's on the same level as the previous one. It needs to be pulled parallel to zero, and the end tied to the fourth peg. The first and last pegs are connected by a thread. Overall, a rectangle of thread is formed.
After marks from the threads, the plane of the rectangle is divided into strips. Its width is determined by the length of the rule. How is the site divided into strips? A distance is selected from the zero line, and there a peg is driven into the ground.
The same steps are performed on the opposite side. The height is equalized using connecting threads. This is how the entire site is divided into strips.
Over time, you have to align the markings. For example, when the thread is too low to the ground, the excess is removed and added to where there is not enough. The gap between the thread and the ground can be determined by eye. When everything is balanced everywhere, it's time to compact.
After this, a sand-cement mixture is prepared. The cement is mixed with a pile of sand in a ratio of 6:1. The sand should be slightly damp. The mixture is distributed in one of the strips, and then thoroughly compacted.
The pipe is adjusted so that it is in the gap 1 cm above the thread. The height of the pipes must match the threads.
The tiles are laid out in stacks near the place of work, because it is more convenient to lay them this way. If you come across a defective material, it is better not to use it. The success of the subsequent placement of others depends on the placement of the first slab.
It is important to tap the material thoroughly with a rubber hammer so that it is well absorbed into the soil. This continues until the last slab.
Photo ideas for beautiful laying of paving slabs
