Cook a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. Features of manufacturing a water heating boiler for a private house at home. Electrode boiler Scorpio

For organizing a household heating system, solid fuel boilers are the most economical option. But, despite all the wealth of choice of equipment available on the market and the fairly wide price and functional range, not every consumer is able to buy a unit that optimally meets his needs. On the other hand, it is quite possible to make a boiler that runs on solid fuel with your own hands. And at the same time save significant funds that would have to be paid for factory equipment. All you need for this is knowledge of the structure and operating principle of this category of heating installations, as well as skills in working with various tools and materials, in particular metal.

Choosing the type of solid fuel boiler

How to understand which boiler will be optimal for servicing a specific heating system? Obviously, you need to decide on the type of fuel, the required power of the unit and the features of its design, installation process and subsequent operation, as well as the features of the connected heating system.

Among the materials that can be used as solid fuel, the most widely used are:

• coal;
• peat briquettes;
• pellets;
• firewood;
• sawdust and other combustible production waste.

Types of solid fuels for heating boilers in the photo

Peat briquettes Firewood for a solid fuel boiler Charcoal for solid fuel heating boilers

Wood briquettes for solid fuel boilers Euro firewood (fuel briquettes for a picnic) Wood sawdust for heating boilers

In order to increase the profitability and efficiency of the heating system, it is possible to manufacture a universal unit that can work with various types of fuel.

The choice of the type and design of the heating boiler directly depends on what fuel you are going to use, the required performance of the heating system, as well as the place where it will be installed. The following modifications of solid fuel heating units are suitable for self-production:

1. Classic

Equipped with a steel or cast iron heat exchanger, they can be used for both heating and hot water supply. The efficiency of such boilers is about 85%.

1. Pyrolysis

Ensure separate combustion of fuel and volatile gases released, thereby significantly increasing efficiency and, consequently, cost-effectiveness heating system.

1. Pellet

The efficiency of this type of heating boiler reaches 90%. Their main advantage is the high degree of automation of work processes, and the disadvantage is the complexity of the design.

1. Long burning

They are able to operate continuously throughout the entire heating season, requiring fuel loading once every few days, which distinguishes them from classic solid fuel boilers.

Design Basics

In order to make the right - safe, efficient and easy-to-use - solid fuel boiler, it is necessary to understand the physics of the process of its operation and the operation of the heating system as a whole.

Operating principle of a solid fuel heating boiler:

• fuel is loaded into the combustion chamber;
• air and other gases heated during fuel combustion rise upward and are discharged through the chimney;
• on the way to the chimney, the hot air heats the heat exchanger, which in turn heats the thermal agent (in most household heating systems - water);
• the heated thermal agent displaces the cold one, passing through the entire heating system and returning back to the heat exchanger after cooling.

It's all about the property of any heated medium to rise above the cold one - this is one of the fundamental laws of thermodynamics.

To implement this principle, in addition to the body made of thick (at least 4-5 mm) heat-resistant steel, the following elements are included in the design of the solid fuel boiler:

1. The combustion chamber

Its volume is determined by a complex formula, which, however, is quite easy to find on the Internet, as well as ready-made solution– volume of the combustion chamber in relation to the rated power of the boiler or the maximum heating area.

In practice, the size of the firebox depends not only on the parameters of the boiler and the properties of the fuel, but also on the characteristics of the heating system itself - schematic, functional complexity, seasonality of operation, peak demand for hot water supply, etc.

1. Hot gas exhaust chamber

This unit is a continuation of the combustion chamber and serves as an output manifold for removing combustion products.

1. Internal coolant supply and removal system

We are talking about a heat exchanger (heat exchange register), as well as its main pipes - inlet and outlet, which serves to receive the cooled thermal agent, heat it and discharge it into the heating system.

Important points

The efficiency of a solid fuel heating boiler is always influenced by two factors:

1. Design features of the heat exchanger

The larger the area of ​​thermal contact, the more energy per unit time will be transferred from the burning fuel to the thermal agent - water.

Options for a homemade heat exchanger in the photo

Horizontal heat exchanger made of sheet steel and profile pipe Homemade horizontal heat exchanger Do-it-yourself steel vertical heat exchanger for a boiler

1. Completeness and period of fuel combustion

If the fuel burns inefficiently - it loses pyrolysis gas or does not have time to heat the coolant to the required temperature, there are flaws in the design. Therefore, the calculation and manufacturing process of the latter should be treated with maximum responsibility - after assembly it will be impossible to change it.

The design of the boiler must be reliable and safe, and responsibility for this lies with nothing other than the body. It is made of thick (at least 5 mm) steel, preferably heat-resistant. However, the latter is noticeably more expensive than the usual one, so you should remember that the thicker the metal, the slower it will heat up. This means that in order for a medium-power boiler not to burn your hands and turn the boiler room into a sauna, the boiler body must be about 8 mm thick.

The exception is designs with a cast iron top cover, which serves as a stove. The thickness and dimensions of the cast iron sheet will depend on the design parameters of the body and the operating characteristics of the boiler (but not less than 8 mm).

To organize the internal piping system of the boiler, it is necessary to use pipes with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm and a diameter of 50 mm. To ensure the coolant flow, it is necessary to provide for a narrowing (from 50 to 25 mm) of the pipelines in the direction from hot to cold, for example, from the boiler to the radiators) and expand them on the return path of the coolant.

Spatial diagram and layout of a solid fuel heat generator

The dimensions of a solid fuel boiler depend on the dimensions and spatial orientation of the combustion chamber. Vertical structures have become more widespread, since this arrangement saves space in the boiler room.

Traditional scheme of a vertical solid fuel boiler:

To set up and monitor the operation of the unit during operation, you will need special equipment. These include water temperature sensors at the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger and heating system components, combustion chamber load sensors, pressure sensors in it and in individual areas of the boiler, etc.

The principle of natural coolant circulation is not always successfully implemented. Therefore, the heating boiler is often equipped with an additional water pump, which forcibly supplies coolant to the heat exchanger and/or to the heating system.

The pump is an energy-dependent unit, which means it is important to provide the ability to bypass coolant supply in case of a power outage. Firstly, so that the heating functions, and secondly, so that the boiler or communications are not broken by steam or damaged by temperature.

If a pump is included in the design of a solid fuel boiler, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of adjusting its operating parameters, as well as emergency shutdown. It is impossible to stop a solid fuel boiler in the event of a breakdown of components and communications of the heating system. Therefore, a system for removing excess heat is needed - a shock-absorbing tank with a compensation valve or another solution that is appropriate in your case.

What do you need for work?

First of all, the workshop, that is, the place where you will manufacture the main components and assemble the unit. In addition, you will need a fairly extensive list of tools, which can safely include:

• welding mask, gaiters and overalls;
• household inverter welding machine and electrodes;
• circular saw with a set of discs for cutting metal;
• electric drill with a set of metal drills;
• tape measure, squares, building level.

To assemble a solid fuel boiler, you will need the following materials:

• steel sheets with a thickness of 5 mm;
• metal corners;
• cast iron grate;
• steel water pipes different diameters;
• doors for the ash and combustion chamber;
• stove-type throttle valves.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of boiler elements and assemblies, it is necessary to perform structural calculations and decide on circuit diagram and draw a drawing of the boiler, not forgetting to indicate all its structural components and their main parameters.

And most importantly: observe safety precautions both during the work process and in relation to the quality of the solid fuel boiler. The slightest mistake on your part can cause serious problems, incl. increased risk of fire.

In addition to purchasing heating equipment presented on the market by domestic or global manufacturers, there is always the opportunity to make a heating boiler with your own hands, the drawings of which can be freely found on the Internet. At the same time, you can save on a whole list of options that your heating system can do without. All you need for this is knowledge of the structure and operating principle of the type of boiler you have chosen, materials, tools and practical skills with them.

Main types of heating boilers

If desired, you can make almost any type of heating boiler. The main thing here is to choose the right one, and for this you need to know the main advantages and disadvantages of the most common types of heating equipment. So, heating boilers there are:

• Gas. It is extremely undesirable to manufacture this type of boiler yourself - the following requirements apply to gas equipment: technical requirements, which you are unlikely to be able to perform in artisanal conditions.
• Electrical. The fairly high popularity of boilers in this category is explained by their simple design and relatively low safety requirements during operation and installation.

Important! The main disadvantage of electric boilers is the high price of electricity. As a result, such equipment is usually used to provide periodic heating, for example, in a garage or cottage.

• Liquid fuel. The design of such boilers is not very complicated. However, the intricacies and cost of the injectors that supply fuel to the combustion chamber will make anyone think twice before starting to build a heating device that runs on diesel or fuel oil.
• Solid fuel. Representatives of this type of heating equipment are optimally suited for both private homes and various industrial or commercial facilities. Versatility in use and high efficiency provide such boilers with the highest demand on the market.

Important! According to the principle of operation, solid fuel boilers are divided into pyrolysis, wood, pellet and long burning. The most popular ones for making with your own hands are long-burning boilers, while pellet and pyrolysis boilers are used much less frequently due to the high cost of individual elements.

What does the design depend on?

The exact design of the heating boiler may be influenced by certain conditions:

• Type of fuel.
• Availability and cost of materials.
• Coolant circulation method.

Materials for assembly:

• Stainless heat-resistant steel shows the greatest durability. However, it is precisely this that has the highest cost, and its processing is quite challenging task, which cannot be dealt with without special equipment. The same can be said about cast iron, which, however, costs much less than stainless steel.

Important! Traditionally, sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm or more is used for the manufacture of heating boilers - this option is relatively easy to process and, most importantly, is durable and quite reliable.

• To ensure natural circulation of the coolant, it is necessary to use heating circuits and connecting fittings of large diameter, and the storage tank should be located at a height. When this is not possible, you will have to use a circulation pump - it will make it possible to reduce the diameter of the pipes. However, the pumping system of a heating boiler is energy-dependent, which should be taken into account when choosing the design of the device, as well as its functionality.

Important! The pipes with which your boiler will be equipped must have a diameter of at least 32 mm - a thick-walled steel pipe can be used for manufacturing. The heating circuit must be made of galvanized steel, not forgetting to seal the threaded connections.

Design features of solid fuel boilers

The cheapest option for making a heating boiler with your own hands is a wood-burning boiler. Structurally, such a device consists of two containers, which are placed one inside the other. The inner one acts as a firebox, and the outer one acts as a heating tank.

Important! The design of a wood-burning boiler is quite simple, and it can work not only with wood, but also with some other types of solid fuel.

The wood boiler design includes the following:

• Steel firebox (with door).
• Firebox grates.
• Ash pan (with door).
• Chimney.
• Soot collector.
• Inlet and outlet pipes.
• Gate valve.
• Cast iron lid.
• Legs.

Important! The main disadvantage of a wooden boiler is low efficiency, that is, too much fuel consumption or a constant lack of heat in the house.

Design features of pyrolysis boilers

Pyrolysis boilers are more expensive to manufacture; they have two combustion chambers - for pyrolysis gas and for fuel, and some of their elements themselves are not cheap. However, this equipment is in great demand due to its cost-effectiveness - it pays for itself in just 3-4 seasons.

The classic scheme of a pyrolysis boiler includes the following:

• Combustion chamber with nozzle.
• Gasification chamber.
• Chimney system.
• Air supply system.
• Water heat exchanger.
• Loading chamber.
• Pressure and temperature sensors.
• Coolant circulation system.
• Regulator valve

Design features of pellet boilers

Pellet boilers were invented at the end of the 20th century. They operate on pressed sawdust, and their main principle The action consists in transferring heat from the gas released from the combustion of the latter, which heats the coolant in the heat exchanger.

The design of a pellet boiler includes the following:

• Frame.
• Heat exchanger with water circuit.
• Combustion chamber with air window and cleaning door.
• Thermal insulation pad.
• Smoke eliminator.
• Automatic control and monitoring.

Important! In pellet-type boilers, it is best to use heat exchangers made of cast iron: they have a higher heat transfer rate and are not subject to corrosion.

Manufacturing of an electric boiler

Making a heating boiler with your own hands is a responsible task. The main element of an electric heating device is a thermoelectric heater (TEH), which is necessary to convert electricity into heat.

Important! The body of such a unit can be made of any material, and the components that are needed for its operation - sensors, regulators - can be purchased at any specialized store.

The design of an electric boiler consists of the following elements:

• Expansion tank.
• Safety valve.
• Circulation pump.
• Filtration unit.

The coolant in the system is able to circulate both naturally, for which it is necessary to provide a height difference between the tank and the boiler radiators, and forcedly, using a pump. The simplest option for an electric boiler is to install a heating element in the heating system. If this design is not suitable, then you can make an electric boiler with a removable pipe - this will allow you to quickly get to the heating element if replacement or repair is necessary.

Most optimal solution To heat, for example, a small cottage, a separately located small electric boiler is used. The pipe of such a unit will have a diameter of approximately 220 mm, and the body length will be no more than half a meter, which makes it possible to install it almost anywhere (of course, taking into account safety rules).

Important! The body of the electric boiler must be sealed. It is equipped with a hole for the heated coolant to enter the heating system and a pipe for supplying cooled water back.

Alternative options for self-construction

In addition to electric and solid fuel boilers, a number of other alternative heating devices are also suitable for self-production, for example:

1. Induction - are transformers that consist of a primary and secondary winding. In a boiler of this type, electricity on the external winding is converted into an eddy current, and the created magnetic field is transferred to the internal winding, which transfers energy to the coolant.
2. Condensing - retain the thermal energy of condensate, due to which they are considered more efficient than solid fuel and gas. Steam condensation in the heat exchanger occurs with a special design, which provides such boilers with approximately a 20% efficiency advantage compared to traditional gas equipment.
3. Liquid fuel - evaporate waste and then burn its vapors. The energy thus obtained is sent to a heat exchanger, which heats the heating agent of the heating system. Such equipment has two significant drawbacks: a large amount of emissions into the atmosphere and low efficiency.
4. Combined - universally applicable equipment. But to design it yourself will require skill, as well as excellent knowledge of the principles of operation. various types heating equipment. Individual elements of such devices can be quite expensive, but in general, combined types of boilers can pay for themselves in just 5-6 seasons.

Important! When manufacturing a heating unit of any type, you must be guided by all the requirements of safety rules and current standards in relation to the category of equipment you have chosen.

Today on the market you can purchase numerous options for heating boilers.

Most of them are designed to work with gas and electricity, there are also solid fuel options and those using fuel oil.

However, they will not suit everyone. Many would like to make a heating boiler with their own hands (see drawings below), because they believe that the market is not able to satisfy their needs, or the price of purchased boilers is too high.

Well, in many ways they will be right, and we will try to satisfy their requests.

We'll tell you how you can make a boiler yourself and how to avoid mistakes.

Brick heating boiler option - something you can’t buy on the market

Heat exchanger in brick oven

Naturally, you are unlikely to buy a brick heating boiler on the market, in which the manufacturing material is brick.

You can build such a heating boiler with your own hands.

We will consider the drawings and operating principles of various systems below.

In fact, such a boiler is a furnace with a heat exchanger that is connected to a heating system or water tank.

The heat exchanger is located in the fuel combustion zone in the furnace or in the smoke circulation system.

Most likely, you will have to look at the design of the stove itself somewhere or develop it yourself.

The main element that turns the stove into a boiler is the heat exchanger. It is located in the firebox or in the smoke circulation area.

In the latter case, it will be more rational to use a non-revolving stove design, as in a Russian stove, so that the size of the heat exchanger that can be placed in it is as large as possible.

However, the temperature of the water in the heating system will be significantly lower, and such a system is more suitable for heating water for household purposes. When placed in a smoke circulation system, the heat exchanger can be made of ordinary steel.

Placing the heat exchanger in the firebox will, accordingly, require an increase in the size of the firebox. In this case, the material from which the heat exchanger is made must be made of high-thickness heat-resistant steel, which is not cheap.

The price of such steel is approximately 400-500 rubles per kilogram, pipes are even more expensive, and a heat exchanger made of thick metal can weigh more than 50 kilograms. However, this design, all other things being equal, will cost less than a purchased boiler of similar power.

The heat exchanger can be made either in the form of a coil or in the form of a water jacket. In the first case, water passes through a system of pipes, which create a significant area for heat extraction from the firebox during operation.

The coil is welded from heat-resistant steel pipes with a wall thickness of at least 5 millimeters. The diameter of the pipe is at least 50 millimeters.

Typically, sections of pipes and corners are welded until 3-4 rectangular contours are obtained, which are then connected to each other in height by pipes in four places.

This method will require a highly qualified welder; there will be a number of welds that will have to be welded “with a mirror”. In terms of complexity, this is work of the fifth category and even higher.

In the second case, combustion occurs in a firebox, which is located inside a container with water surrounding the firebox on at least three sides.

In the case of a water jacket, the heat exchanger can be lined, thereby reducing the requirements for the quality of the steel used, but its volume will be significantly larger, and this negates the use of brick as a boiler building material.

Most of the boiler will be made of metal, and the volume of welding work increases significantly, although their qualifications decrease.

Regardless of the type of heat exchanger, if it has direct contact with fire, the water in it can heat up to temperatures above 90 degrees. Therefore, at the outlet, the heat exchanger must be equipped with a protective water seal valve, which will operate if the water begins to boil and will save the pipes from rupture.

Both solid fuel, gas and liquid fuel can be used as fuel for homemade brick boilers. In the latter case, a nozzle with a fuel and air supply system or gas burner.

Long burning boilers

They work on the same principle as a long-burning stove. For this, you can also make a heating boiler yourself.

The drawings and diagrams will be the same as for long-burning furnaces, with the difference that it is advisable to place the heat exchanger in the area with the highest combustion temperature. The fuel for such a boiler is peat, sawdust and coal.

The operating principle of a long-burning furnace is based on the fact that the fuel burns with little access to oxygen. In this case, the main heat is produced by coals.

Construction of a long-burning furnace

Their smoldering and combustion produces gas, which, in fact, burns in the boiler furnace. The rest of the fuel is located outside the combustion zone, and its oxidation occurs gradually.

One of the advantages of such a boiler is self-sufficiency. You can load the fuel once every two or three days and it will burn without your supervision, ensuring a constant temperature for the heating system.

Coefficient useful action of such boilers is quite high - reaches 90-95% versus 80-85% for conventional boilers. Not only prepared materials can be used as fuel, but also sawdust and bulk peat - practically free fuel in most regions of Russia.

The downside is that you won’t be able to lower the temperature in your batteries instantly, and you won’t be able to lower it at all if necessary. It is difficult to adjust the operation of the boiler to any selective temperature regime.

At the same time, for a conventional solid fuel boiler it is quite easy to regulate the temperature by the amount of fuel loaded. In addition, long-burning boilers require a lot of maintenance - their firebox and chimneys will have to be cleaned frequently.

How to make a long-burning boiler with your own hands is presented in the video:

Heat exchanger without pipes

If you are not a great welding expert and have only recently learned to hold an electrode in your hands, you can make a heat exchanger for a boiler from metal plates. To do this, the boiler itself must have the shape rectangular container so that one of its sides communicates with the firebox over a larger area.

One of its walls, which communicates with the firebox, must be made of heat-resistant steel and have a thickness of at least 8 mm. All other walls can be made from ordinary walls.

The heat exchanger is made from a series of metal plates about 8 mm thick, which are welded to this wall and go into the firebox. For ease of welding, the plates are placed every 5 cm; welding is carried out alternately for each plate until all are welded.

The plate size is the maximum possible so that the combustion zone is completely filled with plates. The same plates are welded on the inside of the boiler and go into the boiler itself.

The more they occupy the volume of the boiler, the better. The plates in the boiler can be made thinner - about 3 mm. Welding must be carried out so that the plates in the firebox are not opposite the plates in the boiler, but offset, in a checkerboard pattern.

This is necessary so that the welded seam of the plates does not spoil the metal of the wall. To make welding the plates easier, one of the boiler walls is welded after all the boiler plates have been welded.

This scheme is suitable for brick boilers. The boiler is embedded with one of its walls into the furnace, and an asbestos gasket is placed between it and the furnace so that the brick does not collapse when the metal deforms.

The heat exchanger will take heat from the flame in the firebox, while providing a sufficiently high temperature for heating the water. The efficiency of such a boiler is only slightly inferior to boilers with a coil.

The disadvantage is that the plates in the firebox will constantly burn out, unlike the pipes of a coil filled with water. About once every 2 years you will have to partially disassemble the stove, remove the boiler and weld the plates again. Of course, it is possible to make the plates from heat-resistant steel, but this will significantly increase the cost of the design.

Boilers that are better to buy

Numerous gas boilers. Of course, you can put a gas burner in a stove with a heat exchanger, which is designed to operate the heating system.

In all more complex cases, it is best to buy a gas boiler in a store, especially if additional frog-type control devices or temperature control devices will be used when operating the boiler.

And in general gas equipment This is quite a dangerous thing; it is better to purchase devices that have passed tests and are mass-produced.

Coal fired boilers. No matter how strange it may seem, coal-fired boilers are also best purchased separately. The fact is that the combustion temperature of coal is twice that of wood.

Therefore, the risk of fire will also be twice as high. In addition, you can only make a steel heat exchanger for a solid fuel boiler.

And in industrial production, both cast iron and copper heat exchangers are made, which will have a longer service life.

Electrical equipment of low performance and dimensions. For example, make your own instantaneous heating boiler, which will take up little space and heat cold water there is no point in using water supply - the market is replete with cheap offers of equipment low power. This makes it pointless to manufacture such heating boilers on your own.

Noticed a mistake? Select it and press Ctrl+Enter to let us know.

foxremont.com

How to make a heating boiler with your own hands?

When designing a heating system for a private home, many owners, in order to reduce the cost of purchasing equipment, prefer homemade heating boilers to factory ones. Indeed, factory units are quite expensive, but making a wood-burning boiler with your own hands is quite possible if you have competent drawings and skills in handling tools for mechanical processing of materials, as well as welding machine.

The operation scheme of water heating boilers is, as a rule, universal - the thermal energy that is released during fuel combustion is transferred to a heat exchanger, from where it goes to heating devices for heating the house. The design of the units can be very different, such as the fuel used and materials for manufacturing.

Long-burning pyrolysis boilers

The operation scheme of a long-burning pyrolysis device is based on the process of pyrolysis (dry distillation). During the smoldering process, firewood is released wood gas, which burns at very high temperature. In this case, a large amount of heat is released - it is used to heat the water heat exchanger, from where it is supplied through the main line to the heating devices to heat the house.

Solid fuel pyrolysis boilers are quite expensive, so many owners prefer to make a homemade heating boiler for their home.

The design of such a unit is quite simple. Solid fuel pyrolysis boilers consist of the following elements:

• Firewood loading chamber.
• Grate.
• Combustion chamber for volatile gases.
• A smoke exhauster is a means of providing forced draft.
• Water type heat exchanger.

Firewood is placed in the loading chamber, set on fire and the damper is closed. In a sealed space, smoldering wood produces nitrogen, carbon and hydrogen. They enter a special compartment where they burn, releasing a large amount of heat. It is used to heat the water circuit, from where, together with the heated coolant, it is used to heat the house.

The fuel combustion time of such a water heating device is about 12 hours - this is quite convenient, since there is no need to visit it often to load a new portion of firewood. For this reason, solid fuel pyrolysis boilers are very highly valued among private sector home owners.

The drawing in the diagram clearly demonstrates all the design features of pyrolysis hot water boilers.

In order to make such a device yourself, you will need a grinder, a welding machine and the following consumables:

• Sheet of metal 4 mm thick.
• Metal pipe with a diameter of 300 mm and a wall thickness of 3 mm.
• Metal pipes with a diameter of 60 mm.
• Metal pipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

The step-by-step manufacturing algorithm is as follows:

• We cut a section 1 m long from a pipe with a diameter of 300 mm.
• Next, you need to attach a bottom made of sheet metal - to do this, you need to cut out a section of the required size and weld it with the pipe. The stands can be welded from channel bars.
• Next we make a means for air intake. We cut out a circle with a diameter of 28 cm from sheet metal. In the middle we drill a hole measuring 20 mm.
• We place the fan on one side - the blades should be 5 cm in width.
• Next, we install a tube with a diameter of 60 mm and a length of more than 1 m. We attach a hatch on the top side so that it is possible to adjust the air flow.
• A hole for fuel is required at the bottom of the boiler. Next, you need to weld and attach the hatch for a hermetically sealed closure.
• We place the chimney on top. It is placed vertically at a distance of 40 cm, after which it is passed through a heat exchanger.

Solid fuel pyrolysis devices of the hot water type very effectively provide heating for a private home. Their self-production helps you save a very significant amount of money.

How to make a steam boiler with your own hands

The operation scheme of steam heating systems is based on the use of thermal energy of hot steam. When fuel burns, a certain amount of heat is generated, which enters the water heating section of the system. There, the water turns into steam, which flows under high pressure from the hot water section into the heating main.

Such devices can be single-circuit or double-circuit. A single-circuit device is used only for heating. The double-circuit system also provides hot water supply.

The steam heating system consists of the following elements:

• Water heating steam device.
• Stoyakov.
• Highways.
• Heating radiators.

The drawing in the figure clearly demonstrates all the nuances of the design of a steam boiler.

Read also: Gas homemade heating boiler.

You can weld such a unit with your own hands if you have some skills in handling a welding machine and tools for mechanical processing of materials. The most important part of the system is the drum. We connect the water circuit pipes and instruments for control and measurement to it.

IN top part water is pumped into the unit using a pump. Pipes are directed downwards, through which water enters the collectors and the lifting pipeline. It passes through the fuel combustion zone and water is heated there. Essentially, the principle of communicating vessels is involved here.

First you need to think through the system well and study all its elements. Then you need to purchase all the necessary consumables and tools:

• Stainless steel pipes with a diameter of 10-12 cm.
• Stainless steel sheet 1 mm thick.
• Pipes with a diameter of 10 mm and 30 mm.
• Safety valve.
• Asbestos.
• Tools for machining.
• Welding machine.
• Instruments for control and measurement.

• We make the body from a pipe 11 cm long with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm.
• We make 12 smoke pipes 10 cm long.
• We make a flame tube 11 cm.
• We make partitions from stainless steel sheets. We make holes in them for the smoke tubes - we attach them to the base by welding.
• We weld the safety valve and manifold to the body.
• Thermal insulation is carried out using asbestos.
• We equip the unit with monitoring and adjustment devices.

Conclusion

As practice shows, the manufacture of boilers for heating systems in private houses is quite common. If all thermal engineering calculations are carried out correctly, and if there is a well-drawn drawing and wiring diagram for the main line, such devices cope with their task quite effectively and allow you to save a significant amount of money, since such factory-made devices are quite expensive.

Manufacturing heating devices on your own is a scrupulous, complex and time-consuming task. In order to cope with it, you need to be able to use a welding machine and have skills in using tools for mechanical processing of materials. If you don’t have such skills, this will be a good opportunity to learn - and you will be able to provide your home with warmth and comfort with your own hands.

mynovostroika.ru

DIY heating boiler: necessary drawings and product features

Making a heating boiler yourself is not as simple as it is written on many websites. A person who decides to make a boiler with his own hands must have certain qualifications and skills, have necessary tools and materials, and also be able to create homemade drawings for heating boilers, according to which the product will be manufactured. The most complex technical structures on Earth have been created by human hands, so it is not surprising that homemade heating boilers are much better in their technical data than factory products.

The enterprise is created in order to make a profit, therefore a product design is developed that has a minimum cost for given technical parameters. But for self-production, steel of higher quality and thickness is most often chosen. Usually no one saves and purchases high-quality fittings, fittings and pumps. And for the heating boiler you create with your own hands, the drawings either use already tested models, or develop your own unique ones.

Homemade electric heating boilers

Having skills in working with metal, having required material and the tool is easiest to make homemade electric boilers - electrode or heating elements. If a heating element is used as an electricity converter, then you need to make or select a steel housing in which it will be installed. All other components - regulators, sensors, thermostat, pump and expansion tank can be purchased separately in specialized stores. Electric boilers can be used in closed or open systems heating.

What is needed and how to make a 220V electric heating boiler with your own hands, efficient and reliable?

You need a steel container in which one or more heating elements are placed in accordance with the drawings or sketches on created product. Even at the stage of the project for do-it-yourself heating boilers, the drawings should provide for the possibility of quickly and easily replacing a burnt heating element. For example, the body can be made of a steel pipe with a diameter of 220 mm with a body length of about 0.5 m. Flanges with supply and return pipes and seats in which heating elements are installed are welded to the ends of the pipe. The circulation pump, expansion tank and pressure sensor are connected to the return line.

Features of power supply of electric boilers

Heating elements consume significant power, usually more than 3 kW. Therefore, for electric boilers you need to create a separate power supply line. For units with a power of up to 6 kW, a single-phase network is used, and for higher power values ​​a three-phase network is required. If you equip a homemade heating boiler with a heating element with a thermostat and connect it through RCD protection, then this perfect option. When installing conventional heating elements, the thermostat is purchased and installed separately.

Electrode heating boilers

Boilers of this type impress with their extreme simplicity. It is a container in which an electrode is installed; the second electrode is the boiler body. Two pipes are welded into the container - supply and return, through which the electrode boiler is connected to the heating system. The efficiency of electrode boilers is close, like that of other types of electric boilers, to 100% and its real value is 98%. The famous Scorpion electrode boiler is the subject of heated debate. Opinions are extremely varied, from excessive admiration to complete denial of use for heating circuits.

It is believed that electrode boilers were designed for heating submarines. Indeed, the manufacture of heating boilers requires a minimum of materials, sea water with dissolved salts is an excellent coolant, and the hull of the submarine, to which the heating system is connected, is an ideal grounding. At first glance, this is an excellent heating circuit, but can it be used for heating homes and how to make an electric heating boiler with your own hands, repeating the design of the Scorpio boiler?

Electrode boiler Scorpio

In electrode boilers, the coolant heats the current passing between the two electrodes of the boiler. If distilled water is poured into the system, the electrode boiler will not work. There is a special salt solution for sale for electrode boilers with a specific conductivity of about 150 ohm/cm. The design of the unit is so simple that making a Scorpio electric boiler with your own hands, if you have the necessary skills, is quite simple.

The basis of the boiler is steel pipe with a diameter of up to 100 mm and a length of up to 300 mm.

Two pipes are welded to this pipe for connection to the heating system. Inside the device there is an electrode isolated from the body. The boiler body plays the role of a second electrode; the neutral wire and protective grounding are connected to it.

Disadvantages of electrode boilers

The main disadvantage of electrode boilers is the need to use saline solutions, which adversely affect radiators and heating pipelines. The heating system may require a complete replacement of radiators, especially aluminum ones (more information about which you will read here), and piping within a few years. Circulation pumps that are designed to work with antifreeze or clean water are at great risk. The second huge drawback is that electrode boilers require ideal protective grounding housings, otherwise they pose a huge risk of electric shock. It is prohibited to sell and install such equipment in foreign countries!

Homemade solid fuel heating boilers

Due to rising prices for gas and electricity, the demand for solid fuel boilers is growing, and their prices are rising accordingly. An alternative is to manufacture heating boilers yourself, because they will cost less and will work no worse than factory-made products.

It is impossible to make a cast iron firebox at home, so steel is used for production.

If possible, it is better to use heat-resistant alloy steel (stainless steel) with a thickness of at least 5 mm. There is no point in saving on metal, because the boiler is made for yourself, for long years. You can use ready-made drawings as a basis or make them yourself.

Features of manufacturing gas boilers

Theoretically, making a gas heating boiler with your own hands is not particularly difficult for people who know how to work with metal and have the necessary skills and tools. Gas boilers are classified as high-risk products, so homemade gas heating boilers must obtain permission for installation from the gas service, which requires a product certificate.

It should be borne in mind that obtaining a certificate is quite expensive and the slightest deviation from established norms and rules leads to refusal. Is it worth the risk? In addition, modern SNIiP prohibits the manufacture of gas-fired heating boilers with your own hands!

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DIY drawings of solid fuel boilers

The article describes in detail how to make a slow and ultra-long-burning boiler with your own hands using the drawings. The process, only at first glance, seems difficult and unique, but following the instructions from the article, you will be able to do no worse than the masters, the main thing is to carefully watch the video.

Drawing of a simple long-burning boiler

This design of a solid fuel boiler is quite simple. The heat exchanger can be made of sheet steel in the form of a “water jacket”. To maximize heat transfer efficiency and increase the contact area with flame and hot gases, its design includes two reflectors (protrusions inward).

In this design, the heat exchanger is a combination of a “water jacket” around the combustion chamber and an additional slot-like sheet metal register in its upper part.

1 - chimney; 2 - water jacket; 3 - slot heat exchanger; 4 - loading door; 5 - firewood; 6 - lower door for ignition and cleaning; 7 - grate; 8 - door for regulating air supply and cleaning the ash pan.

Read also:

In these options, the “water jacket” is supplemented with heat exchange registers made of pipes in the upper part of the combustion chamber. In addition, such units are designed for cooking food on them. Option 4 is more powerful and has a top loading door.

Rice. 3 Designs of solid fuel boilers with additional registers and hob

1 - firebox; 2 - register made of pipes; 5 - return pipe; 6 - supply pipe; 7 - upper loading door; 8 - lower door for ignition and air supply; 9 - loading door; 10 - chimney; 13 - grate; 14,15,16 - reflectors; 17 - damper; 19 - water jacket; 20 - ash pan; 21 - hob.

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Top combustion boiler

This unit differs from the previous ones - firstly, in its shape (it has a round cross-section and can be made from pipes of different diameters), and secondly, in the method of burning fuel in it (it is burned in it from top to bottom). In order to ensure such a combustion process, it is necessary to provide air supply from above, directly to the combustion site. This function here is performed by an air supply telescopic pipe, which rises up when loading fuel and falls down after igniting the fuel. As it burns gradually, the pipe falls down under its own weight. A “pancake” with blades is welded to the bottom of the pipe to ensure uniform air supply.

To provide better conditions After fuel combustion, an air heating chamber is located in the upper part. The air supply, and therefore the burning rate, is regulated by a valve at the entrance to this chamber from above. The heat exchanger here is made in the form of a “water jacket” around the combustion chamber.

1 - outer wall (pipe); 2 - inner wall; 3 - water jacket; 4 - chimney; 5 - telescopic air supply pipe; 6 - air distributor (metal “pancake” with ribs; 7 - air preheating chamber; 8 - air supply pipe; 9 - supply pipe with heated water; 10 - air damper; 11 - loading door; 12 - cleaning door; 13 - pipe with water from the system (return); 14 - cable controlling the damper.

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Boiler with pyrolysis combustion of solid fuel

The difference between this design is that solid fuel it does not burn in it, as in a regular one, but if there is insufficient supply of primary air, it is “distilled” into wood (pyrolysis) gas, which is burned in a special afterburner chamber when secondary air is supplied to it. Such a presentation can be either natural or forced.

Scheme-drawing of one of the variants of a pyrliz boiler

1 - draft regulator with temperature sensor; 3 - firewood; 4 - lower door; 5 - grate; 6 - air damper for primary air supply; 7 - ash pan; 8 - grate; 10 - cleaning; 11 - drain; 12 - thermal insulation of the body; 13 - return (coolant supply from the system); 14 - nozzle; 15 - secondary air supply; 16 - damper chimney; 17 - pipe with heated water; 18 - damper; 21 - loading door; 22 - afterburning chamber.

Such boilers can be either with conventional fuel combustion or with pyrolysis. In the first case, all the necessary air is supplied through the lower door, and the combustion products, after passing through the heat exchanger, are removed into the chimney. In the second case, a limited amount of primary air is supplied to the combustion site, where the wood burns, releasing pyrolysis gas. In addition, such structures are equipped with an additional afterburning chamber, where secondary air is supplied and gas is burned. At the top of the heat exchange chamber there is a valve that opens when ignited and allows the flue gases to escape directly into the chimney.

1 - primary air supply damper; 2 - lower door for ignition and cleaning; 3 - grate; 4 - firewood; 5 - loading door (can be located on top); 12 - pipe with heated water (supply); 13 - starting valve; 14 - chimney damper; 15 - heat exchanger; 16 - secondary air supply; 17 - afterburning chamber; 18 - return; 19 - drain; 20 - cleaning; 21 - damper; 22 - grate; 25 - ash pan.

Do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler for ultra-long burning

A homemade heater will have the following design:

1. The firebox is a “box” 460 mm deep, 360 mm wide and 750 mm high with a total volume of 112 liters. The fuel load volume for such a combustion chamber is 83 liters (the entire volume of the firebox cannot be filled), which will allow the boiler to develop power up to 22 - 24 kW.
2. The bottom of the firebox is a corner grate on which the firewood will be placed (air will flow into the chamber through it).
3. There should be a 150 mm high compartment under the grate to collect ash.
4. The 50 liter heat exchanger is mostly located above the firebox, but its lower part covers it on 3 sides in the form of a 20 mm thick water jacket.
5. A vertical flue pipe connected to the top of the firebox and horizontal flame pipes are located inside the heat exchanger.
6. The firebox and ash pan are closed with sealed doors, and air is taken in through a pipe in which a fan and gravity damper are installed. As soon as the fan turns off, the damper lowers under its own weight and completely blocks the air intake. As soon as the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the temperature of the coolant to a user-specified level, the controller will turn on the fan, the air flow will open the damper and a fire will break out in the firebox. Periodic “shutdown” of the boiler in combination with an increased volume of the firebox allows you to extend operation on one load of fuel up to 10 - 12 hours with wood and up to 24 hours with coal. The automation of the Polish company KG Elektronik has proven itself well: a controller with a temperature sensor - model SP-05, a fan - model DP-02.

The firebox and heat exchanger are wrapped in basalt wool (thermal insulation) and placed in the housing.

The process of making a boiler with your own hands.

First of all, you need to prepare all the necessary preparations:

1. Steel sheets 4 - 5 mm thick for making a firebox. The best way Alloy steel of heat-resistant grades 12Х1МФ or 12ХМ (with additions of chromium and molybdenum) is suitable, but it needs to be welded in an argon environment, so the services of a professional welder will be needed. If you decide to make a firebox from structural steel (without alloying additives), then you should use low-carbon grades, for example, Steel 20, since high-carbon grades may lose their ductility due to exposure to high temperatures (they are hardened).
2. Thin sheet steel 0.3 - 0.5 mm thick, painted with a polymer composition (decorative cladding).
3. 4mm structural steel sheets for the body.
4. Pipe DN50 (fire pipes inside the heat exchanger and pipes for connecting the heating system).
5. Pipe DN150 (pipe for connecting the chimney).
6. Rectangular pipe 60x40 (air intake).
7. Steel strip 20x3 mm.
8. Basalt wool 20 mm thick (density - 100 kg/cubic m).
9. Asbestos cord for sealing openings.
10. Factory made door handles.

Welding of parts should be performed with MP-3S or ANO-21 electrodes.

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DIY heat exchanger for a solid fuel boiler

First, the firebox is assembled from two side, one rear and one upper walls. The seams between the walls are made with full penetration (they must be airtight). A 20x3 mm steel strip is welded horizontally from below to the firebox on 3 sides, which will serve as the bottom of the water jacket.

Next, to the side and rear walls of the firebox, you need to weld short pieces of small-diameter pipe in a random order - the so-called clips, which will ensure the rigidity of the heat exchanger structure.

Now the outer walls of the heat exchanger with pre-made holes for the clips can be welded to the bottom strip. The length of the clips should be such that they slightly protrude beyond the outer walls, to which they need to be welded with a sealed seam.

In the front and rear walls of the heat exchanger above the firebox, coaxial holes are cut into which flame tubes are welded.

All that remains is to weld the pipes to the heat exchanger for connection to the heating system circuit.

Boiler assembly

The unit must be assembled in the following sequence:

1. First, the body is made by attaching the side walls and frames of the openings to its bottom with short seams. The bottom frame of the ash pit opening is the bottom of the housing itself.
2. From the inside, corners are welded to the body on which the firebox grate pan (grid) will be placed.
3. Now you need to weld the grill itself. The corners of which it consists must be welded with the outer corner down, so that the air coming from below is evenly distributed over the two inclined surfaces of each corner.
4. Next, a firebox with a heat exchanger is welded to the corners on which the grate is laid.
5. The doors of the firebox and ash pan are cut from steel sheet. From the inside they are framed with a steel strip laid in two rows, between which an asbestos cord must be laid.

Now we need to weld the mating parts of the door hinges and several 20 mm wide brackets to which the casing will be attached to the boiler body.

The heat exchanger must be lined on three sides and on top with basalt wool, which is tightened with a cord. Since the insulation will be in contact with hot surfaces, it should not contain phenol-formaldehyde binders and other substances that emit toxic volatile substances when heated.

The sheathing is screwed to the brackets using screws.

An automation controller is installed on top of the heat generator, and a fan is screwed to the air duct flange.

The temperature sensor must be placed under the basalt wool so that it is in contact with the rear wall of the heat exchanger.

If desired, the boiler can be equipped with a second circuit, allowing it to be used as a water heater.

The circuit has the form of a copper tube with a diameter of about 12 mm and a length of 10 m, wound inside the heat exchanger on flame tubes and brought out through the rear wall.

For information for the article, we thank our colleagues: microklimat.pro, v-teple.com

Water hammer in the heating system

Open type expansion tanks for heating systems

From the author: We welcome you, dear friends! Many owners country houses value an individual approach to creating a heating system; preference is almost always given homemade equipment. How to make a water heating boiler with your own hands, taking into account safety precautions and maximum efficiency? In this article we will study the topic of assembly and installation of several types of devices.

For heating private houses and cottages, experts advise using exclusively safe types of fuel, namely electricity, coal, wood or pellets.

Please note that in this material you will not find instructions for assembling gas and diesel boilers, since their installation in the house is prohibited. The competent authorities will not allow the insertion of a boiler you assembled yourself into the circuit gas pipe. If violations of this kind are discovered “retrospectively,” then you, as the owner of the living space, will be held administratively liable.

Advantages of manual assembly

The operating principle of such equipment, regardless of what it operates on, is quite simple. When burned, fuel releases thermal energy. It enters the heat exchanger and heats the water circulating in the system.

The boiler operation scheme, its external parameters and characteristics directly depend on two main factors:

• what materials you will use to make the boiler;
• what type of fuel is most affordable in your region.

However, hand-assembled boilers also have a very important advantage - they are focused on the individual needs of your household. In this regard, everything depends only on you.

Efficiency

• heat exchanger device. The amount of heat that is transferred to this same coolant (usually water) directly depends on the area of ​​direct thermal contact between the container with the coolant and the firebox;
• completeness of fuel combustion. If the boiler design is unsuccessful, pyrolysis gas may escape into the pipe along with combustion products. The fact is that when it is burned, the efficiency of the unit increases significantly. Another sign of an ill-conceived heating boiler assembly is an insufficient flow of oxygen to the combustion chamber.

• When designing a boiler for water heating, the master must take care of the lowest possible temperature of the combustion products. This indicator is inversely proportional to the efficiency of the device;
• Are you trying to ensure the safety and durability of your boiler? Then take care of the same indicator - the temperature of the combustion products. The lower it is, the better;
• for factory models of boilers this figure ranges from +120 to +150 degrees.

How does a water boiler work?

• samovar-type water boiler. In this design, the fuel burns inside a container with coolant (water). Typically this type of boiler is used in Russian baths;
• water boiler with coil. In it, the coolant flows through the pipes of a heat exchanger laid through the firebox. This type of boiler has a popular variety in which the coil does not pass through the firebox, but directly behind it - where the combustion products come out.

Preparation for production

Boilers are usually made of sheet steel. The optimal material thickness is 4–5 mm. If you can afford it, get a heat-resistant variety. Considering that it is quite expensive, many craftsmen use ordinary stainless steel.

The first step before developing a diagram of the future unit is to determine the method of circulation of the coolant through the heating system. If the water moves on its own, using the principle of gravitational circulation, then the water tank will need to be raised to a fairly large height. In this case, you will need large diameter pipes throughout the entire area. If the pipe diameter is not large enough, then you will not be able to do without installation circulation pump.

It is worth describing in a few words the features of the heating system with forced circulation of coolant. It has both advantages and disadvantages. The pipes used in this system have a small diameter, which means they are cheaper. In addition, the tank that heats the coolant does not need to be raised high. These were advantages, but among the disadvantages we can note the dependence of the system on the availability of electricity. The boiler may simply explode if the power goes out in your home.

Tips from the pros:

• It is recommended to make heating circuits and pipes welded to the boiler from pipes with a diameter of at least 32 mm;
• Considering that during an emergency stop of the circulation pump, the water temperature rises sharply and its movement slows down, care should be taken to ensure that the heating circuit is in good working order. It is better to assemble it using galvanized pipes. Do not forget to ensure the tightness of the connecting threads using red lead and flax tow.

Types of boilers

The simplest version of such a unit looks like this: a tube that acts as a firebox is inserted inside another tube (of larger diameter) with thick walls. The cavity between them is filled with water. Note that wood-burning boilers can be safely heated with other types of solid fuel, namely: coal, peat briquettes.

A pyrolysis boiler is more efficient than a wood boiler, although it runs on the same fuel - wood. The fact is that if you burn wood with a lack of oxygen at a temperature of +200 to +800 degrees, it will decompose into two elements: pyrolysis gas and wood coke. If oxygen is added to the gas, ignition occurs with intense heat release.

This type of heating unit also has disadvantages: it is important to comply with the requirements for wood humidity (no more than 30%), and the materials for the manufacture of such a stove will cost much more than for a wood-burning analogue. True, the cost of the boiler should pay off fairly quickly.

In boilers running on waste oil, diesel fuel can also be used as fuel. The principle of their operation is as follows: oil drips onto a hot pan and evaporates, transforming into gases, which, when burned, heat up the coolant.

They consist of a heating element placed inside a tube. The tube stands vertically. The supply is connected to it from above, and the return line from below. Water circulates naturally.

Tools and materials

• sheet metal ( metal barrel, pipe of decent diameter, old stove);
• steel tubes;
• profile pipes or radiators (if you chose water as the coolant);
• bolts, nuts;
• dampers (you can make them yourself or buy them; used ones are also suitable);
• door.

We invite you to watch a video about assembling a boiler for water heating of a private house with your own hands.

Installation in a brick oven

1. Consider the location of the boiler installation.
2. Make markings and prepare the foundation.
3. You should prepare the mortar needed for laying bricks. Take sand and clay in a 2:1 ratio. Please note that the percentage components the solution will depend on the quality of the clay. The clay should be soaked overnight, then mixed using a special drill attachment.
4. When the foundation is ready, it's time to take care of waterproofing. You can use a sheet of roofing material for this. How to choose it? The dimensions of the sheet must be at least 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the boiler.
5. Ruberoid needs to be filled cement screed and smooth it out.
6. The outer contour of the future stove is laid out with red brick. Silicate is not suitable for these purposes. You can also put battle inside the structure.
7. The wall must be brought to the level of the blower door. Next you should put a metal sheet at an outward angle. This is necessary to make it more convenient to remove the ash.
8. The next step is to mount the door.
9. Now you can lay out the outline of the blower.
10. Install the boiler itself and the combustion door.
11. The last step is to lay out the chimney, and you can start using it.

To summarize, we note that the manufacture and installation of a boiler for a water heating system is quite a feasible job for experienced craftsman. On the Internet you can find many useful training videos on this issue. We hope that this material will be useful to you and you will cope with the task perfectly. Good luck and see you again!

In recent years, heating units that burn solid fuel have become increasingly popular. This is no coincidence, because energy resources are becoming more and more expensive, while wood or coal continue to be affordable fuels. However, due to the growing demand for such equipment, it begins to become more expensive and not everyone can afford to purchase it. An alternative is homemade boilers for heating a private home, which will cost much less and will work no worse than factory ones.

Advantages and principle of operation

In addition to low cost, this type of installation has other advantages:

• A skillfully made unit from high-quality materials will withstand critical loads at excess coolant pressure of up to 4 Atm. This situation often happens with solid fuel heaters, since the circulation of the coolant may stop for various reasons, and then the water in the jacket and heat exchanger of the unit boils. Result - high pressure the steam ruptures the heat exchanger at its weakest point.
• There are great opportunities for upgrading the design, especially if you make the heater yourself. Then a homemade solid fuel heating boiler is made specifically according to your requirements, for your heating system and the type of fuel available to you.
• You can improve the installation in stages. For example, this year there was only enough money to make a basic model. If possible, next year you can buy and add an automation kit during the break between heating seasons, and so on.

Sectional view of a wood fired boiler

Operating practice different types installations burning wood shows that the most acceptable and simplest option is to manufacture and use classic homemade direct-burning wood boilers for heating the house. The principle of their operation is simple: the wood in the firebox burns with the natural draft of the chimney, giving off heat to the water jacket and the heat exchanger. The latter operates according to a fire-tube scheme, that is, high-temperature flue gases pass through the smoke tubes of the heat exchanger and directly transfer heat to the water that washes them. Adjustment of the combustion intensity is carried out by the ash pan door (in common parlance - a blower), the opening of which meters the amount of air entering the firebox through the grate.

The following arguments support the choice of the classic design:

• ease of manufacture;
• convenience and accessibility of self-service;
• no restrictions on wood moisture content;
• high maintainability and the ability to correct deficiencies identified during operation.

Typically, home-made boilers for the home are made entirely of metal, since it is impossible to make a cast-iron firebox at home, and it is expensive to buy. It is a common practice for homeowners to order heating units from craftsmen who specialize in their manufacture. In this case, it is recommended to take personal part in the process at all stages, from the purchase of materials to testing. finished product. Otherwise, after a few years you may encounter defects caused during procurement or assembly work.

Homemade wood boiler

Since homemade solid fuel heating boilers operate at high temperatures in the combustion chamber, for its manufacture it is best to use alloyed heat-resistant steel (in common parlance – stainless steel) 5 mm thick. Considering the high cost of this metal and the complexity of welding work, many people take thick steel sheets of ordinary quality. You need to understand that such a product cannot be durable; ordinary steel will deform due to temperature changes. Therefore, in such cases, it makes sense to protect the chamber walls with refractory bricks, then they will last longer. However, the firebox will have to be made larger, and the weight of the body will increase.

The metal for the water jacket can be taken of ordinary quality St 20 with a thickness of 3 mm. For reference: pipes for hot water and steam are made from this steel. Accordingly, it is better to take the smoke tubes of the heat exchanger of the same grade of steel with a diameter of 48-76 mm. Often, homemade wood heating boilers operate in heating systems with forced circulation during power outages, so the design of the water jacket must be made as rigid as possible. To do this, along the entire plane of the outer walls of the firebox, stiffeners made of metal strip or corner profile should be welded with a pitch of 120-150 mm. The outer walls of the tank need to be welded to these same ribs. Then, when the water boils, the casing of the shirt will not inflate, it will be able to withstand the steam pressure.

It is better to make the firebox and ash doors two-layer, placing a fire-resistant heat-insulating material between the layers of metal: asbestos, basalt fiber or a combination of both. The body of the unit should be insulated with the same materials. The door flaps must be sealed with asbestos cord, and the hinges must be adjustable. They are made from threaded rods with a hinge welded at the end. Locking handles must be equipped with nozzles made of ebonite or textolite so that when opening the door you do not burn your hands.

Connection features

Simple homemade wood heating boilers work effectively with good natural draft provided by the chimney. Therefore, its pipe in the boiler body should be approximately 150 mm in diameter, and the height of the pipe itself should be at least 5-6 m to create sufficient working draft. The ignition process is simplified if you organize a direct draft channel in the combustion chamber, bypassing the heat exchanger, equipped with a damper and a handle extending outside the side wall. The channel opening must be the same diameter as the chimney and be located exactly opposite its pipe.

Heating system of a private house

Plays an important role during operation correct harness solid fuel unit. If the heating system is gravitational and can operate without electricity, then there will be no problems. But when accelerating the boiler, it is better to prevent cold water from the system from entering the jacket, since this will cause condensation to appear on the internal walls of the furnace. It mixes with ash and settles on the surface in the form of a black coating, which is very difficult to clean off. Therefore, at the coolant outlet from the unit, it is better to make a bypass with a thermostatic three-way valve set to a temperature of 55 or 60 degrees. Then the coolant circulates in a small circle until it heats up to 60⁰, and then the thermostat begins to mix in cold water from the system.

If the heating system of a private house operates with a pump, then there is a danger of the boiler boiling when the electricity is turned off. It is necessary to take measures to protect the unit from destruction:

• Inserting a safety valve into the water jacket will allow steam to be released from it if a certain pressure is exceeded.
• An uninterruptible power supply complete with a diesel power plant will enable the pump to continue operating. The source's battery can only maintain operation for a certain period of time, which is why an electricity generator is needed.
• Installing a heat storage tank will ensure natural circulation of water from the tank to the boiler and the latter will not boil. This container will be able to maintain heating of a private home after the wood in the firebox burns out.

Conclusion

Due to its low cost and ease of operation, a homemade wood heating system often becomes the only affordable alternative to expensive gas and electricity. You just need to make it well and install it correctly in your a private house to obtain heat from available fuels.