How to connect heating in a private house. Heating a private house: types, features, technology, step-by-step instructions. Nuances of water heating

Properly organizing home heating is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists - designers and installers - can handle it best. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the entire range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, you need to have a good understanding of all stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its goal is to help you solve the problem of installing heating yourself or competently supervise hired specialists and installers.

Heating system elements

In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated with water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms using a coolant, and it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list further when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy carriers.

Any heating system, where the coolant serves as the transfer link, is divided into the following components:

• heat source;
• pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
• heating devices (radiators or heating circuits for underfloor heating).

For the purpose of processing and regulating the coolant, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following items:

• expansion tank;
• circulation pump;
• hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• buffer capacity;
• distribution manifold;
• indirect heating boiler;
• devices and automation equipment.

Note. A mandatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank; other equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a confined space there is nowhere for its additional volume to go. To avoid rupture of connections due to increased pressure in the network, an open or membrane type expansion tank is installed. She takes in excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and if there are several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and a heat accumulator. Separating the boiler circulation circuit from all others is practiced in complex systems of cottages with several floors.

Collectors for coolant distribution are installed in heating systems with heated floors or in cases where a radial battery connection scheme is used, we will discuss this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil where water for domestic hot water needs is heated from the coolant. To visually monitor the temperature and pressure of water in the system, thermometers and pressure gauges are installed. Automation tools (sensors, thermostats, controllers, servos) not only control the parameters of the coolant, but also regulate them automatically.

Shut-off valves

In addition to the equipment listed, the water heating of the house is controlled and maintained using shut-off and control valves shown in the table:

Once you have become familiar with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. All sellers of heating equipment like to use the first method, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is a calculation of thermal power based on the area of ​​heated premises.

They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 W. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing up the indicators for all rooms. We suggest a more accurate method:

• by 100 W, multiply the area of ​​those premises where only 1 wall, on which there is 1 window, is in contact with the street;
• if the room is a corner one with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
• when a room has 2 external walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130 W.

If we consider power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may not receive enough heat, and residents of the south of Ukraine may overpay for equipment that is too powerful. Using the second, calculation method, heating design is carried out by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before you begin the calculations, you need to measure the house, finding out the area of ​​the walls, windows and doors. Then you need to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which the walls, floors and roofs are built. For all materials in the reference literature or on the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W/(m ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer and then sum the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat lost through the external building structure using the formula:

• QTP = 1/R x (tв – tн) x S, where:
• QТП – lost amount of heat, W;
• S is the previously measured area of ​​the building structure, m2;
• tв – here you need to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
• tн – street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, alternately substituting into the formula the values ​​of thermal resistance and area for the external wall, window, door, floors and roof. Then all these results must be summed up, this will be the heat loss of the given room. The area of ​​internal partitions does not need to be taken into account!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, you need to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that’s not all, because we must also take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:

Qair = cm (tв – tн), where:

• Qair – required amount of heat for ventilation, W;
• m – amount of air by mass, defined as the internal volume of the building multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
• (tв – tн) – as in the previous formula;
• с – heat capacity of air masses, is taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand for the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The boiler power is taken with a reserve for the optimal operating mode, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here you need to take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for domestic hot water supply, then the power reserve must be increased. The boiler must operate effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the energy carrier or type of fuel used. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with a brief description of their pros and cons. To heat residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of household heat generators:

• solid fuel;
• gas;
• electrical;
• on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose an energy carrier, and then a heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 types: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to their low operating costs, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all the heating equipment including installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are being purchased by people more and more often.

On the other hand, operating a solid fuel heat source is very similar to simple stove heating. You need to spend time and effort to prepare, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. The unit also requires serious piping to ensure its long-lasting and safe operation. After all, a conventional solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of water does not stop immediately. And efficient use of generated energy is possible only if there is a heat accumulator.

Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis units - 80%, and pellet units - no more than 83%.

The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator, characterized by a high level of automation and virtually no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

Gas boilers

An excellent option is to install heating that operates on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest energy-independent unit is at least 87%, and the efficiency of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to monitor or change settings. A budget unit will be much cheaper than a solid fuel unit, so gas boilers can be considered generally available.

Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity of gas equipment is steadily declining.

Electric boilers

It must be said that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only are the efficiency of boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys or ventilation. There is practically no maintenance of the units as such, except for cleaning once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: equipment and installation are very cheap, and the degree of automation can be any. The boiler simply does not need your attention.

No matter how pleasant the advantages of an electric boiler are, the main disadvantage is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you will not be able to beat a wood-burning heat generator in terms of this indicator. This is the price to pay for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second disadvantage is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately cancel out all thoughts about electric heating.

Liquid fuel boilers

In terms of the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating with waste oil or diesel fuel will cost approximately the same as with natural gas. Their efficiency indicators are also similar, although the processing, for obvious reasons, is somewhat inferior. Another thing is that this type of heating can easily be called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end with at least the smell of diesel fuel or dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot up to your waist.

Using diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution; the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Used oil has also risen in price, unless you have some cheap source. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, a main gas supply. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the exhaust furnace will not be able to burn methane.

Heating system diagrams for a private home

Heating systems sold in private housing construction can be single-pipe or double-pipe. It's easy to distinguish them:

• according to a single-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both a supply and a return, passing by all the batteries in the form of a closed ring;
• in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe and returned through the other.

Choosing a heating system layout for a private home is not an easy task; consultation with a specialist will certainly not hurt. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe one, but also more complex. This topic is covered in great detail in the video:

The fact is that in a single-pipe system, the water from radiator to radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe distribution lines. And lastly: automatic control with a single-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or dacha with up to 5 radiators, you can safely implement a single-pipe horizontal circuit (common name - Leningradka). With a larger number of heating devices, it will not be able to function normally, because the last radiators will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes occur quite often and work successfully.

With a two-pipe distribution, the coolant is delivered to all radiators at the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. Dividing the lines into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries using thermostatic valves.

The diameters of the pipelines are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are the following types of two-pipe schemes:

dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (arms), through which the coolant moves along the highways towards each other;

associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (radial). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the installation method is hidden, in the floor.

If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then a circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. To be fair, we note that both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function without a pump. If only conditions were created for natural water circulation.

The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion tank at the highest point, communicating with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If you install a membrane-type expansion tank on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern option, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of coolant.

It is impossible not to mention the method of heating a house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive, since you will need to lay hundreds of meters of pipes in a screed, resulting in a heating water circuit in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important advantage is the economical, uniform heating of rooms, which is very comfortable for people. Underfloor heating circuits are clearly recommended for use in any residential buildings.

Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can safely recommend adopting a conventional two-pipe circuit with forced circulation of coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.

Heating system installation

We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources that burn different types of fuel and have an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.

For natural water movement, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the ground floor radiators.

The location where the heat generator will be located must be selected taking into account the minimum permissible distances to walls or other equipment. Typically these intervals are specified in the manual supplied with the product. If this data is not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

• passage width on the front side of the boiler is 1 m;
• if there is no need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
• distance to the nearest equipment – ​​0.7 m;
• when placing two boilers next to each other, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, and opposite each other - 2 m.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed; you only need to maintain clearance in front of the unit for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the wiring of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. Here we must take into account that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models are equipped with an expansion tank. First, let's look at the connection diagram for a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This tying method is the most common. The pump with a bypass line and a sump tank is located on the return line, and there is also an expansion tank there. The pressure is controlled using pressure gauges, and air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. Piping an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for domestic hot water needs, the pipe layout and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall-mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial flue is used, which is led out horizontally through the wall. If the firebox of the unit is open, then you need a traditional chimney with good natural draft. How to properly install a chimney pipe made of sandwich modules is shown in the figure:

In country houses with a large area, it is often necessary to connect a boiler with several heating circuits - a radiator, heated floors and an indirect heating boiler for DHW needs. In such a situation, the optimal solution would be to use a hydraulic separator. It will allow you to organize independent circulation of coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then the basic heating diagram for a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, thanks to which it operates independently of the others. Since coolant with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to heated floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They add hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the heated floor circuits drops.

With solid fuel heat generators the situation is more complicated. Their strapping should take into account 2 points:

• possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit; the firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
• formation of condensation when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.

To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return side, and on the supply side there should be a safety group located immediately behind the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial; it is the valve that will relieve excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping diagram is required:

Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not allow water from the system into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 °C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:

Advice. Due to the nature of their operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners install two different heat sources in the furnace room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. For this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and an electric boiler working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and wood heat generator, supplying heat to heat the house and prepare water for hot water supply:

To install the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. The modern market offers several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private homes:

• steel;
• copper;
• stainless steel;
• polypropylene (PPR);
• polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
• metal-plastic.

Heating lines made of ordinary “ferrous” metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and “overgrowth” of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to independently install such pipes: you need good welding skills to make a hermetically sealed joint. However, some homeowners still use steel pipes to this day when they install autonomous heating at home.

Copper or stainless steel pipes are an excellent choice, but they are too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if you have the means, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel is joined using dismountable or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially when the installation is hidden.

Advice. For piping boilers and laying pipelines within the boiler room, it is best to use any type of metal pipes.

Heating made from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, you need to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only advantage, since installing heating from polypropylene pipes is quite a complex and responsible task. And in appearance, polypropylene is inferior to other plastic products.

The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are made by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will certainly leak later, but if it is overheated, the melted polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, you won’t be able to see this during assembly; flaws will make themselves known later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid “saber” bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

It is much easier to make your own heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are the most convenient, since the joints here are made quite simply. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: connections must be made using press fittings, not collapsible ones.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water-heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that it tends to return to its original state, which can cause the installed heating manifold to appear slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and easily bend as you need. More information about choosing pipes is described in the video:

An ordinary homeowner, going to a heating equipment store and seeing a wide selection of different radiators there, can conclude that choosing batteries for his home is not so easy. But this is the first impression; in fact, there are not so many varieties of them:

• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel panel and tubular;
• cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Sectional batteries made of aluminum alloy have the best heat transfer rates; bimetallic heaters are not far behind them. The difference between the two is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This was done for the purpose of using the devices in centralized heat supply systems of high-rise buildings, where the pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage makes no sense at all.

It should be noted that heating installation in a private home will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer rates are lower than those of aluminum ones, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to designer ones.

Steel and aluminum heating devices have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic control using thermostatic valves. The same cannot be said about massive cast iron batteries, on which it is pointless to install such valves. This is due to the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time and then retain heat for some time. Also because of this, the rate of heating of the premises is reduced.

If we touch on the issue of appearance aesthetics, then the cast-iron retro radiators currently offered are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost incredible amounts of money, and inexpensive Soviet-style accordions MS-140 are only suitable for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion suggests itself:

For a private home, buy those heating devices that you like best and are comfortable with in terms of cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and thermal power.

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

The number of sections or the size of a panel radiator is selected based on the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning; it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for a temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room equal to 70 °C. To do this, the water in the battery must warm up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the real thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than that indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper heating of the premises, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer margin is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you must take heating devices with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.

Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank external walls. In this case, connection to highways can be done in several ways:

• lateral one-sided;
• diagonal scalene;
• lower - if the radiator has appropriate pipes.

The lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when connecting it to risers, and the diagonal connection to horizontally laid highways. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat evenly.

When a single-pipe heating system is installed, the lower versatile connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are models of radiators where the design provides for connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and, in fact, they have a one-sided side circuit. This can be clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

A lot of useful information on the issue of choosing heating devices can be found by watching the video:

5 common mistakes during installation

Of course, when installing a heating system, you can make many more than five mistakes, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

• incorrect choice of heat source;
• errors in heat generator piping;
• incorrectly selected heating system;
• careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
• improper installation and connection of heating devices.

A boiler with insufficient power is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat rooms, but also to prepare water for domestic hot water needs. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the hot water system will not heat up to the required temperature.

Parts play not only a functional role, but also serve safety purposes. For example, it is recommended to install the pump on the return pipeline just before the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap in the area between the boiler and the safety group; this is absolutely unacceptable.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point; with a closed circuit, it is placed on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a mud trap mounted in a horizontal position with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines using American connections.

When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incurring additional costs to bring it to fruition. Most often, errors occur when installing single-pipe systems, when they try to “hang” more than 5 radiators on one branch, which then do not heat up. Flaws during the installation of the system include failure to comply with slopes, poor-quality connections and installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or a regular ball valve is placed at the inlet of the radiator, and a balancing valve is installed at the outlet to adjust the heating system. If pipes are installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the way. When joining polypropylene pipes, you must scrupulously adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.

Choosing a coolant

It is well known that filtered and, if possible, desalted water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, for example, periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with a non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all regular rubber gaskets from the system. Antifreeze quickly causes them to become limp and leaks occur.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is shown in its technical data sheet. This must be checked when purchasing it.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through a make-up valve and a check valve. During the filling process, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and manual Mayevsky taps. In a closed circuit, pressure is monitored using a pressure gauge. Usually when cold it is in the range of 1.2-1.5 Bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 Bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the replenishment when it flows out of the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system using a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. To ensure that the process is not interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of appropriate capacity, from where it must be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into the expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you carefully understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that installing a heating system in a private house on your own is quite possible. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including monitoring the installation if you decide to hire specialists for this.

It is difficult to imagine a modern home without a heating system. There are various ways to create such systems. The difference usually lies in the fuel used - gas, coal, pellets, firewood. Heating boilers are divided into gas, solid fuel, pellet and electric. For any craftsman, drawing a diagram and assembling a heating system for his home is a completely solvable task. It’s no secret that most heating schemes were invented by ordinary people, practitioners, not burdened with scientific titles and regalia.

The benefit of making your own heating circuit is a significant reduction in financial costs. Of course, when choosing gas heating, you will have to pay for the development of the project and the work of licensed specialists for the installation and initial startup of the boiler. If you plan to install a solid fuel boiler, then all stages from the sketch to the launch of the system can be carried out independently. Undoubtedly, creating a heating system for a private home is a complex engineering task.

Of course, specialists with experience in design and installation will solve this problem faster and better. If a decision is made to involve them, then it is necessary to clearly determine the degree of their participation in the creation and installation of the system circuit. Possible options:

Private houses are heated by heating systems. They use a convenient and universal method of delivering heat using a coolant. You can heat the coolant in various ways. Often, owners use several water heating devices.

Any heating scheme in a private house consists of the following components:

If you want to create heating for a private house with your own hands, the schemes are selected based on the possibilities. There are few options, there are only two:

Determining which heating scheme for a private home is optimal is difficult, especially for a non-specialist, so you should definitely consult a professional. Most heating circuit specialists are convinced that a two-pipe heating circuit for a private house is optimal. There is a misconception that a single-pipe system costs less.

The opinion of many experts is the opposite - it is more expensive and more difficult to set up and adjust. The principle of its operation is the sequential movement of liquid through the radiators, which means that the temperature drops from battery to battery, so it is necessary to increase the power of the system. The main pipe is selected with a larger diameter. In addition, the mutual influence of heating devices on each other is very strong. This influence makes automatic control difficult.

Where is a single-pipe heating scheme used?

Heating of small houses is successfully provided by the Leningradka heating scheme, which has as many as four varieties. Among them are two types of one-pipe/two-pipe open systems and two one-pipe/two-pipe closed systems.

For a small house, a do-it-yourself heating system for a private house is chosen to be a single-pipe scheme, but if the number of batteries is no more than 5, if there are more of them, then the last radiators do not warm up well. When starting the heating of a two-story house, the Leningradka circuit also works successfully, but the number of batteries is no more than six.

Single-pipe vertical heating systems work better.

Heated coolant of the same temperature is supplied to all vertical risers, and the batteries of the upper and lower floors are connected in series.

Features of two-pipe circuit wiring

The two-pipe system comes in several varieties. They have a different connection diagram for heating radiators in a private house, and a different vector of coolant movement.

In small private houses, the following types of two-pipe heating systems are used:

1. dead end;
2. passing;
3. collector (radial).

Brief characteristics of two-pipe systems

Dead-end system - the entire pipeline network consists of two arms (branches), one for supply and the other arm for coolant return. The movement of water occurs in counter directions.

Associated two-pipe system - the return arm serves as a continuation of the supply arm (branch), i.e. the system is looped. This heating connection scheme in a private house is deservedly popular.

Collector is the most expensive heating distribution scheme for a private house due to the need to lay pipes to each battery, and their installation is hidden.

Open "gravity" two-pipe system

Let's consider the heating system installed in a private house with our own hands; a two-pipe open circuit was chosen and an open tank was installed at the top point of the circuit. The pressure that determines the speed of fluid movement in the “gravity” system depends on the height of the tank. The main advantage of a two-pipe system is that water flows to the radiators at the same temperature, and a clear separation of pipelines into supply and return makes it easier to automate control.

For successful operation of the “gravity” system, a slope of 3-5 mm/m is ensured during installation. Due to gravity, any type of heating system can operate if the necessary conditions are created - the slope of the coolant supply lines for natural circulation. It must be taken into account that the “gravity” system can only work with an open expansion tank.

Closed two-pipe system

When installed in a private house, the circuit chosen is closed, and its appearance depends on the number of floors of the building. If the house is one-story, then two pipeline branches are laid - supply and return, and heating devices are connected to them in parallel.

And in order to install the heating of a two-story private house with your own hands, the wiring diagrams must contain the required number of liquid supply branches. One branch of the collector should power the batteries on the upper floor, the second branch should power the batteries on the lower floor. The water that has given up its heat returns to the boiler through the “return”. A closed system must have a circulation pump to create pressure.

Warm floor - uniform and comfortable heating

Schemes of heating systems for a private home are becoming popular - comfortable heated floors. The practical implementation of such a project involves laying hundreds of meters of pipes, usually made of polypropylene, under the screed to assemble the heating circuit. The ends of the pipes go to the distribution manifold. The liquid in the heated floor line moves separately.

Heating system installation

It is possible to positively resolve the problem - how to install heating in a private house (the diagram is given above) if you follow certain rules and the sequence of work. Installation work begins with the installation and subsequent piping of the boiler. Gas boilers with a power of up to 60 kW are installed in the kitchen. All rules for installing boilers are described in detail in the instructions for them.

Piping a heating boiler is the process of connecting the necessary equipment.

There are two ways to install a heating circuit from gas and water (metal) pipes - welding and using threaded connections. Of course, you can quickly create a system using the welding method, but it will turn out to be non-separable. By connecting the system pipes with threaded connections, you can easily change the configuration or replace any section of the pipeline at any time. For any installation method, the connection diagram for heating radiators in a private house requires special attention, and it must be drawn and calculated in advance.

Double-circuit heating system

DHW (hot water supply) is created by a double-circuit heating system of a private house; its wiring diagram is drawn before installation begins, and then installed to the selected hot water supply point. Gas consumption when using a dual-circuit system increases slightly. With intensive hot water extraction, consumption is 25% higher.

Features of the use of polypropylene pipes

Implementing a heating scheme in a private house made of polypropylene has many advantages. Polypropylene pipes are cheaper and lighter than metal pipes, they do not rust. Plastic pipes do not need painting, they look good and do not deteriorate the interior of the room. The procedure for creating a heating system from polypropylene pipes is reminiscent of assembling it from a construction set. Pipes are quickly and efficiently connected using a welding unit.

The following equipment, tools and materials are used for installation of polypropylene pipes:

Note: the amount of necessary materials, tools and components is determined before installation, after drawing the heating circuit diagram. Couplings, ball valves and fittings are purchased depending on the type of boiler, the selected design and the size of the polypropylene pipe.

Water electric heating

If you use electric heating of a private house with your own hands, the circuit connection diagrams are described above. An electric boiler can be designated as the main source of heat or as a backup if the house already has a heating source, for example a gas boiler. An electric boiler consumes significant power, so the wiring cross-section must correspond to the current consumed.

It is not at all necessary to make reinforced wiring throughout the house; it is enough to lay a suitable cable from the meter to the boiler. Since an electric boiler is a device that heats water, a closed system or a gravity heating system for a private house will work with it, using a standard scheme. Pipeline diagrams are no different from the diagrams described above.

To create electric heating, three types of electric boilers are used:

1. electrode;
2. induction;
3. boiler using heating elements.

It is believed that a heating element boiler that has stood the test of time is more reliable. It is advisable to fill the system with softened water so that there is less scale on the heating elements. Electric boilers have high efficiency, but the main obstacle to their widespread use is the rising price of electricity.

This guide is intended for owners of small private houses who want to independently organize home heating in order to save money. The most rational solution for such buildings is a closed heating system (abbreviated as ZSO), operating with excess coolant pressure. Let's consider its operating principle, types of wiring diagrams and do-it-yourself device.

Operating principle of closed CO

A closed (otherwise known as closed) heating system is a network of pipelines and heating devices in which the coolant is completely isolated from the atmosphere and moves forcibly - from a circulation pump. Any SSO necessarily includes the following elements:

• heating unit - gas, solid fuel or electric boiler;
• safety group consisting of a pressure gauge, safety and air valve;
• heating devices - radiators or underfloor heating circuits;
• connecting pipelines;
• a pump that pumps water or non-freezing liquid through pipes and batteries;
• coarse mesh filter (dirt collector);
• closed expansion tank equipped with a membrane (rubber “bulb”);
• shut-off valves, balancing valves.

Note. Depending on the design, the ZSO additionally includes modern devices for regulating temperature and coolant flow - radiator thermal heads, check and three-way valves, thermostats, and the like.

The operating algorithm of a closed type system with forced circulation looks like this:

1. After assembly and pressure testing, the pipeline network is filled with water until the pressure gauge shows a minimum pressure of 1 bar.
2. The automatic air vent of the safety group releases air from the system during the filling process. He also removes gases that accumulate in pipes during operation.
3. The next step is to turn on the pump, start the boiler and warm up the coolant.
4. As a result of heating, the pressure inside the ZSO increases to 1.5-2 Bar.
5. The increase in the volume of hot water is compensated by a membrane expansion tank.
6. If the pressure rises above the critical point (usually 3 Bar), the safety valve will release excess liquid.
7. Once every 1-2 years, the system must undergo an emptying and flushing procedure.

The principle of operation of an apartment building's SSS is absolutely identical - the movement of coolant through pipes and radiators is ensured by network pumps located in an industrial boiler room. There are also expansion tanks there; the temperature is regulated by a mixing or elevator unit.

How a closed heating system functions is explained in the video:

Positive qualities and disadvantages

The main differences between closed heat supply networks and outdated open systems with natural circulation are the lack of contact with the atmosphere and the use of transfer pumps. This gives rise to a number of advantages:

• the required pipe diameters are reduced by 2-3 times;
• the slopes of the highways are kept to a minimum, since they serve to drain water for the purpose of flushing or repairs;
• the coolant is not lost by evaporation from an open tank, therefore, you can safely fill pipelines and batteries with antifreeze;
• ZSO is more economical in terms of heating efficiency and cost of materials;
• closed heating is better regulated and automated and can operate in conjunction with solar collectors;
• the forced flow of coolant makes it possible to organize floor heating with pipes embedded inside the screed or in the grooves of the walls.

A gravitational (gravity-flowing) open system outperforms the ZSO in terms of energy independence - the latter is unable to operate normally without a circulation pump. Point two: a closed network contains much less water and in case of overheating, for example, a TT boiler, there is a high probability of boiling and the formation of a vapor lock.

Reference. A wood-burning boiler is saved from boiling by a buffer tank that absorbs excess heat.

Types of closed systems

Before you buy heating equipment, pipeline fittings and materials, you need to choose the preferred option for a closed water system. Master plumbers practice installation of four main circuits:

1. Single-pipe with vertical and horizontal wiring (Leningrad).
2. Collector, otherwise – radial.
3. Double-pipe dead-end with arms of the same or different lengths.
4. The Tichelman loop is a circular route with associated water movement.

Additional Information. Closed heating systems also include water heated floors. It is much more difficult to assemble radiator heating; it is not recommended for beginners to undertake such installation.

We propose to consider each scheme separately, analyzing the pros and cons. As an example, let’s take the project of a one-story private house with an area of ​​100 m² with an attached boiler room, the layout of which is shown in the drawing. The amount of heat load for heating has already been calculated, the required amount of heat is indicated for each room.

Installation of wiring elements and connection to a heat source is performed in approximately the same way. The installation of a circulation pump is usually provided in the return line; a sump tank, a make-up pipe with a tap and (if viewed downstream) are mounted in front of it. Typical wiring for a solid fuel and gas boiler is shown in the diagrams.

Read more about installation and methods of connecting heating units using various energy sources in separate manuals:

Single-pipe wiring

The popular horizontal “Leningradka” scheme is one ring main of increased diameter, into which all heating devices are connected. Passing through the pipe, the flow of heated coolant is divided at each tee and flows into the battery, as shown in the sketch below.

Having transferred heat to the room, the cooled water returns back to the main line, mixes with the main flow and moves to the next radiator. Accordingly, the second heating device receives water cooled by 1-3 degrees and again takes the required amount of heat from it.

Result: increasingly cold water flows into each subsequent radiator. This imposes certain restrictions on a closed one-pipe system:

1. The heat transfer of the third, fourth and subsequent batteries must be calculated with a margin of 10-30%, adding additional sections.
2. The minimum diameter of the line is DN20 (internal). The outer size of PPR pipes will be 32 mm, metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene – 26 mm.
3. The cross-section of the supply pipes to the heaters is DN10, the outer diameter is 20 and 16 mm for PPR and PEX, respectively.
4. The maximum number of heating devices in one Leningradka ring is 6 pieces. If you take more, problems will arise with increasing the number of sections of the last radiators and increasing the diameter of the distribution pipe.
5. The cross-section of the ring pipeline does not decrease throughout its entire length.

Reference. Single-pipe distribution can be vertical - with lower or upper distribution of coolant through risers. Such systems are used to organize gravity flow in two-story private cottages or operate under pressure in old apartment buildings.

A single-pipe closed-type heating system will be inexpensive if it is soldered from polypropylene. In other cases, it will significantly hit your pocket due to the price of the main pipe and large fittings (tees). What the “Leningradka” looks like in our one-story house is demonstrated in the drawing.

Since the total number of heating devices exceeds 6, the system is divided into 2 rings with a common return manifold. The inconvenience of installing single-pipe wiring is noticeable - you have to cross doorways. A decrease in flow in one radiator causes a change in water flow in the remaining batteries, so balancing the “Leningrad” consists of coordinating the operation of all heaters.

Advantages of the beam scheme

Why the collector system received such a name can be clearly seen in the diagram presented. From the comb installed in the center of the building, individual coolant supply lines diverge to each heating device. The lines are laid in the form of rays along the shortest path - under the floors.

The collector of the closed beam system is fed directly from the boiler; circulation in all circuits is provided by a single pump located in the combustion chamber. In order to protect the branches from airing during the filling process, automatic valves - air vents - are installed on the comb.

Strengths of the collector system:

• the circuit is energy efficient because it allows you to accurately dose the amount of coolant sent to each radiator;
• the heating network is easy to fit into any interior - supply pipes can be hidden in the floor, walls or behind a suspended (suspended) ceiling;
• hydraulic balancing of the branches is carried out using manual valves and flow meters (rotameters) installed on the manifold;
• water is supplied to all batteries at the same temperature;
• the operation of the circuit is easy to automate - the manifold control valves are equipped with servo drives that close the flow according to a signal from the thermostats;
• ZSO of this type is suitable for cottages of any size and number of floors - a separate collector is installed at each level of the building, distributing heat to groups of batteries.

From a financial investment point of view, a closed beam system is not very expensive. A lot of pipes are consumed, but their diameter is minimal - 16 x 2 mm (DN10). Instead of a factory comb, it is quite acceptable to use one soldered from polypropylene tees or twisted from steel fittings. True, without rotameters, adjustment of the heating network will have to be done using radiator balancing valves.

There are few disadvantages of beam wiring, but they are worth attention:

1. Hidden installation and testing of pipelines is carried out only at the stage of new construction or major repairs. It is unrealistic to install radiator lines in the floors of a lived-in house or apartment.
2. It is highly desirable to locate the collector in the center of the building, as shown in the drawing of a one-story house. The goal is to make the connections to the batteries approximately the same length.
3. In the event of a leak in a pipe embedded in a floor screed, it is quite difficult to find the location of the defect without a thermal imager. Do not make connections in the screed, otherwise you risk encountering the problem shown in the photo.

Two-pipe options

When installing autonomous heating of apartments and country houses, 2 types of such schemes are used:

1. Dead-end (another name is shoulder). The heated water is distributed to the heating devices through one line, and is collected and flows back to the boiler through the second line.
2. The Tichelman loop (passing distribution) is a circular two-pipe network where the heated and cooled coolant moves in one direction. The principle of operation is similar - the batteries receive hot water from one line, and the cooled water is discharged into the second pipeline - the return line.

Note. In a closed associated system, the return line starts from the first radiator, and the supply line ends at the last one. The diagram below will help you figure it out.

What is good about a dead-end closed heating system for a private house:

• the number of “arms” - dead-end branches - is limited only by the power of the boiler installation, so two-pipe wiring is suitable for any building;
• pipes are laid open or closed inside building structures - at the request of the homeowner;
• as in the radial circuit, equally hot water comes to all batteries;
• ZSO lends itself well to regulation, automation and balancing;
• correctly laid out “shoulders” do not cross doorways;
• In terms of the cost of materials and installation, a dead-end wiring will be cheaper than a single-pipe one if the assembly is carried out using metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes.

Designing a closed shoulder system for a country house or residential building with an area of ​​up to 200 square meters is not particularly difficult. Even if you make branches of different lengths, the circuit can be balanced through deep balancing. An example of wiring in a one-story building of 100 m² with two “shoulders” is shown above in the drawing.

Advice. When choosing the length of the branches, the heating load should be taken into account. The optimal number of batteries on each “arm” is from 4 to 6 pcs.

The Tichelman loop is an alternative version of a closed two-pipe network, which involves combining a large number of heating devices (over 6 pieces) into a single ring. Take a look at the associated wiring diagram and note: no matter what radiator the coolant flows through, the total length of the route will not change.

This results in almost ideal hydraulic equilibrium of the system - the resistance of all sections of the network is the same. This significant advantage of the Tichelman loop over other closed wiring also entails the main disadvantage - 2 lines will inevitably cross the doorway. Bypass options are under the floors and above the door frame with the installation of automatic air vents.

Choosing a heating scheme for a country house

1. Dead-end two-pipe.
2. Collector.
3. Two-pipe associated.
4. Single-pipe.

Hence the advice: you can’t go wrong if you choose the first option for a house with an area of ​​up to 200 m² - a dead-end scheme; it will work in any case. Beam wiring is inferior to it in two respects - price and the possibility of installation in rooms with finished finishing.

A single-pipe version of the heating network is perfect for a small house with a square footage of each floor of up to 70 m². The Tichelman loop is appropriate for long branches that do not cross the door, for example, heating the upper floors of a building. How to choose the right system for houses of various shapes and number of storeys, watch the video:

Regarding the selection of pipe diameters and installation, we will give several recommendations:

1. If the area of ​​the home does not exceed 200 m², it is not necessary to carry out calculations - use the advice of the expert in the video or take the cross-section of the pipelines according to the diagrams given above.
2. When you need to “hang” more than six radiators on a branch of a dead-end wiring, increase the diameter of the pipe by 1 standard size - instead of DN15 (20 x 2 mm), take DN20 (25 x 2.5 mm) and lay it to the fifth battery. Next, run lines with a smaller cross-section specified initially (DN15).
3. In a building under construction, it is better to do radial wiring and select radiators with bottom connections. Be sure to insulate underground lines and protect them with plastic corrugation at the intersections of walls.
4. If you don’t know how to properly solder polypropylene, then it’s better not to mess with PPR pipes. Install heating made of cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic on compression or press fittings.
5. Do not embed pipeline joints in walls or screed, so as not to have problems with leaks in the future.

Heating of the premises of a country cottage can be organized in various ways - a stove, gas or electric convectors, infrared devices and other air heaters. But for living rooms, traditional water heating remains the preferred option. The installation of such a system in a private house or apartment begins with choosing the right scheme, taking into account the layout of the building and the placement of heating equipment.

How the system works

If you plan to conduct heat into the premises yourself, it is worth understanding the design and operating principle of water heating. Three components of any scheme:

• installation that generates thermal energy and transfers it to water;
• piping;
• heating devices located in heated rooms.

Note. Shut-off valves - taps, balancing valves, mixing valves - are always part of the wiring. Additional equipment – ​​, – are included in the boiler or are mounted separately.

The operating principle of the system is based on the transfer of heat from a source to heating devices through a liquid working fluid - ordinary water, capable of absorbing a large amount of energy (specific heat - 4.18 kJ/kg °C). In some cases, a non-freezing liquid is used - an aqueous solution of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. How does this happen:

1. By burning hydrocarbon fuel or consuming electricity, the installation heats water to a temperature of 40...90 degrees.
2. The hot coolant moves through the pipes using a pump or naturally (due to convection) to water radiators.
3. Heat exchange occurs between the heating devices and the air in the rooms - the water flowing through the radiator cools by 10-20 °C, and the atmosphere of the room warms up. Plus, the hot surface of the radiator emits infrared thermal radiation.
4. The cooled coolant is returned through the line to the heat generator, where it is again heated to the required temperature.
5. Excess water formed during thermal expansion enters a special container. When the temperature in the system drops, the liquid contracts again and leaves the expansion tank.

Reference. Intense generation of infrared heat by the surface of the batteries begins at temperatures above 60 °C.

Before heating, remember one rule: heating efficiency practically does not depend on the volume of water in the system. This indicator only affects the rate of heating/cooling of the house when starting or stopping the heat generator.

Let's list the really important characteristics:

• temperature difference at the inlet and outlet of the home heater, maximum permissible - 25 degrees;
• source power – heat loss through external walls must be selected + air heating for ventilation;
• coolant flow - the volume of water passing through heating devices within 1 hour;
• the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline network together with radiators should ideally not exceed 1 Bar (10 m of water column).

An explanation regarding the total volume of coolant in the pipes will be given by expert Vladimir Sukhorukov in his video:

Types of boilers and other water heating devices

The efficiency of heating in a private house depends on the installation that heats the working fluid (water). A correctly selected unit generates the amount of heat required for radiators and an indirect heating boiler (if available), economically consuming energy.

An autonomous water system can be powered by:

• a hot water boiler that uses a specific fuel - natural gas, firewood, coal, diesel fuel;
• electric boiler;
• wood-burning stoves with a water circuit ();
• heat pump.

Addition. There are combined types of heaters that simultaneously combine 2-3 energy carriers, for example, coal - natural gas, wood - electricity (one copy is shown below in the photo). There are also universal boilers where you can install a diesel nozzle, gas or pellet burner - your choice.

Most often, boilers - gas, electric and solid fuel - are used to organize heating in cottages. The latter are manufactured only in floor-standing versions, the rest of the heat generators are wall-mounted and stationary. Diesel units are used less frequently, the reason being the high price of fuel. How a domestic hot water boiler is discussed in a detailed manual.

Stove heating combined with water registers or modern radiators is a good solution for heating a summer house, garage and small residential house with an area of ​​50-100 m². The disadvantage is that the heat exchanger placed inside the stove heats the water uncontrollably. To avoid boiling, it is important to ensure forced circulation in the system.

Reference. Previously, such schemes were made by gravity - without a pump, with an open expansion tank. Registers and mains were welded from steel pipes with a diameter of 40...80 mm (internal), laid with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m for better gravity flow. The heating was called steam because the system was not afraid of boiling.

Heat pumps are not widely used in the countries of the former Soviet Union. Causes:

• the main problem is the high cost of equipment;
• due to the cold climate, air-water devices are simply ineffective;
• geothermal systems "earth - water" are difficult to install;
• electronic units and compressors of heat pumps are very expensive to repair and maintain.

Due to the high price, the payback period for the units exceeds 15 years. But the efficiency of the installations (3-4 kW of heat per 1 kilowatt of electricity expended) attracts craftsmen who are trying to assemble home-made analogues from old air conditioners.

1. The diameter of the main pipe is at least 20 mm (internal passage), which corresponds to the outer size of metal-plastic 26 mm, polypropylene - 32 mm. The specified cross-section remains the same along the entire length of the pipeline.
2. The number of batteries in 1 branch is a maximum of 6 pieces, otherwise you will have to increase the diameter of the distribution pipe to 32-50 mm. Installation becomes more complicated and becomes more expensive by 15-20% (minimum).
3. Since less heated water reaches distant radiators, their heat exchange surface needs to be increased by 10...30%, adding the number of sections.
4. Manual or automatic adjustment of the flow through one heater affects the operation of other devices, since the temperature and flow of water in the common line changes.

Reference. In Soviet-built apartment buildings, vertical single-pipe systems are used, where batteries are connected to risers; the “Leningradka” principle is preserved. Similar schemes, only in miniature, are used in two-story private cottages when it is necessary to organize gravity flow.

A single-pipe closed water heating circuit is suitable for country houses and residential houses with an area of ​​60...100 m². Two floors are not a problem, the system is divided into 2 ring branches, converging at the tees near the boiler, one pump is used.

Two-pipe circuits - ring and dead-end

A characteristic difference is the division of hot and cooled coolant into 2 lines - supply and return. Here two pipes come to the batteries - one is where water enters the radiators, and through the other it flows back to the boiler. There are 2 systems used for heating homes:

1. In a dead-end circuit, the coolant flows along the main line to the last device, then returns through the return line - flowing in the opposite direction.
2. In the Tichelman annular loop, water does not change direction after leaving the battery. That is, the coolant in both lines flows in one direction.

Addition. The first system consists of one or several dead-end branches - arms of different or equal lengths. The second is made in the form of one or several closed rings converging on the boiler.

Advantages of two-pipe battery connection methods:

• small diameters of lines - 15-20 mm (internal);
• all radiators are filled with coolant of the same temperature;
• there are no restrictions on the number of heaters on 1 line;
• the system can be automated and adjusted; changing the flow rate or completely disconnecting one battery does not affect the operation of neighboring ones;
• correctly assembled associated wiring is well balanced hydraulically;
• low installation costs.

It’s easy to assemble a dead-end circuit with your own hands - it forgives minor mistakes and is easy to balance. It is more difficult with the Tichelman loop - in a one-story building, a double main will certainly cross the entrance door opening, which will have to be piped around from above or below under the floors.

Collector system

Here, the connection of radiators is organized in a radial manner from a distribution comb located close to the center of the building. It is connected to the boiler by two pipes, and each battery has its own two-pipe line - supply and return. Radiator connections go to the devices along the shortest path - they are hidden in the floor screed or attached under the ceiling of the lower floor.

Note. Air is removed from hidden pipelines through automatic air vents installed on the comb.

Beam scheme - preserving the advantages of a dead-end system. There are additional advantages:

• pipes, connections and a cabinet with a manifold are hidden inside building structures, so the scheme is suitable for any interior solutions;
• convenience and ease of regulation (balancing), controls are located in one place - the distribution cabinet;
• If you equip the thermostatic valves of the comb with servo drives and install an electronic control unit, you can fully automate the water heating of the building.

To connect the heaters to the collector, cross-linked polyethylene pipes Ø10 mm (internal section), protected by a thermal insulation shell, are used. A line with a diameter of 26...40 mm is laid from the boiler plant to the comb, depending on the number of consumers.

Disadvantages of beam wiring:

• in a lived-in house it is difficult to install pipelines to radiators - open the screed or cut out the grooves;
• high cost of materials and work;
• the circuit does not work without a pump;
• Highways laid inside a concrete monolith cannot be altered or replaced.

Finally, about the advantages and disadvantages

First, let's reveal the main disadvantages of this heating:

• significant investments during construction - the homeowner bears the costs of purchasing materials, equipment and installation;
• during operation, it is necessary to monitor the operation of the thermal power plant, diesel and wood-burning boilers must be loaded with fuel on time;
• there is a possibility of leakage or defrosting of heating network elements.

The listed shortcomings cannot be called critical. The investment gradually pays off; if there is a lack of funds, installation is carried out independently. The likelihood of leaks is reduced to zero due to high-quality assembly and filling of non-freezing coolant (antifreeze), if the heating is turned on periodically.

The list of advantages looks much more impressive:

As you understand, the publication is for informational purposes and will be useful to homeowners who have not decided on the method of heating their home. You will find more detailed instructions on choosing thermal power equipment, pipes and fittings used on other pages of our resource (transitions are highlighted in blue in the text of the article).

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Classmates

How to make heating in a private house? Perhaps this will be the very first and most important question that you will ask if you decide to move from a noisy city apartment to your own cozy house or if you want to radically remodel the stove heating system inherited from your grandparents and replace it with something more modern and automated. The level of comfort, coziness and warmth in your home will depend on what decision you make now. Which heating method will be the most efficient and economical? What type of heating is best for you? It's time to get answers to all these questions! And it is best to start with general concepts and principles.

What heating to do in a private house

Modern heating systems must meet certain requirements.

Correct ratio prices and quality. When we talk about quality, we mean high efficiency, in which the maximum required amount of heat is provided for the minimum possible amount of money.

Maximum automation available. Modern heating systems should not require frequent intervention in their operation. Almost all home owners want to set up their heating system once and leave it alone. This is possible when using high-quality modern heating systems.

Reliability. Obviously, no one wants to repair the heating system every six months from failures and breakdowns. Also, in addition to the requirements for the quality of its parts and the system itself as a whole, it is worth mentioning the price - it is unlikely that anyone will prefer a heating system whose price is comparable to the cost of a house.

1. Easy to install. The big advantage of the heating system will be the ease of installation and minimal costs for this. Sometimes, to install a heating system in a private house with your own hands, you need to buy special tools that may not be useful in the future.

The cost of a heating system in a private home depends on the price of materials, the level of thermal insulation, the number of doors, windows, the fuel of the system itself, the heated floor and the complexity of the system.

External conditions are the factor that primarily influences the choice of heating system for a private home. This also includes both the subtleties in the installation of each heating system and the ever-increasing price of fuel.

If you arrange energy resources in ascending order of price, they will look like this:

Main gas;

• Liquefied gas;

  Waste oil;

  Electricity.

This list may undergo minor changes depending on the region, but its general appearance will not change. Gas heating in a private home will always be the cheapest option, while heating using electricity will require the greatest costs.

It is worth remembering that fossil resources are not infinite, they will not fall much in price, and recently there has been a tendency to switch to the use of renewable energy sources. At the moment, a heating system in a private home based on such sources is quite expensive, but operating costs will be extremely low.

How to make economical heating in a private house

Heating with wood and coal

Making stove heating is a traditional and widespread option for a heating system in private homes. Most often, a large Russian stove is found in village houses. Having significant dimensions and weight, it takes a long time to heat up, but it also does not give off heat very quickly. The heating of the air in the house depends on the temperature of the stove itself and the distance of the rooms from it - the further the room, the cooler it will be.

If a private house has a large area, then you can make stoves in every room. But heating them every day is not the easiest or quickest task, and besides, each of the stoves will need regular cleaning. What option do those who cannot afford heating with electricity and do not have access to a gas main have?

Many people in this situation heat private homes using water. Since often in remote settlements the most accessible type of fuel is coal and firewood, they are used to heat the stove on which a boiler with water is mounted. The heated water moves through pipes from the boiler to individual rooms; in this way, heating a private house is not very expensive.

If the task is to arrange heating in a small country house that is not intended for permanent residence, then the best option for such housing is to install a “potbelly stove.” Long-burning pyrolysis furnaces are gaining popularity. They contain a significant amount of firewood, which does not burn immediately due to the limited supply of air inside the stove. In this way, the room is heated and maintained without the need to frequently add firewood to the stove.

Gas heating

Even if there is no central gas pipeline in a private house, it is possible to install gas heating. In this case, an autonomous gas tank is installed near the house.

If gas is supplied to the house (or there is such a possibility), then the owner of the house gets access to the cheapest fuel. Gas heating usually consists of a boiler and radiators in the house. Unlike a stove system, a gas heating system can be set up once and no longer need to maintain the heating process. Automation will work, which needs to be monitored occasionally.

In a private house, you can install a one- or two-pipe heating system. The first will be cheaper due to a reduction in the number of pipes themselves. In this article we will also pay attention to how to make one-pipe heating in a private house, however, such a system is demanding on the temperature of heating water in the radiators (at least 90 degrees Celsius) so that there is enough heat at the end of the heating chain. For the same purpose, high pressure must be ensured in such a system. These factors lead to increased wear and tear of the entire system. Therefore, most often they use a two-pipe system for heating a private house. Its peculiarity lies in the presence of two pipes for each battery in the house - supply and return. This way ensures uniform heating of all radiators and makes it possible to set the required temperature in each room of the house. Naturally, the cost of such a system will be higher.

When using a boiler-generator, the price of heating a private house depends on the specific fuel. If you use diesel fuel, heating will be relatively inexpensive, and liquid fuel is quite convenient to store and use. The pipe diameter also affects the savings. Forced coolant circulation requires a smaller size than natural circulation. Accordingly, pipes for a forced circulation system will be cheaper, but this option includes an electric pump, which adds electricity costs.

Electrical heating

Heating with electricity in a house that is lived in all year round will not be cheap. If making heating in a private home, the price of which does not exceed your cost plans, is a fundamental point for you, then it is better to try to use other heating systems and purchase more expensive equipment. The advantages of electric convectors and electric boilers are that they have a low price and require simple installation. Compared to heating systems that use wood or diesel fuel, electric heaters have a significantly lower fire hazard. They also allow you to manually adjust the temperature, which directly affects savings.

However, heating with electricity is only good for houses that are visited from time to time, since installing a more expensive heating system will take a very long time to pay off or may not pay off at all. An electric boiler is also suitable as a backup or additional heat source if the main source runs on coal or wood.

To save money, you can install solar panels, heat pumps or geothermal systems.

To summarize, we can say that the cheapest fuel for heating will be gas. Far behind in this aspect are firewood and coal; liquid fuels will be even more expensive. Electricity will always be the most expensive. As for the heating systems themselves, no clear conclusions can be drawn here. A lot will depend on the area of ​​the house, the materials from which the house is built, and the distance from the highway (in the case of gas heating).

In order to understand how best to make heating in a private home, you need to take into account fuel prices, the price of the equipment itself and its installation, the general ease of use of the heating system, as well as the need for heating itself. It is possible that the best option would be to spend a significant amount at the beginning of construction, and then save on operation, thereby recouping the costs. A prime example of this is alternative energy sources. For example, the cost of installing solar panels, heat pumps or geothermal systems in a private home will be very high, but after installation, the operation of these devices is completely free, which will lead to a quick payback.

Savings lie not only in the correct choice of heating system and low fuel price. You can significantly reduce heating costs by insulating the house itself. It happens that even when building a private house, people think about insulation. Automation is also a good way to save money, as it will maintain a comfortable temperature in the house at minimal cost. If you are going to leave for a long time, then you can set a lower temperature threshold that will not lead to freezing of the house and will allow you to significantly save on heat without wasting it on heating an empty room.

How to properly make heating in a private house with your own hands and where to start

As they say, they dance from the stove. In modern permanent homes, you need to start with a heating boiler. However, the choice of a boiler is not an end in itself; its purchase must be justified by the project, taking into account the area where the private house is built and the characteristics of this house.

Heating system project for a private house

To design a home heating system, a floor plan of the heating supply structure is required, indicating the necessary tolerances, dimensions and other parameters. As a rule, organizations involved in such projects make three-dimensional drawings of heating houses. An example of such a project is shown below.

An integrated approach when designing a heating system for a home should take into account a number of important points.

Proper positioning of the building in relation to the communications suitable to it, from the gas pipeline to the electrical network.

The correct location of the building on the cardinal points - so that enough light enters the house through the windows.

Modern windows that prevent heat leakage through the frame. As a rule, these are three-chamber windows with a ventilation valve.

Using the greenhouse effect: even if there are large windows, if there is a heat source in the room (for example, a fireplace), and if this room is on the sunny side, the temperature in it will not fall below 20–22 degrees Celsius even in severe frost. There will also be no need for additional heating devices.

You can also install a fireplace (even if it is electric), which will serve as an autonomous energy source, and it also creates additional comfort.

Not only the external walls of the house must be insulated, but also the internal partitions - ceilings, walls, floors. If the house has several floors, then it is necessary to insulate the upper floors as well.

Upholstered furniture in rooms retains heat perfectly.

If the above-described conditions are implemented in your private home, its owner will be able to feel comfortable and not turn on the heating system for an extra two weeks. You can also turn off the heating system in such a house two weeks earlier without losing the comfortable temperature inside.

A heating project for a home assumes the presence of a heat supply system, which can be of the following types.

Air - this type does not require the installation of batteries and pipes. However, difficulties may arise in maintaining a constant temperature in the house, and the efficiency of such a system will not be stable due to the strong influence of the external environment. Nevertheless, this cottage heating project will be cheaper than all other options.

Electric - such a system could have been much more popular if not for the limited power of the electrical network for many consumers. In general, a system designed to use electricity to heat a home will have an increased cost in both maintenance and use, since the price of electricity is quite high.

Infrared is the most modern type of design, which fully meets all requirements for heating systems. Plus, recently such projects tend to become cheaper, since technologies do not stand still, but are constantly improving.

Pipeline is the most popular system and also the cheapest. To use it, you need to install a mini-boiler room, which will contain sensors, pumps and a heating boiler.

The choice between these designs remains with the owner of a private house. However, in any case, consultation with specialists is required. If you try to solve this issue yourself, without the necessary experience and knowledge, you can make many irreparable mistakes that will lead to increased waste of money and time.

Using an example, you can understand how to correctly calculate heating for a home.

But that's not all: it is also necessary to take into account heat loss through the windows of the house and due to the place where the house is built. To take these factors into account, correction factors are used:

In the southern regions, a coefficient of 0.7–0.9 is used;

In the Moscow region – 1.2–1.5;

In the northern regions – 1.5–2.0.

If it is intended to use hot water for household needs, then when planning the heating system it is necessary to increase the boiler power by at least a quarter.

This is not a definitive list of requirements for a heating boiler, but they will allow you to determine the necessary parameters of the heating system.

A complete and final calculation requires knowledge of a special technique, taking into account additional factors and must be performed by an experienced and qualified specialist.

It is better to learn and understand in advance how to install a heating system and use hot water for heating.

About coolant circulation

Usually hot water acts as a coolant. When installing heating in a private house, you need to consider how its circulation will occur - natural or forced.

1. Natural circulation. This method is based on raising hot water and lowering cold water. Thus, there is no need for special devices that move the coolant. In addition, heating based on this type of circulation is autonomous and does not depend on other resources. However, this raises the necessary requirements for installing such a system:

The coolant return pipe must have a smaller cross-section than the supply pipe;

The hot water container should be higher than other elements of the system;

To allow water to flow into the batteries by gravity, the pipes must be positioned at an angle to them;

The boiler should be the lowest located element of the heating system.

When choosing a heating system with natural circulation, you should take into account that such heating is only possible for a not very large room - up to 150 square meters. m. But with this method there will be complete autonomy.

1. Forced circulation. As the name of the method suggests, the movement of coolant in the system is carried out by a pump pumping water through the heating circuit. It has no restrictions on the heated area and installation method.

Types of installation

The most common types of installation are the following.

Single-pipe. With this installation, the coolant moves sequentially through all the batteries, leaving some heat in each of them. As a result, the last radiators in the chain heat up much less than the first, and the temperature in such rooms is lower. The advantages of such a device are that installation is quite simple, and its price will be relatively low, since fewer pipes are required.

Two-pipe. In such a system, water from the central line enters each battery and is returned back. This type of installation is much more efficient than single-pipe installation, but making it is also a more expensive and labor-intensive process.

Installation methods

It will be much easier if you let specialized companies do this work. Despite the significant cost (tens of thousands of rubles), as a result, your home will have a high-quality heating system, designed for your home and completed on a turn-key basis.

In principle, such work can be done independently. It is necessary to take into account a number of important factors, watch videos on the Internet, read training materials and instructions in books. With this approach, the cost of installation will consist of purchased materials and equipment.

Heating a private home is a complex system. However, knowing its structure and the requirements that it must meet is necessary to make the optimal decision when choosing a particular system for your own private home. This knowledge will also help to assess the level of required costs.

How to install heating in a private home and avoid 5 common mistakes during installation

It cannot be said that only five mistakes can be made when installing a heating system in a house. But we will talk about the most significant of them, the presence of which will lead to dire consequences. These are the errors.

Error when choosing a heat source.

Incorrect heat generator piping.

Initially incorrect heating system.

Poor quality installation of pipes and fittings.

Errors during installation and connection of heating devices.

A typical mistake is choosing a boiler with insufficient power. As a rule, such a mistake can be made when it is intended not only for heating, but also for preparing water for hot water supply. If you install a boiler with insufficient power, the heat generator will not be able to function normally, and the water will not be at a sufficient temperature either in the radiators or in the taps.

The boiler piping not only performs its direct functions, but is also a safety element. Thus, the pump is installed, as a rule, on the return pipeline in front of the heat generator and on the bypass line. The pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap between the boiler and the safety group, which is strictly prohibited.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).

You can calculate the size of the expansion tank based on the total volume of coolant (usually 10% of it). In an open scheme, the tank is mounted at the top point, in a closed scheme - in front of the pump on the return line. A mud trap is installed between them, and it should be in a horizontal position with the plug pointing down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipes using American connections.

Shortcomings when choosing a heating system for a private home lead to unnecessary financial costs - first you overpay for materials and installation, and then pay to have the system brought into working condition. Most often, mistakes are made when choosing and installing single-pipe systems: they hang more than 5 batteries on one branch, poorly connect sections, and choose the wrong angle and fittings.

How to make heating in a private house - video

What pipes to use for heating in a private house

The tightness of the entire heating system will depend on the correct choice of pipes, so their quality cannot be neglected. The pipes are tasked with not only maintaining the selected temperature, but also maintaining the coolant in a closed circuit. Thus, the selected pipes must have high strength characteristics.

Conventionally, pipes can be divided into two large groups:

Plastic-based pipes are in consistently high demand, especially those made of polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. A distinctive feature of the first material is abrasion resistance, the second is resistance to chemicals;

Metal pipes also do not lose popularity. Their advantage is high strength. Pipes made of copper or stainless steel have high corrosion resistance (which cannot be said about other materials in this group).

To carry out heating in a private house, you need to choose one type of pipes yourself. The following pipes are best suited for a private home:

Steel;

• Made of stainless steel;

  Polypropylene;

  Polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);

  Metal-plastic.

A pipeline made of “ferrous” metal has become a thing of the past, as it has low corrosion resistance and is prone to “overgrowing” of the cross-section. In addition, in order to independently install pipes from such a material, you need to have high welding skills to ensure the tightness of the joints. However, some owners of private houses do not refuse such pipes to install their heating system.

Pipes made of copper or stainless steel can be a good choice, but it cannot be called a budget choice. These materials show good resistance to high pressure and temperature. Thus, if you have sufficient finances, such pipes will be an excellent choice. The joining of coolant elements made of copper will be more difficult, since soldering skills will be required, but those made of stainless steel are connected using press or collapsible fittings. If you want to carry out hidden pipe wiring, then it is better to choose the latter option.

Advice. Inside the boiler room, it is better to use metal pipes for piping the boiler and installing lines.

For a budget heating option in a private house, you need to choose polypropylene (PPR) pipes. Of all their types, you should prefer those reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum foil. Installing such elements is a complex and error-prone task.

PPR pipes are joined by soldering fittings, but their quality cannot be checked. If soldering was carried out at an insufficiently high temperature, the joint will leak, but if there was overheating, the passage channel will be blocked. The worst thing about this is that it is not possible to find out about errors during installation. The results of incorrect installation will only appear during operation. Another disadvantage is the deformation of the material due to heating. To prevent the pipe from getting a saber shape, when soldering it is necessary to secure it into movable supports and provide clearance between the wall and the ends of the pipe.

The easiest independent installation will be when using metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes. The price will be higher than that of PPR pipes. However, it will be quite easy for a beginner to make joints on these materials. Also, such pipes are suitable for laying in a screed or wall, but their joints must be made with press fittings; collapsible ones are not allowed.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene materials are used both for open and closed installation, as well as for the installation of heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that this material tends to return to its original state. Externally, such an element will look slightly wavy. Metal-plastic and PE-RT pipes do not have such problems and can be bent at the required angle.

Note. At the moment, a composite material – metal-plastic, combined into different layers – is gaining popularity. The metal base is located inside, which allows you to maintain the desired shape.

How to make water (steam) heating in a private house

For water heating of a private house, various types of heat generators are suitable: stoves, boilers (gas, electric, solid fuel), and you can also use different methods of heating rooms: using radiators or heated floors. You need to choose the option that will be optimal for your home.

At the moment, the most successful heating method would be a gas boiler connected to a central gas pipeline.

If for some reason it is impossible to provide access to the gas main, then you should use an electric boiler. The only question is the possibility of paying for expensive electricity to operate it. In addition, the house will need a three-phase input to connect an electric boiler with a power of more than 4 kW. A device with less power will not be enough for a large house.

If heating with electricity is also not suitable for you, you can consider a solid fuel boiler or a stove with a water circuit as an alternative.

You can also heat your house with water using bottled gas or liquid fuel, a solar power plant or a heat pump, but these are quite rare methods.

There are cases when several different heat generators are connected to the heating system of a house, which work in turn or as needed.

The choice of the type of water heating that you will independently install in your home should be made before purchasing pipes and the necessary equipment. Each of these types has its own characteristics that are worth considering so as not to waste money. If you plan to lay metal pipes, then any boiler will suit them. If you prefer the more common plastic or metal-plastic pipes, you need to know in advance whether they are suitable for the type of heating system you have chosen.

Installation of water heating includes the following steps:

Installation of a boiler (or boilers);

Battery installation;

Pipe layout;

Installation of additional equipment;

Summary of elements into a single system - welding (or soldering) of fittings, connections.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Stage 1. Installation of the boiler

The boiler is installed in a place where it will be easiest to install pipes around the house at minimal cost. If the boiler is gas or electric, then it is worth taking into account the location of the gas pipeline or wiring to the house.

If the boiler is solid fuel or a stove with a water circuit is planned, then the installation location is chosen based on the capabilities of the chimney installation in this location of the house.

The height of the boiler is a significant factor only when planning the natural circulation of the coolant. In this case, you need to position the return inlet to the boiler as low as possible. It is ideal to install a solid fuel boiler in the basement or ground floor of a house. In the case of stove water heating, it is necessary to place the firebox with a heat exchanger at the lowest possible height, as far as the design of the stove allows.

Stage 2. Installation of radiators

Typically, batteries are installed under windows or near the entrance to the house. Depending on the type of radiator, fasteners are chosen for it. The heavier the battery, the more reliable its installation must be.

The location of the battery is strictly horizontal, the minimum distance from the floor is 60 mm, from the window sill - 100 mm. It is advisable to equip each radiator with shut-off valves, an automatic air valve and a regulator. A shut-off valve (faucet) is needed to disconnect the battery from the general heating system if necessary. An air valve will be required to bleed air from the radiator - both when starting the system and during its operation.

Stage 3. Piping and installation of additional equipment

Before wiring, a wiring diagram is drawn up. It uses fittings suitable for a specific type of pipe.

The wiring can be open - the pipes are in plain sight, or hidden - the pipes are removed into grooves in the wall or floor and sealed with plaster or putty.

Stage 4. Welding polypropylene pipes

When soldering PPR pipes, a bead should form at the joint. A uniform passage over the entire diameter of the pipe is required.

To make traces of linear expansions invisible, use a compensator, which is mounted in an inconspicuous place.

Heating of the joined element with a soldering iron lasts no more than 5 seconds at a temperature of 270 degrees Celsius.

After joining, the parts must be held for some time in a certain position (as stated in the welding instructions).

Depending on the heating, the coupling shifts towards the side, which leads to the formation of a special mark. The elements must be pressed against each other.

The soldering iron has two nozzles designed for different sides.

If welding is performed on large diameter parts, the heating time can be significantly increased. However, it is important to remember that prolonged heating of parts is contraindicated, as combustion may occur (detected by a brown tint). In addition, it is possible to overlap the internal section.

Along with pipe routing, radiators are connected and additional equipment for the heating system is installed. For closed systems with forced circulation, such equipment will be a circulation pump, a hydraulic storage tank, filters, and a safety unit. For open systems with natural circulation - an expansion tank (mounted at the highest point). If the open system has forced circulation, then the expansion tank is placed in front of the pump and installed as high as possible - in the attic or under the ceiling.

How to make electric heating in a private house

Electric heating comes in different types depending on the devices used in them. Such devices are:

Electric convectors;

Oil radiators;

Fan heaters;

Infrared heaters;

Warm floors (electricity based);

Electric boilers.

For self-installation in your own home, any of the above equipment is suitable. Some of these devices only need to be connected to the mains and have their own circuit breaker in the panel. More serious expenses are required, for example, for heated floors or an electric boiler, but such work is quite possible.

Water electric heating of a private house

To install this type of heating in a house, it is necessary to install water heating and install an electric boiler. It can be heating element, induction or electrode. The advantage of heating with electricity is that it does not require heating devices in every room of the house. The electric boiler is mounted in a place convenient for pipe distribution, and pipes and a battery are installed in each room.

If the house initially has a water heating system, then it is enough to buy and connect an electric boiler to it. Its parallel operation together with the previous heating source or instead of it is possible. A small re-equipment of the entire system - and everything is ready.

The disadvantages of such a system for a private home will be the presence of water, which can freeze or leak, and the need to install a pipeline (respectively, batteries, taps, etc.).

Electric heated floors

This method of heating in a private home has recently become increasingly popular. With this option, direct heating is provided by an electric cable, which can be hidden in a concrete screed or laid under the floor surface.

Installing such a heating system yourself requires certain skills and knowledge.

First you need to choose the type of electric heated floor: heating cable, mats, ultra-thin film - each of them has its own connection and installation features.

Regardless of the type of floor, before installing it, you need to insulate its base so that the heat from the electric floor itself goes up and does not dissipate.

To regulate floor heating, special thermostats are installed in each room. They can work both automatically and manually.

Typically, electric heated floors are not installed in all rooms, but under the tiles of a bathroom or toilet, or in the kitchen. Also, this type of heating is rarely used as the main one; more often it is combined with other types of heating systems.

How to make heating in a private house - diagram

Heating systems installed in private houses can be single-pipe or double-pipe.

Single-pipe scheme involves connecting radiators to a single collector, which simultaneously performs the functions of return and supply, passing through all batteries in the form of a closed ring.

In a two-pipe scheme The coolant enters the battery through one pipe and returns through another.

To choose the right heating scheme, it is advisable to contact a specialist. The two-pipe heating scheme is more modern and reliable. Moreover, despite the apparent simplicity and cheapness of the one-pipe circuit, it can be argued that it is both more expensive and more complex than the two-pipe circuit.

Single-pipe schemes

Since in this scheme the water, passing from radiator to radiator, loses more and more heat, it is necessary to increase the power by adding sections in the battery. In addition, the supply manifold must be larger in diameter than the manifold in a two-pipe scheme. Also, in a single-pipe circuit it is difficult to establish automatic control due to the mutual influence of the radiators.

For a country house or small house where there will be no more than five batteries, it is well suited single-pipe horizontal circuit(or, as it is also called - Leningradka). If there are more than five radiators, then the functionality of this circuit will drop to zero, since the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story house. This is a relatively common scheme that has proven its effectiveness.

Two-pipe schemes

At two-pipe wiring The coolant delivers water of the same temperature to all radiators, which makes it possible not to increase the number of sections. Since the lines are divided into return and supply, it is possible to implement automatic control of the batteries using a thermostatic valve.

In such a scheme, the diameter of the pipeline will be smaller, and the scheme itself will be simpler. Two-pipe schemes come in the following varieties:

Dead end: the pipeline is divided into branches in which the coolant moves towards each other;

Associated two-pipe system: in it, the return collector acts as a supply, and the coolant flows in one direction, making a ring out of the circuit;

Collector (radial). This scheme is the most expensive - pipes from the collector go separately to each battery in a hidden way - through the floor.

Two-pipe open system design. When laying large-diameter horizontal lines at a slope of 3–4 mm per 1 m, the system can operate by gravity. This scheme does not require a circulation pump; it is completely energy independent. Both one-pipe and two-pipe systems can work without a pump, the main thing is that there is an opportunity for natural circulation.

Two-pipe circuit of a closed system. For an open heating system, you need to install an expansion tank at the highest point, which will communicate with the atmosphere. This is a solution for gravity networks; it is impossible to do this in any other way. If a membrane-type expansion tank is installed on the return line (not far from the boiler), then the system will be closed, operating under excess pressure. This option is more modern and is used in networks with forced coolant circulation.

Advice. If you own a small one, up to 150 sq. m, house, then the usual two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of coolant is perfect for you. The diameters of the main pipeline will not exceed 25 mm, branches - 20 mm, and connections - 15 mm.

How to install heating in a private house

Single pipe heating system

As we said above, with a one-pipe system, one working pipe is used, looped on the heating boiler. Since the last battery in the cycle will heat up the worst, this problem must be solved. There are several ways out.

Go by increasing the sections in the latest radiators, increasing the heat transfer area.

Install adjustable radiators in the rooms. Such batteries have a regulating device - a thermostatic valve (balancing valve, etc.). With their help, the supply of coolant to the first batteries of the cycle can be regulated. As the flow in them decreases, the flow in the remaining radiators increases.

Install a circulation pump that will provide a slight pressure in the system. In this way, a balance of coolant in each battery will be achieved.

Many professionals consider the last option to be the most optimal, but it is not without its drawbacks. The circulation pump will be powered by electricity, thereby increasing the cost of operating the heating system and making it dependent on the supply of electricity.

Horizontal single-pipe system (Leningradka)

This heating system has a fairly simple design with the only feature being the laying of the pipe: in a horizontal system, the pipe is mounted with a slope towards the movement of the coolant. In this case, the batteries themselves are installed at the same level and strictly horizontally.

As a rule, the pipeline in this system is laid inside the floor or at its level. If the pipe is laid using the first method, then its heat and waterproofing is necessary.

If this option is provided for a house with two or more floors, then the hot water control will be provided by a valve mounted at the entrance to the first battery of the first floor. By closing this valve, you can increase the pressure in the riser, which supplies coolant to the upper floors. Thus, it is possible to increase the amount of coolant in the batteries of other floors by increasing the heat transfer into them.

Vertical single pipe system

It cannot be said that such a system will be particularly complex or effective. This heating circuit perfectly copes with its functions without the use of a circulation pump. But when laying such a system, the verticality of the risers must be taken into account. To ensure that the effectiveness of this scheme is not lost, it is necessary to use pipes of a larger diameter than in the case of a horizontal system. At the same time, initial costs will increase. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the exact slope of the upper horizontal pipe through which the coolant enters the risers. If this is not done, the functionality of the entire system will be disrupted.

Also, this system does not have the most aesthetic appearance; it is quite difficult to hide, which means that camouflage work for this scheme will cost more.

Two-pipe heating system

Installing such a heating system in your home will require large costs for materials and installation. Accordingly, the cost of the system will be higher. However, a two-pipe system pays off well, as it allows heat to be supplied efficiently and evenly to all areas of the house. If you choose this option, you will be able to regulate the heat in each battery, for which you need to install shut-off valves on them.

For trouble-free operation of this system, it is necessary to install bleed valves on the upper radiators. This is especially important if natural coolant circulation is implemented.

Also, the efficiency of a two-pipe system depends on the method of connecting the batteries - side, diagonal or bottom. Currently, all of the above methods are used, but the diagonal method with an upper connection is considered more correct. It ensures maximum heat transfer.

How much does it cost to install heating in a private house?

Installing a heating system in a house is not an easy task, since heating is a complex engineering system. Its cost will consist of two parameters:

Cost of selected equipment: boiler, batteries;

Prices for consumables and installation work.

Also, to calculate the cost of the heating system, you need to consider the following:

House type;

Its area;

Windows – how many and what size;

Battery type;

Boiler type.

When calculating the cost of heating, you need to take into account not only the price of the boiler, but also the price of the fuel that the boiler consumes. Thus, electric boilers have one of the lowest prices, but the costs and cost of electricity to operate such a boiler make the electric heating system the most expensive. The opposite situation is with gas boilers - with the highest cost of the boiler itself and its installation, the costs and cost of gas make such a system quite attractive in terms of payback.

Another factor influencing the cost of a heating system is the readiness of the home. If the heating installation is carried out during construction, this greatly simplifies the process and allows you to apply the most effective solutions for installing the heating system. At this stage, the easiest way is to calculate the cost of heating and draw up a heating system project, since you can take into account all the technical nuances of the house, all the requirements for the system - from the boiler room to heated floors (the presence of a boiler room is mandatory when using floor-standing boilers).

At the stage of building a house, it is easy to take into account the possibility of integration with other engineering systems, for example with ventilation. Installation of supply and exhaust ventilation with heating allows you to consume less electricity, since the dependence of the microclimate on air conditioning systems is reduced. Also, developing a heating system project at the stage of building a house allows you to optimally install the necessary equipment, especially hidden ones, which will allow you to avoid spending money on repairing finished premises in the future.

If you calculate the cost of a heating system for a finished house that is already in use, you need to understand that the amount on the calculator may differ from the actual costs. To install the necessary equipment, wall chiselling, drilling holes, etc. may be required. It is not always possible to conceal the installation of pipes or other elements of the heating system. After all the work has been completed, there is a very high probability of also carrying out repairs on the premises. Thus, when calculating the cost of a heating system, it is worth taking into account costs that are not directly related to it.

Approximate prices for home heating design

Approximate prices for installing a heating system when contacting a specialized company

Installation of wall-mounted gas boilers

Installation of floor-standing gas boilers

Installation of heating radiators

Installation of heating pipes

What do you need to remember if you decide to install a heating system in your own home? Regardless of the choice of heating scheme in the house, the quality will be determined not only by the installation performed, but also by the selected pipes and equipment. You should purchase only proven and high-quality materials from reputable suppliers. The SantekhStandart company successfully sells the necessary equipment for installing a heating system in a private home. The materials and equipment offered by the company are approved by the company’s own specialists and have been certified according to the GOST R system.

In the catalog of the SantekhStandard company you will find everything you need to install a heating system in your home: from metal-plastic and PPR pipes of the required diameters to circulation pumps, batteries, fittings and soldering equipment.

By choosing the SantekhStandard company as a supplier of equipment for your home’s heating system, you do not have to worry about the quality and compatibility of the purchased materials.

Saint Petersburg

st. Sofiyskaya, 72