Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house - let there be light! Supply of electricity to a private house: how to connect an input device

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

Wiring in a private house is done before the start of finishing work. The box of the house is expelled, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Determination of the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
• . It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install electricity in the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
• Ground loop device and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining an act.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start by obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380 V network are much tougher: the voltage is higher, there are more chances of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, it is better for you to use 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale, and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to put all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

Determining the total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be in your house, sum up its power. Average capacities can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there is, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the amount found. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are allocated the declared capacity, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is diluted with an electrician for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not the rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out as a separate group.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most and most powerful too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine is also better to "plant" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

Usually two or four lines go to the rooms: in a modern dwelling and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a summer house, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting fixtures, the second - for the street and the third - for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something powerful new, divide the group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). By the number of groups, the switchboard and the number of machines in it are selected: for each group there is a separate machine. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The place of installation of the shield is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines, it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in the boiler room: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield. The tripping (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the input machine is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a counter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - the protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables, not wires. They have at least twice the insulation, so the laying requirements are not so strict, and it’s safer to use them. All internal wiring in a private house must be made with protective earth. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-prong plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is hard, breaks more often, and is more difficult to work with. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used at all in wooden houses inside.

Determining the cross section of the cores

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. They do this depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross section of the core is selected by current or by the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the house electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn consumer groups. Count the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross section of the wires according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. It will compare the found power of all consumers connected to the group (it is easier to find and calculate it). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. On this line, move to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The figure indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, mark the cores of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color they marked). After the diameter is determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the figures found. You have calculated the wiring for your house.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrics in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation there. Houses made from less combustible materials can use any kind of insulation. The main thing is that it be intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know what they are:

• External - when the case sticks out of the wall. They are easier to install: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it from above. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
• Internal. Under the electrical part, a recess is made in the wall, a mounting box is installed and walled up in it. Inside this box is inserted the electrical part of the socket or switch.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

Read how to connect walk-through switches (turn on / off the light from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends include hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - strobes. After laying and fixing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls are then lined with sheet materials - drywall, GVL, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.

When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done in accordance with all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

• wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
• all joins must be made in ;
• horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them the cable goes down to the outlet or to the switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during the repair or modernization of wiring. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get into the cable.

Wire connection methods

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the point of connection of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires ring among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged somewhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate.

Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.

The technology of electrical wiring in wooden houses has its own characteristics. Not only that, to connect to the network, it will be necessary to pull the cable from the nearest substation, but the wiring inside the premises must be carried out in compliance with special safety standards.

Wiring Requirements

Wood is the most popular material used in the construction of private housing. Despite its merits, wood is a fire hazardous and highly flammable material.

Regardless of the material - brick, gas silicate blocks, concrete, timber, when a fire occurs, an open fire spreads to the furniture and interior decoration of the room. First, everything inside the room burns down, and only after that the load-bearing walls, partitions and roofing begin to burn.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in wooden buildings:

• Safety - wiring must be routed in such a way as to minimize the possibility of overheating and ignition of the cable, and to prevent the transmission of open flames to adjacent wooden structures.
• Design - the technical characteristics and performance of the wires and components used must correspond to the calculated peak load in a particular section of the electrical network. To prevent heating, the cable cross-section is selected with a margin of 20–30%.
• Laying method - it is preferable to carry out electrification of wooden buildings in an open way. This allows you to easily and at regular intervals to diagnose the state of the power grid.
• Isolation - the location of the input node (electric panel) must be isolated from the interface with wooden structures. Ideally, if the electrical panel is installed in a room with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
• Conductor - as a conductor, it is better to use a three-core copper cable with insulation from non-combustible materials. Laying the cable in PVC corrugation is strictly prohibited.
• Automation - an automatic switch must be installed for each group in the electrical network. The circuit breaker current rating is selected in accordance with the load on the site. It is highly not recommended to overestimate the current rating, as this will lead to overheating of the conductor.

It is not recommended to carry out independent laying of a power cable and installation of an electrical network without appropriate experience - this should be done by specialists. But every owner of a private house must know the basic rules of electrification. This will allow him to diagnose the existing wiring, and also make it possible to control the quality of work of hired electricians.

Regulations

Rules for the installation of electrical installations is the main document for the design of electrical wiring

General requirements and rules for electrical wiring are described in the following documents:

1. PUE, edition 7 - the main document used in the design of the electrical network. It describes in detail the choice of conductor, switchgear, automation and lighting.
2. SNiP 3.05–06–85 - electrical wiring in old and new houses. Connection methods and rules for entering a power cable into a dwelling.
3. SNiP 31–02 - requirements for the installation of a power supply system in residential buildings. The document complies with the rules and regulations described in the PUE.

The information contained in these sources is described in technical language and may be incomprehensible to an unqualified specialist. When studying independently, we recommend relying on the "Electrical Installation Rules", since this document most clearly articulates the meanings and concepts necessary for wiring in private homes.

Find out what types of sockets and switches are available and how to choose them correctly: l.

Preparation of a power supply project

An example of two electrical network device diagrams in a wooden house

After consideration of the application by the managing body, an agreement and technical conditions necessary for connection to the local electrical network will be prepared. Then you can proceed to the design of the power supply, which is performed in the following sequence:

When drawing up a project, one should be guided by the EMP. According to this document, electrical wiring is laid strictly in a vertical or horizontal direction. The optimal angle of rotation is 90 o .

The socket group, switches and junction boxes should be located in open areas with free access. Usually, switches are mounted 80–150 cm from the floor level, and a socket or socket group - 50–80 cm. The number of sockets varies from 1–6 pieces. The exact amount depends on the size of the room, but not less than one piece per 6m 2.

When designing a cable route, it should be taken into account that the minimum distance from the openings should not be less than 10 cm. If the cable can come into contact with metal elements along the route, then it is removed by 15–30 cm in any convenient direction.

Choice of wire and devices

The cross section of the electrical wiring, taking into account the total power of the electrical network

When arranging private power networks, two types of cables are used: NYM and VVGng. The NYM type cable is a power cable that meets the European standard and is used for laying electrical networks with a rated voltage not exceeding 660 V. VVGng cable is a bare power cable, double vinyl braided, operating in networks with a constant voltage of not more than 1 kW.

The cross section of the cable for laying electrical networks is determined in "mm 2". For designation, the marking is applied to the cable insulation and is indicated by two numbers. The first digit indicates the number of wires inside the single insulation. The second digit is the cross-sectional area of ​​the conductor. For example, when an electrician says that a three-core copper cable is needed one and a half squares, this means - NYM cable 3x1.5 mm.

The easiest way to determine the minimum cross-section of the power cable core for a particular section of the network is a special table. This method is proven, as it is used in the design of electrical networks in apartment buildings. The table for selecting the cross section of the core can be found in the photo above.

As a rule, a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5–4 mm is used for socket groups, and an aluminum cable with a cross section of 1.5–2.5 mm is used for lighting. In the case of wooden houses, it is recommended to use only copper wiring, as this will protect the electrical network from overheating.

Wire of various sections for wiring in a wooden house

According to the PUE, each section of the electrical network is equipped with a residual current device and a circuit breaker designed for the corresponding current indicators. To calculate the current strength, the standard formula is used -I \u003d P / U cosφ, where:

• I - current strength;
• P is the total power of electrical appliances connected to one section of the power grid;
• U - voltage in the mains;
• cosφ is a constant coefficient. In household networks, it is almost always equal to 1.

For example, it is required to determine the current strength for the network section to which household equipment with a total power of 3 kW will be connected. I \u003d 3000 / 220 \u003d 13.64 A. Taking into account a small margin and rounding, it turns out that this section will require an RCD and a diphatomat, designed for a rated current of 16A.

To determine the type of circuit breaker, it is necessary to calculate the minimum short-circuit current strength: I short circuit = 3260 x S / L, where S is the conductor cross-section in mm2, L is the conductor length in m. As a rule, in networks with a mixed load, which will be presented in most private houses, type “C” machines are used.

Sockets are selected taking into account the power of electrical appliances. Usually, these are sockets with grounding, rated for 16 A current. It is worth remembering that if it is planned to use several electrical appliances in a particular room, then it is better to install a socket group for 2-3 products than to use a “tee” in the future.

Selection of input cable and automation

On the left - an electric meter, on the left - an RCD with a lead-in cable

Scheme of the device of a single-phase power supply network

A single-phase electrical network is the most common way to electrify private houses and typical apartments. The rated current voltage in a single-phase network is 220 V with a frequency of 50 Hz.

The structure is powered by a two- or three-core power cable, which is connected from the local substation to the electrical switchboard inside the building.

In the first case, a two-core cable without grounding is used. In the second case, a three-core cable is used with a working "phase" (L), reverse "zero" (N) and protective earth.

You might like the idea of ​​retro electrical wiring. More details about installing the system in a wooden house in our next material:.

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house - step by step instructions

It is optimal if the switchboard is installed in a special room with a concrete partition or wall

The technology for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house will consist of several stages: supplying a power cable to the house, installing a switchboard, laying a cable route, connecting contacts and checking performance.

To carry out the work, you will need to prepare an electric drill with a crown nozzle, a screwdriver, a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver and protective rubberized gloves.

Switchboard installation

Switchboard for a private house for 12-24 modules

The switchboard is a device for entering a power cable and distributing incoming electrical energy. Inside the shield there is electrical equipment responsible for the connection, accounting, safety and correct operation of the power supply system.

Ready-made switchboards from the manufacturer are a plastic, metal or combined box with a door, DIN rail, zero and ground bus. The shield dimensions are selected according to the number of modules used. For wooden houses, a shield for 12–15 modules is enough.

The installation of the shield consists of several stages:

When using a shield for 16–24 modules, as a rule, there are two DIN rails in it. It is better to install an introductory machine, a counter and an RCD on the upper rail in the required quantity.

Circuit breakers will be located on the lower din-rail. This type of distribution of modules will allow faster and more convenient connection. After mounting all the elements, it is recommended to mark the modules according to their group. The shield assembly sequence is shown in the video below.

Related video: switchboard assembly and layout

Cable entry into the room

Laying a power cable to a residential building by air

The input of a power cable into a residential building can be performed in two ways: underground and by air. The first method is more reliable, since an armored cable protected by a corrugated pipe will be used. In this case, the wiring itself will be located under a 30-40 cm layer of earth.

A trench 70–80 cm deep is dug to lay the cable. A 15–20 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the trench and it is well compacted. Further, a protective corrugation is laid on the sand cushion, through which an armored cable is passed. Then the corrugated pipe is covered with a 10–15 cm layer of sand. At the end, the pipe is completely walled up in the ground.

Laying a power cable to a residential building underground

Cable routing through the air is carried out in cases where the distance between the house and the substation is too large. For this, a cable with a carrying cable is used, which is pulled between the supporting and residential buildings. If the distance from the post to the house exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them.

When a power cable is inserted through a load-bearing wall, a sleeve made of non-combustible materials is installed at the interface. It is optimal if the cable is introduced in the immediate vicinity of the location of the switchboard.

Installation of overhead switches and sockets

Removing the button and the face of the socket before installation

Overhead switches and sockets are used for both open and hidden wiring. The technology for installing a switch and a socket is similar, so let's take the process of installing a switch from Schneider Electric as an example.

The installation process consists of the following:

At the end, the operability of the switch is checked and the final assembly is carried out. The installation technology of the surface outlet is similar. As a rule, a three-core cable is used to connect sockets, therefore, when connecting, a yellow-green cable (ground) is present, which is connected to the central terminal.

Connection of wires and contacts

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, the use of "twists" is not allowed. Ideally, if part of the cable from the difavtomat to the point of consumption is made from a single piece of wire.

To do this, before cutting the cable, it is required to mark the wall surface. Next, using a tape measure, you will need to measure the cable route and only then cut the cable with a margin of 20 cm.

Wago terminal blocks for wiring connection

If a cable connection is unavoidable, then it is better to use:

1. Terminal block - divided into products with a tightening screw and clamping plates. The latter are more optimal, since a plate is used to contact the cable and the bus, which does not damage the conductive core.
2. The spring terminal is the simplest and most effective connection method, in which the core is held in contact with the plate by a spring clip. Can be used to connect both aluminum and copper cables.

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, we recommend using terminal blocks from Wago. Products are distinguished by high build quality and have a wide range of products for cables of various sections. To connect, it is enough to strip the cable by 10 mm, lift the clamping levers up and lead the cable into the terminal hole.

Methods for open wiring

Exposed retro wiring using ceramic sockets and insulators

Opening wiring is the best solution for wiring in a wooden house. The open method of laying the cable from the switchboard to the point of consumption has been used for a long time - previously the cable was located on ceramic insulators. Thus, the wiring did not have direct contact with the wooden wall.

Now this technology is called retro-wiring and is used in rooms where the total peak power is quite small and does not exceed 4 kW. In residential buildings with high peak load, this technology has a lot of disadvantages and limitations.

Open wiring in a wooden house without additional insulation

For an open wiring device, it is customary to use:

Some homeowners use a combination approach. For cable laying in straight sections, a steel straight pipe is used, and metal corrugation is used as rotary elements. This approach is not aesthetically pleasing, but it is quite reliable. For safety reasons, all metal pipes and other elements must be connected to the ground loop.

Installing wiring in a private house is a laborious process, but nevertheless, even a novice electrician can do it! If you are determined to do all the calculation work yourself and have all the necessary tools at hand, or just want to control a working electrician, then we will look at the whole process from A to Z. To make the technology understandable even for beginners (dummies, so to speak), we will consider step by step how to do the wiring in the house with your own hands.

The process consists of several main steps:

• choice of laying method (open, hidden);
• creating a schema;
• marking work;
• choice of constituent elements;
• direct wiring;
• obtaining permission to connect to the local power grid.

Using the example of a new house, consider how to independently conduct electrical wiring.

Selecting the type of electrical installation

The first thing to start with is to decide on the method of mounting the line. Today, open and hidden type wiring is used. it is a fastening of all constituent elements over finished walls (routes are laid in special cable channels).

The advantage is:

• the damaged area can be repaired without any problems (no need to cut the wallpaper, destroy the plastered walls, etc.);
• simpler installation and preparatory work (not needed in the house);
• convenient to add new branching points.

The disadvantages of this installation method are one - very often it does not fit into the overall interior of the rooms, since the cable channels do not have a very attractive appearance.

In places for installing junction boxes, switches and sockets, we make round recesses with a puncher with a crown (we select the depth and diameter of the strobe in accordance with the dimensions of the products). Depending on the type of walls, we choose a diamond or pobedit crown (for concrete) or a crown for wood and drywall.

You can see how to make strobes for electrical wiring in the house in the video below:

Step 2 - Attaching Junction Boxes

Boxes and socket boxes are installed in wells (the so-called round strobes). For their installation, it is recommended to use screws with dowels or a layer of asbestos (about 2 mm). After securely fixing the boxes, we move on.

You can clearly see the process of installing the socket box in the following video:

Step 3 - Installing the cable

The gate is cleaned from the remnants of dust, stones and other foreign objects, primed or spilled with water, after which it is necessary to lay the cable in it. For fixing electrical wiring, it is recommended to use plaster or alabaster. Those who do not want to deal with the solution can fix the wire with dowel clamps.

The tacking step is about 40 cm. We talked about the rest in the corresponding article, which we strongly recommend reading!

That's the whole instruction for installing electrical wiring in a private house from scratch. We also recommend that you watch visual video tutorials that describe this event in more detail:

Obtaining permission to connect to the local power grid

First you need to pass acceptance tests (technical inspection of the facility where the electrical installation was carried out). If the result turns out to be positive, you will be issued a “Connection Permission Certificate”, on the basis of which the Electricity Owner must connect your residential facility.

The rules for connecting to the network are described in RF PP 861 of December 27, 2004 and its numerous editions (updated until 2015).

The power supply company is obliged to connect to the power grid for objects with a capacity of up to 15 kW, regardless of whether it has such an opportunity. Connection with a dedicated power of up to 15 kW, and a line length of not more than 500 meters costs 550 rubles. For this money you will receive. After assembling the inlet switchboard, you need to contact the RES and call the inspector to seal it, then the electricians must connect your “box” to electricity - the overhead power line support.

This question is clearly discussed in the video:

So we examined how the wiring in the house should be done with our own hands. We hope that the provided step-by-step instructions were clear and useful, and the video tutorials helped to better understand the entire wiring process!

Also read:

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Before you start wiring, you first need to draw up a diagram. If you know how electrical appliances should be located after the completion of electrical work, then the task becomes noticeably easier. The scheme is used to count the elements for work - you calculate the cross section and length of the wire for a certain route, the number of sockets, various switches / switches, junction boxes, as well as the location of these devices. Electrical wiring in a house or apartment is not complete without the following power units:

• switchboard;
• circuit breakers (used for the safety and security of appliances);
• counters.

An example of a scheme for a private house

This section describes an example for connecting 1-phase and 3-phase power in a private house, which will allow you to figure out how to take on the installation, and what is needed to develop an electrical circuit diagram. Let's start with single phase. The method of power supply for a private house (sometimes apartments) is usually chosen by air. The phase wire goes from the overhead line to the introductory electrical panel, into which the working and zero protective wires are also connected.

The power input looks like this: In 95% of cases, an air “message” is used.

As for meters, today energy supply organizations install them in the introductory electrical panel on the street (a few years ago, metering devices were installed inside a private house). In addition to the counter, a switch is sometimes mounted in the shield.

The cable is laid from the input shield to the internal one. From the electrical panel installed inside, the supply of electricity to the building begins. To add network reliability, professionals recommend dividing power consumers into groups:

• Temporary, basement, garage - households. premises;
• Lighting;
• Power group (the most demanding devices, for example, a boiler);
• Rosette group.

Consumers must be separated in order to connect and install individual protective devices. This is how the scheme for dividing devices into groups looks like:

A mandatory requirement for drawing up a scheme is the availability of a plan for a private house. Knowing the drawing, you can independently draw up a “do-it-yourself” circuit and connect devices, while you do not have to resort to the help of professionals. For example, we took a simple scheme:

With the above material in hand, you can begin to draw up a schematic diagram. This is already more difficult, since it requires knowledge of electricians. If it is not possible to draw up a diagram yourself, then it is better to ask a friend about it or, in extreme cases, hire an electrician.

Features of 3-phase power

If 3-phase power is supplied to your private house, and not 1-phase, then combined and working wiring, as well as three phases, is connected from the air support to the input shield. There are not many differences in the circuit for 3-phase power supply:

Preparatory work

Installation of electricians in an apartment or house must begin with the following operations:

• preparation of walls and ceiling;
• drawing up an electrical, as well as a circuit diagram;
• wall markings.

You need to calculate in advance where there will be a place for entering wires or a power cable. The switchboard is also an important point, as it must be protected from weather conditions. Professionals recommend installing the shield in a warm room, not far from the main building, the height from the ground should be 1.5-1.7 meters (to make it convenient to reach it).

The next step is to draw up a wiring and electrical diagram, according to which you will install lamps, switches / switches, sockets and other electrical appliances with your own hands. Ready for equipment layouts? Great, you can take on the marking of the wire routes leading to this electrical equipment.

Tools for the job

Eam will need the following tools:

• hammer;
• ordinary screwdrivers;
• indicator screwdriver;
• wall chaser;
• perforator;
• tester;
• pliers.

In addition to the above tools, we will need materials: electrical tape, tags for marking wiring, sockets, wires with different sections, terminal blocks. You need to seriously approach the choice of an electrical panel, since the reliability of the future electrical network in a private house or apartment depends on it.

Installation must be carried out taking into account the requirements for the location of the devices. We are talking about a bathroom, a bath or even a sauna - in them the moisture indicator is too high. Switches/switches and sockets should be located on the outside - in front of these rooms.

Installation of electrical wiring of closed and open type

Let's say all the preparatory work has already been completed, so we can start wiring - we already have a circuit diagram and a connection plan on hand. It is recommended to connect the network in a private house or apartment to take a copper wire, the cross section of which should be in the range of 1.5-2.5 mm. If you need to connect powerful consumers of electricity, then you should take the wiring and a larger diameter. Despite the fact that such wires will be more expensive, this will increase the reliability and resistance of the network.

There are two types of installation - hidden and open. Of course, we will analyze each of the methods. Choosing an open or hidden option is based on the characteristics of the materials from which the walls in your home are made. Other factors that you will learn about after studying these methods also influence the choice. You can do both wiring methods yourself.

Concealed wiring

It is worth choosing hidden wiring if yours is built from:

• monolithic stones;
• natural or artificial stones;
• bricks.

In such houses, it is necessary to install wiring through strobes (special channels for closed-type wiring). They are cut in advance along the route for connecting the future electrical network, and then they are covered with plaster. In places where control elements, switches / switches will then be located, it is necessary to prepare recesses 60-70 millimeters deep. The exact figure is calculated depending on the dimensions of the boxes. They are mounted with their own hands in recesses. Fixation can be done with a solution.
The photo shows the process of preparing channels for wires. The work should be done with a power tool, as this will significantly save your time.

We analyze hidden wiring primarily due to the fact that it is more inconvenient than open options and has disadvantages. The main disadvantage is the need to hammer the walls with your own hands if you need to replace or repair the wiring. Aesthetic appearance is one of the main advantages of the closed method, because the electrical wiring is hidden under a layer of putty. If you properly operate electrical appliances, then you will not have to destroy the walls.

When installing hidden wiring, it is necessary to make wire connections only in special boxes - branching and junction boxes. Switches and sockets are mounted in fixed marking places. It is important for you to ensure that the boxes are accessible after the wiring is completed. In the future, you will need to maintain and control connections.

Open variant

In two cases, open wiring must be carried out in the house:

• Finishing work has already been carried out in the room, and the owners have no desire to destroy the coating to install the wiring.
• In a wooden private house. There are no other options for such buildings - the wiring must be open and well insulated to reduce the risk of fire to a minimum.

As insulation, cable channels, asbestos gasket, self-extinguishing plastic, corrugated sleeve or plastic skirting boards are used. The task of these elements is to exclude the contact of wires with a wooden coating. Today it is more profitable and more convenient to use an electric box or a corrugated hose. Boxes fit into the design of a private house, so they are placed in living rooms. As for corrugated sleeves, they have a less aesthetic appearance - they are placed in utility rooms.

The sleeve is attached to the ceiling or wall with the help of special elements - usually these are plastic holders. They are also fastened with dowels, screws or self-tapping screws. Choosing the right fasteners is necessary depending on the material from which the coating is made. The box consists of two parts that fasten the lock. The lower part is attached to the ceiling or wall, then a wire is placed in it, from above it is closed by the upper part. The lock serves as a latching element. The upper part can be removed with a few movements if necessary, so you can always check or repair the wiring.

In places where open-type wiring is branched, branching connection boxes must be installed. As for switches and sockets, their installation is carried out on special "sockets", which are made of plastic or dry wood.

Conclusion

To work with electricity, you need to know the safety precautions and elementary rules for the operation of electrical equipment. If you don’t have this knowledge, then it’s better not to take risks - today you can hire professionals quite inexpensively, while you save your devices and, most importantly, your health. If you are familiar with electrical engineering, then you can start connecting the electrical wiring in your home.

Replacing electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands, as a rule, is timed to coincide with a major overhaul. And it is perhaps the most difficult part of it. Accordingly, the price. In a regional city in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, a professional wiring replacement costs about 1000 rubles. per 1 sq.m of the total area of ​​housing. You only need to take on the independent replacement of wiring if repairs are necessary, and you are short of money.

Copper, earth and doses

Replacing electrical wiring in a residential area rests on three pillars:

1. Replacing aluminum wires with copper ones.
2. Switching from a TN-C power supply circuit (solidly grounded neutral) to TN-C-S (with protective earthing of consumers).
3. Transition from wiring by branching to connecting groups with separate branches.

Let's explain in order:

Aluminum wiring due to its low cost and environmental friendliness (the mining and smelting of copper were then extremely harmful industries) became widespread in the world in the 30s - 60s. However, over time it turned out that aluminum is unsuitable for electrical wires:

• Within 20 years, changes occur in the circuits under current in the metal, the essence of which is still not completely clear; First of all, aluminum becomes very brittle, and it is literally impossible to breathe on the wiring from it.
• At the slightest ingress of moisture, aluminum is subject to electrocorrosion, which spreads under the shell; a whole-looking wire turns out to be thinned to a hair; hence - sudden failures, the most emergency.

Aluminum is a soft metal. It is squeezed out from under the screws of the terminals, the twists are weakened, and the soldering of aluminum is difficult, expensive and is one of the hazardous industries. Therefore, aluminum contacts are unreliable.

Power transmission line wires have a service life of less than 20 years, and aluminum defects do not affect there. But aluminum is now prohibited in residential wiring.

The Soviet TN-C power supply scheme was forced to be used, due to the need for mass electrification with an acute shortage of non-ferrous metals and a large length of communications in a vast country. Since 1997, the Russian Federation has adopted the TN-C-S power supply system, which ensures the safety of consumers, regardless of the state of the power grid. A lot of ungrounded high-rise buildings remained from the USSR, but since there is a problem, it needs to be solved; not "from above", but on their own.

The branching wiring scheme was also used involuntarily, and for the same reasons as TN-C. At the same time, branches to groups were connected to more powerful wires of the apartment input along their length. Branches were made in junction boxes - electric dispensers (doses); the main apartment dose is located next to the counter.

Each branch - stripped insulation and twisting or terminals: unreliable and sensitive to jamming. Now it has not yet been legalized (but things are moving towards that), but branch wiring is common: from the input to each group of connections there is a separate single piece of cable in double or triple insulation. No twists and terminals, moisture is not afraid.

Stages of work

Wiring costs can be cut in half or more. The fact is that the replacement of electrical wiring is carried out in five stages:

1. Development of a power supply scheme for an apartment (house).
2. Drawing up a wiring plan, its approval and registration together with the power supply scheme.
3. Repair facility.
4. Electrical wiring.
5. Installation of mechanisms (switches, automatic machines), connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical appliances (lighting devices, floor heating, washing machine, air conditioner, electric oven, etc.).

Prior to the start of work on the replacement of electrical wiring, protective grounding or protective grounding should be provided, if possible. However, his device is .

Wiring by points is carried out at the last stage during the installation of mechanisms, automation, connection points and electrical appliances.

At each stage of the replacement of electrical wiring, you can save. In general, you can reduce costs by half or more - up to 650-450 rubles / square, depending on what you can do on your own and what you have to entrust to specialists.

Power supply scheme

Take a look at the picture in the section. For now, just take a look. Let's give some explanations. First: kWA - electricity meter; RCD is a residual current device. Secondly, the power supply circuit is single-line.

Pay attention to the two slashes that cross out the wire designation. This means that in real life there are two wires - phase L and zero N (neutral), laid together. The PE protective wire is not crossed out, which means it comes separately. If the input is three-phase, then there will be three dashes on the designations of its wires. Systems with an isolated neutral, which are not used in everyday life, do not touch.

Now look at the drawing carefully. This is a single-line power supply scheme for a luxury apartment of 200 sq. m. If you understand everything in it in general, you will be able to draw your own power supply scheme, even if you do not have an electrical engineering education and you do not know how to draw.

In the worst case, you will end up with a clumsy sketch. But according to him, an undergraduate student looking for a part-time job or a retired electrician will be able to draw the correct scheme in half an evening and inexpensively. And if you entrust the scheme to a practicing specialist with a decent salary already, then it will cost a pretty penny. The hassle will not decrease for you: after all, he needs the initial data.

We think over the power supply

Proper wiring in the house depends primarily on the power consumption. In cottage settlements, they give a consumption limit of 10-20 kW for housing, but in a city apartment this is unrealistic: either the machine in the entrance will always knock out, or, even worse, the house wiring will burn. And in old houses, where most often the replacement of wiring is required, the "Khrushchev" limit of 1.3 kW is laid down; at the limit - 2 kW.

However, no one turns everything on at once. Even in summer, when the air conditioners are on, they turn on out of time. Here, chance works for the consumer: with an average power consumption of 4.3 kW, house wiring is holding up. This limit is the basis for the calculation. True, if you start washing or ironing in the summer, you will have to turn off the air conditioner with the boiler, otherwise the main machine will cut down the entire apartment. But you will have to come to terms with this.

Without going into the details of the calculation, we will immediately give data for an average city apartment of 40-100 square meters. m of total area:

• The main machine - from 25 to 32 A, depending on the area. For the meticulous: the current safety factor is 1.3-1.5. It is impossible to give 2 in apartment buildings: the general wiring is “stunted”.
• Apartment RCD - 50 A 30 μA unbalance.
• Kitchen - two wiring branches of 4 square meters. mm; on each - an automatic machine for 25 A and an RCD of 30 A 30 μA. Washing the bathroom - from the kitchen; not indicated on the diagram, see below.
• Air conditioning - a branch of 2.5 sq. mm; automatic - 16 A, RCD - 20 A 30 μA.
• Socket circuits and lighting circuits - one and the other in each room, except for the bathroom and the bathroom; in them - only lighting; the bathroom is yet to be discussed. The cross section of the prodods is 2.5 sq. mm; automatic shutdown is not needed, the general apartment is enough.

That's all the source code for a single-line power supply circuit for an apartment. You can draw.

Figure: graphic diagrams for “visibility”:

We draw a diagram

As a basis, you can take the diagram given. Its top, from the exit from the counter, remains unchanged, you only need to change the numerical data. The brand of RCD does not matter: if you end up putting others instead of ASTRO-RCD, this does not violate anything.

In case of doubt regarding the designations, see the Appendix to the EMP (Consumer Electrical Installation Rules) or GOST 2.755-87(CT SEV 5720-86). Follow only the GOST number: for some reason, a lot of links to GOST 2.721-74 and even GOST 7624-55 pop up in the search, from which now there is no more sense than from the Moral Code of the builder of communism, at one time personally edited by a dear comrade and unforgettable general secretary Leonid Ilyich.

When drawing a diagram, observe the dimensions of the symbols of the elements: their scaling is not allowed. If, for example, an electric capacitor is indicated by two parallel lines 0.5 mm thick and 10 mm long at a distance of 2 mm from one another, then so be it, even if it is alone on a sheet of drawing paper A0.

Preparing a plan

Now consider the figure that accompanies this section. This is already a PLAN of electrical wiring: this is what the circuit turns into when you need to do it by hand. Let's explain the plan:

1. At least two branches should go to each room from the meter - to lighting circuits and sockets.
2. Since there is one bathroom in an ordinary apartment, DSU (additional potential equalization system) is not needed. Its branch is indicated by a dotted line in the diagram.
3. In the bathroom, mark only the waterproof ceiling lamp and the boiler, if it is installed there. The bathroom is a special and complex case, we will talk about it later.
4. Designate only branches to connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical installations. Stationary installations are those that are rigidly fixed to the supporting structures, or that are not powered through a detachable connection. For example: a boiler and a warm floor are stationary, but a washing machine, a dishwasher and an electric oven are not. The fact that they are connected to other communications does not concern electricians and does not care.
5. Do not clutter up the circuit with small things like LED lighting for the ceiling, an extension to the balcony, etc. Inspectors are only annoyed by such things, and a quite decent plan can be "hacked to death."
6. In no case do not show the branches to the balcony or loggia! For a city apartment, this is a gross violation of the PUE. These rooms must be powered from sockets in other rooms.

Now let's show you how to simplify the preparation of the plan:

• Take a plan of your apartment in DEZ or BTI.
• Scan; if large - in pieces.
• In Photoshop, glue the pieces, and remove the old designations of wiring, stationary electrical appliances and connection points.
• Apply new ones in accordance with the diagram and according to the model of the given wiring plan. It is more convenient to do this not in Photoshop, but in CorelDraw or another vector graphics editor by importing the original raster file and then exporting the finished plan back to the raster. Don't forget to save the vector template! Plans made by amateurs are returned for revision with comments in almost 100% of cases.
• In Photoshop, divide a large image at the desired scale into parts the size of your printer's printable area, print and glue into a large sheet so that the lines match. If they move apart a little, you can draw by hand.

Notes:

1. If the bathroom is located far from the kitchen (as, for example, in Czech apartments), then the group of sockets provided for it, described below in the section on the kitchen, should be placed in the bathroom adjacent to the bathroom.
2. Groups of outlets in adjacent rooms should be placed exactly one against the other through the wall. In this case, by drilling through the wall, both groups can be powered with one branch, saving cable and pipe.
3. In “tram” apartments (enfilade layout) in the room farthest from the meter, groups of outlets, but no more than two, are permissible (in practice, not according to the PUE) to be powered in series, one from the other. In this case, if the nearest group is powered through the wall from the living room, another half a branch is saved.
4. Sconces and other local lights are also, in practice, permissible to be powered from sockets or in series within the room, if there is also a ceiling lamp in it.
5. Ceiling lights must be powered by each separate branch. Powering them through each other or from sockets is unacceptable: general lighting circuits are considered vital.
6. The rows are counted and marked on the plan as a chandelier. The branch for them is brought to the center of the ceiling, and the wiring during installation is done as safer and more convenient.

The finished power supply scheme and the wiring plan in the apartment must be registered and approved by the energy service. The verification and registration procedure is free of charge.

Important: the wiring plan should be given the utmost attention. Optimally, a well-planned plan saves costs by half or more compared to a hacky one.

Room electrical equipment

To draw up a power plan with skill, you first need to decide how many and what connection points and stationary consumers will be in the house. Of course, you are the master in your house, and it is impossible to develop a single method for drawing up a plan for any planning options. But the following guidelines may be helpful to you.

Bathroom

Bathroom electrical equipment is a tough nut to crack. On the one hand, only high humidity makes the bathroom especially dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock. Plus, a splattered floor and a naked, steamed man in hot water. The resistance of his body falls more than that of a completely drunk: the circuit current through the body can exceed 5 A (!), And this is between an unconditionally fatal blow and charring. The damaging effect of the electric current depends on the time of exposure, and with such a force, the operating time of the RCD is by no means enough to definitely prevent trouble.

On the other hand, there are powerful electrical installations: a washing machine, a boiler, with a large intrinsic leakage current, operating at elevated temperatures and humidity. Under such conditions, exposed live contacts, albeit under the outlet cover, will be a source of danger of electric shock.

PUEs allow the installation of sockets in the bathroom through an isolating transformer or RCD, but this solution is even more forced than the TN-C system at one time. The RCD has already been mentioned, and as for the isolation transformer, this item was simply copied from the section on industrial electrical equipment for lack of a better one.

Installation of an isolating transformer is a technically rather complicated task and the subject of a separate description. Recommendations like - to shove the RTR under the false ceiling in the bathroom - the fruit, if not of ignorance, then the latent desire for a perverted electrosuicide. According to the letter PTB and PUE, in the bathroom there can only be a ceiling lamp in a waterproof design. But in the spirit and essence of the same PTB and PUE, the power supply to the bathroom can be organized as follows:

• Replace the boiler and fan power cords with long ones so that they last through a hole in the wall to sockets in the kitchen or in the room adjacent to the bathroom. The boiler is not supplied with a regular cord, and the loss of a guarantee for an inexpensive fan is not a big problem, especially since almost 100% of the guaranteed return of fans is reduced to non-warranty cases. Of course - the cords are three-core, with a protective conductor.
• Purchase an extension cord without a cord, but with grounding contacts (euro), for three sockets, with figured holes in the back for hanging on the wall, and supply it with a three-core cord as well.
• Lead all three cords through a hole in the wall in the corner above the plinth into the kitchen, or an adjacent room, supply with euro plugs, and put in a PVC box: it will not catch your eye in the corner and below.
• The boiler plug is plugged into the outlet “permanently” - nowhere in any rules is there a time limit for plugging the plug into the outlet. Also, the fan plug, if it is “intelligent” and is triggered by temperature and humidity.
• The extension cord is hung in the bathroom on self-tapping screws in dowels.
• The washing machine is connected to the extension cord permanently. In the remaining two sockets, you can turn on the light frame of the mirror and the hair dryer.
• The extension plug plugs into an outlet in an adjacent room as needed.

Thus, in the bathroom there will be no exposed ends under voltage all the time, and if elementary precautions are observed, the danger of electric shock will be reduced to zero. And according to the PUE and PTB, an extension cord, even with a cord in a box and hung on the wall, is just an extension cord, not a socket.

Toilet

In the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, only one lighting branch for the ceiling lamp will go. Toilet and bathroom lamps can be powered in series on one branch: electricians do not find fault.

Kitchen

For the kitchen, therefore, you will need two branches of wiring: for the bathroom and for your own needs. If the bathroom is separated from the kitchen, then the branch for the bathroom will go to the room adjacent to it, but we will describe it here.

The wire cross section is 4 sq. mm and the protective automatics for both branches are the same and are described above. But the connection points are different: for your own branch of the kitchen, you need not one, as for the bathroom, but two triple sockets. A dishwasher, an electric oven, a food processor and spotlights will be permanently included in them. Powering the halogens on the underside of the hanging cabinet with a separate branch, as is sometimes recommended, is uneconomical and incorrect according to the PUE.

One of the remaining points will go under the kitchen fan, and the extension cord, suspended, like in a bathroom, on a wall or on a closet, is constantly turned on. It can include a toaster, a vacuum cleaner when cleaning, etc. The refrigerator is plugged into an additional group socket on the opposite wall.

It is desirable to place the sockets of the bathroom and the main group behind the lower kitchen cabinet close to the countertop, but away from the sink. If the bottom cabinet has a back wall, cut an opening in it. For the passage of cords, cut off the back corners of the tabletops - and it is not visible, and the cords pass freely.

The lighting branch to the kitchen is the same as everywhere else.

Hallway and corridor

Two branches are needed here: for an outlet and for light. If the corridor is long, and two lighting points are needed in it, then the one closest to the outlet is made in the form of a sconce and powered from it. And the far point will already be a ceiling lamp, powered by its branch.

Children's

The PUE requires for children's institutions the location of sockets and switches at a height of at least 180 cm from the floor. But this applies only to institutions, and the child will grow up, and the room will remain with him.

If a beloved child from a tender age shows an increased interest in technology, the socket in the nursery must be supplied with a protective disk. From a socket with a key-locked lid, a petty personality can puff up and suppress inclinations in itself, which, perhaps, will become the key to success in life in the future.

living rooms

Without going into the subtleties of the topology, let's say right away: to power the ceiling lights and two groups of sockets in living rooms, 2N + 1 branches are enough, where N is the number of rooms. Let's explain on the example of a three-room apartment:

1. Living room - 1 branch of the main outlet group, 1 - additional, 1 - lighting.
2. Bedroom - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. An additional group is powered through the wall from an additional group in the living room.
3. Children's - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. The additional group is powered through the wall from the additional bedroom group.
4. From the bedroom or nursery, depending on the layout, an additional kitchen group is fed through the wall.

In total, a 2-3 room apartment will need 12-15 branches, including air conditioning. The branch for the air conditioner should end in a socket, although it is a stationary device. For two reasons: for safety and ease of maintenance, and because the split is equipped with a regular molded cord, cutting off which, we lose the warranty.

How high will the sockets be?

The optimal height of the sockets is 25-35 cm from the floor. It is quite convenient to reach for them, they do not catch the eye, they do not interfere with furniture. The exception is the air conditioner outlet. It is placed higher so that its cord reaches out and does not hang out in plain sight. The excess cord can be rolled into a coil and pushed onto the wall unit body from above; the height of the placement of sockets is nowhere and is not regulated in any way.

Do not try to "wire out" beyond measure - this will only reduce the reliability of the wiring. Two groups, one double each, is sufficient. In extreme cases, a triple socket is placed in one seat, but this cannot be built-in.

Tools and materials

You will need the following tool to replace the wiring:

• Hammer drill with a drill for concrete 16-20 mm, a core drill 90-100 mm, a chisel for concrete 25-30 mm and a set of drills, also for concrete.
• Bulgarian with a circle on the stone.
• Soldering iron for 40-60 watts.
• Phase indicator.
• Tester multimeter.
• Pliers, screwdrivers and side cutters with insulated handles.
• Flashlight.
• Mounting knife.
• Construction level and a cord for beating the route of strobes.
• Spatula for alabaster putty.
• Portable electric lamp.

Materials should be discussed separately.

Terminal blocks

The described method of replacing electrical wiring eliminates its twisting and soldering along the length, and the wiring is absolutely resistant to jamming. All connections will be made in the input board (VSH) at the terminal blocks and at the end points. Terminal blocks are sold in sections of 10 contacts (5 pairs). You will need 3-4 sections; it is better to take three at once, and it is never too late to buy.

When buying, pay attention to the case material - polyethylene is bad, any other will do. And most importantly, two wires with a diameter of 2.5 mm should enter the holes for the wires. It is better to immediately take terminal blocks with rectangular holes, in which the wires are clamped not directly with a screw, but with a special plate.

Socket boxes

Mounting boxes for sockets and switches (sockets) can be any, but they must have protrusions on the outside to keep them in alabaster.

Cable brand

The "cool" and expensive NYM cable is not so cool at all: according to the manufacturer's specifications, it cannot be laid in wet concrete (and where is the guarantee that the walls will always be dry?) And on the street. Therefore, the choice is domestic cables VVG or PUNP. The first is more expensive, but its isolation is more reliable. But there are no complaints about the apartment wiring laid by PUNP.

All these cables are with solid wires, and this is one of the ways to save money when replacing wiring: stranded ones are much more expensive, and unreliable in the wall. If the wiring will be done by employees, then they will remember you to themselves: the cables are hard, especially PUNP. But it does not pull your pocket. And if you are not touchy and not devoid of a sense of humor, then you can listen: good electricians swear masterfully, no worse than aircraft mechanics.

Video: a little about the types of cable

Old pipe or new corrugation?

It is better to tear out old cable pipes together with wires without any pity: the pipe gaps are not designed for double-insulated cable, they are often clogged, the folds are flattened and wrinkled. It is better to hand them over and the old wires after replacing them with scrap metal: at current prices for recycled metal, this will partially or completely pay for the cost of a corrugated hose for cables.

It is better to take a metal corrugation: in the event of an accident, PVC, decomposing in a wall without air access, will release toxic gases. And by grounding the metal corrugations, you will also get shielded wiring, which has a lot of advantages and not a single drawback.

opening shield

The VSC will be located at the site of the old dose. It must be taken in a suitable size: it will have to fit 4 machines, 4 RCDs, 4 terminal blocks and all the ends of the wires. The ends of all corrugated hoses will have to enter the mounting openings of the VSC.

From other materials, you will need cotton tape (cloth), a little conductive paste and alabaster.

Let's start replacing

Repair temporary hut

First of all, you need to provide power to the tool for the duration of the repair. To do this, we attach a double or triple socket and a 16 A machine with a piece of cable 4 sq. Mm in advance on a plank or piece of durable plastic. We also stock up on a long one, so that it is enough for all rooms, an extension cord.

Then we de-energize the apartment by unscrewing the plugs or turning off the apartment machine, we manually grind the dose near the meter, remove it and bring the wires from the meter out. We connect a temporary hut to them on a tight twist (twisting for the time of repair is permissible), carefully isolate the joints, and attach the temporary hut to the wall. We supply the apartment and get to work.

Note: for this work, it is better to hire a DEZ electrician, or work extremely carefully - do not touch the wires with parts of the body and clothing, hold the tool only by insulated parts not lower than the restrictive ledge. And it is highly desirable to first familiarize yourself with the PTB and PUE. Remember: voltage can appear on a de-energized wire at any time! Those electricians who could not or did not want to understand this are no longer with us.

Shtroblenie and socket boxes

Strobes must be straight, horizontal or vertical. Inclined and crooked strobes lead to accidents and injuries. Horizontal strobes lead half a meter under the ceiling.

You need to ditch and drill the walls from a goat or from a stepladder with side stops, which outdoor advertisers use. An ordinary ladder from the side force can tip over, and you will crash down with a heavy, rapidly rotating tool in your hands.

The boundaries of the strobe are first carried out with a grinder to a depth in the diameter of the corrugation and to the width of the perforator bit, then a groove is knocked out with a chisel. Inside the corners, a grinder makes an oblique cut, and a hole is knocked out with a chisel so that the corrugation bend is smooth.

Holes for socket boxes in brick walls are chosen with a crown; in concrete - with a chisel. The crown, hitting the armature, immediately crumbles all over, but is not cheap. The notch under the VSC at the counter is also knocked out with a chisel.

Note: do not choose a double gate for switches. It is much easier to buy a corrugation, which will include two cables.

Gating is a very noisy, dusty and dirty job. Therefore, its time must be agreed with the neighbors. Best of all - in the first half of a weekday, when adults are at work, and mothers with small children are walking.

Wiring

We measure the necessary pieces of cable and corrugation. We tighten the cable into the corrugation on the floor. Then we put socket boxes in the holes on the alabaster pillow. Then we lay the corrugation to the cable in the strobes; we put the ends of the wires into the sockets. Finally, we smear the socket boxes with alabaster to the level of the wall, and we smear the strobes with corrugated pieces in about half a meter.

Note: if the switches are single-pole, then the ends of the zero (blue wire) are immediately twisted, soldered and insulated with three layers of electrical tape with the lower layer entering the wire by 15-20 mm and overlapping the layers by 50%.

At the end of the laying of the wires, we start the lead-in ends of the corrugations in the VSC, lubricate it with conductive paste, grab it with a tin clamp on the screw, and connect the screw with a cut of the PE wire to the ground terminal of the VSC. We put the VSC in place, mark the mounting holes, drill them, drive in the dowels.

We de-energize the apartment, turn off the temporary hut. On weight, we introduce wires from the meter and apartment PE into the VSC; we attach PE to the VSC body. We put the VSC in place, fasten it. We carefully isolate the wires from the meter, put them in the VSC housing. It's time to plaster; the apartment is empty.

About wire colors

Zero (neutral, N) is always indicated blue or blue color, protective conductor PE – yellow with longitudinal green stripe. Phase wires can be white, red , black, brown. Only single-color wires can be connected to each other. Phase-to-zero transition, phase-to-phase transition and switching on of the circuit breaker in the zero gap are not allowed.

Stucco sideshow

Now it's time for plasterers, painters and wallpaper pasteurists. Or yours, in a new incarnation. But first you need to fill the sockets with foam rubber, paper or rags flush with the wall, and close the VSC with a piece of plastic film, tucking it under the edges of its frame. We also close the meter with a film, but be careful not to break the seal - then you won’t get into trouble with the energy service. If the seal is still damaged, you must immediately inform the power engineers.

Completion

After plastering, painting and wallpaper work, the sockets and the VSC will be worn and sealed, but it will be easy to feel for them and cut the wallpaper along the contour. Having cleaned the remnants of plaster from the sockets, switches, lamps,.

Note: in sockets, it is customary to connect wires so that zero is closer to the window.

Then, on the terminal blocks in the VSC, we assemble the power supply circuit, but we do not connect the input from the meter yet. EACH BRANCH SHOULD BE CHECKED WITH A TESTER FOR A SHORT CIRCUIT BEFORE INTRODUCTION TO THE TERMINAL! Now for a short time we power the apartment, we find the phase and zero coming from the meter with the indicator.

We remove the power, we separate the phase and zero with segments of wire of the corresponding colors along the terminal blocks. ONCE AGAIN WE CHECK FOR A short circuit with the machines turned on, turn off the main machine, power the apartment, turn on the main machine. Didn't "bang"? We check the light, the voltage in the sockets and continue the repair.

Is it possible to do without papers?

As you can see, a good share of the work on replacing electrical wiring falls on paperwork. But any handy man experiences not always justified, but persistent disgust for paperwork. So is it possible to do without papers?

No you can not. Electricians have a trained eye. The very first control of the meter readings will be reported to your own, and then wait for the visit of the inspector. Its result is a large fine and the legalization of work in fact, which is no cheaper.

Replacing wiring in a wooden house

Wiring in a wooden house is a separate issue. It can only be noted that the recommendations to lay a corrugated cable directly along the walls are completely untenable: open wiring has long been banned all over the world.

What can you advise if the house is old and there are no cable channels? Cover the cable hoses with wooden boxes. Whether it will be a decorative imitation of beams and ribs, or a simple plank in the corner - it's up to you, but it will pass with a certain creak for power engineers.