I will not hide, the most popular size of a log cabin for a bath is 6*6 (6m*6m). But here, so to speak, the “dog” is buried, about which the cutters do not like to spread, and the customer (and this is you) gets what happened.

Consider the example of a 6 * 6 bathhouse log house, with log diameters of 230-250 mm at the top (my opinion is the most optimal section for a bathhouse).

Not a big retreat. The fact is that on plots in the forest, sawlogs are harvested 6 meters long (or a multiple of 6 meters - 12 meters).

Second retreat. The majority of woodcutters are not engaged in logging, they work with purchased sawlogs, and therefore if the dimensions of the log house are not standard, then the process of buying non-standard logs is not fast and expensive (in spring, summer and autumn it is simply not real).

And so let's get started. You come to the cutter (call or order from the site) and indicate your need - “you need a log house of a bathhouse measuring 6 * 6” - and they answer you, indicate the terms and cost.

But the trouble is, what dimensions do you mean when talking about a log house with dimensions of 6 * 6? The internal space of the bath 6 * 6? Or the size of the outer walls? Or in general on the central axes?

Choppers by default are guided by a log length of 6 meters!

If you order 6 * 6 with a cabin in the "LAPU", then everything is clear here, 6 * 6 will turn out along the outer walls (subtract the thickness of the walls and get an internal space measuring 5.5 * 5.5). For someone, this information will be a revelation.

Now consider the dimensions of the bath 6 * 6 when cutting into the "RUSSIAN CUP". Indeed, many do not like log cabins in the "paw", and it does not look so colorful and something needs to be done with the corners, and it is imperative to insulate and close both inside and out for aesthetic beauty. But, in this case, it must be taken into account that, when cutting into the “Russian bowl”, “remnants” of logs will stick out from the edge of the outer wall (exactly the same color, beauty and aesthetics of the log house), about 25-30 cm. in this case, the size along the outer walls will be 5.5 * 5.5, and the internal space 5 * 5. It's clear?

But many people don’t even think about it when ordering a log house, I have seen this more than once or twice: A private trader orders a 6 * 6 log house into the “Russian bowl”, and while the log house is being made, the customer manages to make a strip foundation, as a rule 15-20 cm wide, 6 * 6 in external dimensions (after all, I ordered a 6 * 6 bath), but when installing it on a new foundation, it turns out that two walls by 0.5 meters do not stand on the foundation, if the five-wall is then the third the wall too, and the stove will not fall into place (the dimensions of the bath have changed!). Consequences on the face - plus 50% of the foundation for money (at best).

I hope you Customers now have an idea about the dimensions of the log house and the internal space of the log house.

About the cost of a log house. You understand, the cost of a log house varies from the size.

What else affects the cost of a log house (briefly): the height of the log house, the debarking of the log house (they simply cleaned the bark or processed the logs to white with a jointer), the complete set of the log house (whether or not there are cut logs on the floor and cut beams on the ceiling, in addition to convenience, structural rigidity is added), if not the entire frame is made of Siberian larch, then at least the lower (at least one) crown should be made of larch, the diameters of the logs.

Based on the results of the above, I give advice: initially decide in size WHAT kind of log house do you want. Then popularly and clearly explain to the cutter what exactly you want! Tell him what dimensions are important and necessary for you - internal, external (along the wall or the rest) or generally in the centers, be sure to indicate the height of the log house and the diameters of the logs. Find out what type of wood and what equipment the log cabins made by him have. Only when you have mutual understanding will you get what you want, and not what happened.

I hope that the above information will help the novice developer, and will be useful for customers of any log cabins.

Of course, not everyone can (for various reasons) make a hand-cut log house 6 * 6 along the central axes or along the outer wall into a “Russian bowl” - we can.

/ How to choose the diameter of a log for a bath?

How to choose the diameter of a log for a bath?

A real Russian banya was built from wood, which has not lost its relevance in modern conditions. High environmental friendliness, healthy indoor climate, excellent appearance are the main advantages of such projects. In order for the bath to warm up well and retain heat for a long time, be comfortable, functional and inexpensive, it is necessary to carefully consider the choice of building materials, especially the size and diameter of the logs.

Factors affecting the choice of the diameter of logs for a bath

The production of a log cabin for a bath involves cutting a groove in each log. If you make it too deep, the material consumption and the number of crowns will increase. With shallow grooves, there is a risk of a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics. Therefore, when choosing wood and calculating the depth of cut, the following criteria are taken into account:

• The temperature in the region of installation of the structure in winter time. Depending on the place of installation, in the cold season, the temperature varies from -10 to -45 degrees, so the diameter of the log can be from 180 to 360 mm. The most popular is wood with a cross section of 200 to 250 mm.
• When using the bath only in summer time, spring and autumn, the thickness of the logs can be reduced. To heat and maintain the optimum temperature, a thickness of 180 mm is enough.
• The dimensions of the building also affect the choice of material. The larger the planned bath, if available attic floor rest rooms, terraces, the diameter of the material increases.
• Humidity building material also affects the choice. For logs of natural drying, harvested in summer, shrinkage can be up to 150 mm. Baths made of rounded logs will decrease in height by no more than 30 mm. Accordingly, the thickness of the wood is also calculated.

When harvesting wood and sawing a groove, certain rules also apply. The width of the groove varies from 60 to 70% of the diameter of the building material. The rise of each crown is performed by 75% of the diameter, respectively, the depth of the groove should be 25%.

Requirements for wood for the construction of baths

In order to get a log cabin for a bath best quality, winter wood is purchased, with moisture indicators at the level of 10-12%. good option will be the use of rounded material that does not shrink. When calculating the diameter, it is desirable to take into account the requirements normative documents. Determining the cross section of logs under various operating conditions:

• For year-round use, the thickness of the forest varies from 240 to 360 mm when installed in regions with a temperate and cold climate.
• The construction and operation of baths with winter temperatures below -30 degrees will be possible when using logs of 250 mm or more.
• Installation of a small building used in warm time year, made of material section 180-240 mm.

The use of these standards allows you to get a high-quality design and not overpay for the material. If desired, the dimensions of the logs can be increased, achieving an attractive appearance and design. But it is not recommended to build a bath from a forest whose thickness is less than the minimum allowable. For warming up interior spaces you will have to spend a lot of energy, and heat leakage will adversely affect the quality of bath procedures.

"Pretty bad! Another old story! After finishing building the house,
you notice that at the same time you imperceptibly learned something that is absolutely necessary
had to know before starting construction. The eternal unbearable "too late"! ... "
On the other side of good and evil. Friedrich Nietzsche.

Temka, most likely, will turn out to be short, but I think it will be useful not only for those who are going to build their house from round logs, but also from hand-cut logs.

The unique properties of a log as an environmentally friendly, durable and reliable material are confirmed by centuries of experience in using it as a material for building a home.

Anyone who is serious about building a house out of wood will find many advantages for themselves in both round logs and hand-cut logs.

Construction wooden houses from rounded logs, due to the high degree of prefabrication and processing of the log house elements in three planes, it is carried out in the shortest possible time (like a designer) and is cheaper than a manual log cabin. At the same time, the quality of the crown joints will undoubtedly be higher than with manual felling, and about
Irreconcilable, selflessly in love with the "top most-most protective layer of wood", called sapwood,.

Here I would like to consider only one aspect of the choice, namely the choice of the diameter of the log for the log house, more precisely, the ratio of the width of the crown groove and the diameter of the log.
And a little later, the shape of this very groove.

Most companies produce a rounded log with a width of the crown groove equal to half the diameter of the log, which is the minimum ratio provided for, and is dictated primarily by the fact that it is easier to manufacture, the material consumption per log house is less, the cost of the log house is lower and, as a result, allows you to position your products as more competitive in terms of price.
For the developer, the question should be more important: “What will I get for my money in terms of consumer qualities, besides the very diameter of the log?”

Just as the strength of the entire chain is determined by its weak link, so from a log it is determined, basically, not by the thickness (diameter) of the selected log, but by a weak point, namely -.

Is there an optimal ratio between monetary costs (cubic capacity of a log per frame) and the ratio of the groove width to the diameter of the log, which would provide the same heat-shielding qualities of the wall?
Of course, there is and it is quite simple.

If you look at the figure, the width of the groove B, the effective height of the log in the log house H and log diameter D connected by formulas known to everyone since elementary school.

With an increase in the width of the groove, the effective height of the log in the frame (height of the crown) decreases.
The width of the slot increases in proportion to the cosine, and the height - to the sine of the angle.
Up to a certain value, namely up to 45 gr., the width of the groove increases faster than the height of the log decreases, i.e. this occurs until the value of the width of the groove and the height of the log is equal to 0.707 * D.

In fact, due to the fact that the log “works” along the thickness of the wall in terms of thermal protection not only with the width of the groove, but with its entire cross section, this ratio is somewhat different, and with a more rigorous calculation, the optimal groove width is approximately 2/3 of the diameter, while the height of the log in the log house will be - 3/4 of the diameter.
For comparison, the standard values ​​​​on the housing construction market are 0.5 and 0.87 diameters, respectively.

What does this give us? - Translated into Russian: Due to the optimal diameter / groove ratio the same thermally technical wall will cost the developer almost 20% cheaper.

A log house is a traditional design of a bath, used since ancient times. The durability of the structure and the comfort of its operation depend on the correct choice of the diameter of the logs. Optimal size lumber should be determined based on a number of factors.

Log type selection

At the moment, the following types of lumber can be used for the construction of log cabins:

• A simple skinned log with a traditional appearance. The main advantage of the material is the protection of the core due to the preservation of the upper layer.
• The planed log has a beautiful texture and a light shade due to processing by hand planers. Has a high cost and requires application protective compounds.
• The rounded log, due to the use of special equipment in the production, has a smooth surface and the same diameter along the entire length. The disadvantages are similar to those of planed lumber.
• A bar with a square section has a democratic cost. Structures made of it have smooth smooth walls. The disadvantage is the complexity of the assembly, which requires fitting each element on the construction site.

Advice! Regardless of the type of lumber chosen, it must be treated with special compounds to increase the durability and aesthetic appeal of the structure.

What influences the choice of log diameter?

As a standard, lumber 20-36 cm in size is selected for baths. Rounded logs have a diameter smaller by 1 cm than unprocessed logs, which are measured together with the bark.

Factors to consider when choosing lumber:

• Air temperature in the region in winter;
• The frequency of use of the bath;
• The size of the log house;
• drying technology.

Advice! For construction in central Russia, it is advisable to choose coniferous trees grown in the northern regions. Such material has a higher density and less moisture absorption, which, accordingly, increases the service life of the structure.

Dependence on winter temperature in the region:

*For middle lane the cross section should be within 22-30 cm.

For one-story bath on suburban area, used exclusively in summer, there are enough logs with a diameter of 18-20 cm. The building does not require the construction of a powerful foundation and can be built by hand. Such a building warms up quickly, but retains heat for a short time.

A bath for year-round use is built from a log with a diameter of at least 24 cm. The foundation is required to be monolithic or massive tape.

Important! When using large diameter lumber for construction, it is necessary to involve assistants or special equipment.

It is more difficult to warm up a two-story bathhouse or a building with an attic, therefore, in order to reduce heat loss and increase the bearing capacity of the walls, they are built from a log with a diameter of at least 25 cm.

The drying technology of wood is reflected in its moisture content, which determines the degree of shrinkage of the structure, which is:

• Lumber of natural moisture obtained by manual felling - at least 15 cm;
• Winter forest and natural drying - not less than 4-6 cm;
• The rounded log of chamber drying - 3 cm.

This parameter must be taken into account when designing the height of the building and calculating the amount of wood required.

Logs should not be damaged by insects and mechanical damage. It is necessary to choose straight trunks without curvature, having the smallest discrepancy between the diameters of the ends - up to 3 cm. For sawn timber with a length of more than 3 meters, a tolerance of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

Important! The labor intensity of the work, as well as the cost of the log house, is directly proportional to the thickness of the logs - the larger it is, the more difficult it is to build and the more expensive it will cost.

Self-harvesting logs:

• Independent logging is carried out in winter, when the wood has a moisture content of up to 10-12% - this ensures minimal shrinkage of the building and makes it possible to use material with a smaller cross section.
• When choosing trunks, it adds 1 cm to the estimated diameter of the logs for subsequent processing.
• When using an electric or chainsaw, it must be taken into account that after the passage of these tools, the treated surface turns out to be significantly disheveled, as a result of which it is more susceptible to decay. To warn this master, it is recommended not to reach the markup of 5-10 mm, to cut down the wood between the previously made transverse cuts and to carry out the finishing with an ax.
• For construction, freshly sawn logs are used, which are easier to process. Such wood, after drying in a laid frame, is less deformed and cracked.
• After removing the bark, the lumber is stacked, placing bars between the layers to organize air circulation. The logs are stored under a canopy or covered with a moisture-proof material that also protects from direct sunlight. Drying lasts two weeks, after which the felling of the log house begins. Dried wood is difficult to process.
• To reduce the cracking of logs on the facades, in each of them, cuts are made from the side opposite to the longitudinal groove. Their depth should be up to ¼ of the diameter of the lumber. These files are designed to compensate for internal stresses that occur during the processes of wetting and drying under the influence of atmospheric factors, and, as a result, to prevent cracks.

A competent choice and logging for construction allows you to get a durable, warm and aesthetically attractive bath.

Wood is one of the most common building materials on earth, dating back centuries. Houses, baths, churches are built from wood, elite cottages and temporary buildings are erected. The ubiquity and availability of wood provide this material with increased attractiveness in the eyes of developers.

Our portal has already told in detail, and. We continue the series of articles we started.

So, from our material you will learn:

• How to build warm and comfortable logs.
• How to calculate the required wall thickness.
• What features you need to pay attention to when choosing the width of the groove.
• What are the types of cutting.
• What are the nuances you need to know before starting the construction of a log house.

Calculation of the thickness of the walls of the log house and the diameter of the log

Will it be warm in a wooden house if the diameter of the logs is 25, 30, 35 or more cm. This is one of the main questions that any developer who wants to build a house from a debarked or rounded log should ask himself. Agree that it is unreasonableif it later turns out that the thickness of the walls is not enough to comfortably survive the harsh winter. Insulating the house from the outside or from the inside is also not an option: all the aesthetics of the log will disappear. It remains to intensively heat the log house and increase energy costs or pre-calculate the sufficient thickness of the walls in relation to the region of residence.

In one of our past articles, we have already described in detail for a stone house. At first glance, it seems that it is easy to make a calculation for a log house - you need to find out the required normalized thermal resistance of the walls (R) in your region of residence. To do this, we find this data on the Internet. For example, for simplified calculation(for Moscow and the Moscow region) we take R = 3.0 (m² * ° С) / W.

Now we need to find out the actual value of the heat resistance of a wall made of a log of a certain diameter. After that, we will be able to find out (based on the calculation) whether the heat transfer resistance meets the standards. To do this, use the following formula:

R= d/λ, where:

d is the thickness of the material;

λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material W/(m·°C).

This is where the first pitfall lies. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood (λ) is presented in the following table:

As you can see, it contains three values. Which one to take, and what do “normal” and “wet” conditions mean?

Hermes-sz FORUMHOUSE user

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material (including insulation) largely depends on its humidity. And the operational humidity of the material depends on the climatic zone and the mode of use of the room.

For example, the thermal conductivity of pine and spruce (in a dry state) across the fibers (thermal energy from a wooden house goes out across the log ) is 0.09 W/(m °C). Under normal operating conditions (A) and during operation in a humid area (B), the thermal conductivity of the material increases and amounts to 0.14-0.18 W/(m °C).

If the material is waterlogged, its coefficient of thermal conductivity increases, and the thermal resistance of the structure decreases. That's why, for an approximate calculation let's take the following value: the material of the walls is pine, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material (the average value under normal operating conditions) is 0.15 W/(m °C).

Most often, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of materials and heaters is indicated in a dry state, i.e. obtained from laboratory tests that differ from actual operating conditions. This must be remembered when making an independent calculation.

So, we figured out the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the tree. It remains to choose the thickness of the wall for which you want to calculate. And here lies the second pitfall. The logs are stacked on top of each other, i.e. there is a groove. Moreover, depending on the diameter of the log (D), the requirements of the customer, the width of the groove (H) changes, and hence the actual width of this node in relation to the thickness of the log. This relationship is shown in the following figure.

It can be seen that with the same diameter of logs, depending on design features junction of logs, the width of the groove may vary. Therefore, it is impossible to simply substitute the thickness of the selected log into the above formula. We need some common denominator that can be used for calculation. To solve this problem, we will use the experience of the user of our portal with the nickname zaletchik.

zaletchik FORUMHOUSE user

I want to live in a log house. There is no gas at the site, and it is not expected. Region of residence - Moscow region. This means that the issue of reducing heating costs is acute. I am going to heat the house with a diesel-fueled boiler. These input data forced me to study the thermophysical properties of the log house.

At first zaletchik calculated thermal characteristics by calculating the average value of the thickness of the enclosing structure. This approach was not entirely correct, because. heat losses were considered directly proportional to the wall thickness. As a result brainstorming and communication with FORUMHOUSE users, zaletchik made a better calculation.

zaletchik

For a correct calculation of the thermal conductivity of the walls of a log house, I calculated the thickness of a log house made of timber, which has the same thermal insulation properties as a log house made of a log of a certain diameter (D).

Leaving beyond the scope of the article the details of the calculations, which can be found in the topic, let's immediately move on to the obtained coefficients that we need for the calculation.

For different values ​​of ε (H/D ratio of groove thickness to log diameter) the corresponding values ​​of μ (Heff*D the ratio of the thickness of the beam to the diameter of the log having the same heat transfer properties). The results are summarized in a table.

For clarity, consider the following example. Let's say the diameter of the log used in the construction of the log house is 45 cm. The width of the groove is 23 cm. Hence: ε = 23/45 = 0.5. Now we find in the table the value of μ corresponding to the received figure. This is 0.83. Next, we find the thickness of the wall made of timber, in relation to the diameter of the log, which have the same heat-conducting properties: 0.83 * 45 = 37.4 cm. Convert to meters - 0.374 m.

R = d/λ, where:

d is the thickness of the material;

λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material W/(m·°C). In our version, pine logs are 0.15 W/(m °C).

R = 0.374/0.15 = 2.49 (m²*°С)/W

Or, you can use this formula:

R = μD/λ, where:

μ - coefficient, taken from the table above;

D - log diameter in m;

λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood.

R \u003d 0.83 * 0.45 / 0.15 \u003d 2.49 (m² * ° C) / W

One of the factors determining the heat resistance of walls is the diameter of the log and the type of wood.

Earlier we indicated that for Moscow and the Moscow region R = 3.0 (m²*°С)/W. Based on the result obtained, for walls made of pine logs, R = 2.49 (m² * ° C) / W. Those. the wall does not reach the regulated value of heat resistance. You can increase the diameter of the log or choose another wood - cedar pine. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material (leave the log diameter and groove width unchanged) is 0.095-0.10 W/(m °C).

We make a calculation.

R \u003d 0.83 * 0.45 / 0.10 \u003d 3.74 (m² * ° C) / W

That is, the norm for the actual heat transfer resistance is exceeded.

You can go the other way and use a different formula to find out the required diameter of the log from the ratio: the width of the groove is half the diameter of the log.

D = Rtp*λ/0.83, where:

Rtp - regulated thermal resistance of the wall;

λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood;

We do the calculation for the pine.

D \u003d 3.0 * 0.15 / 0.83 \u003d 0.54 m.

Using this technique and "playing" with different values ​​- changing the diameter of the log, the width of the groove, wood - you can make an independent calculation and choose the optimal thickness of the wall of a log house.

zaletchik

My great-grandfather and grandfather were specialists in the construction of log cabins, logging and woodworking. From them I learned about the required groove width of 1/2...2/3 of the log diameter.

Also, the thermal efficiency of a log wall is affected not only by the width of the groove, but also by the profile of the log - its cross section: round or so-called. semi-log, hewn on both sides - gun carriage. By cutting wood, we reduce the heat resistance of the wall, because. the log in the wall works with all its section.

Of course the results this simplified calculation indicative. Most of the heat loss in the house occurs through windows, ventilation system, roof and foundation. Those. warm wooden house is a balanced system where all nodes work in close cooperation and correspond to each other. It makes no sense to make walls from logs with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 meters and choose a wide groove, if the house is blown through the cracks, A corners freeze through.

Log cabin features

To choose best option felling a log house and thereby making it warm, you need to understand what options for felling exist and how they differ from each other. First you need to define such concepts as cutting and crown.

Hermes-sz

A cut is a combination of various wooden parts rift between each other.

With proper cutting, the loads are evenly redistributed between the logs. To do this, all parts in contact must fit snugly against each other. Also, moisture should not accumulate in these places, which over time can cause wood decay.

Crown- This is a log house, consisting of four logs laid in a horizontal plane. At the corners, the crown is connected by a notch. In the process of building a house, the crowns are stacked on top of each other - a wall is obtained.

It should be remembered that the number of crowns depends on the diameter of the log and the width of the groove, which affects the consumption of material, and therefore the final price and thermal properties of the log house. For example, to build a wall 3 meters high from a log with a diameter of 25 cm and 40 cm, you will need different amount crowns. When building a house from a log of a larger diameter, the number of cuttings, locks, and interventional joints is reduced. Those. places that can subsequently be blown through, which will lead to heat loss.

When choosing a log for a log house, it is necessary to strike a balance between the diameter of the log, its cost (the price for the material) and the price for working with such a log.

It is physically more difficult for craftsmen to work with a log of large diameter. It may also require the use of special equipment - a crane.

In addition, when choosing a debarked log as a building material, we remember such a parameter as taper.

Escape- the difference in the thickness of the log in the ratio of the diameter of the butt and the top. A debarked log that has not undergone machine processing, unlike rounded logs, cannot be completely even. Its lower part (especially with a large log length) is always thicker than the top. To make the wall smooth, when building a chopped house, the craftsmen, when laying crowns, alternate logs of different thicknesses.

The cutting itself is usually divided into two types:

1. No residue (in the paw).
2. With the rest (in the bowl).

Cutting without a trace or in a clean corner, involves the maximum use of the entire length of the material.

With such a felling, a right angle is obtained, which increases the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house and reduces the consumption of logs. But, based on practical experience, we can say that this type of angle is prone to freezing. To avoid this, back in the old days, the corners of a house cut down “in the paw” were sheathed with overhead boards, or, alternatively, the house was subsequently lined with bricks. This prevented freezing and blowing corners.

Cutting with residue- more expensive, but also more heat-efficient option. Because the ends of the logs protrude at the corners of the house, this node is more protected from blowing, pouring rain and freezing.

Leaving all the diversity outside the scope of this article various kinds felling, we will focus on the key features of the three main types of felling. This:

• Russian felling;
• Canadian felling;
• Norwegian felling.

Traditionally in our country wooden houses built from round logs. A semicircular groove is made along the log. The corner lock is made by cutting into the “oblo” into the bowl. The name comes from the word "blank", i.e. round. The bowl can be positioned up or down.

If the bowl is located downwards (cutting the bowl into a fold), then such a connection is considered more moisture resistant, and the log is better preserved.

When choosing this type of felling, one nuance must be taken into account.

Hermes-sz

The main disadvantage of Russian felling is that the logs dry out along and across the fibers differently. As a result, after shrinkage, the logs do not sit tightly enough in the log house.

With a decrease in the diameter of the log, the shape of the connecting bowls changes. The bowls open and from semicircular become oval. Cracks appear. As a result, the log house has to be caulked again. In addition, open insulation is exposed to adverse atmospheric phenomena. It is saturated with water, and the logs may begin to rot.

This disadvantage is devoid of a log house made in Finnish. The principle is the same as in the Russian felling, except that in this version the interventional groove is made with a smaller radius (oval). Thus, the upper log rests on the lower log only at the edges (undercut).

As a result, when the logs shrink, the edges of the interventional groove do not open, the logs sit tightly, there are no cracks, and the insulation is not affected by wind and rain.

Norwegian felling. Traditionally, a log house in Norwegian is considered to be a log gun carriage, although the main difference is the type of lock.