Where to place sockets in the apartment. What is the optimal location of sockets in the kitchen and how many of them are needed. Recommendations for installation height and location of sockets and switches in the bedroom

Both the construction of new housing and the carrying out overhaul in a house or apartment involves a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes organizing the introduction of a common power supply line, creating a grounding loop and potential equalization, installation switchboard with an energy consumption meter, laying in-house electrical networks and distribution boxes, and finally, installing lighting devices and custom electrical fittings - switches and sockets.

By and large, this, of course, is a task for electrical specialists. However, many works can be carried out independently, provided that you home handyman there are basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, organization of internal electrical networks and skills in general construction and electrical installation work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of debate on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be understood in more detail.

Basic parameters for the correct installation of sockets and switches

It should be noted right away that finding exact uniform standards for the installation height of switches and sockets is quite difficult, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to existing “European standards” are just a desire to copy the established fashionable trend of “European renovation”, the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.

By the way, installation standards existed for some time - it was they that guided builders when constructing residential buildings of mass multi-story buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (at level eye). In most old-built apartments, such wiring can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and have no intention of changing it.

What explains these parameters is difficult to say now. Perhaps this was caused by safety reasons - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the field of view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points - sockets - remain accessible to children, and there are no special safety considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot put out the light on his own. Another probable reason for such an installation is that it was always carried out in rooms on top of the walls, and such placement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cables (on the scale of mass construction carried out in those years, the savings were serious).

However, today the accepted European standards are more in use, rather than the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?

Some construction guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning during the construction phase of the house):

• Sockets – 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (slab interfloor covering). Thus, after pouring the screed and installing the finishing floor covering, the height will be about 300 mm.
• – 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm upon completion of finishing work.

How is this convenient? Sockets and included power cables are not noticeable and do not damage appearance room, and you can turn the light on or off with your hand down freely. It is possible to teach children to be independent (with adult supervision, of course) - the switch is within their reach.

It is worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.

There are special requirements for installing sockets and switches in institutions associated with children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of no lower than 1800 mm.

So, if we talk only about the installation height of sockets and residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three options:

1 — When making repairs, do not change the location of sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual “Soviet standards” if this seems more convenient and safer.

2 — Redesign the arrangement of the fittings elements according to the European traditions, which were mentioned above.

3 — Provide your own location based on personal preferences and convenience - this in no way contradicts the existing rules.

There are significantly more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current operating rules for electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:

• The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - provided that special skirting boards with cable channels made of fireproof materials and special types of sockets.

• IN production premises However, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with overhead network wiring, you can raise them to 1500 mm. We have already mentioned about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
• In apartment conditions, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically close the holes when the plug is pulled out.

• Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be placed closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or doorways, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tensioned), then both the wiring and the junction box must be below its level.
• It is not recommended to install sockets in bathrooms. If you still can’t do without it, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the door of the shower stall or bathtub. At the same time prerequisite is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased tightness of the housing and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with the obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of no more than 30 mA.

To finish the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. “Design” does not play a special role in such conditions, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling iron or electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one or even one and a half meters. In this case, placing an outlet above the washbasin is absolutely excluded.

• Switches are usually mounted on the wall at the entrance, on the side door handles. Installation height – from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them higher, providing, for example, the ability to turn on using a cord. Very often in small rooms (in hallways, kitchens, in rooms with a small area) it is necessary to combine sockets and switches in blocks - then the optimal height for such a block is considered to be about 900 mm from the floor - the “golden mean”.

In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to replace the old sockets with new ones, the so-called “European format”. Their hole diameter is 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug is also slightly wider. Such sockets can withstand much larger loads - usually they are designed for currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).

In addition, if there are no outlets connected to the old location ground loop- you will have to deal with this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-pin plugs with grounding to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances, connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). Several are in a special publication on our portal.

Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall

Prices for sockets, switches and frames

Sockets, switches and frames

Some nuances of installing the cable part

Once done general repairs, then it is worth checking the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of ​​at least 1.5 mm². This cross section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if you plan to install household appliances increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.

It probably makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.

• Each socket (group of sockets) or switch must have a supply from an individual mounting box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to socket to the other is unwise, and in some cases can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reboot of this line with all the ensuing consequences.

• Strictly vertical wiring must run from mounting boxes with sockets or switches. This is explained simply - you can always visually determine the location of the power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in any order - at an angle (as in figure No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (Pos. No. 2) from the location of the socket (switch), then it can become an object of hidden danger.

After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, this will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When trying, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or shelf, there is a high probability of hitting a drill on a live power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for large-scale wiring repairs.

• But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if it is intended to install a suspended or stretch ceiling, the wiring can be placed arbitrarily, usually at the shortest distance. If a NYM type cable is used, it will not even require additional protective insulation - it can be attached directly to plastic dowel clamps. Cables of another type (VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe required diameter.

• On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be located arbitrarily, at the shortest distance. However, there are special caveats here. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed exclusively in metal pipes, regular or corrugated.

If the wiring is flooded concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.

• The next question is how often should sockets be installed, are there any standards in this regard?

There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece at 6 ÷ 10 square meters area. However, apparently, these “standards” are somewhat outdated, since the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think in advance about the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude in the future the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.

• And one more very important note, or rather, good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical installation work, you must take the time to photograph all the cable laying lines, the placement of distribution boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is advisable to take photographs in such a way that it is possible to link hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with putting down dimensions from a window or doorway, corner of a room, heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the required unit if any emergency, repair or maintenance work is required.

If you plan, then it is better to refer to a special publication on our portal, in which this issue is presented in more detail.

Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair

Cables and wires for construction and repair

Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen

The kitchen is a special room for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with evaporation, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, a modern kitchen is the center of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used simultaneously during cooking or other household operations, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.

The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. If you consider that many of them require separate power lines, then you can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard):

Obviously, a lot of sockets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the one installed in kitchen sink waste shredder and for additional lighting working space in the area of ​​the cutting table, stove, sink.

Here there can be no talk about any standards for the installation height of sockets - their location should be first of all, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection from moisture, for stationary equipment - concealed placement of wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:

It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in equipment, and if we add to this the variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives who whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing the equipment and laying out the wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.

• The power of the supplied power lines (cross-section of copper wires) has already been discussed - just compare the data from the first and second tables above. However, another figure is provided that can help you decide on this issue.

An important condition is that the total power of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneous inclusion of all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed under any circumstances, but insurance is still necessary.

• For the hob (electric stove) and for the oven ( IfThese are devices independent from each other) special power sockets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same thing if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.

• If a storage water heater (boiler) with a power of over 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I remember to connect it to a power outlet, or to a wall-mounted machine in a protective box. This unit operates in automatic mode almost constantly, and it doesn’t really need an outlet.
• The installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:

— On the wall, high up no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these fittings behind a standard removable furniture plinth.

- In the lockers kitchen set– provided that this piece of furniture does not have retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which could snag the electrical cable.

- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water supply and sewer pipes. In this case, the outlet must be sealed with a moisture-proof cover.

— On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for range hoods, additional lighting devices, and sometimes for a built-in microwave or refrigerator. The height of the sockets in this case is no less than 50 mm above the level top surface closet

• To connect desktop kitchen appliances sockets are placed on the wall, approximately 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, falls at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). In this case, the socket blocks should never be located above the sink or above the hob - they should be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.

Instead of such wall-mounted placement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now begun to be actively used - in the form of opening “books” or “columns” with sockets that slide up to connect.

It’s very convenient - the wall surface is “clean” and appears only when needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.

What other principles should be taken into account when placing sockets:

• A socket for built-in equipment can never be placed directly behind an installed device - it must be moved to the side, up or down.
• The distance from the device to the power socket must not exceed 1000 mm.
• All, without exception, lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.

When planning the installation of power lines in the kitchen, of course, you should proceed from the actual characteristics of household appliances. It would probably be better to contact an electrical engineering organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this diagram, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets “on the ground” - to determine the places for making sockets building in the wall and cutting out grooves for them.

It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be “placed” on the same power line with a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a specific outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.

Video: not an easy task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen

1. For home appliances and indoor lighting

Before installing a kitchen, it is important to plan the location of the equipment and its quantity in order to provide the necessary sockets. Standard items: stove or oven, refrigerator, hood. Optional: microwave oven, dishwasher, kettle, coffee machine, toaster, multicooker, built-in lighting.

When renovating, you cannot know for sure whether you will have a toaster in a few years or not, so it is better to make a little more sockets in advance. It should be taken into account that not every time it will be used and connected to the network at the same time. The result is approximately 7-8 sockets only in the area of ​​the kitchen unit. Add a couple more pieces near the dining table - in case you need to connect your phone to charge or want to put it there.

Recommended installation height for sockets for built-in appliances: 30-60 cm. Some place them in the furniture base - at a height of 5 cm from the floor. Sockets should not be located directly behind built-in electrical appliances. It is better to make a socket for the hood at a height of 50-60 mm from the top kitchen cabinet. It should not be covered by the ventilation duct.

Place the sockets above the tabletop at a height of 10-30 cm from the work surface.

2. For additional equipment

Sometimes sockets in the kitchen are also needed for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, they should be placed at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor.

A common kitchen switch is sometimes placed in the hallway; place it at a height of 75-90 cm and at a distance of 10-15 cm from the door.

Design: AnARCHI

The placement of outlets for the TV depends on the location where you place it and the size of the screen. It is better to hide them behind the screen, but provide access to the power plugs. You will need 2 standard electrical outlets: one TV and one Internet outlet - a mandatory option for modern smart TVs.

1. At the door

For the location of switches and sockets at the living room door, the same rules apply as in the kitchen: height 75-90 cm, free access for all family members of different heights.

An outlet is also needed in the entrance area: for a vacuum cleaner or a heater. On average, the height from the floor should be 30 cm, from the door opening - 10 cm.

2. In the TV zone

A TV is a must-have item for many in the living room. You need several sockets. The average height of the location is 130 cm, then they will not be visible behind the equipment. You will need 2 electrical outlets and one outlet each for TV and Internet.

Design: Studio NW-Interior

3. In the sofa area

When planning outlets in the living room, you need to take into account the location of floor lamps, electrical appliances, as well as additional outlets for a laptop and telephone. The average height of the location is from 30 cm.

Often, when planning outlets in living rooms, appliances such as air conditioners, electric fireplaces, and game consoles are forgotten. Consider the appliances you have and those you plan to purchase, and based on this, plan the number of outlets.

4. At the desktop

Often the living room is also. In this case, you will need more sockets. Provide 2-3 pieces in the place where the desktop will be. It’s more convenient to place them above the table so as not to have to crawl under it every time to turn it on/off, but not everyone likes this solution aesthetically. If you have a desktop computer, you can put sockets at the bottom - it is unlikely that you will constantly turn it on and off.

Design: ItalProject

Children's room

1. At the door

At the entrance to the room, a switch is traditionally placed. Typically, the toggle switch is installed at a height of 75-90 cm from the floor, so that each family member is comfortable. It is also important to ensure that the switch is not blocking a cabinet or an open door - place it on the same side as the handle.

An outlet should also be located next to the switch. You will need it for a vacuum cleaner, heater or humidifier. Recommended placement parameters: height about 30 cm and distance from the door 10 cm. If the child is small and begins to walk, provide plugs or covers for sockets.

2. At the berth

Near the bed you will need an outlet for a night light, a musical pendant for the crib or another device (for example, a humidifier). Don't forget about protection; this place will become the most accessible for the child as soon as he begins to stand up on his own in the crib.

For an adult child, sockets are also useful opposite the bed for the TV. Sometimes they can be interestingly used in the interior if you haven’t bought a TV yet.

3. At the desktop

The student's room should be with desk- sockets are also needed there. At least for a lamp and a computer. Where to place it - above the countertop or below - is a controversial issue. Some people find it inconvenient to constantly crawl under the table to connect the device. Others don't like the look of wires. Choose after weighing the pros and cons.

Bedroom

1. Next to the bed

A modern person needs an outlet near the bed. Charge your phone, e-book, work on your laptop - it will be inconvenient without an outlet nearby. A block of several sockets on the sides of the bed will save you from these inconveniences.

2. Near functional areas

Further options depend on the furniture and areas that are provided in the bedroom. If this is a desktop, the rules will be the same as for the living room and children's room. If you want to hang a TV, also consider the recommendations listed above.

Design: Olga Shipkova

3. At the door

Here you need to place a switch - the average height is the same as in other rooms. There may be several switches, depending on: spots, floor lamps, sconces. It would also be a good idea to provide an outlet for a vacuum cleaner.

Bathroom

The number of sockets depends on the electrical appliances that you will place in the bathroom. Standard: , hair dryer; optional: water heater and . It is important that the distance from the outlet to the floor and water source is at least 60 cm.

For the bathroom, special waterproof versions of sockets with a cover and a special degree of protection are needed. They are protected on the inside and allow water to drain if it gets inside the outlet.

Hallway

In the hallway you need a socket and a switch front door. The socket is useful for a vacuum cleaner, and it is always convenient to turn on the light immediately after entering the apartment. Sometimes switches are placed in the hallway at the entrance to the bathroom and kitchen.

When planning renovations in an apartment/house, you need to pay special attention to the location of electrical accessories. It is advisable to sketch out a plan for the lighting scenario for each room, the layout of switches, and the connection of electrical appliances.

For example, sockets in the bedroom require connecting a sconce (night light), iron, TV, charging a tablet, or a phone. Having thought through everything in advance, you can ensure a comfortable, safe stay for your family in the room, excluding the presence of extension cords, additional wires, possible damage and short circuit. How many sockets do you need? How to arrange them correctly? Let's answer this question step by step.

How many sockets are needed?

The number of sockets in a sleeping area depends on the number of people who will live here, their interests, the size of the room, and the location of the furniture. If the room is for one person, then there may be a quarter less of them compared to a double room.

To have an idea of ​​the minimum comfortable number and location of power supply points, you need to know where they should be installed.

So, most often the connector is needed:

1. In the bedside area, where bedside tables with night lamps are usually placed. This is very convenient for a family with a small child or for those who like to read a magazine, newspaper or book. Moreover, an outlet must be installed near each bed.
2. For TV and related equipment. For this purpose, at least two sockets are installed.
3. For connecting an iron.
4. Near the front door for a vacuum cleaner and other electrical appliances.
5. Near the desk/dressing table. Here it is better to place several sockets for electrical power supply to a table lamp, computer and related equipment.

Let's sum it up, we get 8 electrical power sources. We emphasize: this is minimal required quantity, which should be for the improvement of a modern bedroom.

Socket by the bedside table

How many sockets for connecting electrical appliances should be located near the bed? It all depends on the habits, lifestyle and needs of the owners of the room. Some people like to read literature in the light of a lamp or prefer to turn on a laptop/tablet to check email, surf social networks, or play online games.

So, bedside sockets are needed to connect:

• small lamps - night lights, sconces, bedside table lamps;
• charger for all kinds of gadgets: phones, laptops, tablets;
• additional technical devices: electronic alarm clock, salt lamp, receiver, heating pad, etc.

Sockets by the bed are located at arm's length from the bed, usually above the bedside table at a height of 10–20 cm.

Attention! Three sockets are the optimal number for one bed. If there is a double bed, their number doubles.

TV sockets

Many people prefer to turn on the TV before going to bed to watch the news, a movie, or a program. Moreover, the TV is often used as a monitor that receives signals from a digital or satellite television tuner, DVD recorder or player, VCR (if there is one) and other video equipment. To power them, an additional source is needed, but a “block” of several outlets is better.

General purpose sockets

The location of electrical installation products near the front door or window sill is not always provided for by designers, but their presence is necessary for connection:

• heaters: UFO, Termoplaza, ceramic or oil heater;
• vacuum cleaner;
• decorative fountain;
• air conditioner;
• humidifier, etc.

If the bedroom is large, then it is advisable to install two blocks of sockets on opposite walls of the room.

Iron socket

If the house/apartment does not have a dressing room, laundry room or linen room, then you have to iron the laundry in the bedroom. The iron is a powerful consumer of electricity, therefore, to connect it, regardless of the size of the sleeping area, a separate connector must be provided. It is installed at a distance of 10–15 cm from the ironing surface. Otherwise, using the iron will not be so convenient.

Socket at the dressing table

The area of ​​the room near the dressing table is any woman’s favorite place. Usually there is a mirror with built-in or table lighting (and more than one), a hair dryer, curling iron and other items that help emphasize female beauty.

To ensure the operation of electrical devices, a block of 3–4 sockets is provided, rising 5–10 centimeters above the level of the countertop.

Height of sockets in the bedroom

Two factors that are taken into account when choosing the height of placement of sockets and switches:

• convenience;
• harmonious combination with the interior of the room.

Advice! When calculating the height of switches/sockets, consider the height of the finished floor.

In the bedroom, all power points should be visible, easily accessible for regular use, and not installed according to the “European standard” - at an interval of 30 centimeters to the floor or according to the “Soviet” - at an interval of 90 centimeters above the floor surface.

Attention! It is strictly forbidden to place sockets less than 30 cm from the floor! The ingress of dust, debris, and water during cleaning can result in a short circuit, electrical wiring failure, or even a fire.

• place the connectors at a distance of 25 cm to the sleeping place and at a distance of 60 cm to the floor or 10–15 centimeters to the surface of the tabletop of the bedside table;
• separate bedside connectors by placing them at a distance from each other and/or at different heights;
• install power supplies for electrical appliances on an open wall (without installed furniture) at a height of 50–100 centimeters;
• install sockets near the cabinet to install lighting in it.

It is important that sockets and switches are of high quality and fit harmoniously into the interior of the room. Therefore, it is recommended to buy only those electrical installation products that are made according to European standards.

When engaged in renovation or construction, many apartment owners are wondering how to properly place switches or sockets in the apartment. After all, not only the ease of use of them, but also the safety of operation, and, consequently, health, depends on this.

To properly understand this issue, let’s consider the rules for their placement that existed in the recent past and new trends that came from other countries.

Old traditions

In Soviet times, it was customary to install light switches in residential premises near the entrance to them at the height of an adult’s shoulders or place them under the ceiling. And the sockets were mounted in the wall at a distance of 90-100 cm from the floor.

An example of placing a ceiling switch in a corridor. To control the light, a cord is attached to a mechanical spring-loaded lever hidden inside the housing. The first time you pull it, the light comes on, and the second time it goes out.

Wall switches were located at a level of about 160÷180 cm from the floor. This distance was considered the most suitable, optimal for controlling light. An example of placing a switch block between a doorway is shown in the photograph.

The following picture shows the location of the outlet in the room according to the old rules.

Nowadays, residents of many apartments still use electrical wiring with this arrangement of switching devices; they are accustomed to it and consider it the norm.

New trends of the times - Eurostandard

In fact, the term “Eurostandard” is now often used, but it does not define anything particularly specific in the issue we are considering, since it came to us from neighboring countries along with the concept of “European renovation”, and is intended for a set of calculations of structures in construction and their protection in the interests of consumer.

Current building codes, as well as rules for electrical installations, do not strictly limit the height of placement, the number or location of sockets and switches in residential premises. They only give general recommendations, specifying dangerous premises and methods of installation in them in compliance with protective measures.

In the kitchen shortest distance from electrical appliances, including sockets and switches, to gas equipment(stoves, gas pipelines) should be more than 50 cm.

Inside bathrooms, it is permissible to install sockets in zone 3, which is limited to a distance of 60 cm from the sink, bathtub and other water equipment. GOST R 50571.11-96 defines the rules for use in such premises protective devices: differential circuit breakers, RCDs, isolation transformers.

Therefore, choose a location electrical outlets and switches must take into account their ease of use, and not just the traditions established in the past.

For each room, before carrying out electrical work, it is necessary to draw up a sketch, a scale plan with the location of furniture and electrical appliances, mark on it the places of connection to the electrical network, including low-current circuits: telephone, television, alarm and other devices.

It is important to provide a small reserve of these places for future equipment. Practice shows that this is justified.

Location of sockets

They are for equipment in a stationary location, such as a TV, computer, washing machine, freezer... must be located with free access to them, but it is advisable to hide it behind the appliances themselves.

For design purposes, periodically used sockets are usually placed at the same height from the floor; usually this distance is about 30 cm. In this case, they are less noticeable. It is recommended to choose such a number that it is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner and portable electrical appliances in all rooms.

Electrical sockets above the desk and bedside tables are placed above the surface of the furniture at a height of 10÷20 cm.

Switch locations

It is recommended to mount them on the wall near the front door on the handle side at a distance of more than 10 cm from the opening and a height of about 90-100 cm. This location is convenient for adults: there is no need to raise your hand high. And children aged four years and older can already use the lighting themselves.

Ceiling-mounted switch designs with a lowered cord for control are still used in room designs.

The type of room and its purpose must also be taken into account when installing switches. In a long corridor, at its ends, you can install two pass-through switches to control one lamp. At the entrance to nearby rooms, you can place a block of several switches to control the light in separate rooms from one place.

It is convenient to place switches in the bedroom so that you can turn off the lighting without getting out of bed, simple lifting hands.

The rule used in most cases for installing sockets 30 cm from the floor and switches 90 cm is considered universal. If you are not sure about the future placement of furniture or electrical appliances in the room, then feel free to use this method.

How to plan the placement of sockets and switches in rooms

To draw up a working sketch of the location of electrical appliances and furniture, use general recommendations shown in the picture below.

Inside the corridor it is convenient to place:

apartment distribution board with circuit breakers;

electric meter (it can be installed in apartment panel or separately, depending on local conditions);

switch or block of them;

• branch box for connecting cables.

The picture below shows one of possible options installation of electrical appliances in the corridor.

For the bedroom, the option of placing sockets and switches on both sides of the bed is shown in the following figure.

Bathrooms and showers require special attention for electrical safety due to high humidity. Placing a socket, fan and button in them remote control electrical appliances is demonstrated by the plan below.

The following diagram shows the installation of electrical equipment in the kitchen, taking into account the location in different places of sockets for the hood, gas stove and electrified cookware: multicooker, electric kettle, pressure cooker, bread maker...

Here, the installation height of the socket above the table can vary depending on its height. It is convenient to install it so that it rises 10-15 cm above the surface of the furniture. Moreover, for modern kitchen It is better to use not a single electrical outlet, but a whole block of them.

The daily comfort of all inhabitants of a city apartment depends on the electrical circuit. Most of us know that there are never too many sockets and it is better to place them at a level of 25–30 centimeters from the floor, and switches at a height of 85–90 centimeters. But this basic knowledge is not enough to make your home truly ergonomic. Brainstorm Buro designer Galina Tishutina compiled for The Village detailed guide on how to properly plan the electrical system in an apartment.

Galina Tishutina

Automatic and RCD

Once we were faced with a customer’s desire to make a huge panel for a couple of dozen machines in a house built in 1969 with gas stove. It seemed that the solution would be very reliable. But in the end, such a large number of machines was not justified.

It all depends on how powerful the input machine is at the very beginning of the circuit, that is, near the electric meter. The formula is simple: power is equal to current multiplied by voltage. Thus, if your input circuit breaker is 25 A, then you will have 25 A x 220 V = 5.5 kW in total for all your electrical appliances in the apartment. What happens if you include a little more at one time? Everyone knows what will blow the traffic jams. But let's figure out what's behind this and understand the role of automata.

The machine will instantly turn off when short circuit or in the case of an RCD (residual current device) - in case of current leakage. Its main task is to prevent heating and destruction of the wiring during a smooth increase in load. That is, when on a winter evening you turn on too many energy consumers, the machine should work first, take the blow, so that the wiring remains cold, and therefore intact. To accomplish this task, the power of the machine must be directly related to the cross-section of the cable that is connected to it.

Hence our main advice: carefully look at the material of the input cable (copper or aluminum) in the electric meter of your apartment, what cross-section this cable is and what condition it is in. This will determine real opportunities based on the total power of electrical appliances in your home.

Master switch

If during the renovation you redo all the electrics, then it’s worth making a “hotel” system, which we already talked about. All that is needed is to connect all the lighting circuits to a separate group of machines in the panel. In practice, this means several additional meters of cable and some effort in laying it. But you can include a master switch in the circuit, which will control this group of machines through a relay. The master switch looks like a regular key, and it is better to place it directly at the front door. And if the apartment is small and there is not much lighting, then you can get by with an ordinary switch: it opens the circuit up to 2.2 kW, which is quite enough. Now, when getting ready to go outside, you press one button - and the apartment plunges into darkness. But at the same time everything household appliances will continue to work.

Hallway and corridor

For the hallway and corridor, we recommend providing several scenarios. The most universal ones are maximum overhead light, soft illumination of walls with the ability to adjust the direction (useful for illuminating paintings and other objects) and something point-like. In the hallway, it is very important to carefully consider the lighting of the full-length mirror, avoiding contrasting shadows on the face of the beholder. Sometimes in the morning one of the inhabitants of the apartment wants to quietly get ready and leave without waking up everyone else with the bright light, so a terminal for a small lamp on a table in the hallway would be very useful.

If the corridor is long, then for the convenience of sudden night walks to the toilet or to the refrigerator, you can make lower night lighting, we call it “take-off” - by analogy with a runway. You will get additional comfort if you connect these lamps to a motion sensor: they will turn on softly on their own, illuminate the corridor, indicating the way, and then turn off after some time. The main advantage of such a lighting circuit is invisibility and comfort, because the lamps are close to the floor and therefore do not make a sleepy person squint.

A good idea in the hallway is to think about a place where the Wi-Fi router and other gadgets, such as a NAS drive, will be placed. In this place you need an additional number of sockets and at least an Ethernet cable to connect the smart TV.

Bedroom

In the bedroom, our main recommendation is to use pass-through switches. They are very convenient: you can turn on the light with one switch near the door, and turn it off with another, which is located by the bed. However, you need to ensure that the electrician has connected the wires correctly and that the switches are in agreement with each other in terms of the location of the keys. That is, if you turned on the light at the door of the room by pressing top part switch, then intuitively you will try to press the lower part of the response pass-through switch by the bed. And vice versa, and since pass-through switches do not have a specified switching position, they work like a swing. This small nuance difficult to catch during renovations, but can be very noticeable in everyday life.

Also, when planning a bedroom, we always do a “crib test”, trying to simulate the situation of furniture placement if a baby will also live in the bedroom for some time. Even if you understand that this is not your scenario for the near future, it can be foreseen to make the planning more competent. In addition, perhaps one day this will be appreciated as a plus by potential buyers.

Living room and kitchen

In the living room, as well as in the bedroom, the proper use of pass-through switches is important. We recommend duplicating switches for all circuits near the dining table. This is very convenient: without getting up, you can adjust the light around.

Traditionally, a beautiful lampshade creates coziness and romance over the dining table. To make the light bulb adjustment smoother, use a dimmer. In this case, place the dimmer also at arm's length. Consider seasonal lighting too. For example, determine the place where the Christmas tree will stand and decide where the garland will be included. In this case, it is very good to use sockets that are controlled by a switch.

In the kitchen, try to ensure that the light control unit is located in the kitchen unit area and within the reach of the hostess. If the work surface illumination suddenly becomes insufficient, it should be possible to quickly and easily add an overhead light with one click.

On a kitchen apron you always want to find a middle ground in terms of the number of sockets: on the one hand, to have enough of them for all gadgets, and on the other hand, not to end up with too bulky frame blocks. Our advice is to count the gadgets and add them in reserve. Almost everyone remembers the socket for the kettle and microwave, but recent years household coffee makers came to us, and to them cappuccino makers and coffee grinders. Also multicookers, blenders, bread makers and even yogurt makers. No one knows how many innovations are yet to come, but it would be a good idea to provide sockets for them already at the renovation stage.

Bathroom

Over the years of the Soviet past, we have become accustomed to the fact that bathroom light switches are located outside. This was primarily due to safety reasons, because there could be significant humidity inside the bathroom, which would lead to oxidation of the contacts. Modern switches have become much more technologically advanced, so we recommend placing switches inside the bathroom whenever possible. This way, no one can turn off your lights when you're inside.

We also actively use motion sensors with a 5-7 minute timer for scenarios where someone came in just to quickly wash their hands. Also in the bathroom, cozy light contours at shoulder and floor level always look very interesting - mirror lighting, lamps, floating bathroom lighting near the floor and niches in the walls.

As for sockets: in the modern bathroom near the sink, in addition to toothbrushes, which are often electric, household irrigators have appeared. It would be nice for each device to have its own waterproof socket with a lid, because open tees in the sink area are not a very cool idea.

Wardrobe

If you have a wardrobe, then it is better to provide at least two lighting circuits. One should illuminate the entire space, so it is located quite high. And the second contour should additionally highlight key places, for example a mirror. And, of course, don’t forget about at least one socket: one day it will definitely come in handy.

Children's

The peculiarity of the nursery is that everything changes very quickly in this room. Therefore, we always recommend using many lighting circuits, but not being tied to fixed lamps and sconces on the walls, in order to leave maximum flexibility in the arrangement of furniture. We recommend planning a bank of outlets on each wall and using at least two circuits of outlets connected to switches so that you can get cozy spot lighting almost anywhere in the room.

PHOTOS: cover - Dima Tsyrenshchikov,
1 - shutterstock.com/Photographee.eu, 2 -