Step-by-step instructions for laying a stove for the home. Laying a brick oven with your own hands. Types of furnace designs

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today, there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different energy sources, starting with solid fuel, ending with electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types of stoves can perform a heating function; some models can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some are planned before the house is built, while others need to fit into an existing space. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be constructed from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have greater efficiency (coefficient useful action). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

Ability brick oven“breathing” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at the everyday level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. The home stove provides optimal air humidity, with a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they greatly dry out the air). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency index of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of savings, than modern systems, with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before starting construction, you need to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures; even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of ​​the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
4. Blower;
5. The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room over the entire height;
6. Blower door;
7. Grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Vault of the combustion part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with the nozzle is called the hailo);
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Strangler Pass;
14. Dushnik;
15. Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
18. Exhaust door;
19. Chimney hole;
20. Cover (top of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. Overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, in combination with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. Takeaway metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter period), the solution gets wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thereby transfers less heat load to the ceiling.

The top chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

Its efficient operation will depend on where the stove is installed. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of complete cleaning.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
• There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tile), to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of a regular single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove brick has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish stoves or sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens such temperatures do not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace out of it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to the sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, it is sometimes used in furnace construction. clinker brick. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Medium-fraction quarry sand is used as sand in cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, which will cause the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• Cement;
• Lime;
• Clays;
• Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land after cleaning it first. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries out when exposed to high temperature, but gets wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you cannot lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for masonry chimney. It has the best strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove projects

Stove for a summer residence

Medium sizes country house are about 15-20 sq. m. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made of refractory brick, and the entire body is built of red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and its design includes a bench. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only warms up top part premises. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

• A) heated part;
• B) niche;
• B) pole;
• D) forge;
• D) shower part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on a lime mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove:

If you are planning to build country house, maximally equipped for comfortable stay in it, then it is usually impossible to do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are also suitable for small house, and for the novice stove maker – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.

To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick kilns

The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:

• The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
• In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.

For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.

• The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
• When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of ​​the rooms, but also to their location and the number of external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:

• There is no need to play it safe and choose a massive stove for a small house, since warming it up will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
• Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.

If you plan to save on fuel while receiving high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the stove?

The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.

• If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not touch each other, interior walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
• In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold currents.
• Placement of the furnace hatch close to front door will get rid of excess garbage in living rooms, since you won’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
• The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.

• If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the attic floor beams, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite, or simply sand.
• The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

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Models of simple-designed small brick ovens

Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.

Oven "Krokha"

The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, when correct installation design, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The oven has very small dimensions, only 640×770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.

The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of ​​18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:

The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.

In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.

Up to the stove level, the oven has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under the hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.

According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.

Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.

Compact stove model - “Baby”

The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry it faster. finished design. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.

If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.

First heating finished oven need to be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7–9 days.

After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.

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If you plan to produce decorative finishing the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of operating the stove.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:

• Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
• Embedded in it steel pipe and connecting it to the main chimney;
• An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.

This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.

The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:

To build the Malyshka stove, you will need the following materials and ready-made elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.

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Heating stove with a small footprint

This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building the stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, with the front and rear walls accounting for 210 W, and the side walls accounting for 895 W each.

The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.

The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:

In this case, the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming the entire area of ​​its side walls.

To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:

To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.

Prices for chimney valves

chimney valves

This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed one concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.

• Ruberoid is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, on waterproofing material can be drawn with chalk, using a long ruler, the border of the base.
• When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
• As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
• On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
• On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

• The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
• Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.

• On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
• On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
• The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying

General description and required materials

In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. She is chosen for detailed description, because with its simple design and compact size it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.

This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of ​​up to 30 square meters. m.

The presented version of the “Swedish” was created for certain conditions operation. So, it was created for heating country house, measuring 4000×7000 mm, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.

• Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
• For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
• In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
• In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.

If you decide to use this development, you should first consider the table necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.

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Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:

Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"

Illustration	Description of the work procedure
	The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks should be laid staggered, with overlapping seams.
	On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber begins, which will be located under the oven, and the blower. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of the fireproof material is installed in the first chimney duct. fireclay bricks– in the figure it is highlighted in yellow. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for oven and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For laying this row and interior design niches will require 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks.
	For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed.
	On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to be formed - the internal lining is made of fire-resistant brick, and the external masonry is made of red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks.
	Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step cut out of fireclay bricks along the entire perimeter of the internal space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45x45x1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and generally strengthen the row.
	On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick.
	For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks.
	After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks.
	On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers.
	A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney channel, into which smoke will flow from all other channels. The chimney pipe will be built above it.
	On the 27th row, continuous brickwork is laid on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks.
	Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven.
	The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar.
	The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above.

The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, relieving the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of designs of metal “stove stoves”. Despite this, many summer residents prefer classic version– a heating stove made of brick. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and releases it for a long time, warming the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimal costs for materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for a summer residence.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove maker. In it we will look at several options for simple wood stoves and we'll give practical recommendations according to their masonry.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout diagrams, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to build the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from your future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and use bottled gas or electricity to cook food, then choose an option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a bed.

For regular cooking of large quantities of food and pet food, a simple oven with a hob will be just right.

We will look at three examples of ovens with step by step guide according to their masonry:

• Simple direct flow;
• With hob;
• Heating.

Let’s say right away that you cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design devoid of gas circulation. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of ​​no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct-flow heating design is designed to heat a small room

Such a stove does not require a strong foundation. Having poured large crushed stone in a layer of 15-20 cm, filled it with cement mortar and leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can begin laying.

Stove dimensions in plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the combustion door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the brick laying method.

The procedures for this design are simple. The main condition during work is to ensure that the seams are bandaged so that the top brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a cross-section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After this, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four “three-quarter” bricks. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the oven is raised another five rows (one tier on an edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the very simple version This design has small dimensions (width 2 and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

The work goes smoothly when everything you need is at hand.

Therefore, purchase the following materials and accessories in advance:

• Solid red brick – 107 pcs;
• Blower door – 1 piece;
• Grate – 1 piece;
• Single-burner cast iron stove – 1 piece;
• Fire door – 1 piece;
• Pipe valve – 1 pc.

Fire bricks are not needed for a wood burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, discarding cracked and uneven ones.

Preparation of the solution

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts clay with one part water and adding eight parts sifted sand. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no drips on it. When laying, it should not leak out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the amount of brick. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared masonry mixture, you can begin laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm larger than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of a stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole for the foundation. It is enough to make formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing felt are placed on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, it is given a week to gain strength, after which they begin laying.

The dimensions of the stove with hob we are considering are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Expert advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can begin laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving space for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and put its ends into the seams for better fixation.

The frame of the cast iron door has four holes for wire, which is used for fixing in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with wet asbestos cord.

The third row is laid by overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Order scheme from 1st to 8th row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the ligation of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, which is periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two stands are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving space for the firebox door. In the back of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth to remove any clay protruding from the seams. This is an important condition for ensuring good traction.

Helpful advice! When focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out the bricks.

Order scheme from 9th to 11th row

Having raised the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, placing wire in the seams to secure its frame. At the same level, in the back of the fuel chamber, a brick with a beveled end is placed - a smoke tooth. It improves heat output by preventing flue gases from quickly escaping into the chimney.

Having completed the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along it on a clay mortar. It is necessary for sealing the joints of a cast iron slab and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord soaked in clay.

Rows 12 and 13 - formation of the pipe walls. After they are completed, a lightweight sheet metal pipe is placed on the stove, leading to the roof.

Heating stove

Now let’s see how to build a brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered heating stove option for a country house

Its dimensions:

• width – 2 bricks (51 cm);
• depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
• height – 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction you will need the following materials and accessories:

• Red solid brick – 390 pcs;
• Clay - 9 buckets;
• Sand – 18 buckets;
• Grate (25x40 cm) – 1 piece;
• Fire door (20x30 cm) – 1 piece;
• Blower door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Cleaning door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Gate valve - 1 piece;
• Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) – 1 piece;
• Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) – 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontality using a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. To ensure that they are even, we recommend immediately installing four template posts on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily create ideal angles.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, two bricks with a beveled edge facing into the ash chamber are laid at the end of the furnace. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Order diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

Rows 4 and 5 continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and install a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is installed. At the back of the chamber, beveled bricks are placed to improve traction. The ninth row covers the firebox door.

From rows 10 to 16, the fuel chamber and vertical smoke exhaust duct are being laid. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is installed in the oven.

Rows 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet cloth.

Rows 31-32 form a vault covering the oven.

33 and 34 form the chimney.

Having finished laying, the stove is left for a week with the doors and pipe open to dry. After this, a test fire is made, burning small portions of wood chips, branches or straw.

Even when planning to build our own house, we think about what kind of heating to install in it. After all, the construction of the project will depend on this decision. If there is a heating main near your house and you have received the necessary permission to connect, you can simply do it yourself in the house. For example, when the centralized heating season has not yet begun. And in the absence of central heating, many owners of houses, dachas and cottages are inclined to build a brick stove for their home with their own hands.

Brick kilns have been laid in Russia since ancient times. Masters of stove laying have always been considered respected people. Since not everyone will be able to meet all the requirements for it.

In Russia they have been putting it since ancient times. Masters of stove laying have always been considered respected people. Since not everyone can make a stove with their own hands that meets all the requirements for it. The presence of a brick stove in the house creates a special cozy atmosphere and warms with living warmth.

What types of home stoves are there?

Brick kilns can be divided into the following types:

1. Heating stove. Its functions include heating the entire house or a specific room.
2. Cooking oven. Her task includes preparing food, from drying fruit to boiling cabbage soup.
3. Heating and cooking stove. Combines the two previous types.

A modern type of stove for a home must have the following mandatory qualities - warm, not smoke, be fireproof, create coziness and comfort at home.

Not everyone can do the laying of a stove with their own hands, since this is quite a responsible, labor-intensive task and requires certain knowledge. Of course, a beginner can handle laying a stove with his own hands, but it all depends on his desire and ability.

A lot of useful information You can learn from books, the Internet and consultations with professionals. Having familiarized yourself in detail with the technology of laying a stove, you can easily carry out your plans with your own hands.

Preparatory work

Before laying the stove, it is necessary to determine the location for its installation. Professionals advise those who are laying a stove for the first time to first practice and make a model of the stove.

In the process of this work, it will become clear what masonry is, and if mistakes are made, they will be obvious and can be corrected. It is important that the distance separating the chimney pipe and the roof slab (rafters) is not less than 15 cm. If this rule is followed, you can mark the space allocated for the stove foundation.

It is made in size larger than the main structure of the furnace. To construct a foundation, waterproofing is required. Another rule: when doing masonry, do not forget to constantly monitor its correctness.

Stove walls must be made strictly vertical. Special attention to corners. The rest of the masonry will depend on how correctly you line them up.

To work you will need:

• trowel;
• putty knife;
• level;
• plumb line;
• lacing;
• solution container;
• shovel or hammer drill;
• knitting wire;
• roulette.

Brief description of the methods and order of laying the furnace

The stove masonry may be different types. For example, undercut masonry or masonry with empty seams. Their differences are significant.

With the first method of laying, the finished brick oven is not plastered, since all the seams are filled with mortar. The walls are laid out either as a whole brick or as a half brick.

There is also a 3/4 masonry option.

To lay the furnace, bricks intended specifically for these purposes are used.

Its other name is red, full-bodied. It is not recommended to use used bricks, expanded clay blocks, or slotted bricks.

1. The first row is laid out simply with bricks, without using mortar. After that, the bricks are aligned, the front wall is determined, and the locations of all the doors are determined. After such an estimate, the bricks are laid on the mortar. After this, they move on to laying the corners.
2. Further, following the recommendations experienced craftsmen, you need to complete the entire furnace circuit. Using plumb lines, string is pulled from the corners of the stove to the ceiling. These vertical lines will serve as a good guide in your work.
3. The location of the ash pan, combustion chamber, and ash pan depends on what model of stove is being installed. The blower door is installed after the 3rd row of masonry, and the ash pan is located one row after it.
4. Next is the firebox. The doors are fastened to the masonry using burnt wire. When it comes time to lay the stove vault, it will be necessary to cut the bricks. Here you will need a quality connection. The stove vault is laid after the 2nd row above the fire door.

To line the combustion chamber, a special fire-resistant brick is used. Due to the fact that such bricks and the bricks used for masonry have different temperatures, there should not be a rigid connection between them.

When installing a chimney pipe, it is necessary to have a special valve equipped with a good adjustment system.

Technological procedure for laying a furnace

After the first row is laid, we lay the corner bricks of the 2nd row, checking the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Just like the 1st row, first we lay out the perimeter, only then the middle of the 2nd row.

1. As mentioned above, we first lay out the first brick row without using mortar, taking into account the seams in accordance with the order.
2. Next, we determine the position of the bricks at the corners, lay them on the mortar, checking the horizontal position using a level. Using a mallet, we hammer down the bricks that protrude. After the required horizontalness has been achieved, we perform the first brick row using mortar, do not forget about the level.
3. Using a tape measure, we check the size of the stove in plan and diagonally. A mandatory condition is the equal value of the diagonals in the rectangle. If necessary, you need to knock down the corner bricks until the desired equality is achieved. Now you can lay brick using mortar, the first row, or more precisely, its middle.
4. After the first row is laid, we lay the corner bricks of the 2nd row, checking the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Just like the 1st row, first we lay out the perimeter, only then the middle of the 2nd row. Next, after completing row 2, you need to hammer nails (80-100 mm) into the seam of the corners between rows 1 and 2.
5. Now we lower the plumb line one by one at all corners of the second row and make a mark on the ceiling of the points from which the lowering was carried out. Then we hammer nails of the same length into the marked points, fasten the cord (nylon) and stretch it.

The vertical position of the cords is checked using a plumb line. Elimination of deviations is carried out by bending the upper nails. Thus, you have completed the outline of the future stove in space. All subsequent rows, or rather their verticality, must be controlled using stretched cords. This will significantly reduce the time spent on control.

The laying of subsequent rows is carried out in a similar way, each new row is checked against the order. During the laying process, we clean the internal and external surfaces from excess mortar using a trowel. Every 4-5 rows we wipe the walls of the chimney with a wet rag.

The seams of the stove masonry, or rather their thickness, should be as thin as possible. Thick joints contribute to chipping of the mortar and weakening of the masonry. Filling the joints with mortar should be tight until the excess is squeezed out.

Another rule that must be observed is the rule of tying bricks. It implies that each vertical seam must be covered with bricks from the next row.

Most often, the location of the vertical seam is in the center of the brick lying in the next row. However, it doesn't always work out so well. Sometimes you have to do the masonry, making the overlap not in the center, but less than half of the brick. It is better if this distance is no less than a quarter of the brick length.

If the brick is cut on one side, then it must be laid with this side outside the chimney duct. Since such a surface is weakened, it can quickly collapse under the influence of high temperatures.

The furnace firebox is traditionally laid out with. This is due to the fact that such bricks are more resistant to high temperatures.

You should not bandage the seams of masonry made of fireclay bricks and stove bricks, since they have different coefficients of linear expansion. Either a complete row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the firebox is lined with your own hands. The distance between the lining and the brick must be at least 5 mm.

Before installing the doors in their place, you need to check them for tight fit to the frame door leaf. Also checked are the freedom of rotation of the blade on the hinges, the presence of distortions (or lack thereof), the quality of closing the door, and holes for fastening.

Before installing the doors in their place, you need to check them for tight fit to the door frame. Also checked are the freedom of rotation of the blade on the hinges, the presence of distortions (or lack thereof), the quality of closing the door, and holes for fastening. If any defects are found, they must be eliminated before installation, or the door must be replaced completely.

To perform the installation we use a binding wire. The required length is about 50 cm. It must be inserted into the holes located on the door, and then folded in half and twisted. In the place where the door will be installed, we treat the brickwork with mortar. We install the door, checking the vertical and horizontal position, then fix it with bricks. The ends of the wire are laid in masonry joints.

Installation of the combustion door is similar to the previous option. The difference is that it is wrapped in asbestos.

To prevent the wire from burning out, we secure the upper part of the door with a clamp. It can be made of steel (strip, 25x2.0). The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts.

It will cost less to install a stone stove in your home than to install a stone stove yourself, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If you do not want to build a brick stove or have no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance; the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. The preparatory stage of construction involves the installation of a foundation.

The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of raising heaving soil under the building. Next, a stove is built using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should you use to build brick ovens?

Figure 1. Order of a brick kiln.

You can prepare the mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have a building level on hand for level masonry, since each row must have a flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the stove for masonry, the following should be highlighted:

• sand;
• clay;
• red solid brick;
• roofing felt;
• grate;
• pipe;
• tree;
• gravel;
• cement.

Before laying the furnace, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for constructing a brick furnace, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, they immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used. Typically, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A – spoon row; B – bonded row.

The clay must be softened before use. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. During the preparation of the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace and its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it will lose its properties. beneficial features, therefore the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.

For high-quality masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to do a preliminary placement of bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. All work should be based on reference to the diagram of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully seal each seam.

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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed furnace according to the appropriate finished drawing is laid out on a separately constructed foundation, as noted above. The principle of constructing the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. Pouring the foundation begins with preparing a pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, which can be about 1 meter.

You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand and laying a layer of broken brick or stone on it. The size of this layer should be 15 cm in height, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. To create removable formwork, specially prepared boards nailed together are used. The formwork should be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. The quality level of the concrete pour will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing felt. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the soil should be filled with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.

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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney laying.

Tips for laying a brick stove.

The principle of laying a furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

1. Construction of the foundation slab.
2. Furnace device.
3. Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the order diagram.
4. Grate arrangement.
5. Fitting bricks.
6. Combustion door device.

Among the recommendations for laying a stove in the house there are a number of basic ones. For example, the grate should be mounted in a stove without it resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the stove must be waterproofed. The base of the foundation must protrude at a distance of at least 10 cm. The oven being installed is usually a certain space on the front outer wall of the oven, equipped with a hole for storing equipment.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the back wall of the furnace. If you cover the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed to the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left block is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord at all contact points. Secure the combustion door with three layers of galvanized wire. Avoid the formation of cracks in brickwork Using high quality brick will help.

Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help check the quality of the masonry of brick corners and walls of the future furnace design. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.