How to repair a metal roof. How to repair a metal roof - methods and rules for performing repair work. Causes of roof leaks

In this article we are talking about probably the most simple and uncomplicated type of roof - a roof made of metal sheets. You will learn about the advantages of such a roof and its features. Familiarize yourself with the installation method. The article reveals some tricks and secrets that greatly simplify roofing work with metal sheets, as well as improve the quality of roof installation.
A long and happy life for your home begins with a good, durable roof. This is something you really shouldn’t save on under any circumstances! One of the options for a durable and beautiful (which is also important!) coating is a roof made of sheet steel.

Sheet steel is ideal for covering roofs with complex configurations. At the same time, you should not be afraid that after work there will be a lot of “waste” left - scraps, partially used sheets: all of them can be used to make eaves overhangs, gutters, unds, over-wall gutters, drainpipes, various aprons, etc. For the same purpose, non-standard steel sheets can be used.

When starting work, carefully inspect the sheets of roofing steel on both sides, remove rust with steel brushes, level with a hammer, and only then proceed to marking, trimming and priming. The sheets prepared in this way are combined into “pictures”. If you will use the same parts, do not be lazy to prepare templates. To avoid corrosion, the sheets on both sides are primed with drying oil and kept for 24 hours.

So, the sheets are ready. Let's start preparing the “pictures”.

Before laying, we connect individual sheets with lying folds into strips of several sheets (a fold is a seam that is formed when joining), obtaining a “picture”. We do a recumbent fold like this: we place a sheet with bent corners on a workbench, bend the entire edge 90 degrees and lay it flat. Do not forget to seal the seam after joining the sheets. Upper part The picture of the eaves overhang has a folded fold upward, and the lower part has a drip - a flap lip. From the end edge of the sheet, at a distance of 120 millimeters, we mark a bend line, on which we make cuts on the sides - 4 millimeters on the right and 25 millimeters on the left. Then we bend the edge down by 15 millimeters, turn the sheet over and fold the edge onto the plane of the sheet. We move the sheet so that the edge hangs from the workbench by about 20 millimeters, and bend it down at a right angle. We turn the sheet over again and bend the edge 40 millimeters. We turn it over again and dump the drip onto a plane. The drip tray can have a double bend - although this design is more troublesome, it is more durable and drains water better.

Be especially careful when folding the edges: the joined sheets should form an even row strip. Therefore, first bend the edge at the corners; these bends will keep the sheet from moving during further work. When folding the edge onto a plane, leave a gap of 3 millimeters, so that you can then connect it with the next sheet, sealing the fold with a mallet.

One of the most labor-intensive parts is the collar chimney. So that the result does not disappoint you, do not be too lazy to take the most accurate measurements of the chimney, according to which you make the “cutting”.

The collar consists of a pair of U-shaped parts that are overlapped. All parts can be connected either by double folded seams or by rivet or soldering, which is often used to connect transitions.

When all the parts are ready, you can proceed directly to covering the roof. First, install cornice pins with clamps and T-shaped crutches at a distance of 70 centimeters from each other and 12 centimeters from the edge of the overhang. Between the pin and the crutch - 20-40 centimeters, fastening to the sheathing - with nails and screws. The patterns of eaves overhangs, connected by lying folds, are assembled into blocks, the length of which is equal to the distance between two water intake funnels. The side cuts of the drip edges fit tightly against each other, the blocks of eaves overhangs are pushed onto the crutches so that the strips of the crutches fit into the bend of the drip line. The blocks are connected with folds and secured with nails.

Hooks are nailed perpendicular to the eaves overhang at a distance of 67-73 centimeters, onto which we attach the over-wall gutters. The gutter patterns are connected into blocks by overlapping. To connect to the edge of the covering, the upper edge of the gutters is bent 90 degrees.

The roof is covered starting from the slopes opposite the facade. Front page on pitched roofs– along the pediment, on multi-gable, hip and half-hip – from the beginning of the ridge. The paintings are laid from the overhangs to the ridge.

In strips, paintings are joined with lying seams, and finished strips are joined with standing seams using a comb bender and a mallet. For standing seams on the ridge or on the edges, lay them flat towards the small bend to a length of 10 centimeters (the length of the bends - 30 millimeters and 60 millimeters - is formed when cutting the strips). The strips are attached to the sheathing with clamps, which are nailed to the sheathing after 50-70 centimeters and secured in a standing seam.

The gable overhang of your roof should hang from the sheathing by 40-50 millimeters; it is secured using end clamps every 30-40 centimeters. The connections to the overhead gutters should be made last.

After completing the main work, do not be lazy to carefully inspect the roof again: you need to seal cracks and leaks in the seams with sealants, remove any remaining material and dirt. If you used non-galvanized sheets, then painting is necessary.

The roof is ready - you can live! Everything else can take a long time to do, do and redo - everything, but not the roof! It’s not for nothing that when they want to say that a person has housing, they say: he has a roof over his head!

Call a specialist
to carry out work

Despite the strength metal roofing its operation implies fulfillment repair work, which consists in installing new material on areas of the roof constituting more than 10% of the total area. Even if the installation of a metal roof is done well, at some point something will need to be corrected. Mandatory repair of a metal roof involves installing patches on the roof, eliminating defects in the form of cracks, holes, covering the roof with a paint composition, and replacing individual sections.

Preparation for repair of pitched metal roofing for the implementation of repair activities. The preceding operation for repairing a pitched roof is considered to be preparatory work, including the removal of dust, rust, and any other dirt that may interfere with the organization of repair work. Corrosion damage is cleaned off with a wire brush. Having carefully examined each section of the roof from the attic, you can see holes, the presence of which must be reported to your partner by tapping with a stick. To facilitate repairs, the defective area is marked with chalk.

Same day metal roof leak repair

Metal roof repairs in Moscow and the Moscow region can be ordered from several organizations. It is important to check the company's reputation and read reviews from previous clients. Metal roof leak repairs should be performed by experienced professionals with practical construction skills. If you need to paint the surface of a metal roof, you should study the basic rules that directly affect the durability of the paint coating. The paint layer can be destroyed under the influence of precipitation. You can eliminate the harmful effects of rain and snow by painting the surface of a metal roof evenly and efficiently. Precipitation particles will not linger in uneven areas, freely rolling off the roof.

Metal roof It is considered one of the most durable roofing coverings by definition. When repairing the roof of an apartment building, repair work will not be required soon. Metal roof repairs can be done inexpensively by large organizations.

Metal-based roofing materials are considered the most durable and strong. But even such durable coatings periodically require maintenance and repairs. Depending on the extent of the damage, there may be a need for minor, routine or major repairs. Let’s consider how a metal roof can be repaired and whether it is possible to do the repair work yourself.

Many residential buildings have roofing materials made of metal materials. This can be a seam roof made of galvanized metal sheets, a covering made of corrugated sheets or metal tiles. All of these coatings are certainly reliable and last quite a long time.

But even the most reliable coating fails over time, so it needs periodic monitoring, maintenance and repair. Let's look at how you can repair a metal roof with your own hands.

Damage that can lead to deterioration in the quality of the roof covering

Leaks and other deterioration in performance can result from:

• Violations committed during installation roofing pie or roofing.
• Extreme weather conditions, such as hurricane force winds.
• Emergency mechanical damage, for example, a tree falling on the roof.
• Wear of coatings due to long-term use.

The following damages are most often observed on metal roofs:

• Deformation of coatings caused by mechanical stress.

Advice! Minor deformations of the coating may not be accompanied by the appearance of leaks. But if you do not take measures to eliminate the defect, then over time the situation will worsen.

• The appearance of cracks and other damage to the coating. Typically, the cause of such defects is a violation of installation technology, emergency mechanical damage or settlement of the building.
• Peeling of the polymer coating. Such a defect does not immediately manifest itself as leaks, however, due to the destruction of the protective layer, rust spots appear on the roof, which corrode the metal.
• Leaks at the joints of coatings, most often at the junctions with vertical surfaces. Such a defect may appear due to installation errors or due to aging of the coating.

Roof repair

So that there is no emergency situations, it is recommended to periodically inspect the roof. This will allow you to promptly identify coating defects and immediately get an idea of ​​the upcoming scope of repair work. It is recommended to carry out the procedure during daylight hours, preferably immediately after rain. Inspection of the roof should be carried out from the outside and, if it is not insulated, then from the inside.

Advice! Before carrying out the inspection, it is necessary to clean the roof from dirt and dust.

Current repairs

A repair is called current if up to 15% of the roof covering requires replacement. During the inspection, weak spots on the roof that require repairs should be noted. The repair work itself must be carried out in dry and windless weather.

At the last stage, repairs are made to ventilation and chimney pipes, junction points, including junctions with dormer windows, and gable overhangs. Let's look at how coating defects can be eliminated:

• There are two types of patches used to repair seam roofs. The first type of patches is installed according to the width of the sheets (paintings), if they are damaged. The second type is intermediate patches if defects are found on the ridges of the coating.
• To install the patch, a sheet of metal is used, which should be slightly larger than the defect location. Allowance will be required to make connections. The place of damage should be opened with an envelope, after which a patch is installed, which is connected to the main sheet by forming seam joints. On gentle slopes, it is recommended to strengthen the joints by soldering the seams.
• Before installing the patch, they need to be coated with drying oil, and after attaching the patch, the repaired area is painted roofing paint. It is also necessary to paint the joints.

• Small patches for sealing holes up to 20 cm in diameter can be made from tarpaulin or burlap. To install them, prepare a mixture of drying oil and lead or iron lead. Patches are immersed in the mixture for 15 minutes for impregnation. Then take it out and let it drain excess liquid and apply to the defect site, smoothing it with a hard brush, paying special attention to the edges. After about a week, when the patch has dried, the coating is painted in the place where the repair was made.
• If the defects on the roof have a diameter of less than 3 cm, then repairs can be made without applying patches. To seal the holes, roofing mastic is used, which should be applied on both sides - from the outside and from the attic.
• If there is major damage, patches are not enough; it is necessary to replace the entire element - a steel picture or a sheet of metal tiles. Work on laying a new covering element on the roof is carried out in the same way as installing new coverings.
• During the repair process, it is necessary to carefully inspect the eaves overhangs and straighten areas that have become bent during operation.

Major repairs

Major repairs of the roof covering involve a complete replacement of the covering. The work is carried out like this:

• The old roof covering is dismantled. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws and or straighten the folds.
• The removed material is subject to defect detection; well-preserved parts of the roof covering, in principle, can be reused after trimming the fastening points and cleaning. However, such savings are not always justified; for example, when working with materials that have a polymer coating, it is better not to do this, since they will be noticeably different in color from new ones.
• All layers of the roofing pie are dismantled.
• The rafter system is inspected and, if necessary, repaired.
• All wooden parts of the structure are subjected to fire retardant and antiseptic treatment.
• The roofing pie is being reassembled. A layer of steam, heat and waterproofing is installed.

Advice! When assembling the roofing pie, do not forget about the need to leave ventilation gaps between the layers.

• A new roof covering is being installed and the drainage system is being restored.
• At the last stage of repair, the necessary accessories are installed - fences, snow guards, etc.

So, despite the reliability and strength of metal roofing coverings, you should carefully monitor the condition of the roof structures. At least once a year, preferably in the spring, you need to inspect the roof in order, if necessary, to carry out routine repairs of the metal roof, preventing the formation of serious leaks and emergency situations. Timely elimination of defects will allow you to postpone the time for major repairs.

Roof repair with sheet metal

Roofing iron is another type of rigid roofing, widely used in construction. country houses. This type of roofing has the most venerable age - it has been used for more than one century. But, of course, modern roofing iron is decidedly different from the material originally used. Moreover, every decade more and more advanced varieties appear on the construction market. It is recommended to cover the roof with roofing iron only when the slope slope is 15–30°.

Currently, the most popular materials of this type are galvanized sheet steel and corrugated sheets (multilayer material based on steel with polymer coating). In country construction, sheet iron is usually used. This material is very reliable and relatively inexpensive. The cost of a roof made of sheet iron is less than that of metal tiles. At the same time, it cannot be said that such a roof looks worse. And in terms of durability, with good care, an iron roof is in no way inferior to a metal tile roof.

A complete replacement of a sheet iron roof may not be necessary until several decades after it was installed. Repair usually comes down to eliminating local damage. Let's consider both types of repairs, since the owners country house With a roof made of roofing felt or slate, over time there may be a desire to replace the previous roof with an iron one.

Local repair and maintenance of iron roofing

During measures taken Preventative care for sheet iron roofing will help extend its durability and delay the need for repairs. The main point of prevention is to protect the roof surface from corrosion, which inevitably occurs under the influence of precipitation. For this purpose, the roof is painted with a special anti-corrosion paint. However, you should know that not every paint is suitable for galvanized metal.

The fact is that the properties of galvanized metal differ from ordinary ones. If you paint it with plain oil or alkyd paint, it will react with the zinc, causing it to peel off quickly. A coating of this paint will last no longer than one season. Therefore, it is necessary to choose paints that have greater adhesion and elasticity.

Such paints include, for example, acrylic primer-enamel or other paints with similar characteristics. They are more expensive than regular paints, but they fully pay for themselves. It is better to spend money once on expensive high-quality paint than to repaint the roof or patch new holes in it every year.

When you paint a roof that is no longer new, you first need to assess its condition and repair any existing damage. If there is rust on the surface, it must be washed off with kerosene and then the residue must be cleaned with sandpaper.

It is possible that during the operation of the roof, gaps have formed between the sheets at the points of their connection. In this case, the joints are cleaned of rust in the same way, then wiped with a solution of zinc chloride using a regular paint brush. After this, the joints are sealed with a powerful soldering iron. Excess cooled solder is removed with a file.

If cracks and holes appear in the old roof, they are repaired using patches. The patches are cut from a new sheet of galvanized steel using roofing shears. The size of the patch should be 10–15 cm larger on each side than the size of the damaged area of ​​the roof. The patch is secured by soldering or using some kind of glue or sealant. You should consult a hardware store about which adhesive is best to use for galvanized metal.

If for some reason you do not have a spare sheet of roofing iron on hand for patches, it can be successfully replaced by fiberglass or high-quality roofing felt - such patches are also secured with sealant and serve no worse than metal ones.

After all defects have been eliminated, painting begins. The entire roof surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and old paint using a brush with iron bristles or special liquid products. Then the roof is washed with water, allowed to dry and covered with protective paint in 2-3 layers. It is most convenient to apply the paint with a spray gun, but if you don’t have one, you can use a roller or a large brush.

Installation of sheet iron roofing

It should be noted that this process is quite labor-intensive compared to laying any other roofing material. If you do not have the skills to work with sheet metal, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. If you feel confident in your abilities, use a few recommendations.

Roofing iron does not weigh too much, therefore, as in the case of metal tiles, sparse wooden sheathing in increments of 20–30 cm is suitable here. A waterproofing layer of roofing felt, roofing felt or some other insulating material is laid on the sheathing.

When using sheet iron, it is advisable to minimize the number of joints on the roof, since the joints represent a potential area for leaks and damage. Guided by this rule, the size of the sheets is selected. If the length of the slope is short, it is advisable to use sheets of the same length. If the length of the slope is long, the sheets are chosen in such a way that the number of horizontal rows is minimal (the same as in the case of metal tiles).

There are two ways to lay sheet metal. The first, most simple, is overlapping. The sheets begin to be laid from the eaves. They are attached to the sheathing using roofing screws having a rubber gasket under the cap. Each subsequent sheet is laid overlapping the previous one, the width of the overlap is 5-10 cm. To ensure the reliability of the joint, the overlap area is coated with sealant and laid with a thin rubber tape.

A more complex method of laying roofing iron is folding. This method ensures the highest roof tightness. Folding is the process of fastening adjacent sheets together using specially curved edges. There are 4 types of rebates: single lying, single standing, double lying and double standing.

Lying folds are made at the joint of sheets horizontally (parallel to the cornice), and standing folds are made at the joint vertically (along the slope). Double folds are more reliable.

Let's look at folding technology using the example of a single standing fold. The edge of one sheet is bent upward at a right angle by 3 cm. The edge of the second is similar, but by 7 cm. The sheets are connected and the larger edge is folded onto the smaller one. This operation is performed with all the sheets while still on the ground. Then the sheets are unhooked and lifted onto the roof. There they are fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing and interlocked with a prepared fold. Then the fold is compacted using a mallet and hammer. Seaming requires some experience, so when laying roofing iron with your own hands, you usually choose the first method.