Watering in a greenhouse using. How to make drip irrigation for tomatoes in a greenhouse with your own hands. Irrigation drippers: manufacturing technology

Providing water to plants and plantings is one of the concerns of homeowners. Some water the vegetable beds, some water the flower beds and lawns, and some need to provide water for the garden. In any case, the procedure takes quite a lot of time. But that’s not all: with the usual method, a crust forms on the surface, which prevents plants from developing, so you have to loosen the soil. All these problems can be solved by drip watering the plants. You can buy ready-made kits, order turnkey development and installation, or you can do everything yourself. This article will discuss how to make drip irrigation yourself.

Operating principle and varieties

This technology was tested several decades ago. Its results were so impressive that the system became widespread. The basic idea is that water is supplied to the roots of the plants. There are two ways:

poured onto the surface near the stem;
fed underground into the root formation zone.

The first method is easier to install, the second is more expensive: you need a special hose or drip tape for underground installation, and a decent amount of excavation work. For temperate climates there is not much difference - both methods work well. But in regions with very hot summers, underground installation has shown itself to be better: less water evaporates and more of it gets to the plants.

There are gravity systems - they require a water tank installed at a height of at least 1.5 meters, there are systems with stable pressure. They have a pump and a control group - pressure gauges and valves that create the required force. There is completely. In its simplest form, it is a valve with a timer that opens the water supply for a specified period of time. More sophisticated systems can monitor the flow of each water supply line separately, testing soil moisture and sensing the weather. These systems operate under the guidance of processors; operating modes can be set from the control panel or computer.

Advantages and disadvantages

Drip irrigation has many advantages and all of them are significant:

Labor intensity is significantly reduced. The system can be fully automated, but even in the simplest version, irrigation requires literally a few minutes of your attention.
Reduced water consumption. This happens due to the fact that moisture is supplied only to the roots, other zones are excluded.
Eliminates the need for frequent loosening. With a dosed supply of water to a small area, a crust does not form on the soil; accordingly, it does not need to be broken.
Plants develop better and productivity increases. Due to the fact that water is supplied to one zone, the root system develops in this place. It has a larger number of fine roots, becomes more lumpy, and absorbs moisture faster. All this contributes to rapid growth and more abundant fruiting.
It is possible to organize root feeding. Moreover, fertilizer consumption due to point supply is also minimal.

The economic efficiency of drip irrigation systems has been proven many times, even on an industrial scale. In private greenhouses and vegetable gardens, the effect will be no less significant: the cost of creating the system can be reduced to a small amount, but all the advantages will remain.

There are also disadvantages, but there are very few of them:

For normal operation water filtration required, and these are additional costs. The system can function without filters, but then it is necessary to consider a purge/rinse system to remove blockages.
Drippers become clogged over time and require cleaning or replacement.
If thin-walled tapes are used, they may be damaged by birds, insects or rodents. Places of unplanned water consumption arise.
The device requires an investment of time and money.
Periodic maintenance required— blow out the pipes or clean the droppers, check the fastening of the hoses, change the filters.

As you can see, the list of shortcomings is quite long, but all of them are not very serious. This is a really useful thing in the garden, garden, flower bed or.

Components and layout options

Drip irrigation systems can be organized using any water source. A well, borehole, river, lake, centralized water supply, even rainwater in tanks will do. The main thing is that there is enough water.

A main pipeline is connected to the source, which supplies water to the irrigation site. Then it goes along one side of the irrigated area and is muffled at the end.

Opposite the beds, tees are inserted into the pipeline, to the side outlet of which drip hoses (pipes) or tapes are attached. They have special droppers through which water is supplied to the plants.

It is advisable to install a filter or filter system between the outlet of the source and the first branch onto the bed. They are not needed if the system is powered from the home water supply. If you pump water from a lake, river, rainwater tank, filters are required: there can be a lot of contaminants and the system will clog too often. The types of filters and their number are determined depending on the condition of the water.

Drip hoses

Hoses for drip irrigation are sold in coils from 50 to 1000 meters. They already have built-in water flow points: labyrinths through which water flows before entering the outlet. These oozing hoses provide the same amount of water throughout the entire line, regardless of the terrain. Due to this labyrinth, the flow rate at any irrigation point is almost the same.

They differ in the following characteristics:

- Tube stiffness. Drip hoses can be hard or soft. The soft ones are called tapes, the hard ones are called hoses. Hard ones can be used for up to 10 seasons, soft ones - up to 3-4. Tapes are:
  - Thin-walled - with a wall thickness of 0.1-0.3 mm. They are laid only on the surface, their service life is 1 season.
  - Thick-walled tapes have a wall of 0.31-0.81 mm, service life - up to 3-4 seasons, available for both above-ground and underground installation.

Watering can be organized using tapes or hoses

The maximum length of the irrigation line is determined so that the unevenness of the water output at the beginning and end of the line does not exceed 10-15%. For hoses it can be 1500 meters, for tapes - 600 meters. For private use, such values are not in demand, but it is useful to know)).

Droppers

Sometimes it is more convenient to use droppers rather than tapes. These are separate devices that are inserted into a hole in the hose and through which water is supplied to the root of the plant. They can be installed in arbitrary increments - put several pieces in one place, and then several in another. This is convenient when organizing drip irrigation of shrubs or trees.

There are two types - with standardized (constant) and controlled water release. The body is usually plastic; on one side there is a fitting, which is inserted with force into the hole made in the hose (sometimes rubber rings are used for sealing).

There are also compensated and uncompensated droppers. When using compensated ones at any point in the irrigation line, the water release will be the same (approximately), regardless of the terrain and location (at the beginning or end of the line).

There are also spider-type devices. This is when several thin tubes are connected to one output. This makes it possible to simultaneously water several plants from one water outlet point (the number of droppers is reduced).

Spider-type dripper - you can water several plants from one water distribution point

Main pipes and fittings

When creating a system for laying a main pipeline from a water source to an irrigation zone, plastic pipes and fittings are used from:

polypropylene (PPR);
polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
polyethylene:
- high pressure (HPP);
- low pressure (LPP).

All these pipes tolerate contact with water well, do not corrode, are chemically neutral and do not react to the application of fertilizers. For watering a small greenhouse, vegetable garden, or lawn, a diameter of 32 mm is most often used.

Main pipes are plastic. Choose any specific type: PPR, HDPE, LDPE, PVC

In places where the lines are drained, tees are installed, to the side outlet of which a drip hose or tape is connected. Since they are smaller in diameter, adapters may be needed, and their outer diameter should be equal to the inner diameter of the hose (or be slightly smaller). You can attach tapes/hoses to fittings using metal clamps.

Bends can also be made through special fittings, which are installed in a hole of the required diameter made in the hose (as in the photo above).

Sometimes, after the tee, a tap is installed on each water distribution line, which allows you to turn off the lines. This is convenient if drip irrigation is used for moisture-loving plants and those that do not like excess water.

If you don’t feel like choosing components and selecting sizes and diameters of fittings, you can buy ready-made ones from various manufacturers.

Do-it-yourself drip irrigation: examples of devices

There are many options for designing the system - it easily adapts to any conditions. Most often the question arises about how to organize watering independent of electricity. This can be done if you install a sufficiently large water container at a height of at least 1.5 meters. This creates a minimum pressure of approximately 0.2 atm. It is enough to water a small area of a vegetable garden or garden.

Water can be supplied to the container from a water supply system, pumped by a pump, drained from roofs, or even poured into buckets. A tap is made at the bottom of the container, to which the main pipeline is connected. Next, the system is standard: a filter (or a cascade of filters) is installed on the pipeline up to the first branch on the irrigation line, and then there is distribution to the beds.

For the convenience of introducing fertilizers on the highway, it is possible to install a special unit. In the simplest case, as in the photo above, it can be a container on legs, in the bottom of which a hole is made and a hose is inserted. A shut-off valve (faucet) is also needed. This cuts into the pipeline through a tee.

If necessary, you can water both shrubs and fruit trees. The whole difference is that the tape or hose is laid around the trunk at some distance. One line is allocated for each tree; bushes can be watered several times on one line. Only in this case you need to use a regular hose into which to insert droppers with the required water flow.

If low pressure in the system does not suit you, you can install (see photo below) or a full-fledged one on the main water supply. They will provide water even to far-flung areas.

Can water be supplied directly from the source? It is possible, but not advisable. And this is not due to technical difficulties - there are not many of them, but to the fact that plants do not like cold water. That is why most small-scale drip irrigation systems - for greenhouses, vegetable gardens, orchards and vineyards - use storage tanks. The water is heated in them and then distributed throughout the area.

Drip irrigation: how to calculate the system

There can be one container from which water is supplied to the system - common, as in the picture above, or separate for each section. If there is a significant distance between irrigation objects, this may be more profitable than pulling a main pipeline.

The required volume is calculated depending on the number of plants and the volume of water for their normal development. How much water is needed to water vegetables depends on the climate and soil. On average, you can take 1 liter per plant, 5 liters for bushes and 10 liters for trees. But this is the same as the “average temperature in the hospital,” although it is suitable for approximate calculations. You count the number of plants, multiply by the consumption per day, and add everything up. Add 20-25% of the reserve to the resulting figure and you know the required volume of capacity.

There are no problems with calculating the length of the main line and drip hoses. The main line is the distance from the tap on the tank to the ground, then along the ground to the watering site, and then along the end side of the beds. By adding up all these lengths, the required length of the main pipeline is obtained. The length of the tubes depends on the length of the beds and on whether water will be distributed to one or two rows from one tube (for example, using spider drippers you can distribute water for two to four rows at the same time).

The number of tees or fittings and taps (if you install them) is determined by the number of pipes. For each branch using tees, take three clamps: press the hose to the fitting.

The most difficult and expensive part is the filters. If water is pumped from an open source - a lake or river - you first need a coarse filter - gravel. Then there should be fine filters. Their type and quantity depend on the condition of the water. When using water from a well or a well, you do not need to install a coarse filter: primary filtration occurs on the suction hose (if used). In general, there are as many cases as there are solutions, but filters are needed, otherwise the droppers will quickly clog.

Homemade drip hoses and droppers

One of the most significant costs when constructing a system from ready-made components yourself is droppers or drip tapes. They, of course, provide the same amount of water throughout and the flow rate is stable, but in small areas this is not necessary. You can regulate the supply and flow rate using taps built into the beginning of the irrigation line. Therefore, there are many ideas that allow you to distribute water to plants using ordinary hoses. Watch one of them in the video.

It is difficult to call this system drip irrigation. This is more of a root watering: water is supplied in a stream under the root, but it works, perhaps only a little worse and is more suitable for plants with a root system developed deeper. This method will be good for trees, fruit bushes, and grapes. They require a significant amount of water, which must go deep into a decent distance, and this homemade drip irrigation system can provide this.

In the second video, real drip irrigation is organized. This was done using medical droppers. If you have the opportunity to stock up on used material, it will turn out to be very cheap.

The amount of water supplied is controlled by a wheel. From one hose you can supply water to three or four rows - if you take a hose of sufficient diameter, you can connect not three devices to it, but more. The length of the tubes from the drippers allows watering two rows on each side. So the costs will really be small.

Droppers can be used almost without modification. This is the case if the system had a bag. An example is in the photo.

Waste into income - watering for young plants is provided

It is almost also possible to do drip irrigation for house plants. It is suitable for those flowers that love constant moisture.

Constantly moistening your flowers on the balcony? Easily! Watering from a drip

The cheapest drip irrigation: from plastic bottles

There is the cheapest and fastest way to organize water supply to plants without hoses and large containers. You will only need plastic bottles and small lengths - 10-15 cm - thin tubes.

Partially cut off the bottom of the bottles. So that you get a lid from the bottom. This way the water will not evaporate. But you can cut off the bottom completely. At a distance of 7-8 cm from the cap, make a hole in the bottle into which a thin tube is inserted at a slight angle. Bury the bottle with the cork down or tie it to a peg, and stick the peg into the ground next to the plant, pointing the tube towards the root. If there is water in the bottle, it will run down the tube and drip under the plant.

The same design can be made by turning the bottle upside down. But this option is less convenient: it is more difficult to pour water, you will need a watering can. What this looks like, see the figure below.

As you can see, there is a second option for drip irrigation from plastic bottles. A wire is stretched over the bed, and bottles with holes in the bottom or lid are tied to it.

There is another photo option for using bottles, but with standard droppers for watering. They are fixed to the neck of the bottles and in this form are installed under the bush.

This option, of course, is not ideal, but it will give the plants the opportunity to develop better if you can rarely visit the dacha. And two liters from a bottle can be decisive in the battle for the harvest.

An automatic irrigation system for a greenhouse provides plants with moisture at all times. At the same time, the daily labor-intensive process of caring for plantings is simplified. The owner of a greenhouse can purchase an automatic watering system at a gardening store, but it is more practical to make it yourself.

Types of automatic irrigation systems and their design

There are three types of automatic watering systems that you can create yourself: subsoil, drip and rain. Any of the options is suitable both for providing moisture to the greenhouse and for irrigating beds in open ground. Each type has its own design and operational features, advantages and disadvantages.

Drip

This variety is considered the most economical and progressive for growing greenhouse crops. It was invented by agronomists from Israel to achieve high yields when water resources are scarce. Such a system can operate both from power supply and in autonomous mode.

The operation of automatic watering is simple: moisture is directed from the source through pipelines to tapes with droppers. Small drops of water moisten the root system of each plant. Additionally, liquid fertilizer is delivered to the plantings along highways.

A pipeline from the source delivers water to moisturize the root system

Advantages of the drip system:

low water pressure (saving up to 30% compared to conventional irrigation);
“targeted” delivery of moisture and fertilizers to each bush, which prevents the spread of weeds;
rare loosening due to the absence of caked crust on the soil.

If there is a timer and controller, the system will work completely automatically, and water will be supplied at the right time.

It’s easy to create such a system with your own hands, and to save money, use medical droppers instead of special dispensers.

The disadvantages of the drip device include the requirement for water purity. A filter must be installed here. Otherwise, particles of silt will settle on the walls of the pipes, which will quickly render the irrigation system unusable.

Sprinkling

Typically, such systems are used for irrigating flower beds and lawns, but it is possible to install a similar structure in a greenhouse. It is suitable for watering vegetable crops and not too delicate flowers.

The process of supplying moisture is reminiscent of artificial rain. Water under pressure gushes out of the sprinkler nozzles, breaks up into drops and falls onto the soil and plant bushes. Sprinklers are located at ground level or mounted under the roof of the greenhouse.

Sprinkler nozzles crush water into droplets, simulating rain

The advantages of a sprinkler system include:

uniform distribution of water and penetration of moisture to the required depth, which does not allow the root system of plants to rot;
increasing the vital activity of beneficial microorganisms in the soil;
creating a microclimate that is comfortable for greenhouse crops;
ability to cover large areas.

Sprinkling reduces the temperature in the greenhouse, which prevents moisture evaporation on hot days.

The sprinkler irrigation method also has its disadvantages:

risk of excess moisture in the greenhouse;
sunburn on plant leaves on clear days (especially on delicate flower petals);
the need to shake off drops of water from each bush;
inefficient use of water due to evaporation before reaching the soil;
impossibility of using the device for applying fertilizers.

Such an installation requires high water pressure, which creates additional installation difficulties.

Ideally, for greenhouses, a sprinkler system should be used in conjunction with a drip or subsoil system.

There are fewer disadvantages to an aerosol sprinkler system. In this case, the holes in the sprayers are smaller, which avoids large drops that burn the plants in sunny weather. But here you definitely need a powerful engine and high-quality lines, because the pressure of water to push through the tiny holes of the nozzles must be strong. So, the pressure in the pipeline should reach 30–50 bar.

When installing aerosol self-watering yourself, you can use deluge sprayers to automatically extinguish fires.

Underground (intrasoil) irrigation

The design of such a watering device is similar to a drip system. But the highways are laid underground so that the moisture reaches the very roots of the greenhouse “inhabitants”. Water from a storage tank or water supply system enters humidifiers - perforated pipes. At home, they are replaced with plastic bottles with holes in the bottom.

The mains of the subsoil system are laid underground

This device allows perennial, as well as capricious and sensitive crops to develop effectively.

The advantages of subsurface irrigation do not end there. These include:

additional aeration of the earth;
simplicity and low cost of installation;
low water consumption;
stable humidity of the greenhouse atmosphere.

The system can be fully automated or operate in semi-automatic mode, when the main tank or even embedded humidifiers are filled with water manually.

The disadvantages include:

If installed incorrectly, the soil may become oversaturated with water, leading to rotting of the roots;
moisture deficiency, in which green spaces wither and dry out.

Necessary materials and tools for installation

First of all, it is a source of moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of connecting to a water supply system, drawing water from an open reservoir or installing a large storage tank with regular replenishment.

Most installations use:

hoses and polymer pipes;
watering devices (dispensers, sprayers);
various fittings (connecting elements, taps, valves, plugs).

Instead of taps, you can install solenoid valves. They are regulated by additional devices - a controller and a timer. In this case, the water supply and shutdown will occur automatically, at the time set by the owner of the greenhouse.

Some systems operate autonomously, but most require the pumping equipment to be connected to the mains. The control unit will help to fully automate the system. But it’s difficult to make it yourself; you’ll need to spend money on purchasing it.

How to make a watering system for a greenhouse with your own hands

Proper watering in a greenhouse is not difficult to implement. All you need is to correctly select all the required tools and materials and follow the step-by-step instructions.

Drip irrigation system

Here, water from a container or water supply system flows to the watering point through the main pipe, which has outlets. The materials for the system are calculated and cut in the workshop, and installation and connection are done in the greenhouse.

You need to find a place for water storage in or near the greenhouse. Its height position must be at least 200 cm above ground level. This is enough to water about fifty square meters. A container for a greenhouse of this area should have a volume of 1 cubic meter. Or ensure the supply of water from an open source, a central water supply.

To install the device you will need the following materials:

plastic hoses with a cross section of 8 mm;
fitting parts (angles, tees, crosses, plugs). Elements with installed cones at the connection points can be easily connected to hoses without the use of specialized tools. At the same time, they calmly maintain pressure up to three atmospheres;
unit for adding fertilizer compounds;
devices for reducing pressure - anti-drainage valves, reducers, mini-taps. They are necessary for uniform distribution of moisture in the system;
drip tubes for delivering water from the pipeline to the roots of plants. Labyrinth-type devices evenly distribute water in three to five directions;
control device with timer. It will open and close the tap on the main water supply at the right time.

The drip irrigation system requires the installation of a cleaning filter. Otherwise, the main and drip pipes will quickly become clogged. When using a natural reservoir or plumbing system as a source of moisture, a two-stage filter is required.

Tools you will need:

drill and drill bits of the required diameter;
pliers;
awl;
measuring tool (tape);
pipe and hose cutter.

To calculate the number of irrigation pipes, the following formula is used: Lt = Sk * 10000 / L, where Lt is the need for an irrigation pipe (m), Sk is the area of the ridge, L is the distance between irrigation pipes. The resulting figure should be used as a starting point when calculating the number of necessary locking and connecting elements.

It is important to take into account the daily water requirements of different crops. The most popular ones for growing in greenhouses are cucumbers, tomatoes, different varieties of lettuce and cabbage. The first crop requires 2 liters of water per bush daily, leafy vegetables - 2.5 liters, tomatoes - 1.5 liters. The drippers must be placed at a distance of 0.3 m from each other to achieve the best watering, while the soil is moistened in one to two hours.

Before purchasing and installing, be sure to make a scaled drawing of the future system. This way you will immediately see how the lines and droppers will be located, and calculate how many and what parts will be required for the device.

After this, you can begin manufacturing the pipeline, assembling the system and installing:

To install the droppers, we drill holes in the tubes in the right places, checking the drawing. The diameter of the holes needs to be made a little smaller to secure the droppers more tightly: otherwise they will be squeezed out by the pressure of water. After drilling all the holes, insert droppers into them. The free ends of the hoses need to be plugged; the easiest way is to bend them and secure them with wire. If you don’t have time and finances allow, you can purchase a ready-made watering tape with droppers.
Watering tapes are laid along the beds
We lay the main pipe across the beds and connect watering tapes to it through fitting connections. The interface between the dropper and the tube should be left at the top. We close the ends of the drip lines with plugs or flush taps.
Watering tapes are attached to the main pipe using fittings
We install the filter, and immediately after it a controller with a timer and pressure-reducing devices and connect the structure to the pump.
To prevent the system pipes from becoming clogged, it is necessary to install a cleaning filter.
After installation, we check the system for leaks. Turn on the pump at full power and open all the taps alternately. The leak will definitely make itself known. It can be eliminated by tightening the threaded connections.

Video: Installation of a drip installation in 15 minutes

Sprinkler system

The difference between drip and rain irrigation designs lies in the method of supplying water to greenhouse crops. Drip devices are replaced by nozzles that spray water around themselves within a certain radius. The location of the pipeline for the rainwater irrigation system can be arranged not on the ground, but above the ridges - under the roof of the greenhouse.

What you will need to create your own installation:

storage tank (if the system is not connected to the water supply);
pump equipment;
water supply distribution and irrigation pipes or hoses;
sprinkler nozzles;
fitting;
filter.

If desired, you can install a control device with a timer to automatically connect water from the water supply lines.

Tools you will need:

wrenches and adjustable wrenches;
soldering iron for propylene pipes (if fittings are not used);
pipe cutter.

When calculating the length of pipes and the number of sprinklers, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the greenhouse and the location of the nozzles themselves. They should be positioned in relation to each other so that during operation the jets cover the non-irrigated zones. To accurately calculate everything, make a large-scale design drawing before purchasing materials.

Further assembly of the system will not be difficult:

We install a storage tank. There is no need to raise it too much - a pump is used to pump out water and create the required pressure. We sequentially install pumping equipment, a tap for manually shutting off the water, a filter and a timer at the outlet pipe.
Installation of a storage tank for a sprinkler system
We lay the main pipe. When installing it above the beds, make sure that all connections are securely fastened. We do not lose sight of the compensation loop - it is necessary so that temperature changes do not affect the operation of the system. We close the free pipe outlets with plugs and drill holes for installing spray nozzles.
Holes for injectors are drilled in the main pipe
We install sprayers. We measure the distance between them, taking into account the minimum radius of water supply.
When installing nozzles, take into account the irrigation radius
We test run the system manually. If there are no leaks or other defects, we set the frequency and duration of watering on the controller or timer.
When starting the sprinkler system for the first time, check it for leaks.

It is important to remember: small drops falling with less intensity do not destroy the soil, allow moisture to be better absorbed, and create aeration conditions when watering.

The best rain intensity is 0.06–0.15 mm/min. The droplet size should be no more than 0.2 cm.

Excessive force and power of artificial rain damages plantings. This especially harms young plants and seedlings. Large drops bend the leaves to the ground, as a result of which they become dirty and do not participate in photosynthesis. To create normal watering conditions, reduce the water pressure or reduce the size of the sprayer outlet by placing a washer with a smaller hole in the nozzle.

Video: How to install a simple sprinkler system yourself

How to arrange subsurface irrigation

To install such an installation, you will need polyethylene pipes with a cross-section of 3–4 cm. Holes with a diameter of 0.2 cm are drilled into them every 30 cm or slots 0.8 cm long and 0.2 cm wide are cut. To avoid clogging of the watering elements, a filter must be installed.

The minimum set of tools will include a shovel, a pipe cutter and a set of keys for installing connecting elements.

How to install a simple structure for underground irrigation with your own hands:

Place a large tank of water on a pedestal above ground level, this helps create pressure for water supply.
To create pressure to supply water, the tank must be installed at an elevated position
Dig trenches for the pipeline 0.25 m deep along the racks and line them with polyethylene tapes about 20 cm wide. They are necessary so that the water does not quickly go deep into the ground and better diverges in the horizontal direction. This is especially important for loose soils in the greenhouse.
Trenches for the subsurface irrigation pipeline must be 25 cm deep
Lay humidifier tubes with a slope so that water displaces air. If the width of the ridges does not exceed 80 cm, one humidifier is enough. Otherwise, you will need two with a gap between them of 50–80 cm. If you grow moisture-loving crops, then the required distance between devices should be no more than half a meter.
To ensure that water displaces air, the system pipes are laid at an angle
Connect the humidifiers to the container using hoses or pipes. After a couple of days, dig up the soil between the humidifiers and check whether the moisture is well distributed. If not, you need to reduce the space between them.

In greenhouse structures, underground pipelines are used not only for irrigation, but also as local heating. Heating is usually carried out by supplying warm water. It contributes to the complete regulation of temperature in the greenhouse, insulation of the surface layer of air and, thanks to this, prevents the plantings from freezing.

Video: Master class on installing a subsurface irrigation system

Plastic bottles are sometimes used as humidification devices. To do this, drill a hole in the lid and tightly insert a flexible pipe with a cross-section of 10–15 mm into it. Water will be supplied through it. There is an easier option - cut off the neck of the bottle for convenient pouring of water in portions.

After this, two or three small holes are created in the bottom of the bottle to transfer the liquid into the soil and it is dug into the ground. Such humidifiers do not require financial costs. But they are suitable for small greenhouses due to the complexity of filling them with water.

Video: A simple method of root watering using plastic containers

Is it necessary to clean during the cold season?

The drainage and drip system in unheated greenhouses must be prepared for the winter season. If this is not done, the water in the pipeline or hoses will freeze and they will become deformed.

How to properly prepare your automatic watering system for winter:

Shut off the water supply from the source and empty the storage tank.
To allow any remaining moisture to drain out, you need to open the taps and remove the plugs.
In a drip installation, remove the drip pegs from the soil.
If possible, it is worth blowing the main pipes with a compressor through a temporary fitting. This will rid the system of residual moisture and possible contamination. Don't forget to wear safety glasses.
In areas with harsh climates, the hoses should be disconnected and stored in a warm room until spring.

There is no need to perform these procedures in heated greenhouses, because they operate all year round. When subsurface irrigation is used, dismantling is also not carried out - the earth will protect the pipes from frost. For insulation, you can cover the areas where the pipeline runs with non-woven materials. In addition, in such systems, heating is often combined with humidification of the ground - warm water is supplied in cold weather.

Proper installation, maintenance and care will ensure the long life of any automatic irrigation system. On average it will last 7–8 years.

Issues of optimizing the production of agricultural crops are relevant both for large enterprises in the industry and for owners of private plots growing products for personal consumption. One of the most important points that allows you to significantly save resources is watering. Drip irrigation in a greenhouse will allow you to use moisture much more efficiently. In addition to saving expensive resources, this method will help ensure automatic feeding of plants, which will have a better impact on the quality of the final product.

Benefits of drip irrigation

The easiest way to deliver water to the plants is by diverting it into the channels between the beds, but this is an extremely uneconomical method. Sprinkling technology also has its disadvantages. When growing some crops, it is undesirable for water droplets to fall on the fruits and leaves. The liquid that gets on the leaves works like a magnifying glass, burning out the plant cells, spoiling the appearance of the product. The drip irrigation system for the greenhouse does not have these disadvantages.

The effectiveness of the method encourages greenhouse owners to pay close attention to it, since it makes it possible to optimize the process of growing the desired crops, while having significant advantages:

save water;
increase the efficiency of fertilizers used;
improve the quality of manufactured products;
increase productivity;
deliver water directly to the root system without loss;
reduce the risk of disease;
maintain air circulation in the soil;
significantly reduce the possibility of weed growth.

Benefits of drip irrigation

Additional advantages of the method include the ability to control humidity in the greenhouse. This is especially true when growing crops that do not tolerate high humidity, which is inevitable with sprinkling and regular watering.

Note! The tube system is located directly at the roots of the plants and the area of moisture evaporation is minimal. The greenhouse air will not be excessively humid.

Operating principle of the drip irrigation method

The system can be connected to a water supply main or to a storage tank, for example, an ordinary barrel. The tube system is formed individually, depending on the location of the beds and the crop being grown. The holes are made in close proximity to the root system. Therefore, it is necessary to plan all work from the design stage. It is important to know: what types of crops will be grown in the greenhouse, at what distance from each other the plants will be planted, and how much water they need. The data will make it possible to correctly select the diameters of the pipe and holes for irrigation, and the laying route.

Designing a greenhouse drip irrigation system

Despite the apparent simplicity and cheapness of the method, it requires the fulfillment of certain standards, non-compliance with which will not bring the desired result. Design an irrigation system for a greenhouse based on the following data:

total area for installation;
method of water supply;
proposed crops to be grown;
features of equipment for drip irrigation;
a method of monitoring and managing the system.

Calculate the number of plants that need irrigation over the entire area of the greenhouse. Then the volume of daily water consumption is determined. This must be done according to the average values recommended for each type of crop. Draw up a diagram of the location of watering points. So for tomatoes, the daily water consumption is 1.5 liters. Cucumbers require more - 2 liters. To water cabbage, you need 2.5 liters per day. The distance between bushes is determined by the variety and type of plant and can range from 20 to 50 cm.

Designing a greenhouse drip irrigation system

Simple arithmetic operations will help determine the number of watering points. Owners build small structures on their plots. Plants do not need a large amount of water; it is enough to organize drip irrigation for the greenhouse from an ordinary barrel. That is, there are about 100 seedlings on the cultivated area. If the area is designed for 200-300 plants, then you need to accumulate 400-600 liters for daily watering; accordingly, you need to install 2-3 standard 200 liter barrels, or make a container of the required volume. When connecting the system to a centralized main, it is necessary to install special controllers that guarantee the specified pressure, the exact time of watering, and the amount of moisture supplied.

Equipment and components for drip irrigation installation

The market offers a range of products for installing drip irrigation. You can choose either a ready-to-install kit or purchase all the components separately in the required quantity. However, with small volumes of plants, you can take the advice of savvy craftsmen and organize watering from plastic bottles - everything ingenious is simple. Water is absorbed by gravity into the soil as it flows. A good method for growing in pots, small individual boxes and containers, which can be located not only in greenhouses, but also in the house. For suspended structures, a medical IV kit is sometimes used.

A complete water supply system is assembled from elements intended for this purpose, or replaced with similar ones used in assembling water supply routes, for example, polypropylene fittings, shut-off valves. PVC products are widely used - they are inexpensive and durable. For small outlets, a dropper is often used, which has high-quality, elastic tubes.

The commercially available plastic kit consists of:

drip tape;
connecting elements (connectors) with seals;
filter;
shut-off and control valves;
fittings;
repair kit.

Additional equipment includes a timer for controlling watering time and a pump if you need to fill the container from a well, borehole, or natural source of water supply. A special controller for connecting the system is available for sale. A pipe is connected to it and the shut-off mechanism is activated according to a given program, opening the water at a given time for the required number of minutes or hours. The device is extremely useful if it is impossible to constantly be nearby and control the watering regime. Human participation in plant care is minimal in this case.

Water source for drip irrigation system

Small greenhouses with an area of 10-12 m² can be equipped with a gravity principle device. The circuit is simple, without a pump or automation devices. It is important to pour water into the storage container on time. It can be filled from a natural source: lake, river, spring. You can use liquid from a well, temporary accumulation of melt water, rain water. However, these sources cannot be a guarantee for greenhouses that plan to use as a business, even a small one.

Centralized routes can provide a stable water supply for large irrigation areas. Connection to them is coordinated with the relevant services. Control over the consumption of water resources today is tightened and large consumption requires permission from federal services. The need to save money is forcing entrepreneurs today to actively switch to the drip irrigation method, using centralized utility lines.

Starting a drip irrigation system

Before starting operation, all structural elements are tested. When supplying water, measure its flow rate and the timing of the timer on the controller. Check the pipes for possible leaks and water losses. If no shortcomings are identified, you can safely connect the system. During use, it is necessary to regularly inspect all elements of the irrigation structure.

Note! The microclimate created in the greenhouse is softer than natural and the equipment, with sufficient care, can operate for many years.

It is safe to say that a greenhouse with drip irrigation is more effective than a conventional one. For some crops, the increase in productivity can be up to 200%, so installing equipment for this method of irrigation is justified in every sense. For example, high-tech agriculture in Israel, a country where there is practically no water or land, provides the population with its own products all year round. Almost 100% of crops are irrigated using the drip method. The export of vegetables, fruits and berries to European and Asian countries is increasing from year to year. By using the method wisely in favorable Russian conditions, you can achieve outstanding results. A small greenhouse can “feed a family” and, if desired, become a tool for running a successful business.

At the moment, there are 3 automatic crop irrigation systems in greenhouses - subsoil system, drip irrigation and sprinkling system. Details below.

You need to install automatic sprayers before planting plants in the ground (you can learn more about this system by watching a video tutorial on the manufacturer’s website). The garden hose must be routed through the center of the greenhouse, and the required number of branches for watering must be made, based on the size of the greenhouse. Then the sprayers are installed; you can use either a home-made version or a ready-made purchased one. Purchased ones are better to use, and some models include a built-in system for controlling spray and water pressure, they are not of the underground type, they are mounted at a distance of 80 cm above the ground, but the height can be adjusted depending on the height of the plants.

If the sprayer is placed at a height of more than 2 m, this can lead to the death of young shoots.

The drip irrigation design is installed in a greenhouse with a large area. There are various methods of supplying moisture to the root system. You can also install this system manually, but it will cost more than a rain system.

The kit is mounted like this:

Take a large container for water, for example a tank.
Installed at a height of 1 m from the ground at the entrance to the greenhouse.
The source for this system can be a water supply or a well, from which the main distribution pipe is taken.
An irrigation pipe is mounted to the latter; the number of these pipes depends on the number of beds.
Small diameter nozzles are attached to the main pipeline.

At the end, attach the drip tape to the main irrigation pipe. Installation of the drip system is complete. You can organize any irrigation system with your own hands.

Optimal watering of greenhouse beds

Each period of plant development requires its own amount of moisture. The greatest peak of need occurs at the moment of seed germination. A large amount of moisture is required for seedling growth and rooting. Soil moisture should be at least 60%. When watering, the entire volume of soil should be taken into account, and not just its upper surface. With insufficient watering, the soil dries out, and with excessive watering it leads to rotting of the plants, so moisture must be maintained at a depth of 50 cm. The water temperature should not be lower than room temperature, 23–25 °C. Under no circumstances should you water with cold water, this can lead to root rot and, in hot weather, cause shock.

There are watering rules:

At the initial stage of plant growth, it is enough to take care of moistening the root layer of soil, but without allowing waterlogging;
When watering disease-prone and self-pollinating plants, you need to make sure that moisture does not fall on them;
If watering plants is done with a hose, you need to correctly calculate so that the stream is not strong, so as not to wash out the plant’s horse system;
The irrigation rate and quantity should be reduced in cloudy weather;
Irrigation water should not contain harmful impurities.

It is necessary to check that the water does not contain phenol compounds, various impurities and organic acids. Vegetables die with high levels of various impurities, and with a high iron content, there is a risk of burning and browning of plants.

Growing in late spring, summer, at high temperatures and low humidity requires cooling and adequate watering, and, in contrast, requires minimal irrigation in early spring, winter and in cloudy weather, especially fog. The temperature should not be allowed to drop, as this will lead to the death of the plants.

The maximum rate in summer is about 10-12 l/m2, in winter – 5 l/m2.

The rate of watering depends on the plant itself; this must be taken into account when sowing mixed. The peculiarity of greenhouse soil also plays a special role; if light soils are characterized by frequent watering with low rates, then heavy soil needs rare watering in large portions. The timing of watering is determined by the appearance of the plant, soil moisture to the touch, a physiological method for determining the concentration of cell sap, and a laboratory method. The amount of moisture can be determined by the appearance of the plants and the color of their leaves. If there is not enough moisture, they take on a darker color.

How to properly feed seedlings in a greenhouse

Seedlings in a greenhouse are fed using the root method; fertilizers are dissolved in water for irrigation or poured dry onto the ground. This is the most universal method of complementary feeding, but there is also a foliar method, with the help of which plants are fertilized by spraying. To use, you need to know whether such a system is suitable for a given plant. Every plant needs fertilizer, which includes organic and mineral components. In order for the harvest to be of high quality, the seedlings need to be fed.

Plants most often need:

Azote (watered with chicken droppings);
Phosphorus (an artificial type of fertilizer);
Potassium (an artificial type of fertilizer).

Perforated greenhouse tape and polyvinyl chloride binko film allow fertilizer to penetrate into the root system of plants. They also help maintain a special microclimate in the greenhouse and heat, and also protect (if closed tightly) plants from adverse external factors, which allows the plants to receive more nutrients and moisture.

A greenhouse or greenhouse has its own microclimate, which is easily controlled, making it very convenient to grow plants. After all, you don’t have to worry about the seedlings being damaged by sudden temperature changes or unplanned precipitation.

Watering rules:

Young seedlings are watered often, but moderately, and adult plants are watered abundantly, but rarely;
A ripe crop needs frequent watering so that it does not need moisture;
When the leaves curl, the seedlings need to be watered, and if cracks appear on the seedlings, watering should be reduced;
The heifer needs regular ventilation to avoid creating a greenhouse effect, which has a detrimental effect on plantings;
It is necessary to take into account plant options; some are watered at the root.

To ensure ideal watering, a drip irrigation system is installed. Depending on the seedlings, watering is done several times a week. It is necessary to adjust the depth of watering. The soil must be moistened at least 60%; this is easy to check. If a lump of earth easily sticks together in your hand and then crumbles, then the moisture is normal.

What is the best watering for a greenhouse?

Sprinkler irrigation is carried out from above or below. The best option is considered to be an overhead piping system. This type of irrigation has a small number of pipes for strong water pressure. Sprayers are installed permanently or can be rotated; they ensure optimal distribution of moisture throughout the greenhouse.

The system has disadvantages:

If moisture gets on the leaves of a plant on a sunny day, a burn may occur;
After watering is completed, it is necessary to remove moisture from the leaves of each plant, which makes the watering process more labor-intensive;
Each branched system requires high water pressure, which entails careful installation of expensive pipes;
Some of the water evaporates before it reaches the root system, resulting in inefficient water use.

This irrigation scheme is the most labor-intensive to install; it also requires constant monitoring and significant knowledge in land reclamation. Such a system is necessary for growing certain cultivated plants that do not tolerate high humidity.

Watering a greenhouse (video)

In conclusion, it is worth noting that with properly selected and adjusted watering, caring for any plants will not only be carefree, but also effective, and the plants will be rewarded with a high yield.

Drip irrigation has many advantages over sprinkling. The most important thing is that it makes caring for plants much easier. Automation of the process allows you to dose water in accordance with the needs of each type of crop grown in the greenhouse. All this together ensures increased productivity.

What is a drip irrigation system

Water can be given to plants in different ways. This is watering using a hose or watering can, automated sprinkler systems. All these methods have several disadvantages:

What kind of watering do you choose for your beds?

DripManual

Drops and jets of water falling from above inevitably compact the top layer of soil, so it is necessary to regularly loosen it.
A significant part of the liquid remains on the leaves and fruits, evaporates and, as a result, the level of air humidity increases. There is a need to ventilate the greenhouse more often.
With an abundance of green mass, insufficient water reaches the roots.

The use of a drip irrigation system for a greenhouse frees you from all these disadvantages and hassles. With its help, a targeted supply of water to the roots of plants is carried out. This irrigation method was developed in the middle of the last century. Over decades of practical use it has proven its benefits.

Benefits of drip irrigation

Before deciding to install an automated irrigation system, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with all its advantages.

Reducing labor costs for plant care.
Minimizing the risk of soil waterlogging.
Convenient supply of mineral fertilizers: in the form of an aqueous solution.
Rational use of water.
Watering large areas with minimal financial and labor costs.
Reducing production costs.

Drip irrigation is beneficial in all respects. Including the fact that it is possible to construct the system with your own hands.

Types of drip irrigation systems

You can construct a drip irrigation system yourself from individual components or use a ready-made solution from garden equipment manufacturers. In any case, it is necessary to know what types of systems exist, how they function and are automated. There are several types of structures available from ready-made solutions.

T-Tape

It's inexpensive and simple. It is a complex of thin hoses that supply water to the plants. The disadvantage of the system is the need to purchase an additional filter, otherwise the tubes will soon fill with debris and impurities.

The factory filter offered by the system manufacturers costs almost as much as the system itself. But summer residents have found a way out: they are replacing it with inexpensive and accessible devices:

5-micron osmotic filter (100-120 rubles);
plastic bottle filled with sand, nylon and synthetic padding tapes (free).

With PVC hose

Structurally, such a system is a thick hose laid between the beds, from which thin droppers extend in both directions. This is a profitable and reliable solution with a long service life.

The only drawback of such systems is the significant consumption of water to fill all its components: hoses and droppers.

Tape with “labyrinth” type channels

In the construction of systems of this type, drip tapes are used, inside of which there are partitions that form a kind of labyrinth. This provides two important benefits:

pressure equalization;
supplying water in drops rather than streams.

Average fluid consumption is 2-4 l/hour. The design of such a system is simple. You will need:

a container installed at a height of 100-150 cm or a central water supply with a pressure of no more than 2 atmospheres;
plastic fittings for organizing wiring;
clamps for fixing to pegs and other supports;
a ball valve that opens and shuts off the water supply.

All elements, except the container, are included in the system package. It provides stable watering of plants without electricity and additional equipment for stabilizing pressure.

With rubber compensator

The design of this system is similar to the previous one, with the only difference being that a rubber compensator is installed at the connection point to the container. Its task is to equalize the pressure.

Automated systems

The simplest automatic drip irrigation systems consist of several elements:

water container;
pump;
hoses (plumbing hoses);
emitter, labyrinth or slot drip tapes with a diameter of 22 or 16 mm;
filter.

More complex ones added:

sensors;
timer;
controller;
heating elements.

Knowing the design of an automatic drip irrigation system, you can assemble it yourself from scrap materials and factory components. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the best offers from garden equipment manufacturers.

AquaDusya

The AquaDusya system was developed in Belarus, has several modifications, and has proven itself on the positive side. Designed for autonomous full-cycle irrigation. Systems with a similar design, but larger and consisting of different materials, are used in agriculture to irrigate large areas.

The lineup:

“AquaDusya Start LCD” – automatic;
“AquaDusya Start for 50 plants” – semi-automatic;
“AquaDusya +60” – semi-automatic;
“AquaDusya WATER TAR for 60 plants” – automatic;
“AquaDusya +12” – semi-automatic.

The principle of design and operation of automated systems

A pump is installed in the container. There is no need to make a hole in the wall of the barrel: you can throw the hose over the side.
Drip tapes are laid on the site.
Water is poured into the barrel through a filter using buckets or from a water supply. Filling control is carried out using a float.
The required irrigation program is selected, and the automation unit is installed in any convenient place.
The device supplies water in the specified mode.

Other popular systems:

"A drop";
"Smart watering can";
"Spring";
"Dewdrop";
"Water strider";
"Harvest 1";
"Signor Tomato."

In order to assemble a drip irrigation system yourself, you need to select components, calculate the power, and install automation.

Video review: kit for drip irrigation system

Design

The first step in independently installing drip irrigation in a greenhouse is drawing up a planting plan. You need to draw up a drawing by hand indicating the size of the beds and row spacing, and the distances between seedlings.

For some crops, it will be necessary to create subsystems, since these plants need more abundant watering.

The daily amount of water is calculated based on the following standards for 1 bush:

tomatoes – 1.5 l/day;
cucumbers – 2 l/day;
cabbage – 2.5 l/day;
greens – 1.5 l/day.

The design indicates the location of the nozzles, the interval between which should correspond to the distance between the plants. Optimal values:

tomatoes – 30 cm;
cucumbers – 20 cm;
cabbage – 40 cm.

Nozzles come in different capacities. If you take a device capable of supplying 1.15 l/hour, then the crop watering time will be:

tomatoes – 1 hour 20 minutes per day;
cucumbers – 2 l;
cabbage – 2 s 10 min.

Based on the project, a calculation is made of the total amount of water required for the stable functioning of the system.

Equipment selection

The drip irrigation line consists of two main elements:

central hose;
branches from it in the form of drip tubes or ribbons.

The hose is chosen with a cross section of 10-15 mm, made of polyethylene or PVC. It is desirable that it be black, which minimizes the risk of algae and microorganisms growing inside it. If you do not plan to use automation to create optimal pressure in the system, it is recommended to cut the hoses into 6 m lengths. A small cross-section will ensure slow water movement and stable pressure.

Ribbons

An integral part of the system is the drip tape. This is a tube with holes located at a certain distance. Depending on the type of holes (slotted, emitters, nozzles), tape types are distinguished. Emitter ones are the most advantageous, since the channel system in them guarantees protection against clogging. There are two types of these tapes:

compensated;
uncompensated.

The difference is that the former provide strictly dosed watering regardless of the slope or bend of the main line. Those who are not compensated have uncontrolled water consumption: in lower areas, watering will be more abundant.

Regardless of the type, the tapes differ in diameter and wall thickness. In this regard, they have different performance characteristics. When choosing, they are guided by the rule: the thicker the walls of the tube, the longer it will last.

Features of operation of belts with different wall thicknesses:

0.125 mm. Recommended for drip irrigation of plants with rapid maturation. Used for one season, easily damaged by sharp objects.
0.15-0.2 mm. It is most in demand due to its low price and sufficient resistance to mechanical stress. Not recommended for use on rocky soils.
0.25-0.3 mm. It can be used in difficult conditions, with the risk of damage from machinery and due to the high traffic flow of the greenhouse (when it is serviced by a large number of people).
0.375 mm. Thick-walled, resistant to animal bites.

Fitting

In order to assemble drip irrigation systems in a greenhouse with your own hands, you will need connecting elements - fittings. This general name hides a wide range of products:

mini starters;
starters;
starters with rubber seal;
starters with pressure;
end caps;
tees;
clamping squares;
adapters;
repair connectors.

Fittings and their quantity are selected in accordance with the diagram drawn up at the design stage.

Cranes

There are several types of taps for installing a drip irrigation system in a greenhouse:

Filters

Filters are necessary to prevent clogging of the outlet nozzle of the main line and eliminate various impurities in the water.

There are three types of this equipment:

simple garden;
self-cleaning;
with pressure reducer.

According to design features they are divided into:

disk;
mesh.

The former are optimal for installation in systems that draw water from a centralized water supply system, well or well. Disk ones are more reliable and efficient, recommended for complex systems. The main criterion for choosing a filter is throughput. This indicator depends on the design power of the system.

Automation

The main element of the design of automatic drip irrigation is the controller. It is this that ensures the execution of the given mode and the efficiency of the system as a whole. There are many types of controllers, with different sets of functions. This equipment can be simple, aimed only at opening and closing the outlet valves. Or providing full control, including pump operation, lighting, and filter washing. The choice of automation is determined by the needs of the greenhouse owner and the complexity of the pipeline.

For simple systems with no more than 6 irrigation lines, a semiconductor controller is suitable with the following functions:

2 control modes;
remote control with 6 buttons;
built-in protection against power surges;
storing the specified irrigation program in memory for 24 hours after a power outage.

System installation

Installation of drip irrigation from a water supply system consists of several stages:

Install the central pipe or hose.
Using fittings, lines from drip tapes are installed.
Turn off the water supply to the water supply.
The water supply and the hose of the irrigation system are connected through the squeegee.
Install a timer and a check valve (optional).
Install the filter.
Automation is connected.

Installation of the simplest system requires a water tank located at a height of 1-1.5 m. Usually a 200-liter barrel is used. If it is not possible to install it on a hill, a pump is connected to ensure pressure in the line.

It’s easy to make a drip irrigation system for a greenhouse yourself. It is important to design it correctly, select the necessary equipment and assemble it into a single structure.