How to make paneled doors. Paneled doors - step-by-step instructions for making them yourself. Windows and doors: all topics

Paneled canvases are becoming popular. Almost anyone can make them at home. To ensure that the material chosen for the job is not wasted, think through the subtleties that the door will have, including even minor details.

Product selection

Peculiarities

Before you start designing a door, thoroughly understand its structure. Find out what features it has. The main difference between such doors is the presence of inserts that make the product sophisticated and elegant.

Attention! Due to the fact that special technology is used in the production process, the door becomes not only reliable, but also elegant.

Installation and its varieties:

• A blank sheet made of plywood. It consists of elements made from sheets of plywood, fixed inside with self-tapping screws;

• With glass inserts. Glass inserts are used to fill the canvas. The canvas looks decorative and is light in weight.

• Made of wood. This design is considered durable and reliable. The insert in this case is made from thin wooden sheets, but it should be noted that this way the production costs a large sum of money.

The technological manufacturing process is that the frame and insert are connected to each other. This is done using special fastenings with glazing beads. Manufacturing also involves other types of fastenings.

Tools and materials needed during the work process

In order for the door manufacturing process to be carried out correctly, theoretical knowledge will be required, as well as materials for the work.

To work you need:

1. A hacksaw, which is used to work on wooden material;
2. Screwdrivers of different diameters;
3. A simple pencil and tape measure for measuring;
4. Fine to medium sandpaper.

Before you start work, you should clearly decide on the material from which the door will be made. For strength, you need high-quality wood species that have high resistance to any factors. Oak or ash are perfect for work. In addition, production can be made from pine. This material is also of high quality and low cost.

The panel is often made from plywood, due to which the final structure has insignificant mass and low cost. To achieve decorative qualities, use glass inserts.

Important! If you use frosted or additionally decorated glass to decorate your door, this will transform your home as a whole.

Materials for work:

• Initially, a frame is manufactured, for which boards of sufficient thickness are used;
• Plywood for panels. During operation, this element can be replaced with glass. If you initially plan to use glass, consider having glazing beads;
• To make the initial preparation, glue and screws are used;
• Door fittings;
• Materials used for finishing painting.

Step by step instructions

First of all, measure the doorway. Build a box using a wooden beam. Currently, all blanks are sold on the construction market. This way you will save time and money.

Once the box is in place, fix it in the required position. To do this, the structure must be accurately measured.

Panel and its production

If the work is supposed to be done from an array, then you need to start preparing sheets according to pre-made measurements. To make the assembly process easier, use the tongue-and-groove connection method.

Attention! If the workpieces are connected using glazing beads, then the assembly sequence will not matter at all.

If the door is equipped with glass inserts, then for a beautiful appearance many designers recommend using colored glass or one that is additionally decorated with film. In addition, if you use, for example, stained glass, the design can fit perfectly into absolutely any interior.

Benefits of DIY

If during the renovation process you and your whole family decided to install doors, this does not mean that you should go to the store to buy the finished product. For those who have at least some skills in home craftsmanship, it will not be difficult for them to do it themselves, without resorting to outside help build it.

Let's look at the advantages of making it yourself:

• Price. By making it yourself, you will save a significant amount of money compared to ready-made option presented in the store;
• At self-installation there is no need to make additional adjustments, since the measurements taken will initially come to the rescue;
• The paneled version of the installation differs from its analogues mainly in that it is less exposed to external influences and is practically unaffected by various temperature indicators.

Help with decoration

After making the door, the last stage is decoration. Such manipulations are carried out not only for aesthetic reasons, but also in order to enhance the strength and reliability of the canvas. When using natural wood, the surface is covered with stain or varnish. With the help of such impregnation, a film is created that protects the material. The varnish also protects the finished product from high humidity.

In addition to these types of processing, you can use a paint coating, for example, in some neutral or, on the contrary, extraordinary color (if the interior requires it). If this option is not suitable, then it is possible to finish it with veneer or, for example, decorative film.

The option of creating a contrast between the door and the panel is often used. That is, you can paint the vertical and transverse planks, and decorate the existing inserts with an unusual pattern or paint them in a different color scheme.

If you pay attention to the presence of glass, you can also decorate it yourself. For this purpose special decorative materials. You can create a unique design or an unusual stained glass window. If you wish, you can depict family photographs or other pictures you like that bring positive emotions every day.

Making beautiful doors yourself is easy and without the help of qualified specialists. They will have not only a functional character, but also a decorative one, as they will express the individuality of their owner. In addition, you will be able to show not only your true skills, but also please your entire family and friends.

And see how the manufacturing process takes place and all its details in our video. You can take more useful information from it.

Doors are made from boards, furniture panels or beams according to pre-prepared drawings. To understand what and how wooden doors are made of, let’s get acquainted with their varieties.

Types of doors by design

A solid wood box has the following advantages:

At the same time, wooden canvas has the following features:

• unprocessed raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
• presence of cracks and knots;
• flammability.

To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnations.

Massive doors

Before making wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the features of the production process. The dacha can be protected from robbers by a massive canvas, for the manufacture of which thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards are used. The resulting structure is strengthened with horizontal or inclined jumpers.

To make a massive entrance door, cedar, larch or oak are used. This type of wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.

If the project summer cottage includes a bathhouse, then linden and pine are used to arrange the opening. The bathhouse must be used after treating the wood with an antiseptic.

Paneled doors

To make paneled fabric, boards and beams are used, obtained by gluing lamellas. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before constructing the canvas, a drawing is prepared. It indicates the configuration of the panels. It can be the same or different. Instead of wooden elements glass can be used.

To equip the vertical and transverse elements, you will need to glue the timber. To make the canvas, a floorboard of appropriate thickness is used. To fix individual elements, spikes are used.

If a panel is used to make the canvas, you need to consider:

• The reliability of the product is directly affected by the number of cross-sections;
• a homemade box is formed from timber, and a lath or plastic is used to make a panel;
• glazing bead is used to fix panels.

Since the paneled door is thin, it is considered the best option to arrange an interior doorway.

Panel doors

The panel box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. Fibreboard, MDF or chipboard sheets are used as a shield.

The canvases under consideration are classified into the following types:

• solid - filled with beams fastened together;
• hollow - made from side and transverse beams. Lining is used for cladding;
• small-hollow - have different fillings.

To create a high-quality canvas yourself, the frame is first covered with plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. Size of 1 layer – 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating.

Tools for work

Tools you will need:

• to create grooves and holes, you will need a router;
• hacksaw;
• to sand the ends of the doors, you will need a plane;
• chisels;
• hammer;
• screwdriver

To assemble the doors you will need the following materials:

• tongue and groove boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue.

The purchased wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Selection of lumber

Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan for the upcoming work is drawn up. Particular attention is paid to the selection of boards. The following criteria are taken into account:

• financial capabilities;
• acquisition of “industrial wood”;
• residual humidity – 15%;
• checking the evenness of the material;
• board thickness – 25-50 mm;
• the array is polished.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Any step-by-step plan for manufacturing a door involves assembling a shield. If it is planned to install the linen in the bath, then easy assembly shield To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. A warm box for the home is made taking into account aesthetics. The assembled shield is polished.

Making a door from solid wood

The step-by-step canvas assembly plan includes right choice consumables. To make a shield, you will need tongue and groove boards more than 25 mm thick. Then the consumable material is cut into pieces.

When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. To connect tongue and groove boards, a tongue-and-groove lock and wood glue are used. If the consumable material is non-grooved boards, then they are assembled using glue.

The work is carried out on a large surface area. The assembled coating is pressed with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is processed with a milling cutter. To ensure good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble a shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.

For tying, crossbars are used, installed at the top, middle and bottom of the covering. Markings for grooves are made on the canvas. The recesses made should be ½ the thickness of the consumable material.

Holes are cut using a router. More difficult to cut grooves manually. For this you will need a chisel. A rubber hammer is used to insert the cross member. If you plan to apply a drawing to the resulting shield, first draw its outline using a pencil according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.

Then the canvas is painted with pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Markings are made on the canvas and the box for installing hinges. The markings for the handle and lock are done in the same way. The last stage is hanging the canvas into the opening.

Manufacturing of a panel door

The instructions for making a shield sheet allow you to use finely filled boards. Experts distinguish 3 methods for assembling such a structure:

• preliminary assembly of the frame with subsequent filling of its internal space. Using this technology, you can create a solid or finely filled shield;
• separate production of the shield with its subsequent fixation into the frame. The last stage is covering with finishing material;
• The manufactured shield is mounted in a frame and lined.

To assemble the canvas using the first method, primary tying is carried out. It will determine the size of the future door. The structure uses timber with a cross section of 30×120 mm. Consumables are cut to fit the dimensions of the future structure.

The next step is choosing the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the “half-tree” method. Accurate marking of future grooves is an important stage in shield assembly.

All grooves are coated with glue. The connection of the timber is carried out on a flat but large area. If the glue has dried, the connections are fixed with dowels. To do this, make through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

Plywood or fiberboard is used to cover the frame. The markings are made and the frame is removed. The frame returns to its original place. It must be pressed against the facing material treated with glue.

MDF is used to fill the interior space. It is glued to the bottom sheet of finishing material. But first the glue must dry well. At the same time, it is recommended to prepare consumables for the outer lining of the canvas.

If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or SF. The resulting structure is sent under the press.

You can sheathe the door with natural wooden slats. They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface is dry, it is treated with sandpaper. All corners and ends are processed with a milling cutter. Into the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in a corresponding frame.

A frame door is made using a similar technique - the internal space is additionally reinforced with beams. But before starting work, accurate calculations are carried out and a drawing is prepared.

Making a paneled door

To make a paneled door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. Components structures are made of plywood and solid boards. A drawing is pre-prepared, on which 4 panels are marked.

The frame is made of timber. It is pre-processed with a milling cutter. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Tenons are cut out on the crossbars, and the edges are processed with a router. Panels and mullions are inserted into the grooves.

The end part of the coating, which will extend to the end of the canvas, must be flat. Slots are made in the vertical elements to assemble the structure.

To make panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some panel elements are replaced with glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat surface are mounted and framed with glazing beads.

Otherwise, the panels are processed with a router. In this way a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used to make panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic and dried.

All parts are assembled into a single structure on a flat surface, and each spike is coated with special glue. Step by step assembly doors:

• gluing crossbars into the grooves of vertical bars;
• installation of mullions;
• installation of the remaining panels;
• gluing vertical beams;
• fixing glazing beads for finishing.

To install the tenons into the grooves, use a rubberized hammer. The canvas is padded from the sides. A construction angle is used to check corners. The covering is compressed with clamps.

Markings are made on the canvas for installing hinges and a handle with a lock. Installation of fittings is carried out after completion of finishing work. For finishing, acrylic paint is used. To obtain a dark finish, stain is used.

Insulation and sound insulation

Painting

At the next stage, the finished structure is processed and decorated. It is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

• processing the coating with sandpaper or a grinding machine;
• impregnation of wood with antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. The processing is then repeated;
• the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each applied layer must dry well. This will take about 2 days;
• Paint, varnish, and stain are used to finish the coating. The stain must be applied over the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the appropriate number of layers of stain is applied. Each layer will take 4 hours to dry. To fix the result, the stain is coated with two layers of varnish.

Making wooden windows with your own hands in the photo

Windows must be sealed and in winter reliably protect the room from dampness, wind, etc. Therefore, all cracks and holes in the windows must be carefully sealed. If homemade windows are installed, where the glass is attached to the frames with nails, they should be sealed with putty, as well as all the cracks between the frame and the window sashes - this will make wooden windows last longer. In addition, reliable waterproofing will protect the entire structure from dampness and destruction.

To prevent windows from fogging, the frames must be tightly fitted to the sashes, and the dimensions of the glass must strictly correspond to the dimensions of the frames.

In harsh winter conditions, it is better to use double or even triple glazing. Double-glazed windows must be very tight, and summer time For good ventilation you can simply tear them off completely or use windows.

As for the front door, it must open outward. This general requirement to all rooms in the plan fire safety. The front door can be on any side, but it is better if it is located opposite the barbecue or stove - this will make it more convenient to bring in firewood or coal and monitor the firebox.

The door, like the windows, must be tightly fitted to the door frame without gaps. To prevent the door from sticking in the frame when opening, you need to equip it with special overhead seals.

The work of making wooden windows with your own hands requires precision and accuracy. Window profile has a rather complex configuration, so all its parts must be made with exact dimensions, otherwise the window will not be airtight.

At home, you can make a simple version of the window. To make wooden windows, you will need spliced ​​boards, and in order to avoid warping and deformation of the window during operation, they must be well dried. First of all, a window frame is made, which is attached to the window opening, and then a window frame with glass already inserted is attached to it.

To make a window frame you will need wooden blocks 5 X 15 cm, for the frame - 5 x 5 cm bars. The dimensions of the box and frame depend on the selected dimensions of the window opening. The following is a presentation of the technology for manufacturing wooden windows, which will allow you to quickly and easily master this production process.

When making a box, you need to select a groove on the block, and its end should take the shape of the letter “G”. For a board measuring 5 x 15 cm, the length of the groove should be 13 cm and the depth - 1.5 cm. As a result of selecting the groove, you should get a ridge that will allow the window to close tightly. Next, 4 parts for the window frame are cut out of the boards with a groove, observing the exact dimensions. These parts are fastened together using a dovetail joint.

To make the joint more rigid, you can drill a hole in its end and insert a wooden pin, previously coated with glue, into it. Metal window corners at the ends of the box will further strengthen the fastening.

Then, according to the same scheme as the box, the window frame is made. Here, to make the connection more reliable, you will need a pin and an angle. Since the window frame is a moving element and will be constantly closed and opened, it must be especially strong.

During production window frame It is important to pay special attention to the end part of the bar. To do this, in its lower part you need to make a groove 2 cm wide and 1.5 cm deep, which will respond to the window frame. Depending on the number of glasses inserted into the frame, there may be 1-2 upper grooves. For a bar 5 X 5 cm, the width of the upper grooves should be 1.4 cm and the depth 1 cm. In this case, you will need a glazing bead with a cross section of 1 X 1 cm with a glass thickness of 0.4 cm.

The profile for the window frame is made using an electric planer or a hand cutter. It needs to be cut into pieces to mount the frame, the dimensions of which should take into account a gap of 1-2 mm between the frame and the box.

Watch the production video wooden window so that all stages of assembling this structure become clear:

Note!

The finished parts of the structure are connected to each other with a tenon, after which the glass is fastened using glazing beads, and the hinges are screwed to the frame and onto the box. All wooden parts of the window must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, and when it is mounted, coated with varnish or paint and allowed to dry.

Technological process and technology for making a paneled door with your own hands (step-by-step video)

Wooden doors are paneled, panel, with keys and solid (made of solid wood). The simplest option wooden door- with dowels - can be done by any beginner who has no skills in working with wood. Making paneled doors with your own hands is the primary skill of anyone involved in country house construction.

Such a door is made of boards that are fastened together with dowels - transverse bars that can be placed horizontally in the structure or in the form of the letter “Z”. To make the door more durable, quarter- or half-board grooves are made in its leaf, in which dowels are also installed. Doors of this type are often installed in various utility rooms, including in closed summer kitchens. They are quite durable and reliable, and at the same time, making them with your own hands is not so difficult.

The manufacturing technology of paneled doors means that they are made from a frame and panel strips sewn onto it, which are attached to each other and to the frame by a tongue-and-groove connection system. The frame is usually made of wood, and the panels can be made of wood, glass, etc. Since the door will be an entrance door, and therefore must protect the room from adverse weather factors, glass, like other materials, must be impact-resistant and resistant to mechanical stress and atmospheric phenomena.

For the manufacture of panel doors, not only wood is used, but also boards - chipboard, fibreboard, MDF. The slabs, cut to specified dimensions, are then simply sheathed around the perimeter with wooden planks to strengthen the door structure and insulate it. In addition, the base of the sheet with slats can be sheathed on top with plywood and then finished with veneer.

The panel door can be made on the basis of a frame made of beams. For greater structural rigidity, the frame must be reinforced with three transverse ribs, and then the voids must be filled with fine-mesh material made from paper or cardboard honeycombs. The finished door is additionally sheathed with plywood and veneer.

The most expensive doors are those made from solid wood, i.e. a single piece of wood. The technological difficulty lies in the fact that to make doors with a standard width of 90 cm, you need to have a tree with a trunk of no less diameter. Since this is not always possible, and the cost of the material is quite high.

To make the cost of doors more “democratic”, the modern furniture industry uses a method of making them from solid wood based on glued material. In this case, not only the price becomes more affordable, but the doors also become more practical. For the manufacture of this material, beech, cherry, oak, walnut, ash, etc. wood is used. However, the manufacture of such doors requires the use of high technology, which is only possible in a factory environment.

The technological process for manufacturing a paneled door allows you to produce required quantity units of production in artisanal conditions. This is a fairly simple door to make, which can be easily made with my own hands for "homemade" summer kitchen. As an example, we will consider a door insulated on one side. It will be possible to additionally engage in its design, and then, in addition to its main function, it will also perform a decorative one, especially if the design of the door and kitchen is in the same style.

Standard size door frame 200 x 90 cm, the dimensions of the door leaf are 192 x 82 cm. To make the door you will need 5 x 11 cm boards, as well as 5 panels made of solid wood or laminated veneer lumber. The first step is making the door frame. To do this, you need to saw off two sidewalls 192 cm long and two crossbars 72 cm long, taking into account 5-6 cm for the tongue-and-groove connection when choosing the width of the sidewalls. It is necessary to cut grooves and tenons on the blanks and, by connecting the finished parts on them, assemble the frame.

To enhance the strength of the door structure, you need to drill holes in the vertical sides for dowels, which should pass through the tenons of the crossbars. Then, using a cutter, you need to cut grooves on the frame canvas for mounting the panels and make the panels themselves, preferably from solid pieces of wood, so that the front side of the door looks more attractive. The finished panels are inserted into the door frame so that on the reverse side they are flush with it. This is important because on this side the door will be sheathed with a fiberboard sheet, which should fit snugly against the door leaf. The fiberboard sheet can be nailed to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.

Watch the production of panel doors in the video, which shows all the production operations:

When all the details door block ready, you can start assembling it. First, a wooden frame is installed in the doorway and tightly nailed or screwed to its sides. Then, on one of the side surfaces of the box, flat grooves of the same size as the hinges are selected, the depth of which is equal to the thickness of the hinges. The hinges are inserted into these grooves and screwed with self-tapping screws, and the door is hung on them. You also need to select a groove for the lock latch in the box, and install a lock and handle on the door. This must be done very carefully so that the door does not jam and it closes and opens freely. Lastly, the door needs to be painted or coated with clear varnish in 2-3 layers to highlight the texture of the wood and protect the wood from moisture, temperature changes, fungal damage, insects, etc.

Make the production of panel doors simple step by step video It will only help if you carefully study it and analyze it in all stages:

Expert advice

The flooring in the kitchen must be non-slip. This can be a wooden floor made of boards 20-30 mm thick, coated with varnish or paint, which is an excellent alternative to parquet. If such a floor does not suit you, you can lay linoleum on top of the boards with a pattern that imitates, for example, marble tiles or valuable wood species.

Practical non-slip floor tiles with a high coefficient of friction or special ones will look no less interesting in the design of a summer kitchen. natural stone for the floor. Since in the kitchen there is quite a high probability of accidentally slipping and getting injured due to water or fat spilled during cooking, you can use special tiles with an anti-slip fine-grained surface or rubber tiles, which has a pleasant rough and elastic surface, eliminating this possibility. The same tiles can be used to lay the path from the house to the kitchen and, in general, all the paths on the site.

The basis of a paneled door is a frame made of smooth and dry boards 30-54 mm thick, assembled into a tenon. As a rule, 54 mm thick trim is used only for doors with a height of 2300 mm, entrance doors from the staircase to the apartment and external doors (Fig. 26, a). The width of the strapping boards is 90-150 mm. To facilitate the design, the harness can be assembled from two frames (external and internal), covered with fiberboard or plywood (Fig. 26, b). In this case, the elements of the outer and inner frames must be connected to each other using glue and dowels.

How to make paneled doors with your own hands - video

Rice. 26. Frame door trim design: a - solid, b - lightweight slatted

Panels are inserted and secured into the trim windows, which are made either flat or with figured decorative recesses (figares). A decorative overlay can be attached to the base of the flat panel, which can be additionally trimmed along the edges with slats. Panels of the so-called classic type made from planed and press-glued boards of the same thickness as the strapping. The panels are attached to the frame with wooden slats or corners, as well as in a tongue and groove. In the first case, a quarter can be selected in the binding, and then the panels are secured with a glazing bead on only one side; in the second, the edges of the panel are folded so that the narrow ridge fits into the groove of the binding. The frame can be smooth, then the edging slats are stuffed on both sides. In this case, a regular overhead fillet may move due to shrinkage of the canvas, and Unpainted stripes will appear on the painted surface. This can be avoided if you use a wide convex plinth, which is overlapped on the frame (Fig. 27).

Rice. 27. Installation of panels: a - fastening with a wide convex plinth overlapping
on the harness, b - fastening with a narrow plinth; c - fastening the glass with a square:
1 - door frame; 2 - glass; 3 - square; 4 - nail; 5 - hammer; 6 - gasket

Instead of wooden panels, glass can be installed in the doors. Installing glass in door windows is somewhat different from glazing conventional windows. Typically, glass in a door frame is secured not with glazing beads in the folds, but with the help of wooden (sometimes plastic) angles (Fig. 27, c). This method of fastening, among other things, allows you to hide the untreated surface of the inner frame. After making the squares of the required size, they are installed in place without glass. This is necessary to check that the gap width and glass thickness match.
First, attach the angles to one side of the door. Nails without heads are recessed into the body of the corners. You can lubricate the inner surface of the angles with glue. Then the door is turned over and glass is installed. The glass in the frame must be fixed using glued wood chips or putty. The putty is prepared from wood sawdust mixed with PVA glue. After fixing the glass, install the angles on the other side.

When driving nails into squares, special care must be taken. To protect the glass from scratches, a sheet of cardboard or veneer is placed between the glass and the hammer, along which the hammer is moved. Recess the nails into the body of the square by 0.5-1 mm using a flat-blade screwdriver. The door remains in a horizontal position for 2-3 hours until the glue dries completely.

Door with panel edging with glazing beads

First, calculate the dimensions of the door and make a drawing of it. They start by measuring the doorway: width - from one side trim to the other, height - from the top trim to the finished floor. The obtained values ​​determine the dimensions of the door parts. Assembled door adjusted to the opening after manufacturing.

In the picture shown rice. 28 doors with four panels, the width of the upper crossbar should be 120mm, the lock - 200mm, the bottom - 250mm, the longitudinal links - 120mm, the mullions - 115mm. With these dimensions, a door handle can be installed on the longitudinal link at a distance of 70mm from its edge.

Rice. 28. Door with edged panels: a - general view; 6 - panel sealing;
c - top view; d - jig for dowels: 1 - upper cross member; 2 - stand;
3 - upper middle; 4 - lock cross member; 5 - lower cross member;
6 - dowels 12 x 100 mm; 7 - sockets for dowels; 8 - lower middle; 9 - panel;
10 - glazing bead; 11 - panel ridge; 12 - gap 3 mm; 13 - cord made of insulating foam;
14 - door frame; 15 - clamp; 16 - wall; 17 - platband; 18 - jamb;
19 - cheeks 12x40x250 mm; 20 - center line of hole

A good door requires good material. Any straight-grain, oven-dried wood will do. For crossbars, longitudinal connections and mullions you will need blanks 50mm thick, and for panels it is better to take MDF boards. This material is very stable and prevents panels from swelling or shrinking due to changes in humidity. If it was not possible to find wide enough boards for the bottom and lock crossbars, they can be glued together from 2-3 narrow parts. The same is done when making panels from solid wood.
On the cross members and longitudinal braces, use a jointer to remove all warped and damaged areas. These parts must be completely flat, with parallel faces along their entire length. Their thickness is adjusted by planing to 37mm. The remaining 1mm allowance per side is needed for final planing and sanding. Then plan the boards to the desired width and saw them to length. Boards for longitudinal connections are sawn off with an allowance of 25 mm per side. It will be useful for adjustment when hanging.
Cross members and mullions are laid out on a flat surface. At the top of the future door, a centerpiece is placed so that it lies in the middle of the crossbar. In order not to confuse the parts or their front sides later, the blanks are marked. The layout is finally checked with a square. One edge of the square is brought end to end to the middle, the end of the cross member is moved flush with the other edge and the cross member is pressed. The same operation is performed on the other side of the mullion. Having completed the alignment, marks are made on the internal edges of the cross member for the abutment points of the centerpiece. Similarly, mark the position of the mullions on the lock and bottom crossbars.

To work with dowels, use a conductor . Its use allows you to automatically align dowels and minimize the number of measurements and marking lines. To make the jig, a block 250 mm long is sawn off, the thickness matching the thickness of the frame, and at a distance of 30 mm from the end of the block and exactly in the middle of its longitudinal axis, a drill is drilled vertically through hole with a diameter of 12 mm with a feather drill (Fig. 28, d). After this, the cheeks are glued and nailed, on which the location of the hole axis is marked.
When drilling holes for dowels to a depth of 55 mm, the jig is placed on the end of the part and the sockets are drilled through the hole in the jig. To transfer the required distance from the edge of the workpiece or between the axes of the dowels, appropriate pencil marks are made on the jig.
To avoid mistakes when marking the joints of crossbars with longitudinal bracings, the mullions are clamped between the ends of the crossbars and this assembly is laid on a vertical strapping post. Then the position of the crossbars is marked on the edges of the rack. Now you need to mark the axes of the holes for the middle dowels on the lock and bottom crossbars. To do this, install a jig with a guide hole in the middle of the end of the lock crossbar. Mark on the jig where the top edge of the cross member coincides with the overhanging part of the jig, and make a mark “A”. Drill a hole. Install the jig along mark “A” to the corresponding mark on the vertical stand and also drill a hole
The same operations are performed with the lower cross member. But it is wider, so they make another mark on the conductor - “B”. Taking a mark from the bottom edge or face of the cross member, transfer it to the bottom mark on the rack.

To ensure the strength of the connections, homemade oak dowels with a diameter of 12 x 100 mm are needed. To remove excess glue and air from the joint, two longitudinal channels are sawed through each dowel, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and the fit to the holes is checked.
Glue is applied to all dowels and introduced into all holes of the crossbars and mullions. Press the parts together and place vertical posts under the ends of the crossbars. Install the ribs of the crossbars according to the marks on the racks. If all angles are right, the cross members will line up exactly with the marks on the uprights. If not, lightly press one end of the rack and watch how the crossbar moves relative to the mark. Adjust the position of the jumpers with clamps so that they align with the marks in all four corners.
After gluing the crossbars and mullions, you can connect the vertical posts on the dowels. Place one clamp above and below each cross member. Check the flatness of the assembly. To maintain horizontality, spacers are placed under the lower clamp of each cross member, controlling the flatness of all frame elements using a ruler or long level. All deflections are compensated with gaskets, aligning the parts.
While the frame is drying, you can work on the panels. They are cut 6 mm less in height and width than the frame openings, that is, a 3 mm gap is obtained around the perimeter. It is needed to compensate for changes in the size of the panel due to changes in humidity. A 10mm thick ridge is selected along the perimeter of the panel. If the panels are made of thin material, such as fiberboard or plywood, a comb is, of course, not needed. But in any case, the edges must be chamfered. It is best to do this with a shaped cutter, achieving minimal chipping of the material at the ends.

Before installing the panels, it is worth adjusting the door to the opening. One frame is lighter than the assembled door and is easier to work with. First, install the frame in the opening and wedge it evenly with wedges. Having noted all the defects on its edges, provide a 3mm gap between the frame and the floor. Remove the frame from the opening, carefully plan out the defective areas and check the fit again. If the necessary clearances are provided, remove the frame and cut a 5° bevel on the edges of the vertical posts (Fig. 28, c). These bevels will ensure the door opens and closes freely.
Now you can attach the panels to the frame. To do this, you will need 10 x 10mm glazing beads, cut from an oak edging strip. The glazing beads are trimmed “on the bevel” and the door is prepared for finishing. Intersecting parts are cleaned or planed flush. Sand all door parts (panels, frame and glazing beads) with sandpaper with 150 grit, and then with 220 grit. They are varnished before assembly.
After the varnish has dried, edging beads are nailed to the inner edges of the door frame flush with the outer plane using nails 15 mm long. To avoid splitting the wood, auxiliary holes are drilled for all nails. Turn the door over to the other side and lay the panels. Between the ridge of the latter and the door frame, pieces of cord with a diameter of 6 mm made of insulating foam are laid, which will fix the panel. After this, the panels are fixed with the remaining glazing beads. Then apply the final finishing coating. They hang the door and lock it.

This door also has four panels, but unlike the previous one, its frame is assembled on spikes (Fig. 29).

Rice. 29. Door with panels in grooves;
a - general view; b - d - tenon joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars:
1 - racks; 2 - upper cross member; 3 - lock cross member; 4 - bottom
crossbar; 5 - upper middle; 6 - lower middle; 7 - upper panel;
8 - lower panel; 9 - key 24 x 60 mm; 10 - groove 12 x 12 mm

Pine boards with a moisture content of approximately 7% are suitable for work. At such humidity, the subsequent change in frame dimensions will be minimal. Given in table. 5 The dimensions of the parts required for the manufacture of one door with dimensions of 750 x 2030 mm can be easily changed for a door with other dimensions.

First, all workpieces are roughly sawed out in length and width. Then, in the middle of the long ribs of the posts, mullions and cross members, you need to cut out 12x12mm grooves. The mullions and lock crossbar should have grooves on both sides, while the remaining parts should have grooves only on the inside. The grooves can be selected with a chisel, tongue and groove, milling cutter, or cut out on a circular saw with a package of 10mm thick discs placed 12mm above the table. Place the disk on the workpiece and cut a groove in one of the parts, pressing the workpiece tightly against the ruler. Unfold the workpiece at the other end and once again run the rack through the disk pack. As a result, in the middle of the part you will get a groove 12mm wide and 12mm deep. Before processing the rack, check the cut on the cutting board.
The grooves in the strapping can also be selected with a milling cutter of the required thickness or made manually. In the latter case, two grooves are planed with a tongue and groove tool, then the middle between the cuts is removed with a chisel.

Now you need to mark and make tenons and grooves in the frame elements. The grooves must be parallel to the face of the workpiece and have a depth of 60 mm. The tenon should be of such a size that it fits tightly into the groove by hand without being hammered into place. To make it easier to insert the tenons into the rounded corners of the grooves, grind off their outer corners with cloth-based sandpaper. It is necessary to evenly round the ends of the tenon so that they match the shape of the groove in the rack. The strength of this connection depends on the fit of the tenon to the groove - the more closely they fit, the stronger the connection will be.
Having fitted the grooves and tenons tightly, the door frame can be assembled dry and checked for squareness. Measure the diagonals between opposite corners and if they are the same, the door will be rectangular. When assembling the frame, at the intersection of the mullions and the centers of the crossbars, to align them, insert four 24 x 60mm dowels.
Measure the distance in the windows between the frame elements and determine the dimensions of the panels. Cut MDF panels to size and give them volume by hand or with a router, forming 12 x 12mm ridges around the perimeter.

Before gluing and clamping the finished door make the necessary adjustments to all parts and check its squareness again by measuring the diagonals. The door with glued tenons and inserted panels is placed in a wedge press or a set of clamps and tightened. At this time, when tightening the clamps, make sure that the door remains level. Leave the door clamped in the clamps for a day to prevent the parts from moving until the glue is guaranteed to cure.
Hang the finished door and nail it to the frame as described above. To prevent knots from showing through the paint, coat the door with two coats of shellac-based primer and finish with two coats of oil-based semi-gloss paint.

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Any door carries not only a utilitarian load, but also fulfills decorative function. The paneled door successfully combines both of these elements, being both a reliable and attractive design element.

A paneled door combines elements of not only decor, but also the reliability of structural elements.

Types of panel doors

Since panel doors are very reliable, provide excellent sound insulation and perfectly complement the decor of the room, they are always popular, especially as interior doors. Distinctive feature A paneled door requires the presence of a fairly massive frame, as well as inserts called panels. Panels can be made from various materials:

• one of the most beautiful options- glass inserts, which can be made using transparent or frosted glass, but stained glass looks especially attractive;
• Plywood or chipboard are often used as panels; this is a fairly lightweight and budget option for panels;
• Solid wood can be used to make inserts, which makes the door more expensive, but also more durable.

The panels are attached using both a tongue-and-groove system and a special glazing bead, which makes it easy to replace the inserts if necessary.

Advantages of a self-made panel door

If you decide to install a paneled door in a room, you do not have to use a purchased version. If you have a little skill and desire, you can make such a door yourself. If you make them, then the price will be much cheaper than a similar option sold in the store.

Self-made panel doors will eliminate the need to adjust them to the size of the doorway, since they are initially made according to certain measurements.

Due to the manufacturing features, self-made doors are less susceptible to destruction due to exposure to temperature and humidity changes. Among other things, you can make exclusive doors yourself at a more than affordable price.

The preparatory stage of manufacturing a paneled door

To make a paneled door with your own hands, in addition to desire and certain skills in working with wood, you will need a relatively small set of tools:

• tape measure and pencil;
• wood hacksaw;
• sandpaper with coarse and fine grains;
• chisel;
• screwdriver.

The materials needed to make a door include the following:

• to create a box you need thick boards, the width of which should be up to fifty millimeters, you can use a special beam, in total you need three pieces: two for making the vertical part and one for the upper transverse part;
• to create a frame you need fairly strong beams and slats, reliability depends on their strength;
• to make panels you need to purchase chipboard, plywood or glass;
• in some cases, you need to purchase a bead to secure the panels, in particular, this is necessary if the panels are made of glass;
• For fastening you need glue and screws;
• you need to stock up on fittings (door hinges, handles, locks);
• Don’t forget about finishing materials (paint, varnish, various specialized coatings), which are selected depending on the operating conditions and design concept.

Having decided to make a paneled door with your own hands, you first need to decide on the materials from which it will be made.

For the manufacture of door frames and frames, it is better to choose durable wood species that are quite resistant to changes in temperature and humidity. It is the right material that will help make the door resistant to various external influences and reliable. As a rule, it is better to choose durable wood species, such as oak or ash.

Pine is the most inexpensive and accessible species that is resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, which is why it is often chosen as a material for making doors. For the optimal choice of specific wood, you can consult with a consultant in the store.

To make panels, you can use plywood or chipboard; they make the structure light and inexpensive. If you wish, you can buy more expensive solid wood to make panels; this will make the door stronger and more solid. Glass inserts are often used for interior panel doors. Glass can be transparent, frosted, grooved or patterned. Options with stained glass inserts look very nice.

Real stained glass is quite expensive, so sometimes glass painting is used, usually double-sided, to create the full effect of stained glass.

Making a paneled door

The initial stage of door installation is the manufacture and installation of a doorway, or door frame. In order for the door to look attractive and not spoil the design of the room, it is important to make the door frame correctly and evenly. It should be without distortions or differences in width.

After installing the door frame, you can begin to make the paneled door itself with your own hands.

Initially, you need to draw several sketches of the future paneled door on paper, taking into account personal preferences and common sense in terms of complexity of execution. A paneled door can be quite complex to make, so it is best for novice craftsmen to start by making a door with six panels. The selected sketch is detailed, all dimensions are marked on it. Based on the selected sketch, they purchase necessary materials for making a door.

In order to make a door with your own hands, first of all, a frame is made - the basis of the structure, which is responsible for its strength and on which the panels are attached. The more securely the frame is made, the more reliable the paneled door itself will be.

Using a tape measure, measure the size of the doorway. To design a door, you need to take into account that it should ultimately be four to six millimeters less than the width of the door frame, which must be left for a normal fit. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the basis for the future door is made from the timber purchased for the manufacture of the frame. To do this, mark the required length on the beam, which must be smooth and without mechanical damage, using a pencil. Then, using a hacksaw, saw off the excess part. If possible, you can cut the beams to the required size in a store to facilitate and speed up the door manufacturing process. Such sawing will be of higher quality, since the use of modern equipment allows you to obtain optimal results. This produces two side main posts, two crossbars that are attached to the bottom and top of the structure, as well as internal crossbars and slats that serve as jumpers.

To tightly fasten the parts together, grooves and tenons are made in the right places, which should fit perfectly in size. For additional fastening, the parts are coated with special wood glue, which connects them more tightly. Special chamfers are made in the places where future panels are attached.

After making the frame of the future door, you can begin making the panels. If wood is used for the panels that will be inserted into the door, then it is better to use solid boards to avoid the need to create a prefabricated chamfer. The finished part is cut out of the solid wood according to the dimensions of the chamfer that will decorate the door; special cuts are made along its edges, which allow the panel to be securely attached to the chamfer.

If it is impossible to make panels from a single piece of solid wood, but there is a desire to use wood, then the panels are made from pieces of wood, which are fastened to each other using a system of tenons and grooves, additionally coated with wood glue to give greater strength. After the panel assembled from pieces of wood is ready, cuts are made along its edges for fastening with a chamfer.

Panels made from wood can be further decorated by processing with special tools, but for this you need to have certain skills.

If the panels are made of chipboard or plywood, then they are cut from the selected material in accordance with the required dimensions.

Glass inserts are also cut, if necessary, to the size of the door, or initially, when making lintels and slats, they are based on the existing dimensions of the glass inserts.

If glass with a painting imitating stained glass will be used as an insert, then such painting should be done in advance, before attaching it to the door.

The glass panels are secured with a bead, which makes it quite easy to change the glass if necessary.

After the door is made, processed and coated with paint or varnish, all the necessary fittings are attached to it. After this, the door is installed in the opening.