Construction of a cesspool with your own hands. Do-it-yourself cesspool without regular pumping of household wastewater. Video: cesspool from a barrel at a summer cottage

A simple cesspool, one way or another, has to be pumped out regularly, and this task is troublesome and costly. Many dacha owners and country houses Are you wondering whether it is possible to make a cesspool with your own hands without pumping or a structure that does not need to be pumped out so often?

In fact, a cesspool without pumping is not a myth. To install it, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil and the volume of collected wastewater. Please note that wastewater contains suspended solids and feces. When water from the pit goes into the ground, all these components remain on the bottom and walls of the structure.

When installing a cesspool without pumping, the type of soil is taken into account

Despite the simplicity of constructing a cesspool without pumping, there are a number of problems that require mandatory solutions. The main problem concerns the ability to effectively filter sewage water.

• In the case of sandy, loess and peat soil, a high degree of water permeability is ensured, which is not a very favorable factor, since runoff very quickly reaches the groundwater level. Thus, it must be said that the degree of water filtration will be too low due to the presence of light soils. Based on this feature, there is a risk of groundwater contamination and a significant deterioration in the quality of drinking water in wells or wells. In order to solve such an unpleasant and important problem, it is recommended to reduce the area of ​​the inside of the structure, namely the part that allows water to enter the ground. The best option in this case would be concreting the walls and some area of ​​the bottom of the pit. If after these steps the drainage is very slow, then additional holes can be made in the walls. There is another one effective method improving water filtration, which consists of creating an additional filtration layer at the bottom of the structure. In fact, it's not difficult task, the solution of which will not require much time and effort. So, pour simple clay into the bottom of the hole, level it and compact it well.
• If clay soil predominates on the site, then the problem is drain hole without pumping would be a different question. As a rule, clay is capable of allowing water to pass through slowly, so it stagnates and the structure quickly overflows. If the daily volume of incoming water does not exceed the norm, then it will be enough to make an additional drainage. For these purposes, holes need to be drilled to the maximum depth at the bottom of the pit. A perforated tube will be installed in them, and its top will rise 1-1.5 meters above the bottom of the structure. A special plug is placed on this tube to prevent the penetration of solid fractions. This solution will also prevent the tube from clogging.

If you install several perforated tubes, you will be able to expand the filtration area, which also improves the degree of drainage.

There is another way to eliminate the problem associated with insufficient drainage of sewage water. It consists of constructing a cesspool with the possibility of overflow. As a result, you will have to make two recesses that will be connected to each other through a pipe installed at a certain slope. When the first pit is filled to installed pipe for overflow, then excess wastewater automatically flows into the second pit.

In this case, it is possible to expand the area of ​​land through which sewer water will be drained. During the automatic overflow of wastewater, solid fractions and feces remain in the first pit, where they settle. The second hole, after the wastewater goes into the ground, remains practically empty.

If the wastewater contains a lot of solids and waste, the cesspool will fill up too quickly. Also, the degree and speed of filling will depend on the volume of the structure itself and the volume of sewage water discharged.

By setting up such a pit, you can do without cleaning it for several years. If all sanitary requirements and standards are observed during the construction process, then such a structure will last about ten years. After the end of its service life, another pit is made next door, while the first one remains for compost maturation. After a couple of years, the old hole can be used as a source of good organic fertilizer.

Creation of a monolithic treatment facility without pumping

The most inexpensive way to create an autonomous sewer system in a country house or country house where it is planned permanent residence people, is the construction of a monolithic septic tank without pumping from concrete.

You can also make a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings; they are of course not very expensive, but not cheap either, since delivery is taken into account finished products to the site. As a result, it is worth saying that not every owner of his own home can afford this method of constructing a treatment facility.

If there is a need to make a reliable and efficient septic tank, you can order the delivery of bulk building materials for the construction of a monolithic structure. This option is much better than transporting fragile, large rings and slabs. It should be noted right away that septic tanks made of concrete are considered simple and reliable equipment for cleaning the collection and subsequent treatment of sewage water.

To avoid having to do this in the future renovation work inside a finished septic tank, during its construction it is necessary to follow the recommendations for the design and placement of a cleaning system, which many experts talk about.

Where does the construction of a septic tank without pumping begin?

As a rule, the construction of any underground facilities begins with digging a pit, and the construction of a cesspool is no exception. The volume of the recess can be calculated using several methods. Since the average family uses about one and a half cubic meters of water per day, the volume of the container for collecting dirty sewer water should be about eight cubic meters. Of course, this figure may be higher, but this is enough for the proper organization of the water treatment system.

When constructing a cesspool with your own hands without pumping, you should take into account the following recommendations:

• It is better to dig a pit in the form of a parallelepiped, and the length of the edge should be equal to two meters. This is not at all easy to do, especially in the case of heavy soil, but it is possible to make the most economical option a reality. For this type of work, you can get by with just a shovel, spending one or two days. To ensure that the walls and bottom of the pit are as equal as possible, it is better not to rush. This way the concrete solution will be laid evenly, ensuring the reliability of the entire structure;
• When laying sewer pipes, it is necessary to take into account the level of ground freezing. It is best to lay them below this level or make thermal insulation. This feature must be taken into account during the preparatory work;
• A monolithic septic tank works on the same principle as other devices, which include two concrete wells. One recess is dug out, which is simply divided into two parts, with each compartment responsible for a separate cleaning stage.

Construction of formwork

To avoid spending a lot of money on formwork material during the construction of a concrete septic tank, it is recommended to use sliding formwork. Thus, it can be done not for the entire pit, but only for half, and then lower part of this formwork below. When the first section has completely hardened, work is carried out using the same method for the inter-form space where the solution will be placed.

For the manufacture of panels, oriented strand board, in other words chipboard, which has good moisture resistance and low cost, can be used. During the work process you also need to acquire:

• in pieces plastic pipe which should remain after installing the sewer outlet from the house;
• pieces of wooden beams, with the help of which the shields will gain the necessary rigidity;
• reinforcing bars.

If there are no reinforcing bars, then you can use other long cylindrical metal objects. These could be old half-inch pipes or something similar. Any corners or rods that have bending strength will do.

If a sealed septic tank is to be installed, then at the preparatory stage the bottom of the cesspool is filled with concrete and left to dry for a couple of days.

How to make formwork in a pit?

• Formwork panels are mounted in the cesspool, which are secured to each other by wedging the inserted wooden block.
• It is also necessary to prepare holes for water drainage. To do this, you need to cut round holes in the formwork at intervals of about 30 centimeters. Pre-prepared pipes should fit into these holes. They are driven into the ground to a depth of 5 centimeters, this prevents them from being turned out of the formwork under the influence of the concrete solution.
• Sewage pipes leading out of the house are threaded into the formwork, ending up inside the pit.

Work on the construction of a monolithic septic tank

To make an effective septic tank without pumping with your own hands, you should prepare a concrete solution. To prepare it you need to acquire the following materials:

• Portland cement, about 400 kg in total;
• sand, 600 kg is enough;
• a good liquid plasticizer grade C-3, five liters is enough;
• ordinary water about 200 liters.

Before pouring concrete into the formwork, you need to install special reinforcement or similar replaceable elements into it. This action is required to enhance the strength of the final structure.

• the first part of the pit needs to be filled with mortar; this is where the formwork will be installed. In order for the structure to acquire strength characteristics, you need to wait a few days for it to harden;
• when the solution has completely hardened, you can safely dismantle the formwork and build it on the next side of the dug pit;
• Then, using the same algorithm, pour the solution again and wait for several days.

Dividing the structure into separate cleaning compartments

When the body of the treatment structure is made, it can be divided into two identical areas:

• in the first compartment solid fractions from sewer water and sediment in the form of sludge will be collected;
• in the second compartment liquid contaminants will accumulate, which will pass into the ground through the filter bottom.

Of course, everyone wants to somehow save money during the construction of a concrete septic tank, and the construction of a dividing wall is no exception. If there is a need for this, then it can be made from any available materials, for example, brick, stone, concrete blocks, etc.

In this case, it is important to observe the height of the holes intended for overflow. This height should be below 0.5 meters of the inlet level.

Experts recommend installing a simple tee in the overflow hole, which is often used for sewer installations. If the water comes from below, then with this arrangement of the tube, heavy sewage particles will not be able to overcome gravitational forces. If large fractions remain in the first treatment chamber, the overall efficiency of the structure will increase significantly.

How to cover a septic tank and how to maintain it?

In order for the hardened solution to acquire the necessary strength and for the septic tank to be able to easily withstand vertical loads from the ceiling, you need to wait about two weeks. It is not uncommon for small cracks and defects to appear in the walls of a structure, but there is no need to worry about this. They can be easily rubbed with a simple concrete solution, only this solution should contain 1/3 of the cement.

After the structure has hardened well, you can proceed to the process of covering the septic tank. So, the work needs to be carried out in a certain sequence:

• to begin with, they install channels, it is on them that the ceiling is fixed;
• a shield made of wooden boards with side edges is attached to the channels. These sides will be the boundaries of the hatch opening, which is planned to be placed above the dividing wall. As a result, it becomes possible to service two halves of the septic tank through this hatch. Flat slate is also a good option for dividing compartments;
• after this process, two pipes can be installed, namely for injection and outlet;
• now you need to lay reinforcement into the formed horizontal formwork, which is used to ensure the necessary strength of the floor;
• Upon completion of the above work, concrete mortar is poured.

By fulfilling all the requirements and following the instructions, you can easily make a monolithic septic tank without pumping out of reinforced concrete. This design is very convenient to use, and its construction is relatively inexpensive.

This method of installing a septic tank is suitable not only for a summer residence, but also for country houses, but it is important to correctly calculate the required volume of the structure. Using the advice of experts and craftsmen, you can independently build a reliable structure that will serve without fail for many years.

Which septic tank is still better?

Finally, let’s consider which septic tank is considered the best for a particular case, taking into account the average annual cost of treating one cubic meter of wastewater:

• for the summer version of the dacha, where people stay only on weekends, a homemade septic tank made from barrels is enough;
• if people live at the dacha for seasons, then a small two-chamber concrete septic tank, made on the principle of a cesspool, is quite enough;
• if an average-income family lives in a country house, then a suitable option would be the treatment design of their concrete rings or a purchased anaerobic model;
• If you plan to service several houses at the same time, then it is advisable to install an aerobic version of the septic tank.

All purchased options must undergo strict quality control, so you don’t have to worry about their performance and safety for the environment.

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
• sealed cesspool - for a large amount of waste;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use a drainage pit. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than a conventional pit latrine. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area to organize a filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– additional equipment – ​​to simplify the process you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 m from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, you don’t have to bury it completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
3. It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. On clay soil a sand and gravel cushion is made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.



5. A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones of different sizes is poured into the formwork, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. A ventilation pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is inserted into the second.





11. A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

As a result, the question of where to dispose of waste becomes acute. The most simple option is the arrangement of a cesspool, even a person who has never performed such work before can cope with this task. Therefore, you need to think in advance about how to properly make a sewer system, what materials are best to use for this, and take into account all the other nuances of this matter.

First of all, you need to find good place, where it will be possible to equip a cesspool in a private house. You also need to familiarize yourself with the main types of such sewage systems and find out which one is best suited for your site.

Choosing a place for a cesspool

First of all, you need to select the area where the cesspool system will be made; there are two options:

1. Right on the site that is adjacent to residential premises or dacha.
2. Construction of a pit at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a private house and other buildings, as well as from neighboring houses.

Such distance requirements are not accidental; the fact is that with a closer construction of a cesspool system without pumping, possible damage to the foundation, as well as flooding of buildings.

There are other nuances that need to be taken into account:

• The distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated; it must be at least 1 meter;
• The depth of the pit should be less than 3 meters. It is also necessary to take into account the groundwater levels of the area;
• There must be a distance of at least 25 meters from the cesspool to the drinking wells.

The last requirement also largely depends on the type of soil on the site. If it is clayey, then the minimum distance to drinking sources is 20 meters, if it is loamy - 30 meters, and for sandy soil this distance should be at least 50 meters.

Types of cesspools

Today, all cesspools are divided into three types:

1. Absorbing (pits that have no bottom).
2. Sealed.
3. Septic tanks.

The simplest option would be to build a storage pit that has no bottom. This species has its own positive aspects. First of all, such a tank does not need very frequent pumping. Also, these pits are small, so a minimum of free space is wasted and cash for arrangement.

But this type also has disadvantages, among which the main one is the release of waste into the soil, which is harmful to the environment. In addition, such a pit will not be able to cope with a large amount of wastewater, so it is mainly installed in a dacha, where people do not live for the whole year.

Sealed tanks are considered cleaner, environmentally friendly and easier to use. The main disadvantage of this design is difficult maintenance. The owners have to constantly use the services of vacuum cleaners to pump out wastewater. With every year of use, you will have to call specialists more often.

If the volume of wastewater in the house is large enough, then you will also have to call the vacuum cleaners more often, because the water is pumped out of the tank, and the sludge remains at the bottom. This will lead to great inconvenience and waste of money.

Experts advise installing a sealed tank of the same volume as the tank of a sewer truck. This will prevent the pit from overflowing until the next time the drain is pumped out.

The most effective and reliable option is a septic tank, which you can also make yourself. This version of the cesspool performs not only the functions of accumulating, but also cleaning waste.

You can make both single-chamber and multi-chamber systems yourself. The easiest way to arrange and use single-chamber structures. This will be a kind of well, at the bottom of which there is a thick layer of crushed stone or broken brick; these materials perform the function of filtration.

This means that rough wastewater treatment occurs, after which the liquid passes into the soil, where, thanks to bacteria, it is also purified and clarified. As a result, the storage tank does not fill up as quickly, and some contaminants end up in the soil.

The most effective option is multi-chamber septic tanks; they purify the water so much that it can then be used for watering beds or other similar tasks. But the disadvantage is the high cost of installing such a treatment system.

Arrangement of a cesspool with your own hands

In order to choose the right type of cesspool to use in a suburban area, you need to accurately determine the location, calculate the daily amount of waste and pay attention to your material capabilities:

• If every day the amount of waste does not exceed 1 cubic meter, then the best option will be the construction of a simple pit without a bottom and without the need for regular pumping. In such a reservoir, the wastewater partially goes into the soil, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria.

  Most rural and country toilets;

• If the number of daily drains exceeds 1 cubic meter, then you can forget about options without pumping; you will have to equip a hermetic structure and regularly use the services of vacuum cleaners.

The fact is that bottomless structures allow waste to enter the soil, where special bacteria perform cleaning functions. But we must understand that the possibilities of these bacteria are not limitless.

With a large amount of wastewater, microorganisms simply cannot cope with their task. In such a situation, environmental pollution will begin, and waste can also get into aquifers and contaminate drinking water sources. If the amount of wastewater is very large, then there will be high costs for sewage systems; in this case, it is better to purchase or make a multi-chamber septic tank yourself.

Construction of a simple cesspool

If the amount of wastewater is small, then it’s better not to split hairs; such a cesspool is made quite simply:

1. First you need to dig a hole, for this you do not need to use special equipment, an ordinary shovel will be enough, because the depth will be approximately 2 meters, the width will be the same, but the length will be 3 meters.
2. After this, it is necessary to lay the earth walls using special materials (concrete rings, car tires etc.).
3. A layer of crushed stone should be poured onto the bottom of the pit.

1. The final stage of arranging a cesspool system will be the installation of a protective ceiling and cover.

This simple version of a cesspool has the following positive aspects:

• You can set up the system very quickly and easily without outside help;
• Materials for this type of cesspool system are inexpensive;
• Ease of operation;
• Does not require frequent pumping of wastewater.

True, there are also negative points:

• To install such a system, it is necessary that the groundwater level be below the level of the drainage system;
• The operation of this system is advisable if the amount of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter per day;
• The pit fills with sediment;
• Unpleasant odors appear.

Schemes

Today there are many options for simple cesspools that you can make yourself. Conventionally, such pits are divided into temporary and permanent, but the main criterion for classification is the material from which the place for drainage is made.

Car tires

If a cesspool is needed for a toilet in the country, and there is no desire to spend a lot of money on it, then you can put old car tires to good use. Building a pit from tires is quite simple, everything is done very quickly, and the cost of such a design will be low.

First, you need to dig a pit, and put tires on its bottom, one on top of the other. At the very bottom there should be a layer of crushed stone. It is better to treat the joints between rubber tires with clay to seal them.

The advantages of this scheme:

• If necessary, the structure can be easily restored;
• Long term services;
• Low cost of materials, quick and easy construction.

Negatives:

• Over time, such material begins to rot;
• If the load on the cesspool is too large, this will lead to pollution;
• The cesspool system quickly silts up, so periodic pumping is still necessary.

Concrete rings

This option also allows you to quickly and effectively deal with sewer problems. By appearance such a hole will resemble a well. The rings, like the tires in the previous scheme, are installed one on top of the other. Experts advise sealing the joints between concrete rings with cement screed.

If we recall the classification, then in its type the structure of concrete rings is more similar to sealed cesspool systems. Therefore, there is a need to regularly call vacuum cleaners. But you can also build a homemade septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

• A ceiling with a hatch is very easy to make;
• cesspool will work for several decades;
• You can do everything yourself, without masters;
• Low cost of materials.

Main disadvantages:

• Unpleasant odors may appear from the ventilation duct;
• The operation of the pit requires regular pumping;
• It is quite difficult to install rings in a pit without special equipment.

Brick

Many experts call brick the best material for the construction of cesspools, it is ideal for arranging in a toilet or for removing waste from a sauna.

Advantages of brick systems:

• Every home owner can handle the masonry, so building a pit will not bring problems;
• The design does not harm the environment and does not pollute the soil.

Negatives:

• To prevent siltation of the system, it is necessary to constantly use the services of vacuum cleaners;
• Under such operating conditions, the brick quickly deteriorates, so the service life of a cesspool rarely exceeds 20 years;
• Unpleasant odors may appear. But this drawback can be eliminated by adding special bacteria that accelerate the process of waste decomposition.

Construction of a brick cesspool system

The scheme of work is as follows:

The initial stage of the work will be the selection of a site for the pit. In this case, it is necessary to comply with all the recommendations of specialists, and do everything so that the use of the pit is convenient.

After this, you need to choose one of the design options. They are distinguished by shape; there are rectangular, round and square types. Next, the required volume is calculated, and you can begin to dig a hole for the cesspool system.

In the traditional version, it is advised to tilt it in the direction where the hatch will be located, pour sand into the bottom of the pit and fill it with cement. Concrete slabs can also be used. But if you need a pit without pumping, then you need to pour crushed stone at the bottom.

After this, the walls are laid. Masters believe that the optimal thickness would be 30 centimeters. They also advise doing the masonry in a checkerboard fashion, using halves of bricks. In some situations, a quarter of a brick is also used for masonry.

When the walls are already standing, they need to be covered with bitumen mastic or a clay castle made for better sealing. If necessary, the inner surface can be plastered.

Cesspool from a barrel

This version of the cesspool can be made independently; it does not require regular pumping. But it is worth noting that a barrel cesspool system can only work with a small amount of wastewater (up to 1 cubic meter per day).

Phased arrangement:

1. First of all, you need to prepare a barrel with a volume of 200 liters. It is better to use materials that are not susceptible to rust. Holes must be made in the walls of the container; they will serve as drainage. You need to make holes using a checkerboard system; for this you can use a drill or grinder. The distance between the holes should be 15-20 centimeters.
2. We tightly attach a pipe to the bottom of the tank; it will help install the drain pipe. To make the structure truly airtight, it is better to use silicone materials. The place where the pipe is installed should also be treated with mastic.
3. The container must be wrapped in geotextile and secured with twine. This will help protect the cesspool from soil and other solid elements getting inside, but at the same time will not harm the drainage process.

Installing a cesspool from a barrel is done as follows:

• First, a trench is dug and a sewer pipeline is laid (necessarily with a slope);
• Next, you need to dig a hole, which in size will be slightly larger than the size of the barrel;
• A layer of gravel or crushed stone (about 20-25 centimeters) is poured onto the bottom of the pit;
• A ready-made barrel is installed on this cushion and a drain pipe is connected;
• The space that remains between the walls of the pit and the barrel must also be filled with crushed stone;
• At the end sewer pipe must be connected to the pipe.

Using this method, you can equip a drainage pit for different purposes. In particular, it is suitable for draining wastewater from a bathhouse or sauna, as well as for a toilet.

Concrete drainage pit

Concrete is a material known for its strength and ability to withstand harsh conditions. Therefore, it is also used quite often for arranging a cesspool system. You can make a pit from such material as follows:

• First, it is necessary to determine the volume of the system;
• After this, dig a hole taking into account the required dimensions;
• Formwork is installed around the perimeter of the pit and filled with concrete mortar;
• It is recommended to cover the outer part of the walls with bitumen, this will provide waterproofing;
• Drainage material is poured into the bottom of the hole (gravel, crushed stone or even broken brick can be used);

• Roofing material or film (for waterproofing) is laid on the walls of the prepared pit. In addition, it is necessary to install a ceiling with a hatch and make a hole for connecting a sewer pipe;
• The final stage of the work will be connecting the sewer pipe to the cesspool.

This technology is also considered universal; it is suitable for both a bathhouse and a toilet.

Video

Not every suburban area has a central sewer system. In this case, owners have to equip autonomous sewerage with your own hands, and this procedure is not particularly complicated. By the way, a do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping is, in some ways, superior to a sealed structure, which has also been in considerable demand lately. Below we will consider all the intricacies of how to make a cesspool so as not to pump out.

A cesspool is considered the simplest sewerage device on the territory of a dacha or country house. Its peculiarity is that you can organize it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Rules for the location of the cesspool

Before making a hole, you need to understand in what place it is best to do it. Currently there are SNiPs in force that regulate the location of the cesspool as follows:

• On the territory adjacent to the house or cottage;
• The pit can be installed no closer than 10 meters from the foundation of any nearest structure. This rule is determined by the fact that if the pit has poor tightness, this may affect the quality of the nearest foundation (that is, it may simply collapse over time);
• It is also important to maintain a distance of at least 1 meter from the pit to the fence;
• A cesspool in a private house should have a maximum depth of no more than three meters. In addition, it is important to consider how deep the groundwater;
• The pit for the dacha should be located 25 meters from sources of drinking water. The distance is calculated depending on the soil type. If it is sandy and sandy loam soil, the safe distance is 50 meters, loamy soil - 30 meters, clayey soil - 20 meters.

What types of cesspools are there?

In a private house, you can organize three types of pits with your own hands:

• absorbent (without bottom);
• hermetic;
• septic tank

The simplest option is the first, which is a bottomless reservoir. Such a sewer system has its own strengths. First of all, it is good because it requires rare pumping. In addition, it can be made small, and this will not take much money.

The only disadvantage of this option is that all wastewater penetrates directly into the ground, which causes some damage to the environment. Yes and if country house generates too much waste, such a pit simply cannot cope with their quantity.

A sealed container, which is also environmentally friendly for the environment, is considered more comfortable from an operational point of view. But in order to pump out such sewage, it is sometimes necessary to call a sewer truck. After a certain time, the effectiveness of the sealed pit decreases and it will need to be cleaned more and more often.

With large volumes of wastewater, the sewer truck will have to be called out even more often. This is explained by the fact that the wastewater is removed, but the sludge remains. In a word, this option requires an investment of material resources.

The most reliable cesspool is considered to be a septic tank built at the dacha with your own hands. As for the principle of its operation, it is mechanical wastewater treatment.

Speaking of septic tanks, such equipment comes with one or more chambers. The simplest are septic tanks with one chamber. If we consider the design, then a septic tank is something like a well with a bottom, which is laid out using crushed stone and broken bricks. In a word, the wastewater is roughly cleaned, after which water begins to penetrate into the soil, where bacteria complete the procedure: they are further purified. As a result, the reservoir will not be replenished immediately, and a minimum of harmful substances will enter the soil itself.

The most environmentally friendly septic tanks are those consisting of several chambers, they are able to better purify wastewater to the point that it can be used to water the garden. There is no question of the presence of odor in this case. At the same time, this is the most expensive option for arranging a waste pit.

What materials are pits made of?

A pit for a bathhouse or home can be made from a wide variety of different materials. Basically, improvised building materials are taken, such as bricks, cinder blocks, boards and even tires. As for the first two materials, their strength will be sufficient for the construction, but boards and rubber will quickly become unusable, since various loads will constantly act on them. If we are talking about a high-quality and durable storage device, then for its construction it is necessary to use monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and bricks.

Thus, a do-it-yourself sauna container is most often made from reinforced concrete rings. The pit is dug on your own, but to install the rings you need to rent a crane. As for the dimensions, the pit should have a diameter of 50 cm larger than the rings, which is required for further waterproofing of the structure. If several products are installed, then one of them must have factory perforation (necessary for a filtration well). If the rings are solid, then the hole is made independently.

The bottom of the pit should be filled with 20 cm of sand and 30 cm of gravel or crushed stone. These rocks are used as a filter that will retain fecal waste in the hole.

The places where the concrete rings are connected must be covered with cement mortar, and the outside covered with bitumen mastic as a waterproofing material. The upper ring must have a special hole where the sewer pipe is inserted. As for the pipeline itself, it must be laid below the level where the soil freezes. Ready design should be covered with a floor slab equipped with a hatch. This option for a do-it-yourself sauna pit is considered the most popular.

Such a drive has the following advantages:

• durable;
• it is quickly erected, since all the parts are already ready;
• high efficiency.

Among the disadvantages:

• installation complexity;
• You will still have to pump it out from time to time.

An equally rare representative of the cesspool is a brick structure. At the moment, such pits are successfully used in many areas and differ in both strengths and weaknesses.

Among the advantages of a brick cesspool are:

• Lightness of the device. In fact, the quality of the masonry of such a structure is not regulated in any way, so you can do the arrangement yourself, which will save a lot of money;
• Ease of operation. Here you need to understand that such pits are used only to store household waste. Therefore, the design does not include elements that could break and stop the functioning of the pit itself;
• Easy to recycle. A sewer truck is called to pump out sewage;
• An environmentally friendly option. Since the structure has a bottom and its walls are covered waterproofing material, sewage will not penetrate into the soil and wastewater. If there is a well or well on the site, then this factor plays a significant role.

Let's note the disadvantages:

• If the hole fills up, it will give off an unpleasant odor;
• Brick experiences various chemical loads, as a result of which its quality may deteriorate;
• Cost of operation. Since such a pit does not have filter elements, from time to time you will need to call a sewer truck, which entails additional costs.

Features of a cesspool from a barrel

As noted above, pits are made from different materials, but not everyone meets environmental safety standards. A cesspool made from a barrel has a significant advantage, which is that such a design is completely sealed. In addition, you can make barrels with your own hands.

Such a system is set up as follows. Based on building regulations, the drain pipe must be laid before the foundation is built. As for the rest of the recommendations:

• The pipe must be laid at the bottom of the base of the structure;
• The slope must be maintained in relation to the pit;
• The owner must decide whether the pipe should be insulated or not. If insulation is not provided, it is important that its slope allows liquid to move freely;
• The drainage tank must be located no closer than 5 meters from the house and 2 meters from the fence;
• The pit should have a depth not exceeding 3 meters. This is due to the fact that the vacuum pumps have a three-meter pumping hose;
• Before lowering the barrel into the pit, you should make sure that its hatch is conveniently located in relation to the sewer truck;
• The design should not have many bends and joints, otherwise there is a high probability that the pipe will quickly become clogged;
• In the case of a completely closed hatch in the barrel, it is recommended to leave ventilation duct(made in the form of a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm). The pipe is needed for the safe operation of the structure - explosive methane accumulates in a confined space;
• It is important to choose a fairly large barrel. If a light barrel is installed, then under the influence of the soil it will simply be pushed out of the soil, especially if the latter is heaving. The heaving of the soil does not matter if the bottom of the pit is concreted.

The material from which the barrel is made also plays a significant role. It can be plastic or metal. The most the best option counts plastic construction. Such a tank is good because the factory version already includes a hatch and a ventilation hole. But despite this, the strongest quality of a plastic barrel is its performance characteristics. So, plastic is not afraid of corrosion and rotting. As a result, the installed capacity can last about 50 years, in some cases more.

Other advantages are as follows:

• Due to the small mass of plastic, containers made from it are easy to install. Installation of the product can be carried out by one person;
• In terms of strength, plastic is inferior to metal, however, the strength characteristics are sufficient to withstand soil loads;
• Plastic barrels do not have welded seams, so they will not leak during operation, which has a positive effect on safety for the environment;
• Using plastic tanks, you can create an overflow system in which sewage will be processed and cleaned.

It happens that a septic tank or cesspool is not used for a long time. In order to clean it, use a regular drainage pump with liquid processed by bacteria.

It is important to understand! A waste disposal facility is not a waste container. Therefore, if inorganic materials and other waste get into it, they simply will not rot and will simply contaminate the structure, making it less productive. If you want to maintain a high-quality and efficient waste pit on your site, it should be used only for its intended purpose.

Sewage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But connect to a centralized sewer system not always possible - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage communities. The way out of the problem is to equip your own facilities for the collection, purification and disposal of wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How does a cesspool without a bottom work?

There are two types of cesspools:

• sealed;
• leaky, without bottom;

The first are a simple structure made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewer truck must pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, which is why some owners are thinking about how to partially recycle sewage using soil treatment.

And the simplest option is unsealed cesspools. They are a shallow well made from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself or a filter bed made of sand, gravel or crushed stone is located there. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil purification. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewer truck 1-2 times a year.

You might be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For a large family, without a bottom is not an effective and environmentally friendly solution - in this case, it is preferable to build several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly look at the good and bad aspects of a leaky cesspool design. Its advantages include the following.

1. The price of the structure is extremely low compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
2. Easy to create - a pit and a trench for the pipe are dug, the walls of the cesspool and a lid are installed, and the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be completed independently.
3. Speed ​​of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings in a couple of days.
4. Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewer truck not every month, but only 1-2 times for the whole year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious disadvantages.

1. Environmental problems - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
2. Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live next to you are unlikely to like the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage communities and gardening communities - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
3. Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site to inspect it, it may consider the presence of a cesspool with waste seeping into the soil a violation of standards, with corresponding consequences.
4. The fragility of the work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt and will no longer allow water to pass through in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill with wastewater faster, so it will have to be moved to a new location or replaced with a full-fledged septic tank. Or use the services of sewer cleaners more often.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not best solution from an environmental and compliance point of view sanitary standards. But a competent choice of location for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that current sanitary and construction standards do not give a clear answer to the question of whether it is admissible or, conversely, inadmissible to build a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, if possible, a leaky cesspool should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between such a structure and various objects:

• from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
• to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
• to trees and vegetable gardens - at least 5 m;
• to the road or site boundary – from 2 to 4 m;
• to residential buildings – 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the sewage collection facilities of your closest neighbors are constructed. Also, if the matter occurs at the dacha, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of a visit from inspectors from sanitary service to your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-construction of bottomless cesspools, drainage wells and septic tanks are concrete rings. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and their low price makes these products accessible to any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before you begin excavation work, determine how many concrete rings and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in a table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings manufactured in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Step 1. Start building a cesspool without a bottom by determining the location where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2. At the selected location, mark and determine the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3. Begin direct soil extraction. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow and there is enough time, then you can do the excavation work manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil upward. The work is greatly facilitated by using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it is discovered that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to bring in an excavator.

Step 4. Regularly measure the depth of the pit using a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewage drains and groundwater.

Step 5. Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, and they are brought in by truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6 Using a crane, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! To better fix the rings to each other, apply to their ends. cement mortar before installing a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, place the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time, align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Finish styling concrete products installation of the top round plate in which a hole is cut for the hatch.

Step 9 In loam conditions, a large contact area will be required for effective drainage. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the sump pit. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area of ​​the internal surface of the structure.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured onto the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows you to at least slightly clean the sewage drains going into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and simple job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important to him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much or the absence of the need to go down into the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filtration bed. Instead of the latter, you can use regular sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom made of brick

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a structure made of brick. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than a structure made of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, fence or barn, then it makes sense to put them to work and make a cesspool without a bottom entirely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. It will help you in this matter step by step instructions with photographs below.

Step 1. To build a brick cesspool, like any other sewerage structure, start with earthworks– choose a location and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2. Check the depth and diameter of the pit using a tape measure.

Step 3. Get rid of the earth removed during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave part of it for subsequent filling of the roof of the structure.

Step 4. At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5. Proceed with laying the lower part of the brick cesspool walls. If you have not previously dealt with similar material, then the construction of this structure will be good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Sand-lime bricks They absorb water well and are gradually destroyed. If you want your cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6 Continue laying and rise higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Complete the laying of the walls of the cesspool made of bricks, not reaching a little to the surface of the ground.

Step 8 Lead the sewer pipe from the house into the cesspool.

Step 9 Reinforce the sump pit using a metal angle installed as shown in the image below. Instead it is allowed to use wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to deteriorate and rot.

Step 10 Place the same flat brick ring on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Close the cesspool from above concrete slab, manufactured in advance or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage drainage. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at a factory or.