How to properly glue ceiling tiles: useful tips. How to glue tiles to the ceiling - choice of material, gluing rules How to glue polystyrene tiles to the ceiling

Foam ceiling tiles are a quick and inexpensive finishing method. There is no need to involve specialists or have special skills or tools. Almost anyone can do the job, including alone. And the service life of such coating is more than 15 years. In this article we will tell you step by step how to glue tiles to the ceiling with your own hands. We will also consider what to do if the surface is uneven.

Types of ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles come with edging or smooth edges. The latter is called seamless, since the joints are invisible when installed correctly. The ceiling looks like it has been painted or covered with chalk whitewash.

They produce three types of seamless ceiling tiles, the effect of which is obtained in different ways:

With curly edges (zigzag or wavy). The tiles fit tightly together. In addition, jagged lines are less noticeable to the human eye than straight lines.
With a calibrated edge, that is, with minimal dimensional errors and identical angles. The seams are extremely thin.
With decorative filling. There is a relief pattern on the surface (floral, geometric or abstract), which distracts attention from the joints and makes them invisible.

Panels with a seam have an uneven edge (with a chamfer of different shapes and sizes). Therefore, after gluing there are visible joints that have to be sealed.

Most often, foam ceiling tiles are produced in the shape of a square with a side of 50 cm. But there are other formats, including rectangular ones:

30x60;
30x70;
40x40;
40x70;
60x60.

Ceiling panels also differ in material, production technology and surface type. Each has its pros and cons, but this does not affect the installation process.

Layout options

Ceiling tiles can be glued in several ways. The choice depends on personal preference, the size of the room and the desired effect.

Rows

Classic layout, in which the edges are located parallel to the walls. It is better that the surface is smooth, otherwise the curvature of the partitions is easily noticeable.

The following options are possible:

glue seamless tiles, resulting in a complete surface;
take elements of two colors and arrange them in a checkerboard pattern (this will hide the unevenness of the ceiling);
lay out other patterns or geometric shapes.

With shift

This option is similar to the previous one. White or colored tiles are glued offset to half the element. The room looks airier and lighter. But more precise markings will be needed.

Diagonally

With this layout, the seams are less visible. But gluing becomes more difficult, as more calculations and adjustments are required. The number of trimmings increases. Mostly products of the same color are used.

Methods for gluing ceiling tiles

The elements are installed in a certain order. In this article we will consider options for laying in rows, and diagonal and diamond-shaped are described in another. The edges are placed parallel to the walls. The ceiling is first marked for ceiling tiles.

Snake

The first square is glued at the central point, the second - to the right of it. Then lay two panels below. Installation continues in a spiral, from the already attached elements to the edges of the ceiling.

Often the exact number of slabs does not fit in size. Then you need to trim those of them that are adjacent to the walls. To do this, use a construction knife. The distance is first measured with a ruler.

Crisscross

The first four tiles are laid so that one of the corners falls into the center of the room. It turns out to be a square. The following ones are glued in parallel rows from the middle towards the opposite walls. Then across the previous ones. Lastly, fill the remaining areas.

Rows from the corner

This option is most often used in Not large rooms so that there are fewer scraps. The first tile is placed in the corner, the next ones are laid from it along the walls. And then - parallel to those already glued.

How to glue ceiling tiles

The following requirements apply to the composition of the adhesive:

high adhesion;
white or transparent color (otherwise it will show through, especially through thin tiles);
absence of solvents in the composition;
versatility (must glue different materials);
high drying speed;
viscosity.

Glue selection

These criteria are suitable:

universal polymer types;
polyvinyl acetate;
liquid nails;
special mastics for ceiling tiles.

What exactly is best to glue on depends on the characteristics of the overlap. Let us consider the properties of the compositions in more detail.

Universal adhesives include such adhesives as “Titan”, “Master”, “Elitans”, “Dragon”, etc. Unfortunately, you have to hold the decor until the composition “sets” (up to several tens of seconds, depending on the brand ). When decorating the ceiling, this is inconvenient, since you have to stand with your hands raised. Of similar products, “Moment” is faster, but it must be kept in the air after application, and not pressed onto the tile immediately.

Polyvinyl acetate options (“PVA”, “Bustilat”) are used only on well-leveled surfaces. The consumption is higher than other products, since the glue is applied not only to the tiles, but also to the ceiling. But there is no sharp unpleasant smell.

Liquid nails are applied with a construction gun. The composition is distributed in doses. To glue tiles on flat surfaces, a small amount is enough: in the corners and in the center. If necessary, glue is applied to the entire area and in a thicker layer. This way you can hide small imperfections in the ceiling. Any brand that does not contain solvents is suitable, for example, “Moment Montage” or “Titan”.

Mastics are sold as a paste in small buckets. These products are specially designed to set quickly so that the panels do not need to be held down.

Is it possible to glue ceiling tiles with putty?

With large differences, the surfaces have to be leveled. In this case, two stages are combined into one:

Apply a thin layer of putty to a small area.
Flatten.
Press the foam panel down.

The finishing composition is used more often. But if the overlap is very uneven, they take the starting one.

Calculation of the required amount of tiles and adhesive

To determine how much material is needed, you first need to know the area of the ceiling. If the room has a simple shape, this is not difficult: multiply the length by the width. For more complex ones, with protrusions, niches, etc., use this method:

Draw a diagram indicating the dimensions.
Divided into rectangles and squares.
Calculate the areas of the parts.
Add up all square meters.

The approximate consumption of glue and putty is indicated on the packaging. But when leveling, when a thicker layer is used, it increases.

Approximate quantity per square meter will be like this:

"Titan" - 50 g;
“Moment” - 200-400 g;
“PVA” - 200-300 g;
"Bustilat" - 100-200 g.

Calculate the area of one tile. To do this, multiply its length by its width.
Divide the total ceiling area by the resulting number.
Add about 10-20% (depending on the material and shape of the room). This will create a reserve in case some parts break or are cut unevenly.
Round the result to a whole number.

As an example, let's calculate how many panels with a side of 50 cm are required for a room of 20 m²:

The area of one tile is 250 cm², or 0.25 m².
We divide the ceiling area by it: 20/0.25=80. This is the number of elements without stock.
Add 10%. 80+8=88. So many panels need to be purchased for repairs.

List of tools and materials

In addition to tiles and glue, you will need:

ladder;
construction knife (cutting panels);
roulette;
laser level;
pencil;
bucket for diluting solutions;
putty;
primer;
application brush;
spatula;
a soft cloth to remove dirt from the front side;
painting (beating) cord;
glue gun (if liquid nails are selected);
spatula (for mastic or putty);
brush (for other types);
sealant for sealing seams;
ceiling plinth made of polystyrene.

Preparing the ceiling for gluing

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove everything that does not adhere well. Whitewash, paint or crumbling plaster must be cleaned off with a spatula or washed off with water. Otherwise, the coating will fall off along with the tile.

Cracks and noticeable depressions must be filled with putty. But perfect alignment is not required.

Attention! It is advisable to wait some time before continuing the repair so that the layer is completely dry (from 12 hours to several days). Manufacturer's recommendations are indicated on the packaging.

Do I need to prime the ceiling before gluing it?

This is necessary, especially if the base is quite loose. The product strengthens the surface and reduces glue consumption. It is better to choose a primer:

deep penetration;
with an antiseptic effect (to prevent fungus from developing).

You must wait until the composition is completely dry.

Where to start gluing tiles

In this matter, they focus on both convenience and visual effect. Let's consider possible ways in detail. In all cases, before starting work, the ceiling must be marked for ceiling tiles.

From the center of the room

The first panel is placed so that the corner is located at the midpoint. Three more are glued on. The result is a square, from which further installation takes place (with a snake or a cross).

From the center tile

The first element is glued exactly in the middle of the room. The center of the tile and the center of the room coincide. To do this, when marking, lay down half the length of the element in the direction of the walls.

From the chandelier

The main lighting is not always located in the middle of the ceiling, especially in rooms with complex geometry. You can start installation from the chandelier. Then the initial plates are oriented towards the attachment point. The corners around it are cut off. In the future, this place will be covered with a chandelier plate.

From the corner

The previous methods are more often used in large rooms - halls, living rooms. And in small rooms or corridors it is not necessary to start from the center. The first tile can also be placed in the corner.

For this method it is required smooth walls. It is advisable to start the sticker from the window, not from the door. Then, when entering the room, the cut slabs will not be visible.

Ceiling markings

Before gluing, do this:

Fix the beating cord in one of the corners.
Pull it diagonally towards the opposite side and release it.
Mark the second diagonal in the same way.
The point of their intersection is the center of the room. If necessary, move it to the place where the chandelier is attached.
From this point, using a painting cord, draw perpendiculars to the walls.
Based on them, draw squares with a side equal to the length of the panels.

How to properly glue ceiling tiles

First you need to prepare the material. Open the packages and inspect each item. All should be the same size and color, without burrs or sagging around the edges. If necessary, defects are corrected by cutting with a knife.

To glue the tiles, do the following:

The square is coated with glue.
Place it in place, lightly smooth it with your hand and hold it until it sets.
The next part is joined tightly, the edges are aligned and also pressed.
Excess glue is immediately removed from the polystyrene foam with a damp sponge or soft cloth.
Repeat with the remaining slabs until the entire ceiling is covered. At the same time, they check with the lines that were marked at the previous stage.
If necessary, the fragments adjacent to the walls are trimmed with a knife.
The gaps along the edges are covered with plinth.

You need to press one square tightly against the other. If there is a large gap left, a wooden plank or beam is placed against the free edge and moved. It is easy to break the material with your hands.

How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles

If the surface of the ceiling is smooth, the composition is spread as follows:

Distribute around the perimeter at a distance of about a centimeter from the edge (so that the excess does not crawl out into the seams and stain the visible surface).
Make several strokes in the center or diagonally (for reliability).
Wait 1-2 minutes until the product thickens, then apply the tile.

A ceiling made of porous material (concrete) will require a thicker layer, as some will be absorbed.

How to glue tiles near a chandelier

It is necessary to leave space to hang the lamp, for this:

The first four tiles have one corner cut out. In this case, the total area of the site should be sufficient for fastening, but smaller than the size of the plate.
Lay the fragments according to the markings with a central point in the place where the chandelier will hang.
Then continue gluing as usual.

If installation is carried out from the central fragment, a hole of the required size is cut out in it.

How to seal seams and cracks between ceiling tiles

Even after the most careful gluing, gaps remain, since the edges of the tiles are not perfectly smooth and may have defects. To seal them, use sealant, which is sold in cans with an extended nozzle. The tip can easily get into tile joints.

The composition should be white so as not to contrast with the finish. It is best to choose silicone - waterproof.

You can use leftover putty or mastic, but only white.

The nuances of gluing tiles to an uneven ceiling

In such cases use gypsum putty. The installation goes like this:

Dilute the mixture according to the instructions on the package.
Apply enough to the ceiling to cover four tiles. The solution should be laid in a layer no thicker than 3-5 mm. This amount is easy to level out, and the composition does not have time to set.
Apply with a notched trowel, forming grooves.
Apply cladding elements. Align the edges.
By pressing with a building level (preferably half a meter) or a rule, the surface is leveled.
Repeat previous steps. As a result, all fragments should be in the same plane (or without differences noticeable to the eye).

Features of gluing seamless tiles

With this finish, the ceiling looks as if it has been whitewashed or painted. To avoid noticeable transitions, choose panels without sides or chamfers with straight or curved edges. Tiles are chosen of the same thickness or with a pattern in the center.

If you want a seamless finish, the general installation method is the same. But there are some nuances:

The surface must be carefully leveled, otherwise transitions will be noticeable.
The tiles are glued with a minimum distance from each other.
When laying, follow the arrows on the reverse side. They must go in the same direction.
If you paint the ceiling, the seams will become even more invisible.

Is it possible to glue ceiling tiles in the bathroom?

The room is characterized by high humidity, so not any finish is suitable. Only extruded or injection panels are suitable. This coverage:

resistant to moisture;
has heat and sound insulation qualities;
easy to clean;
not susceptible to fungus.

For additional protection, the coating is painted with compounds intended for use in bathrooms (for example, water-based emulsion).

Ceiling tile care

Over time, dust accumulates on the tiles, especially in the recesses of the pattern. In order for the ceiling to maintain its appearance, regular cleaning is required. Dry is needed once a month. A vacuum cleaner or a fluffy brush will come in handy. Wet is done every two months, but only for laminated or painted surfaces. Care for the ceiling using a sponge or cloth.

Water accumulates in the depressions. It must be carefully removed, e.g. paper napkins or other easily absorbent material. If this is not done, streaks will ruin the appearance of the ceiling.

Do not use products containing abrasives or chemically aggressive substances. Will do soap solution or dishwashing liquid.

If your neighbors cause a flood, you must immediately clean the ceiling. Otherwise, rust stains will not be removed.

Repair and restoration of ceiling tiles

Over time, the coating turns yellow (especially in the kitchen) and the surface has to be painted. It's easy to do it yourself by preparing:

paint that can withstand wet cleaning and does not have a strong odor (water-based, latex, acrylic);
foam roller;
brush for corners and other hard-to-reach places.

No need to choose white. But light colors are preferable - a dark ceiling will appear lower. Cool shades make the room more spacious, and warm shades make the room more comfortable. It is important to consider the overall design of the room.

Thus, using foam tiles you can quickly and inexpensively finish the ceiling. The work is easy to do alone, and the variety of products will allow you to choose suitable option for any room.

In the interior of the kitchen

Together with various options finishing the ceiling, which requires the investment of considerable funds, time and the involvement of qualified specialists, there is an equally common and well-proven method.

In a relatively short time, having selected a suitable tile for the room and prepared the ceiling for work, it is easy to understand this simple matter. Also in the article you will find information on how to stick products diagonally.

Finishing

Installing tiles on the ceiling begins with the correct selection of high-quality polystyrene products.

Choice

So:

The geometry of the square tile must correspond to the geometric parameters, that is, all angles must be 90 degrees, and the sides, naturally, must have equal lengths. Without this, it is impossible to achieve high-quality joining - however, the cracks can be sealed with putty or acrylic sealant, but we think no one needs extra dances with a tambourine.
The quality of the raw materials and the structure of polystyrene are assessed; the relief of the product must be uniformly clear and even.
Uniform fine polystyrene grains, without voids, are an indicator of quality

Tiles made in violation of technology are characterized by the presence of defects (irregularities, cavities, sagging or depressions) on the surface of the relief, as well as rounded or wrinkled corners, crumbling edges. It is impossible to lay and join such tiles efficiently, without gaps.
Stickers of products with flaws are used to fill small areas along the walls and in inconspicuous places, if it is possible to cut out the defective part.

Features and types

Modern polystyrene foam tiles are a universal material for finishing ceilings in different rooms:

It is especially popular in the living room, bedroom and office. Here this design looks very advantageous due to the visual increase in ceiling height.
Foam products are used to decorate the ceiling in the kitchen, but a protective laminated coating is applied to it.
When planning the decoration of a children's room, the material is selected with a special sound-absorbing layer.
For the bathroom or toilet, smooth white or slightly corrugated tiles are used.

Such foam products are made in one of three ways, which determine its properties.

May be:

Pressed from foam plastic. To make it, polystyrene blocks are taken and produced by stamping. necessary details. It is different:

low density;
low weight;
thickness ranging from 6 to 8 millimeters.

Extruded(cm. ). Pressed from polystyrene strip. This type has a higher density, the surface is quite smooth and shiny, imitates the appearance surface made of marble, wood and other materials.
Injection. In this case, the raw materials are sintered in special molds without destroying the granules. Its surface acquires beautiful and clear relief patterns, the thickness of the tiles is from 9 to 14 millimeters. It is made with straight shapes around the perimeter, and after gluing to the ceiling, the seams are practically invisible.

Calculation and purchase of necessary materials

The number of tiles for a specific room can be calculated by dividing the area of the room (length*width) by the area of one product. This manipulation is usually promptly carried out by the seller, so you can only stock up on the size of the room before purchasing.
The most common size of ceiling tiles is 50 x50 cm. A typical factory package contains 1 sq.m. (4 pcs.), or 2 sq.m. (8 pcs.).
Considering the possibility of manufacturing defects or defects during installation, especially if ceiling tiles are installed diagonally, depending on the area of the room and installation method, you should purchase 5-10% more material.
It is preferable to purchase tiles from one production batch - the batch number, number of meters and date of manufacture must be indicated; instructions for this are included.

Advice: When purchasing tiles, it is logical to purchase a ceiling plinth made from the same material, similar in design, suitable in width and color in the required quantity.

In the photo - special glue

Gluing ceiling tiles also requires purchasing the optimal adhesive.

How to choose the right glue

Ceiling tiles can be glued to concrete, plaster, brick, wood, metal, plasterboard and other substrates. produced for facade adhesives, tile adhesive mixtures, liquid nails, mastics, silicone sealants, etc.

Attention. Adhesives containing organic solvents (acetone, gasoline, ethers, etc.) dissolve polystyrene.

High-tech assembly adhesives (Titanium, Moment, etc.) have been developed specifically for polystyrene. polymer based. They combine well with any ceiling surface and securely hold the tiles.

When selecting adhesive, first of all, you need to focus on the material from which the tile you purchased is made. Probably the most versatile composition will be “liquid nails” glue.
The price of polymer adhesives is quite affordable.
Ceiling tiles are glued onto a dry, clean, even, durable and primed base.

Tool

Before gluing ceiling tiles, you should stock up on everything you need:

Tapping cord for surface marking. Sold in construction stores, the kit also includes chalk, which is poured into a container and colors the thread for marking landmarks on any surface;
Construction knife It cuts tiles perfectly, it is better to have on hand an option with a blade width of 25 mm, it is much tougher and more convenient to use. In the kit, purchase spare blades, as they become dull during operation;
Adjustable square- an indispensable tool if diagonal tiling is done. This device is fixed at any angle, which greatly simplifies the marking of tiles and eliminates errors during the cutting process;

Caulking gun. It is used to apply liquid nails that will be used for gluing. The tool costs a little, but greatly simplifies and speeds up the workflow;
Tape measure and pencil used when taking measurements and markings. You can use a long ruler, but a tape measure is more convenient;
Since you will have to work on the ceiling, you need a ladder or a table. The height of the device should be comfortable so that you do not rest your head on the surface and do not stand with your arms outstretched.

Ceiling preparation

When carrying out repairs in old premises, use a rigid metal spatula to apply the ceiling base (if it is weak and peels off). There should be no peeling, loose areas, as well as crumbling seams and potholes.

The cleaned ceiling of both the old and new premises is swept with a broom (vacuum cleaner) and treated with a primer.
The dry, primed ceiling is inspected to identify the largest defects (displacement of floor slabs, cracks, potholes, concrete sagging and other pronounced troubles).

All irregularities of more than 3-5 mm are leveled using liquid mixtures (read more). Ceiling tiles can hide potholes and sinks of smaller sizes.
During installation, more careful leveling of the base is required.
After the mixtures have hardened, the repaired areas must be primed again. Wooden, plywood, plasterboard and other ceilings are also subject to primer treatment.
The primed ceiling base provides more reliable interaction with any adhesives.

Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, its location is determined.

Ceiling markings

How can you position

In old-style rooms it is very rare to find a room with regular geometric shapes, so in such rooms it is more rational to use the diagonal gluing method, in which the tile gluing starts from the center of the ceiling or from the installation point of the central chandelier.

How to tile diagonally? It's quite simple!

The first step is the center of the room. This point is located at the intersection of two construction cords stretched from diagonally opposite corners.

Advice! There are often cases when the center of the ceiling and the location of the main chandelier do not coincide. In this case, you should be guided by the lamp, although exceptions are possible.

Next, we decide what we will have in the center - a solid tile or a butt joint. The first option without cutting the tiles is only possible with the chandelier removed.
Next, draw two lines strictly perpendicular to the walls and each other, drawn through the center of the ceiling. They are the ones who will guide us at the beginning of our work.

How to glue diagonally

In the installation option from a chandelier, the corners of four tiles are cut off for fasteners and power supply lighting fixture. At the next stage of work, this place is covered with a decorative overlay of the chandelier.

How to properly glue ceiling tiles - make the cutout so that it is hidden under the decorative overlay of the chandelier

In fact, the main difference between diagonal installation is the trimming of all the outer elements, while the next option allows you to install intact tiles against at least two walls.

Faster and easier installation of slabs - parallel to the walls. It is produced from the wall, which is the most noticeable in the room. This installation method is practical and convenient in small spaces.

Installation

How to stick it correctly

If installation is carried out in winter time, then the tile should lie in room conditions at least two hours.

So:

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, you should carefully read the instructions for using the adhesive composition. The gluing processes for adhesives from different manufacturers may vary slightly.
Some manufacturers of adhesive compositions recommend allowing the adhesive to partially swell for a few minutes after applying the composition to the surface, and only then aligning the parts with the ceiling. Technologies from other adhesive manufacturers do not require this time.
Recommended for everyone a separate type polystyrene tiles, the adhesive composition is applied to the tiles and ceiling dotted, dotted or completely. Some types of tiles have special areas on the mounting side for applying glue.
Using a napkin or foam sponge, tiles with applied glue are pressed tightly along the entire perimeter to the ceiling so that front surface there were no traces of pressing.
Exposed adhesive is removed immediately with a dry and clean cloth.

Sequence of gluing

The first tile is fixed exactly according to the markings, in the center of the ceiling or the location of the chandelier. Following the markings, subsequent products are mounted tightly to the first plate.

Perfectly fits into country style

To comply with the technology, during the installation process it is necessary to control the alignment of the sides and ensure compliance with the pattern, if any.

On the installation side of some types of tiles there are special markings in the form of arrows. When installing such tiles, the arrows should have the same direction, as in the video.

So:

To avoid displacement before the glue polymerizes, it is convenient to temporarily fix adjacent ones with each other using masking (paper) tape.
Rows of slabs adjacent to walls are, in most cases, trimmed. In such cases, measurements are first taken on the ceiling using a tape measure and transferred to the tiles with a pencil. After cutting with a construction knife, the desired fragment is tried on at the designated location and fixed with glue.
At the next stage of painting work, a plinth is installed at the junction of the ceiling and walls. It is possible to attach the plinth with the same glue used to glue the ceiling tiles, but it is more effective to use a special adhesive putty that can hide all the gaps between the plinth and the relief.

Installation of skirting boards

The joints between the plates are filled, if necessary, with white acrylic sealants. Usage silicone sealant not recommended.

Care is carried out using a vacuum cleaner with a soft nozzle, grease traces are removed with alcohol, and other dirt is wiped off with an office washing eraser. It is undesirable for some types of products to get water.

Knowing how to glue ceiling tiles, you can do all the work with your own hands quite efficiently. You should first familiarize yourself with the work of professionals using a thematic video.

Many will agree that it is much more pleasant to be in a room with a beautiful original ceiling than to constantly admire the traditionally white “bare” ceiling tiles. Sometimes decorative painting of the ceiling helps to diversify the interior. But paint does not hide coating defects and does not radically change the appearance of the room.

High-quality ceiling tiles help to quickly and economically transform a room. A variety of colors, intricate relief patterns and strict ornaments, imitation of the texture of stone, wood or brick allows you to create original design any room is finished. Experienced repairmen recommend doing the ceiling finishing yourself before repairing the walls. If replacing the wall covering is not expected, it is advisable to cover the wallpaper with film.

Tiling the ceiling in different ways

Square or rectangular tiles made of polystyrene foam are all the same at first glance. Its front side can be absolutely smooth or fine-grained, with a convex pattern or simply a relief imitation of stone, with a glossy laminated coating or matte without film. A variety of colors and textures of ceiling coverings help realize any design ideas.

Depending on the manufacturing technology, there are three types of ceiling tiles:

The quality of the tiles can be determined by several parameters:

The surface has a uniform grain size, the pattern relief is clear and even over the entire area.
Correct geometric shape: all corners are straight and even, not wrinkled.
There are no flaking or signs of crumbling on the corners and sides.

Before purchasing a tile covering, you need to choose a laying scheme and measure the ceiling area with your own hands. It is recommended to purchase the entire required volume of tile material from one batch and 10-15% more in case of incorrect cutting or breakage during installation.

Knowing the ceiling area and the size of one element, the question arises: how to calculate number of ceiling tiles? To do this, the ceiling area is divided by the area of one tile. For example, a room measures 4.5 m by 3.5 m. Its area is 15.75 square meters. meters. Tiles usually have a size of 50 cm by 50 cm, that is, the area of 1 tile is 0.25 square meters. Divide 15.75 by 0.25 to get 63 pieces. It is advisable to purchase at least 70 pieces.

The ceiling covering, like any building material, must be kept unpacked in the repair room for about a day. In addition to the tile itself, you also need to purchase a decorative rosette for the chandelier and masking joints with the baseboard walls.

From tools you must have: a stepladder, a construction or stationery knife for cutting tiles, twine or other strong thread and a simple pencil for marking the ceiling, a spatula and a sponge for applying glue to the tiles and removing its residues, wooden block to press the tile.

An equally important question: how to glue ceiling tiles? The modern construction market offers a huge range of adhesives:

The ceiling surface for gluing with polystyrene foam board can be any: chipboard, plywood, plasterboard, wood, concrete. For high-quality and durable finishing of the ceiling before installing tiles it is recommended to clean from paint, whitewash, crumbling plaster, wallpaper and the remains of any other coating that interferes with the strong adhesion of surfaces. The old tile covering is removed with a metal spatula starting from any corner. Stains of grease, soot, mold or rust must be removed with an antiseptic solution. High-quality whitewash, provided that it does not crumble or crumble, can simply be primed.

When cracks, craters or irregularities appear, putty is used to eliminate defects. A dry, clean, flat ceiling is covered with a primer. Before preparing the ceiling for gluing, it is necessary to remove the chandelier and insulate the exposed wires.

Methods for gluing ceiling tiles: straight and diagonal

In small rooms, for example, in a bathroom, it is recommended to start pasting the ceiling from the corner to the middle. In spacious rooms, installation is done from the center or from the chandelier. Exists Several ways of gluing ceiling tiles:

Laying diagonally increases the amount of consumables. But when pasting with a diamond shape, the joints are almost invisible, it is easier to lay out an even and beautiful pattern.
Parallel to the walls tiles are glued in straight rows, in a snake pattern or in a checkerboard pattern.

With a chess layout boards of two colors are used. By alternating contrasting colors, an imitation of a chess field is created. By moving the tiles halfway, you can create a unique geometric pattern.

Gluing slabs in two contrasting colors or matching shades in the form of a twisting spiral creates an original graphic design. If you cannot find a tile covering of the required color, you can paint white tiles with water-based paint based on acrylic or latex. Uniform coloring will be ensured by double coating with a foam roller one day after installation.

How to properly glue tiles to the ceiling

To make the drawing look beautiful and neat, it is necessary to correctly outline the area to be pasted and determine its center. You can determine the geometric center by stretching two cords from the corners of the room diagonally. Two lines are drawn through the central point, parallel to the walls and perpendicular to each other. Then the entire space is drawn into squares with a side equal to the width of the tile.

Having marked the entire area, it will become clear how to glue the ceiling tiles. Without seams, special triangular arrows on the back of each tile help to correctly position the pattern.

Sometimes a chandelier is fixed at the central point. More often, the light source is displaced and its location does not coincide with the geometric center of the room. In this case, pasting should start from the lamp, and make markings through the attachment point by drawing two perpendicular lines parallel to the walls. The corners of the rectangles are divided exactly in half, 45°, and diagonal lines are drawn. To bring out the wires, the tile corners are cut off, then the cutout is covered with a decorative rosette of the chandelier.

Tiling the ceiling

With any installation method, whether snake, checkerboard or diagonal, pasting begins from the central point. It is extremely important to glue the first slab correctly and as evenly as possible.

When laying in parallel The first square is glued exactly along parallel lines dividing the space into 4 parts. The angle should coincide with the center point. Three tiles are glued tightly end to end, forming a central square. Then rows of two tiles are laid in the form of a cross. Then the remaining rectangular spaces are covered. The snake is more difficult to install.

When laying diagonally the first square is glued relative to the lines drawn from the corners. Its corner is placed in the center of the room and the following slabs are mounted relative to it. Or the first square is laid exactly in the center, with the marking lines coming out of the corners of the tile.

Small rooms, such as a kitchen, hallway or bathroom, are covered from the corner and do not require preliminary marking. With parallel installation, the first square is glued to the corner and the entire area is glued relative to it. With a diagonal layout, the first square is cut into two triangles. Installation begins by gluing the first triangle into the corner, then a whole square is mounted to it. All rows are laid out similarly.

Tile backing adhesive applied pointwise around the perimeter, stepping back from the edge by 1 cm, and into the center of the tile or with a cross. The applied glue is allowed to thicken a little and set for 1-3 minutes. Then glue the slab, pressing it evenly to the ceiling. Excess glue is removed with a damp sponge or soft cloth. Drafts have a bad effect on the strength of the coupling. Therefore, it is recommended to close all windows and doors in the room. Each subsequent coating element is applied dry and checked against the markings. The tiles of the last rows are cut with a stationery knife on a hard surface. The resulting cracks are sealed with white sealant and, if necessary, painted in the same color as the ceiling.

Irregularities when joining the ceiling covering to the wall wallpaper are covered with skirting boards after the adhesive base has completely dried.

If the room has a hexagon shape or an irregular geometric configuration, installation of the ceiling covering begins from the wall opposite the door, or from the most visible corner.

It is not necessary to finish the ceiling with expensive material. There is a budget material with which you can get good results. These are foam panels. In this article we will tell you how to glue tiles to the ceiling, in what sequence you need to install them in order to get a high-quality coating.

Foam tiles

Before tiling the ceiling, you need to decide on the choice of material. The following types of material are available for finishing the ceiling surface:

pressed foam panels made by stamping. The material has a porous structure, which becomes clogged with dirt during use. It is recommended that after installing the panels, paint them with acrylic paint. The material is inexpensive, brittle and wrinkled, and inconvenient to work with. When choosing this type of coating, you should take the material with a reserve of about 10%. The thickness of a single panel ranges from 6 to 12 mm;
extruded. The panels are small in thickness, only 2-3 mm, but quite dense and expensive. Profiles are produced that imitate wood or natural stone. Foamed polystyrene material is easy to care for, but cannot be painted. The paint literally rolls off the smooth surface;
injection. The difference from other types of tiles is the clearly visible pattern that is obtained during production. The materials can be painted and are not difficult to install. The cost is average.

The easiest way to glue the ceiling is with extruded tiles. This type of coating is easier to maintain.

The usual shape of the panels is square. But, non-standard, rectangular panels are produced. You can cover the ceiling with seamless tiles, the edges of which can be wavy or smooth.

Foam ceiling tiles are considered the most popular material for gluing ceilings. But there are other types of tiles made from the following materials:

acrylic. Such profiles visually increase the height and area of the room;
tree. Environmentally friendly profiles;
ceramics. This type is used in rooms with high humidity;
metal. Effective, durable and non-flammable material, but very expensive.

When choosing profiles for the ceiling, pay attention to how the material combines with the interior and furnishings.

How to choose a tile?

To properly tile the ceiling, you need to choose the right material.

When choosing, you need to pay attention not only to the type of panels. Each element must be the same shape, size and thickness. The angles must be 90 degrees. During installation, if the panel does not meet the requirements, the surface will be defective.

When choosing foam tiles for gluing the ceiling, carefully examine the corners of the product. They should not crumble. The structure of each panel should be fine-grained and uniform, and the pattern should be clearly visible.

Calculation of the amount of material

Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, you need to calculate the amount of finishing material.

The standard side of the tile is 50 cm. This number indicates that you will need 4 panels per 1 square meter. To calculate the required amount of material, you need to multiply the area of the room by 4. The resulting figure must be rounded up.

Buy 10 or 15% more material required quantity. Additional tiles will be used for trim and corners.

To glue the tiles to the ceiling, you will need glue or liquid nails. You can use an adhesive with a rubber base; the consumption will be small. They also use types of glue such as Titan and Moment.

Ceramic tiles

In rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms or kitchens, you can glue ceramic tiles on the ceiling. The material, in addition to moisture resistance, is durable and has a long service life.

First you need to choose the right material, which must be of high quality and meet certain requirements:

the dimensions of each panel must match diagonally, literally down to the millimeter;
To check the panels, you need to place two pieces facing or back to each other. In this position, the corners of the panels are inspected, which should match. Even with a slight discrepancy of 0.5 mm, it will not be possible to perform high-quality tiling of the ceiling;
Then the material is checked like this. The panels are placed on a flat surface and inspected to ensure there are no gaps under them.

There is no need to check all panels, and it is impossible. It is enough to take several panels from different packages for testing.

To glue ceramic tiles to the ceiling, you must perform the following steps:

prepare the work surface. The old ceiling covering is removed. This could be wallpaper, paint, whitewash, layers of old plaster. Regardless of the type of old coating, it must be completely removed. The cleaned surface is primed and puttied;
Next, a cement-based solution is mixed to glue the tiles to the ceiling. The solution in the form of a path is thrown onto the surface of the ceiling, and a profile is attached that acts as a beacon;
You can apply the solution not to the ceiling, but directly to the tiles. After applying the solution, it needs to be smoothed with a spatula and combed;
the tile with the applied mortar is applied to the surface and pressed to shrink;
use a rubber spatula to remove excess mortar that has protruded along the edges of the profile;
When installing each subsequent element, special crosses are placed in the seams to obtain the ideal angle. This way the tile will not move to the side;
Usually the last tiles are trimmed before laying. Use a tile cutter or grinder.

After installing all the tiles, wipe the lined surface with a damp sponge or rag. If you do this after the solution has dried, you will have to put in more effort.

After gluing the tiles to the ceiling and completely drying the surface, begin to grout the seams. For this purpose, a special mixture is purchased. Before grouting, the seams are cleaned with a spatula.

The grout mixture is applied with a rubber spatula using pressing movements. When the grout is dry, wipe the surface with a sponge.

Before installation, you can watch a video on how to properly glue ceramic tiles to the ceiling, and once again study the step-by-step instructions.

Sticking to an uneven ceiling

When planning to tile the ceiling with foam plastic tiles, a problem often arises such as an uneven working surface. If the problem is not solved, the installation simply will not be possible.

You can, of course, stick a ceiling tile onto an uneven ceiling if it is made of polystyrene foam. This option is possible with small surface defects and reliable fixation of the profiles.

To glue ceiling tiles to an uneven ceiling, you need to consider the following points:

the tiles are selected in size in such a way that the dimensions of surface irregularities are taken into account;
It’s better to go with raised profiles, because with such a texture, unevenness will be less noticeable.

To save time and additional materials Glue ceiling tiles to uneven ceilings. Perhaps, if you don’t look closely at the ceiling, this option will even look good. In this case, the floor and walls must be level.

But, if you need to get a high-quality result, then you should not glue ceiling tiles to an uneven ceiling. If the tiles are metal or ceramic, they will not adhere to an uneven base coat.

But, it is advisable to attach even light foam profiles to a prepared, leveled surface. There are two options you can use. Either the ceiling surface is completely cleared of the old coating and leveled, or a metal or foam frame is mounted. The tiles are mounted on a frame structure.

Leveling the surface with putty

To work you need the following tools:

spatula;
beacons;
rule;
grater.

To prepare the ceiling for pasting with foam tiles or a profile made of another material, you need to perform the following steps:

it is necessary to completely remove the old coating using a dry or wet method. The old coating usually crumbles, leaks, mold marks, cracks and crevices are visible. It is advisable to also remove the old layer of plaster;
Next you need to choose what to treat the ceiling with before gluing it with ceiling tiles. Usually, to protect against various microorganisms, a high-quality antiseptic solution is used, which fills the pores of the working surface;
The ceiling, cleared of the old coating, is primed. A deep penetration primer is used;
The next step is to apply the starting layer of putty. Instead of putty, a cement solution with the addition of glue for elasticity is suitable;
then mark out places for beacons;
marking is being done. Using a spatula, along the marking lines, apply a path of putty or cement mortar. The beacon is installed on the track and fixed with a rule. A thread is pulled from the edge of the first beacon, and the remaining marks are set, allowing you to correctly glue the tiles to the ceiling;
putty is applied between the beacons, then leveling is carried out using the rule;
if unevenness appears during the work, then it must be smoothed out with a grater;
After the putty layer has dried, the beacons can be removed. The beacons are removed one day after applying the plaster;
at the final stage, the surface is rubbed with a wet trowel.

You can glue the foam board onto the floors on the third or fourth day after completing the surface leveling work.

Foam frame for installing tiles on uneven surfaces

The frame is suitable for ceiling surfaces consisting of individual blocks. At the same time, the sealed joints protrude, and it will not be possible to properly glue the tiles to the ceiling.

The frame is mounted as follows:

foam sheets are cut into strips;
the strips are glued to the ceiling at such a distance that one tile can be fixed on two foam strips;
where sections of the ceiling are uneven, notches are cut out on the foam strips with a knife.

To make foam strips of the required width, you need to take into account the dimensions of the profiles.

Installation of a foam frame is considered more simple option preparing the working surface. There is no need to wait for the putty layer to dry, as when leveling the ceiling. All the work can be done in a day.

But this option will be less reliable. In addition, only foam tiles can be glued to the ceiling on a foam frame. The design will not withstand heavy ceramic or metal profiles.

Installation

After leveling the working surface, you can begin gluing the ceiling with foam tiles.

There are the following profile layout options:

parallel to the walls. This option is only possible with perfectly smooth walls;
diagonal gluing;
diamond pasting. The corner of the finishing profile is fixed in the center.

After selecting the method, the following installation steps are performed:

markings are made on the ceiling;
Glue is applied to the first tile. The adhesive is applied along the perimeter and diagonals of the profile;
a tile coated with glue is placed in the right place and pressed;
the remaining profiles are fixed similarly to the first;
After installing all the tiles, the seams are puttied or sealed with silicone-based sealant.

Upon completion of installation, ceiling plinths are installed.

You can watch the video below on how to tile a ceiling.

Sticking on a whitewashed ceiling

You can finish the ceiling surface with tiles on almost any base covering. But it is not always possible to glue ceiling tiles to a whitewashed ceiling. In this matter, everything depends on the following points:

type of whitewash;
features of applying old coating.

If chalk whitewash has been applied, then it is better to refuse tiles as a ceiling finish. The material will definitely start to come off.

old finishes easily come off the surface;
there are several layers of lime whitewash on the ceiling that are already peeling off;
Frozen lime was used as whitewash, reminiscent of the chalk coating method.

Important: gluing foam tiles to the ceiling will only work if the old whitewash was applied once and in a thin layer. Another nuance - the old coating holds up normally.

The tiles used in the case of an old whitewash coating can only be light. These can be profiles made of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

Installation of tiles consists of several stages:

preparatory work;
primer of the cleaned surface;
marking;
installation of foam profiles with finishing.

Let's take a closer look at how to properly glue tiles to a whitewashed ceiling.

Preparatory work

Preparatory activities consist of the following:

run your hand over the old whitewash coating and make sure that the whitewash does not smear;
then the surface is cleaned with a brush, then wiped with a damp sponge;
After the previous steps, you need to check again how well the old layer holds up. Using a spatula, remove any suspicious areas of whitewash. If the lime begins to fall off, then you need to remove these parts, capturing a few extra centimeters.

The preparatory work has been completed and priming work can begin.

Applying primer

The primer improves the adhesion between the base ceiling surface and the adhesive.

The primer is applied as follows:

before using a deep penetration primer, the composition is shaken and poured into a special container from which it can be taken with a roller;
the roller is impregnated with primer and lightly squeezed. Then you need to roll over the cleaned whitewash surface of the ceiling. The layer is applied thinly. To reach hard-to-reach areas, use a brush;
you need to wait for the primer layer to dry completely, then apply a second layer.

If large defects are found on the surface, they need to be puttied.

Marking

The quality of the future finishing of the foam cladding depends on the correctly applied markings.

The markup is done like this:

mark a point at the intersection of the ceiling diagonals. This will be the center mark;
Next, lines are marked along which you need to align the foam tiles. The location of these lines depends on the installation method.

You don't have to mark the entire ceiling surface. You can mark only two central lines, then align the remaining profiles along them.

Sticking

Before installing the panels, you need to cut off any burrs from them. It is better to use liquid nails or polymer glue as an adhesive.

Installation is done like this:

installation starts from the center of the ceiling;
glue is applied around the perimeter and center of the profile;
the profile with applied glue is aligned with the markings and pressed against the ceiling;
This is how a square of panels is laid out, and subsequent foam profiles;
gluing in corners, at joints is carried out after trimming the profiles;
After the glue hardens, the gaps between the profiles are puttied.

To finish and seal putty joints, you can paint foam tiles. If the profile has a rough rather than glossy structure, then the surface is pre-primed. The paint is applied in two or three layers using a roller. The first layer goes along the direction of light, the next - across natural light.

Ceiling tiles are a lightweight polystyrene material that has been popular for many years. After all, with its help you can hide defects in the ceiling surface and decorate it with tiles of different shades and with different patterns. The tiles are easy to work with, they are glued easily and quickly. Even a beginner can handle this, provided he knows how to glue ceiling tiles correctly. We will talk about this in detail in this article.

Textured tiles on the ceiling create an atmosphere of aristocratic luxury in the room.

Ceiling tiles can be glued horizontally and diagonally. It is believed that tiles glued diagonally better mask the curvature of the surface. The material lasts a long time without requiring any special care conditions. A damaged element can always be replaced (in the kitchen you often have to replace the tiles located above the stove).

How to glue ceiling tiles: video instructions

How to properly glue tiles to the ceiling

The first thing you need to do is prepare all the materials and tools that will be used. They should be at hand during work. Then you won’t have to be distracted and irritated by little things. You will need a minimum number of tools. Prepare a sharp stationery knife, large scissors for cutting tiles, painter's cord for marking the ceiling (if you don't have it, take chalk). You will also need glue and the actual ceiling tiles, the choice of which we will discuss separately.

Kitchen ceiling tiles don't have to be fancy, but they should be easy to clean.

For preparatory work you will need a sharp narrow spatula, a deep penetration primer, a roller, brushes, rags and plain clean water. If you decide to paint the glued tiles, you will need water-based paint. Most often, ceiling tiles are painted white, but you can paint the surface any color you like, or even use multiple colors. It all depends on your design idea.

Choosing tiles and adhesive

Depending on the production method, the following types of ceiling tiles are distinguished:

pressed (6-8 mm thick), this is the simplest and cheapest tile, you won’t achieve a wide variety of decors, but you can hide minor defects in the ceiling;
injection (9-14 mm), which is considered a higher quality tile;
extruded tiles are the highest quality, they are low-grained, smooth, but are more expensive than other types of ceiling tiles.

Tiles of different colors and textures from different manufacturers are presented on the market building materials

When choosing ceiling tiles, pay attention to the correct shape and dimensional accuracy. If you decide to buy the cheapest pressed tiles, remember that the sizes may not be the same even within the same batch. The discrepancy seems insignificant, but it will be noticeable on the ceiling; you will not be able to achieve a perfect fit. The corner should be straight, not rounded. Only by choosing quality tiles, you can make the seams even. In addition, your work will be easy and pleasant. Try not to skimp on material. Also evaluate the evenness of the edges and the grain of the tile. The edges should be smooth and not crumble. Another sign of high-quality ceiling tiles is the same size of polystyrene grains on them.

Ceiling tiles can be suture or seamless. Seamless tiles has jagged edges that match each other (fits like a key to a lock). In this case, the seams on the ceiling are invisible. The joint tiles have smooth edges and the seams on the ceiling are visible. So think about what tile would be better suited to the design of the room.

Seamless ceiling tiles are a good choice for perfectionists

An important criterion for choosing a tile is the pattern on it. Polystyrene ceiling tiles can be simple and smooth, or they can be decorated with complex patterns. If you have chosen tiles with a complex pattern, in the process of gluing the ceiling a situation may arise, as when gluing wallpaper with a pattern - it will have to be adjusted. This means that you need to take extra tiles. To help you, on the back of the tile, manufacturers show the direction of the pattern with arrows. Tiles with a simple pattern that does not require adjustment can be glued either side to any side.

The main requirements that consumers place on glue are good adhesive properties and the absence of solvents hazardous to humans. Construction stores offer a huge number of brands of glue from domestic and foreign manufacturers intended for products made of polystyrene foam. It is, of course, difficult for the consumer to do right choice.

For gluing the ceiling, glue “Eco-carrying”, “Titan”, “Moment” is often used. The first two adhesives are from Polish manufacturers. Both glues have good adhesive characteristics. But when installing ceiling tiles, the elements must be pressed against the ceiling until the glue sets. “Moment” in this regard has an advantage over Polish adhesives, since it sets instantly. But you will need much more of this glue, which will affect costs. In addition, you will need a special gun for sealants.

Glue and mounting gun — necessary tools for installation of ceiling tiles

Eco-naset adhesive for ceiling tiles is chosen by those who value the harmlessness of building materials

But these three types of glue are only a small part of what is offered in construction stores. In principle, everything sticks well. Therefore, decide which glue to use to glue the ceiling tiles based on your financial capabilities.

Manufacturers offer many different types ceiling tile adhesive

Mastic for adhesive ceilings, and even ordinary putty, can also serve as adhesive for ceiling tiles. Many experts and DIY repair enthusiasts recommend making your own glue by mixing plaster, putty and PVA glue in equal quantities. But remember that plaster dries very quickly, so do not dilute too much adhesive, make enough to work it out in 10 minutes.

Surface preparation

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, you should carry out preparatory work. Clean the ceiling thoroughly and, if necessary, level it. If the ceilings are covered with plywood or chipboard, prime the surface. Before starting work, the ceiling must be clean, grease-free and dry. The adhesive is applied to the tiles pointwise, since the weight of the elements is small. Apply glue from a can or bottle directly to the surface.

In order for the tiles to lay flat and hold securely, it is worth taking care of high-quality preliminary preparation of the surface

Many people have difficulties with tiling the ceiling. electrical wires for lamps. If the chandelier is located in the center of the room, it is better to start pasting from here. Place four tiles around the wire so that there is a gap between them. Cut off the ends of the corners of the tile that touch the wire. Don’t worry that it will be noticeable, everything will be covered by the glass of the chandelier.

If you decide to glue the ceiling from the wall, and not from the center, then on the tile that covers the exit point of the electrical wire, you need to make a hole for the wire. In this case, you need to glue the tiles row by row, starting from the wall, and when you reach the location of the chandelier, measure the distance from the beginning of the tile to the point where the wire exits, make a hole in the tile, turn off the power to the apartment and pull the wires into the hole made. Even if the hole is a little larger, it will also be closed by the glass of the chandelier.

How to beautifully tile a ceiling: finishing options

Decide exactly how you want to place the tiles on the ceiling. There are many options for covering the ceiling with tiles. It all depends on the features of the room and your imagination. In any case, a small amount of adhesive is applied pointwise to the tile, the element is pressed to the ceiling surface, and held for several minutes. During this time, the glue sets to the surface and the tiles are securely held on the ceiling.

Diagonally, if the chandelier hangs in the center of the ceiling

This happens quite rarely. But if this is your case, marking is easy to do. Pull two threads diagonally, mark the point of their intersection. This will be the center, which should coincide with the exit point of the wire for the chandelier. Draw two lines through the center perpendicular to each other. Thus, the ceiling surface is divided into 4 equal parts. The first square is glued so that one of its corners is located exactly in the designated center of the room. Next we move along the drawing. The tiles should be glued to the ceiling closely, without leaving gaps or seams; wipe off any remaining adhesive with a dry cloth.

Tiling the ceiling starts from the center of the room - this makes it easier to avoid overlaps and mismatches

What if the chandelier is not in the center of the room?

The tiles are glued similarly to the first case, but the markings are done slightly differently. Two perpendicular lines are drawn through the point where the chandelier hangs. These straight lines should be parallel to the walls of the room. In the resulting right angles we draw lines at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, we glue the ceiling tiles in the same way as in the first option.

How to glue ceiling tiles with a snake

To do this, you will need ceiling tiles of two colors. It is important to choose two colors that go well together. Mark the ceiling surface as in the first or second option. The tiles are glued from the center according to the drawing.

“Snake” is one of the common methods of laying ceiling tiles

How to glue tiles to a ceiling in a checkerboard pattern

You should also start from the center of the room, which we find by drawing diagonals. It is very important to arrange the elements so that they are strictly parallel to the walls, otherwise the overall appearance of the ceiling will be spoiled. There are times when it is not practical to glue ceiling tiles from the center of the room. For example, if the room is small, when tiling the ceiling from the center there will be a significant overuse of tiles. Or in cases where the room is narrow and long (a corridor, for example), it can be difficult to correctly mark the ceiling and glue the tiles in the center parallel to the walls. In this case, it is better to glue the ceiling tiles, moving from the edges to the center.

Tiles laid in a checkerboard pattern always produce the desired decorative effect

Possible difficulties when working with ceiling tiles

Difficulties may arise due to mismatched tile sizes. These dimensional errors are, at first glance, unnoticeable, but when the design is strictly adjusted, they become noticeable. Therefore, do not glue the tile until you are sure that its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the previous tile. If there are any discrepancies, cut off the excess tiles with a paper cutter or utility knife. You should cut along a ruler, then the cut will be even. Experts recommend cutting ceiling tiles by placing them on a sheet of corrugated cardboard. Cardboard from packaging is perfect for household appliances.

Another problem that often arises when tiling a ceiling is the gaps between the tiles and the wall. This occurs due to the unevenness of the walls. If this distance does not exceed 15 mm, you don’t have to worry about it - everything will be covered with ceiling plinths (fillets), which are glued along the entire perimeter of the ceiling.