Projects of bathhouses with an attic 5x5 layout. Beautiful designs of bathhouses with an attic. Types of baths with an attic

Log bathhouse with attic

Log cabin catalog

Price: 195,000 rub.

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Characteristics

Technology: hand-cut log
Dimensions (m): log house 5 by 5 with attic
Total area: 25 m²
Construction period: 4-5 days

Description:

A log house (diameter 220-240 mm), with an internal partition, is made into a floor-mounted carriage.
Floor joists, ceiling beams (log). Timber rafter system: 50x150.

The roof is attic (increased area of ​​the second floor), only the frame of the common room is completed, roof height: 3.70 m.
Ceiling height: 2.10-2.20 m.



Didn't find the right size? Do you have your own project or a ready-made foundation? We can quickly produce a log house with an attic to order according to your project.


* Please note that prices include installation and delivery.
* Delivery within 100 kilometers from the Moscow Ring Road (Moscow), to the south of the Leningrad region, as well as partially to the Kaluga and Tula regions - free!

Despite the fact that beautiful designs for bathhouses with an attic are presented in abundance in the public domain, most homeowners still want to have a unique design for their building. The desired project can be ordered from a specialized company or compiled independently. But for this, many factors must be taken into account, starting from the material from which the structure will be built, and ending with zoning.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse with an attic is a relatively new solution that has only recently gained recognition. Using the attic space opens up many possibilities:

  • you can equip a rest room;
  • allocate space for a billiard room;
  • build a gym;
  • leave the attic for storing small items: towels, bath brooms and the like.

However, it is best to turn the attic into a room in which you can spend time pleasantly. Organizing the space above the bathhouse has many advantages:

  • This way you can save space by rationally using all available square meters.
  • A large bathhouse with such a superstructure, for example, with an area of ​​8 by 9 m, can be used as a full-fledged guest house, which will solve the problem of accommodating a large number of friends or relatives.
  • The attic can be converted into a veranda by completely glazing the end walls, or you can supplement it with a terrace if you make an exit to open balcony. Such specific solutions will not leave anyone indifferent.
  • Baths with attic floors look much more attractive than low one-story buildings. They fit better into any environment.

By using the space under the roof, it becomes possible to save on heating costs. If everything is calculated correctly, the attic floor will be heated by a sauna stove and will always have a comfortable temperature. If the bathhouse is used only in the summer, then you can use the attic in the summer as a living room. Another solution is to equip it summer kitchen With beautiful view to the surrounding nature.

Project

Today, large designs of bathhouses with an attic are in demand:

  • 5x5 m;
  • 5x6 m;
  • 6x4 m;
  • 6x6 m;
  • 6x7 m;
  • 6x8 m;
  • 6x9 m.

It is worth looking at some drawings, to understand exactly how the plan for a bathhouse with an attic is built and what professional architects focus on.

  • Bathhouse with attic measuring 6 by 4 m has all the necessary compartments on the ground floor. There is a steam room, a washing room, a relaxation room, and even a terrace. A small attic room can be converted into anything, but it is best to make it either an additional bedroom or a billiard room. So after the bath procedures you can have a pleasant time. Please note that this project is not designed for people to live permanently in the attic (even guests), since the layout of this 4x6 m bathhouse does not include a toilet.

  • Bathhouse with attic measuring 5 by 7 m has a full bathroom. Please note that a building with an attic is still considered to be one-story, and the attic floor on the plan is called an attic, and not a second floor. The second floor has a small area due to the fact that the bathhouse is covered with a gable roof, under which there is almost no space left to build a full-fledged room.

  • The design of this bathhouse with an area of ​​6x5 m does not provide a large space for bath procedures. It is most suitable for constructing a residential building. So, the roof here is attic, freeing up maximum space for rooms, so there are two of them under the roof. In addition to this, there is a large room rest area on the ground floor, part of which can be used as a kitchen.

Materials

In general, baths can be built from completely different materials: timber or rounded logs, aerated concrete, brick, SIP panels - in a word, from almost anything. An attic superstructure is a completely different matter. You can’t make it out of anything, and there is a very simple explanation for this: the foundation may not hold up and sag under the weight of the structure.

That is why it is important to initially indicate in the plan the desire to add an attic. This way it will be possible to calculate everything so that the foundation can withstand and not sag, and the walls do not crack.

If you decide to build an attic only after the bathhouse has already been built, it is strongly recommended to take a closer look at lightweight materials: frame panels, gas or foam blocks. They weigh significantly less, and will cope with their duties no worse, especially since the main protective function will still be performed by the roof.

It happens that the owners of a site build a bathhouse with an attic for reasons of economy, but at the same time do not want to give up quality construction. In this case, the first floor itself can be built from high-quality logs, and for the attic floor, a simpler option can be left, for example, a laminated log frame. Since the second floor is not subject to the same colossal loads, there is no need to worry that such wooden walls rot or crack.

It is important to pay attention to insulation materials, as well as the caulking of the entire structure, if it is made of a log house.

Tree

The best material For the construction of baths, no matter how many storeys, wood is rightfully considered. Since ancient times, our ancestors have used this particular raw material, since it has many positive features:

  • It is resistant to temperature changes. Specially selected wood, laid properly, is better able than other materials to resist temperature changes, which are essential in a steam room.
  • Has a beneficial effect on the human body. Evaporation essential oils made from some types of wood have a calming effect on a person’s psychological background, and also lead to natural cleansing of the respiratory tract.
  • Wood retains heat well. Wooden buildings will not cool down for a long time, so you can take a steam bath longer. In addition, the heat is moist and comfortable, the heat is not harsh.
  • Wood is an environmentally friendly material, which a priori speaks in its favor.
  • Usually, wooden structures perfectly withstand the weight of superstructures, especially if they were built from high-quality wood. This means that for wooden bath the attic can be built a little later than the start of its operation.

The biggest disadvantage wooden baths with an attic is their high cost, but by choosing an alternative material for the attic you can save significant money. Wood is also a fire hazard, so you need to think about possible evacuation from the attic floor.

Brick

Brick, unlike wood, does not burn, but its positive qualities are not limited to this:

  • Like wooden baths, brick ones last a very long time. Their service life, if the construction is made of high-quality raw materials using all the rules, exceeds 50 years.
  • Brick is an environmentally friendly material. In its production, only natural substances are used.
  • Objectively speaking, it is almost impossible to build a bathhouse with a complex, intricate shape from timber. Another thing is brick. When using this material, it is possible to build any intricate structure, while the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls do not suffer, since the joints will still remain completely sealed.

Brick baths also have a number of disadvantages:

  • Heating such a bathhouse is much more energy-intensive. Brick heats up much more slowly than wood, but cools down several times faster.
  • It will be necessary to provide good waterproofing, since brick quickly becomes damp when exposed to moist air.
  • Brick costs a lot, so you need to prepare decent money for the construction of a brick building with an attic floor.

Bathhouses with an attic, made entirely of brick, need to be fully planned. Brick is a fairly heavy material, and the base underneath it may simply not support the weight of the structure with the superstructure.

There are a number of materials that can be used to create an attic without greatly increasing the weight of the entire bathhouse building.

Gas and foam blocks

Foam blocks or aerated concrete are a bad solution for building a bathhouse itself. This is due to the fact that under the influence of moisture, materials quickly disintegrate, therefore, such walls will not last long. As for the attic floor, where the air is much drier, blocks are a great idea. Due to their positive qualities, they are perfect for lining an attic.

Advantages:

  • Block material is much cheaper than brick or wood. In addition, construction from it is a fairly simple process, so you won’t need a lot of money to pay workers.
  • Thanks to the lightness of the blocks, construction can generally be done alone. The same lightness plays into the hands in the case of excessive load. Thanks to the block attic floor, this will not occur.

  • Both aerated concrete and foam blocks are fire resistant. They do not burn, therefore they are fireproof.
  • Although the blocks cannot be called an environmentally friendly material, they do not adversely affect the atmosphere. Due to their synthetic origin, the blocks are not attacked by rodents or insects, and mold fungi do not grow in them.
  • The blocks are large. Due to this, all work is carried out in the shortest possible time. They are easy to saw, giving them the desired shape, which makes the work even easier.
  • Although the material is “afraid” of temperature changes, high temperature conditions It holds up well without cracking or deforming.

Block material has more than enough disadvantages. That is why it is rarely used for the construction of baths. As mentioned above, blocks do not tolerate temperature changes. This material itself easily releases heat, so high-quality thermal insulation will be required, and this greatly increases construction costs. However, in cases where the blocks are used for the attic, these disadvantages are not so important.

Frame

Assembling a frame for subsequent cladding with inexpensive panels is not a new solution. Builders generally speak positively about this method, since the construction process itself is greatly simplified. You don’t have to put in any special effort, as is the case with wood or brick. Frame construction Suitable for both the entire bathhouse and only the attic floor. The material retains heat well: its performance is not inferior to its wooden counterparts. However, there are also some nuances.

By her own frame bath without finishing it does not look particularly attractive, so considerable investments will be required in its decoration both outside and inside. In addition, for winter use you need to be well insulated frame walls, and this will also cost a pretty penny.

Not every material is suitable here: it is important that it be fire-resistant, otherwise the frame will easily burst into flames at the slightest exposure to an open flame, since the materials for the frame are not fire-resistant.

So, there is not much difference in price when they are engaged in construction frame bath or log. But there are strong differences in weight. The frame structure weighs 5-6 times less, therefore, there is almost no load on the foundation. If you build a frame attic floor over an existing bathhouse, this will not harm the foundation. You can also save money on insulation here, since the roof will perform the main heat-insulating function.

SIP panels

The construction of structures from SIP panels began in Canada, and since this country has a climate close to ours, Russian companies quickly adopted the technology.

You can build a bathhouse with an attic from SIP panels in record time, and they will have a lot of advantages, including:

  • The low weight of finished buildings allows them to be erected on lightweight foundations, for example, strip foundations, which are the easiest to build.
  • The panels themselves already have a fairly decent level of thermal insulation due to the components they contain. Yes, on attic floor You can do without additional insulation.

  • Correct installation guarantees the absence of drafts, dampness and cold in the room due to the complete sealing of all seams.
  • What is important for baths is the moisture resistance of the material. Some of the SIP panels are moisture-resistant, but not all, so you need to pay attention to the presence of appropriate markings.
  • This is not to say that the panels are flammable. However, they are made of wood, so the use of basic measures fire safety Necessarily.
  • SIP panels have good soundproofing qualities, which is important when constructing an attic for a living room, in particular a bedroom. This way, street sounds will not penetrate into the room and you can relax peacefully.

SIP panels have a number of significant disadvantages, which are mainly associated with their installation and financial component. You won't be able to install it properly yourself. You will definitely need assistants, or better yet, a team of professionals. The cost of the material is by no means so low, especially if it is of high quality. Aesthetically, such baths also do not look very attractive, so money will be required to decorate them.

Room zoning

The attic can be adapted to any room, or you can combine several zones here at once. The most popular options include the following:

  • Restroom. Zoning provides places for passive and active recreation. Here you can organize billiards by placing comfortable sofas or armchairs nearby so that you can sit comfortably and just relax.

  • Veranda + living room. When an attic is turned into a glassed-in veranda, it is always advantageous, especially when the bathhouse is surrounded by picturesque surroundings. In such an atmosphere it will be pleasant to drink tea after the steam room.

  • Living room + kitchen. If space allows, then you can organize a full-fledged living space here. However, difficulties may arise with communications, in particular gas. Some craftsmen manage to adapt a sauna stove for kitchen needs, but you shouldn’t go to such extremes. It is better to simply organize a dining room in the attic, placing a sofa bed nearby for relaxation.

  • Gym. If you make good ventilation in the attic and install several exercise equipment, you will be able to create a full-fledged sports room. Since there is a washroom downstairs, cleaning yourself up after sports will not be difficult.

Be the owner of a country plot with a dacha or a cottage for permanent residence, and at the same time not have your own bathhouse - probably few people will agree to this. It’s not just about the opportunity to wash thoroughly in comfortable conditions created for yourself, without fear of any unsanitary conditions. Since ancient times, a bathhouse has been almost the most obligatory element of any farmstead, a symbol of the thoroughness of the owners, a kind of personal medical institution, and often a favorite vacation spot for the whole family and meetings with closest friends.

If the area is large, then the owners can afford a lot in terms of choosing a bathhouse. But what about those who have limited space? It’s okay, and in a small “patch” of the building it is quite possible to fit not only the bathhouse itself, but also an additional living space. An example is a 5x4 bathhouse with an attic, the design of which will be discussed in this publication.

It would seem that what can be accommodated in such a small area? Don't rush to conclusions...

If you give in internet search request for baths of the required size, then, for sure, you will receive many options coming from specialized companies engaged in the production and assembly of ready-made building kits. There is plenty to choose from here - in terms of wall material, layout, degree of insulation of the room, and numerous other parameters.

However, it also happens that the owners are not fully satisfied with the layout of the bathhouse building. Another situation is that the family budget does not allow for such an acquisition at once, and future owners are forced to gradually accumulate stocks of building materials in order to later, when ready, build a bathhouse themselves.

In this case, why not try to plan your own construction? It is clear that any capital structure requires architectural calculations - but they can be ordered, already having outlines of your own project in hand. And every owner of the site can carry out initial sketches and calculations independently, if he has basic knowledge of mathematics, drawing skills, and has a rough idea of ​​what he wants to get in the end. And if you have experience working with graphical applications on a computer, then the task becomes even easier.

And having in my hands finished project, you can either independently select the necessary materials, or contact the same company, where they can produce a complete set according to the drawings CT for construction.

The article will not technological processes of construction are considered– separate sections of the site are dedicated to this. The main goal is to show how to correctly provide in your project everything necessary for a small wooden bathhouse with an attic.

Bathhouse foundation

Any building needs a reliable foundation, the role of which is played by the foundation. Which option is preferable?

  • For a small bathhouse, a shallow one is quite suitable strip foundation. It can be erected on almost any soil, and its depth, tape width, degree of reinforcement, etc. - already depend on the size of the building and the characteristics of a particular site.

Using a strip foundation is not always profitable

For all its advantages, it is still not without its shortcomings. Thus, significant excavation, high consumption of cement, sand, gravel, especially considering that the recommended base height for a bathhouse is about 500 mm. Absolutely not profitable It will be on a rough area, where there is a significant level difference in the building area. And one more minus - concrete will require no less to fully mature, and during this period all further construction work is suspended.

  • Another type of concrete foundation is a monolithic slab. Although it is not afraid of seasonal soil fluctuations, it will require a lot of building materials, and for a small wooden bathhouse this option seems excessive.

  • A columnar foundation can significantly reduce construction costs. Construction Materials. In addition, it allows you to raise the building itself to the desired height, and helps to “fit” into a moderately rough area. The supports are made of bricks on concrete base, or fill their solution completely or using pipes. The pillars are placed at the corners and along the outer walls of the building and, additionally, for reinforcement, along one or more lines inside the quadrangle.

It would seem to be the optimal solution, but it is also not without vulnerabilities. So, on heaving, clay or loamy soils, especially with close proximity of aquifers, such a foundation will be unreliable. In addition, although the volume of concrete poured is low, its maturation period does not decrease at all.

  • A pile-screw foundation is probably the best of all existing ones for a bathhouse. Piles screwed into the ground to a depth below the freezing level are not afraid of winter heaving and close proximity to water. The sections of piles protruding above the surface can be brought to the same desired height even with a strong difference in ground level, and connected to each other by grillages, they become an excellent basis for attaching beams or logs of the lower frame.

To install such piles, the efforts of 3 ÷ 4 people will be required without the use of special equipment; excavation work is kept to a minimum. Although the technology involves filling the pipe cavities with concrete solution, it is not at all necessary to wait for it to mature - you can immediately proceed to further installation. Thus, in a few days the foundation will be ready.

So, the starting position is along the axes of the walls of the bathhouse, the given size is 4 × 5 m.

The thickness of the walls, just for example, is 250 mm.

The plan of the bathhouse must first be “fitted” into the area

In the case considered in this article, nine supports will be sufficient - four at the corners of the building, one additional one in the center of each side, and one at the intersection of the center lines of the building:

The supports are connected by longitudinal and transverse jumpers - grillages. Usually a channel is used for this.

After installing the lower crown beam along the grillages, you can install basement beams or joists immediately (depending on the type and height of the planned floor). After appropriate waterproofing and insulation, they will become the basis for the flooring.

Schematically in the complex - supports, beams, joists and flooring

When doing foundation work on the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure. This concerns the height of the base and the advance thought out of the used water drainage system.
A separate article on our website is devoted to the nuances of construction.

External walls and internal partitions. Space planning

What to build the walls of a wooden bathhouse from? Nowadays, there are several options for this.

  • An ordinary log house is in old Russian traditions. Usually made from coniferous trees and wood, which creates a unique microclimate in the bathhouse. Diameter br even - from 200 to 250 mm.

Methods for laying the crowns of a log house can be different - “with the remainder”, “in the corner”, “in the hook”, “in the head”, “in the paw” - all this requires considerable carpentry skill, that is, without the help of a specialist given It will hardly be possible to get by at the work stage.

A log house involves caulking the cracks between the logs - initially, during the laying of the crowns, and final, after the walls have subsided. The materials used are jute, linen tow, felt, moss (“cuckoo flax”) and other natural materials.

  • Walls made of timber - it is believed that they are much easier to build, since the blanks, with high-quality material, do not require special carpentry finishing, with the exception of corners lock connections. It is easier to lay insulating material between the beams, since they should fit tightly against one another.

Prices for timber

The design itself is lighter - the material is used in sizes from 100x150 to 150x150 mm, rarely - 200 mm.

  • Much more expensive, but incomparably more convenient - profiled beams, for example, the so-called "carriage". Such bars or logs are profiled, that is, they have a “tongue-groove” or “bowl” system of mutual coupling.

Very easy to use high-quality profiled timber, “carriage”

When laying the crowns of profiled timber with the simultaneous installation of insulation, a solid surface is obtained with practically no serious cold bridges. Often, sets of such beams are sold with ready-made roll insulation materials, which are precisely calculated to fit the size of the grooves. To “bundle” the corners, special notches are used, for example, “Norwegian lock”.

Prices for profiled timber

profiled timber

  • Recently, frame structures have become increasingly popular, including in the construction of bathhouses.

On foundation, along the lower piping belt, mounted wooden frame, which is then sheathed outside and inside with natural or composite materials, and a thick layer of insulation is laid between its uprights. Of course, such a design is much cheaper and easier to implement, and with correct assembly and high-quality thermal insulation, the appearance differs little from the real thing wooden log house and fully copes with the task of maintaining heat in the bathhouse. True, whatever you say, it is still not able to convey the real atmosphere of an array of natural coniferous wood - the presence of “foreign” insulation affects it.

  • For internal partitions in a bathhouse, either natural beams, profiled or ordinary, or a frame structure can also be used. They often put up a “five-wall” - with internal wall, made of the same material as the external ones.
  • The type of wood is also important. For a bath, with its high humidity content, optimal solution there will be coniferous wood. Pine is famous for retaining heat very well indoors. A spruce log house will be less susceptible to putrefactive processes. Fir is characterized by increased strength and a pronounced antifungal effect. Most the best option, of course, larch - this wood is practically not afraid of water, and under the influence of moisture it only becomes stronger. However, the cost of timber or larch logs is very high, and not everyone can afford such a luxury. In addition, when heated strongly, larch gives off a too cloying resinous smell, which may not suit everyone.

However, experienced masters They still give recommendations not to spare any expense, and at least lay the most vulnerable place - the two lower crowns - from larch.

Deciduous tree species are practically not used for bathhouses, with the exception, however, of aspen, which has a natural antiseptic effect and thereby improves the health of the bathhouse atmosphere.

  • However, let's return to our project. With the foundation and outer contour of the building sorted out, it’s time to outline the interior spaces.

In order to carry out full-fledged bath procedures, the bathhouse must have a steam room, a washing room, a relaxation room or a dressing room. It would be nice if, when entering from the street, a person gets not right away in the dressing room, and in the vestibule - this will reduce the loss of precious heat. Let's try to place all these rooms in our project, for example - like this.

These sizes should be quite sufficient. The length of the steam room allows you to arrange two-meter floors, which will accommodate even a tall person at full height and will easily leave room for a stove-stove. A washing area in a small family bath does not need too large an area - you can install a shower tray or stall standard size(900×900 mm) and hang the tipping tank from cold water for rolling. The area of ​​the dressing room will allow you to install a table with chairs (couch) for several people. In the hallway, in the free space, you can install shelves for storing bath utensils.

For external walls (for example), a material of 250 mm thickness was used; for internal walls, 100 mm would be sufficient.

We are planning to install doors. At the entrance you can install a wider door, 800 or 900 mm, with a height of 2000 mm. Doors to the washing room and steam room of this size are not needed - a 600 mm leaf with a height of 180 mm is enough. At the same time, you should remember the recommendation - all doors in the bathhouse, with the exception of the entrance one, should have a threshold of approximately 150 mm - in order to exclude “creeping” drafts along the floor.

Pay special attention - all doors, without exception, are placed so that they open towards the exit from the bathhouse. This is a special requirement safety: in emergency situations, it is much easier to jump out, and a “traffic jam” will not be created in the doorway.

Since the bathhouse is located on a base with a height of 500 mm, plus the lower crown beam has another 200 mm, it is necessary to provide a ladder, at least the simplest one - wooden. In the example under consideration, these are three steps (the role of the fourth is played by the floor surface), each 175 mm high and 233 mm deep.

As planned, we are planning a bathhouse with an attic. This means that it is necessary to place a ladder to climb into the attic space. Performing it outside is not too good decision. Go out after bath procedures outside, in the cold, wind, rain, it is extremely inconvenient to climb into a residential attic. Let's try to install a staircase - there is a convenient place for this, formed by the separation of the hallway wall.

Here the stairs practically do not bother anyone. The advantage of its convenience is that it rests on the outer wall and on the partition. Installation of such a staircase structure is much easier than just a “hanging” one. The result was 11 steps, each 255 mm high. It’s a bit steep, but here you can’t really run away.

You need to think about ventilation (ventilation) of the premises and their natural lighting. So, we “install” windows. Two windows in the rest room will give good illumination, one will illuminate the staircase to the attic, and one more will illuminate the vestibule.

Windows in the rest room and vestibule - for ventilation and natural light...

The height from the floor to the window sill is 1100 mm, the window height is 1000 mm with a width of 700. In the vestibule there is a smaller window - 500 × 500 mm.

This arrangement and number of windows is not a dogma at all, and if someone thinks the number or size is excessive, then they can be changed. But it is also necessary to provide a window in the washing room - it should not be large, since it will mainly serve to ventilate the room.

... and one small one in the washing room - for ventilation

The drawing shows a window at a height of 2 meters from the floor, dimensions 500 × 300 mm.

IN general outline The layout of the bathhouse itself is complete. You can try to visualize what we got:

Everything is quite convenient and rational. You can move on to the attic structure.

Attic - rafter system and roofing

Roof installation and roofing is an extremely important and voluminous issue that requires consideration in separate publications. Here, more attention will be paid to the choice of design in relation to the project already being developed.

If a bathhouse is planned with an attic, then, most likely, this means a full-fledged living space, which, for example, can serve to accommodate visiting guests. In addition, it will be very convenient for the owners themselves to relax after a good bath, without going outside, but by going upstairs to a furnished room.

This is said in order to make it clear that the attic should not be a dark “nook” in which you cannot turn around or stand up to your full height. This means you need to carefully calculate the parameters rafter system.

So, the attic floor beams are laid and secured onto the finished walls, a flooring is made, which will later be brought to the level of the insulated bath ceiling (attic floor). Above there is a rafter system, which rests on beams or on the upper crown (mauerlat). What type of rafter system should I choose?

  • There’s no need to even talk about a single-slope house - on the scale of such a small bathhouse, it would be simply impossible to build an attic.
  • A gable roof is a very big question, and here's why. Let's look at the diagram:

This is a drawing done to scale. With a span of 4 meters and a normal roof slope (45°), the height in the ridge part will be only 2 meters - and this does not take into account the structure itself and the necessary insulation of the roof slopes from the inside. Even if we assume that it is possible to hem the ceiling at a height of 1800 mm (which in itself is not enough), then we still end up with an extremely narrow “pencil case”, only 500 mm wide (green rectangle). There is simply no need to talk about any amenities in such an attic.

Of course you can do it gable roof with a steeper slope. But here, too, the possibilities are unlimited. We increase the angle of the slope to 60°, and it will be possible to walk in the center of the attic without bending, but also in a strip of only about one and a half meters. But the height of the ridge has already increased to 3, 6 meters! And every even slight increase in the angle will lead to a sharp increase in bulkiness roofing structure, its complication, weighting, since long runs will require lumber of a larger cross-section. Plus, the windage of the roof, that is, its exposure to wind load, is rapidly increasing.

  • It’s a different matter if you plan the attic according to the “broken pattern” shown in the figure below.

The “broken” design gives a huge gain in usable space

The lower rafter legs are placed at an angle of 75°, the upper ones - 30° to the horizon. The result is a quite decent room with a height of 2 and a width of 2.9 meters, with a total length of the building of about 5 m. And at the same time, the total height of the entire roof structure is only 2.86 m, which is not so much.

Even on a small building, the attic “broken” roof looks very organic

Of course, such a rafter system will be more difficult to implement, since it includes a considerable number of load-bearing and reinforcing parts.

The main elements of the “broken” rafter system

1 – attic floor beams.

2 – side drains (the cladding of the attic walls often runs along them).

3 – run.

4 – attic floor beams.

5 – lower rafter legs.

6 - upper rafters.

7 – central pillars.

8 - ridge beam.

For the rafter system, you need high-quality lumber - beams or boards (round timber is less commonly used). The cross section of the rafters depends on the span length (distance between two support points of the rafter leg) and installation step. There are corresponding formulas for calculation, but you can also use average values, for example, from the table below:

Section of the rafter leg, mmDistance between support points (span length), mm
3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
Board
40×1401400 1000 - - -
50×1801500 1200 900 - -
50×200- 1500 1100 700 -
60×220- - 1200 900 -
Round timber, Ø mm
130 1000 700 - - -
140 1400 1000 700 - -
150 1500 1300 900 - -
160 - 1400 1000 700 -
170 - 1400 1100 - -
180 - - 1500 1200 900
timber
160/200 1300 1000 700 - -
180/200 - - 1000 - -
200/200 - - 1200 1000 700
220/200 - - 1500 1300 900

The design is quite complicated to implement, but it is worth it. Even over a small bathhouse 5 × 4 meters is obtained big room, where you can easily organize several sleeping places or a cozy lounge for relaxation.

In relation to our project – quite a spacious room

The gables on both sides are covered with wood with mandatory insulation, and windows are cut into them. In addition, if desired, you can install skylights on roof slopes - this innovation has already received wide recognition among homeowners.

You can, of course, change the design of the roof, placing the gables on the wide, 5-meter side of the house, and the slopes on the short side. True, in this case you will have to think about a different location for the stairs to the attic - so that it is preferably located along the gable part.

Roofing is at the owners' choice. Slate has already lost its former popularity, a simple roofing material will “depreciate” too much appearance built bathhouse. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio, it is probably metal tiles or roofing sheeting, they look original and will last quite a long time.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tiles

By and large, the main design of the bathhouse structure has been completed. Of course, there is still a lot of work to be done.

First of all, you need to think about the model and location of the sauna stove. It is recommended to opt for the option of a ready-made, factory-assembled stove-heater, in which the combustion part can be placed in the dressing room.

In the steam room there are only heated surfaces and a red-hot heater, and from the rest room-restroom it is easier to fire the fire and control the combustion. In addition, if equipped with a transparent fireplace glass, this will add special comfort to the room.

How to install a stove in a wooden bathhouse?

Installing a heating device in a wooden structure always requires special precautions. How to do it correctly - in a special publication on our website.

Gasket issues engineering communications, waterproofing and insulation, finishing and equipping the bathhouse with the necessary accessories and accessories are not discussed in this article - these are topics for separate detailed discussions.

Video: construction of a log bathhouse with a “broken” attic

In our age of high technology, the popularity of the conventional building for washing with hot steam has not waned at all. They begin to build it immediately after completion. The owners of small summer cottages are of particular interest in the 5x5 bathhouse project. Its implementation is affordable for the average family. Today, popular or more expensive ones are made of timber.

Design and layout of a bathhouse measuring 5x5

Initially, determine the location of the bathhouse. If, then tall, dense thickets of bushes and trees are desirable around. They will protect vacationers from prying eyes.

Usually the bathhouse is visited at the end of the day. Therefore, if its windows face southwest, then even in cool weather, when a vacationer comes here after work, he finds himself in a bright and sun-warmed dressing room.

Before construction, it’s tedious to decide:

  • Build a bathhouse with or without an attic;
  • What premises are required;
  • What should be their minimum area?
  • Which location is most comfortable?

The answers to these questions should be given by the layout of the 5x5 bathhouse. Its classic version:

  • Tambour;
  • Locker room;
  • Steam room;
  • Washing;
  • Restroom;
  • Bathroom.

Layout of a bathhouse made of 5×5 timber

Tambour

It is a must, especially if there are lovers of strong steam in winter time. The vestibule cuts off the heat and moisture of the premises from the cold air of the street. Otherwise, icing in severe frost will not allow you to open the door. Even the smallest bathhouse makes it possible to allocate at least 1 m2 for the entrance room.

Locker room

In small bath rooms, she is allocated 10 m2. Hangers, a mirror, and furniture are installed here, on which it will be convenient not only to sit down, but also to lie down. Here, after the steam room, you can take massage treatments.

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Bath layout options

Washing

Its presence has become possible since the advent of running water. Until this time, people washed in the steam room with water prepared in advance in a large barrel. If the family is large, then they take turns washing in this room. In this case, 6 m2 is enough for it. And if the washroom is just a shower, then a smaller area will do. It will be equipped so that there is enough space for sheets, towels and everything that is required for washing.

Steam room

A 5x5 bathhouse should allocate at least 6 m2. Four people can comfortably steam in it at the same time. Why can sunbeds be placed on two floors? Moving to the top shelf is a transition to a higher temperature.

Restroom

If the bathhouse has an insulated attic, then it will be equipped so that you can relax and even have fun here after completing all the bathing procedures. They put a billiard table, shelves for cups and a kettle, a TV, even a bar table with your favorite drinks.

Bathroom

It is, of course, necessary. Then you can invite friends and acquaintances to the bathhouse. They will not be bothered by discomfort during a long stay in the bathhouse. The toilet will require little, at least 1.5 m2.