New grape varieties. How I developed a new grape hybrid The method of crossing grapes affects other plants

When growing grapes near walls and on gazebos, the bushes have to be left uncovered for the winter, since it is not possible to bend them to the ground. It follows from this that for wall grape cultivation, frost-resistant varieties are needed. But the existing high-quality European grape varieties, as already mentioned, are not frost-resistant enough, and the frost-resistant Isabella grape varieties do not produce high-quality fruits, hence the task is to work on developing new varieties - high-quality and at the same time frost-resistant, as well as on increasing the frost resistance of existing valuable varieties.

Selection of varieties for hybridization

New varieties are created through hybridization followed by hybrid rearing and selection.

To obtain high-quality frost-resistant hybrids, you need to cross various European and Central Asian grape varieties that have good berry taste with varieties of frost-resistant species.

Of the European varieties, for example, the following can be recommended for hybridization: White Muscat, Pink Muscat and Black Kishmish, which intensively accumulate sugar, early varieties Pearl Saba, Madeleine Angevin and Chaush, whose wood matures well; from Central Asia - large-fruited Taifi, Nimrang, Katta Kurgan, etc. Of the frost-resistant forms, the most suitable for hybridization are varieties of the Vitis Labrusca type - Isabella, Lydia and others, as well as Amur grapes; in areas infected with phylloxera, varieties and hybrids of the species Riparia and Rupestris can also be recommended.

The success of the business depends primarily on the ability to select parent pairs based on personal observations of the behavior of certain varieties in the area where breeding work is being carried out. It is important not only to skillfully select varieties for crossing, but also to select the most suitable bushes of parent varieties for this purpose. For example, if they notice that a bush is better than other bushes of this variety tolerates winter or has better wood ripening and is less damaged by frost, then you should choose just such a bush for crossing.

It is advisable to carry out crosses in the area for which new varieties are being bred, so that hybrid seeds are formed on bushes growing in the conditions of this area. Hybrid seeds should be imported from other places only if there are no bushes on site necessary for crossing the varieties. In this case, you can contact any viticulture research institution with a request to send hybrid seeds for breeding high-quality frost-resistant grape varieties.

How is crossbreeding carried out?

The crossing technique is as follows. On bushes selected for hybridization, large inflorescences located on strong, well-growing shoots are selected. Upper part The clusters are cut to half along the ridge. On the remaining part, the flowers are castrated. Using thin tweezers, remove the cap along with the anthers from each bud in one or two steps (Fig. 42). On each inflorescence, 50-100 buds are castrated, the rest are cut off with scissors with sharp tips. You need to castrate on the day when the first blooming flowers appear on the bush.

After castration, an insulator is put on the inflorescence to protect it from pollen from neighboring flowering bushes. The insulator is prepared from parchment paper, which is cut into pieces 20 centimeters wide and 25 centimeters long. Then the cut leaves are glued into a tube. To do this, take a half-liter bottle, wrap it with a leaf and glue its edges. The end of the resulting parchment tube (from the side of the neck of the bottle) is dipped into water by 3-4 centimeters, then tied with a nylon thread along the edge of the wetted area with one knot, the wetted rim is folded back, removed from the bottle and the other end is tied with thread, having previously been inserted into this edge a small ball of cotton wool.

The insulator prepared in this way (Fig. 43) is put on the inflorescence, the peduncle is wrapped with a piece of cotton wool and the thread is tightened. The next morning, the upper end of the insulator is untied and the stigmas of the castrated flowers are examined. If droplets of liquid appear on them, pollination needs to be done; if droplets do not appear, the insulators are tied and inspection continues every morning until droplets appear on the stigmas of the flowers. This moment cannot be missed, since pollination before the droplets appear or after they dry does not give results - crossing does not work.

If the father's bush blooms before the mother's, pollen is collected in advance for pollination. To do this, shake off the anthers (along with pollen) from flowering inflorescences into a paper bag, dry them in the shade and keep them in a dry place until pollination is needed. During pollination, the anthers with pollen are collected with a brush and shaken off over the stigmas on which droplets have appeared.

Crossing works better if the paternal and maternal bushes bloom at the same time. Then several branches are cut from the well-bloomed inflorescences of the father's bush, brought to the mother's bush and inserted one at a time into the untied insulators, touching the stigmas with the anthers, then taken out. This method of pollination gives the best results.

Sowing seeds and obtaining seedlings

After two to three weeks, the paper insulators are removed and gauze bags are placed on the inflorescences with young berry ovaries. When the seeds are fully ripened, the clusters are cut off and hybrid seeds are extracted from the berries.

For about two months before sowing, the seeds are stratified.

They are soaked in water, those that float are thrown away, and those that sink are soaked for two days. Then the water is drained and the seeds are mixed with soil of moderate humidity. For this purpose, you should take good black soil, mixed in half with sand.

The seeds mixed with soil are poured into small bags, which can be easily prepared from pieces of an old tarpaulin hose. Each bag contains a metal label, which differs from the others in its shape. Labels can be round, triangular, square, with different quantities holes, etc. The journal records which combination of crossings each label shape corresponds to.

Canvas bags with seeds are stored until spring in a box with soil of moderate humidity. A 10-12 centimeter layer of earth is poured onto the bottom of a box measuring 40X50 centimeters and 25 centimeters high, the bags are placed in one row and covered with the same layer of earth. The box is stored in a basement or other room with a temperature no higher than 10-12 degrees Celsius and no lower than zero. Cover the box with a sheet of iron so that the soil does not dry out and so that mice do not get to the seeds.

Grape seeds are sown at the time when the apple tree is blooming. Two weeks before sowing, the box in which the seeds are stored is placed for a day under a greenhouse frame if there is sun, or in a very warm room if the weather is cloudy. At night the box is taken out into the yard so that the seeds can cool as much as possible. With such sharp temperature fluctuations, seed germination accelerates. Usually on the seventh or eighth day they crack, and on the tenth day a root appears. Therefore, starting from the fifth or sixth day, they monitor the condition of the seeds: take a bag out of the box, take several seeds from it, wash off the stuck soil with water and carefully inspect it. If there are no cracks, stratification is continued.

When cracks appear on most of the seeds, they are washed from the ground (preferably using a strainer under running water) and sown in pre-prepared beds. The distance between the rows is 40 centimeters, between the seeds - 7-8, thus linear meter 12-15 seeds are sown. The embedment depth is 3 centimeters.

Immediately after sowing, watering is done. Watering should be done moderately. Excessive watering is dangerous for grape seeds, since they can all rot, and waterlogging of the soil completely stops germination. The soil must be of normal moisture and loose so that air has access to the seeds.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 8-10 days. If cold weather sets in, they are somewhat delayed.

In the first year, caring for seedlings is to provide them with good soil and air nutrition.

After 5-6 leaves appear, the first feeding is done. For one bucket of water take 100 grams of potassium nitrate, 100 grams of superphosphate and add a pinch of borax or boric acid. The seedlings are watered with the resulting solution at the rate of half a liter per linear meter of row. You need to make sure that the fertilizer solution does not get on the leaves, as this can cause burns. After fertilizing, watering is done so that the fertilizer penetrates deeper.

To prevent the soil from drying out and to remain moderately moist in the future, it must be loosened frequently, preventing the formation of a crust from watering and rain. This is very important, since the grape plant develops well only if air freely penetrates to the roots.

In mid-summer, when the roots have already grown sufficiently, granular superphosphate is added into the rows and loosened to a depth of 15-16 centimeters. When the first tendril appears on the seedlings, they are fed with the same fertilizer solution as the first time, but this time a liter of solution is taken per linear meter.

To prevent the seedlings from lying on the ground, provide a support. You can make a temporary trellis: drive stakes every three to four meters and stretch two rows of twine between them.

Seedlings are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, which is prepared in the same way as for old bushes, and then diluted twice with water. When spraying seedlings, it is especially important that the Bordeaux mixture has a neutral reaction (when wetted, blue and red litmus paper must retain its color). Excess copper sulfate (acid) or lime (alkali) causes very severe burns of leaves in seedlings, especially the tops, which retards their development.

After the first frost, the seedlings are dug up. For this work you need to choose a warm, frost-free day. Even with a frost of half a degree, roots just taken out of the ground die very quickly.

The dug up seedlings are tied into bundles according to combinations of crossings, and labels are attached to them, on which the names of the parental forms and the number of plants are noted. In addition, make a corresponding list in the journal.

For the winter, seedlings are buried in sand in the basement and care is taken that they do not dry out. If they are still dry, they should be moistened, but very carefully to avoid excess water.

In the spring, in mid-April, the seedlings are removed from the basement and planted in a permanent place.

Raising hybrid seedlings

Raising hybrid seedlings is a very important stage of breeding work. Everything must be done to ensure that the hybrid seedlings, before they begin to bear fruit, are powerful plants, with a strong root system and a sufficiently developed above-ground part of the bush. Large reserves of nutrients must be accumulated in the roots and in the wood of the trunk. In other words, before entering into fruiting, it is necessary to cultivate such plants that would be able to produce large clusters, with large berries, accumulate a large amount of sugar in them, and produce tasty and beautiful fruits. Such results cannot be achieved from hybrids, if they are stunted plants grown in dense plantings, on poor support, with insufficient soil nutrition and lack of moisture in the soil.

The method of formation of seedlings is also of great importance. I.V. Michurin wrote: “When growing trees from seedlings, in no case should you give them artificial forms of cordons, palmettes, etc., because with such violence to the free growth of seed trees, they remain sterile for a long time.. This once again proves that many methods of so-called form culture often cause quite significant harm to the normal development of plants. best shape for trees of new varieties grown from seeds, one must consider the one in which the growth of each tree of a new variety tends to develop: for apple trees - low-standard and bush, for pears - high-pyramidal, for cherries and plums - bush, depending on the genus and type of plant."

Grape seedlings have strong growth and, under favorable conditions, very quickly turn into powerful liana-like plants. The practice of many winegrowers has established that fruiting occurs in the third year if the seedlings are given the opportunity to form a tall trunk in the first two years. On the contrary, with short pruning, the seedlings turn out to be frail and begin to bear fruit much later.

To ensure proper upbringing of hybrid seedlings, it is necessary to use agricultural technology, the main elements of which are:

1) deep tillage of the soil and increasing its fertility before planting;

2) ensuring water supply (completely eliminating the possibility of drought, that is, lack of moisture);

3) providing a sufficient feeding area in which the leaves of hybrid seedlings would be well and evenly illuminated by the sun;

4) creating conditions for the development of hybrids into liana-like plants;

5) pruning according to the principle of selecting and leaving the strongest, well-developed annual vines on the bush;

6) timely feeding and watering of plants.

Of course, this does not exhaust the agricultural technology of raising hybrid seedlings; only its main provisions are indicated here. Everyday observations of plant development suggest in each case the necessary measures to improve agricultural technology for the specific conditions in which breeding work is carried out.

To plant hybrid seedlings, you need to choose open areas rather than sheltered areas with a warmer microclimate. It is important that the hybrid nursery is located in climatic conditions typical for the area. The soil is prepared in the same way as for wall grapes, but fresh manure must be added. The site must be provided with water for irrigation.

Landing at a permanent place

Seedlings are planted in a permanent place near walls and gazebos in the spring. The distance in the row between the bushes is 1.25 meters (in the future, the plant density will decrease as a result of culling non-frost-resistant seedlings). In an open area, the direction of the row should be from north to south. If seedlings are planted not in one, but in several rows, the distance between the rows should be 1.5 meters. Those who thicken the planting of seedlings to increase the number of plants are doing the wrong thing. Thickened planting is the first violation of the conditions for good plant nutrition and growing powerful bushes.

After the planting grooves have been marked and planting sites have been identified, holes are dug 60 centimeters deep and 200 grams of granulated superphosphate are crushed along the bottom. The seedlings removed from the basement are inspected, and the cuts on the roots are renewed. If there are several annual shoots, only one is left for its entire length, the rest are cut off. After this, they begin planting.

It is necessary to plant so that the root collar (the place where the roots transition into the shoot) is at a depth of 50 centimeters. If the shoot is longer than 50 centimeters, then after planting and watering the hole is completely filled up, and the part of the shoot protruding above the ground is tied to a peg. If the length of the shoot is less than 50 centimeters, after planting and watering, the hole is not buried completely, but only for the length of the shoot, leaving the two upper buds unburied. In the fall, when the new shoot grows and becomes woody, the hole is completely buried.

In the first year after planting in a permanent place, many seedlings grow very strongly and can produce an increase of 2-3 meters in annual shoots. If hybrid seedlings are not planted near walls and arbors, you need to install a trellis in the first year. Its height should be 2-2.5 meters in order to place shoots on it and subsequently form them into tall bush trunks. During the first summer, you need to give two or three additional feedings, tie up green shoots, and implement measures to combat mildew. In the southern regions, seedlings should not be covered for the winter, but in the northern and, especially, north-eastern regions, annual vines should be covered in the first winter, but from the second winter (after planting in a permanent place) there is no need to close them anywhere.

Hybrid seedlings are pruned in the same way as wall and arbor bushes, but at first, in order not to overload the seed plants, you need to leave one at a time, and only very strong ones - two trunks.

In the second and third years, the seedlings begin to bear fruit, and with this comes a new important period in breeding work - the selection period.

Selection

Selection for frost resistance is made by nature itself during frosty winters. The selection for fruit quality and yield is carried out by the breeder. First, all hybrid seedlings with male flowers are discarded. Next, over the course of three to four years, carefully monitoring the yield, quality of berries and frost resistance of the remaining bushes, the best hybrids are selected for propagation.

Bushes grown from cuttings taken from a seed grape plant often differ from it in a number of ways. Therefore, bushes obtained from cuttings of any selected hybrid seedling must again be carefully checked for frost resistance, berry quality and yield. If the test shows that the characteristics for which the hybrid was selected remain the same in its offspring grown from cuttings, or even become stronger, then we can assume that a new good variety has been obtained. All that remains is to give it a name and begin its mass reproduction.

The frost resistance of existing varieties can be increased through clonal selection.

Under the influence of conditions, certain properties of the grapevine may change, and these changes can often be inherited during vegetative propagation. It also happens that not the entire bush changes, but only its individual shoots. Quite often these changes can be beneficial for a person. By selecting for propagation bushes or shoots with characteristics that have changed in a direction beneficial to humans, it is possible to obtain improved varieties. This is clonal selection.

In viticulture, there are many varieties with valuable economic properties, which are obtained as a result of the selection of changed shoots and bushes. If the modified shoots are propagated by cuttings, so-called clones are obtained, which are often given new names and considered new varieties. Thus, through folk selection, the world-famous grape varieties Rose Chasselas, Muscat Chasselas, White Pinot, Gray Pinot, Pink Chaouche and others were created.

Under certain climatic and agrotechnical conditions, changes in grapevines may occur in the direction of increasing their frost resistance. By propagating these vines, growing their vegetative progeny in conditions that promote frost resistance, and applying repeated selection, a good frost-tolerant clone can be obtained.

The selection is made after a harsh winter with severe, prolonged frosts. In these cases, in the spring the bushes are not pruned until the buds swell. When the buds begin to swell, the vines are inspected. At this time, it is easy to distinguish shoots that have withstood frost well from damaged ones. On shoots damaged by frost, the buds do not swell and when pressed with a finger, they easily fall off. A black spot is found at the site of the fallen bud. However, the presence of swollen buds is not yet sufficiently convincing evidence that the shoot withstood the frost well. We still need to examine the bark. To do this, make a small cut so as to only slightly touch the living bark tissue. If the bark is of a bright emerald color, then the shoot is not damaged. If its color is dark green with a transition to brown, then this shows that the shoot is damaged by frost.

After this, those bushes are selected on which frosts did not damage the shoots at all or damaged only a small part of them. The best vines from such bushes are selected, cuttings are cut from them and planted in a school for rooting. The strongest, well-rooted seedlings are selected from the school and planted in a permanent place.

If you carry out selection in this way after each severe winter, you can increase the frost resistance of the bushes in each subsequent vegetative offspring. But in practice this is never done. Cuttings of European varieties are usually prepared in the fall, fearing that the vines will be damaged by frost and cannot be used for planting in the spring. Since cuttings harvested in the fall are stored in the basement or trenches, their selection for frost resistance is completely excluded. This is inevitable in the conditions of industrial viticulture on collective and state farms, where bushes of European varieties are sheltered for the winter. But in conditions of wall and arbor culture, where the bushes remain uncovered for the winter, amateur winegrowers can select for frost resistance. Unfortunately, they don't do this either.

To select vines for frost resistance, you can also take advantage of early autumn and late spring frosts. It is observed that after early autumn frosts, the leaves die on most of the shoots, but on some they remain completely intact. Such shoots, with intact leaves, should be noted and observed next spring, especially if the winter was frosty. If they have wintered well, it is advisable to take them for breeding.

Bedbug selection

Late spring frosts damage young green shoots, which in most cases die completely or their tops freeze. However, a small part of the shoots (sometimes 2-3 per bush) still remains intact. Such shoots also need to be noted and cuttings prepared from them.

It is believed that the buds and annual shoots of European grape varieties begin to be damaged at temperatures below -22°, lasting more than 6 hours, and at lower temperatures, perennial wood is also damaged.

Our long-term observations of arbor grape bushes have shown that vines of European varieties actually begin to be damaged at frosts of about -22°, but the degree of damage to individual bushes and vines varies. While some suffer severe frost damage, others remain undamaged or suffer little damage. In Odessa, in some years frosts reach -35°. After such harsh winters, we observed many wall and pergola bushes of European grape varieties that were almost not damaged by frost. This ability to withstand low temperatures can be fixed and strengthened in vegetative offspring by repeated directed selection.

It must be said that such clonal selection can be carried out throughout the territory of Ukraine. Everywhere you can take advantage of every opportunity to select vines for frost resistance.

Wide participation of amateur winegrowers in this work can play a very important role in the creation of frost-resistant, high-quality grape varieties.

I became interested in grapes about 15 years ago. At that time, I had “Queen of the Vineyards” and “Lydia” growing up, like many others... I didn’t even suspect that there were disease-resistant grape varieties. Every year I had to spray with Bordeaux mixture. How I saw a vineyard at my classmate’s place and got carried away. So much so that I uprooted everything fruit trees on the estate, drove the tractor, planned it, and out of the blue started planting grapes. No experience, I had to go to Zaporozhye to S.G. Leonov. Later, the author of the book “Amateur Viticulture.” He told me in detail what and how. I started planting from cuttings. Then I went to E.A. Klyuchikov. for seedlings. Corresponded with many winegrowers, such as: Sokolov V.I., Olefir E.M., Alekseenko A.N., Kuzmenko N.I., Dmitrenko V.P., Piven I.I., Sinyak G. And. and others.. I would like to mention V.I. Sokolov as a knowledgeable, experienced winegrower-practitioner from the city of Nikolaev. He helped me a lot at that time with new varieties. After all, what do we want? To have such a variety in terms of productivity and beauty, so that it is superior to the rest and no one has it. Like pigeon keepers have pigeons. In a word, I also joined this race for the “miracle variety” of grapes. I planted them, foolishly, apparently or not... And as you guessed, then the uprooting began and replacing the soil.. And 2004, the meldweed year, generally cured me of the craving for a “new variety.” I began to see the old varieties, created by specialists and time-tested, differently. I’m not against today’s home-grown breeders, but why fool people? Well, I did, so what? Now you need to test and get a certificate? And who can help evaluate and give the go-ahead for distribution? If Krasokhina S.I., a candidate of agricultural sciences, she also sells dubious varieties. site. So it turns out that black business is thriving in the field of amateur viticulture. An experienced winegrower, of course, will not buy it, but beginners, even very easily.
I, too, at one time, for sport, wanted to create a variety. After all, in essence, what is it? Any seedling carries the uniqueness of the variety, so create it. In my opinion, don’t blame me for its simplicity, there are two ways to obtain a variety. Clonal and hybrid selection. Clonal selection is when the entire vine of a variety is used to plant seedlings and the best ones are selected. .But this is a long way. And the second, hybrid, in which plant pollen is involved. Please forgive me for my stupidity, but this is how I understand it. I got this process to the point of growing seedlings. A lot of them grew. But, either binges, or work, but “my selection stopped.” And I started with the following. I don’t remember exactly, but it seems that I placed the bunches of the Vostorg variety in a paper bag, and when they bloomed, I tied flowers of a different variety to them, in my opinion, Natalya. It is important that the flowering dates coincide before When a droplet appears on the pistil, remove the stamens for bisexual flowers, and for female flowers, it’s even easier to tie and wait. You can simply collect pollen from early-flowering grape varieties and pollinate the later-blooming variety with powder puffs. The pollination operation should take place under a paper bag. I In general, at that time I did not pursue the goal of creating a super-berry. It was just interesting. When the berries are set, the bags are removed and wait for full ripening. Then, as with tomatoes, the seeds are selected, washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Store in the basement, preferably in a bag of thick fabric in the sand. In early spring, the seeds are stratified in wet sand for a week, then allowed to dry and planted like carrots with sand, but only in school and under film. Care is usual, watering and thinning. In the second year, the seedlings are replanted and monitored for growth vigor and presence sores. To obtain the first test berries, there must be 5-year-old rootstock bushes from which the trunk is cut to cause regrowth and the best seedlings are grafted onto them. If you are lucky, you will get new variety So, there is nothing original in this, if only there was time and desire.

The cultivation of grapes goes back thousands of years. Its taste and beneficial features residents also appreciated Ancient Egypt. Over the centuries, a lot of information has accumulated about the gene pool of varieties, their biomorphological, economic and technical properties. Ampelography deals with the collection and processing of this information.

The data obtained is needed for reproduction and selection. Every year new species with improved properties appear. Thanks to this, the crop is now grown not only in warm regions, but also in areas with a variable climate. For example, in Siberia.

Distinctive features of new varieties

New varieties of grapes and hybrids differ from their mother varieties in many positive qualities:

ultra-high resistance to frost - time and physical costs during cultivation are reduced;

high yield - a combination of abundant fruiting and good taste;

immunity to fungal and viral diseases - no additional treatments chemicals makes berries environmentally friendly;

early ripeness - increases the harvest period, a clear plus for both the consumer and workers during industrial cultivation;

bisexual flowers - make cultivation simple.

When developing new varieties, special attention is paid to the climate zone where the grapes will be grown.

How new species are obtained

New varieties are obtained in several ways:

Vegetative hybridization is a method of producing plants known since ancient times. This is sexual reproduction through bud grafting. Affects the timing of maturation and a number of morphological characteristics.

Artificial hybridization - sexual and asexual crossing. It is based on the combination of genes from different cells in one.

Sowing seeds of natural pollination is a method known since the 3rd century. BC e.

All methods of obtaining new species are aimed at creating varieties with the best commercial and taste characteristics.

Photos

Brief characteristics of new varieties

The varieties described below are new. They are characterized by high productivity, transportability and long terms storage

Seedless hybrid VI-4- table variety. The bushes are strong and grow well. The growing season does not exceed 140 days. White long berries form large conical clusters. The variety tolerates long transportation well. Moderately resistant to fungus, rot and sub-zero temperatures.

Veles Kishmish- a hybrid with a nutmeg flavor. The berries are juicy and sweet. Bunch weight up to 1500 g. Color light pink. Some fruits contain seeds. The grapes withstand light frosts well. Has good immunity.

Lowland 2- table grapes, ripening in clusters of up to two kilograms. The berries are large and light purple. With a pleasant taste and smell. Sugar content up to 19%. The peculiarity of the variety is the early coloring of the fruits and the berry taste with a slight sourness. The crop is characterized by excellent presentation and the ability to withstand long transportation. The bush withstands frost and is not afraid of many diseases.

Premier Kishmish- a variety bred by amateur breeders. It is distinguished by the large size of its yellowish-pink berries. The weight of the bunch is 750 g. The harvest ripens 120 days after the buds open. Hangs on the bush for a long time without deteriorating. Disease resistance is average.

Sprinter- grapes obtained through amateur selection. Ripens extremely early. But 105-110 days after bud break. The berries are red, large, round. The weight of the bunch is 500-600 g. The pulp is dense and juicy. The variety is resistant to frost and mildew.

Every day, breeders work to create the “ideal” variety that would be able to produce a plentiful and tasty harvest for universal purposes at minimal cost during cultivation.

Video "New and hybrid grape varieties"

The technique of crossing is quite simple; For this purpose, the mother plant is first prepared.

Preparing the mother plant

Most grape varieties have bisexual flowers and in pure-varietal plantings, as a rule, self-pollinate, that is, the egg is fertilized by pollen that develops on the same or neighboring flower.

In order to prevent the process of self-pollination or intra-varietal pollination (with pollen from flowers of neighboring bushes), pollen should be removed within the inflorescence. This process of removing pollen is called "castration". Castration begins 2-3 days before flowering begins. Castration is carried out using tweezers, which carefully remove the flower cap (corolla) and at the same time the anthers with pollen. If the flower has short stamen filaments and the anthers sit at the level of the stigma of the pistil or below it, then in this case only the cap of the flower is removed first, and then the stamen filaments with anthers are torn off.

Not all flowers in the inflorescence are castrated, but only 40-50% of the total number, approximately 100-150. The remaining flowers are cut off in such a way that the castrated flowers are located evenly on the inflorescence. After castration, the inflorescence should be immediately isolated using a bag made of parchment paper. The paper insulator prevents the flowers from possibly getting pollen on them.

When using varieties with a functionally female type of flower for hybridization, castration is not carried out, since the pollen of these flowers is not capable of fertilization. However, such flowers are also isolated until artificial pollination.

Harvesting pollen from the paternal plant

Then they begin to collect pollen from the father plant. For this purpose, during the flowering of the parent plant, the stamen filaments with anthers are collected in paper bags, after which they are transferred indoors and spread on paper to dry and ripen. After a day or two, when the anthers burst, the pollen is separated from the filaments and anthers by sifting through a silk sieve and placed in test tubes. Harvested pollen should be stored in a dry and cool place. In the case when the flowering of the mother and father plants coincides, the pollen of the father plant is not collected, and to fertilize the mother plant, the plucked inflorescences of the father plant are shaken over the inflorescence of the mother plant. If the flowering of the father's plant is later than the mother's, it is necessary to artificially either accelerate the flowering of the father's plant or delay the flowering of the mother's plant.

You can speed up the onset of flowering by layering with vines. As observations have shown, flowering on layering occurs 7-10 days earlier compared to flowering on ordinary bushes. Flowering is accelerated even more if greenhouse frames are installed above the bushes. The onset of flowering can be delayed by snow retention and late spring watering. Flowering can be delayed for a longer period if you dig a hole under the bushes intended for hybridization, pour snow into it and cover it with straw and soil.

If the paternal plants flower earlier, pollen can be prepared in advance and stored until the moment of use. Under appropriate conditions of heat and humidity, pollen can be stored for a year.

Pollination process

After collecting pollen or inflorescences with pollen, they begin to artificially apply pollen from the father’s plant to the flowers of the mother’s plant. The pollination process usually begins when a special, slightly adhesive liquid appears on the stigmas of the pistils of the mother plant. In order to prevent pollen of foreign varieties from getting onto the stigma through the air on the castrated inflorescence, the insulator is usually not removed, but a round hole is cut out in it, through which pollen is applied using a brush or cotton wool, after which the hole is sealed with a circle of parchment paper. If pollination is carried out by shaking the plucked inflorescence, then in this case it is better to remove the insulator and, after applying pollen to the flowers of the mother plant, put it on again.

Since not all flowers of the mother plant are simultaneously prepared to receive pollen, it is recommended to repeat pollination after 2-3 days.

In order to ensure interspecific or intergeneric crossing, I. V. Michurin developed a method of vegetative rapprochement. To do this, the original forms are grafted before crossing. It is possible to graft the future paternal form onto the maternal one and, conversely, the maternal form onto the paternal one. As a result of the mutual influence of the scion on the rootstock, pollen or an egg, biologically more similar, appears, and the fertilization process occurs.

In some cases, to overcome uncrossability, they use a mixture of pollen of several species or mix maternal pollen with paternal pollen. A. Ya. Kuzmin has developed another way to overcome non-crossing, which consists of late application of pollen to the stigma of the pistil, when the stigma is on the verge of dying.

After the berries have developed to the size of a pea, the parchment insulators are removed and gauze bags are put on instead to better preserve the hybrid seeds.

Working with seeds

The resulting hybrid berries remain on the bushes until the seeds are completely ripened. Then the bunches are removed from the bushes along with gauze bags and transferred to a storage room. In winter, the seeds are removed from the berries, washed thoroughly and lightly dried on well-ventilated racks. Then the seeds are placed in damp sand and stored in clay pots in unheated rooms at a temperature of 5-7 degrees Celsius. The room where the seeds are stored (at the same time stratified) should not be excessively humid. Two weeks before sowing in the ground or greenhouses, they are transferred to a warm room, where, after transplanting into boxes with sand, the process of swelling and the beginning of seed germination occurs.

The sprouted seeds are transplanted into greenhouses or directly onto ridges in the ground. Transplanting seeds into the ground should be done at a time so that the seeds do not experience sudden temperature fluctuations.

Sowing seeds in greenhouses is carried out at a distance of 8 cm between rows from each other and is covered with humus, half mixed with river sand, to a depth of 3-4 cm. When sowing in the ground, the distance between plants in a row is 10-12 cm, and row from row located depending on the scale of work and methods of mechanized tillage. With a small amount of selection work and manual processing of the ridges, the distance between the rows is 35-40 cm. With horse cultivation, the row spacing increases to 70-75 cm. Caring for seedlings consists of maintaining the necessary soil moisture, combating weeds, diseases and pests.

From the moment of seed germination until the young seedlings enter a state of full fruiting, hybrid plants are created good conditions for development.

Guided Parenting

At a young age, a hybrid plant, being plastic, can develop certain properties that correspond to environmental conditions. The growing conditions of a hybrid plant are crucial for identifying the required characteristics and properties and the time of seedlings entering fruiting.

On the issue of creating new varieties by the method of hybridization and directed education, I. V. Michurin wrote: “In this matter, everything depends on the experienced selection of combinations of crossed pairs, plants and, mainly, on the expedient education of hybrid seedlings at a young age. Here, the qualities of the future variety almost entirely depend on the regime of its cultivation.” Through targeted education, it is necessary to teach the plant to easily tolerate all the unfavorable conditions of a given area. Thus, if the task is to breed productive, high-quality and cold-resistant varieties, hybrid seedlings should be placed in natural conditions of low winter temperatures. Seedlings obtained, for example, from crossing European grape varieties with Amur grape varieties should be lightly covered with soil in the first year, and then they should be gradually taught to tolerate winter temperatures without any covering with soil. In addition, to increase cold resistance, you can use the “mentor” method of education developed by I.V. Michurin. For this purpose, young seedlings need to be grafted onto a cold-resistant rootstock of Amur grapes, or a cutting of this cold-resistant species is grafted onto the seedling. Under the influence of a cold-resistant rootstock or scion, the property of cold resistance is enhanced in a hybrid seedling.

If the task is to develop Muscat that is resistant to oidium and mildew diseases, then, in addition to crossing this variety with some American disease-resistant variety, sometimes it is necessary to strengthen this resistance again by grafting. The same method of directed education can be used when breeding more productive varieties with early ripening of berries and with other characteristics and properties. In particular, with distant interspecific hybridization, there is often a need to improve the quality of the variety. For this purpose, cuttings of high-quality European grape varieties are grafted onto the seedling. In this case, the tissues of the seedling are built from the nutrients produced by the leaves of a high-quality European variety, due to which the same trait develops in the hybrid seedling.

Improving the quality of the variety and increasing the yield can be achieved by improving nutritional conditions a year before the start of fruiting. To do this, enter organic fertilizers mixed with granulated phosphorus and potash fertilizers. In the year of the beginning of fruiting, the amount of fertilizer applied increases.

To ensure strong growth and rapid entry into fruiting, seedlings should not be replanted frequently, and the leaf surface should not be reduced when pruning. Transplantation of seedlings should be done only after the first rejection at one year of age.

When transplanting, seedlings are given normal distances between bushes and rows established for a fruit-bearing vineyard in a given area, while root system should be significantly deeper compared to its location in a one-year-old seedling. In this case, the shoots are pruned long, which contributes to the early entry of the young plant into fruiting.

Rejection

But not all seedlings obtained should be brought to fruiting. Some seedlings can be selected and discarded at an early age. Depending on the task at hand, selection of unsuitable seedlings can be carried out different ways and for various reasons.

For example, when breeding cold-resistant varieties, seedling selection is achieved naturally. Those part of the seedlings that do not have sufficient cold resistance, if left for the winter without covering with earth, will have varying degrees of damage from winter frosts. Seedlings that are severely damaged by frost can be rejected in the first year if they do not have other valuable characteristics and it is not planned to carry out additional work with them in the future to enhance their cold resistance through grafting. By the ripening time of the vine, one can also judge the property of cold resistance and the duration of the growing season. The faster and better the annual shoots of seedlings ripen, the more cold-resistant the latter are.

In the spring of each year, seedlings can be selected not only for cold resistance, but also for other characteristics. During the development of fungal diseases or during artificial infection, it is necessary to select the most disease-resistant seedlings. During the flowering period of grapes, seedlings with abnormal flower structure can be isolated and rejected.

Evaluation of the resulting hybrids

The most complete assessment of the resulting hybrids can be given only after they have entered fruiting. It must be borne in mind that in the first year of fruiting it is impossible to judge the yield and quality of the fruit, since at this time both the clusters and berries are usually smaller. With the further development of grapes and improvement of nutritional conditions, the size of the bunches and berries gradually increases and the quality indicators of the plants are revealed.

It is necessary to remember the instructions of T. D. Lysenko that “ good varieties plants, as well as good breeds of animals in practice have always been created and are created only under the condition of good agricultural technology and good zootechnics. With poor agricultural technology, not only can bad varieties never be produced into good ones, but in many cases even good cultivated varieties turn bad after several generations.” Therefore, newly obtained hybrids must receive good agricultural technology, since under poor growth and development conditions, valuable traits and properties may change for the worse in the future.

How great the importance of abundant nutrition of hybrid seedlings is can be judged from the data obtained by A.K. Ayvazyan, who grew seedlings when added to one square meter 18 kg of humus, 150 g of superphosphate and 20 g of ash.

The seedlings grown on such an agricultural background were characterized not only by strong growth, but also formed fruit buds, starting from 12-13 nodes and above.

In the second year of the growing season, seedlings, as a rule, begin to bear fruit, which makes it possible to select valuable numbers not only based on growth and morphological characteristics shoots and leaves, but also in terms of yield.

Seedlings grown with abundant nutrition in the third year in terms of overall growth vigor and fruiting do not differ from ordinary bushes that have already entered the fruiting season.

Abundant nutrition not only accelerates the fruiting of seedlings, but also contributes to the development of valuable traits in them. If in the first year of seedling development fruit buds develop starting from the 12-13th node, then in two-year-old and older plants the development of fruit buds moves closer to the base of the shoot.

Further propagation of newly developed varieties

Further propagation of newly bred varieties is carried out by cuttings. It must be remembered that not all cuttings can provide valuable traits of a new variety. Therefore, special attention should be paid to selecting the best bushes and cuttings within bushes. Considering that vegetative deviations often appear on young bushes, if cuttings are selected incorrectly, the variety can be deteriorated and, conversely, with careful selection of the best cuttings, the variety can be improved.

Scientists have found that a healthy adult needs to eat 70 kg of grapes of various varieties per year. In reality, 30 kg is not even an average result, but the best. All this is because in many regions grapes continue to be a delicacy. Many summer residents are seriously thinking about growing vines on their plots. This is possible because modern varieties and hybrid forms have been bred not only to suit every taste, but also to various conditions growth. In the article we will tell you about new grape varieties (description and comparison), and give their detailed characteristics.

Description of the earliest grape varieties, advantages and disadvantages

Thanks to the painstaking work of modern breeders, hybrid forms have appeared, the ripening period of which has surpassed all stereotypes and is 100 days.

The most popular among gardeners are:

In addition to those described earlier, others ripen:

• "Outrigger",
• "Darling Muscat"
• "Vitannya"
• "Alexa early"
• "Mary Magdalene"
• "Libya",
• "Sphinx",
• "First Called"
• "Pulsar",
• "Charlie",
• "Azalea",
• "Vovchik"
• "Vera" and others.

The listed varieties and hybrids are relatively unpretentious in care, which is why they are planted more often than others in summer cottages.

Features of mid-early varieties and hybrid forms

In terms of ripeness, they require more time than early ones, but not by much. On average, hybrids of this group are harvested at the end of August. Gardeners prefer the following grape varieties:

"Leah"– an early variety that ripens in 110–115 days. Created by V.V. Zagorulko by crossing the varieties “Arcadia” and “Atlant Zaporozhye”.

• Table form, that is, intended for fresh consumption.
• The bushes give up to 3 m of growth annually.
• The color of ripe fruits is white-pink.
• Bunches of 900 g, weight of 2 kg has been repeatedly observed.
• The sweetness of the berries depends on the number of sunny days; the warmer it is, the more sugar there is.
• Withstands frosts without shelter - minus 21 0.
• Affected by major diseases 3.5 – 4 points.

Disadvantage: the variety has a negative attitude towards overwatering and persistent rains.

"Prometheus"- another hybrid by V.V. Zagorulko, bred by crossing the varieties “Kishmish radiant” and “Arcadia”.

• They differ functionally in having female flowers.
• The structure of the bunches is similar to the Arcadia variety.
• The color of the fruit is dark pink.
• Resistance to winter cold down to minus 21 0.

"Ksenia"– the variety was bred by V.N. Krainov, has a second name "Angelica".

• Vigorous bushes with a medium-early ripening period of 115 – 125 days.
• Large clusters, weighing up to 1.5 kg, with oblong berries of white and pink color.
• The flesh is sweet, crispy, and has several flavor tones.

The advantage is high resistance to diseases. Tolerates transportation well.

Tip #1.Note! The “Ksenia” variety requires annual pruning of 8–10 buds.

"Carmen"– E. G. Pavlovsky combined the variety “Nadezhda AZOS” and the hybrid form “FVC-94-3”.

• Ripening period is 3.5 months in mid-August.
• Vigorous bushes - 2 m or more.
• The flowers are bisexual.
• The weight of a bunch of grapes is 600 – 800 g.
• The color of the fruit is red-violet, the shape is elongated.
• The disadvantage is that the variety is prone to overload and requires thinning of the ovary.

Gardeners favor the cultivation of relatively unpretentious early and mid-early varieties such as:

• "Vlada",
• "Glad",
• "Sofia",
• "Fupshetny"
• "Elf",
• "Abu Hasan."
• "Blagovest"
• "Victor",
• "Long awaited"
• "Zlatogor" and others.

Grape varieties of medium and medium-late ripening

Among the popular ones are:

The following varieties and hybrids deserve more detailed attention:

• "The Anapa Giant"– a versatile, vigorous variety. It is classified as mid-ripening; the berries gain ripeness by mid-September. The clusters are small, 200 g each, the color of the fruit is white.
• Ataman Pavlyuk"- the result of the breeding work of V. U. Kapelyushny, crossing the varieties “Talismpn” and “Autumn Black”. The result is a fast-growing bush with large clusters up to 1300 g, often up to 2 kg. The advantage is the complete absence of peas. The variety is popular due to its good preservation both on the vine and when picked.

• "Alphonse Lavallee"- a French table variety that has successfully taken root in our country. Refers to mid-late. Has bisexual flowers. The clusters are heterogeneous - from loose to dense. Berries of a regular round shape, dark purple. Ripening period is up to 160 days, subject to a positive temperature of +22 0 – +32 0. Disadvantage: not resistant to most fungal diseases, does not withstand frosts and spring return frosts.

Conditions for growing late grapes

To obtain a harvest of late varieties, it will take 155–160 days. They are the ones intended for long-term storage. Read also the article: → "". They are most often used in warm climates or in greenhouses.

Tip # 2. The successful development of a young vine and the quality of the harvest on a mature one depend on proper watering. Mandatory watering is carried out for the first 2 years. For mature plants, irrigation is necessary before flowering and moisture-recharging watering for the winter.

The best varieties for Crimea, Volga region, Moscow region, Leningrad region, Siberia

Long gone are the days when grapes were considered an exclusively southern crop. Thanks to professional and amateur selection, modern varieties are able to satisfy gardeners living in different climatic zones. As before, Crimea is the leader in grape growing. Thanks to the climate here, the earliest varieties ripen at the end of July.

• "Pearl of Saba"– the fruits are medium-sized, amber-golden when ripe, round, with a pulp of delicate and pleasant taste, with a nutmeg aroma, small clusters, loose shape.

• "Queen of the Vineyards"– a variety with large berries, round or slightly elongated, golden-amber in color, with large clusters.
• "Taifi pink"– with large long clusters up to 25 cm long. The color of the berries is dark pink, regular round shape. Ripens in 167 days.

The varieties listed are the most famous and popular. But thanks to selection, grapes are grown in many climatic zones, even in those whose conditions are opposite to the Crimean. Such varieties and hybrids are characteristic of different regions.

Category: “Questions and answers”

Question No. 1. What are the largest grape varieties?

1. Harold.
2. Laura.
3. Augustine.
4. New century.
5. Paula.
6. In memory of a surgeon.
7. Karmacode.
8. In memory of Negrul.
9. Stashensky.
10. Codrianka.

Question No. 2. Which varieties withstand transportation best?

1. Shami Abiad.
2. Gorgeous. Read also the article: → "".
3. Ataman,
4. Codrianka.
5. Kishmish Kalina.
6. Arched.
7. Baikonur.

Question No. 3. Which grapes last the longest?

• Ruslan.
• Moldova - up to 160 days;
• In memory of Negrul - up to 130 days;
• Autumn black - up to 120 days;
• Kriulyansky - up to 100 days;
• Original - up to 130 days;
• Light - up to 100 days;
• Nadezhda AZOS - up to 90 days;
• Tair – up to 90 days.

Question number 4. Which grape varieties are the most frost-resistant?

1. Carmen – 30 0,
2. September – 21 0,
3. Moldova – 23 0,
4. Anthony the Great – 23 0,
5. Black Grand – 23 0,
6. Lingonberry – 24 0,
7. Valentina – 24 0,
8. Meteorite – 24 0,
9. Romeo – 23 0 .

Serious mistakes gardeners make when choosing new grape varieties

Mistake #1. Selecting a grape variety that is unsuitable for growing in a given climate zone.

Often, when purchasing a new variety, gardeners find themselves hostage to unscrupulous sellers who distribute plants that do not grow in local conditions. At best, this will affect the quality and quantity of the harvest, but most likely the grapes will not take root.

Mistake #2. Planting new varieties in a common vineyard.

It is better to plant a newly acquired plant separately or keep it in quarantine. It is unknown how the local “environment” will affect the new variety; it is better to protect it (if possible) from infection with diseases.

Mistake #3. Selection of heat-loving varieties for areas with harsh climates.

In this case, the main criterion is frost resistance, otherwise grapes can only be grown in a greenhouse.