Fitting soffits along the rafters. Soffits for roofing: sizes, prices and a brief overview of varieties. Installation of soffits for roof eaves

Today, soffit manufacturers unanimously claim that installing their products is easy and simple. After all, such products already have all the necessary locks, holes and devices, and the accompanying technical documentation covers every step in detail.

And really, are there subtleties and nuances in this process that are better to know about in advance? Let's tell you this: competent installation of soffits is truly accessible to any handy craftsman, but in order for the roof lining to serve for a long time and look presentable, it is also important to be theoretically savvy.

Therefore, we have tried to compose for you an understandable and detailed instructions with illustrations that will help you be confident in every step.

Let's start from the very beginning. So, you need to hem the roof overhang before starting the flooring roofing material. You should also first insulate the walls so that there are no unprotected areas between the walls and roofs.

And first of all, they calculate and install the sheathing.The simplest and most common way of lining a roof with soffits is horizontal. For this task, bars are pre-attached to the rafters or their continuation in the form of fillies, forming the frame of the box.

At this stage, it is extremely important to control the future plane of the filing using a level and plumb line. Here are several options for exactly how to place the sheathing bars on the overhang of a standard roof:

It cannot be said that the horizontal or diagonal arrangement of the sheathing is better. Here, it most likely depends on which overhang seems more aesthetically pleasing to you and whether you plan to place communication cables in the soffits and build in lamps. Then the horizontal option is more appropriate, of course.

Let's move on. The sheathing should be laid along the perimeter of the overhang, parallel to the wall, and a galvanized profile or wooden slats. If you prefer wood, then make sure that such bars are sufficiently dry, with a moisture content of no more than 15-18%, without knots and bends, and if metal, then choose either aluminum or anti-corrosion steel.

There should be a distance of no more than 30-40 cm between the slats. If it turns out that the overhang still exceeds 40 cm, you will need to install an additional rail - between the inner and outer ones. But if the distance exceeds 40 cm, then strengthen this place. But you shouldn’t connect vertical ones with transverse bars, although this practice occurs.

Nail two boards on the side of the front board and the wall, onto which you will then fix the soffit strips and additional elements. For overhang lengths greater than 80 cm, use three attachment points. In this case, the boards must be of sufficient width for the installation of soffits and additional elements more than 100 mm wide.

Stage II. Preparing and trimming soffits

Now let's take care not to damage the panels themselves before installing them. So, newly purchased soffits must be laid on a level, flat surface. Packages with them are stored in stacks of packs, but no more than 15 together in one stack.

If the site is open, then it is better to open the packages. If you don’t listen to such advice, then there is a risk of ending up with parts that are not quite even, which then simply cannot be inserted into the grooves. Imagine how unpleasant it will be to discover this defect during the installation process.

Next, the soffit panels need to be prepared so that the length of their panels is 50 mm less than the overhang from the wall to the front board. Trimming the soffits themselves is not difficult, just be sure to use safety glasses.

For a circular saw, use a fine-tooth reverse blade or other suitable tools:

A little advice: if it is more convenient for you to work with metal scissors, then try this: do not cut along the entire length of the scissors at once, but use only ¾ of their blade.A knife is also suitable for cutting. Use it to make a small groove in the desired location, and then bend and straighten the soffit several times until the panel breaks. There is no need to cut right through.

Remember that you can only cut panels starting from the fastening part. Here are the most convenient tools to use to adjust the length of vinyl soffits:

Here is the process for working with popular aluminum soffits:


Unfortunately, not everyone knows that working with metal soffits has its own peculiarities. So, they cannot be cut with an abrasive wheel, i.e. Bulgarian Because this leads to damage to the polymer coating and rapid corrosion of the metal.

To the point that even manufacturers do not provide a guarantee for soffits that were trimmed using a grinder.Nibblers, multifunctional cutters, or special drill attachments are much more suitable for this task.

Stage III. Fixing chamfers and profiles

Now we proceed directly to the installation of spotlights. Let's look at what tasks require special profiles and chamfers, which are always included:

  • J-profile is the main hanging element. They frame the eaves overhang and join two panels of soffits along the length.
  • The L-shaped panel is needed for the front trim. Available in sizes 15.20 or 25 cm, less often - 45 cm. This strip allows you to hem the roof at an angle.
  • A J-bevel is a windshield with a J-profile. It allows you to hem an overhang perpendicular to the wall, and is available in sizes 15, 20 and 25 cm, sometimes 40 cm.

Here's how to work the J-bar. It needs to be installed parallel to the wall of the house, and to do this, measure the distance between these planks and subtract 6 mm for temperature changes in the size of the panels.Next, install the cut panel into the grooves and nail the strip so that later the fasteners do not interfere with the free expansion of the material. Connect the panels together in a lock.

Lay the panels in a horizontal or inclined position. Keep the distance between the fastening points at 30 cm. And at rotation angles of 45°, install two J-bars, which will be connected by the rear walls and H-profiles.

Here's where all these elements are specifically recorded:

The J-bevel method is more aesthetically pleasing, because all the fasteners are hidden so well. Here's how to work with it:

  • Step 1. From the wall side, install the J-profile directly on the board using self-tapping screws in increments of 50-60 cm.
  • Step 2. Next, fix the finishing strip along the top line of the front board. If necessary, trim off the excess by adjusting the length of the flat part. Step 3. The J-bevel should then be inserted into the finishing strip and secured. This will avoid waviness of the chamfer itself.

As for the finishing strip, you can do without it if you use short gutter hooks. Such hooks are attached directly to the front board, and the J-chamfer is fixed with self-tapping screws. If the end or front board will remain open for decorative purposes, then use two J-profiles.

Also, if the J-bevel needs to be rotated, then follow these instructions:

  • Step 1. Start installing the soffits on the roof eaves from the corner, and to do this, mark the fold line in advance where the strip will be bent at the turn where 150 mm remains from the edge.
  • Step 2. Now cut the groove to the fold and leave only the folding at the bottom shelf.
  • Step 3. Make a 45° cut on the bottom shelf. Now bend the chamfer so that the edge of the bottom shelf is on the outside. Now the short edge of the plank does not need to be attached to the sheathing, because it will be pressed to the front board by the next bar.

If you will then additionally run holders or cables, then in such casing you need to leave a hole 5 mm larger than needed for the drill. This is also necessary for contraction and expansion.

Stage IV. Inserting and fixing soffit panels

Let us note a few more important points. To install the soffit yourself, you will need to arm yourself with a screwdriver, roofing pliers, a tape measure, a level and a jigsaw with a metal file.

Don’t forget to also purchase a special corrector to eliminate scratches for metal panels (if you are installing just such panels), because anyway, the surface will be damaged somewhere, and you will need to protect the coating in that place.

Insert the panels themselves into the J-profiles with a small gap:


Secure the soffits with self-tapping screws and a special rivet. In this regard, it is advisable to use fasteners with a painted head. Also pThe panels can be fixed using self-tapping screws with a press washer.

For open overhangs you need to use an F-profile:

  • Step 1. Using a level, make a mark parallel to the roof belt at the edge of the wall and nail the profile to the back wall of the house.
  • Step 2. From these vertical marks, move 2 cm up and draw a chalk line.
  • Step 3. Install the F-profile along this line so that the top edge is on the line. It is very important to do everything correctly here, because it is this profile that forms the rear support for the spotlights.

But for a closed overhang you also need a J-profile:

  • Step 1: Measure the distance between the J-profile and the F-profile, from the front to the back edge.
  • Step 2. Cut the panels to the measured length and subtract 3-5 cm to account for possible expansion. For this purpose, it is better to use solid panels, except for those places where ventilation will be installed - perforated soffit is also suitable there.
  • Step 3. Cut the panels to length and insert them at one end into the wall support you installed - F-profile or J-profile. Align the profile and secure it.
  • Step 4. Once the first panel is installed, secure the lock with the second one. Close the slotted edge.
  • Step 5. Manually adjust the panels to each other. If the width is at least 45 cm, no additional intermediate supports are needed.

Corners are made using a J-profile or H-profile. Place both profiles with their back edges facing each other to create additional support for the soffits.

Next, carefully ensure that the soffit panels are not stretched too tightly, otherwise their shape may become distorted. Therefore, withTry not to pull on the horizontal sheathing panels when installing; it is better to simply press down on the bottom and pull them up until they are fully engaged.

In practice, you will immediately understand what and how, and this video will help you prepare for the process:

If everything works out, the nailed panels will hang without tension. If the panels are still stretched, friction will arise in the locks, and the profile risks changing shape, deforming, in a word.

Stage V. Important subtleties of using fasteners

Let's look at which mount is best suited for this task. So, to install soffits you need anti-corrosion screws or nails (but only anti-corrosion ones). The fact is that the spotlights will have direct contact with the open atmosphere 365 days a year. And on especially rainy days, the air humidity is quite high.

The diameter of the head of nails and screws should be no narrower than 8 mm, and the stem - 3 mm. The movement of the panel during the installation process must be free. Whether you did everything correctly can be checked by using an ordinary penny coin, which, if done correctly, will fit between the cap and the panel. And leave at least 1 mm between the fasteners and the surface of the panel:

Try not to drive the nail deep - you need to leave 1 mm between the siding and the bottom of the nail head. It is better to nail the nails at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other - so that the panels can move freely.

For hit them right in the center of the slot, and under no circumstances at the end, otherwise you will ruin the trim panel. At all joints and stops at the end of the profiles, be sure to leave a minimum gap of 5 mm, and if you work in cold weather, then all 6 mm.

Stage VI. Decorating the corners of the hem

The entire soffit installation process is completed by decorating the corners. Rotation can be done both at right angles and diagonally. Diagonal joining looks more impressive, but is more difficult to perform.

At the joints of panels, either an H-profile or two J-profiles are used to bypass the corners. So, in the diagonal version, a J-profile is used, and the soffit panels themselves are cut so that the corners fit each other.

If you don't need to hide the fasteners at all, install a simple docking strip:

  • Step 1. C make markings: place the plank in place so that there are minimal gaps between the additional elements. Cut off all excess.
  • Step 2. Fasten the strip with self-tapping screws to the sheathing and mark the panels that are adjacent to the H-profile so that the joint ends up looking symmetrical.
  • Step 3. Remove construction debris and remaining protective film from the binder, touch up all scuffs and scratches.

The profiles themselves need to be mounted on the sheathing to create additional support. This is what straight and diagonal corner design looks like in lining cornices with soffits:

If all rules were followed when installing the spotlights, the entire roof overhang will look neat, organic and holistic. In addition, spotlights have an important function, which they will perform only with high-quality installation. And thanks to our master classes and illustrations, you will be able to understand the intricacies of such a process and be confident in the result.

Did you manage? Show me how it turned out!

The roof is the most difficult part of the house structure to construct and assemble, which consists of many interconnected elements. Inexperienced craftsmen often have the opinion that the construction of the roof ends with the covering, however, in fact, such little things as finishing overhangs and ebbs are even more important. In this article we will tell you how to hem a roof eaves with your own hands using a profiled steel sheet.

In civil engineering, the roof design is always designed so that it protrudes slightly beyond the perimeter of the building. The distance from the bottom edge of the slope to the wall of the house is called the roof overhang. According to building codes, it should be at least 40-50 cm. The roof overhang drains rain and melt water rolling off the roof to the maximum distance from the wall, protecting it from getting wet. There are 2 types of overhangs:

  • Cornice. A cornice is an overhang that is formed between the bottom of the slope and the side wall of the house.
  • Pedimental. The gable overhang is the extension of the roof beyond the gable of the building, formed by rafter system or sheathing.

Important! Roof eaves are formed by lengthening the rafter legs of the frame or using fillets. Fillers are the name given to the bars used to lengthen the rafters in order to obtain a wider overhang. Since the load on the roof outside the perimeter of the house is small, the fillies are made from boards of a smaller cross-section, secured to the rafters with nails or metal strips.

Functions

In the process of arranging the roof, after laying the finishing coating, the eaves are finished with soffits, clapboard, plastic siding or corrugated sheeting. Overhangs perform decorative and practical tasks that make them one of the most important elements designs. They are assigned the following functions:

  1. Drainage of rain and melt water from the surface of the walls. The wide eaves of the roof protect the walls of the house from moisture when atmospheric moisture leaves the slope. Without it, the finishing of the house quickly becomes damp, cracks or loses its attractive appearance.
  2. Removal of atmospheric moisture flows beyond the blind area and foundation. The eaves overhang should divert water flowing from the slope at high speed beyond the blind area to protect the foundation from erosion.
  3. Protection of rafters from getting wet. A cornice lined with corrugated sheets or soffits prevents water from entering the rafter frame from below, protecting wooden elements structures from damage and decay.
  4. Creating a single, harmonious image of the roof. A decorated cornice completes the appearance of the house, hiding unpresentable elements of the rafter frame from prying eyes.

Pay attention! The lower the roof slope, the wider the eaves should be so that the roof looks proportional and harmonious. In addition, the width of the overhang is influenced by the climatic factor. In regions with high rainfall and snowy winters, it is better to make the cornice wider.

Binding methods

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend leaving them unsheathed, since in a strong wind or slanting rain water can flow under them, causing them to get wet. wooden rafters and gradual rotting of the frame. To hem eaves and gable overhangs, special perforated panels called soffits are used, or materials left over from the roof deck are used. It is quite possible to sew up the cornices with corrugated sheets using one of the following methods:


Professional craftsmen note that finishing overhangs with corrugated sheets has a number of advantages. Firstly, profiled steel sheet with polymer coating Excellent resistance to corrosion. Secondly, it has high mechanical strength. Finally, the color of the siding can be matched to the color of the roof to create a unified architectural look.

Sheathing technology

The technology for constructing a roof necessarily includes filing the eaves. This operation is performed after laying roofing, complete with installation drainage system. To finish the overhangs, remnants of corrugated sheeting, fastening strips, wooden blocks and galvanized screws are used. The work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. First, the ends of the rafter legs or fillies are trimmed to length. It is necessary that the ends of the bars are parallel to the surface of the wall.
  2. A frontal board is mounted on the ends of the lower part of the rafter legs. At this point, it is most convenient to install the brackets for attaching the gutter.
  3. Fixed to the wall of the house at the same level as the front board wooden block using anchor bolts.
  4. Connecting jumpers are installed between the front board and the support beam on the wall in increments of 40-60 cm. This completes the assembly of the frame for the sheathing.
  5. Using guides and screws to the frame. It is good if there is a gap between it and the wall equal to the height of the profile wave, necessary for ventilation.

Pay attention! The only drawback of lining the eaves with corrugated sheeting is the lack of ventilation holes through which the roof rafter frame is ventilated. If the roof design requires powerful ventilation, it is better to seal the eaves using special soffits.

Video instructions

An important part of laying the roof covering is the filing of the roof overhangs (eaves). The protection of the walls and attic from the penetration of moisture, dust, and insects depends on the accuracy and precision of the work. Simultaneously with the filing of overhangs, such necessary procedures as ventilation of the under-roof space and organization of drains are carried out.

Hemming is often carried out immediately after installation of the rafter system, before the installation of sheathing under the roof begins. Before starting, you need to saw off the rafter legs so that their cuts form a straight line parallel to the wall of the house.

Material selection

How to hem the roof overhang depends on the overall style of the house, the required width of the material and the amount you are counting on. For wide eaves, lining or edged boards are usually chosen, for narrow eaves - siding.

1. Lining. Material very sensitive to humidity. To hem the roof overhang, the lining is selected with the same level of humidity as the environment. To do this, the boards are kept for some time in the room or space where they will be used. In particular, to install overhangs, it is necessary to store the lining outdoors for about a month.

In addition, it (like any wood material) must be treated with an antiseptic, water-repellent compound and fire retardant.

Attention! When making a gable roof overhang from clapboard, ventilation holes must be arranged in increments of one and a half meters and immediately covered with gratings.

2. Edged boards. The preferred thickness is one and a half to two centimeters. The requirements for pre-treatment are the same as for lining: fire retardant, water repellent, antiseptic. In addition, it is advisable to regularly tint the boards: this will provide additional protection for the material and provide the cornice with a neat appearance and stylistic unity with the house.

When creating an eave overhang for the roof, ventilation gaps should be left at the joints of adjacent boards at the bottom of the boards, a centimeter to one and a half wide.

3. Ready soffit. They come in metal and plastic varieties. Both are durable, do not rot, are not subject to corrosion and biological damage. They contain UV stabilizers to protect the surface from sunlight.

Typically, soffits already have perforated holes for both fastening and ventilation, as well as locks for connecting the parts together. Based on color and texture, you can choose a product that will best match the appearance of your home.

4. As an option for processing the cornice with metal or PVC - vinyl or metal siding, as well as strips of corrugated board. Unlike ready-made soffits, this method of filing is not very popular, but can be used when installing narrow overhangs.

Types of spotlights

Roof overhangs can be covered with various materials:

1. Copper. High strength, fire resistance. They look beautiful and stylish. They are expensive.

2. Aluminum. Durable, fire resistant, light weight. Easy to install and repair. Durable paints. Reasonable price. Among the disadvantages are color restrictions; only white and brown are found.

3. Galvanized steel. Anti-corrosion properties, mechanical strength, fire resistance, durability. Disadvantage: heavy weight.

4. Three-strip vinyl, three types: without holes for ventilation (for front overhangs), perforated entirely or only along the central strip. Pros: strength, resistance to water, rot, and corrosion. Easy to install. Most cheap material. Disadvantage: thermal expansion.

How to sew up a roof eaves

Attention: if internal insulation of the roof is planned, it should be carried out before installing the cornice.

Roof lining is possible in two ways:

1. Along the rafters. The board is placed from below on the rafter legs, its angle of inclination is the same as theirs. This method is used for roofs with a slight slope or flat.

Before hemming the roof eaves, the rafters are trimmed from below so that the surface is even. If necessary, you can additionally strengthen fragments of boards 10 centimeters wide and 4 centimeters thick.

2. Sheathing the roof of the house with the installation of a frame (horizontal box). Used on roofs with a large slope.

Thin boards are used for the frame; they are attached between the sections of the rafters and the wall of the house. In the ridge part, where the slopes connect, the board is placed flat on the wall, end-to-end. Fastening is usually done with screws; metal corners can be used for reinforcement.

Sheet boards or soffits are attached to the frame.

Unlike wooden materials Hemming the roof eaves is possible only in one position - perpendicular to the wall. The need for a frame is compensated by the simplicity of joining the elements themselves: they are equipped with special locks for fastening to each other and ready-made ventilation holes.

Important: the side overhangs of the roof should be made with perforated elements. Frontal ones, open to precipitation, make them deaf.

If the roof overhang lining is made of vinyl: the screws are not screwed in tightly, leaving a gap between their heads and the material for thermal expansion.

Sheathing the roof eaves: how and how to sheathe them

Hemming the roof eaves with your own hands allows you to protect the roofing pie from external influences and give the roof an attractive appearance. appearance. Currently, there are many cladding options. We will focus on the most popular ones in this article.

Features of the binder

It is recommended to carry out work on covering the roof overhang after installing the rafter structure, but before installing the sheathing for laying the roof covering. Before filing the eaves, the roof waterproofing should be laid and it is advisable to insulate the roof from the attic side. In addition, it should be taken into account that it is preferable to sew up the roof overhang before the external insulation of the walls of the house begins, so as not to damage the wall covering while working with the cornice.

At the first stage of work, the protruding parts of the rafters should be sawed off along one line, which should be parallel to the adjacent wall of the building.

Overhangs pitched roof sewn up in such a way that it is possible to install gutters and provide ventilation roofing pie. For these purposes, various materials and installation technologies can be used.

Selection of materials

Traditionally, roof eaves sheathing is done using edged and planed boards. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, you should use boards that are the same in thickness and width. In addition to boards, various materials are widely used today, which should:

  • provide reliable protection the eaves of the roof from moisture, frost, precipitation;
  • provide the necessary roof ventilation;
  • be resistant to external influences and durable;
  • have aesthetic appeal.

Popular materials for arranging eaves overhang include:

  • lining (wooden and PVC);
  • soffit (vinyl and aluminum);
  • corrugated sheeting

Edged and planed boards 1.5-2 cm thick are a practical material for installing sheathing, which makes it possible to ensure high-quality and uniform roof ventilation. To do this, the elements should be stuffed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm.

Wooden lining. This material should be selected with special care: the roof eaves lining is used outdoors, therefore, the lining must be made of high-quality wood of medium humidity and have a sufficiently large thickness - this will avoid warping.

PVC lining. This is an inexpensive and easy-to-install material. Moisture-resistant lining is designed for a long service life. To install this material, you should immediately purchase U-shaped plastic strips for covering the edges and special corners for fastening the joints.

Soffit. This is a special aluminum or plastic panel, with which the roof eaves are hemmed. Externally, the soffit resembles siding, but it is made of thicker plastic and is equipped with perforations, which allows you to create the necessary air ventilation under the roof. The advantages of aluminum and plastic soffit include high weather resistance and durability. UV stabilizers are added to plastic for making spotlights.

The soffit panels are cut to the length of the eaves overhang and installed perpendicular to the wall.

Corrugated sheet. Profiled sheets of galvanized steel with colored polymer coating are usually used for lining roofs made of the same material. The corrugated sheet has a fairly high rigidity and is resistant to external influences and extreme temperatures. Corrugated panels are cut according to the size of the eaves overhang. The ventilation gap of such a filing is equal to the wave height of the corrugated sheet.

Cornice sheathing frame

Hemming the roof eaves is done after installing the roof frame and adjusting the protruding edges of the rafters to size. After sawing off the rafter legs, the first sheathing board is installed along the line, which then serves as a guide for work in the next stages. Next, you should cover the overhangs by selecting suitable type designs:

Do-it-yourself roof eaves lining involves creating a roof eaves box. In both versions of the sheathing device, it is performed in the same way: a board is placed on the sheathing along the pediment, and it is required to measure the distance, which should correspond to the width of the overhang. The board is then nailed parallel to the gable wall.

Installation of the binder

Sheathing a roof eave with a soffit requires the use of a J-shaped strip that is secured with self-tapping screws along the eave and along the wall. The soffit sheets are mounted between the slats. The length of each panel should be equal to the distance between the mounted strips minus 6 mm for thermal expansion of the material. If the roof overhang exceeds 900 mm, 12 mm should be deducted. The frontal plate is closed with a special frontal strip. The use of soffit and special elements allows you to create a durable, functional and attractive roof overhang.

Before sheathing the roof eaves with edged boards or wooden clapboards, the material cut to size should be impregnated with antiseptic, fire-resistant and water-repellent compounds. This allows you to extend the life of the binder.

Width edged boards adjusted depending on the size of the overhang. The elements should be mounted in 10 mm increments, creating ventilation gaps. If the eaves overhang is covered with clapboard, the planks are laid with a tongue-and-groove connection, and special ventilation grilles should be installed every 1.5 meters.

To cover roof overhangs with corrugated sheets, you need to screw pre-cut sheets to the frame parallel to the wall and along the eaves. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. The junction of the wall and sheet material closed with an internal corner and a front strip. The inner corner should be attached to the profiled sheet, the front strip to the front board. The outer corner is fastened along the external joints of the profiled sheet.

Along the pediment, corrugated sheeting is mounted along the wall, along the outer edge of the roof overhang. Then the corners are installed and end strip. To ensure air access for roof ventilation, the width of the corrugated sheet should be 2 cm less than the width of the overhang. It is important to consider that the filing made from metal sheet, is prone to corrosion in places where moisture accumulates and its service life is inferior to other options for finishing the eaves overhang.

How and with what to sheathe the roof eaves

Roof arrangement pitched type always accompanied by a process such as finishing the roof eaves. These works may not seem so significant, but the further operation of the roof depends on how correctly they are performed.

Typically, corrugated sheeting, lining or panels specially designed for this are used as materials for covering cornices.

What are roof overhangs and why are they needed?

The roof overhang is the surface at the bottom of the roof, which is distinguished by its protrusion beyond the walls themselves. It is needed to protect the walls and foundation of the house from moisture getting on them during heavy rainfall. As a rule, the width of this part varies within one meter. Construction rules allow not to line this part of the roof.

But still, it is best if the overhangs are treated, since a strong wind entering through the holes in them can easily tear the roof off the building. In addition to the practical function, overhang sheathing also has a decorative function, since it is always better to remove the underside of the roof and aesthetically treat its edge.

Before making cornices under the roof, you need to complete the roofing work, finish the house and perform installation finishing material on the cornices last.

Types of overhangs

If you look at the roof, you can see overhangs on all sides. two of them are cornice, two are pediment.

Eaves overhang

This is the lower surface through which air enters the roof structure and ventilation occurs. On roofs with an attic, the air passes directly there, and on attic roofs into the roof structure itself, where the air cavity is located. After the air passes throughout the roof, it exits through the ridge.

If the overhang is boarded up, ventilation will not occur, but birds, mice and insects will be able to get into the roof structure. Thus, the overhangs are formed. But not close, but with a small gap for air to pass through.

Usually the issue of leaving a gap is resolved by similar actions:

  • Leaving a gap between the sheathing and the wall of the house. For hemming made of corrugated sheets, the gap is left small, from half to one centimeter. When using lining, you need to leave from a centimeter to one and a half.
  • If the overhangs are decorated with metal, then you need to install ready-made metal grilles that are mounted on the finish.
  • If the sheathing is carried out using boards, then you need to leave gaps of up to 1 cm between them.
  • If you decide to use soffits, then perforated material is used, which is created for ventilation purposes.

Gable overhang

This is the side part of the roof slope, which is adjacent to the walls of the house. Ventilation is not important in this case; the main thing here is protection from environmental influences. If there is a strong wind and rain outside, then it is necessary that the gable-type overhang does not allow moisture to pass through with the wind, since there is a risk of the roof insulation becoming wet, which will cease to perform its main function. That is why tightness is in the foreground when designing this part.

Sheathing methods

You can design roof overhangs in various ways, for example, in the perpendicular and parallel direction from the overhang. Various solid materials or their elements can also be used. Let's consider methods of fastening the material:

Hemming along the rafters

If the roof has a slope of no more than 30 degrees and a small part of the offset, approximately 50 cm or less, then this cladding method can be used. To begin with, a sheathing is formed, which is attached to the rafters, and the material is mounted on it parallel, perpendicularly or along the end of the rafters.

Horizontal type binder

This design method is very good with a strong roof slope. To carry out cladding work, you need to build a kind of box that is attached to the rafters and the wall. To quickly drain water that gets onto the overhang, it is necessary to mount the beam on the rafters a little lower than the one that is attached to the wall.

All beams are reinforced with boards that are nailed perpendicular to the wall.

Materials for covering cornices

When choosing a material for a roof eaves, you need to pay attention not only to its functional side, but also to its decorative side, since cladding that is inappropriate in style will look extremely unattractive.

Board finishing

Boards must be taken only from coniferous species and of certain dimensions. The width should be at least 5 cm and no more than 25, and the thickness should be about 2 cm. In order to prevent damage to the wood in the future, the boards need to lie under a canopy for about a month before installation. It is also necessary to carry out treatment with an antiseptic and decorative coating with varnish or paint as necessary.

When the boards are perpendicular, their fastening points are located on each side; in the case of a long overhang, additionally in the middle. If the board is attached parallel to the wall, then fasteners are installed every meter. Be sure to leave a gap of about a centimeter between the boards so that natural ventilation roofs.

Clapboard finishing

Unlike ordinary boards, lining is a material completely ready for installation and processed. Before installation, the lining must also be left under a canopy for one month. Installation is carried out in the same way as in the first case. The only exception is that there is no need to leave gaps between the elements. Special metal grilles for ventilation are then attached to the lining.

PVC siding finishing

To finish the roof eaves with siding, only those panels that have a special moisture-resistant coating are used. Additionally, you will need to purchase all additional decorative elements - special finishing strips for finishing the edges, corners for masking joints, grilles for ventilation. The panels are attached perpendicular to the wall using three or four fasteners. Along the overhang better panel do not fasten them, as they may break due to the fact that they are not highly rigid, for example, like wooden boards.

Finishing with corrugated sheets

This material can be laid in such a way that a large area is hidden at once. Be sure to leave small gaps of about a centimeter between the sheets of corrugated sheets so that the panels do not bend due to temperature changes. Ventilation is carried out by installing ventilation grilles over the entire finishing surface.

Sheet type metal trim

For cladding the eaves of a house, copper, aluminum or galvanized or polymer steel can be used. The length of the sheets used can be up to 6 meters, and the thickness from 0.6 to 0.8 cm. Ventilation can be carried out by installing additional grilles or by installing perforated sheets. Steel sheets must be processed at the cutting line by special means, preventing metal corrosion.

Plywood finishing

Such material for overhangs can be used, but only on condition that it is water-repellent. Plywood has rigid sheets, so it is easy to attach; the result is a reliable coating, but it must be painted, since without treatment it does not look particularly attractive. Ventilation is carried out using special grilles.

Soffit finishing

Soffits are strips made of various materials, which are made for processing roof eaves. Thanks to a wide range of colors and materials, you can choose those soffit panels that will fit into the overall design of the exterior in appearance.

In addition, the kits contain a variety of additional parts that speed up and simplify the cladding of the cornice with your own hands. There is no particular difficulty in installation; you just need to cut the strips to size and secure them according to the existing grooves.

Additional finishing of the cornice edge

Any type of overhang has parts of the structure that are not covered. For a cornice overhang, such elements are the ends of the rafters, and for a pediment overhang, these are the ends of the sheathing. They, just like the overhang made, need to be decorated, while protecting them from atmospheric influences.

These elements can also be styled different materials, depending on what type was used. Usually, along with a kit for processing the overhang itself, material for finishing the edge is also offered.

Before decorating the eaves overhang, all rafters must be cut vertically at the same level. The ends are then joined together using a strapping board onto which the front is attached. A gutter will subsequently be installed on the latter.

A gable-type overhang is processed by initially cutting off the ends of the sheathing that extend beyond the walls so that they are parallel to the wall. An end board is nailed to these ends. It is covered with roofing material.

Conclusion

A properly finished eave part of the roof looks much nicer than one that is not decorated. But it’s not only decorative qualities that push builders to take this step. Overhangs that are sheathed do not allow animals, wind and moisture into the roof structure, the presence of which can have a detrimental effect on the entire structure.

Everyone dreams of building their own home. But the construction of a residential building is a complex process that requires certain skills. The final stage of building a house is considered to be the installation of the roof; considerable skills and knowledge are also required here - in order for the roof not to leak, to be properly ventilated and to last for a long time, it is necessary to carefully calculate all its parameters and select high-quality materials.

But you can arrange the roof eaves with your own hands - this is quite possible. In order to understand how to do this correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of cornices and choose the material for covering the overhang.

Types of cornices

Most modern houses have gable roofs. With this design, the building has two side walls and two front walls. Moreover, the side ones are located on those sides where the roof rafters descend, while the front ones do not have overhangs.

It is necessary to install cornices both on the side walls and above the front ones too. After all, overhangs perform a number of functions:

  • decorate the house by covering the rafter structure;
  • protect the roof from wind, cold and humidity penetrating through the open ends of the rafters;
  • are part ventilation system under-roof space: through holes in the eaves, air penetrates under the roof, ventilates the layers of thermal and waterproofing, and then is discharged through the ridge;
  • are closing top part walls from winds and slanting rains, preventing the house from getting wet.

Important! There are roof designs that do not include eaves, and there are also shortened versions of overhangs. However, for greater heat conservation inside the house and to protect it from moisture, it is still better to equip the roof with eaves.

Hip roofs have no frontal cornice, because here the rafters extend onto all four walls of the house. IN gable roofs The front cornice is the side slope of the sloping roof. Such an overhang is made by attaching load-bearing crossbars to the rafters that protrude above the walls.

You can often find a design in which the overhang is a continuation of the sheathing, which is pressed onto the vapor barrier layer. Then the cornice board is attached directly to the sheathing boards.

The side cornice is formed by rafters protruding beyond the walls. All pitched roofs have such overhangs, their sizes can be different, the norm is a cornice from 40 to 70 cm. To create an overhang, the lower parts of the rafters are cut to the same size and connected by a board to which the cornice sheathing will subsequently be attached.

It is very important to observe the roof ventilation mode during the process of filing the eaves. If this is not done, warm air will begin to condense into water, thereby harming the materials of the “roofing cake” and the walls of the house.

Attention! Ventilation holes should only be at the side eaves, while the front eaves should be hemmed tightly.

How to file a roof eaves

You can hem the roof eaves with your own hands using several materials - today their range is quite large. When choosing cladding, you need to be guided not only by the aesthetic factor, but also long term service life of the material - it should be approximately equal to the service life of the roof itself.

The most commonly used materials for hemming overhangs include:


Options for lining roof eaves

There are two popular methods for lining eaves among roofers:

Hemming the cornice along the rafters

This option is applicable only for roofs with a small slope angle. The biggest difficulty with this method is the uneven size of the rafter legs. To make the cornice smooth and neat, the edges of all rafters must form one plane.

If it is not possible to cut the rafters to one size, you need to use an additional board, which is attached to the lower edge of the rafters, perpendicular to the wall of the house. The length of the board should correspond to the distance from the wall to the protruding edge of the rafter.

First, the boards are attached to the outer rafters of one slope, then a rope is pulled between them and the boards are mounted relative to it to the remaining rafters. Such a frame is sheathed using metal corners and screws.

Framing the roof eaves along the frame

This option is ideal for roofs with a large slope. To create an overhang, a board about four centimeters wide must be secured to the lower edge of the rafters. The other side of the board is fixed to the wall of the house, or rather to a vertical strip pre-installed there. Instead of this supporting strip, you can use a beam, which is horizontally fixed to the wall with dowels.

The result should be a frame of triangular cross-section, which after covering will resemble a box closed on all sides. View at ready-made options designs can be shown in photos or videos.

The overhang or eaves of the roof is the lower part of the roof, which usually protrudes from the walls by 40-80 cm.

Its main purpose is to protect the walls and foundation from rain and melt water. The design of the cornice is carried out at the final stage of construction, when the roof is installed and the finishing work on the external walls is completed.

It is recommended to hem not only the eaves overhangs, but also the ceilings of terraces and balconies, and porch canopies. A wide selection of materials allows you to choose cladding for any architectural style, taking into account the type of roofing.

Why is the cornice hemmed?

  1. After laying the roofing material, part of the rafters and other layers of the “roofing cake” are visible from the bottom of the ends. This does not look aesthetically pleasing - the lining of the overhangs improves the roof, covering all the internal parts, and gives a complete look to the entire structure.
  2. Except decorative function, hemming of eaves protects the roofing system from damage by strong wind.
  3. Another important task is solved - proper under-roof ventilation is ensured, thanks to which the appearance of condensation, mildew and mold is eliminated. Accordingly, the service life of the structure increases.

Types of roof overhangs - what to look for.

There are two types - cornice overhang, another name is horizontal, and pediment overhang. Let's look at how they differ and the features of filing each.

Cornice overhang.

Formed by the lower fragment of a pitched roof. Air masses pass through it into the attic. In the case of a heated attic, air enters the under-roof space from below the slope, passes upward and is discharged through a ridge or aerator, this is how all elements of the “roofing pie” are ventilated.

To properly organize air draft, the eaves overhang lining must be ventilated, not continuous, but with inlet openings. To do this, use one of the following methods:

  • The simplest one is to create a gap between the panel and the wall. Based on the material used, the gap size should be: 1-1.5 cm for siding or wooden lining, 0.6-1.2 cm for corrugated sheets.
  • Integrate aeration grilles - they are installed directly into the sheathing panel.
  • When wooden boards are chosen as the finishing material, you can leave 0.5-1 cm gaps between them during installation.
  • A more popular solution is to line the eaves overhang with perforated soffit.

When finishing a horizontal overhang, two important rules must be followed:

  1. All ventilation slots and gaps must be covered with mesh or grilles. This will prevent debris and leaves, small birds and insects from getting under the roof.
  2. The volume of the slots should not be less than 1/500 of the entire ventilated area. In addition, each type of roofing material has its own hole diameter. For example, ceramics “breathe”; ventilation gaps are needed with a smaller diameter than for flexible tiles.

What happens if you neglect the ventilation of the under-roof space and tightly close the eaves overhang?

Excess moisture contributes to the formation of condensation, wetting and destruction of insulation and rafters, and the formation of mold.

— Corrosion forms on metal tiles over time, and natural tiles will burst in the cold due to excess moisture.

- overheating of the premises in hot weather and icing of the roofing in cold weather is possible; such a roof will very quickly fail and major repairs will have to be carried out.

Gable overhang.

Formed by the inclined side part of the roof slope. Here the task is the opposite - you need to protect the sheathing and insulation from getting wet and blown out, and therefore prevent the penetration of wind and rain under the roof. In this case, the filing is performed in a continuous hermetically sealed manner.

How to design the edge (end) of an overhang?

Both types of overhang have open elements at the ends. On the side of the eaves overhang, this is the end of the rafter system; on the side of the gable overhang, these are the ends of the sheathing. They are closed with special components, which can often be purchased along with the tiles.

This is done not only to give a beautiful appearance, but also to preserve the roofing materials from adverse weather factors.

Sometimes the part for finishing the edge is made of wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic and painted - but this is not the best option.

Additional components are made of metal and are more durable, as they are coated with protective anti-corrosion polymer compounds.

When shaping the edge of the eaves overhang, first the rafters are cut in one line vertically at the same distance from the wall. The ends of the rafters are connected with a strapping front board.

A metal cornice strip(dripper). A drainage system is installed along the eaves overhang.

On the side of the gable overhang, the sheathing is cut along one line parallel to the wall. A metal end strip is installed along the gables, covering the edges of the sheathing.

It is also called a wind bar; it additionally protects roof structure from strong winds and prevents debris and insects from being blown through the ends.

The main methods of filing roof overhangs:

Along the rafters.

The simplest technology and is mainly used for roofs with a slope of no more than 30 degrees. and a cornice extension of 40-50 cm. A sheathing of timber is constructed to the rafters. Sheathing panels can be mounted parallel to the wall, perpendicular to the rafters or along the end.

Horizontal filing.

Suitable for roofs with a steep slope. A box is built from the bars, which is attached to the rafters and the wall. In this case, the block on the rafters must be placed 1 cm lower than the block on the wall. This way, moisture that gets on the overhang does not linger on it.

Then the bars are nailed from the corners of the house to the corners of the roof. If the overhang protrudes more than 45 cm, another longitudinal beam is additionally installed. Next, bars are added perpendicular to the wall to strengthen the longitudinal bars. This method allows you to economically hem the overhang; installation does not take much time.

Gable overhang trim.

Regardless of the technology used to hem the eaves overhang, the pediment is always framed using sheathing. The bars are attached to it, to which the cladding strips are then fixed.

Selecting material for hemming.

Which material to use primarily depends on the overall style of the house, taking into account the decoration of the walls and the type of tiles. An important factor is the price and, of course, the personal tastes of the homeowner. It is worth taking into account the practicality and durability of the material.

Wooden board.

Wood requires special care. Before installation, it is treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds, painted and varnished. From time to time you will have to repeat these operations, otherwise insects will appear in it, it will begin to become damp and deformed, and the appearance will noticeably deteriorate.

Coniferous species are chosen for lining the cornice. The board can be planed or edged, the permissible width is 2-25 cm, thickness 1.7-2.2 cm. When mounting the boards parallel to the wall, they are fastened in increments of 1 m, perpendicularly - on both sides of the board, with a wide overhang also in the center . For ventilation, leave gaps between the boards of 1-1.5 cm.

Wooden lining.

The material has already been processed, unlike the board. But, like a board, before installation it is advisable to keep it in the air under a canopy for 1 month, otherwise the wood may be too wet or dry, which will subsequently lead to deformation. Installed in a similar way. It is possible to install ready-made ventilation grilles, which are located at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. The lining costs twice as much as the board.

OSB and plywood.

The boards must be moisture resistant. Installation is quick, since the dimensions and rigidity of the material make it possible to install large sheets at once. For installation, a box of timber is erected, to which the slabs are screwed. Ventilation is carried out by inserting grilles. This type of filing not durable and not aesthetically pleasing, definitely needs painting.

Sheet metal.

Rarely used, as it has a number of disadvantages: heavy weight, a special tool for cutting is required, and anti-corrosion treatment of steel sheets along the cut edge is mandatory. Mostly galvanized steel with a polymer coating with a thickness of 0.6 mm is used. The length of the product can reach 6 m. Rarely do they take copper or aluminum sheets. For ventilation, grilles or perforations are used.

PVC panels are installed perpendicular to the walls, screwed in several places depending on the width of the overhang. For ease of installation, various additional elements can be purchased along with the siding. To finish the edges, “U” shaped strips are placed, the joints of the panels are fixed with corners, and there are ventilation grilles. PVC siding is not recommended for installation along the overhang; it does not have sufficient rigidity and can sag. Siding is produced mainly in light shades, its cost is low. If you choose a material good quality, it will last quite a long time.

It stands out for its ease of installation and durability. Profiled sheet C8, C10 or NS 20mm is used. When designing the cornice, you should take into account the thermal expansion of the corrugated sheet and leave a gap of 0.6-1.2 cm. Fastening is carried out in increments of 1 m. Ventilation is carried out through specially designed grilles.

Soffit is a special siding for lining an overhang. Soffits are made of vinyl or metal. They have a varied texture and a large color palette. For example, wood-look metal soffits are very popular - they accurately copy the wood texture of noble wood species, such as cedar, oak, and maple.

But in comparison with natural wood, soffit does not require maintenance, does not require processing or painting, does not dry out or swell, is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, and costs several times less. Soffits are suitable for all types of tiles and can be easily matched to any architectural style.

The kit includes all the necessary components, profiles and strips, which greatly simplify and speed up installation. Soffit panels can be different types: single, double, triple, perforated or solid.

You can complete the overhang with soffit yourself; the installation procedure is very simple: the planks are cut along the width of the overhang and secured with grooves perpendicular to the walls.

Soffit is undoubtedly the most reliable and fastest way to frame cornices and is very popular among owners of private cottages.

Let's look at installation using a vinyl soffit as an example. All elements are screwed to a wooden frame:

  • The J-profile is placed across the overhang and measured.
  • Cut the J-profile with a grinder.
  • Attach the J-profile to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
  • When all the profiles are fixed, measure the distance between them and cut the soffit strip to the required size.
  • The soffit is installed. To do this, the soffit strip is inserted first into the wall overhang, and then into the eaves. Fastened with self-tapping screws.
  • The frontal part of the cornice is sewn up with J-chamfers or a strip.

You can buy soffit for lining roof overhangs at a competitive price in Yekaterinburg at “Your Roof”. Vinyl and metal soffits from trusted manufacturers are always available. We provide warranty cards and quality certificates for all products. The service life of the soffit is from 20 to 50 years.

Single-color soffits are available in light, bright and dark shades, as well as with imitation of natural wood. You can always order professional installation of cornice soffits.