Very often, customers turn to our company with a request to make products for them according to “their sizes.” As a rule, in most cases this leads to the fact that the customer, due to his inexperience, is forced to either adjust the dimensions of the window opening to these “own dimensions” or order new designs. Yes, no one is immune from mistakes, but they can be avoided. There is nothing wrong with the fact that the Customer wants to install his own windows, because, as they say: “Every man must build a house, ... etc.” Using our recommendations, every man will be able to independently take measurements from his window and doorways, and then later install new modern ones.
Let's look at taking measurements using the example of a regular rectangular opening and an opening of a complex shape (arch, trapezoid, triangle)
1. How to take the dimensions of a rectangular window (Fig. 1).
1. We measure width of the finished opening, Lpr. (opening width, mm)
2. Calculate overall window width, L (window width, cm), L = Lpr - 2*q
3. We measure finished opening height, Eg. (opening height, mm)
4. Calculate overall window height, N (window height), N = Npr - 2*q.
q is the size of the installation gap; usually q = 20-30 mm (for more details, see GOST 30971-02, clause 5.6.3.). You should not unnecessarily reduce or increase the width of the mounting seam; the first will lead to the fact that the mounting foam, when expanding, can stain the surface of the box, and second, that the mounting foam, due to having a certain expansion coefficient, will not stay in the mounting seam.
Common mistakes!
When measuring plastic windows It should be taken into account that in almost 100 cases out of 100 a stand profile is attached to the bottom of the window frame. Its working height should be taken into account when calculating the height of the window. The formula for calculating the height in this case will look like
N = Npr - q.
There are no perfect rectangular openings. Control measurements are required.
Quick check. It is necessary to measure the existing width and height of the opening at three control points, along the edges and in the center, and select a smaller value. We want our new window to fit!
The check is detailed, additional tools will be required - a level and a plumb line. With their help, the position and dimensions of an ideal rectangle are determined (Fig. 2), which can be fit into the existing opening. The dimensions of the resulting virtual rectangle are taken as the dimensions of the opening (Fig. 3).
5. We measure wall thickness, G (wall thickness)
6. Define plastic window position according to the picture (Fig. 5).
It is recommended to place the window plane at a distance of no more than 2/3 of the wall thickness from the inner surface of the wall. It should be taken into account that shifting the window towards the street worsens the thermal insulation characteristics, but improves sound insulation; shifting towards the room, on the contrary, improves the thermal insulation properties, but worsens the noise resistance.
7. We measure outer tide length, Ln.o. (length of external drip) for drip without end caps Ln.o. = Lpr + 50 mm (allowance for end bends)
for low tide with end caps Ln.o. = Lpr – 20 mm
Typical error. The width of the opening according to the thickness of the wall can be different. Be careful when measuring.
8. We measure outer ebb width, Nn.o. (width of external ebb). Nn.o.
= Gext. + (30 mm-40 mm).
Typical error. In the case of measuring the ebb, it is better to make it exactly according to your dimensions, without “reserve”. An excessively protruding spout will spoil the appearance of the facade, and one made flush with the wall will lead to the formation of smudges on the wall. 9. We measure window sill length
, Lpod. (window sill length) (see Fig. 6). Length of window sill board Lunder. must be greater than the opening width Lpr. by the total value of the left and right approaches to the wall. Common mistake consists in matching the length of the window sill and the width of the window. You should always remember that after installing a window there is its subsequent finishing, which consists of installation plastic slopes
. The corners or trims included in the installation kit of the slopes must be adjacent to the window sill board in the lower plane. 10. We measure window sill width
, Npod. (window sill width) (see Fig. 6).
Practical advice. A window sill board with a long extension can prevent the hot air flow from the heating radiator from reaching the window surface.
You should adhere to the rule that the window sill board should cover no more than 1/3 of the radiator (Fig. 8).
If the heating radiators are recessed into the wall and the window sill board covers them completely, special ventilation grilles should be inserted into the front side of the window sill. 11. We measure length of internal slopes
(plastic), Ltk. (slope length)
The length of the slope panels is calculated not based on the size of the windows, but on the size of the window opening. The length of the horizontal panel of the slope is taken to be the maximum width of the window opening Lpr max+ 30 mm (allowance for adjustment), the length of the vertical panels is the maximum height of the opening Hpr. Max-20 mm (less due to the thickness of the window sill). 12. We measure width of internal slopes
(plastic), Notk. (slope width) (Fig. 10).
The width of the panels of plastic slopes cannot be measured accurately when measuring.
The required value is taken to be a conventional value with an allowance of 30-40 mm equal to the distance from the outer edge of the wall to the imaginary plane of the frame of the new design. Expert advice. Before measuring plastic windows, you should mentally imagine what work is ahead on the external and
interior decoration premises where plastic windows are to be installed. External siding, plastering work, insulation - all this affects the width of window sill boards, external ebbs and plastic slopes. When measuring balcony and entrance doors The level of the finished floor should be taken into account. Concrete screed, laying floorboards, laminate, etc. can cause a banal coincidence of the floor level and the bottom edge
door leaf
, the door simply won't open.
For different REHAU profiles, the distance from the edge of the sash to the edge of the frame can be different; if for almost the entire line of REHAU profiles this distance is 38 mm, then for the REHAU Delight-design profile it is already 31 mm.
2. How to take measurements of triangular, round, arched, etc. windows
2. 1. Trapezoids, triangles. For plastic windows in the shape of trapezoids, triangles, with angles not equal to 90?, the previously given calculation L = Lpr - 2*q and H = Npr - 2*q (see Fig. 14) is not used.
Determine the position of the “heel” of the arch (“by eye”, or sequentially measuring the width of the opening as the height increases), make a mark;
- check the equality Lpr/2 = Npr max - Npr min;
- if the equality is true, then assign the overall dimensions of the arched product:
L = Lpr - 2*q;
Nmax = Npr max - 2*q;
Nmin = Npr min – q (lower);
- if the equality is not true, then check the position of the “heel” of the arch and repeat the check. Don't forget about the curvature of the openings
3. Arched windows (irregular arch).
- determine the position of the “heel” of the arch, sequentially measuring the width of the opening as the height increases, make a mark;
- measure Npr min, Npr max, Lpr;
- determine the overall dimensions of the arched product graphically (assigning overall dimensions using formulas for a full arch is not recommended due to some displacement of the “heel” of the arch of the product relative to the “heel” of the opening arch, see Fig. 18).
- for reference: for an incomplete arch, the radius is determined by the formula
4. Pattern openings - at least one of the sides is a combination of radii or straight lines and radii (Fig. 19).
It is possible to measure the dimensions of this type of opening only by making a template. The material can be thick cardboard, thick foil, plywood sheet.
As an example, consider the method shown in Fig. 19:
- mark an arbitrary line 0-0 on the linear part of the opening;
- stretch a thread with marked divisions along the 0-0 line;
- measure the height of the opening from the thread with a step “a” = 10?15 cm (scale grid);
- determine “by eye” the heel of the arch and the transition points from radius to radius;
- measure L1, L2, h1, h2;
- calculate R1 and R2 (using the formula for the radius of an incomplete arch);
- on general drawing draw on a scale the scale grid and radius dimensions of the opening;
- if the points of the scale grid and the radius dimensions coincide, determine the dimensions of the template using a graphical method (in case of a discrepancy, clarify the position of the heel and transition points, recalculate the radii, achieve a match);
- make a template, check it in the opening;
- according to the template, taking into account the dimensions of the linear part under the 0-0 line, manufacture the product.
Measuring the opening for installing a window must be approached very responsibly. After all, an incorrect measurement can lead to the need to carry out additional expensive work or redo the manufactured plastic window. Most window companies do not recommend measuring yourself. They are not responsible for the compliance of the dimensions of the manufactured window with the window opening if the measurements are made by the customer and not by a company specialist. But sometimes it becomes necessary to measure the window opening yourself. In this case, you need to carefully follow the instructions for measuring windows correctly.
Measurement of plastic windows
There are two types of window openings: with a quarter and without a quarter. A quarter is a protrusion from the sides and top of a window opening that prevents the window from falling out and protects against the penetration of precipitation and wind into the room. The width of a quarter in a panel house is 50 mm, in a brick house – 65 mm, or ¼ of a brick.
Window measurement occurs in 4 stages:
- calculating window opening sizes
- low tide measurement
- window sill measurement
- determination of slope dimensions
How to measure plastic windows
Measuring the window opening starts from the street side, then moves to the inside. To do this, open the window and measure the width of the opening between the quarters at the top and bottom. These details may vary. To the smallest result obtained, add 3–5 cm if the house is panel, and 4–6 cm for a brick building. This value will be the width of the window. To check whether the window width was measured correctly, compare the result obtained with the opening width of the inside of the window and with the distance between the places where the slopes touch the window frame. It should be between these values. To calculate the height of the window, you need to measure the distance from the bottom of the window opening to the edge of the upper quarter. To this value you need to add 2-3 cm to overlap the quarter and subtract 2 cm for the thickness of the polyurethane foam. If the window has a sill and a sill, a stand profile will be used when installing it. In this case, the window height value is reduced by another 3 cm. If the measurement is done correctly, then the height value will be almost equal to the distance from the end of the upper quarter to the upper edge of the ebb.
If the window opening does not have quarters, then when calculating the width of the window, subtract 3–8 cm from the width of the opening for the installation gap. The height is calculated by subtracting 5–6 cm from the height of the opening, of which 3 cm is for the stand profile.
The length and width of the ebb are calculated as follows: add 5 cm to the distance between the right and left quarters. This is the length of the ebb. To calculate its width, add 2 cm to the distance from the end of the quarters to the window.
The window sill is measured from the side of the room. It should be taken into account that the new plastic window is only 5–6 cm thick, while the windows that were installed previously are wider. Therefore, to calculate the width of the window sill, subtract 5-6 cm from the distance from the outer sash of the old window to the edge of the window sill. The length of the window sill is the distance from edge to edge of the inner part of the window opening.
The width and length of the slopes are measured along the inside of the window opening.
All values must be recorded in millimeters.
If you are building a wooden log house, do not forget to take into account that the log house will “sit down” for at least two years. If the windows will be installed immediately after the frame is assembled, then when calculating the height of the window from the height of the opening, you need to subtract 10–15% for shrinkage and another 5–6 cm for installation. The window width is measured as described above. If you do not take into account the shrinkage of the frame, then the lowered top rims of the frame can break the window. Experts recommend installing windows in a log house only after it shrinks. The method of installing windows in a log house differs from the usual one, since there should be no rigid fastening of the window to the logs, in order to avoid window breakage or “hanging” of the upper crowns. A casing box is used, which is attached to a block inserted into a vertical groove sawn at the ends of the window opening logs. In this case, the crowns can move down the block without breaking the window or becoming stuck.
If possible, you should entrust the window measurements to an employee of the organization that will produce and install the windows. In this case, you can be sure that the measurement is correct. In addition, the company will be responsible for the manufacture and installation of windows. If the measurement is made independently, then you will be responsible.
How to measure a window opening for installing a plastic window?
Hello reader! Some people like to save money.
One client calls me and asks if it is possible to order windows according to the dimensions he has already measured.
Well, I went to meet the client halfway and said that it was possible. I won’t do this again, because he took the measurements incorrectly.
And there is nothing to save there, the service is free if you order a window.
But I still think it’s necessary to talk about how to measure a window for installing a plastic window. Helpful information Further.
How to measure a window yourself
Do you know what a quarter is? What is the opposite? Or a straight opening? If you have no idea what it is, then don’t even try to measure it yourself. Despite the apparent similarity of urban development, window measurements can be fundamentally different in two seemingly identical houses. Therefore, there cannot be clear instructions here.
The measurer, as a rule, is a former installer who is well versed in this or that type of construction, but even experienced specialists with 5-7 years of work experience make mistakes. And even they are sometimes forced to tap the slopes or remove part of them when taking measurements. And his tool of labor is not only a tape measure, but also a hammer, a chisel, and sometimes a crowbar. Therefore, first of all, determine the type of your opening.
Quarter. This is a special structure of concrete or brick wall. At the same time, the size of the window from the street side is 5-25 cm smaller than the size of the opening from the room. Approximately 80% of the buildings in Moscow have similar dimensions. Most standard panel houses have a quarter, and in brick houses it is almost always present.
Reverse quarter. It happens rarely, mainly in the end parts of buildings. In this case, the size on the outside is larger than on the inside. Here, structures should be measured especially carefully.
Straight opening– the size of the window from the outside is the same as from the inside. Basically, this is a private development.
Combinations
You know that there are openings where there is a quarter on the sides, but not on the top and bottom. But there is also the opposite situation, there is above and below, but there is no left and right. It can be simple at the top and reverse at the bottom and vice versa. All these indicators form many combinations.
If you think that if an apartment has one window and a quarter, then the rest are the same, you are deeply mistaken, they can be different. And there is a certain type of house where they were inserted in production concrete slab, and the slope was filled with a concrete-based mixture there. When you look at it, it visually seems that this is a straight opening.
But during dismantling, these slopes are destroyed, and the opening becomes larger. And there are not so few such houses. Determining and taking all this into account is an art based on many years of experience. In wooden buildings, everything is usually boarded up so that nothing is visible at all. A true specialist will remove anything that interferes with the inspection.
Before you measure, listen to this advice: unless absolutely necessary, do not order plastic structures measured by yourself. There is a very high probability that the structures will be smaller than required, then there will not be enough light in your room. And it’s even worse if it’s larger, in which case you’ll have to redo the windows or increase the opening, which is very problematic.
Helpful advice!
If you want to know the approximate dimensions, just measure the length and width of your window from the side of the room with a tape measure; this is quite enough to calculate over the phone; the error will not be more than a thousand rubles, and may even be in your favor.
If you need to measure yourself.
Therefore, we will tell you how to measure windows with a quarter and straight walls. We'll leave the reverse and other cases to the specialists.
Stopped at a quarter.
The size from the street side is smaller than the size from the room. In order to measure the width of the window, measure the outer distance, from one side slope to the other, holding the end of the tape measure as close to the frame as possible. Add 3-6 centimeters to this size. For example, if the width is 140 cm, the size should be 146 cm.
To protect yourself as much as possible from mistakes, measure the width from the side of the room. It should be at least 5 cm larger than the window, that is, at least 151 cm. If the distance is less, for example 148 cm, reduce to 143 cm. This 100% applies to panel houses, in brick houses a quarter can be plastered. The plaster will be removed, so less than 6 cm is not added to the brick.
If the internal distance turns out to be much larger than the product, for example, 160 cm or even more, do not give in to the temptation to make the structure larger. In this case, the plastic frame will completely go beyond the quarter, and only glass will remain on the street, this threatens freezing due to incorrect measurement.
To measure the height, also take the length of the external opening, from the ebb to the upper external slope, usually this is the height of the product. Nothing is added to it, since a stand profile 3 cm high is installed under the window, and a window sill is attached to it. That is, if the height is 150 cm, then the product will be 150 cm plus the stand profile, for a total of 153 cm. Also check yourself by measuring the height from the room. It must be at least 5 cm more than 150 cm, that is, at least 155 cm.
Measuring a straight opening
Smooth straight walls are often found in private wooden and brick houses. You need to measure the width and subtract 4-6 cm. That is, if the width is 150 cm, then the structure is 144-145 cm.
The height size is minus 8-10 cm, that is, if the size is 150 cm, then the height of the window is 142 cm. Another 3 cm is the stand profile, that is, the total size is 145 cm.
If you are measuring in an old house, clean the surfaces, remove the trim, you should see a natural look, without details. If the building is wooden, this is not so scary; during installation you can expand it, for example, with an ax (and this happens).
And one more thing - if possible, call a measurer, or remove the old product before measuring, do not risk expensive products, plastic structures- not a cheap pleasure.
source: http://okna-biz.ru/zamer/
How to measure a window?
Everyone who is faced with the installation of plastic windows for the first time asks the question “where to start?” In order for the first installation of windows to be successful and you get a good result, you need to familiarize yourself with the materials on our website, which contain all the necessary information on the installation of plastic windows.
The first and most important job is assigned to the measurer. Quite often, the customer is absolutely unaware of what kind of walls his house has and what is inside them. In this regard, a simple call with a description of your window to order the required window will not be enough.
The customer, of course, is able to inform about the parameters of the window opening, but only a professional worker with decent experience in this service sector can establish the entire scope of the upcoming work. A good specialist must have analytical skills, be aware of the future window design, and also have personal experience window installations.
Basic rules for taking measurements
Measurements for a future plastic window must be taken both from the inside of the opening (indoors) and from the outside (from the street). The parameters of both of these measurements are critical to determine how deep the quarter is that the existing window opening has. After all, many factors influence the final size of the window.
One of the factors that must be taken into account when measuring may be the skew of the existing opening, in the presence of which the window size must be increased by the amount of the skew. To avoid the occurrence of through gaps between the window and the edge of the opening, the size of the PVC window should exceed the size of the external window opening by 3-4 and 1.5-2 centimeters in width and height, respectively.
This result can be achieved either by increasing the overall size of the window structure, or by expanding the window. In the second case, additional profiles that snap onto the box will be used. After determining the parameters of the future window, they must be compared with the control (internal) parameters of the window opening.
When making such a comparison, any error that could have been made in previous calculations may be detected, an assessment will be made of how thick a layer of plaster will be applied on the internal slopes to compare the edges of the window, as well as whether it will be necessary to demolish the slopes when installing the window designs. It is obvious that the amount of such extra work should be kept to a minimum.
Taking measurements requires:
- Proper measurement of opening parameters.
- Accurate calculation of the dimensions of structures (overall and internal) that will be manufactured.
- Taking into account the size of the window sill, mosquito net, low tide.
- Agreeing with the customer on the following:
- what the window frame will be like;
- choosing a window style and configuration;
- color scheme for seals, binding and fittings;
- select the type of glass unit;
- determining the quantity, type, color and design that the roller shutters and mosquito net will have;
- choice of material, color and dimensions for ebbs, slope and window sill.
How to measure a window yourself
The most convenient way to measure an opening is a tape measure equipped with a digital display or a telescopic ruler; a regular 5 m tape measure with 18 mm tape can also be used. The opening may have quarters (protrusions from the outer part of the wall measuring ¼ of a brick inside the opening), or may not have them. You can most often find openings with quarters in city houses, openings without quarters - in country cottages.
Note!
The height of the opening is measured twice - on the left and right sides, while the width is measured once, at the bottom. If you have any doubts about the location of the opening contour elements relative to the horizontal and vertical, you must use a level to determine the deviation and correct all calculations.
The dimensions of the structure in an opening without quarters will be 2-4 centimeters smaller than the corresponding dimensions of the opening. In addition, the vertical dimension should then be reduced by the thickness of the window sill, which in the future will be installed under the window frame.
Calculating the parameters of the opening with quarters and the parameters of the future window structure is a more complex process, especially in the case of measuring the opening of old windows and doors.
First you need to determine the thickness and height of the window sills, take measurements of the height and width between the outer quarters and the inner slopes of the wall near the window. The width that the future window will have should on average exceed the width between the outer quarters by 6 centimeters (3-9 cm).
If the difference between the sizes is more than 6 cm, it would be advisable to use wooden (rough) extensions or PVC expanders. As for the height of the future window, it should be 3-6 centimeters greater than the vertical distance between the outer quarters. The amount of overlap of the frame into the lower quarter should not exceed 2 cm.
The frame can extend into the upper quarter as much as the size of the mosquito net allows. If the vertical or upper quarter is missing, the entry into the vertical quarter will be 1.5 + 4.5 centimeters, and into the lower quarter 2 centimeters. 1 + 2 centimeters from the wall are left for insulation.
If necessary, measure the window with balcony door You should measure the parameters of the door and window, as well as the general parameters of the door and window. To calculate the width of the door, consider its lower part. The lower end of the door frame and the stone base should have a 1.5 +2 centimeter gap between them for insulation.
If you have doubts about the method of sealing the window structure (for example, in the case of a tight abutment of the top crossbar to the reinforced concrete crossbar), you can use a hammer and a blunt chisel to remove the casing and knock off a small piece of wall material. This way you can avoid errors in the size of the future window.
It is difficult for a non-professional to carry out all these measurements, which is why we recommend that you call a measurer FREE OF CHARGE and order the installation of plastic window designs on our website.
The dimensions of the sash must correspond to those indicated in the catalog window systems standards, and not exceed the maximum possible. The tilt-and-turn sash must be at least 40 cm wide. The size of glass accessible for washing on one side should be no more than 0.55 m, and the size of glass accessible on both sides should be no more than 1.00 m. A semicircular PVC arch can be at least 52 cm wide (bending diameter) .
When designing partitions for offices and glazing loggias, one should not forget that the movement of structural elements through any doors in the apartment should take place without problems.
When taking measurements during the construction or reconstruction of a structure, the weight and overall dimensions must be consistent with the project. Windows for a new house or cottage must be selected taking into account the style in which the building was built.
source: http://www.plastok.ru/faq/kak_sdelat_zamer_okna/
How to measure a window correctly
In order to correctly measure a window, it is necessary to take into account that the size of the window depends on the characteristics of the window opening and its size. Panel houses have standard openings, but in brick houses the openings may differ by several centimeters or even be non-standard (arbitrary). In the case of brick houses, window measurements should be taken especially carefully.
You can measure the window yourself, without resorting to the services of a measurer from a window installation company. Knowing the size of a wooden window it will be easier to calculate the approximate cost finished products. Of course, it is easier to take window sizes if the house has just been built and the window openings are empty, but with openings in which there are old windows it will not be much more difficult, but still doable.
Resizing windows in a wooden house (new)
IN wooden house there are no quarters (protrusions on three sides of the opening to which the window is connected). You can choose the location where it will be installed wooden window relative to the wall. Most often it is installed flush with outer wall. Since with this option it will be easier to do the exterior decoration of windows, i.e. There will be no need for external slopes - you can only get by with the platband.
We proceed directly to taking dimensions and first measure the window opening in width. To do this, measure the opening from above and below. If the dimensions are not the same, take the one that is smaller and subtract 50 mm from it (the installation seam under the foam is 25 mm on each side). We know the width of the window, then measure the height. We remove the size in the same way, take the smaller one and subtract 50 mm from it.
There is one nuance here - the presence and thickness of window sills. The standard milling made for the window sill in the lower beam is 30 mm. If the window sill is the same thickness or a little less, this is normal. In the case when the window sill turns out to be thicker, the difference between the thickness of the window sill board and the milling must be subtracted from the height of the window.
If a rough frame is installed in a wooden house, the opening for the window is measured inside the box. The width of the outer casing is determined taking into account the rough frame. Standard size boxes is 5 cm.
In order to calculate the width of the casing, we fold the grip on the wall and the box by 2 cm (4 cm on both sides), add 5 cm (box) plus 25 mm (the seam under the foam). We get the result - the width of the platbands should be 11.5 cm.
How to measure a window in a panel house (residential)
The panel house has old windows and this makes taking measurements a little more difficult. Dismantling old windows is not possible because it can take a month to make new wooden windows. Panel houses have window openings with a quarter - there is a protrusion on three sides (two on the sides and one on top).
Note!
We need to determine the width of the window opening from the outside (from one quarter to the other). To do this, through an open window (be extremely careful!!!) the distance between the quarters is measured with a tape measure. Next, we measure the opening inside the room, from one slope to another.
We subtract the outer one from the internal opening, and as a result we get the depth of the quarters. Take for example the outside width is 1380 mm and the inside is 1500 mm. Divide the resulting difference of 120 mm by two and get the result 60 mm - the width of the quarter. Now you can measure the width of the window.
Adding 30 mm to the external size on each side - 1380 + 30 + 30 = 1440 mm, this is the width of the window. The height of the window is measured in this way: the lower part should be at the level of the external ebb, and 30 mm is added to the upper quarter. For example, the height from the top quarter to the ebb is 1400 mm, then adding 30 mm we get the window height of 1430 mm. As a result, the window size that needs to be ordered is 1440 x 1430 mm.
How to take window dimensions in a brick house
In brick houses, or as they are also called “Stalinist” ones, the quarters can be quite deep - up to 10 cm. Modern windows cannot be driven into the quarters by more than 3 cm, otherwise the window frame will be hidden and the outer walls will fall directly on the glass. The thickness of the window frame and sashes (in the closed position) is 110 mm.
Also, according to GOST, the installation seam should be no more than 40 mm. The easiest way out of this situation is to order a wooden window with an increased width of the window frame. This is quite doable; in production, an additional beam of any width is added to the window frame beam and painted along with the window. Thus, the installation seam is compensated by additional timber.
Now you can measure the window, but remember that there can be many nuances in this matter since each window is individual. Therefore, it is better to contact a window installation company, only then can you be sure that everything is done correctly.
source: http://proevrookna.ru/derevyannye-okna/kak-pravilno-zamerit-okno.html
How to correctly measure the opening for a plastic window with your own hands
The measurement of a plastic window directly depends on the size of the opening you will make in your home. If the dimensions of your opening are non-standard, and you are worried that you will not be able to fit a window into it properly, do not despair. Nowadays plastic windows are made to any individual sizes and shapes.
But if you already have windows made of a different material that you want to replace with plastic, measuring the opening with your own hands, then this article is for you. First, we will tell you how to correctly measure openings for plastic windows in openings that have a “quarter” (a quarter is a protrusion from the outer sides of the window, half a brick to which the window frame is adjacent), in width:
Explaining the above: the actual size of the window will be slightly wider than the one you measure inside (in contact with the side internal slopes). The width of the window will be less than the width of the opening with the window sill.
Now we measure the window height:
- If measured from the outside, then 2 cm is subtracted from the height between the outer upper slope and the base of the opening for the mounting foam.
- Next, 1.5-2.5 cm is added to this size so that the window can fit into the upper quarter.
- If you have a window with a sill and a window sill, then subtract 3 cm from the resulting size, because we need to find out exactly the size of the window.
When using a stand profile, the height and width of the window will be 3-8 cm smaller, which will take polyurethane foam. Sometimes it happens that a quarter is more than 5 cm. In this case, an additional profile is used so as not to leave much space for the mounting foam.
Remember: the height of the plastic window should be less distance from the upper internal slope to the window sill. Together with the stand profile, the height of the window should be less than the distance from the upper internal slope to the lower side of the window sill.
If your opening does not have a quarter, then the correct measurement of a plastic window will be as follows:
- 3-8 cm is subtracted from the width of the opening.
- 5-6 cm is subtracted from the height of the opening, 3 cm of which will go to the stand profile, the rest to the mounting foam.
Window opening measurements in sections
In conclusion, we draw your attention to the fact that walls often have curvatures that need to be taken into account. Based on this, windows need to be measured along their smallest sides (the widening of the wall can always be covered with foam). If you do not plan to install plastic windows yourself, we recommend inviting a specialist to take accurate window measurements.
source: http://gold-cottage.ru/okna/kak_pravilno_zamerit_proem_pod_plastikovoe_okno_svoimi_rukami.html
Window measurement
Measuring the opening for installing a window must be approached very responsibly. After all, an incorrect measurement can lead to the need to carry out additional expensive work or redo the manufactured plastic window. Most window companies do not recommend measuring yourself.
They are not responsible for the compliance of the dimensions of the manufactured window with the window opening if the measurements are made by the customer and not by a company specialist.
Helpful advice!
But sometimes it becomes necessary to measure the window opening yourself. In this case, you need to carefully follow the instructions for measuring windows correctly.
There are two types of window openings:
- and a quarter
- quarter to.
A quarter is a protrusion from the sides and top of a window opening that prevents the window from falling out and protects against the penetration of precipitation and wind into the room. The width of a quarter in a panel house is 50 mm, in a brick house – 65 mm, or ¼ of a brick.
Measuring a plastic window
Window measurement occurs in 4 stages:
- calculating window opening sizes
- low tide measurement
- window sill measurement
- determination of slope dimensions
Measuring the window opening starts from the street side, then moves to the inside. To do this, open the window and measure the width of the opening between the quarters at the top and bottom. These details may vary. To the smallest result obtained, add 3–5 cm if the house is panel, and 4–6 cm for a brick building. This value will be the width of the window.
To check whether the window width was measured correctly, compare the result obtained with the opening width of the inside of the window and with the distance between the places where the slopes touch the window frame. It should be between these values. To calculate the height of the window, you need to measure the distance from the bottom of the window opening to the edge of the upper quarter.
To this value you need to add 2-3 cm to overlap the quarter and subtract 2 cm for the thickness of the polyurethane foam. If the window has a sill and a sill, a stand profile will be used when installing it. In this case, the window height value is reduced by another 3 cm. If the measurement is done correctly, then the height value will be almost equal to the distance from the end of the upper quarter to the upper edge of the ebb.
If the window opening does not have quarters, then when calculating the width of the window, subtract 3–8 cm from the width of the opening for the installation gap. The height is calculated by subtracting 5–6 cm from the height of the opening, of which 3 cm is for the stand profile.
The length and width of the ebb are calculated as follows: add 5 cm to the distance between the right and left quarters. This is the length of the ebb. To calculate its width, add 2 cm to the distance from the end of the quarters to the window.
Note!
The window sill is measured from the side of the room. It should be taken into account that the new plastic window is only 5–6 cm thick, while the windows that were installed previously are wider. Therefore, to calculate the width of the window sill, subtract 5–6 cm from the distance from the outer sash of the old window to the edge of the window sill.
The length of the window sill is the distance from edge to edge of the inside of the window opening. The width and length of the slopes are measured along the inside of the window opening. All values must be recorded in millimeters.
If you are building a wooden log house, do not forget to take into account that the log house will “sit down” for at least two years. If the windows will be installed immediately after the frame is assembled, then when calculating the height of the window from the height of the opening, you need to subtract 10–15% for shrinkage and another 5–6 cm for installation. The window width is measured as described above.
If you do not take into account the shrinkage of the frame, then the lowered top rims of the frame can break the window. Experts recommend installing windows in a log house only after it shrinks. The method of installing windows in a log house differs from the usual one, since there should be no rigid fastening of the window to the logs, in order to avoid window breakage or “hanging” of the upper crowns.
A casing box is used, which is attached to a block inserted into a vertical groove sawn at the ends of the window opening logs. In this case, the crowns can move down the block without breaking the window or becoming stuck.
If possible, you should entrust the window measurements to an employee of the organization that will produce and install the windows. In this case, you can be sure that the measurement is correct. In addition, the company will be responsible for the manufacture and installation of windows. If the measurement is made independently, then you will be responsible.
The dimensions of the future window are taken taking into account the characteristics of its opening. Compliance with a number of rules ensures that reliable dimensions are obtained, eliminating irreparable errors.
To work you will need:- Roulette;
- Level or plumb line;
- Screwdriver (awl);
- Pencil;
- Paper.
Parameters are always taken from the window opening, and not from old frame and boxes. The values are measured and transferred to the drawing in millimeters.
First when closed window the blockage is checked - possible deviation opening slopes from the vertical. A plumb line hangs from the top of the opening to the window sill in the right and left corners of the window. If there is a significant misalignment (more than 10 mm), the “useful” width of the opening is calculated - the distance between the vertical projections of the upper points of the rectangular box on the window sill. 50 mm is subtracted from the resulting number - the average thickness of the installation gap multiplied by two. The result found will be the estimated width of the window, and the final value is determined after external measurement.- The window is opened, the width of the opening is measured - the distance between the quarters. Using a screwdriver or awl, determine the depth of the side projections. When comparing the preliminary width of the window and the dimensions of the quarters, adjust downward the desired value for the width of the window block. In this case, the frame profile should be covered by protrusions of 35–40 mm. In the case of different thicknesses of the quarters, it is necessary to achieve symmetry of the window from the outside, sacrificing the internal arrangement, which can subsequently be corrected.
- To determine the height of the window block from the street, the distance from the low tide to the upper boundary of the opening is measured. The found value is checked:
- The lower quarter is checked - it’s good if it is 25 mm. At low depths, the height of the window decreases. For example, instead of 25 mm, 10 mm comes out, which means 15 mm is subtracted.
- Next, the distance from the upper border of the opening to the window sill is measured and compared with the expected height. There should be a difference of 40–60 mm, which will provide the required gap for the foam at the top of about 20 mm and the location of the lower edge of the new window 10–20 mm higher than the old window sill. The final result is recorded after examining two more nuances:
- Length - allowances of 80–100 mm are added to the measured opening width on both sides.
- Width - the thickness of the inner part of the wall plus the overhang of the window sill, plus 20 mm (entry under the frame).
When measuring the window sill and drainage, it is taken into account that the thickness
Methods for measuring window openings, plastic windows (PVC), important nuances in window installation.
It is unlikely that anyone will argue with the statement that incorrect installation of even the most “cool” windows can negate the entire expected effect of their use. Therefore, if you are going to install new windows yourself (and at the same time take full responsibility for the quality of installation), then it will be extremely useful for you to pay attention to all the subtleties and unexpected difficulties that are practically not described anywhere. The biggest problem is correctly determining the size of the future window. This is all the more difficult because in most cases there is an old window in the opening, which does not allow us to reliably predict “what’s inside behind it”?
- Rule one:
The master taking measurements must have excellent spatial imagination and an analytical mind, be well acquainted with the design of the future window and have personal installation experience. In most cases, measurers approach measurements with less demands, hoping “at chance,” and they try to solve problems that often arise “on the job,” i.e. over the next few months. So what should a surveyor know and take into account?
- Rule two:
The future window should be measured from both sides of the opening: from the inside (from the room) and from the outside (from the street). Both of these measurements are essential to determine the quarter depth of the existing window opening. Obviously, the window must be no smaller (!) than the external dimensions of the opening, so as not to “fall out” outside. But how much more it should be depends on many factors, we will consider them below.
- Rule three:
Never forget to check with the customer whether the outline of the existing opening from the outside will be preserved for your next visit. For old plaster, sewn-on lining may be removed from it, an additional row of bricks may be laid, or a team of builders will expand it “to other sizes” without prior notice. And your complaints about this will come down to: “Well, that was obvious!”
- Rule four:
It is necessary to take into account the fact that the existing opening may be very skewed (especially in panel houses), which leads to the need to increase the window size by the amount of skew. In other words, in order to prevent through gaps between the edge of the opening and the edge of the window frame, the size of the window must be larger than the outer size of the window opening by at least 30-40 mm in width and 15-20 mm in height. This can be achieved in two ways: either simply increase the overall size of the window frame, or expand the window using special additional profiles that snap onto the frame.
- Rule five:
Make sure that your taste and the taste of your customer coincide in terms of appearance windows from the street side. Because some people like to have almost the entire window frame walled up in the wall and not visible from the outside, while others prefer to show the window in all its glory. And try to prove which of them is right. In the same case, if the first option is preferable, do not forget about possible distortions of the window opening (see point 4), so as not to overdo it and hide not only the box itself, but also the edge of the glass unit inside the wall. The second option is more preferable due to the lower likelihood of errors and the lower severity of their consequences.
- Rule six:
Never forget that on the outside of the window at the bottom (and sometimes at the top) a drip should be installed to drain rainwater. Therefore, the lower edge of the window frame must not be lower than the outer edge of the opening (regardless of the installation method for the ebb). This is necessary in order to ensure that the special drainage holes on the outside of the window frame are not blocked. In addition, the joint between the ebb and flow and the frame (as well as between the window sill and the frame) must be sealed, for example, with silicone (preferably antiseptic). In general, it is advisable to install the sill under the window in order to eliminate any possibility of water leakage at the junction of the sill and the frame. We should also not forget about the window sill, which should also be installed under the window (and not butted to it) and sealed with silicone, which, on the one hand, increases the mechanical strength of the connection, and on the other, prevents moisture from leaking through the joint under the window sill. To prevent condensation (if any) from flowing under the window, the window sill is installed with a slight downward slope (SNIP recommends a slope of 3 degrees).
- Rule seven:
After you decide on the dimensions of the future window, compare them with the internal (control) dimensions of the window opening (see point 1). This comparison allows you to promptly detect a mechanical error in previous calculations, estimate how thick a layer of plaster will have to be applied to the internal slopes in order to level them with the edge of the window, and also whether you will have to “bite into” the slopes with a hammer drill in order for your window to fall into place. In any case, we should strive to ensure that there is less of this kind of stupid work.
A small digression.
It is no longer a secret that with all the diversity building materials The only practical method of sealing a window is to fill the joint between the window frame and the wall with polyurethane foam. The list of undeniable advantages of this option includes: excellent thermal insulation and sealing, the ability to absorb and evenly distribute mechanical stress and wind loads, indifference to unevenness of compacted surfaces, ease of use and relative low cost. Indeed, there is no more technologically advanced method today. But thoughtless and inept use of this method is fraught with very unpleasant complications.
Firstly, the foam breaks down (darkens and dries out) under the influence of sunlight and atmospheric exposure. Foam is not waterproofing material, so it must be (!) protected. Self-expanding tape that exists today PSUL (Pre-Compressed Sealing Tape) is a permanently elastic, high quality sealant tape. This elastic tape is designed to seal joints between walls and window frames, door frames, in the quarters of window frames, in facade seams, etc., expands well to 30-40 mm (can be heated with a hairdryer in the cold season) and protects the mounting foam.
PSUL tapes are different:
- excellent weather resistance;
- excellent resistance to ultraviolet rays;
- resistance to rain and wind under pressure up to 600 Pa;
- excellent adhesion and flexibility.
PSUL must be used in conjunction with Vapor barrier . Self-adhesive vapor barrier (butyl rubber) tape (duplicated with metallized or aluminum film) is used in the installation of windows and doors. Seams covered with vapor barrier tape provide reliable protection polyurethane foam from moisture from the side of the room and thereby prevents condensation from falling on the surface of the internal slopes. The foam does not lose its properties for a longer time. Eat old way ten years ago - protect the foam with a layer of sealant, plaster or, in extreme cases, paint. But it is enough to look at the freshly baked facades of new buildings to be convinced that almost no one not only does not plaster the foam, but does not even cut off its excess hanging from the canopies and joints.
Secondly, it has recently become clear that even dried foam can change its volume under the influence of temperature by at least 5%, up to 10%. As a result of these periodic “retractions and protrusions”, with a large joint thickness (8-12 cm), the window frame “walks” by an amount of 4 to 6 mm. This, on the one hand, leads to the destruction of the layer of plaster adjacent to the window, and on the other hand, to disruption of the locking mechanisms of the fittings, and the window either does not close or does not open, depending on the season. Thus, installing products only on foam, i.e. without mechanical fasteners, which was widely practiced immediately after the appearance of polyurethane foam on the market, does not withstand any criticism, does not provide rigid fastening of the window in the opening and does not prevent the foam from expanding the frame. In connection with the above, please read the following rules:
- Rule eight:
Strive to ensure that the width of the joint between the wall and the window frame does not exceed 3 cm, especially for large window sizes! Moreover, it is not at all difficult to do this - all manufacturers window profiles In addition to the main set required for the manufacture of the window itself, they must produce a full set of additional profiles that allow increasing the width of the window frame while maintaining the same glazing dimensions. These profiles are specially designed and intended for such cases, so you should not be afraid that the window will become “defective”. Moreover, I categorically do not recommend saving on such expanders. It can be difficult to explain to the Customer the need to spend his money on incomprehensible but important details.
- Rule nine:
In order to avoid serious misunderstandings in the future, it is imperative to seal the outer seam between the frame and the wall. If all the sashes in the window open, there are no big problems, the external seams are always accessible. But if there are blind parts, then it is better to seal immediately, because after the window is installed and the double-glazed windows in the blind parts are put in place, access to the external seams ceases, and the Customer will not want to remove the double-glazed windows again, or, worse, call climbers and plasterers. This point should be discussed in more detail, because a legitimate question arises: “What is the best way to seal?” Unfortunately, a technologically advanced, universal and inexpensive method is still unknown. The problem is this: the surface of the wall adjacent to the window is in most cases uneven, and the opening is skewed. Because of this, the width of the seam around the perimeter of the window ranges from 0 to 5 cm. In such cases, the only way out is to plaster and then paint to give the seam at least some elasticity at the junction with the frame. If the seam width does not exceed 15mm, then you can choose at your discretion, or silicone sealant, or use a technologically advanced, but very expensive polyurethane self-expanding sealing tape (PSUL).
The dimensions of the future window directly depend on the size and features of the opening. Panel houses have standard openings, in brick apartment buildings The dimensions of the openings may differ by several centimeters. In a private home, industrial and commercial premises, the openings can be of any kind. It is necessary to carry out measurements in such buildings with special care.
Measured in a house with quarter openings.
When measuring openings in a house with a quarter, it should be taken into account that the window should extend beyond the external slopes (Figure 1, A) on each side by 15-30 mm (only the top and sides). This is due generally accepted norm“Carrying out measurements and installation of PVC windows” according to T.R. 152-205, GOST 52749-2007.
Measuring the width of the window.
Figure 1. Measurement of the opening width.
Thus, it is necessary to add 30-60 mm to the width of the outer slope (Figure 1, size A) (less if there is a curvature of the wall). The resulting size will be the size of your window.
To check the correct measurement (width) you can use the following methods:
- The width of the window should be less than (or equal to) the distance between the places where the slopes come into contact with the frame (Figure 1, size B).
- The width of the window must be smaller than the internal window opening (Figure 1, size C).
.jpg)
Figure 2. Measurement of the opening in height.
From the base of the opening to the outer upper slope (Figure 2, dimension F), it is necessary to subtract 20 mm (the gap for the mounting foam in the lower part). To the resulting size (Figure 2, size D) it is necessary to add 15-30 mm (entering the upper quarter). If a stand profile is used ( required condition for windows with a window sill and ebb), it is necessary to subtract 30 mm (profile height) from the resulting window size. Hint: most often, dimension D is equal to the height of the window.
The dimensions of the window, both in width and height, with a stand profile should be 30-80 mm smaller than the opening for the mounting seam. If, based on the measurements, it turns out that the quarter is more than 50 mm and the foam joint is more than 40 mm, then it is worth using an additional profile.
To check the correctness of the measurement (height) you can use the following methods:
- The height of the window, excluding the support profile, should be less than the distance between the upper internal slope and the window sill (Figure 1, dimension E).
- The height of the window, taking into account the support profile, should be less than the distance from the upper internal slope and the lower edge of the window sill (Figure 2, dimensions E+G).
Measured in a house with quarter-less openings.
When measuring in a house without quarters, it is necessary to take into account that the installation gap when installing PVC windows should be within 15-40 mm (on each side). Therefore it is necessary:
Subtract 30-80 mm from the opening width. This will be the width of your window.
Subtract 50-60 mm from the height of the opening (30 mm is occupied by the stand profile). This will be the height of your window.
Be sure to take into account the possible curvature of the wall.
If these conditions are not met, we strongly recommend that you contact a professional measurer to clarify the circumstances of such discrepancy.
To help the measurer.
So, you decided to take the measurement yourself: first you need to free access to the window, open at least one sash. Window measurements should be taken from the street side and monitored from the room side. An experienced surveyor may not open the windows (especially in panel houses).
First of all, let's define what a “PVC window measurement sheet” is. Take a pen and make a small sign:
- Dimensions of the window itself (width and height), mm
- Window sill dimensions (width and length), mm
- Drainage dimensions (width and length), mm
- Dimensions of sandwich panels (or PVC, MDF panels, etc.) for finishing window slopes (width and length), mm
As you have already noticed, when ordering and calculating plastic windows, all dimensions are taken in millimeters, unlike suspended ceilings(everything is in centimeters)
ATTENTION! In this article we will look at taking measurements of windows in panel, block and brick houses and a quarter!
So: First, open the window and take measurements of the window opening from the outside (from the street side). You need to measure the width of the opening from slope to slope. For a more accurate result, measure the width of the opening at the bottom and top of the window. (see Figure 3). Write down the lowest result. Then measure the height of the opening (to the right and left of the window) and also write down the smallest size.
.jpg)
Figure 3. We take measurements outside.
Next, you need to add 20-30mm to the resulting width (for panel house), 40-50mm (for brick) This is the so-called distance for “overlapping” a new window by a quarter. But you don’t need to add anything to the height! The “overlap” on the upper quarter will be achieved due to the so-called installation profile (stand profile). We will write down the resulting dimensions in our “measurement sheet”.
Length of the ebb = distance between the right and left quarters + ~50 mm (the excess can always be cut off during installation)
Drainage width: measure the distance from the window to the end of the quarter and add 20-30 mm to it. We will obtain the required width of the ebb.
Now the window can be closed, or rather, the first part of the frame can be covered. After all, we still need to measure the width of the window sill and sandwich panels (see Fig. 4). You need to know that the new plastic window will be narrower than the old one (from 10mm to ~50-60mm), and accordingly both the window sill and the internal slopes will become wider! Measure the width and length of the window sill, the dimensions of the finishing panels and write down this data on the “measurement sheet”. Remember that more is better than less. Because excess can always be removed during installation, and this will have virtually no effect on the cost. So always leave a small margin:
.jpg)
Figure 4. Measurement of window sill and sandwich panels.
Finally, I would like to remind you that this article is intended for a general superficial acquaintance with the measurement procedure. Again and again I advise you to contact professionals to measure and install PVC windows!
Sincerely,