How to get rid of whiteflies on eggplants in a greenhouse. The most effective drugs for controlling whiteflies in a greenhouse. There are three types of drugs

Sooner or later, every gardener who grows tomatoes in a greenhouse has to deal with this insect pest. Indeed, whitefly is one of the most dangerous pests of tomatoes in a greenhouse.

Next, we’ll talk about what kind of pest this is, why it’s dangerous and, of course, we’ll look in detail at how to get rid of whiteflies on tomatoes in a greenhouse, and how to treat and spray greenhouse tomatoes that have this pest.

The most famous types of whitefly:

cabbage;
tobacco (cotton);
citrus;
strawberry;
greenhouse (greenhouse).

In this article we are interested precisely greenhouse whitefly, which damages tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants and some flower plants growing in greenhouses, greenhouses and apartments.

Main characteristics of the greenhouse whitefly:

Distributed everywhere in closed ground (including indoor conditions).
In a greenhouse and tropical climate it develops year-round (gives 3-4 generations), in temperate latitudes, in the wild and in greenhouses - only in the summer at above-zero temperatures, in other words, the whitefly does not survive winter.

The optimal conditions favorable for the active formation of whitefly colonies on tomato leaves are the following:

Air temperature - +20–25 degrees.
Relative air humidity - 60–80%.

In other words, the whitefly prefers moist and relatively shady places.

Thus, the main reason for the appearance of whiteflies in a greenhouse is a violation, for example, excessive density of plantings and lack of ventilation.

The life cycle of a whitefly, like most insects, consists of three main stages (in total it lasts about 30-40 days):adults (imago), eggs, larvae(phase lasts 10-14 days), puparia (4th instar larva, “false” cocoon). Then the cycle repeats and a second generation appears.

Interesting! The whitefly is characterized by a tiered distribution of individuals:

on young leaves - imago (adults) and eggs,
below - larvae;
on the lowermost leaves there are puparia and adults (adults) of the new generation.

Actually, the adult whitefly itself is an indirect pest. It is the females who lay eggs, placing them on the underside of the leaves.

Appearance of an adult whitefly- the body is pale yellow, with two pairs of wings with a white coating, 1-1.5 mm long, reminiscent of a moth.

The main pest is the whitefly larva, which immediately after leaving the egg attaches to the underside (inner) side of the leaf and begins to feed (suck out the juices - all the nutrients) from it.

Whitefly larva- elongated oval shape, flat, pale green, 0.3–0.9 mm long.

Adults (imago) and whitefly larvae

Thus, the main harm caused by the whitefly at the larval stage is that insect sucks juice from tomato leaves, and also additionally releasing a sugary sticky enzyme, which is a favorable environment for reproduction sooty fungus (“black fungus”).

It is very important to prevent large-scale whitefly dominance in your greenhouse, otherwise it can simply destroy all your plants.

The greenhouse whitefly is also a malicious carrier of many pathogens: yellow leaf curl virus (one of the causes), leaf mottling virus, infectious chlorosis. Moreover, both adult individuals (imago) - males and females - and, in some cases, larvae are capable of transmitting viruses.

How does a pest get into a greenhouse?

Most often, whiteflies are brought into the greenhouse along with purchased seedlings(which was grown in industrial greenhouses) or on clothes, because she can easily move with indoor plants(fuchsia, pelargonium, balsam, citrus), or from purchased greens(again grown in a greenhouse). They are also infected with whiteflies cut flowers. And often the pest enters the greenhouse together with purchased soil(which has already been used in greenhouses) or again through seedlings grown in contaminated soil.

Signs of whitefly appearing on tomatoes in a greenhouse

After planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, after 10-14 days, it is necessary to inspect the tomato foliage for the presence of whiteflies. So, if you touch the leaves and white butterflies immediately fly up from them, this means that whiteflies have appeared on your tomatoes and, most likely, have already laid their eggs.

Advice! When inspecting tomato bushes, use a magnifying glass, because... insects are very small.

As we found out earlier, whitefly larvae feed on the juice of young leaves, which significantly weakens the immunity of the plant (tomato). This manifests itself in a slowdown in the growth and development of tomato bushes, and also negatively affects their flowering, fruit formation and fruit ripening.

In addition to the direct harm caused by the pest itself, the condition of plants is negatively affected by sooty mushrooms, which settle on the sugary secretions of whitefly larvae.

First, a sticky coating (honeydew) forms on the foliage in the form of shiny white spots (the waste product of the larvae), then they (the spots) become covered with sooty fungus (“black”) and turn black (a black coating forms on them). As a result, it (the fungus) clogs the pores of the leaves, which makes the processes of respiration and photosynthesis difficult. As a result, the affected leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off.

Thus, due to the harmful activity of the whitefly (namely its larvae), tomatoes begin to get sick and lag in growth, which leads to uneven ripening of the fruit, as well as to a change in the color of the fruit core from pink or red to white. As a result, the commercial quality of the fruits drops noticeably.

By the way! In terms of its negative effects, the whitefly is in many ways similar to aphids.

Preventive measures against whitefly on tomatoes: how to protect tomatoes in a greenhouse

Remember! It is easier to prevent any problem than to fix it later.

To prevent the appearance of whiteflies, it is recommended to take the following preventive measures:

Conduct regular preventive inspections for the presence of pests in the greenhouse.
Promptly destroy weeds.
Observe the growing conditions of the crop.

Proper use and care of the greenhouse, namely:

every autumn and/or spring should be carried out cleaning (remove all vegetation), including steaming or freezing the soil in a greenhouse (if you are a resident of the southern region);

By the way! About how to do it right prepare the greenhouse in the spring for the planting season, told, and process in autumn — .

However, it is worth considering that, unlike spider mite The whitefly does not persist on the surface, in the greenhouse, only in the ground.

provide adequate ventilation in the greenhouse;
carry out other preventive measures and use special protective equipment and control methods.

Video: how to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse in the fall

How to fight whitefly on tomatoes: when and what to treat - the best control methods

There are several ways to combat whitefly in a greenhouse on tomatoes:

mechanical methods (glue traps);
biological methods (colonization of the greenhouse with entomophagous insects);
chemical methods (preparations against insect pests - insecticides).

And also folk remedies, decoctions of various herbs, but it’s worth saying right away that they are very ineffective... very.

Indeed, getting rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse is quite difficult. Therefore, be sure to regularly carefully inspect your greenhouse tomatoes (namely the underside or back of their leaves) in order to detect its appearance as early as possible and prevent it from multiplying too much. If you notice even a small number of adults, proceed to treatment without delay.

Advice! For effective fight with whiteflies, use all possible methods. You are unlikely to be able to completely destroy whiteflies in a greenhouse, but it is possible to reduce their numbers and reduce their harmfulness.

Video: whitefly and methods of combating it

Mechanical methods

The fight against whitefly in a greenhouse can be successfully carried out using yellow sticky tapes, glue traps, hung in the greenhouse, as well as fumigators.

Pay attention! Naturally, such measures will only help you get rid of flying adults. If they have already laid eggs, only chemical and biological agents struggle.

You can purchase sticky tape or glue traps at a hardware or gardening store, or you can make your own.

To make a whitefly trap yourself, with your own hands, you need to cover a sheet of cardboard or plywood (about 20 by 20 cm or more in size) with a layer of yellow paint, and then apply an adhesive base, for example, honey, technical petroleum jelly, grease, castor or any other mineral oil, rodent repellent glue. Next, hang this yellow sticky cardboard on a rope (string) at the level of the tops of the plants.

By the way! According to experts, it is better to use cardboard to create a whitefly trap. yellow, since this shade is able to attract insects. As a result, whitefly butterflies will fly to bright squares and stick to their surface.

There is an opinion that it is effective to use against whiteflies. fumigator(which is usually used against mosquitoes and flies). To do this, you need to plug the device into the power supply (by extending the extension cord into the greenhouse) and completely close all doors and ventilation vents. An obvious disadvantage of using this product is the fact that, in addition to the whitefly, the fumigator destroys all other inhabitants of the greenhouse, including beneficial ones.

Advice! You can also simply get rid of the pest mechanically periodically irrigated tomato bushes plain water and then washing the leaves with soapy water.

Biological methods

To combat whiteflies, you can use insects that feed on this pest (they are also called entomophagous insects).

This option is especially relevant for gardeners who exclude any use of chemicals.

These include ladybug, lacewing fly, ichneumon beetle.

You can purchase biological enemies of whiteflies in specialized stores or online resources.

Chemicals

Naturally, the easiest way to quickly and completely get rid of whiteflies on tomatoes in a greenhouse is to use chemicals (insecticides).

A few rules and tips for spraying tomatoes against whiteflies:

Solutions should be prepared only according to the instructions on the packages, following the dosage recommendations (no less and no more).
Solutions should also be used only according to the instructions.

It should be processed either early in the morning, before the first rays of the sun appear, or late in the evening, after sunset. If during the day, then only in cloudy weather.

Be sure to pay attention to the waiting period after processing (after how long you can eat the fruits).

Important! Systemic drugs have a long waiting period (up to 20 days), i.e., when tomatoes ripen, they can no longer be used.

Be sure to pay attention to the expiration date of the drug, i.e. How long will it protect your plants from pests?
To improve the effect of treatment, you can mix drugs with different active ingredients (preferably from different chemical classes).
As a rule, the first application is carried out when the pest first appears, and repeated applications are carried out at intervals of 7-14 days.

As a result, you will have to carry out several treatments, because... Most drugs act only against adults (imagos), and they have no effect on the larvae.

The treatment must be carried out very carefully, especially spraying the inner (lower) part of the leaves.
In order not to cause the pest to become addicted, you should periodically alternate the drugs, or rather their active ingredients.

Pay attention! Many drugs from different companies have the same active ingredient.

The most popular and effective drugs (insecticides) for getting rid of whiteflies on tomatoes are (the active substance, method of penetration or nature of exposure and chemical class are given in parentheses):

Alatar (
Alioth ( Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact insectoacaricide, class of organophosphorus compounds (OPC);
Aktara ( Thiamethoxam (Aktara), systemic insecticide of enteric contact action, class of neonicotinoids);

Pay attention! Used to water the soil under plants.

Actellik (Pirimiphos-methyl (Actellic) , systemic enteric-contact insectoacaricide + fumigant, class of organophosphorus compounds (OPS);
Biotlin ( Imidacloprid, systemic insecticide with enteric contact action , class of neonicotinoids);

Inta-Ts-M ( Malathion (Karbofos) and Cypermethrin, insecticide of contact-intestinal action, class pyrethroids + organophosphorus compounds (OPS);
Intavir ( Cypermethrin, insecticide of contact-intestinal action, pyrethroid class);
Karate Zeon (Lambda-cyhalothrin , insecticide of contact-intestinal action, pyrethroid class);

Golden spark ( Imidacloprid, systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, class of neonicotinoids);
Talstar (Bifenthrin (Talstar), insecticide of contact-intestinal action, pyrethroid class);
Teppeki (Flonikamid, has systemic and translaminar activity, chemical class - pyridine carboxamides);
Bison ( Imidacloprid, systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, class of neonicotinoids).

Interesting! There are also biological agents against insect pests, such as Akarin, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Actofit, Verticillin. However, they are not very effective against whiteflies.

Video: how to deal with whitefly

Folk remedies

If the whitefly infestation of tomatoes in a greenhouse is not very severe, then in order not to use chemicals, you can try using folk remedies, which, as a rule, use various infusions of herbs, garlic, etc.:

By the way! Folk remedies are most often used to get rid of whitefly larvae, rather than adults.

Turpentine + camphor oil (10%).

Recipe from the Procvetok channel for 10 liters of water (basic):

gum turpentine (up to 1.5 l - for the most difficult cases for plants with dense leaves, up to 1 l - for difficult cases for more delicate plants (tomato, cucumber), 0.2-0.5 l - for prevention on all plants and in the case of single pests)

laundry or green soap - up to 50-150 g (depending on the amount of turpentine),

aqueous solution of ammonia (25%) - 1-2 tablespoons - to enhance the dissolving effect of turpentine.

Modifications:

Turpentine can be replaced (up to 50%) with 10% camphor oil.

You can add 50-100 ml of tincture of mint, eucalyptus, pine extract to the solution.

You can replace it with decoctions of the same plants - 100-200 g of dry plants are boiled in a liter of water, the decoction is infused and added to the turpentine solution.

Benzyl benzoate - 20-30 ml per 1 liter of solution.

It is very good to restore plants from damage by pests by adding nicotinic acid to the solution - 1 tablet of 50 mg for each liter of solution (either 3 grams of dry or 12 grams of raw yeast).

Plants should be watered or sprayed with a similar composition in the evening, over well-watered soil.

Waiting period: if without benzyl benzoate, then it’s practically gone. But first you just need to remove the fruits, then process them and wait at least 24 hours. If with benzyl benzoate, it is better to wait 2-3 days. It is clear that fruits and vegetables must be thoroughly washed after any treatment, even if it is just laundry soap or whey.

Garlic tincture;

Dandelion infusion;
Infusion of wormwood;
Infusion of yarrow;
Tobacco infusion.

Some summer residents also carry out anti-whitefly fumigation of greenhouses with tobacco sticks(not sulfur, but tobacco).

You can also try to artificially lower the temperature in the greenhouse (as you remember, the favorable temperature for whiteflies is +20-25 degrees), opening the greenhouse at night, installing windows and doors for ventilation.

Of course, it will not be possible to completely destroy the pest using these methods, but it is quite possible to reduce the population.

Thus, now you know that, first of all, it is necessary to follow the basic rules for caring for and growing greenhouse tomatoes, as well as carry out preventive measures. But in any case, you will most likely have to use one of the above methods to combat whitefly on tomatoes.

Video: anti-whitefly remedies

This small insect came to the European continent from the countries of South America with a warm and humid climate. Therefore, its main habitat becomes enclosed spaces with high humidity. Since whiteflies can cause significant damage to plants in a short time, many methods have been developed to combat the pest in greenhouses.

Tiny insect causes a lot of damage in agriculture

Choosing effective method How to get rid of whiteflies, it should be understood that it should affect not only the sexually mature individual, but also the insect larvae.

The body of an adult is yellowish in color and covered with a white coating. Its length is about 2 mm with a width of 0.4 to 0.7 mm. On the head are clearly visible long antennae and a pair of dark eyes.

Two pairs of opaque white wings, like the body, are covered with pollen. Sometimes they may have dark, blurry spots of varying sizes. The insect has 3 pairs of legs, divided into segments, that are clearly visible.

Life cycle of a pest

In temperate climates, the whitefly can overwinter both near the surface of the earth in a layer of plant debris and under the bark of trees. Therefore, when deciding how to get rid of whitefly larvae in the ground, you should dig up the soil in order to freeze it, promptly burn fallen leaves and grass, and also turn over compost heaps.

Life cycle of a pest

Adult females begin to lay eggs in the second half of spring or early summer, when stable air temperatures range from 20 to 30°C.

Insects attach eggs to the lower surface of leaves in small chaotic groups or in the form of rings of 50-300 pieces. By appearance they resemble clusters of transparent scales.

After 9 days, a larva emerges from the egg and goes through 4 stages of development:

At the first stage, the length of the larva does not exceed 0.3 mm. The body has a flat oval shape, with antennae and legs visible on it, allowing the larva to move in search of food during the first 15 hours after emerging from the egg. Having found a suitable part of the plant, it sticks to it, stops moving and begins to actively feed. Together with the juice, the larva receives the amino acids necessary for its further development. This phase lasts about two weeks and ends with the molting process.
The second stage is characterized by the appearance of not yet developed antennae and legs.
At the third stage, the nymph's body becomes greenish and covered with a wax-like coating. Eyes appear on the front of the body.
At the fourth stage, the size of the larva reaches 0.75 mm. The body ceases to be flat and becomes noticeably rounded. Over the course of 13-15 days, anatomical formations characteristic of adult individuals appear on it.

After emerging from the pupa, the imago is ready to reproduce. Therefore, fertilization, egg laying and death of insects occur within 14-30 days.

There is no clear answer to the question whether a whitefly that overwinters in a greenhouse can produce offspring at this time or whether this requires it to overwinter in a dormant state. The development process of an insect is very dependent on temperature regime ambient air and the presence of a nutrient substrate.

In heated greenhouses with temperatures above 25°C, reproduction occurs throughout the year. But whether a whitefly can survive in a greenhouse where there is no heating, or whether it dies in winter, depends on the quality of soil cultivation.

Signs of plant infection

You may not immediately suspect that a whitefly has appeared in the greenhouse. This is due to the fact that the eggs, which look like translucent scales, are located on the back surface of the leaves and do not manifest themselves in any way. Only after the larvae emerge from them can you notice a change in the condition of the plants, indicating that they have a whitefly infestation, and think about how to deal with it in a greenhouse.

It is quite difficult to notice the eggs by chance, since they are on the back of the leaves

When planting plants in a greenhouse, you need to know what causes whiteflies to appear and what factors contribute to this. The main ones include:

temperature range from 20 to 30°C;
increased humidity coefficient;
crowding of plants;
poor or no ventilation.

If the greenhouse is heated during the cold season, then the whitefly overwinters in it, maintaining its ability to reproduce. At the same time, there are several answers to the question of where whiteflies come from in a greenhouse:

migrates independently from open areas;
introduced with infected plants;
gets in with humus or compost.

Knowing the conditions in which the whitefly prefers to develop, you can decide how to get rid of it in the country.

How to remove whiteflies from a greenhouse

When choosing a way to defeat whiteflies in a greenhouse, it is worth taking into account the type of plants planted in it, the degree of infestation and technical conditions that allow for various types of treatments.

In greenhouse conditions, the pest feels great, so it is imperative to fight it

For processing ornamental plants Any methods can be used, but if we are talking about fruit crops, then preference should be given to mechanical and biological methods.

For example, when deciding how to deal with whiteflies on tomatoes and cucumbers during the flowering period, you can use traditional methods spraying with decoctions of certain plants or washing the foliage with laundry soap. When there are fruits on cucumbers and tomatoes, traps and mechanical collection of adult moths and their larvae are suitable.

Treatment of the greenhouse in the fall immediately after harvesting helps to minimize the possibility of insect spread:

Before carrying out such activities, the greenhouse space should be cleared of old plants infected with whitefly. They must be burned and not buried in the ground or stored in an open area.
Next, before digging up the ground, it should be treated in the fall against whiteflies with a mixture of equal parts of copper sulfate and lime. Experts recommend dissolving 400 g of the mixture in 10 liters of water. This procedure can be carried out no more than once every five years. An alternative is a solution of potassium permanganate, diluted to a faint pink color.
To get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse, it is necessary to remove the transparent covering of the structure made of polycarbonate or other material for the entire cold period. If it is technically impossible to do this, the soil should be ensured to freeze in any other possible way.

Mechanical method

The safest methods of controlling these pests are mechanical methods:

First, you must try to remove all the larvae and adults by hand or wash them off with water and laundry soap dissolved in it. The disadvantages of this method are the labor intensity and duration of the process. It is quite logical that it will not be possible to destroy all pests 100%, but this will help preserve the plants and harvest the harvest.
The most effective and well-proven remedy against this pest in greenhouses is glue traps. Finished goods You can buy it or make it yourself. For this purpose, it is worth using cardboard or pieces of plywood painted orange-yellow, which attracts insects. Next, bring a mixture of equal parts of castor oil, rosin, caramel and petroleum jelly to a homogeneous mass in a water bath. Let it cool slightly, smear the prepared forms with it and place them next to the infected plants. Adults very quickly fly to the bait, stick to it and die, but the eggs remain intact.

This method is most suitable for the spring period, when there is a mass emergence of females after wintering, as well as for the time of fruit ripening and harvesting.

Chemicals

If mechanical methods are ineffective, it is worth resorting to synthetic control agents that help destroy pests at all stages of development. You should carefully study the effect of water-soluble tablets, powder, liquids and solutions that allow you to use chemicals to fight these insects.

The list of the most popular drugs used to poison whiteflies in a greenhouse includes:

“Aktara”, which affects the digestive system of adults and larvae in such a way that they stop sucking juice from plants, continuing to maintain their viability for a certain period.
“Aktellik”, spraying with which leads to the death of pests within an hour.
"Oberon" kills whitefly nymphs and sterilizes mature individuals.
"Karbofos" almost instantly kills insects and their larvae only with direct contact during spraying.

A regular fumigator will also help in the fight against whiteflies. Having placed the fumigator as close as possible to the accumulation of insects, the person should leave the room, returning to it only after thorough ventilation. After a week, the procedure should be repeated to destroy the larvae that hatched from the eggs during this time.

After harvesting, in winter and before planting plants in spring, it is necessary to disinfect greenhouse soil from whiteflies using copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Biological method - destruction of whiteflies by other insects

Experience shows that insects that are its natural enemies help get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse:

Encarzia. The female of this rider causes the death of whitefly larvae by laying her eggs in them. The rider is launched into the greenhouse 10-14 days before the seedlings are planted.
Macrolophus bug. During its life, this predator is capable of destroying up to 2,500 pest larvae in 1 month.

The whitefly is also afraid of the ladybug, which, when it enters the greenhouse, significantly reduces the number of its larvae.

Folk remedies

To quickly get rid of whiteflies on vegetable crops, you can treat them with such means as herbal infusions and soap solution.

There are many folk remedies that help fight the pest.

When choosing how to get rid of whiteflies on vegetable crops, you can try to treat them folk remedies, which do not have a harmful effect on humans:

Dandelion infusion. Take 0.04 kg of crushed roots and green parts of the plant, pour them with a liter of hot water and leave for three days in a place protected from sunlight.
Garlic infusion. Chop 2 medium cloves of garlic, add 500 ml of water and leave for a week. For spraying, dilute 5 ml of product in 1 liter of water.
Infusion of yarrow. Grind 100 g of plant leaves, pour in 1 liter of boiling water, keep in a dark place for a day, then filter.
Laundry soap solution. Using a knife or grater, chop a piece of soap and dissolve it in 6 liters of water. This product can be used to spray tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetable crops, as well as treat the green parts of plants with it using a sponge.

Repeated treatment should be carried out after 7-10 days, when the larvae emerge.

Fumigation

Most effective means from whiteflies in the greenhouse is a sulfur bomb. Its smoke envelops all parts of the plants, penetrates the soil and hard to reach places premises, destroying pests.

Sulfur bombs emit smoke that kills pests even where humans cannot reach

However, in case of severe infection, it is necessary to repeat the procedure 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days. This is due to the fact that the smoke bomb used to destroy whiteflies in a greenhouse has an effect only during fumigation and for 2-3 hours after it. During this period, insect eggs do not lose their viability.

How to get rid of whiteflies on vegetables and other plants in open ground

It seems that fighting the described pest in open conditions easier than in a greenhouse, since at subzero temperatures it dies. However, if there is an infested greenhouse in one of the nearby areas, then immediately after the onset of warm days the insect spreads very quickly and affects tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetable crops. In this case, immediate destruction measures should be taken.

If a whitefly appears on a strawberry, then before choosing chemical drug, we must try to influence the pest using the natural means described above. But if the insect has already given birth to offspring, and a sooty coating is noticeable on the foliage, then it is impossible to do without insecticides.

When deciding how to get rid of whiteflies on strawberries, grapes and other fruit crops, preference should be given to products whose active ingredient is avermectin, because it does not accumulate in plant products. Preparations containing organophosphorus compounds and pyrethroids remain in the soil and fruits for a long time, having a negative effect on the human body.

To spray fruit crops, you need to select the right chemicals

To disinfect an area from both whiteflies and other pests, spraying should be carried out once every 7-8 days until all insects are exterminated, observing the following rules:

on this day there should be no precipitation and strong winds should not blow;
insecticides should be alternated, as the drugs quickly become addictive and lose effectiveness;
Do not carry out the event on a hot sunny day to avoid burns on the leaves.

Those who grow strawberries and do not know how to get rid of whiteflies are recommended to additionally spray in August. This will prevent insect eggs from contaminating the soil.

How to get rid of whiteflies on indoor plants

Knowing how to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse will help you get rid of them on flowers grown in pots at home. Need to:

isolate the affected plant;
disinfect flower trays, window sills, racks and windows with a soap-alcohol solution;
cut off and burn all affected parts of plants;
remove the top layer of humus in flower pots.

Next we get rid of indoor flowers at home from eggs and larvae of the pest by wiping the leaves with a mixture of ammonia and water (1:9) or tar soap dissolved in water. But indoor crops such as geranium, pelargonium, violet and other flowers with pubescent leaves are best sprayed to get rid of whiteflies. To destroy sexually mature individuals, we use mosquito traps and fumigators.

You can get rid of whiteflies on indoor flowers using both folk and chemical means. The most effective insecticidal preparations are recognized:

Akarin;
Vertimek;
Fitoverm;
Aktara;
Tanrek.

Experienced flower growers advise alternating medications that help get rid of whiteflies on myrtle, spathiphyllum and other flowers, as they quickly become addictive in insects.

Prevention

Before leaving the greenhouse for the winter, it should be treated against whiteflies and other garden pests, following the care tips:

Burn all plant waste left after harvesting.
Dig up the soil.
Ensure freezing of its deep layers by removing the top covering from the greenhouse.
Do not make compost pits in the greenhouse.

Work in the greenhouse in the fall, if there was a whitefly in it, should include treating the load-bearing structures of the building with a bleach solution.

Preventive measures also include the application of nitrogen fertilizers, which increase the resistance of plants to infection by insects, fungi and infectious diseases.

In the spring, purchased plants should not be immediately planted in a greenhouse. It is best to keep them in a separate room “quarantined” to check for pests.

Cleaning the area around the greenhouse

To get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse, it is worth removing plant debris and fallen leaves from the area adjacent to it, and also treating the tree bark with a bleach solution. But the soil in the greenhouse should be treated with copper sulfate even before planting vegetable seedlings.

Kira Stoletova

Many farmers lose large amounts of their crops due to pest attacks. Tomatoes - garden culture, which are most often attacked by all kinds of pests. Often the vegetable is grown in greenhouse conditions for sale. Whiteflies on tomatoes in a greenhouse are especially dangerous. If strict measures are not taken to destroy it in time, the insect can cause irreparable damage to the crop. What methods exist to deal with “unexpected” guests?

How to identify symptoms of pest infestation?

Whitefly on tomatoes in a greenhouse is a fairly common occurrence. The insect reproduces quickly in warm, humid conditions, and a greenhouse is an ideal place for this. If measures are not taken in time, it may appear on cucumbers, herbs and other crops growing nearby. The fight against whitefly on tomatoes in a greenhouse is particularly difficult due to the high adaptability of adult individuals to various types processing. The danger to the normal development and fertility of the plant is posed not only by adult individuals, but also by larvae and their metabolic products. Manifestations of pest damage:

white spotting in the form of dots;
atrophy of some parts of the stem, leaf part, curling of leaves;
larvae at the bottom of the leaves;
mosaic yellow pattern on the edges of the leaves;
fetal atrophy.

All these signs indicate that you need to intervene immediately, otherwise the entire crop planted in the greenhouse may die. The waste products of whitefly larvae are fertile ground for the proliferation of all kinds of infections and many strains of fungus. Any disease combined with an invasion of pests will be impossible to cure, and then the entire crop will have to be destroyed.

Biological methods for eliminating moths

The whitefly feels at ease in the greenhouse on tomatoes. Warm, humid conditions promote its rapid reproduction. To prevent the complete destruction of the tomato crop, you need to perform the following steps before starting to breed it:

plants need to be separated from each other so that they are at a distance of 5-10 cm;
equip the greenhouse with good ventilation;
add all kinds of strengthening agents to the water for watering plants;
do not destroy insects such as ladybugs and lacewings - these are avid enemies of whiteflies;
observe the humidity regime.

Insects such as the lacewing lay their eggs directly into the pupae of the harmful moth. When the first ones hatch, they begin to feed on whitefly larvae. As a result of this, the whitefly offspring die and all that remains is to get rid of the adult offspring, which will be very easy to do after the death of the pupae.

To prevent the appearance or get rid of existing pests, you can treat the seedlings with special preparations. It is recommended to place a small amount of chicken manure in the holes before sowing; this will help strengthen the tomato’s immunity. In order for the soil to promote plant growth and not the proliferation of whiteflies, it must be constantly weeded, weeded, and dried.

Other ways

Whiteflies can be removed by catching them with special glue-based traps. Devices for catching whiteflies can be made independently from small wooden boards. They should be treated with rosin with the addition of honey or Vaseline oil. The main thing is to paint the fixtures yellow because insects are attracted to this color. At the top of the bush you need to pull the twine with homemade trap. After this, you need to shake the plants, when some of the pests are on the bait, it needs to be destroyed and a new one built.

If whiteflies on tomatoes in a greenhouse have recently appeared and their numbers are relatively small, you can collect the moths by hand, and then treat the leaves and stems with a soap solution to wash off their waste products and prevent infection with infectious diseases. Subsequently, it is recommended to regularly spray with garlic infusion. In the fall, it is recommended to remove all remaining vegetation and disinfect the soil that will be used for planting next year.

The whitefly larva settles in the top layer of soil. After harvesting the tops, you need to set fire to smoke bombs, and then collect the entire top ball of earth. If all the above control methods do not produce results, you will have to resort to the use of fungicides. Chemical agents will help get rid of whiteflies for a long time, but they have a lot of disadvantages. The first and main one is the chemical composition.

How and with what do you fumigate a greenhouse?

The use of smoke bombs should be discussed in more detail. After each harvest, the greenhouse should be treated. Ideally, fumigation should be carried out twice a year. There are such means for fumigation:

smoke bomb;
sulfur candle;
tobacco checker.

Any variety of checkers is considered harmless to plants. It is better to fumigate in spring and early autumn. Before carrying out the procedure, you should take the seedlings to a separate room or outside. If you don’t want to do this, you can use fumigation products with the addition of a special drug. As a result of such procedures, it is possible to get rid of not only adult individuals, but also larvae with pupae.

A sulfur candle releases sulfur into the atmosphere, the vapors of which can cause negative impact on plants and humans. Before using it, you should carefully study the instructions for the drug. After fumigation, after 48 hours, it is necessary to thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse.

Chemicals

To completely destroy and forget about whiteflies on tomatoes and cucumbers for a long time, use universal insecticides. Many farmers are reluctant to use them because of the chemical composition, but when nothing else helps, and the crop needs to be preserved, people are ready to take extreme measures. At correct use insecticides and following all safety rules described in the instructions, you don’t have to worry about your health.

Humanity has been working on the earth for many years and trying to fight various pests. Progress does not stand still, and today on store shelves you can choose any fungicide for treating plants. The most popular means for killing whiteflies are presented below.

Verticillin J.
Confidor.
Actellik.
Pegasus.
Rovikurt.
Fufanon.

In addition to chemicals for treatment during infection, there are many systemic drugs that are used when planting seeds. In order to prevent the appearance of whiteflies on tomatoes and other crops in a greenhouse, the drug Biotlin is used. Spraying is recommended during the active growing season. Another drug with a similar effect, which is also used during the growing season, is Warrant.

Aktara is introduced under root system, with drip irrigation. Iskra M is a broad-spectrum drug that helps to quickly get rid of many pests that can settle in a greenhouse. Treatment with it should also be carried out during the growing season.

Folk recipes against moths

Most gardeners prefer to fight whitefly on tomatoes using proven old-fashioned recipes. Such methods are completely safe and help improve plant health. Garlic tincture helps to effectively get rid of whiteflies on tomatoes. For 1 l. Add a couple of peeled heads of garlic to the water and leave for about 10 days. Then spraying is carried out.

A solution of potassium permanganate is very often used for watering and treating plants. A very long time ago, people began to use methods of treating plants against pests with a soap solution. With a small number of insects, this the right way defeat the whitefly. Decoctions of dandelion roots or aloe leaves are often used. Treatment must be carried out at least once a month.

The frequency of spraying and watering will be determined by the number of insects, as well as the condition of the plants themselves. It is not recommended to use products to get rid of other insects to combat whiteflies. The fight against this type of parasite is complicated by their immunity to most chemicals.

Friends, the whitefly is an insidious insect! The fight against it is one of the most difficult, but possible. In this article we will learn how to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse.

The main thing is not to be late!

Friends, keep in mind that many insecticides (and pesticides too) in this case may become ineffective. The fact is that the fight against whiteflies in a greenhouse should take place when the insect is in the larval stage or in the imago. At a later date, everything chemicals will already be useless.

What is a whitefly?

This is a garden pest that looks like aphids. The whitefly has a yellowish tint. The length of its body is no more than 1.5 mm! It will be very difficult to identify it with the naked eye. Thousands of swarms of whiteflies destroy the plant in a matter of days, sucking all the juices out of it!

Not everything is sour cream for the cat!

Before we tell you how to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse, we should make a small disclaimer. Please note that it is greenhouse crops that are more susceptible to attacks from this pest, because the whitefly’s favorite place is greenhouses and greenhouses! It is in them that ideal climatic conditions are created for the insect.

As we said above, very often the fight against whitefly may be ineffective due to delay and the lack of the necessary integrated approach to this problem. We'll talk about this further.

How to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse?

If you approach this wisely, you can not only protect the future harvest and existing plants from this pest, but also prevent its further occurrence! How to do this? Comprehensively! This requires treatment of greenhouse crops with special insecticides. Which ones exactly? Now you will find out everything!

Spring is the time when the first adult whiteflies appear. It is at this time that everything must be done to prevent them from multiplying. To do this, you need to water the plants in the greenhouse. special means trademark "Aktar" (be sure to read the attached instructions). Please note that drip irrigation is effective. The drug "Aktar" affects new larvae through a conductor in the form of a treated plant for 20 days.
If there are already a lot of whiteflies, use a tank mixture of Talstar and Comfidor. However, that's not all!
But what to do if all stages of development of this insect are already observed? How to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse in this case? To do this, it is necessary to use special mixtures that act on eggs, larvae and adults of the insect. Choose mixtures of “Fitoverma” and “Admiral” and the same “Comfidor” and “Talstar”. Carry out up to four treatments at weekly intervals. You can use “Imidor”, “Biotlin”, “Novaktion”, “Kalash”, “Kemifos” and other chemicals that the whitefly in the greenhouse is so afraid of.
How else to fight this insect? Friends, you can properly freeze the greenhouse in winter time year. Temperatures of 10-15 degrees below zero are destructive for whiteflies.

The whitefly, a miniature, 1.5-3.0 mm insect with translucent fairy-tale wings, is a formidable pest of green plants, especially in confined spaces. No chemicals, even the most toxic ones, can kill whiteflies in the bud. Every year it returns with rare persistence to greenhouses and necessitates a new wave of merciless and sometimes useless struggle against it. Why is this happening? What measures are necessary to clear the greenhouse and surrounding area from whitefly attacks?

Big problems with protecting vegetable and other crops from whiteflies in greenhouses most often arise among beginning gardeners. It seems that if you spray the plants several times with a strong pesticide, then the whitefly is finished! No! In progress natural development The whitefly has developed a unique ability to survive. And there are two such moments in the cycle of its development:

oviposition protected by a special waxy substance, invulnerable to pesticides;
nymph stage, in order to preserve life and “give birth” to the oviparous stage of insects, it stops feeding and is also covered with a wax-like substance, inaccessible to the vast majority of pesticides. During the allotted period of her life, the hatched female manages to lay several dozen protected ovipositions, in which the survival rate of the larvae is up to 90%. Over all stages of development, approximately 80-90% reach the nymph stage - a whole army of pests. During the season, the whitefly manages to form 15 or more generations, the development cycle of which is only 25 days. In autumn, it goes into any crevice where it calmly endures bad weather, especially under thick snow cover.

An analysis of literary data and our own experience has shown that those who fail to get rid of whiteflies and they return again and again to greenhouses violate the basic rule of combating this pest. To destroy the whitefly, it is necessary to carry out a full cycle of preventive work annually, including autumn and spring treatment of the greenhouse and the surrounding area.

Preventative work against whitefly

For the advice to work, it must be followed fully. Separate lines, doses, and treatment periods taken from articles will not have a positive effect. Most often, this effect will be limited to just one season.

Carry out all preventive autumn work in the greenhouse.

Empty the greenhouse completely. If necessary, cover the soil with film and disinfect all internal greenhouse parts. Treatment of hard-to-reach corners, cracks, inter-frame spaces, etc. is very important. Accessible areas can be painted, and hard-to-reach areas can be sprayed with a disinfectant solution. Against whiteflies, this should be a substance that will dissolve the protective shell of the oviposition:

creolin solution (cypermethrin), which acts like Mospilan, Shar Pei, Inta-Vir,
aerosol (“KRA - deo super”),
a solution of technical alcohol (vodka) with water in a 1:1 ratio. The mixture dissolves the protective shell of the clutch and destroys whitefly eggs. A solution of alcohol and water effectively destroys whiteflies at any stage of development and when spraying plants. Dissolve 2 tablespoons of 96% alcohol in 1 liter of water and spray the plants.

Literally all hard-to-reach places should be washed (remember, the size of the whitefly does not exceed 3 mm, and any crack is accessible to it).

2-3 days after the first treatment, repeat spraying all parts of the greenhouse with Aktara, which will have an additional effect and destroy all whitefly offspring, including adults.
Effectively use hormonal chemicals such as Match, Admiral. But their action is aimed only at destroying eggs and larvae. These drugs do not work on adults and require additional treatment against adults. It can be additionally treated with Aktara, Actellik, Shar Pei, Tanrek and other chemicals.

It is better to carry out greenhouse treatments in the evening, in calm weather, taking all protective measures against toxic substances (goggles, respirator, robe, trousers, boots, hat).

Having finished treating the walls and all floors, you need to disinfect the soil.

The whitefly does not tolerate an alkaline environment. Therefore, first, the soil is dug up with the addition of slaked lime, ash, and other powder. Sprinkling the soil with slaked lime is carried out at the rate of 100-200 g/sq. m of area and dig it onto a layer of newly added soil or 10-15 cm. Ash - 2-3 cups per square meter. m. Other substances are added in accordance with the recommendations.

The last step in autumn work against whiteflies is fumigation of the greenhouse. For fumigation, you can use special smoke bombs Peshka-S, sulfur bombs or Hephaestus tobacco bombs. The latter can also be used during the growing season of greenhouse crops. Smoke does not harm plants. If there are no checkers, you can fumigate with sulfur laid out on metal trays at the rate of 50-80 g/cubic. m of greenhouse space. The greenhouse must be well insulated. After 2-3 days, carry out ventilation. When fumigated, the gas penetrates the soil, causing the death of overwintering larvae and adults. Please note! Fumigation does not harm whitefly eggs. Additional tillage is required.

The whitefly and its offspring cannot tolerate low temperatures, so after the measures have been taken, it is effective to freeze the greenhouse by lowering the temperature in it to minus 15...20*C. Some greenhouse growers believe that if the roof of the greenhouse is open and there is a lot of snow there, then this is enough for the death of the whitefly. No! She winters well under the snow. Therefore, freezing should be carried out before snowfall or in early spring, removing its excess. Only on open ground The whitefly does not survive in winter conditions. If there are no low winter temperatures in the region, then all disinfection measures are carried out and the preparation (autumn, spring pre-planting) is completed with fumigation.

Preventive cleaning of the greenhouse area.

It is necessary to remove all rubbish and equipment from the greenhouse and surrounding area. Clean, rinse, put in an outbuilding, the temperature in which is winter period will be equal to street value (natural freezing). Don’t forget to disinfect this extension first.

The whitefly can be destroyed in the greenhouse, but it will definitely appear again - from neighbors, purchased seedlings, from weeds on which eggs and adults overwinter. Therefore, it is very important to keep the area adjacent to the greenhouse clean.

Be sure to destroy all weeds, especially grass, nettles, and wood lice. You can isolate yourself from your neighbors with a Moorish lawn, on which you can grow plants that attract whiteflies. A small layer of dill, celery, and parsley plants will serve as a natural barrier to whiteflies. They are inhabited by parasites, macrolophus bugs, ladybugs, lacewings and other insect predators that destroy the pest. You can plant Martinia fragrant on the lawn and in the greenhouse. The sticky substance on Martinia leaves serves as a natural adhesive, on which the whitefly dies. Some gardeners recommend planting Ageratum Houston (Hauston) in greenhouses. We advise you to be careful with this plant. It contains coumarin, a substance dangerous to humans, especially to allergy sufferers. Alkaloid vapors (and it’s hot in the greenhouse) can cause bleeding if they come into contact with mucous membranes. But this plant can be used outdoors in an improvised lawn or flower garden, where it will successfully exterminate whiteflies. Mint and tansy are attractive to whiteflies. Adults always rush to their scent. By cultivating the lawn in the summer and mowing it in the winter, you can protect vegetable crops from whiteflies that penetrate into the territory of your dacha from the outside.

Dear reader! The article provides only some ways to protect greenhouses from whiteflies. This article is a reminder that it is only possible to completely protect greenhouse crops from pests if a set of works is performed. Spraying 1-2 times is only a temporary solution to the problem.