The best apple tree seedlings. How to plant an apple tree in the spring. How to grow an apple tree from a seedling

Imported apples calibrated in size, which often lie for half a year or more in their inedible spacesuit, glisten at us with a paraffin gloss. We eat them ourselves, and out of habit we buy them for our children, because “Apples are healthy!”...

And at the same time, in many areas it has become fashionable NOT to plant anything other than lawns and conifers... Excuse me, people! But how can it be - your own garden, okay, not a garden, but a plot) and without an apple tree?..

However, since you are reading this, it means you have decided to plant an apple tree. For that, let me shake your hand!

So, let's start boarding (Buckle up!).

The apple tree is our northern storehouse of vitamins and nutrients. And even though times have changed and it has become unfashionable to plant tall trees on seed rootstocks, many new varieties and wonderful low-growing rootstocks have appeared.

Which apple tree to choose - dwarf or tall?..

The agony of choice is hard, oh hard, when the market is oversaturated with seedlings. If you want columns, please. If you don’t want columns, here are “big” apple trees on a seed-bearing rootstock. And what kind of trees to plant depends mostly, according to your wishes.

Mostly- because there are some restrictions. For tall apple trees, for example, it is necessary that the groundwater level on the site be no higher than 2 meters (on light sandy soils, you can plant with a groundwater level of 1-1.5 meters, using some small tricks).

But for dwarf apple trees, on the contrary, it is necessary to take into account that the roots lie shallow and the harvest is large. Therefore, if you have an arid region, then watering (or other agricultural techniques that increase the amount of moisture in the soil) will be necessary.

Benefits of tall apple trees.

• They are large and beautiful; in the summer it is pleasant to sit under such an apple tree in the shade. And between two large trees you can hang a hammock!
• Big harvest, especially if you graft skeletal branches different varieties- there will be a large and varied harvest.
• Big apple tree lives longer and bears fruit.
• Since the roots of a large apple tree penetrate to great depths, it is not necessary to water it.
• Such a tree is, in principle, more resistant to all weather vagaries. Unlike dwarf ones, there is no need to tie it up and be afraid that the branches with the harvest will break from the first strong wind.

Advantages of low-growing apple trees.

• They take up little space! In a small area this is often vital.
• They provide little shade! In old, shady areas, people sometimes forget what “full light” is when the sun illuminates a plant from sunrise to sunset. The difference in plant development is huge. It is therefore important to keep our garden as sunny as possible if we want to grow vegetables, fruits or flowers there. As for the lawn, on the contrary, it often works better in partial shade.
• They begin to bear fruit early. In the third year, the dwarf apple tree will already have a dozen apples, and in the fourth year, you can get a couple of buckets of selected, large fruits!
• Yes, yes, the fruits on dwarf apple trees are larger. Or maybe even tastier, although this is a controversial issue.
• Having made a small planting hill, an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock can be planted in the dampest area, because its roots penetrate only half a meter deep.
• On dwarf apple trees it is much easier to deal with pests and diseases - you can always notice and remove them on time, while we may not even be able to guess what is going on at the top of a large apple tree.

How to choose apple tree varieties for planting?..

This question is very complex and individual. It’s good if you have the opportunity to walk through the market in the fall and taste the apples by variety. But unfortunately, most city residents are deprived of this opportunity - they often sell apples without a name in the markets, or even the same imported ones.

Choosing varieties based on descriptions on the Internet is also a dubious task; everyone’s tastes differ. So all that remains is to follow the scientific method.

I think it would be unnecessary to repeat “do not buy seedlings in dubious places, from roadside vendors, etc.”... Somehow I can hardly imagine a person who would buy a tree “I don’t understand what kind, I don’t understand from whom.” After all, what, what, but apple tree seedlings good quality enough in nurseries and large retail outlets.

It is important that the variety is zoned in your region; it is better to be sure of this issue before purchasing. Otherwise, you can get either a variety that freezes in winter, or one that doesn’t have enough summer to ripen apples.

Well, one of the most important qualities of the variety is resistance to diseases, mainly to scab. Because, as you yourself understand, planting apple trees and then complaining that they may be tasty, but are all covered with scab, which is why they are clumsy and unattractive - why is this necessary? Plant resistant varieties!

Exposed root? Closed root? What's the difference!

Indeed, the main thing is that the seedling is strong and healthy, and only then you can think about whether it is good that it has an open (closed) root system or not.

Saplings in pots - what's the catch?

It would seem that this is nonsense, because an apple tree in a pot (or a plastic cup) is much better - you can buy it in the spring or in the summer and plant it right away. But not everything is rosy with these pots.

Firstly, they often shove an apple tree that has just been dug up in the field into a pot, and there is no earthen lump penetrated by thin roots there. When you first try to pull a seedling out of a pot or glass, all the soil falls off and you can enjoy the view of the root system of your seedling.

It’s good if that’s the case, otherwise it can be worse – inside the plastic bag there is a large-mesh nylon mesh. At first glance, there is no need to remove such a mesh - after all, it does not interfere with the growth of roots. But I strongly recommend removing the mesh, even if all the ground crumbles (as often happens). Because many sellers stuff the roots into the net at random - crumpled, bent up, all in one direction... And if the roots are not straightened, then instead of a fruitful tree you will have sheer torment and tediousness. The tree doesn’t seem to die or grow – it sits still and complains that it has a headache. More precisely the leg.

The second possible bad option for apple tree seedlings in a pot is when the pot is too small and the apple tree has been languishing in it for several months. Sometimes in stores there are such poor things, they have already bloomed in this pot, and the apple is hanging on them... What is the root system like there, in such a volume?.. Moreover, the store workers diligently fill this seedling with water... Because by evening it dries out thoroughly (the evaporation is wow). And so every day - in the evening it dried out and withered, in the morning - they watered it and flooded it.

This does not mean that seedlings cannot be taken in pots. It is very possible, but it is best to do this in early spring, before the buds open, or, in extreme cases, before flowering. Of course, we are talking about trees that arrived on sale for the first year. And it happens that an apple tree in a pot for a whole season in a store or nursery has been sold out, no one bought it, but take it and survive the winter... and then it is sold a second time.

You can also plant trees with apples and flowers at your own risk. But be sure to remove apples and flowers - there is no time for the tree to harvest in this difficult first year. No matter how much you want to taste an apple, it is better to postpone the tasting until next year - let the apple tree grow roots.

Now about seedlings with an open root (literally a couple of pages).

In general, it’s easier with them. Because you can see the root, and not a pig in a bag (pot). If you take the tree on time (in early spring - before buds open, or in autumn, after leaf fall), then there will be no special problems with it. Taking seedlings with bare roots and blossoming buds is a disastrous proposition.

Well, since we can see the roots, let’s look at them carefully. In dwarf apple trees we will see a bunch of numerous and rather thin roots sticking out horizontally in all directions. And tall apple trees should have powerful 1-2-3 roots going almost vertically down. The roots, when picked with a fingernail, should be white. We don't need rotten and dried ones. Tap roots roughly cut off with a shovel right next to the ground are also bad.

Appearance of a seedling - who do we need?

Let's talk about the above-ground part of the seedling. Due to inexperience, it is easy to do stupid things. Firstly, you should buy either an annual twig - a vertical stick ranging from a meter to more than two meters in height, with practically no branches. Or a two-year-old, on which the rudiments of the crown are formed - 2-3 skeletal branches for tall apple trees, or 3-4-5 skeletal branches - for dwarf ones.

That is, if you joyfully grabbed a lush apple tree, which in the second year has 10 branches coming off the trunk, then there is nothing good here, it will be a thickened seedling and you will still have to cut off half of the branches. And the tree grew them, spent energy...

The second thing you look at is the trunk itself. The stem is the part from the bottom of the trunk, near the ground, to the first fork. This part should not be too low, not too high. Figure out for yourself where (at what height) you want to see the first branch. The trunk should be straight, and the top should not bifurcate, be out of alignment, etc. That is, the central conductor - the highest branch, running upward as a continuation of the trunk, should be alone, without competitors sticking out nearby.

In general, all this, of course, is perfectly cut and formed, so if you bought a crooked seedling that you liked, let it live in good health, be happy and make you happy. But if you have the opportunity to choose, think immediately about the future, imagine the tree in a year or two... How these branches will grow, where and why.

How to plant an apple tree?

Here's another question of questions. How can I plant it? It’s clear that it’s in the ground, but there are probably some secrets? Avon, one neighbor’s apples are always large and beautiful, while another’s are crooked and small. Perhaps the first one planted it correctly, but the second one didn’t?

It may be so, but there are no special tricks or difficulties with landing. If, of course, you have never planted a tree before, then it will all be new, and some may find it difficult. And so - there is nothing special.

The first one is a hole. (I guess there is a seedling, standing and waiting?..)

Where does all this advice come from - to dig meter-long holes?.. I can’t say who came up with the idea of ​​digging a hole meter by meter by meter under an apple tree. Maybe this sage was just bored, or maybe he loved to dig.

That is, if you make such a hole, no harm will happen. But you won’t notice the difference in tree growth between a 50x50x50 pit (eight times smaller) and a meter by meter, WITH CORRECT CARE.

What is traditionally recommended to be poured into a meter-long hole? Humus, organic and mineral fertilizers. But everything that is buried to a meter depth (organic matter, humus) ends up in anaerobic conditions, where, decomposing, it remains in a form indigestible for plants.

As for the much-loved superphosphate, you can, of course, pour it into the hole. But show me that apple tree that in an ordinary garden suffers from a lack of phosphorus? I haven’t seen one like this yet, maybe I didn’t look well.

What else is usually recommended to sprinkle? Complex mineral (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). Why do we need all this at a meter depth? Well, maybe the potassium will somehow be absorbed. Nitrogen will go even deeper, with rains and in the first spring with melted snow it will not remain there. We already have enough phosphorus in our soil...

So it turns out that there is not much point in digging a huge hole. There are exceptions - if the land is completely unsuitable in its structure. Well, that is, the land is such that nothing like trees grows there! If there is maple, oak, alder, and ash in the area, then everything is fine with the soil, and there is no need to develop a hernia or develop calluses.

What should you put in a 50x50 hole?

Add ash to the nutritious soil, if available. Half a liter for such a hole is what you need. Unless, of course, you have alkaline soil. And then, when planting, fill it almost to the entire depth with ordinary black soil. If you want, add superphosphate.

But in the top layer (10 cm) you can creatively put any organic or complex mineral fertilizers. We now have a wonderful selection - all sorts of “ideals”, “vermicomposts” and “crystallons” have filled the store shelves. Choose according to your taste, but I can personally recommend “Universal Ideal”, but it is only for spring. If you plant in the fall, and the autumn is warm, then maybe the apple tree will start to grow something else, we don’t need it.

In general, when planting in the spring, you can put any fertilizer on top, it is better that all the main nutritional elements are there. And when planting in the fall, it is better not to plant anything at all until the onset of stable cold weather. Then you can sprinkle it on the snow with complex mineral water, or in the spring - with organic water. When the snow melts, mineral fertilizers will dissolve well and penetrate exactly to the depth where they will be accessible to the roots.

Autumn planting of apple trees.

They say that it is better to plant an apple tree in the fall - after the leaves fall. At this time, the tree is busy actively growing its root system, and the above-ground part is already sleeping in anticipation of spring. Therefore, our task is not to disturb the tree. A large amount of nutrients is no longer required for root growth, that is, just good black soil in a hole will be enough. You should not add additional nitrogen (vermicompost, manure, humus, compost) because the buds may wake up, which in turn can cause the seedling to freeze.

It’s also too late to sprinkle potassium and phosphorus “which helps the tree prepare for winter” - the tree has already prepared itself without you. So basically, just cover the seedling with soil and you can sing it a lullaby (though the roots won't sleep until the ground freezes). The only thing worth doing right away is to tie the seedling to a peg. On this autumn planting completed.

Spring planting.

I prefer to plant trees in the spring. Although this is not always good for apple trees with open roots, spring planting is optimal for those that grew in a pot.

We will immediately see how the tree grows, the speed of shoot growth, the color of the leaves, etc. If something is wrong, you can adjust it with timely feeding.

And if there are no tricks when planting (transferring) a tree from a pot, then a plant with an open root will need some attention in the first month. Immediately after planting, water the seedling. Bucket of water on a tree. So that it turns out to be complete dirt. It is also good to pour water into the hole before you fill the roots with soil, mix the water with the soil at the bottom of the hole, and spread the roots into the resulting mud mash and fill the hole almost to the top with soil. Then pour another bucket of water, and when it goes away, fill the soil up to the level.

Water the apple tree once a week, in a bucket, for the first 5-6 weeks. Well, unless the weather is damp and everything is already flooded, then you don’t have to water it.

Planting depth.

It is important. If you plant a tree too deep, as sometimes happens, it will grow poorly and will hardly bear fruit, and then most likely will die in a few years.

On grafted apple trees, the grafting site is clearly visible - in any case it should be ABOVE the ground.

If planting trees is a new activity for you, then carefully look at where the root part of the seedling begins. Here comes the very top root... And literally a centimeter above it you will see the transition of the above-ground part to the underground. The bark will have a different structure and shade. The seedling cannot be buried deeper than this level! But vice versa, of course, planting a tree so that the roots stick out is also unacceptable.

We mulch and fertilize. Care in the first year.

Regardless of when we planted the tree - whether in spring or autumn, we begin to “look after” it in the first spring.

Basically, care will consist of activities such as fertilizing, mulching the tree trunk circle and crown formation. And of course – searching for and dealing with pests, where would we be without them...

Feeding an apple tree is the way to a harvest!

To achieve a harvest in the second year after planting (for dwarf trees, of course... For tall ones, it’s good if in the fourth year...), you need to give the tree everything it loves! In spring it is primarily nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizers are organic and mineral. Any will suit us.

Feeding options. Mineral fertilizers.

Azofoska (nitroammofoska), a couple of tablespoons for the seedling. The most popular fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts. We scatter it around the tree early in the spring, ideally in the snow.

Carbamide (urea), potassium nitrate and everything else that contains nitrogen in an equal or greater proportion than other elements are also suitable.

If the snow has already thawed, but you still need to feed it, then the most The best way– apply fertilizer under the mulch layer. But we will describe this a little lower, under the heading “Mulching”.

Next we watch the growth of the tree. If the growth is growing, the leaves are green and cheerful, then everything is in order, and there is no need to add additional nitrogen. If the tree is in no hurry to grow, despite good watering, then at the end of May you can feed it with a liquid solution of nitrogen (urea), a tablespoon per bucket of water, for 1-2 trees.

Starting from July nitrogen fertilizers no more should be given. Now comes the turn of potassium and phosphorus. Sprinkle mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium, but without nitrogen, around the tree, about 1 tablespoon. Or, what's even better. A glass or two in the tree trunk circle.

Organic fertilizers.

Apple trees love organic matter, and fresh too (yes, yes, even fresh manure). Fresh, in addition to the specific (hee hee) smell, has another drawback - it can burn the trunk if placed close to the trunk. So you don’t put the manure close together, and that’s all?

. Otherwise, manure is a real benefit in the spring, and you shouldn’t be afraid that the apple tree will begin to fatten or there are other nitrogen imbalances. By mid-July, all the nitrogen will be gone, and everything will be fine, except that the leaves will be large and green to behold. How to apply manure?

Yes, just put it in the tree trunk circle around the apple tree. But, as mentioned above, make a distance of about five centimeters from the trunk.

It is good both as mulch and as a fertilizer in itself... And let’s move on smoothly to mulching, because it is important!

Mulch your apple trees!

Especially in the first years of life, mulching is very useful for apple trees. But since we haven’t finished talking about organic fertilizers, let’s continue here. So, above we talked about mulching with manure. Of course, it is possible (and even better) to mulch with rotted manure, as well as compost, vermicompost, chicken manure... No, no, you don’t need to sprinkle a thick layer of manure or vermicompost. Put adequate

the amount of organic matter you have. And on top - cover it with a layer of mowed, slightly dried grass or straw, 5 centimeters thick. Under the hay-straw, ideal conditions will be created for the life of earthworms and other companions, who will happily eat rotting grass and snack on manure, simultaneously loosening and fertilizing the soil to the required depth. Exactly to the very depth that is needed. It is in this layer of soil that the roots that feed our apple tree should be located. And that’s why we have no reason to dig a hole a meter deep and wide for planting

(I hope you haven’t forgotten that we talked about the pit at the beginning of this long article). By the way. Thank you for reading this far, not everyone is worthy of this, but you were able to do it.

And of course, we must mention such a very important quality of mulch as inhibiting the growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle of a young tree. Weeds significantly inhibit the growth rate of a seedling for the first few years, so you either have to put up with them or fight them. And so we mulched - and please: no weeds for you, and fertility is a plus.

The pest will not pass! It will not fly or crawl (Optimistic).

The subtitle, of course, is too optimistic. Because the pest does not sleep, but wants to eat. Who are we especially interested in in the first years after planting?

• Leaf-eating caterpillars - larvae of hawthorns and various moths.
• Weevils (there are no fruits yet - their larvae).
• Tireless aphids and their companions - ants.

The host of these lawless people is great and terrible, but there is no point in being afraid, we must fight. Moreover, I prefer not napalm and potent poison, but a reasonable approach and manual gathering.

In fact, while the trees are small (and dwarf apple trees are always small), it is enough to thoughtfully and slowly take a walk around the tree once a week, examining its leaves. Have you noticed the hooligans? Put them in the toilet, and then you know what to do with them. Yes, yes, exactly what to wet. Usually this is enough. But if you are overcome by a pest epidemic, you should think about the ecological balance in your area. Perhaps everything is fallow, all the weeds have been weeded out and the main enemies of harmful insects have nowhere to live?

Beautiful, fragrant, tasty and juicy apples, just picked from the bush - can they leave anyone indifferent? Every gardener should know that enjoying apples grown with your own hands begins with the question “how to choose an apple tree seedling?”

Step-by-step strategy for choosing a seedling

Step 1. We select apple tree seedlings, the varieties of which are suitable specifically for your region.

It's no secret that bananas cannot be grown in Norilsk. And not all varieties of apple trees are suitable for planting in all regions of our country. The best option is to choose those that are presented in local nurseries or gardening organizations.

According to the ripening period, apple trees are divided into three types:

1. Summer ones bear fruit in August and are stored for a little more than a week. Such apple trees are grown in many regions. The most popular varieties: White filling, Medunitsa, Grushovka.
2. Autumn ones bear fruit in September, and their shelf life can reach a whole month. Popular varieties: Melba, Korean, Borovinka, Cinnamon striped.
3. Winter apple trees ripen at the very end of September. Their peculiarity lies in long-term storage, up to six months. Winter apple tree seedlings take root best where summers are very warm and autumns are not very cold. Popular varieties: Antonovka, Aport, Welsey, Moskovskoe winter, Bogatyr.

Step 2. Where to buy apple tree seedlings?

As noted just above, it is best to purchase seedlings from a nursery. You can also purchase apple trees from specialized companies and gardening organizations, whose addresses are available on the Internet. You should pay attention to the reputation of these companies. You should not buy seedlings in markets, “by the road”, or in places of point sales.

Step 3. We have come to the most important stage – the practical stage of selection. And if the answer to the question of where to buy apple tree seedlings is quite simple, then at the third stage you will need all your attentiveness, scrupulousness and pickiness.

1. Apple tree seedlings are divided into three types depending on the rootstock (stem before binding and root system):

• Vigorous (deep roots, tree height up to 8 m). Such apple trees are suitable for areas where the groundwater level is below 3 m.
• Semi-dwarf (trees up to 5 m). Suitable for the site if groundwater are located at a distance of 2.5 m.
• Dwarf (not higher than 2.5 m). The best option for areas where the groundwater level is above 1.5 m.

Contact of tree roots with groundwater can weaken the apple tree, fruiting will deteriorate, and diseases will appear.

2. The optimal age of an apple tree seedling is 1-2 years. The younger the seedling, the better it will take root. Determining age is quite simple. The one-year-old seedling has no developed branches. A two-year-old seedling should have 2-3 additional branches sticking out in different directions at an angle of 45-90 degrees.

3. When examining a seedling, you should pay attention to the roots and stem. They should not have damage or growths. Under the bark, the stem of the seedling should be bright green. You can check this by picking off the bark with your fingernail.

The roots should be moist, but not rotten (pull the root slightly, holding the stem; if it comes off easily, it means the graft has rotted). Also, the roots should be elastic, but not brittle.

4. You should not buy seedlings that already have leaves.

In conclusion, one more piece of advice: If you have friends among experienced gardeners, do not be lazy to find out a couple of secrets from them on how to choose an apple tree seedling. The more you learn, the more responsible you approach the selection process, the sweeter and more abundant the harvest of your apple trees will be!

To plant an apple tree, you need to purchase a high-quality seedling. The harvest depends on the correct choice of seedling. What should you pay attention to? What to ask the seller?

Apple trees grow better and bear fruit more abundantly if there are several of them on the site. But in a small garden I would like to plant other trees! Perhaps your close neighbors have apple trees, then the problem is solved.

On a fairly large area, it is better to plant several apple trees of different varieties, so that there are both early and late apples.

When choosing seedlings, you need to consider several important points:

Seedling size and rootstock

The size and dimensions of the apple tree must comply with the standards and be sold with woody branches. Previously, almost all varieties of apple trees were tall; they began to bear fruit 6-7 years after planting. Now there are both medium-sized and dwarf ones. The size of the tree depends largely on the rootstock. You should ask the seller about this. If he finds it difficult to answer such a question, then he has nothing to do with seedlings, and it is unknown what can be bought from him.

All varietal apple trees are grafted onto a specific plant - the rootstock. The root system of the apple tree depends on it. There are a large number of well-known apple tree rootstocks in the world.

• Vigorous rootstock- This is basically a seedling grown from the seed of a wild apple tree or an apple tree of the Antonovka variety. Apple trees on this rootstock grow five to seven meters high. They begin bearing fruit in the sixth year. The lifespan of a tree is up to eighty years. They have deep roots, so such apple trees are not suitable for areas where groundwater is high. Currently, tall rootstock is used less due to the strong growth and late entry of trees into fruiting.
• Medium-sized and semi-dwarf The rootstock is obtained vegetatively; it gives a tree height of 3.5 – 4 meters. Apple trees on this rootstock live for 30-35 years and begin to bear fruit in the fourth year.
• Dwarf rootstock Mainly used in intensive gardening. The height of the tree is 2-2.5 meters, fruiting lasts for 2-3 years. With anti-aging pruning, trees live up to 30 years. This best option for areas where the groundwater level is above 1.5 m.

Visual inspection of the seedling

The height of annual apple trees should correspond to an approximate size of 120 to 130 centimeters. If the seedling is lower standard size, this indicates improper care. For example, about insufficient feeding, watering, seedling diseases, and the presence of pests. If the seedling is too tall and the shoot is immature, this is an example of insufficient use of fertilizers or watering.

When cut, the roots should be light and juicy. The trunk of the seedling should not be damaged, and the shoots themselves should be free of traces of pests and disease. When selling a tree, there must be a tag with information about the species and variety.

The roots of a good seedling have branches and many small roots. If one taproot or roots are broken, it should not be taken.

Every gardener dreams of growing a beautiful orchard that produces an excellent harvest and boasting tasty and large apples. To do this, you need to know the nuances of choosing and preparing seedlings, as well as properly preparing the place before planting an apple tree in the spring.

How to select and prepare apple tree seedlings

If you have decided on the variety of apple tree you are interested in, it’s time to go buy planting material. You should know what to look for when choosing.

Where to buy and how to choose seedlings

To do this, it is better to use the services of specialized stores or nurseries, since apple seedlings purchased at spontaneous markets may have been stored incorrectly. There is also a possibility of purchasing the wrong variety.

When choosing a tree, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

• a two or three year old seedling should have several skeletal branches and a branched root system;
• good condition of the bark without damage;
• The height of the seedling should be 1.5 m.

Preparing a seedling for planting

The one-year-old seedling does not yet have branches, so it must be prepared for planting and the future crown must be correctly formed:

• Cut off the top with a sharp knife or pruning shears, removing a few buds (this will give the tree the opportunity to develop side branches);
• Examine the buds: those that point upward will continue to grow at an acute angle, competing with the main trunk, so they should be removed. Leave 5-6 good buds, looking sideways and spaced evenly along the length of the seedling; skeletal branches will form from them.

Also ask the seller how tall the mature tree will be. The choice of planting location on your site depends on this, based on the shadow cast on other plantings.

Preparing the soil and planting an apple tree in spring

Buying seedlings is not enough to get good harvest. It is necessary to choose the right time, prepare the soil and follow the planting technology.

When to plant apple trees in spring

Determining the time is not difficult. If the air temperature is stably above zero, you can start working.

• In the southern regions, planting begins in mid-April.
• In central Russia, the most suitable time is the end of April.
• In the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to plant apple trees no earlier than mid-May.

Apple tree planting scheme in spring

Before planting apple trees, you need to prepare the hole in advance. It is best to do this in the fall, but it can also be done in the spring, 7-10 days before planting.

The following parameters for the planting hole must be observed:

• for tall varieties of apple trees (from 200 cm) - diameter 100-110 cm, and 70 cm deep.
• for medium (from 120 to 200 cm) - 100 and 60;
• for short people (no more than 120 cm) – 90 and 50, respectively.

The top layer of soil is more fertile than the bottom, so they must be separated when digging (spread in different directions from the hole).

If the soil is clayey, before planting the apple tree, it must be diluted with sand (in a ratio of 2:1), and if it is sandy, then add humus and peat (2:1:1). The bottom requires special attention: loosen it with a shovel and cover it with broken bricks or tiles; walnut shells are ideal. Such a layer will be an excellent drainage for excess moisture and a barrier against leaching of useful substances from the soil.

How to plant an apple tree in spring

The procedure for planting seedlings in spring differs from the autumn procedure in the composition of fertilizers. The hole must first be prepared and the seedlings properly pruned.

• The finished pit is filled with the top fertile layer of soil to a depth of 15-20 cm;
• Prepare a mixture of fertilizers with soil: 1 cup of superphosphate and 3 tbsp. potassium sulfate is mixed with the remaining soil from the top layer and poured into the hole;
• The remaining part is filled with fertile soil to the top with a small hill;
• A wooden peg is placed in the center of the mound, and a seedling is placed next to it, its roots spread evenly in a circle;
• Next, the seedling is sprinkled with earth and compacted. It is necessary that the base of the tree (the junction of the trunk and the root system) is several cm above the ground level, this will prevent the seedling from subsiding.

The apple tree is planted on the north side of the peg, which allows the bark to be slightly protected from sunburn.

How to plant an apple tree in spring video

Apple tree care after planting

A young tree needs good support. To do this, the seedling must be tied to a peg, which is driven into the ground to a depth of 15-20 centimeters. It should be tied with fabric or soft rope, but in no case should this be done with wire or synthetic materials.

On the day of planting, it is necessary to carry out good watering: one hole will need 30-40 liters of water. The main thing is that the water stops flowing freely into the soil and begins to stagnate a little. The procedure is repeated a week later, adding nitrogen-containing mixtures (35-45 grams of ammonium nitrate or nitroammophosphate).

How to plant a garden of fruit trees

If you plan to grow more than just apple trees in your garden, you should take care of the correct arrangement of trees, since not all crops get along equally well in one area.

Planting a garden: choosing neighbors and location

Apple, pear and mountain ash have positive allelopathy (compatibility). And crops such as apricot or cherry are better planted in another part of the garden. The heaviest tree is considered Walnut, which is why it is most often placed on the edge of the site under the fence.

• The cherry tree doesn't like the neighborhood.
• Apricot, cherry plum or plum planted nearby will most likely die.
• The apple tree gets along well with the plum, which cannot be said about the peach and pear.

The choice of place for planting apple trees depends on the height of the future tree. Place seedlings of tall varieties on the north side summer cottage, and short ones - in the south. This planting will ensure uniform illumination of all trees, and they will not shade each other. The distance between planting holes must be at least 4 m so that the trees do not intertwine their crowns and roots.

What can be planted under an apple tree in the garden

Most best option using a near-trunk circle is turfing. Thus, the soil will receive more oxygen and moisture. Nice appearance the lawn will create an atmosphere of relaxation.

But if you have a small area and a lot of trees, it is better not to waste precious meters and use them wisely. The apple tree has a not too thick crown, so shade-tolerant plants under it will receive a sufficient amount of light.

If you want to create a fragrant flowerbed in a circle around the trunk, when asked what to plant under an apple tree, the answer is simple - flowers. The best way to sow the soil is:

• daisies and marigolds;
• crocuses and primrose;
• bells and balsam;
• pansies.

When there is very little free space, under the apple tree you can place a whole garden of parsley, dill, garlic and lettuce. On the south side of the tree, cucumbers, eggplants and zucchini will take root well. Since the root system of the apple tree is located close to the surface of the earth, it is recommended to organize a small raised bed around the trunk so that the plants do not interfere with each other.

Bottom line

Planting apple trees in the spring involves properly preparing the hole and placing the seedling in it. By completing these simple tasks, you will grow a healthy and productive tree without any problems. Plant a beautiful garden on your site, sow the area under the trees with flowers or herbs so that it is not empty, and enjoy the aroma of flowers in spring and ripe fruits in autumn.

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To purchase healthy and strong apple tree seedlings, you need to know some of the signs by which they are selected. In addition, it is not recommended to buy planting material on the side of the roads. It is better to make purchases in nurseries or specialized stores.

When buying an apple tree seedling, first of all, you need to be able to distinguish an annual plant from a biennial one. This is not difficult to do. On a two-year-old seedling, the skeletal central trunk is clearly visible, which is a plant of the first year of life. Second-order shoots extend from the central trunk, which grew in the second year of the plant’s life. On the central trunk of an annual seedling you can see branches with leaves just beginning to form. In addition, the tops of annual seedlings are usually pinched off. The result of such pinching can always be seen. When planted, a biennial plant takes root much better than an annual one. In addition, the harvest from such a seedling can be obtained earlier.

Apple tree seedlings are sold with an open root system or with a closed one. Capped-root plants are grown directly in containers and do better when planted. For seedlings with an open root system, the roots may be damaged during transportation. In addition, they can dry out, as a result of which the survival rate of such plants is much worse.

Rules for planting seedlings

The planting hole is prepared in advance so that the soil has time to settle well. If a seedling is planted immediately after digging a hole, voids may form in the ground, and the roots of the plant will not adhere well to the soil. As a result, the apple tree will become sick. Particular attention should be paid to the grafting site of the seedling. It cannot be buried in the soil, otherwise the harvest may not wait for a long time. When planting an annual seedling whose top has not been pinched, you can do this yourself. You need to count 7 leaves, starting from the top, and make an oblique cut with pruning shears. If you cut a shoot at a right angle, water will accumulate on the cut surface and the plant may rot.

In order for an apple tree to grow and develop well, it requires fertile, loose soil in which the roots can easily breathe and receive all the nutrients. You need to choose a place for the seedling where there is no stagnation of water, otherwise the fibrous root system of the apple tree will rot. Therefore, it is important to know the groundwater level in the area. They should not be higher than 1 meter from the soil surface.

After planting, it is necessary to water the seedling well and mulch the root zone of the plant. This will keep the soil loose and moist, preventing weeds from germinating.

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How to choose a good apple tree seedling. Landing rules

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Our grandmother Lucy has a young, beautiful, generous apple orchard. Grandma Tanya, on the contrary, has few apple trees, they are old, crooked, and practically do not bear fruit. It’s boring without apples during the summer season - you can’t make enough preparations, and the grandchildren want to feast on it... So the grandmother decided to rejuvenate the garden this year - she bought an apple tree seedling, variety “...”. For recommendations on how to properly plant an apple tree seedling in the spring, I turned to the “Fruit Growing” manual. My grandfather used this book to learn gardening. It was with his hands that the apple trees were planted, which have now grown old and outlived their usefulness. We decided that many would find the information provided in the manual useful. In addition, it is interesting to look at the results of the experiment: will our apple tree take root? There are many nuances of planting apple trees as seedlings, so it would be better to reflect them in a question-answer form.

how to choose an apple tree seedling for planting?

Fruit tree seedlings are usually sold in the spring. Anything can happen: summer residents will buy a seedling, plant it, and in the end either a wild plant or a garden miracle of an unknown breed will grow. Therefore, it is best to buy seedlings in trusted stores, from trusted nurseries. Before planting (or better yet, purchasing), the seedlings are inspected. The condition of the seedlings is judged by the root system: if the roots are severely damaged, the seedlings are rejected. Such a seedling will not take root.

Do I need to prune an apple tree seedling when planting?

The roots of seedlings with minor damage are cut with pruning shears to a healthy place. The cuts should be smooth and as small as possible. It is not recommended to update sections of healthy roots (made during digging), especially if callus has formed on them. You should also not shorten healthy roots unless they are too long or intertwined. Important: plants with a strong, healthy, branched root system take root better.

During transportation and pre-planting storage, the roots must be protected from drying out. To do this, they are buried in soil and covered with damp moss or burlap. Before planting seedlings in the spring in dry weather, they are placed with their roots in water for several hours.

WHEN IS IT BETTER TO PLANT APPLE TREES: SPRING OR AUTUMN?

The timing of planting seedlings depends on climatic conditions. Fruit trees are planted in open ground, as a rule, in early spring before buds open or in autumn after growth has finished.

Spring planting relevant, first of all, for the North. In winter there are severe frosts, and the roots of seedlings planted in the spring often freeze. Plants die. In spring, planting begins early, trying to do it within 7-8 days.

In Siberia and the Urals, in conditions where the snow cover is insufficient and there is no risk of spring dry winds, it is better to plant fruit tree seedlings in the spring. Where the snow cover is thick and dry winds are frequent in spring, you should prefer autumn planting.

In the central regions, in Middle lane Russian winters are less severe, with heavy snow cover. In such conditions, fruit tree seedlings can be planted in the fall, but no later than 20-25 days before the onset of stable frosts. Otherwise, the young trees will freeze and die. However, it is recommended to plant cherries, plums, apricots, and pears only in spring. Apple trees are not included in this list.

In regions of Russia with relatively warm autumns and mild winters, a more comfortable time for planting is autumn. Trees planted in the fall have time to sprout new roots, and in early spring they quickly begin to grow. However, in the southern regions, planting in spring is not so favorable, because spring comes quickly there, and plants often die due to lack of moisture.

The autumn planting period for apple trees and other fruit trees in the central regions is from September 25 to October 20. In the southern regions, autumn planting is favorable from half of October to half of November.

How to plant an apple tree seedling correctly (planting technique)

Correct fit seedlings plays a huge role - the survival rate and further development of the young tree depends on it. The “Fruit Growing” manual recommends planting an apple tree seedling in the spring according to the following rules:

• Prepare a smooth peg 5-6 cm thick and approximately 1 m 20 cm – 1 m 30 cm high in advance.
• The stake is driven into the bottom of the prepared planting hole to a depth of 15–20 cm. The height of the stake should be at the level of the first main skeletal branch of the crown (slightly lower).

• The hole is half filled with loose fertile soil (it is taken from the top layer of soil when digging the hole). In this case, the earth is poured so that a cone-shaped mound is formed around the peg:

• How deep should the hole be? - the question that worries us in the first place. The depth should be optimal. In the manual they write about it this way: you need to plant a tree in a hole so that the root collar is 5-7 cm above the soil level. Over time, the soil will settle, and then the root collar will be at ground level.
• During planting, fertilizers are applied to each seedling: 15-20 kg of humus or compost, 200 g of superphosphate and 60-80 g of potassium salt. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the soil. It is not recommended to introduce fresh, unrotted manure into the planting hole.
• Immediately before planting, the roots are dipped in soil mash to protect them from drying out.
• A tree is placed on a mound of earth so that the peg is on the south side and the trunk is on the north. The peg will protect the bark from sunburn.
• The roots are evenly spread out to the sides along the mound so that they do not cross or touch each other. It is convenient to plant an apple tree with two people: one holds the trunk and straightens the roots, the other fills the hole with earth.
• When filling the hole, you need to make sure that the soil tightly covers the roots and there are no voids between them. To do this, during backfilling, the tree is gently shaken several times, and at the end the soil is firmly trampled down, starting from the edge of the hole. Trampling is done carefully so as not to damage the roots, placing the foot toe to the seedling. Such trampling is necessary in order to fruit tree it took root better. In uncompacted soil, seedlings take root poorly.

The first watering is carried out immediately after planting the seedling, regardless of soil moisture. For convenient and economical watering, a ring-shaped hole is made around the hole. The diameter of the hole is slightly wider than the diameter of the hole. You will need 2-3 buckets for each seedling. In dry weather in spring or summer, watering is repeated 2-3 more times. After watering, in order to retain moisture, the surface around the trunk is sprinkled with dry soil, humus, compost or peat - mulched. Layer – 8-10 cm.

The next stage after planting, watering and mulching is binding. Planted trees are tied to a stake to prevent them from being swayed by the wind. A garter is made from sponge, twigs, rope, twisting them in the form of a figure eight between a stake and a tree trunk. The anchor point is at the top of the trunk, under the lower branch of the crown.

If planted in the fall, the trunks and thick branches are tightly tied with reeds or spruce branches to protect them from rodents.

Our apple tree, planted as a seedling this spring:

Having studied in detail the questions of when and how to plant an apple tree correctly, Baba Tanya planted just such a seedling. We'll see what comes of this.

But this beauty of the apple tree grows at Baba Lucy’s:

Harvest 2015:

There is something to strive for!

Tags: spring, planting, apples, apple trees

The apple tree is one of the most common fruit crops in our country. The height of the tree varies depending on the varietal characteristics and can reach from 1.5 to 10 meters.

In spring, first vegetative buds appear on apple trees, and then flower buds. It is worth knowing that several times more flowers will be produced than are necessary for the harvest. Only 15% of the flowers will become apples. Flower buds for the next season's harvest are laid in the summer months. Initially, they cover old branches, and then younger ones.

How to choose an apple tree for planting

Apple tree seedlings must be selected based on the climatic characteristics of the region where planting is planned. For example, fruit trees grown in the south are not suitable for the northern region. It is best to choose plants that are available at your local nursery or gardening organization.

All varieties can be divided into several types:

• Summer. Fruiting begins in August, and the shelf life of the fruit is a little more than 7 days. They are the ones that gardeners prefer to grow in many areas of our country. The most popular are Belyi Nalivka, Medunitsa, and Grushovka.
• Autumn. The harvest is harvested in September, and the fruits are stored for almost a whole month. The most famous include Melba, Korean, Borovinka, Cinnamon striped.
• Winter. The fruits will be ready for harvest in late September. It's interesting that apples have long term storage, almost 6 months. Planting such trees is recommended in regions with warm summer and not in the cold autumn. Popular varieties include: Antonovka, Moscow winter, Bogatyrya, Welsey, Aport.

Apple tree seedlings

It is necessary to know at what level the groundwater lies in the place where the crop is planned to be grown. If the water is deeper than 3 meters, you can choose any option. Vigorous, dwarf, and semi-dwarf varieties will grow well. If groundwater lies above 2.5 meters, it is worth excluding the seed (vigorous) rootstock. Trees of these varieties have a height of about 8 meters and rooting will occur directly in water, which leads to the following problems:

• reduction in yield;
• loss of winter hardiness, trees may gradually freeze completely;
• apple trees often get sick;
• wilting of the crown.

In such a place, it is best to plant trees that do not have a highly branched root system that will not go deep into the ground.

Note to the gardener. The ideal apple tree seedlings for such places are semi-dwarf varieties. However, it is worth considering that such plants are not suitable for every climate zone. Only a few of them can grow in the gardens of the Moscow region, for example, Melba, Candy, Chudnaya.

If groundwater lies very close to the surface (1.5 meters), you need to select dwarf or columnar varieties. The latter have a superficial root system, this is their main advantage and disadvantage. Due to their shallow roots, trees are highly susceptible to low temperatures and freezing of the ground. The yield is not too high, but dense planting is possible according to the 1x1m pattern.

strong apple tree

The correct choice of seedlings is the first step to obtaining healthy and strong trees, and therefore you need to pay close attention to the condition of the planting material.

The roots are the most important part of the seedling. By visually inspecting the root system, you can learn a lot about it. Lethargy and dryness indicate poor storage, and this will certainly affect how the apple tree will take root in a new place. The roots must be in soil or a moist environment. If they are bare, you should not make a purchase.

An ideal seedling meets the following requirements:

• regionalization, the tree grows in the same region where the purchase is made and has the necessary properties (frost resistance, good immunity, immunity to certain types of diseases);
• there should be no damage on the trunk, not even a small wound;
• high-quality vaccination. If branches are found located at right angles to the main stem, we can conclude that the crop is wild, and therefore the purchase should be postponed. An apple from such a tree will be small in size, the yield will be small, and the taste will not meet expectations. A graft that has not taken root has a shoot growing directly from the rootstock;
• if you cut the spine and it will be white, this indicates his liveliness. Frozen and dried roots have a brown tint. Particular attention is paid to the branching of the root system and its size; they should not be less than 30 cm.

Good to know. You should not purchase plants with dried roots, even if the product is at a discount. This indicates that the seller wants to get rid of low-quality plants.

It is necessary to inspect the roots to ensure that there are no irregularities, swellings, or growths, which may indicate root cancer. The stems should also be free of growths, including under the bark; the color of a healthy stem should be bright green.

How to determine the age of an apple tree:

• annual trees lack well-developed branches;
• two-year-olds have several additional branches located at different angles.

To check how well the seedling is grafted, you need to take the roots with one hand and carefully pull the stem with the other. If there is noticeable detachment from the trunk, this indicates the presence of rot.

The root system should be moistened, but not rotten; by the way, brittle roots are a bad sign.

How to preserve seedlings before planting

All seedlings with roots and packaging in soil are stored in two ways.

The first is the most common, but is not designed for long-term preservation (trees can last 14 - 21 days):

• it is necessary to unpack the purchase and pierce the film packaging that envelops the roots in several places;
• if the soil is dry, it needs to be moistened;
• The seedlings are placed in a cool place without unwrapping the packaging.

For storage you can use a balcony, veranda, garage, cellar, the main thing is that air flows to the root system and the soil layer is slightly moist.

Important. Trees should not be kept warm; excessive manipulation with them can cause significant harm to the plants.

The second option is used by professional gardeners, and this method allows you to organize storage for a longer period:

• unpacking the seedling, examining the roots and pruning them;
• A seedling is placed in a large container with soil, and the root system is dug in;
• watering to moisten the soil;
• rearranging the seedling cool place where the plant will not be exposed to sunlight.

If there is no soil or container, you can wrap the roots in a damp rag, tie a plastic bag on top and place the plant in a cool place.

For seedlings sold in containers, replanting is not required. It is enough to water and leave in the room so that the plant can wake up. It is important to keep the soil moist and not to overwater the seedlings. By following these recommendations, you can grow a healthy apple tree without any problems.