How to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house: choice of insulation and thermal insulation technology. We are looking for the best way to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. The best way to insulate a wooden ceiling.

Although a wooden house is warm in itself, the upper enclosing structure in it is the weak link, unless the attic is heated, but this happens extremely rarely. Therefore, it is important to timely insulate the ceiling in a private home, which will help reduce heat costs and save on heating your home.

There are several options for thermal insulation of the ceiling. To decide on the optimal insulation and the method of installing it, you need to evaluate the pros and cons of each method, don’t you agree? We suggest that you look into this issue in order.

In the article, we examined in detail the technologies for carrying out thermal insulation work using different types of insulation, and outlined the characteristics and operational features of the materials. In addition, they told us when it is better to use external and when internal ceiling insulation, and provided advice on choosing a thermal insulation layer.

Based on the location of insulation installation, all existing thermal insulation technologies are divided into two categories: internal and external.

Each of them has its pros and cons. The first method is more economical, but you will have to sacrifice the useful volume of rooms. And in the case of external insulation, they usually reinforce the floor, and then arrange flooring attic.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling, both in a wooden and in any other house, will not only retain heat, but also enhance sound insulation. Therefore, the sound of raindrops and howling wind will not annoy the residents of the house. The insulation will not allow heated air to penetrate inside when it is hot outside

Insulation on the outside is a risk of damage from any mechanical influences, so additional protection is necessary. In this case, you cannot do without vapor and waterproofing, which will also entail an increase in the cost of the insulating layer.

The best materials for external insulation

The industry produces a wide range of insulation materials. Each of them has its own properties, positive and not quite qualities. First of all, environmental friendliness is important - they should not harm health.

In addition to using traditional insulation technology, you can use a more progressive and practical solution -. Such a system can completely replace standard heating or become an effective addition to it.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Interesting ideas for ceiling insulation:

Nuances of insulating a timber ceiling:

If in wooden house There is no residential or insulated attic; insulation of the ceiling is indispensable. The ideal case is to insulate the floor during the construction process.

Installing an insulating layer in an already built house is somewhat more difficult, but still possible. It is important to follow the technology and take into account the features of the selected heat insulator.











In accordance with the laws of physics, air rises when heated, so insulating the ceiling in a house with cold roof– this is not a way to get rid of extra money, but a decision dictated by expediency. If you live in a private house, then you have directly encountered the problem of a cold ceiling in the room above which the attic is located. It is usually not heated, and its own thermal insulation is minimal to ensure normal temperatures during the cold season. As a result, there is a source of constant heat leakage above the living room.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside or outside. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, the use of which is dictated by rationality, circumstances, technical nuances and other significant characteristics.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside using rolled material Source buildfun.ru

Why insulate ceilings in private houses

Installing insulation material that is optimal for a particular structure will provide a thermal barrier between the room and the attic. It will prevent the heated air from cooling, escaping through microcracks in concrete or natural pores in a wooden ceiling, raise the overall temperature in the room, protect floors and walls from freezing and save a considerable amount that is regularly spent on heating.

Features of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

When working with wooden buildings, primary attention should be paid to the final weight of the insulating layer. Excessively high mass increases the likelihood of collapse or cracks in the ceiling covering.

Some are trying to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof by reducing the insulation layer, but work standards require a certain value for each region in accordance with temperature and humidity indicators. As the thickness decreases, the thermal insulation properties decrease, and the meaning of laying insulation disappears.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside Source evejoy.top

List of materials used for insulation

For thermal insulation, installers use materials that are divided into four large groups:

    bulk– expanded clay, dry sawdust, ecowool;

    roll– mineral wool and its varieties from other materials;

    slab– sheets of compacted mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (foam), cork plates;

    sprayed/self-leveling- penoizol.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, you need to know which one has the best insulating properties. To do this, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that influence the final result:

    external or internal installation;

    weather conditions and average annual temperature in a particular area, affecting the thickness of the layer;

    the need and list of additional work;

    time spent and project budget.

The combination of these features will indicate the rationality of using one or another type of thermal insulation.

The photo shows a bulk version of the ceiling insulation from the outside - thermal insulation with expanded clay Source hi.decorexpro.com

External insulation

In most cases, insulating the outside ceiling of a home is a more convenient way to prevent heat loss. It allows you to expand the list of used insulating materials, reduce time spent on work and reduce, in comparison with internal installation, the cost of thermal insulation when insulating a house with finishing finishing.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
There are several options for insulating the ceiling from the outside:

The cheapest among all bulk insulator options. Thanks to the cheap cost of the material and minimal additional costs, the total cost of the work is the lowest among those described.

There are certain requirements for sawdust.

    A minimum moisture content is required, otherwise mold will begin to form over time. To do this, the material is kept in a dry room for about a year before use.

    Sawdust is mixed with fire retardants to reduce flammability.

    Combining with antiseptic substances, fungicides and slaked lime will prevent the appearance of fungus and protect against rodents.

Insulating the ceiling in a house with sawdust is done in two ways. In the first, they are mixed with dry cement, followed by the addition of a small amount of water. Cement acts as a connecting material. The second method involves dry filling of sawdust without adding a connector, but due to the natural shrinkage of the material and the need for regular addition, it is not popular.

Ceiling insulated with sawdust Source ohiogas.info

Expanded clay as insulation

The second most frequently used bulk material for insulation. Among its advantages:

    acceptable price;

    availability;

    thermal insulation properties are above average.

However, the application has a number of limitations:

    The own weight of expanded clay does not allow its use on thin wooden ceilings; concrete floors are desirable.

    the material has low moisture resistance, so a vapor barrier must be laid as the first layer.

    to ensure high-quality heat retention, you will need a layer more than 20 cm thick (in cold regions of the country it is increased to 50 cm).

When using expanded clay, experts use a mixture of large and small fractions to ensure a high percentage of filling the empty space. A layer of material is poured on top cement mortar 5–10 cm thick, which provides protection from moisture and serves as a floor covering.

External ceiling insulation with expanded clay Source obustroeno.com

Ecowool

Modern insulation for the ceiling of a house, made from recycled cellulose, with the addition of fire retardants to provide fire resistance and boric acid, which serves as protection against fungus and harmful microorganisms. The main advantages of the material:

    high-quality coverage of the entire floor space; thanks to the low weight of the individual parts, the cotton wool is easily blown into all the cracks;

    the composition does not contain compounds harmful to humans;

    low material consumption to ensure reliable thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include:

    low resistance to moisture, you will have to spend money on laying a vapor barrier;

    manual installation without special equipment is impossible or will be of poor quality;

    ecowool is subject to shrinkage, so you will need to lay it with a margin of about 15%;

    if crushed, it loses its thermal insulation qualities, so it is necessary to cover the ecowool with a layer of boards to ensure the ability to move around the attic.

Advice! Experts do not recommend using the material close to chimneys and other sources of high temperature, despite the addition of fire retardants to the composition. If this is not possible, then you will need to make additional fencing made of a fire-resistant coating that reflects heat.

Source ko.decorexpro.com

Mineral wool as insulation

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool has several advantages:

    low cost of material;

    high laying speed;

    good thermal insulation properties.

There were also some downsides:

    shrinkage of cotton wool is 15–20%, so experts advise taking an appropriate supply.

    the material is not moisture resistant and quickly absorbs water, which immediately increases its thermal conductivity. It will be necessary to lay an additional layer of waterproofing.

    mineral wool cannot be crushed; the impermeability of the thermal barrier largely depends on the air contained between the fibers, so you will have to spend money on laying the outer covering so that you can move freely around the attic.

To insulate with mineral wool, workers must install wooden logs. They will allow you to delimit the space into sectors and will become the support of the future floor covering.

The photo shows the process of thermal insulation of a ceiling with mineral wool Source iobogrev.ru

Insulation with penoizol

Depending on the type of installation, penoizol is sprayed or poured. But to use this material, you will need to contact a specialized company, since the work uses specific equipment, plus, you need protective suits for workers and professional skills.

The advantages include:

    high degree of penetration into all cracks and microcracks;

    non-flammability;

    environmental safety for humans;

    not of interest to rodents;

    the substance contains a large number of air bubbles, which provide high-quality insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost and fragility of the material, which does not independently restore its shape in the event of mechanical damage.

Video description

Which insulation divides heat better, watch the video:

Advice! When working with penoizol, it is recommended to wait until it hardens completely; it has a slight shrinkage that will have to be compensated to prevent the formation of voids.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation Source lestorg32.ru

Internal insulation

Residential attic, house for several owners, presence in the attic engineering communications and other situations that make external insulation impossible, require thermal insulation from the inside of the room. Bulk substances are not used for obvious reasons.

Video description

Insulating the ceiling from the inside, watch the video:

Sheet, roll or sprayed materials are used. When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to polystyrene foam boards or compressed mineral wool. They have the best ratio in the price/quality/speed category. Don’t forget about penoizol, which will be an excellent option if your budget increases.

The process of insulating the ceiling from the inside with foam plastic Source nl.decorexpro.com

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene foam boards Source barmanlive.ru

What to choose - external or internal insulation

The choice between these types of work is based on a combination of factors:

    in the absence of finishing, they are equal in degree of thermal insulation;

    if the renovation of the room is completed, you will have to remove the ceiling covering, which will increase the cost and time of work;

    laying from the inside reduces shrinkage of the material, but increases the thickness of the ceiling, reducing the total volume of the room;

    with internal insulation, the ceiling ceiling is not protected from low temperatures;

    external insulation allows the use of a wider range of heat insulators.

Before insulating the ceiling in a private house, you need to carefully calculate all the pros and cons, only after that can you make a clear decision on what is best to use in your case.

Conclusion

When choosing a specific material for ceiling insulation, it is always better to seek professional help. Every business has its pitfalls and stumble upon them, relying on own strength, this is a waste of time and money. It’s better to make repairs once and get a guaranteed high-quality result - this will save you from unnecessary expenses and provide your home with heat for many years to come.


Houses built from wood are initially warm. Wood has low thermal conductivity, so an insulated wooden house retains heat even in the most severe frosts. Doors, windows, walls, floors, roofing and ceilings need insulation. Especially ceilings, because warm air, according to the laws of physics, rises and goes out through an uninsulated roof. It is estimated that up to 45% of heat is lost in this way, so insulating the ceiling in a wooden house is a top priority.

Thermal insulation of ceilings

Overlap wooden house consists of logs, beams or beams installed at the same distance. Boards are nailed to them on both sides, between which a space is formed, filled with heat-insulating materials.

Popular insulation for ceilings

To protect a private home from the cold, they are used different types materials:

  • expanded clay;
  • mineral wool;
  • ecowool;
  • sawdust;
  • Styrofoam.

Each of them has a huge number of advantages, but there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when planning work. Each material has its own installation technology. The most common insulation materials for ceilings are expanded clay and sawdust. These are bulk materials used to protect against the penetration of cold air from the attic or attic.

Features of creating thermal insulation

Insulating the ceiling in a private house is one of the most difficult measures for thermal insulation of a house. There are several important points to consider:

  • the created structure should not be heavy, as it puts additional load on the roofing elements;
  • it is necessary to take into account existing restrictions on the thickness of insulation;
  • the outer side of the insulation must have waterproofing protection;
  • ceiling insulation work is associated with inconvenience.

On a note! If there is a roof residential attic, insulate its ceiling; if it’s an attic, then insulate the attic floor inside or outside, but it’s better to insulate both.

External insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a porous material in the form of crushed stone or gravel, obtained by firing low-melting clay rocks that swell at a temperature of 1050 - 1300 degrees. Quality is determined by grain size, strength and volumetric weight.

Features and advantages of expanded clay

Expanded clay is an inexpensive material, for the production of which available raw materials and simple equipment are used. A cubic meter of placer M200 - 450 with delivery costs from 980 rubles. Thermal insulation technology using it is not difficult and does not require professional knowledge. For ceiling insulation to be effective, the expanded clay mound must be at least 10 cm thick. The thicker it is, the better.
Advantages:

  • excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
  • high degree of sound insulation;
  • light weight;
  • strength;
  • fire resistance;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • rot resistance;
  • resistance to aggressive chemical environments.

Technology of using expanded clay as insulation

Insulation is carried out from the attic side. Before filling the grains, vapor and waterproofing is laid. Builders often use roofing felt for these purposes, but this is not the best option from an environmental point of view. Roofing felt contains tar, which releases harmful substances, especially in summer, when the roof becomes very hot. For vapor and waterproofing, the best option would be the modern, inexpensive material “Izospan” of series C or B. To achieve maximum savings, aluminum foil or ordinary polyethylene film is suitable.

Let's consider how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with expanded clay, in what sequence and in what quantity it is laid.

  1. Take measurements of the length and width of the spaces between the beams. Roll out a roll of plastic film and cut it into strips, the length and width of which will be 10 cm greater than the distance between the beams.

  2. Lay waterproofing with an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and the edges of the beams. To ensure a high-quality protective layer, the seams are taped with a special tape.
  3. Glue the joints of the roofing material with rubber bitumen mastic. When using aluminum foil, foil-based tape is used.
  4. Insulate chimney pipes and rafter beams in the same way.
  5. Secure the canvas with a construction stapler and masking tape.
  6. Place crushed clay on the vapor barrier.
  7. Mix large and small fractions of expanded clay and pour them between the beams.
  8. To protect the thermal insulation package from damage, a cement-sand screed is placed on top of the expanded clay. In the attic, plank flooring is installed on the beams or other flooring methods are used.

Inexpensive insulation with sawdust

Most cheap insulation for the ceiling - environmentally friendly sawdust. They must be of medium fraction, dry, aged for at least a year, and not infected with fungus.

Thermal insulation solution with sawdust

To prepare the solution, take:

  • 10 buckets of sawdust;
  • 1 bucket of cement;
  • 0.5 buckets of slaked lime
  • antiseptic (borax, copper sulfate);
  • water.

The dry components of the solution are thoroughly mixed, an antiseptic is added to the water, after which the water and the dry mixture are thoroughly mixed. To determine the readiness of the mixture, take it in your hand and squeeze it. If the solution is ready, no moisture should be released when compressed; when you unclench your hand, the lump of the finished solution should not crumble.

Sequence of laying the solution

  1. Vapor and waterproofing is installed. This is done in the same way as when using expanded clay.
  2. The cement-sawdust mixture is evenly distributed over the surface.
  3. The solution is compacted to a thickness of 25-30 cm.

The insulation flooring acquires the necessary properties within two weeks. When walking on it, a crunching sound is heard, but the base does not sag.

Important! It is recommended to install thermal insulation using sawdust in warm weather. When they dry quickly, they form a durable thermal insulation layer.

Mineral wool for home insulation

Mineral wool is a thermal insulator traditionally used in construction. It is characterized by a low level of thermal conductivity, non-toxic, lightweight and easy to install. On the market building materials mineral wool is presented in a wide range. Stone (basalt) wool is considered the highest quality and most effective. Thermal insulation of the ceiling using it will cost more.

Scheme for laying mineral wool

When working with mineral wool, you must follow safety rules. Small particles of fibers separated from the slabs get on the skin and into the lungs, which is unsafe for humans. Protective clothing, a respirator and gloves will help protect against them.
The sequence of thermal insulation with mineral wool:

  • steam and waterproofing is laid on a surface cleared of dust and dirt (glassine is most often used for this);
  • the overlapping areas of the waterproofing strips are glued;
  • the edges are wrapped on the beams, secured with a stapler and secured with tape;
  • basalt insulation is laid tightly on glassine so that there are no gaps between it and the beams;
  • for greater efficiency, another layer is laid on top of the first layer, covering the beams and floor cracks;
  • the remaining gaps are blown out polyurethane foam;
  • a second layer of vapor barrier is laid on the mineral wool, and a screed is made on it;
  • Boards, chipboard or plywood are laid on top of the screed.

Thermal insulation using ecowool

Ecowool - crushed cellulose with antiseptic and fire-resistant additives. It is considered one of the best natural insulation materials for a wooden house. For maximum effect, the ecowool layer must have a thickness of at least 150 mm. When laying it, it must be fluffed and lightly compacted to avoid shrinkage.

Ecowool absorbs moisture, so when used in vapor barrier film not necessary. It is laid on wooden floors using a special blowing machine. The insulating layer is monolithic and saturated with air, the cracks are carefully blown out.

Thermal insulation using foam plastic

Foam plastic is a heat-insulating material obtained by foaming polymers under the influence of high temperatures while simultaneously filling them with natural gas. If you cannot decide how to insulate the ceiling from the inside, choose polystyrene foam. Here he has no equal.

Positive characteristics of polystyrene foam

  • light in weight;
  • simple and easy to install;
  • easy to cut and fasten;
  • has low thermal conductivity;
  • moisture resistant;
  • with excellent sound insulation properties;
  • not subject to rotting and decomposition;
  • affordable.

Insulating the ceiling in a private house with polystyrene foam from the attic side is done in the same way as with basalt wool.

How to insulate a ceiling from the inside with foam plastic

It is more difficult to insulate from the inside than from the outside. In the attic, the material is laid between the rafters and sewn up. In a living space, it is attached to the bottom of the rafters overhead. The difficulty of the work is that it is performed with outstretched arms.
Insulate the ceiling from the inside in the following sequence:

  1. The cracks are carefully filled with foam or caulked.
  2. If necessary, a frame is mounted.
  3. The vapor barrier is secured with a construction stapler.
  4. Sheets of foam plastic are glued to the vapor barrier.
  5. Another vapor barrier layer is laid on the foam.
  6. Then the final finishing is done - hemming with boards.

Note! The best option– insulation of the ceiling in the house from the inside and outside.

Tips for foam insulation

  • the insulation should be laid as tightly as possible, since due to the cracks formed between the slabs, cold bridges will form, which will reduce all efforts to nothing;
  • for internal insulation with foam plastic, one layer 5 cm thick is sufficient;
  • if the insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house is carried out from the outside, then the foam can be laid in several layers;
  • a heated attic will require a ventilation gap, without which condensation will form, the room will become damp and mold will appear in it.

Important! Insulation from the inside cannot be carried out after the renovation is completed. Performed at the stage of construction and renovation work.

teploguru.ru

Which ceiling insulation to choose

To insulate the ceiling, it is important to choose natural materials that will not compromise the environmental friendliness of a wooden house. They must be strong and durable, easy to install. The last quality is important if you plan to insulate the ceiling with your own hands. And, of course, the ceiling insulation should have high sound and heat insulation.

Experts recommend using sawdust, expanded clay, mineral wool or other rolled materials to insulate the roof and ceiling. They meet the requirements listed above. Do not choose synthetic insulation, as they will ruin the environmental friendliness of your home. In addition, such products can cause headaches and lead to respiratory complications.

Insulation with sawdust

Sawdust is the most affordable and cheap material. Most often, these raw materials turn out to be completely free. To insulate a residential building, you will need a layer of mortar 25-30 centimeters thick, for seasonal living and recreation - 20 centimeters, for a bathhouse you need 30-35 centimeters.

To prepare the solution, take half a bucket of lime, ten buckets of dry sawdust (10 liters each), one bucket of water and one bucket of cement (10 liters each), ten tablespoons of copper sulfate or borax. Lime is added to dry cement and mixed, then the mixture is mixed with sawdust and water is gradually poured in. Add vitriol or borax. Mix thoroughly. The mass is ready when, when squeezed in a fist, it forms a lump.


Before laying insulation, wooden structures must be treated with antiseptics and other protective agents. Do not forget that wood is a living material that is susceptible to the negative effects of moisture and insects. Treating walls and ceilings in a wooden house will increase the service life of the wooden structure and prevent rotting, loss of color and natural properties.

After processing the wooden floors, they lay waterproofing material. Regular roofing felt, PVC film and aluminum foil will do. Then the prepared mortar with cement and sawdust is evenly scattered. Finally, the warm sawdust layer is compacted.

Insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is an economical and environmentally friendly material that is made by firing clay in a special oven. Expanded clay is resistant to fire, which cannot be said about sawdust and mineral wool. It tolerates temperature changes well, does not rot and is not afraid of rodents. The installation scheme for this insulation is very simple, so you can easily insulate the ceiling with your own hands.

The technology for insulating expanded clay ceilings in a wooden house is as follows:

  • Wooden floors are covered with protective agents, the wiring and pipe outlet (if any) are insulated with non-combustible materials. Thin iron sheets and metal pipes are suitable;
  • The entire ceiling area is covered with waterproofing. Also take any rolled material (roofing felt, foil or film). You can secure the waterproofing with a construction stapler or double-sided molar tape;
  • Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid. The material is overlapped and secured with a stapler. The top of the vapor barrier film is covered with crushed clay;
  • Expanded clay is laid on the clay. The thickness of the layer is also determined depending on the purpose of the structure. For a residential cottage and bathhouse, the layer is 20-25 centimeters, for country house 15-20 centimeters is enough;
  • A screed of cement and sand is placed on the expanded clay, which will protect the expanded clay from the negative effects of external factors.

At the end of the work, finishing is carried out if the attic space is planned to be used for housing or work. Flooring made of chipboard or floorboards is attached to the beams. This decking will serve as the floor for this room. Read more about finishing the floor in a wooden house here.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is also an environmentally friendly and natural material, which, unlike sawdust and expanded clay, can be used to insulate the ceiling both inside and outside. When working with mineral wool, it is important to use a respirator, goggles and other protective equipment, since small particles of fiber that get into the eyes or respiratory system can be harmful to health. Mineral wool is characterized by low weight and high density, easy and quick installation. The material is not exposed to insects and rodents.

Internal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Treatment wooden structures protective equipment;
  • Lathing the ceiling using bars or boards, which are fastened at a distance of 40-60 centimeters from each other. Suitable for creating sheathing wooden crafts with a section of 40x40, 50x50, 40x100, etc. The width of the bars, slats or boards depends on the thickness of the insulation layer;
  • A waterproofing film is laid on the finished wooden sheathing and secured with self-tapping screws;
  • Mineral wool is laid on the waterproofing and secured with a construction stapler;
  • A vapor barrier layer is laid on the mineral wool.

When laying mineral wool, make sure that there are no cracks or gaps through which warm air will pass. Condensation will accumulate in such areas and the wood will begin to rot.

Today they produce special cotton insulation materials with foil. This material reflects back rather than transmitting or retaining heat. It is highly resistant to moisture and has a long service life. Mineral wool with foil is optimal for rooms with high humidity, for example, for insulating a bathhouse or sauna.

Finishing the ceiling in a wooden house

After insulating the ceiling from the inside, proceed to installing a false ceiling, plasterboard or wood panels, and then to finishing. Wooden lining is considered the most popular finishing material. These are affordable and easy to install products that look harmonious and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, they are suitable for finishing both the ceiling and walls in any room (in the steam room, living room, on the terrace and balcony).

Using plaster is an affordable and simple method that gives a classic, smooth finish. white ceiling. But this color is rarely appropriate in a wooden house. For complex design solutions and two-level ceilings use plasterboard, which is highly durable.

Solid wood panels are 100% made from elite wood, so such materials are very expensive, strong and durable. The solid wood ceiling looks prestigious and solid. Veneer panels are much cheaper, but are not inferior in aesthetic qualities. You will find a variety color scheme products that will make the interior of your home luxurious and sophisticated.

Easiest installation finishing materials- when laying a relief suspended ceiling, since it is attached directly to the base. Such a ceiling will help create an original ornament or pattern and make the design unique.

Each expert will advise for finishing the ceiling in log or timber house use wood. It will preserve the environmental friendliness and atmosphere of a wooden house, fit harmoniously into the interior and create a cozy atmosphere. Wood “breathes” and provides access to oxygen.

A wooden ceiling is indispensable for baths and saunas. Wood resists moisture and does not dry out, tolerates high temperatures and does not heat up. It has a healing effect and gives a pleasant forest aroma. Wood is easy to install and process. With help paint and varnish materials You can give the surface any color and shade. If properly treated, it will last for many years.

Not every material that is suitable for finishing the ceiling in a house can be used for finishing a bath. Such materials must withstand high humidity, sudden temperature changes and large amounts of steam. What to use for finishing a bath, read the link http://marisrub.ru/uslugi/vnutrennie-otdelochnye-raboty/otdelka-bani-ili-sauny.

Before any finishing, the ceiling in a wooden house must be insulated and have good sound insulation. First, a rough ceiling or lining is constructed, which is insulated various materials. And only then do they begin installing the finishing decorative surface.

Insulation of the roof and ceiling is an important and responsible process. If the work is carried out correctly, the house will remain warm for a long time, and there will be a comfortable and favorable atmosphere inside. In addition, insulation will allow you to equip and furnish the attic space.

Experienced masters of “MariSrub” will help you choose suitable materials, quickly and reliably insulate the ceiling and carry out roof finishing work. They will install a rough version of the ceiling, lay insulation and soundproofing materials. They will install the finishing surface and complete painting, varnishing and surface treatment work.

blog.marisrub.ru

What material to choose for ceiling insulation

In wooden houses, ceilings in most cases are insulated:

  • polystyrene foam;
  • mineral wool;
  • ecowool;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • sawdust;
  • expanded clay and so on.

To successfully insulate a ceiling, certain calculations must be made, since the effectiveness of “insulation” will depend on the material itself, its thickness and quality. In addition, you should take into account the internal and external temperatures (minimum and maximum), the design of the ceiling and roof, including the heat transfer coefficients of each element. As a result of thermal engineering calculations, the thickness of the layers of thermal insulation materials is determined.

The ceiling in a wooden house can be insulated in two ways: from above (from the attic) and from below (from the room). You can do it in two ways at once, in this case it will be much warmer.

Insulation of the ceiling from below (from the inside)

This method of insulation is quite good, but its implementation is not possible if repairs have already been made, the ceiling and walls have been made. Therefore, you need to think about insulation in advance.

This method can be used when renovating rooms or building a house.

Ceiling insulation is convenient for finishing plastic panels, plasterboard, slatted ceiling or other type of ceiling mounted on a frame base.

  1. Before installing the frame, be sure to thoroughly blow out all existing cracks with foam. If the cracks are quite large, they should be caulked and then blown out.
  2. Using a stapler, you need to attach a vapor barrier film (glassine) to the ceiling. As a result, the ceiling will be able to breathe, this will ensure the absence of condensation.
  3. Thermal insulation material should be laid in a way that is convenient. Can be in large or small pieces. The main thing is that the material is laid as tightly as possible - this will not allow cold air to pass through the cracks.
  4. After the thermal insulation material has been laid, you can begin installing the ceiling covering.


Materials for insulating the ceiling below

In a wooden house, it is best to use polystyrene foam, mineral wool or ecowool as insulation. These materials are quite good for work. But it is undesirable to use glass wool for work - it is not convenient for installation, and it is also harmful to health.

External methods of insulation

Available various ways insulation, which differ both in cost and materials used. In general, the cost of work is largely determined by the choice of insulation.

Naturally, most people want to save money. Therefore, the cheapest materials are selected. However, such savings will not always be justified, because cheap materials may have certain disadvantages. However, it's up to you.

Insulation with sawdust

It's simple and inexpensive option. Insulation with wood sawdust is a time-tested method.

You will need:

  1. dry sawdust of medium size;
  2. plastic film or glassine;
  3. cement in a ratio of one to ten;
  4. water.

If there are very fine sawdust, more cement will be needed, which will reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. This will also apply to fresh sawdust. It is best to take dry and medium ones so that there is no mold smell.

Styling:

  1. The surface should be prepared, it should be cleared of debris and unnecessary objects, and then covered with glassine. This will protect the sawdust from moisture from below. Instead of glassine, you can use polyethylene. The joints should be taped.
  2. The sawdust is thoroughly mixed with dry cement and water is added little by little. 20 buckets of shavings will require about 3 buckets of water.
  3. The resulting mixture should be evenly distributed over the ceiling, compacting it slightly with your feet. The layer should be about twenty centimeters. Such insulation should be carried out in the middle of summer, so that everything will dry out before the cold weather.

Insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is the best solution, because small pests and rodents do not like it, it is light, durable and does not rot. It also absorbs sounds well.

You will need:

  1. expanded clay;
  2. glassine;
  3. boards;
  4. scotch.

Styling:

  1. The surface should be prepared, it is cleared of debris, after which it is covered with glassine or film, secured to the beams. The joints should be taped.
  2. Expanded clay should be poured in a thick layer - at least 20 cm. If you live in cold regions, then the layer should be increased to 40 cm, but only if the ceilings are quite strong, since such a layer will weigh a lot.
  3. Expanded clay should be carefully covered with glassine. You can also use roofing felt, after which boards are laid on top.

Insulation with mineral wool

This method will be more expensive than the first two, but it will be more effective in terms of insulation.

You will need:

  1. vapor barrier film;
  2. polyurethane foam;
  3. mineral wool;
  4. stapler and tape;
  5. sand-cement mixture or boards.


Styling:

  1. The surface should be prepared, it should be cleared of debris, and then covered with a vapor barrier layer. The joints should be taped, and the edges should be secured to wooden floors. The ceilings should also be under the film.
  2. Then you need to lay the strips or slabs of mineral wool tightly, but do not compact them. In order for the insulation efficiency to be higher, it should be laid in two layers, with the top layer covering the joints of the bottom one.
  3. Existing cracks and gaps should be blown out with foam. Then all this needs to be covered with film. You can lay boards on top or screed.

Ceiling insulation can also be done using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Laying similar materials identical to insulation with mineral wool.

You can also combine these materials for better thermal insulation. The insulation of the ceiling should then be done as follows: after the vapor barrier layer, sheets of foam plastic should be laid. Existing cracks need to be blown out with foam, after which layers of mineral wool need to be laid. The remaining actions are carried out according to the method described above.

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Materials for ceiling insulation work

Today, the following materials can be used to insulate ceilings:

  • Expanded clay is a lightweight, durable, fire-resistant material that retains heat well and has excellent sound insulation properties.
  • Sawdust is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.
  • Polystyrene foam is one of the best options for ceiling insulation, which has a large number of positive characteristics.
  • Mineral wool is lightweight, non-toxic, but is much more expensive than other insulation materials.
  • Ecowool is a high-quality but expensive material.
  • Clay – has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Each of the listed materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you need insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, but you don’t know what kind would be better suited For your situation, do not rush to buy the most expensive material. To begin, carefully study the information provided.

Insulation of ceilings from the inside

The main disadvantage of the presented method of insulating ceilings is the fact that you have to fix all the elements above your head, and this is a very inconvenient position.

Important point! If the house has already been renovated, then the presented method will not be relevant for you. Experienced specialists recommend insulating ceilings at the stage of interior work, during the construction of a house (or during major renovations).

The sequence of insulating ceilings from the inside:

  1. 1. If there are cracks in the ceiling, be sure to eliminate them using polyurethane foam. Large holes must first be caulked.
  2. 2. In order to prevent the appearance of condensation, you need to attach a vapor barrier film to the ceiling. To perform these works you need a construction stapler.
  3. 3. The next stage is laying the thermal insulation material. Do this so that you are comfortable and the pieces of material fit snugly against each other, preventing warm air from leaking out.
  4. 4. Ceiling coverings are being installed.

The listed stages of insulation work are designed for the use of ecowool and glass wool. If you decide to use foam plastic (materials similar in structure), then after fixing the vapor barrier film, pieces of this material are glued to it, and another layer of film is applied on top.

The final stage of this work includes fixing the ceiling sheet or lining the ceiling with specially prepared boards. Pay attention to the fact that industry experts recommend insulating the ceiling in a room on both sides at the same time.

Sawdust - high-quality insulation?

For a more detailed analysis of the question of how to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house, it is necessary to consider the main methods of carrying out this work using different materials.

The use of wood sawdust for external insulation of ceilings has been time-tested.

This is an inexpensive and moderately effective method, which requires the following components:

  • Water.
  • Cement.
  • Polyethylene or vapor barrier film.
  • Dry sawdust ( optimal size- average).

The whole process consists of the following steps:

  1. 1. Prepare the surface: remove debris, seal the cracks, and lay down the film.
  2. 2. A mixture of cement and sawdust is prepared. Water is added gradually.
  3. 3. The resulting mixture is laid (layer height 15-20 cm).

Here's a great video from a real home owner who decided to insulate his ceiling using sawdust. Look what he finally says:

Note! The above work should be carried out no later than July-August, so that the mixture of cement and sand dries well before the cold weather. Main disadvantage The presented method is that the tree tends to rot, and the entire protective layer can be destroyed by rodents and insects.

Application of expanded clay

In many respects, the presented material is one of the best for use as a material that retains heat in the house.

It will not be eaten by mice or damaged by insects, it is designed for a long period of use, does not rot and has excellent sound insulation.

To install insulation, in addition to expanded clay, you will need:

  • Drywall/Boards.
  • Vapor barrier film.
  • Scotch.

The entire process of installing insulating materials can be divided into the following stages:

  1. 1. Preparing the coating. The debris is removed, the joints are sealed, and the film is laid.
  2. 2. Expanded clay is poured. The height of the covering must be at least 20 cm.
  3. 3. Vapor barrier film and boards are laid on top.

By the way, here is a very revealing video in which a foreman with many years of experience shares his thoughts on ceiling insulation using expanded clay:

Some owners wooden houses Expanded clay is laid so that its height is 30-50 cm. Of course, the thicker the protective layer, the better the heat will be retained, but do not forget about the loads on the floors. This amount of expanded clay has a decent weight; not every structure can support it.

Mineral wool

The nature and first stages of performing these works are the same as in the case of sawdust. After preparing the surface, cotton wool is laid, cracks and holes are blown out (large ones will definitely be caulked), and then the whole thing is covered with film. You can put boards on top or make a screed.

Some experts advise doing combined protection. To do this, lay the first layer of polystyrene foam (its analogues), and the second layer of mineral wool. Further steps are carried out according to the above scenario.

Ceiling insulation using clay

Today clay is the same popular material as it was a hundred years ago. Its main advantages are durability, reliability and the ability to retain heat well. Clay as insulation is used only together with sawdust.

After preparing the coating, a vapor barrier film is laid, onto which a solution of clay and wood sawdust is applied (layer thickness 10-15 cm). At first, it is necessary to monitor how the solution dries. All cracks must be sealed with clay.

Representatives of the older generation (especially rural residents) still remember the times when clay mixed with straw was used as insulation. But today such a solution is practically not used.

Roll insulation

The process of insulating the ceiling of a wooden house in this case is slightly different from all of the above methods:

  1. 1. The first stage includes preparing the surface, driving nails into it (not completely) and zigzag tensioning the threads.
  2. 2. Rolls are laid.
  3. 3. The vapor barrier film is fixed.
  4. 4. The nails are driven all the way in to better press the insulation.
  5. 5. Boards or drywall are nailed on top.

Important point! If you work with roll insulation (mineral or glass wool), be sure to use protective clothing, glasses, gloves and a bandage for your nose and mouth to prevent harmful particles from getting on your skin, eyes, nose, etc.

When performing this work, be sure to ensure that there are no cracks anywhere.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling, be sure to study the tips provided by professionals.

  • Before starting work on ceiling insulation, be sure to check the condition of the roof. If there are gaps, cracks, etc., first eliminate them, and only then proceed to insulate the ceiling.
  • If you decide to insulate the ceiling from the inside, combine this work with renovations in the room.
  • Do not try to fill large cracks with foam alone; first caulk them.
  • For internal insulation of the ceiling, it is quite enough to use polystyrene foam, the thickness of which does not exceed 5 cm.
  • Laying rolled materials must be done by two people; even an experienced specialist will not be able to hold the threads and insert the cotton wool at the same time.
  • When carrying out work on insulating ceilings, always try to lay the material so that the joints overlap and the cracks are closed.

This article explains in detail how to properly insulate a ceiling in a wooden house so that the work done is of high quality and effective. If you have carefully studied the information presented, then you will not have any serious problems in the process of insulating ceilings.

In the harsh Russian winters, the problem high-quality insulation living at home is a matter of, if not survival, then at least the comfort of life and health of your family members. In a “cold” cottage without any thermal insulation, heating costs will break all imaginable records, and colds will become the norm for its residents.

But this will not happen if you do good insulation of the walls, floors and ceilings in the house. This is especially true for ceilings - heated air always tends upward, and if it does not meet a barrier on its way in the form of a layer of thermal insulation material, it will simply go outside. And you will end up with condensation on the ceiling and b O higher heating costs.

The quality of ceiling insulation greatly depends on what material is used and how competently its installation was carried out. And at this moment the owner is faced with the question: what to choose? Today, there are many types of insulation on the building materials market, and each of them is presented as the best in its segment. This article should help you in solving the problem of choosing thermal insulation materials; it will tell you about their features, installation methods, advantages and disadvantages.

Methods for insulating the ceiling

First, you need to talk about ways to insulate the ceiling. In our case, this will be the ceiling of the last floor, above which there is only the attic and the roof - it is through it that the main heat losses occur.

The first method of insulation is external. If you do not plan to make an attic under the roof, then this method is suitable for you. On the attic floor using wooden beam and boards, a frame is mounted, the internal space of which is filled with heat-insulating material. The design of the frame depends on what kind of insulation you use.

If you want to build an attic or a small warehouse in the attic, then you should insulate the ceiling from the inside. In this case, in the rooms of the top floor, the above-mentioned frame is formed on the ceilings, secured with dowels and nails. After laying the thermal insulation material, it is covered with plasterboard, plastic panels or clapboard. This method of insulation is very labor-intensive and also reduces the height of the living space. Therefore, at the stage of building a house, you should take this point into account and make the walls of the last floor a little higher.

Advice! A layer of vapor barrier should be laid between the insulation and the ceiling, otherwise the moisture rising with the air will be absorbed by the insulation, which will significantly deteriorate its properties. In addition, dampness under the roof is not in the best possible way affects the strength of the rafters.

Insulation of ceilings in a house with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fibrous heat insulator produced in the form of rolls or slabs. The composition of the material is determined by GOST R 52953-2008, and there are three types of mineral wool - stone, slag and glass (better known as glass wool). Let's take a closer look at them.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

GOST R 52953-2008 “Heat-insulating materials and products. Terms and Definitions"

Stone wool is made from various rocks, such as diabase or gabbro, in addition, it contains clay, limestone, dolomite and a binder containing formaldehyde resins. The average thermal conductivity coefficient of stone wool is 0.08-0.12 W/(mK). In our case, the lower its value, the more suitable the material is for the role of insulation.

Important! One of the biggest disadvantages of mineral wool is that it may contain substances that, when heated, release phenols into the air, which are dangerous to humans. There have been discussions and debates around this issue for a long time. The safest is considered to be basalt wool, which contains a minimal amount of potential harmful substances.

Unlike stone, slag wool is made from blast furnace slag and other metallurgical waste. The thermal conductivity coefficient averages 0.47 W/(mK), which, combined with its high hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb moisture), makes slag wool an unsuitable material for insulating ceilings. In addition, it has residual acidity, so it should be kept away from metal pipes, beams and other products.

Glass wool ranks first in terms of thermal insulation quality among mineral wools - 0.03 W/(mK). It is also distinguished by a very low price. The disadvantages include the fact that particles of this material can cause harm to humans if they get on the skin, eyes or lungs. But this is, to one degree or another, characteristic of all types of mineral wool, therefore, when working with them, it is necessary to wear gloves, safety glasses, a respirator mask and closed work clothes.

The main advantage of all types of mineral wool is that this material is very convenient for transportation, carrying and installation, as it is light in weight. In addition, it is non-flammable and at very high temperatures can only sinter (while losing its thermal insulation properties). And it is especially important for country houses that mineral wool is not an attractive place for rodents, insects, fungi or mold.

Most well-known manufacturers of this material are the companies Isover, Ursa and Paroc. If quality is important to you, then when going to a hardware store, look for mineral wool from these companies. When choosing, also pay attention to the density of the material - the ceiling may not withstand samples of mineral wool that are too dense and heavy.

The insulation process should begin by determining the area of ​​the ceiling, because first you need to calculate how much mineral wool, vapor and waterproofing films you will need. Next, the technology of external ceiling insulation will be considered. If you require internal insulation, follow the same instructions, but swap the layers of hydro- and vapor barrier.

Glass wool prices

glass wool

Calculation of ceiling area

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need wooden boards or a metal profile, tools for cutting mineral wool, protective clothing and equipment (gloves, a respirator and goggles) and fasteners.

  1. First, we lay a vapor barrier film on the floor of the attic, making sure that there are no breaks in it. The laying should be overlapped, the seams should be taped with special vapor barrier tape.
  2. On top of it we install a lathing made of wood or galvanized profile. The distance between the slats should be several - a couple of centimeters - less than the width of the sheet or roll of mineral wool. This way the insulation will fit more tightly. The height of the lathing should exceed the thickness of the thermal insulation layer by 1-2 centimeters in order to subsequently ensure air circulation between it and the waterproofing.
  3. We unpack the mineral wool and place it in the space between the slats. If the material is laid in several layers, the next layer should overlap the seams of the previous one.
  4. We attach the waterproofing to the sheathing on top using a furniture stapler. In this case, as mentioned above, there should be a small space between it and the mineral wool for air circulation.

Foam insulation

Foam plastic is considered the second most popular after mineral wool. Foams are called polymer materials, consisting of cells filled with gas. This is why foam plastics perform well as a heat-insulating material. Of these, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam can most often be found in everyday life. On average, the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene foam is 0.041 W/(mK), which in terms of insulating qualities makes it similar to glass wool.

Like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam have a low price and light weight. The latter property makes them convenient for transportation, storage and installation on the ceiling. However, polystyrene foam has a number of disadvantages that make it not best choice for a residential building.

  1. Polystyrene foam burns well and at the same time emits many substances hazardous to humans. Moreover, they can be released even with slight heating.
  2. Mice can grow in the foam layer, but it is worth noting that it is not a breeding ground for insects or fungus.
  3. In a room whose ceiling is insulated with foam plastic, a “greenhouse effect” may occur.

There are two ways to install polystyrene foam - on a frame and with glue. The first is in many ways similar to mineral wool insulation, but when laying foam sheets between slats, “liquid nails” must be applied to their sides. And about installing this material using glue, you should tell us in more detail and step by step.

Prices for foam plastic

Styrofoam

  1. The surface on which the foam will be laid is thoroughly washed and cleaned of possible irregularities. If necessary, it can be primed.
  2. Glue is applied to the foam sheets (tile glue works well) and after waiting three minutes the sheet must be pressed to the surface of the attic or ceiling.
  3. Repeat the procedure with all other foam sheets.
  4. Apply a layer of reinforcing plaster to the sheets and lay a fiberglass mesh. After drying, the mesh is covered with another layer of plaster.

Penoizol as insulation

An alternative to polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam can be penoizol, which is a “liquid” foam. Thanks to special additives, it gets rid of the main disadvantages of its solid counterparts - attractiveness to rodents and flammability. The disadvantage of penoizol is that to apply it you need to call a team of workers with special equipment, and this can be quite expensive.

The technology of insulation using penoizol is simple: we lay a vapor barrier and fill the space between the attic beams with a layer of insulation to a thickness of 20-30 centimeters.

You can additionally lay a layer of roofing material on top and lay a plank floor.

Ecowool

The prefix “eco-” in the title of this material is not used for advertising purposes. Ecowool is truly an environmentally friendly material, as it consists of 80% natural cellulose. The remaining 20% ​​are various additives, such as lingin, which gives the structure stickiness, or boric acid and antiseptics, which protect ecowool from rot, fungus and rodents. This material also contains fire retardants, thanks to which ecowool does not burn, but only smolders under the influence of flame and very high temperatures. Thermal conductivity of the material is 0.038 W/(mK). There are two ways to insulate the ceiling using environmentally friendly cotton wool - dry and wet. In the first case, the material is placed in prepared “cells” of the ceiling, but its thermal insulation properties will be only 60-70% of the possible ones. The second method uses special equipment that moistens ecowool and sprays it under high pressure

. When in contact with water, the insulation becomes sticky and adheres tightly to the surface of the ceiling or attic. The disadvantage of ecowool is precisely that for its “wet” application you will need special equipment and people who know how to work with it.

Let's consider the stages of insulating the ceiling using ecowool externally.

  1. Prices for ecowool
  2. The surface of the ceiling is cleaned and leveled - it is necessary to get rid of dirt and construction debris.
  3. A lathing made of wooden beams is installed, similar to the lathing for laying mineral wool. If desired, you can skip this step, but then it will be impossible to use the attic.
  4. A layer of vapor barrier film is laid. If necessary, you can wrap the sheathing structure itself in it. Using a blowing machine, ecowool fills the space between the slats. Particular attention should be paid to cracks and. The minimum layer of insulation should be 25 centimeters, but if you live in an area with very cold winters, then the thickness should be increased to 40-50 cm.
  5. A waterproofing film is laid over the ecowool, overlapping and with the seams secured using special tape.

Video - External attic insulation with ecowool

Ceiling insulation using expanded clay

Expanded clay is a bulk thermal insulation material, which is stones made of baked clay with a porous structure. It is very popular as floor insulation, but is also suitable for ceilings if their insulation is carried out externally. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is 0.18 W/(mK). Due to its composition, this insulation does not burn, does not smolder or melt, does not emit harmful substances into the air and is unattractive to fungus or mice.

But at the same time, expanded clay is inferior in thermal insulation properties to foam plastic or mineral wool, and, moreover, it is a very dense and heavy material, so it can only be used for fairly strong ceilings that have support beams.

The technology for insulating the ceiling with expanded clay is as follows.


An alternative to expanded clay among bulk thermal insulators can be foam glass, also often called foam crumb. Its thermal conductivity is 0.08 W/(mK), which is more than two times less than expanded clay (we remind you that in the case of insulation, the lower this figure, the better).

Sawdust as insulation

Finally, we come to a material that has been used as insulation for decades, even before foam and mineral wool were invented. This is sawdust. They can be used either independently, simply filling the attic with them, or as part of a mixture with clay or cement.

The only advantage of such insulation is its low cost - you can either use waste from your own construction, or go to the nearest sawmill and get the material for free or for a nominal price. But does the cheapness of sawdust outweigh all its disadvantages?

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay

  1. Sawdust burns well, so when using it, you should protect all electrical wiring in the attic with metal boxes. In addition, this material should not be used near a stove or fireplace chimney.
  2. Rodents, insects or fungus may appear in the sawdust, and without impregnation with an antiseptic it will not be possible to get rid of these problems.
  3. The material shrinks greatly over time, which significantly worsens its thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will have to regularly add fresh sawdust.
  4. With such insulation it is impossible to use the space under the roof - neither build an attic nor store old furniture and other things in the attic.

The cement-sawdust solution is prepared as follows: for 10 parts of sawdust of fine or medium fraction, take 1 part cement and 1 part lime. The substances are thoroughly mixed together until a dry mixture is formed. Then you need to take 5-10 parts of water mixed with a few tablespoons of copper sulfate. In our case, vitriol acts as an antiseptic that will prevent the sawdust insulation from rotting. Pour in the mixture and bring it to a homogeneous mass. Checking whether it is ready is quite simple: take the cement-sawdust mixture and squeeze it in your fist. If no water drips from it, then it is ready.

Next, you need to prepare the attic for insulation. To do this, you need to lay a vapor barrier material and process everything wooden elements structures with fire retardant (impregnation that protects against combustion). After this, you need to lay out the cement-sawdust mixture, level it and leave it for a couple of weeks so that it dries completely.

Important! If necessary, cement can be replaced with clay. Also remember that when drying, cracks may appear in the cement-sawdust insulation. They need to be sealed using the same mixture.

Bottom line

This concludes the review of materials for thermal insulation of the ceiling in the house. Now, after weighing all the pros and cons, you can choose the most suitable insulation for you. Below is a table designed to compare the characteristics of thermal insulation materials.

Table. Comparison of the main parameters of popular insulation materials.

NameDensity, kg/m3Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(mK)Flammability
Glass wool200 0,03 Doesn't burn, melts
Basalt woolFrom 75 to 200, depending on the brand0,12 Doesn't burn, melts
StyrofoamFrom 40 to 1500,041 Burns, releases hazardous substances
You can additionally lay a layer of roofing material on top and lay a plank floor.From 40 to 750,038 Doesn't burn, melts
Expanded clayFrom 800 to 12000,18 Does not burn
SawdustFrom 200 to 4000,08 Burning

Don't want to breathe phenols and are you a fan of environmental cleanliness? Then you should opt for ecowool, but you will have to consider the costs of hiring a specialist who will insulate the ceiling using this material. The most optimal in terms of cost, ease of installation, safety and thermal insulation properties is mineral wool, while basalt wool is worth highlighting separately as containing the least amount of harmful substances and having the widest range of permissible temperatures. The cheapest options would be sawdust or expanded clay. Polystyrene foam is relatively inexpensive and has good thermal insulation, but the substances it releases can be dangerous.

Video - What is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house? Comparison of options

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

A wooden house is a warm structure in itself. That is why many city residents are leaving their cramped apartments and moving to a suburban home. Wooden buildings are convenient and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer it is pleasantly cool, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: you cannot do without insulation for the ceiling of a wooden room.

Often, all heat loss from the inside occurs due to improperly finished ceilings. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you may not be able to wait winter time coziness and comfort. Modern windows and wall insulation will not help; everything depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several available and simple ways insulation from the inside and outside with your own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation outside from the attic and inside the room. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to install the floor covering.


When insulating, you need to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, noise insulation, fire resistance

When choosing the right material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

  • strength and durability;
  • no harm to health;
  • fire resistance;
  • reliable thermal insulation qualities;
  • presence of sound insulation.

What can be used?

  • mineral or glass wool;
  • sawdust;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • Styrofoam;
  • clay;
  • expanded clay

Using sawdust

They are the cheapest and in an accessible way insulation from the outside, while their qualities are not inferior to expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done with your own hands. First you should prepare the materials:

  • several bags of sawdust;
  • insulating material. It is necessary to calculate the required amount. To do this, you need to know exactly the surface area;
  • cement.

A mixture of sawdust and cement for ceiling insulation

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to correctly calculate the required number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be needed for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will act as insulation.. What should sawdust be like? The first ones you come across are no good. The material must meet the following requirements:

  • dryness, lack of moisture;
  • age at least one year;
  • absence of mold and its smell;
  • the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

The sawdust mixture should be evenly distributed over the ceiling surface

Sequencing:

  1. Clean the surface from dust and dirt.
  2. Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
  3. Take the waterproofing material prepared in advance and lay it over the entire floor space.
  4. Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a rich gray color.
  5. Distribute the mixture throughout the entire inter-ceiling space.
  6. You can walk on the thermal insulation layer to compact it. This will allow the mixture to set better and not allow heat to escape.

If you have access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house only from the inside, you will have to choose a different method.

What are the benefits of rolled materials?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other roll insulation materials, reliably protect the room, but they are difficult to work with: small particles fall off and get into the mouth, nose, and eyes. To avoid injury, you need to take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and glasses.


Ceiling insulation scheme roll materials, mats and bulk materials

Sequence of stages:

  1. Nails are hammered onto the rough surface. In this case, you need to hammer in not up to the head, but so that they stick out slightly. Then the threads are pulled over them using the zigzag technique.
  2. The insulation itself is installed. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. This way the glass wool can be inserted better.
  3. Anti-condensation film is attached.
  4. Now you can nail the nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
  5. You can nail sheets of drywall or attach a false ceiling.

Attention: work requires caution and attention. It is necessary to ensure that there are no cracks: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

A widely known material that can retain heat. Only used when adding other materials. Sawdust and glassine are usually added.


Clay retains heat perfectly, so it is used for insulation.

Sequence of work:

  • lay glassine or any other analogue;
  • mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
  • Apply the mixture in a 15 cm layer and let dry. If there are cracks, they need to be rubbed with clay.

Insulation from the inside

What to do if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease somewhat. Now the thermal insulation will be on the inside. How to carry out the work?

It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent dampness of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after this can you hem decorative ceiling. How to do the work?


  1. The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same glassine will do. It can be coated with glue in several places.
  2. A mounting strip is driven through the vapor barrier. It’s better to take your time and do everything as carefully as possible: holes are drilled in the mounting rails for self-tapping screws, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
  3. Thermal insulation is fixed. Polystyrene foam is inserted between the slats.
  4. A second layer of vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
  5. The entire structure is masked with PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another simplest and most accessible method after sawdust. Pros:

  • ecologically pure;
  • unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
  • resistant to temperature changes;
  • not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
  • simple installation technology;
  • low price;
  • easy to do with your own hands.

Expanded clay insulation scheme

All work is carried out outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. It will even do plain film PVC. It is better not to use roofing felt: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

  1. The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-flammable materials. Sheets of iron or metal pipes are suitable.
  2. Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area. The joints need to be processed. The waterproofing is securely fixed using a stapler or special tape.
  3. Vapor barrier is being laid. The overlap laying technology is suitable. Then everything is secured with a stapler.
  4. You need to lay 5 cm of crushed soft clay on the vapor barrier layer.
  5. Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay. How to determine the layer thickness? It can be from 15 cm or more.
  6. A screed is laid on the expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.

  1. There is a foam one ceiling tiles– it itself protects against the cold quite well.
  2. Don't stop at insulating the ceiling. Walls and floors can also transmit heat.
  3. If difficulties arise when insulating with your own hands, it is better to turn to craftsmen who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling brings virtually no benefit.
  4. Fitting with plasterboard requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this necessary? If you do not do this, you may soon suffer from a fallen structure.
  5. In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold weather the excess moisture has time to evaporate.

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all work should be done immediately upon moving in.