How to make a hip roof at home with your own hands. Do-it-yourself hipped roof 4 pitched roofs and their structures

Construction of a frame for a roof with four slopes is a complex process with characteristic technological features. During construction, our own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and durability when repelling atmospheric attacks. AND House master will be able to be proud of his personal achievements as a roofer.

However, before deciding to install such a design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the rafter system of a hipped roof is constructed and with the specifics of its design.

The class of hipped roofs combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called tent, the second - hip. Compared to their pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of pediments, called gables in the roofing industry. In the construction of both versions of hipped structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched rafter systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

• In a hip roof, all four slopes have the shape of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in a tent structure; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of a hanging truss.
• U hip roof a pair of main slopes has a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair has a triangular configuration. The hip structure differs from its tent-type counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapezoids are adjacent at the upper bases. Triangular slopes, also known as hips, are adjacent to the ridge at their apex, and their sides are connected to the inclined sides of the trapezoids.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in plan, it is clear that hip structures are usually erected over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and . The characteristic square or rectangular shape is repeated in the drawings rafter system a hipped roof with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip systems are used together in the construction of one building or effectively complement gable, lean-to, sloping and other roofs.

Structures with four slopes can rest directly on the upper crown wooden house or on a mauerlat, which serves as the top frame of brick or concrete walls. If upper and lower supports can be found for each rafter, the roof frame is constructed using layered technology.

Installation of layered rafter legs is simpler and more accessible for an inexperienced home roofer, who needs to take into account that:

• When rigidly fastening the upper and lower heels of the rafters with metal corners or using a supporting wooden plate, reinforced fastening of the Mauerlat will be required, because the thrust will be transferred to it.
• If the upper heel is rigidly fixed and the bottom of the rafter is hinged, there is no need to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because if the load on the roof is exceeded, a hinged fastening, for example on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the mauerlat.
• When the top of the rafters is hinged and the bottom is rigidly fixed, expansion and pressure on the Mauerlat are also eliminated.

Issues of fastening the Mauerlat and the closely related method of installing rafter legs according to the rules are resolved at the stage of designing a house. If the building does not have an internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports for the central part of the roof, nothing will work other than a hanging rafter system assembly scheme. True, in most cases the layered construction method is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary to provide in advance a load-bearing support inside the structure.

In the construction of rafter systems for hipped and hipped roofs, specific structural elements are used, these are:

• Diagonal rafter legs forming the spinal connections of the slopes. IN hip structures diagonals, also known as slanted rafters, connect the ridge girder consoles to the corners of the roof. In tent systems, sloping legs connect the top to the corners.
• Spreaders, or rafter half-legs, installed perpendicular to the eaves. They rest on diagonal rafters and are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narozhniki form the planes of tent and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and flanges are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave corners of the roof are arranged, and not convex ones like hip ones.

The whole difficulty of constructing frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes must withstand a load one and a half times greater than ordinary rafters of pitched roofs. Because they also work as a hobbyhorse, i.e. support for the upper heel of the runners.

If we briefly describe the procedure for constructing a layered frame for a hipped roof, then it can be done in several stages:

• Installation of a mauerlat on brick or concrete walls. The process of installing a mauerlat on walls made of logs or timber can be eliminated, because it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
• Installation of the central support for the hip structure or the supporting frame of the main part of the hip roof.
• Installation of conventional layered rafters: a pair for a hip roof and a row determined by the design solution for a hip structure.
• Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems to the top of the support or extreme points skate.
• Manufacturing to size and fastening of spigots.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of the construction of a tent frame will be the installation of a triangular roof truss in the center. The installation of a four-slope hip rafter system will begin with the installation of a number of roof trusses.

Construction of a hip rafter system

Let's look at one of the common examples of a hip roof with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on floor beams laid on top of the mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a notch will be used only to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge girder, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box of the house shown in the example are 8.4 × 10.8 m. The actual dimensions of the roof in plan will increase on each side by the amount of the eaves overhang, by 40-50cm.

Installation of the base according to the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a purely individual element; the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and architectural features the buildings. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation of the Mauerlat it is recommended:

• Lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls should be equipped with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured around the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period to secure the Mauerlat.
• Edge the brick walls with a side of one or two bricks along the outer edge so that a ledge is formed along the inner edge for laying wooden frame. During laying, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks to secure the Mauerlat with brackets to the wall.

The mauerlat is made from timber measuring 150×150 or 100×150mm. If you intend to use the under-roof space, it is advisable to take thicker beams. The timber is connected into a single frame with oblique cuts. Then the connection areas are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or wood grouse, and the corners are reinforced with staples.

Floor beams are laid on top of the horizontally leveled mauerlat, constructed in the optimal way for a particular building. A beam with a cross section of 100×200mm is used. The first step is to lay a beam running exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the timber is not enough to construct solid beams, so they are assembled from two beams. The docking point must be located above a reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The pitch between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the box being equipped does not have ideal parameters, as is the case in most situations, the distance between the beams can be changed slightly. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly “smooth out” the flaws in construction. Between the outer beams on both sides and the walls of the house there should be a gap of 90 cm wide, necessary for installing the outriggers.

Because the floor beams can independently form only two eaves overhangs; short half-beams of the floor - extensions - are attached to their ends. They are first installed only in the area of ​​the main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be mounted. The extension is nailed to the mauerlat, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, dowels, and the fasteners are reinforced with corners.

Construction of the ridge part

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system for it is arranged according to the rules dictated by. In the example there are some deviations from the classical interpretation of the pitched principle: the bed on which supports for the ridge run are traditionally installed is not used. The work of the beam will have to be done by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof rafter system you need to:

• Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge girder. The purlin will rest on three supports, the central one of which is installed directly on the central floor beam. To install the two outer supports, first two cross beams are laid, covering at least five floor beams. Stability is increased with the help of two struts. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the supporting frame, a block with a cross-section of 100x150mm was used, the struts were made of boards 50x150mm.
• Make rafter legs, for which you first need to make a template. A board of suitable size is applied to the installation site, and lines for future cuts are drawn on it. This will be the template for the continuous production of rafters.
• Install the rafter legs, resting them with the notch on the ridge girder, and with the lower heel on the stem located opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the frame, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example they rest on the stem, so it is necessary to arrange additional mini-supports for them. These supports should be positioned so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transferred to the walls.

Then three rows of outriggers are installed on each of the four sides. For the convenience of further actions, the roof contour is formed with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and extensions strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner extensions

In the space limited by the eaves board, there were corner areas left unfilled with parts of the rafter system. Here you will need corner offsets, for installation of which is carried out as follows:

• To indicate the direction of installation, pull the string. We stretch from the point of conditional intersection of the outer support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
• On top of the lace we place the block in its place. Holding the block, we draw cut lines from below where the block intersects the floor beam and the corner connection of the eaves boards.
• We attach the finished stem with sawn off excess to the mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner extensions are manufactured and installed in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, or also slanted, rafter legs are made from two boards sewn together with a cross-section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be located slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of inclination of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

Sequence of work on the manufacture and installation of slopes:

• From the highest point of the skate, we stretch the lace to the corners and to the central point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark upcoming cuts.
• Using a carpenter's goniometer, we measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the corner stem. This is how the angle of the bottom cut is determined. Let's assume it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated using the formula β = 90º – α.
• At an angle β we cut off one edge of a random piece of board. We apply it to the place of the upper fastening, aligning the edge of this workpiece with the lace. We outline the excesses that interfere with a tight installation. You need to cut again along the marked lines.
• At an angle α we saw off the lower heel on another piece of board.
• We make the first half of the diagonal rafter using templates for the upper and lower support. If a solid board is not long enough, you can join two pieces together. They can be spliced ​​using a meter-long piece of inch mounted on self-tapping screws; it should be placed on the outside of the bevel leg being constructed. We install the finished first part.
• We make the second part of the sloped rafter in the same way, but keep in mind that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The area where the boards are joined into one element should not coincide with the area where the boards are joined in the first half of the slope.
• We sew two boards with nails at intervals of 40-50 cm.
• Along the cord stretched to the center of the slope, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the cut to connect it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, you need to install three more diagonal legs. Supports should be installed under each of them at the point where the corner extensions are connected to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, another support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the skate and the center of the slope is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now you need to measure the angle γ using it and calculate the angle δ = 90º – γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower supports. We apply the top trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. Using the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it should be.

We install short extensions in the space between the corner extensions and the cornice board to add rigidity to the structure and to ensure strong fixation of the outermost, shortest extensions. Next, you should start making templates for the makers themselves:

• We cut the piece of board at an angle δ and attach it to the place of attachment to the diagonal rafter.
• We outline the excess that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all flaps, for example the right side of the hip. For the left part, the upper template will be filed from the opposite side.
• As a template for the lower heel of the splices, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all previous steps were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other springs.

In accordance with the actual length and “indications” of the templates, the splices necessary for forming the planes of the hips and parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs are made. They are installed so that the upper fastening points of the spigots to the diagonal rafters are spaced apart, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The splices are attached to the slanted rafter leg with corners, to the floor beams and outriggers in the way that is more reasonable and convenient: with corners or metal toothed plates.

The technology for installing a hip roof is based on the already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the rafter system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the rafters are attached, and then the frames. If hanging technology is used in the construction of an envelope roof, then the finished truss is installed first.

We invite you to take advantage of our free online calculator for calculations of building materials when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Useful video instructions

The video will briefly introduce the sequence and rules for installing the rafter system of a hipped roof of the hip and hip categories:

Having become familiar with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely begin to implement plans for its construction.

Most often, a hipped roof for a house is chosen because of its visual appeal, without taking into account that this design has other advantages: the ability to withstand high wind loads, increase the level of protection of walls from moisture, and allow the installation of living quarters in the attic space.

Hip roof with your own hands. Photo

Four slopes are considered the best option for regions with strong winds and large amounts of precipitation. When deciding to build a hipped roof yourself, you must take into account that this design requires accurate drawings and increased attention when measuring and marking.

Preparatory work

The main difference between a hip roof with four slopes and a structure with two slopes is the absence of the need for side gables. The four-slope structure consists of two trapezoidal and two triangular slopes, the latter replacing the pediments.

Under the roof there can be simply an attic space or a residential attic. The construction of a hipped roof begins with determining its purpose and selecting materials, taking into account climate features. It is important to take into account the amount of precipitation and wind strength when choosing the angles of the slopes, the thickness of materials for wooden components and the type of roof.

Important! The slope of the slopes can vary from 5 to 60° . The stronger the winds and more precipitation, the greater the slope.

The wooden components must be thicker than for a gable structure. If the slope does not exceed 18°, suitable for roofing roll materials. For a slope of 18-30°, it is better to choose metal or ceramic tiles.

Calculation h DIY hipped roof. Photo

Upon completion of the first stage, an accurate roofing diagram. You must know what materials and in what quantities you need to buy.

Stages of building a hipped roof with your own hands

For the installation of a hipped roof, coniferous wood without defects with a humidity of 18-22% is used. First of all, a foundation is arranged that evenly distributes the load on the supporting structures. A layer is laid around the perimeter of the building waterproofing and mounted Mauerlat- solid timber 10x15 cm or 15x15 cm. The connections are made into an overlay; metal brackets, plates and corners are used to connect the corners.

The next step in constructing a hip roof is installation of beds. This is a beam that serves as a support for the racks and is located on the base. Next, racks (beams 10x10 or 10x15 cm) are mounted on the beams with a rafter pitch (no more than 2 meters), a ridge beam (10x20 cm) is installed, temporarily resting on special racks.

Important! It is necessary to pay special attention to the angle of installation of the racks.

When installing a hipped roof, it is necessary to take into account that it consists of 4 planes. For slopes in the form of trapezoids, lateral rafters, for triangular ones - diagonal (oblique). This is a solid beam 10x15 cm or 10x20 cm, which is mounted in increments of 50-150 cm. If joints are necessary, overlays are mounted and secured in several places.

DIY hipped roof. Photo

At the points where the rafters rest on the base, you need to make cuts and secure the structure with metal elements. From above, the rafters rest against the ridge beam, connected to the racks using grooves. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to use diagonal supports, struts, and steel connecting elements.

Roof installation

The final stage of building a hipped roof with your own hands is the installation of a waterproofing layer, counter-lattice, sheathing (or solid flooring). Placed on the rafters waterproofing material . Its purpose is to prevent the destruction of the rafter system due to moisture from the attic getting under the roofing material. The film is laid overlapping and secured with adhesive tape for tightness.

The next step is the device counter-lattice. This is a timber or board treated with an antiseptic. It is attached to the rafters, allows you to fix the waterproofing material, and creates an air cushion between the roofing material and the insulation.

For lathing, dry boards 4-5 cm wide are used, which are attached to the counter-lattice at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. If there are no plans to equip living quarters in the attic space, then roofing material is installed next.

When installing warm attic A vapor barrier material (film, foil, glassine) is mounted on the rafters from the inside using staplers, which prevents moisture from getting from the warm room into the insulation. Thermal insulation material 15-20 cm thick is laid on the vapor barrier.

Advantages of a hipped roof

The construction of a hipped roof allows you to:

• convert attic space into residential attic, that is, increase the usable area of ​​the house;
• increase the level of resistance to external influences in the form of wind and rain, thereby increasing the strength of the roof and extending its service life;
• do appearance home more attractive.

Despite the fact that the planning and installation process requires a lot of time and money, installing a hipped roof with your own hands is possible if you have basic carpenter skills. The household must have: gasoline, Circular Saw or hand, drill, chisels, hammers, level, cord, tape measure. Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully watch the appropriate video content.

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A hip roof is considered one of the most complex structures. Like any other, it has its advantages and disadvantages. To make an informed decision, you need to familiarize yourself with the actual performance characteristics of a hipped roof.

Flaws

As you can see, the advantages of a hipped roof are questionable, but the disadvantages are significant.

Practical advice. Professional builders recommend choosing four pitched roofs only in exceptional cases when other options are unacceptable for various reasons.

Types of hipped roofs

Each country has its own building traditions and style preferences. What types of hip roofs are used by architects?

Table. Types of hipped roofs.

There are no universal recommendations for choosing the type of hipped roof; each developer must make a decision independently or after consultation with architects. But you should always remember that there are other, cheaper and good options rafter systems.

Step-by-step instructions for building a hipped roof

As an example, let’s look at the simplest of the listed types of hip roofs – the classic one. But even this simple design A hip roof is much more complex than any gable roof.

Important. You can start building a hip roof only after the professionals have made all the calculations. The best option– order a house project from the relevant organizations. This will cost much less than restoring the structure after its destruction.

A roof made of four slopes - what is it good for? The numerous operational advantages of this type certainly outweigh the disadvantages. Is the rafter system of a hipped roof as simple as many construction beginners think? You will definitely find out soon! We will describe important nuances and features of the stages of erecting a hip roof in this article.

What do you need to know about hip truss systems?

There are two options for hip roofs: hip and hip. The first type has the shape of a rectangular envelope, consisting of two main trapezoidal slopes and a ridge, and two pediment (side) slopes - triangles:

A hip roof is four identical isosceles triangles connected at one top point (reminiscent of a tent):

Both options provide for installation of both layered and hanging rafters, which are installed using standard technologies.

How to choose the type of rafter system for a 4-pitched roof?

In the absence of a central roof support, the choice is made in favor of a hanging rafter system. If you can find upper and lower supports for each rafter, then you should choose a layered structure. This option is simpler and more accessible for non-professional craftsmen. You just need to remember two main conditions: when rigidly fastening the bottom and top of the stops, a reinforced Mauerlat is needed, since the thrust is transferred to it; with a hinged fastening or a semi-rigid connection (for example, the top is hinged and the bottom is rigid or vice versa), the Mauerlat does not need to be reinforced:

The choice of one type of hip roof should be determined by the shape of the house itself. For square houses, hip rafters are erected, for rectangular ones - hip rafters. Also, you can find complex multi-pitched roofs of a combined type, which contain both hip and hip elements.

Both hip and hipped structures retain the basic functions of a gable roof (for example, the possibility of arranging an attic) and look very aesthetically pleasing:

Why is a hipped roof more popular than a gable roof?

“Why the extra headache and complexity?” you ask: “After all, you can build a simple gable roof much faster and cheaper.” Here the craftsmen emphasize some important points in favor of choosing exactly four slopes for the roof:

1. High wind resistance. The hipped roof has no gables; all its planes are inclined towards the ridge. This design minimizes the impact strong wind and reduces possible destructive consequences to “0”.
2. The most successful load distribution. A multi-pitched roof can withstand the maximum amount of precipitation, since the gentle slopes take part of the main load. Therefore, sagging, deformation and destruction of the rafter system, in this case, have a minimal probability.
3. Availability of choice of any method of roof insulation. Straight gables require a special approach when choosing the type of roof insulation, since they are located vertically and are subject to wind blowing. The gentle slopes of hip and hip systems make it possible to evenly insulate the roof with any available material.

In addition to the listed “advantages”, a roof with four slopes perfectly conserves heat, can be covered with any roofing material and always has a neat appearance.

Construction of a four-slope rafter system

Rafter hipped design consists of the following elements: mauerlat, ridge beam, central and hip rafters, slanted legs, as well as beds, racks, crossbars, struts and other reinforcing parts. Let's look at the most basic elements.

I. Mauerlat

Mauerlat is the most important detail structure, since the entire rafter system rests on it. It represents a powerful wooden beam 100x200, 100x250, 100x100, 150x250, 200x200 cm. The mauerlat is made from solid high-quality wood, mainly coniferous. The rafter system of a hip roof, like any multi-pitched roof, requires thorough fastening of the base beam. The procedure for installing the Mauerlat in this case: formation monolithic foundation at the end of load-bearing walls with the installation of spiers; laying waterproofing; processing and installation of Mauerlat around the perimeter of the entire house; reinforced with anchors and other fastenings for maximum reliability of the base.

The Mauerlat can be laid on the edge of the wall, or in the pocket provided when laying bricks on the inside of the load-bearing walls.

II. Sloping legs

Sloping legs are the four corner rafters that rest on the edges of the ridge and the corners of the mauerlat. They are the longest among all the rafter legs of the system, therefore they must have a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm for maximum rigidity.

III. Ridge beam

Ridge purlin is a horizontal beam that connects all the rafters, the top of the rafter system. The beam must be strengthened with racks and struts. The ridge must be positioned strictly parallel to the plane of the attic floor and perpendicular to the racks.

IV. Rafters

Rafters for a hipped roof are divided into: central (attached to the mauerlat and ridge); main hip ones (attached to the ridge axis and Mauerlat); intermediate and shortened (installed on sloping legs and Mauerlat, connecting the corners of the slopes).

V. Strengthening elements

Additional reinforcing elements include ridge beam posts, crossbars or floor beams, rafter braces, wind beams, etc.

DIY rafter system for a hipped roof

Let's consider step by step process construction of the truss structure. For clarity, we have chosen the most popular option - hip roofing. The hip roof rafter system, a diagram of which step by step, is presented to your attention below:

Step I: Create a Project

To depict your version of a hip roof in a drawing, you need to calculate the height, length, slopes of the slopes and roof area. This is necessary for clear and high-quality implementation of the project and selection of the required quantity of consumables:

Calculations should begin by choosing the angle of the roof slopes. The optimal slope is considered to be an angle of 20-450. The magnitude of the slope must correspond to the climatic characteristics of the region. So, in particularly windy areas, the slope should be kept to a minimum, and for areas where there is frequent and heavy rainfall, the steepest slope angle is necessary. In addition to the weather environment, you also need to consider the roofing material you plan to use. For a soft roof the degree of inclination should be less, for a hard roof it should be greater.

And one more small but important nuance on this issue - it is better to make the slope angle the same for all four slopes. So the load will be distributed evenly, and the structure will be as stable as possible, and the aesthetic appeal will remain “at its best.”

Now, knowing the angle of inclination and the width of the house, we can use simple mathematics to calculate the height of the ridge, the length of the rafter legs, racks and other details of the rafter system. When calculating the length of the rafters, do not forget to take into account the eaves overhang (as a rule, its length is 40-50 cm).

Roof area to purchase the required quantity roofing material is calculated as the sum of the areas of all slopes of the structure.

How to draw a roof drawing correctly?

• Select the scale of the drawing and transfer the dimensions of the house to scale onto a sheet of paper;
• Next, we transfer the selected dimensions of our roof to the diagram: the height of the ridge, its length, the number and size of rafter legs, struts, racks and all the details, in accordance with the calculations made earlier;
• Now you can count everything necessary materials and start searching for them.

Step II: Preparing for work

To erect a roof frame, you will need standard tools and equipment: drills, screwdrivers, jigsaws, hammers, chisels, etc. We already know required amount materials for the rafter system, so we can purchase them. The lumber for the frame must be solid, have no cracks, wormholes, have a light shade, without gray or yellow patina, and smell like fresh wood. Wet wood should not be laid on the roof immediately; it must be dried, treated with an antiseptic solution and dried again. Wood humidity should not exceed 20%.

Step III: Mounting the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is the basic part of the entire rafter system. It transfers thrust loads to the load-bearing walls of the house. Installing a Mauerlat for a hipped roof is no different from similar structures with two or one slope. This process is described in as much detail as possible in our previous articles.

The base beam, the parameters of which are described above, is placed on an armored belt and high-quality waterproofing. If it is necessary to connect the Mauerlat, then the bars are cut into half the section and overlapped using strong fasteners.

Step IV: Laying the floor beams or beams

If there are load-bearing walls inside the house, then it is necessary to install beams on their ends - the basis for the support pillars of the roofing system. If there are no more load-bearing floors in the house, then the attic floor is covered with reinforced beams, on which roof supports are subsequently installed, and then the attic floor pie is laid.

Beams must have a cross-section of at least 100x200 mm. The step between them is 60 cm. You can slightly adjust this figure, depending on the characteristics of your home. The distance between the outer beams and the mauerlat should not be less than 90 cm. This distance is used for installing the half-beams of the eaves overhang (extension). The stems are attached to the two outer beams using strong anchors and reinforced metal corners.

Step V: Installation of support posts, purlins and ridge

Racks are an important part for supporting the structure; they redistribute the weight of the rafter system onto the beams or floor beams. The racks are installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the bed. IN hipped systems the supports are installed under the ridge beam (hip roof) or under the corner rafters (hip roof):

The racks must be securely attached to the base using metal plates and reinforced corners. The purlins are installed as additional support for the racks. In a hip roof, the purlins are rectangular in shape, while for the hips they are ordinary ridge purlins.

After we have made sure that the supports are installed correctly (using a meter and level), we can attach the upper ridge beam. It is mounted on vertical posts and reinforced with reliable metal fastenings(plates, corners, anchors and screws). Now let's take on the corner extensions:

Step VI: Installation of rafters

First, you need to install the side rafters, which rest on the ridge beam and the Mauerlat (or are secured with an offset). To do this, you need to make a template rafter with the appropriate cuts. We apply the rafter leg to the ridge, mark the place of the cut with a pencil, then mark the place of the cut of the rafters for joining with the Mauerlat and make cuts. Attach the rafter to the supports again to make sure that the connection is correct and to correct any imperfections. Now this sample can be used to make all the side rafters. Installation of the rafter legs of the main slopes is carried out according to general rules described in the design of a gable rafter system (see article and video).

Diagonal (corner) rafters are installed next. Their upper edge is installed on the stand and joins the edge of the ridge beam. Before this, measurements are taken and the corresponding cuts of the rafter legs are made. The lower end of the diagonals is fixed in the corners of the Mauerlat:

Since diagonal rafters are longer than all other legs, they require additional support. This function is performed by trusses - support beams that are installed under each diagonal leg, in its lower quarter (this is where the greatest load occurs). Sprengels, like ridge posts, are installed on supporting corner beams located in the plane of the floor beams.

Between the corner ribs the space is filled with auxiliary rafter legs - sprigs. Their lower part rests on the mauerlat, and the upper part rests on the diagonal rafter leg. The step between the frames should be equal to the step between the side rafters (50-150 cm).

Step VII: Sheathing

It remains to complete the final stage of forming the roofing skeleton - installing the sheathing. These are boards or bars 50x50 mm, which are attached to the rafters parallel to the ridge girder and the mauerlat. The pitch of the sheathing boards is 50-60 cm. This is quite enough for installation roofing pie. When is it envisaged soft roof, the sheathing is laid in 2 layers (counter-lattice and sheathing).

Finally, a few videos:

So, we described the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof, its basic principles, and even went a little deeper into some of the nuances. Hip and tent structures are, although not the simplest, but quite feasible options for every novice craftsman. Especially if he has good assistants. We wish you success in your work!

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The hip (hipped) roof gives the house a sophisticated look. Special design roofing allows you to additionally protect the structure itself and its walls from moisture. Therefore, building a roof with four slopes is optimal for regions with high rainfall and strong winds.

Stages of building a hipped roof

The first step in building a roof is to determine the purpose of the roof (covers attic floor, attic, etc.), selection of roofing material (depending on this, the list of materials for construction will be determined), taking into account the atmospheric conditions of the place where the roof will be used (wind, rain, snow).

Choosing a hip roof will give the building greater resistance to rain and make it more durable (the rafter system is more reliable). The main difference between this type of roof and a gable roof is that instead of side gables, it has two triangular roof slopes.

When choosing the angle of inclination of the slopes, you should take into account the level of precipitation and wind characteristics of the area. For low and medium annual precipitation, it is recommended to choose an angle within 4-40 degrees. In case of heavy snowfalls and prolonged rains, the recommended optimal angle The slope of the slopes is within 40-60 degrees.

The roofing material can be: roll roofing, tiles or metal tiles.

Depending on all the above nuances, the thickness and other parameters of the wooden component of the hipped roof will be selected.

The end result of the first stage is the creation of a diagram of the future roof, on the basis of which construction will be carried out.

We will describe further technology on how to make a hipped roof with your own hands.

The second stage is to build the base for the roof. The base is used to evenly distribute the load from the roof to the load-bearing walls. The construction of a hipped roof requires a base that can be built on your own - a wooden mauerlat and beds. Waterproofing is required under the base to extend the service life of the roof. A mauerlat is placed on the hydraulic barrier along the outer contour of the building (the size of this beam varies, either 100x150 mm, or 50x150 mm).

Lezhni - a beam located in the plane of the base of the rafter system at the same distance from the two side mauerlats. It serves as a supporting element for struts and racks, so it is laid on load-bearing partitions (see drawings of a hipped roof). Large roofing structures may include several beds.

The third stage involves the direct installation of the roof frame (base, rafters, sheathing).

Structurally, the construction of a roof in a house with or without existing floors differs (in this case there is no need to lay floor beams on which supports will be installed).

The installation of racks (vertical supports of the roof frame) should be approached with particular care. It is necessary to accurately maintain the installation angle (90 degrees). At the slightest deviation, further deformation of the roof is possible. The installation pitch of the racks is up to two meters.

The structure of a hipped roof of a house consists of four planes (slopes). Two trapezoidal and two triangular. Trapezoidal slopes will be formed by side rafters, hip (triangular) slopes - by slanted (diagonal) rafters.

The rafters at the top of the frame are supported in the ridge beam (purlin). This beam goes on top of the vertical posts (possibly a groove connection with the posts). The distance between the rafters is from 50 to 150 cm (according to the roof plan). The recommended width of the rafter board is 150 mm.

The frame is fastened using corners and steel plates with self-tapping screws (nails). To strengthen the resulting structure, diagonal supports, struts, and wind beams are used. They allow you to increase the permissible load of the system.

Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters. Then a counter-lattice is made (bars that are attached to the rafters on top of the waterproofing). It is needed to create ventilation duct between roofing material, sheathing and waterproofing. This will allow moisture to be removed quickly and effectively. Next, the sheathing is performed - horizontal boards are attached from the bottom to the very top to the counter-lattice (see diagram of the hipped roof structure).

The last step is the installation of roofing material. Installation is carried out depending on the parameters of the material. Example.